A STRAIGHT FORWARD Guide to Kato Unitrack: Tips, Tricks, and Hacks

[@edcrane4438]

I just bought a kato N train set, after I got set I realized I didn’t get a starter set. So now I ordered a starter set of track and power pack, and while I was on the computer I accidentally ordered a kato big boy, ya know these things happen. I’m glad to hear all these good comments about kato cause I just jumped in head first!

[@KartKing4ever]

I'm about to accidentally order a Big Boy, myself😂

[@timdavis9698]

One little trick in track design that will save you a TON of derailing issues through turnouts, especially when pushing truck mounted coupler cars: Always have at least a small straight section at the point end of a turnout before a curve. This will keep those cars that are not precisely to gauge from "picking the points" when coming off the curve and derailing. Also in my experience, try to stay away from #4's for smoother operations, I use #6's exclusively in my layout. Kato unitrack is good stuff and if you take your time in track planning (I used SCARM), it will run flawlessly. BEWARE ballasting turnouts tho, it is easy to lock em up and then a total pain to completely free them again.

[@PhilipKett]

As someone who just started - this video is amazingly helpful

[@Reefdevil]

Kato is by far the best n-scale track I have used. Don't even waste your money with anything else... it just works.

[@BritishRail60062]

Agreed! Would be nice to see Kato and Cavalex Models team up to make some UK train sets and include an N scale Class 60 locomotive and some tanker cars.

[@barneyleadhead2596]

I only started using Unitrack last year after buying a UK outline set complete with M1 Track Pack. After decades of experience with other brands I can really see the benefits of Unitrack and in reality the price isn't that different when you take all the factors such as ballasting and switch motors into consideration. Very useful and informative video 👍

[@choo-choosam]

I use unitrack in both HO and N scale. I bought it first for HO because I lived in a place where I had to do trains on the floor. I recently bought some N scale trains and went with unitrack for N scale because of my experiences with it in HO.

[@3rdTrickGang]

Great Video! I've been using Kato uni track for a few years and I love it. Most of my layout is built with unitrack but I also have some Atlas code 83 switches and track installed. My favorite part is how easy it is to break down and take apart if I have to. I'm still waiting to have a permanent layout as I move around every couple years.

[@rodericknagashima]

I started out with Kato Unitrack because it came with an old Kato set I purchased. When I discovered Tomix track and the wide variety of turnouts they have available, I made the switch to Tomix. Now I have a large selection of turnouts, but the other awesome addition it that they have single track elevated curves. I am also waiting for the arrival of the new curve truss bridge that it half the standard truss bridge in length, for a 420mm length over the standard truss of 280mm

[@johnfleming9909]

One thing I would definitely recommend when using the KATO crossovers, especially if you are building a T-Trak module using a crossover or where there are or potentially more than one crossover on the layout, is installing jumper wires on the two inner rails to feed power around the crossover. We have found that there will be dead spots between crossovers and power will need to be fed into the area. Simply running a wire from one side of the crossover to the other on the inner tracks solves this issue. On a T-Trak module, this will allow the module to function electrically as if the crossover wasn't there, simplifying the wiring of the layout. Also, KATO Unitrak can connect to Atlas and PECO track simply by taking the Unitrak joiner off and attaching the tracks with standard joiners. The cork roadbed will bring the track up to the proper height to meet the KATO track. This allows flexibility where the 62mm long straight conversion track may be incompatible with the space where the conversion has to occur.

[@thomasdecker7631]

Very informative. I don't use Kato Unitrack myself, but it's easy to understand why so many people like it. I had no idea there were so many different items available.

[@atshinkansen7439]

I use Kato Unitrack because of its Japanese origins, as I model Japanese railways (hence the metric track geometry, and some of the non-US prototype features, such as the sign posts that come with the bumpers, as well as the Shinkansen viaducts and slab track sections). Kato also has several station and yard structures-again, of Japanese origin -that match Unitrack’s geometry. In recent years, Kato has started to introduce US-specific variants of some of these products, such as grade crossings and Unitram sections. Kato also has a turntable that is hands down the best tabletop turntable out there!

