DMM DYN4 Servo Spindle Retrofit: Will It Work?

[@PeteRondeau]

As you'll see in this video, my selection of drill bits is in sorry shape. Looking for recommendations on what to replace them with.

[@alexwbakker]

Drill America brand. Nice video, BTW.

[@kylegoldston]

I got the HF full cobalt set on clearance/return, eventually. The index was damaged garbage, so I spent a nearly equal amount for a quality index and am very happy with the deal.

[@mikenewman4078]

I'm years and years late into this video but I still see value in it. Quality drill bits, Sutton, expensive but exceptionally good. They have also own P & N my previous go to brand. Cheap bits aren't worth the frustration.

[@cornpop7805]

I'm a new sub and I really appreciate your style, specifically that you give details when needed and FF through the mundane. I use cobalt (material, not brand) drill bits because they are still flexible enough to avoid shattering, but are hard enough to tackle harder materials. They will also handle higher temperatures (due to friction) than HSS. I've purchased 29pcs sets that cost over $700 (for work), but I personally own the Harbor Freight 115pcs set ($115) and the 29pcs set ($65) I cannot say that they are inferior to the expensive sets I've used. I highly recommend them.

[@PeteRondeau]

I appreciate the feedback!

[@mortaldrumming]

That explosion effect got me for a second. Hahaha. Nice video, man. I like the fact that you use endscreens to the side properly, while the video is clean in the opposite side.

[@PeteRondeau]

I'm glad you enjoyed it! I try to do something fun in them to help liven up what might otherwise be very dry content. Thanks for watching

[@roylucas1027]

Norseman drill bits are top notch. Expensive, but worth it.

[@PeteRondeau]

Thanks for the suggestion!

[@buildmotion1426]

Great electrical layout! Very clean and neat.

[@PeteRondeau]

Thank you!

[@cornpop7805]

I can appreciate your attention to detail in regard to your panel layout. There are numerous ways to provide all the necessary ground connections, but I always take all my grounds to one common point. Not just that everything is common to ground, but literally one common point. The back-plane, the box, the incoming power, transformers, every conduit, every board, every motor (unless it has a specific ground terminal on the amp). This ground bar is generally used for Square D breaker panels, but I often use the PK12GTA in my automation panels as well. Approx $10.

[@PeteRondeau]

I agree with you on the common star ground. It never occurred to me to use a ground bar though. That actually is a really clever idea and solves the problem of overloading terminal blocks with too many wires. Nice!

[@cornpop7805]

@@PeteRondeau I used to be an electrician and early on, I started using ground bars in junction boxes and wiring troughs. I hated using large blue wire nuts because they take up so much room, they aren't reliable, and they're ugly. When I started doing more automation projects, I just kept using them. Some japanese customers require the use of ring terminals and in that case, I'll use a different kind of ground bar. Rarely and only if required, I'll use modular terminals, but I've come across too many where the binding terminals are loose, to trust them.

[@neffk]

Consider using ferrels in your future projects. Nice work on the electrics, BTW.

[@unpopular_mechanics]

Probably late to comment but chicago-latrobe bits are good. I also suggest looking into crimp on wire ferrules for stranded wire. It is a much better way to deal with screw down terminals for straight wire, no loose strands, much neater. Iwiss makes an inexpensive 6 sided crimper that is good but there are more expensive ones as well.

[@PeteRondeau]

Thanks for the input on the drill bits. You've got me curious where I didn't use ferrules in this video. I gotta go back and watch to see if I was just being lazy when I made this video or what. LOL! I pretty much always have a link in my video description for the Iwiss crimpers. My most recent video they show up around the 45 second mark. Thanks for watching!

[@arjundas708]

Nicely explained sir, thank you

[@PeteRondeau]

I'm glad you received some value from it. Thanks for watching!

[@jaseng7697]

Just an FYI, DMM Tech makes a 1Kw with the Nema34 frame which isn't published on their website as it's special order. But they recently made a batch order of 20, so they should have some in stock. The model is 86H-DHT-A6MK1 and it's an awesome spindle motor for small mills. I should have a vid up on my channel soon where I swapped from the 86M-DHT 750w to the 1Kw version. Tons more low end torque, and running it at 240v I get 5k RPM along with a 1 to 2 ratio getting 10K RPM on the spindle. I have the spec sheet and CAD if you are interested. FYI, I have a post with that info on the Acorn Facebook group too. You can get 15% off mentioned my screen name or the Taig FB group. Sorry, not meaning this to be an add, as I get nothing here, just trying to pass on good info to other DIY CNC folks like myself.

[@PeteRondeau]

Happy to have you share the info! I am aware of the 1kw option- I actually think it was probably your post on the Acorn group where I first heard about this motor. I couldn’t remember which group it was in when I recorded this. Thanks for the part number. I’ve seen your video of the 750 running. It will be interesting to compare it to the 1kw. Thanks for stopping by!

[@darrellwertz6380]

Hi Pete can you point me in the direction to a start for the Acorn to DYN4 spindle control wiring?