[@kentbarnes1955]

In researching what to use for my (first) N-scale setup I chose Kato. I did have Bachman in small set I bought years ago (and would take down/set up as needed when the grandkids came)...and the Kato Unitrack is much much better. This was an excellent video to add to my "linked" Model Railroading collection. Thanks Jimmy.

[@KartKing4ever]

Thanks to these bitwise I just picked up a starter set, and then got the V5 inner oval, V1 passing siding, and the V3 yard switching set. I'm hoping it's in before the holidays when I have some time off. Looking forward to getting back in to my childhood hobby.

[@bluetopguitar1104]

This is probably the most useful video you've ever made for those of us that use Kato track. Thank you. After making my first layout with atlas track , I switched to Kato. I will never go back to atlas.

[@CrewsRail]

yeah I love the easy use of Unitrack, for the little bit of N-scale that I do, mainly i'm in HO with either handlaid or flex track, but I always check at Rocky Mountain Train supply for used unitrack, most of what I have was used and it works just fine. in the process of trying to figure out some T-track modules to cut on the laser cutter to make an around the room shelf layout.

[@13squier]

This was a great overview! Want to add there are a few special pieces that are only available in the variation sets. V12 Double Track Viaduct set offers (4) 22.5 degree superelevated curved viaduct sections, and (2) 7-5/16" incline plates. And V15 Double Track For Station is the only way to get 124mm concrete single track straight pieces, it contains (4) of them.

[@davidf9630]

Hey Jimmy, great video. I wish you had released this video about three months ago and it would’ve made my life a lot easier. But one of the hacks that I have learned was making Cotto track a little flexible. I wouldn’t recommend this to everybody, but what I do is, use a hacksaw or small saw to cut the roadbed up to the rails from underneath. And what that does is gives me a little bit of flexibility in the track. So if I have those two sections that don’t meet up perfectly I make a few cuts in the bottom of the track and it allows me to, adjust for my mistakes. One thing though is when you do this, you make the unit joiners a little weaker because they are not being held on by a solid piece of track anymore, but that’s my hack.

[@KatoUSAinc]

EXCELLENT!!

[@Steve_Larson]

Worth mentioning, Atlas has a N scale Kato "equivalent" called True Track Code 65. I have lots of both and the Kato seems a little more sturdy, but the Atlas looks better (in my opinion anyway). The biggest problem with the Atlas True Track is that the selection is worse than Kato, with only 2 types of turnouts... 12.5" radius (really sharp) and #5 (much better). I still managed to put together a pretty cool layout using True Track but had to get creative. For broad curves I used the #5 turnout reverse curves, and some of the turnouts had to be trimmed to get them to fit together in the configuration I wanted. My main layout uses Atlas C55 (AWESOME) but it's more work and I wanted to try something new.

[@CardScientist]

I run HO Kato unitrack and it runs beautifully. Kato Unitrack on a foam base and I have virtually no derailment issues and it runs smoother than even my club layout, which is flex track on cork on plywood. I definitely plan to stick with Kato unitrack when I get a more permanent layout. My only gripe with the HO track is that I don't think the straight sections are nicely quartered like the N scale track is (they might, and I just have some weird, jank sections) and that makes it difficult to design a run through yard ladder

[@twiggs24]

They are by far the best. I have a layout in my apartment of just unitrack. I cant build anything permanent so the track is perfect.

[@conrailhbgline]

For my feeders, I don't solder the wire in the unijoiner, I just put the wire in there with a little crip around it and then put the joiner back into the plastic unijoiner housing. It has worked with no issues.

[@BritishRail60062]

I love the Kato unitrack system and I have used both the N and the HO scale track systems. I highly recommend them. As long as you allow a space between the points and the curved track. That makes running way more reliable. I would like to see Kato and Cavalex Models make an N scale UK freight train set with a Class 60 Diesel Locomotive and 5 tanker cars included. Would be nice to see Kato and Cavalex Models make a joint venture in N scale UK train sets.

[@bcfol440]

The automatic signal light will work on DCC if you open the back and remove one of the two little metal bars (the one not one the rail that has the sensor.

[@andrewlaverghetta715]

@@bcfol440 can you clarify which one? I think you might have typed a couple words twice.

[@bcfol440]

Sorry about that. When you open the bottom of the automatic signal there two metal bars/springs that sit in the underside of the track and touch/connect to a couple spots on the board. Remove the one on the side that the light is located. It’s been a while since I did this, but it worked on the six automatic signals I have and I have not had any issues with them. The lights do not draw power from the track, so the metal bars/springs just carry the current for the sensor as the train runs past. Also, all the cars need metal wheels for it to stay red while the entire train passes. If the cars have plastic wheels, the metal wheels on the loco will activate it, but the timer to change to yellow and back to green will start as soon as the loco passes.

[@NitroStarGT]

I dont think ive had to hack one piece of my Kato Unitrack and i have built a pretty nice operating and rail fanning layout. My first N Scale track to use and it works extremely well! Awesome overview video!😊 God bless

[@newfenrisrailroad621]

Hey great video Jimmy. I use both kato and peco flex track in my old layout on my channel and iam currently working on a new version of my layout at this time. One other trick you can do is cut down unitrack. Didn’t you have a video on that too.

[@danshobbies13]

I just got some N scale Kato track. I fell in love with it. So now I’m getting HO track. I like that every connection can be a feeder wire connection. I just want them to make DCC turnouts. I have a Bachmann DCC turnout and it’s wireless. I like that.

[@jamesgoularte8460]

I have cut a straight track to the length I need with jeweler saw and miter box to length and used regular rail jointers to connect it you can make any lengths

[@bobvanatta8951]

make 2 cuts in the middle then remove the section not needed push the 2 sections together and cut the rail.

[@MatthewKearns-c9w]

Don't quote me on this, but I'm pretty sure the Kato unijoiner remover tool can also serve as a basic clearance gauge for tunnels, scenery, etc.

[@Kermondale]

Thank you

[@GreatNW]

So on my recent layout I debated between HO Kato uni track and ez track, I actually bought a bunch of unitrack. I decided on ez track, despite liking the code 83 unitrack, because I did not like the road bed color. Unfortunately Kato unitrack can't be rebalasted without repainting the entire road bed. Another issue I had with Kato was that they didn't offer any switches with optional powered frogs, I am not a fan of using plastic frogs or plastic anything on my track. Overall i think the next time I do a layout I am just going do standard track and my own roadbed.

[@ThomasFredenberg]

Hi Jimmy! Fantastic video and great information!! Thank you! I have one completed T-Trak module (Klawndyke's) with Unitrak and I use Unitrak for my N-Scale Christmas trains display. I use it for 2 or 3 loops on a tabletop. My biggest issue with Unitrak vs Flex Track and Cork is Unitrak is very time consuming to weather. Weathering track on a large layout could prove to be very discouraging due to the tedious work. I am designing a shelf switching layout using all Klawndyke's frames. I am planning on using Atlas flex track and Peco turnouts.

[@robertmyers5269]

A couple of comments and corrections on the turnout section. The turnouts are not "#4" and "#6", they are curved frog designed to fit the Kato track spacing modulus. The shorts are close to #4, but curved frog. The longs are really closer to #7, but again curved frog. A pair of shorts as a crossover, come to 33mm spacing, longs to 49.5mm. The double crossover uses the mechanisms from the long turnouts, not the shorts.

[@TheNorthwestWind]

You are the Kato Daddy

[@jawharp1992]

Thanks. I'll try to remember that for every video he makes now lol

[@TheNorthwestWind]

@@jawharp1992 do it

[@sams2960]

QUESTION: How do you go about freeing up Kato turnouts that have been accidentally touched with scenery/ballast glue where they work with manual flipping but not using the switch motor? I even used painters tape over them too when doing the scenery/glue process. I really dont' want to have to chip out the turnout if that's at all possible as the scenery glue really has the track glued down good now.

[@brookingsbeachcomber]

I wish they made bridges for HO like they do for N

[@zenontrainstrucks9433]

Awesome video! I have a question for you, is there a simple way to make Kato Unitrack have DCC? I am looking for a simple way like a controller where I can just plug it in, and it works. Thank you and keep up the great videos!

[@lthdean]

A very informative and instructional video. Thanks and I love my Kato track. HOWEVER, I have found my blue 22-014 Kato transformer to be underpowered to run Broadway Limited engines on my layout. (My Kato engines are fine) I want to buy another transformer with more voltage (power) but HOW then do I connect/attach the transformer with the plastic plug leads that come from the Kato track ?? Do you have an instructional video on this AND are their others who are having a similar problem.?? I run straight DC with 3 separate lines for specific trains with all power coming from 3 separate and independent blue Kato transformers. Help please !!