[@PeteRondeau]

DMM sent me a schematic that shows the connection but it has to be transposed a little bit. Their drawing (at the time, maybe they’ve updated it by now) was created for a acorn without the relay boards. So you wire the control signals to the relays rather than the solid state outposts shown in the schematic, and then you have add the supply wires to the common side of the relay

[@darrellwertz6380]

@@PeteRondeau Thank you for your reply!. I've contacted DMM regarding the wiring of the Dyn4 to Acorn. I'll let you know if I learn anything. I will also check the forums on the Centroid boards.

[@minnesotaice3988]

Hi, I was wondering if yours had a non standard BT30 pull studs. I got one of these mills already retrofitted with servos and a bunch of tooling. However the pull studs appear to be longer than standard BT30 45degree pull studs. If so do you know what studs they use if not which studs does yours use?

[@PeteRondeau]

I'm going to have to dig through my notes. They are different but they are available, I just don't remember from where. in the meantime you might try looking at the Dyna Mechatronics section on the CNC Zone forums. it has been discussed in the past over there.

[@mactec54]

What did you setup in Acorn for the Dyn4 step / Dir or 0-10v and do you have a video showing this setup

[@PeteRondeau]

I have it setup for analog control, using the 0-10v output from the Acorn for speed, then a digital output to control the motor direction.

[@watahyahknow]

curious to see how the motor will work , from wat i seen sofar these things have great torque at low rpm and a build in encoder(might be dificult if it isnt mounted on the spindle though) , jsut wondering how they will hold up to constand high rpm use , both in heat and bearing life seen 750 watt 220 volt AC servos on aliexpress for not a lot of money max rpm was 3000 though , might change the belt drive ratio around so the spindle speed increases was planning a 3 phase electric motor but like you said those things are heavy and dont package well on the machine

[@PeteRondeau]

I am looking forward to putting this through it’s paces and see what it does

[@jumar360]

What course did you take?

[@Pulaksa]

Nice vid. Made me subscribe 😄

[@PeteRondeau]

Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for coming along for the journey!

[@cornpop7805]

I can appreciate what you are doing and why. But, as you first started enumerating your requirements, one of them was rigid tapping. Regardless what motor you use, you can't do rigid tapping with a V-belt. They slip even as they run unloaded, even more so when loaded. I've yet to see an off the shelf triple stack timing belt pulley arrangement, but I've designed and built them, by modifying off the shelf single pulleys. If you're really handy, you can machine your own pulleys, but for a triple stack, you'd obviously need 6 pulleys. I usually purchased and modified pulleys from McMaster Carr. Part # 1326N51 should get you to the right page.

[@PeteRondeau]

Ahhh. I should have elaborated on that part. The rigid taping desire is an end goal. I want to be sure in selecting the electronics that I can do it, when I get to that point I will be swapping out the V belt for a timing belt. I also don’t really anticipate needing the mid range of the stack so I’m thinking that two sizes will work- but that will be a project for another day. Thanks for the link!

[@MobilehydWI]

Norseman / Viking such as part # 87750 and 87830. 12 Pack through Sussex tool is about $12 and $20 +-

[@PeteRondeau]

Thanks for the info!

[@Ragnar.Lothbrok.3.14]

At the 4 minute mark, you start telling us what the circuit boards do. How do you find out what the pannels do?

[@PeteRondeau]

In this particular case it was a combination of deduction and stumbling across the DM2800 manual online. I believe it is somewhere on the CNCzone forums, or at least it was. Thanks for watching!

[@jeroenkwaak6222]

drill bitts dormer brand are de best

[@PeteRondeau]

Thanks for the info!

[@funfordturbo]

So you just decided the rpm wasn't that important? Those motors are 3k max right?

[@PeteRondeau]

No, not at all. That motor preserves the 5k rpm capability of its 750watt brother

[@funfordturbo]

@@PeteRondeau are you acheaving that through pully system. When I look at DMM website it says its a 3k motor.

[@PeteRondeau]

@@funfordturbo The motor's rated speed is 3000 RPM but the Max speed is 5000 and it is capable of running that way. Any loss of torque should not be an issue for the small cutters I intend on using at the higher speeds.

[@funfordturbo]

@@PeteRondeau Nice and thanks for the video, I just acquired a 1007 it already has a servo already installed for the spindle, the machine is amazing shape but I'm anticipating the nightmare of proprietary components. Looking into the future incase I need to update the system. Have not powered the machine yet so have no idea of it condition.

[@PeteRondeau]

@@funfordturbo Is that the 1007 I saw on cnc zone that is missing the tool changer?

[@mactec54]

For Drills North Bay Cutting Tools they are on Ebay or you can buy direct they sell the best drills money can buy don't buy jobber drills unless you need long drills, buy screw machine or stub drills

[@PeteRondeau]

Do they manufacturer their own line of drills or are they resellers for other brands? Yes, I'm a big fan of screw machine size drills. Wish someone sold a reasonably priced drill index filled with stubby drill bits. I mean, its less metal, should be cheaper than a set of jobber length! LOL

[@mactec54]

@@PeteRondeau They are Hsco Swiss made Drills , if you want a quality drill there are none better short drills last longer and don't flex and these will drill a near perfect hole size they have them coated or non coated