[@ThomasOrlando-ib9bd]

Jimmy I have enjoyed your videos tremendously. I'm a newly retired 66 year old and ready to build a model railroad layout. Question is what scale..N or HO. Honestly love Kato track in N scale. I have two questions 1) am I too old for N scale?? I'm in good health and love to tinker. 2) Do N scale trains run so smoothly all the time once track work is complete. I am amazed at how your layout runs. I have adequate basement space for either scale. ... But n scale allows for more scenery building by saving time with track installation. Any advice you could share would be greatly appreciated Thanks

[@Closet_Jedi]

Kato makes a great turntable for their Unitrack system. It's indexed and doesn't require a hole for the turntable pit. The downside is it's a bit too short for some of the larger American locos.

[@dckmusic]

While Unitrack in N scale has limitations just because it has a limited number of pieces, it's design is superior to any other track on roadbed and it looks better as well. Kato, in typical fashion, has engineered Unitrack for great flexibility and is so easy to use. I weather all my Unitrack and ballast it and it looks as good as any regular track, even though it is code 80. I will likely only use Unitrack from now on just because it is so easy to put together and is essentially bulletproof.

[@marshalblue3259]

Currently model in ho scale but I have thought about using Kato unitrack for hon3

[@robvorbroker900]

What are options for Kato compact n scale track?

[@timhammell394]

Just started watching. What's the smallest space you could fit an Nscale train layout in, please? Thanks.

[@Rprusia]

Just watched a video of a train show that had a table with a row of displays of layouts in briefcases. The large one was beautiful, it was in a guitar case. Folks extended the scenery into the top of the briefcase.

[@andrewlaverghetta715]

The unitrack does bug me. I was making a Ttrak module a couple months ago and finding exactly what I needed to make a large S curve between two double modules, AND have a turnout to bridge the gap essentially (for a passenger depot) was exceptionally difficult. I ended up having to get a certain size, which they apparently didn’t sell by itself, so searching for the number I see in Anyrail will not give any results without searching and discovering that you can only buy that as a pack with two different lengths. It seems like it works really well and it’s not as frustrating if you already have a big collection, similar to my son’s Brio. I definitely like being able to cut and bend flex track to whatever I need, largely. It is really handy to have the exacting measurements for Ttrak though, overall.

[@mapit07]

Jimmy, I need to add a lift-out section to my Kato N scale layout, can you provide any advice, especially regarding the connection?

[@OldcampRanch]

Oh wow super 😉

[@midsomerrailwaynscale]

Hi Jimmy 5 years ago i started using Kato I found with old 1970 locos and stock they would derail on straight track on Peco any code. Yet on kato they just ran no problems , But I have had issue with Kato turnouts and running Graham Farish or Dapol , they often derail or just stop . I have remove most turnouts and only have a couple at the moment .that has not changed my opinion . I still Love Kato I have been using DCC++EX since version 2 I have about 12 meters of DCC Track and the other line is dc Or DCC++EX switchable Regards Greg

[@jdenm8]

I would dispute calling the Kato power connector the same as the Tamiya one. The square pin on the Kato connector is bevelled off; Kato Male connectors will fit Tamiya Female no issue, but the other way around generally won't work without filing down the corners of the square plug on the Male Tamiya connector. There is also a new type of Unitrack, though only since May and I think only in Japan; their new HOe/OO-9/HOn30 track. N Gauge but HO Scale; for modelling railways that use 2 foot gauge, or near it. It's only available in 62mm and 124mm lengths and 183mm radius curves at the moment, though it does fit the N Gauge stuff.

[@TrainKid2024]

Do you have any tips about the banked turns? My 3 of my Kato p-42s derail when going down the embankment. They other ones work great. It seems to be the newer ones that have the issue.

[@WilliamTucker-m5m]

How many feet of track can I run before a booster is needed?

[@tyhik9338]

How do I wire DCC with Kato unitracks in ho scale?

[@jimmccorison]

Great summary. Thank you. I've been considering using Kato as my introduction to N-Gauge. One of the downsides of Kato and the other preinstalled roadbed products is rail crossings. The height of the rails is roughly a meter in scale. Invariably, this leads to people making road crossings that look like a Dukes of Hazzard car jump scene. Do you have suggestions on the best way to address this problem?

[@atshinkansen7439]

The best solution I can think of is to elevate the road, and surround ground to the height of the grade crossing. The ramps are removeable, so it’s not entirely necessary to use them. Elevating everything will also by default allow for drainage ditches on either side of the track.

[@jimmccorison]

@@atshinkansen7439 That's a good suggestion. I like that it resolves the drainage ditches that are so often overlooked.

[@WilliamTucker-m5m]

Jimmy, hoe many of track can I run before adding a booster?

[@andrewlaverghetta715]

@@WilliamTucker-m5m it’s more how many engines you want to run. You should already have multiple feeder wires of your layout is larger than just a small loop. Like up to table size and larger.

[@GnatTheGnome]

I kinda regret spending so much on Atlas track before switching to Kato.

[@jontaylor6068]

You forgot the unitrack that extends. I had #4 switches i switched over to #6's

[@pawelkrupowicz2539]

For me the biggest flaw of the Unitrack system is the lack of curved turnouts... 😕 It limits the flexibility of the system, particularly for small layouts.

[@002tar]

Anyone else have problems with Kato crossovers? I have a non powered one and when the loco goes thru it the locomotive dies for just a second(at slow speeds) I have tried everything and it still does it- I have a broadway locomotive and am wondering if it is too long for the crossover and is causing a short? It is N scale and DCC I have a NCE Powercab controller and the red light never shuts off so I am thinking it isn’t a short?

[@chrisridd9423]

The unitrack geometry looks well designed, especially using those various impressive double track pieces. I’d like to see their flex track. I’ve seen some unitrack on train show layouts and the high ballast is quite distracting. You can disguise it to an extent but it really doesn’t look quite right and not very prototypical. So I have a different view on your “best looking” claim. You should take a look at 0:02 Fleischmann’s preballasted N scale track. Same rail code but the ballast is much shallower and so it looks much less toy like. They even have flex track with (astonishingly) flexible ballast.

[@brodrick3164]

Jimmy you can buy a tool that allows you to remove the wires from the connectors. I think a small screwdriver will do the job as well. Drilling oversized holes is not necessary. Please don’t take my word for it do a little research before trying a screwdriver or building your next layout.

[@bobvanatta8951]

do you have a link for the tool?

[@brodrick3164]

Josh Murrah for the wiring and I believe using a screwdriver.

[@mattguey-lee4845]

Correction in order: The Kato double crossover is a #6 switch. You can tell by the frog used.

[@thomascanady1967]

Hey Jimmy. I know you are getting a lot of flack about commercials. One helpful hint is not to put in the thumbnail "No Commercials" and then have commercials. So please do what you're saying. False advertisement when you put that in your thumbnail.

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

Oops! I accidentally uploaded the patreon thumbnail!

[@massmike11]

I know people like the integrated track bed track but I really think it looks poor and unscale like.

[@larrybaughman618]

🤠👍🚂

[@TheNorthwestWind]

STAY AWAY, FAR AWAY FROM #4 TURNOUTS!!!!

[@Rodfather72]

How come?

[@TheNorthwestWind]

@@Rodfather72 derailment nightmare. Hundreds of p eople in Facebook groups told me for years "KATO KATO THE BEST OH YA NO COMPARISON ETC". I went and bought an entire layout's worth and set it up for the first time, and had dozens of derailments on the #4's in the first hour. I was livid. I went to these Facebook groups to inquire and complain and all these same people said "Oh ya, stay away from the #4, they are garbage"........effin ridiculous

[@darwinatgc]

Kato has no options for elevating the track. You have to buy all new special track.. less options and twice as expensive. I wish i knew this before i chose kato.. i would have gone woth bachman.

[@southernguy81]

I've learned that Kato unitrack does not add up math wise regardless

[@andrewlaverghetta715]

@@southernguy81 I’d be curious to hear more about your reasoning. It’s pretty mathematical and a lot of people seem to have success. I find it a little fiddly to get what you actually need, especially with Ttrak modules, but it ends up working. Heck, the Ttrak standard is evidence that it works very well.