YS FZ63 First Run

My first run of this swap meet find. I run two different props Master Airscrew 12x6 and an APC 11x8. OS F plug, and a strange fuel mixture 22% nitro, 18% oil.
Links to review article:
sceptreflight.com/Model%20Eng...
Link to Engine Manuals:
drive.google.com/drive/folder...
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[@weofnjieofing]

Could be congealed castor oil in the regulator which the new fuel is dissolving. I would remove the regulator screw and flush out any debris in and around it by spraying fuel through it via fuel inlet. Then replace and set to factory setting which is flush with the regulator body. The engine cut out is a fuel rich issue because it only happened when the glow driver was disconnected. I’d say it’s too rich on both low and high speed needle settings and perhaps that’s due to the regulator not set correctly or was tampered with by previous owner. Clean regulator, set to factory settings and try again.

[@dmrcflyr2]

Yes I mention the fuel regulator being the source of concern several times in this video.

[@ronaldwitt2533]

Great run

[@dmrcflyr2]

Look for the KZbin short I made on this engine. It is much better. For some reason I cannot post a link to that here.

[@harveynewman4333]

little power house. good score

[@slothzombi307]

I just obtained a used YS 91 and am trying to figure out how the plumbing and all works, so this is helpful,

[@luisgarza2036]

The pressure comes from the cranckase via an orifice that pulses every 2 revolutions using the pressure generated when by piston moves down and the rotary disc closes the port, with every pulse of pressure the diaphgram of the regulator opens the presurized fuel and allows to flow by pulses to carburetor, this is a mechanical fuel injection, the old oil in the cranckase between rear and front bearings pass with the air used to pressurize the tank, if there is old oil you should see that in the pressure line, if it's on the regulator to carb line, maybe you have old fuel residue inside regulator, that causes fuel flow issues, I'm not an expert but i used to service others fellows engines, specially YS that not so many people take the time to read the manual to adjust correctly.

[@JRSylphide90]

Nice video, as always! It should happily run an APC 13x6 prop. The gue in the pressure line is just old fuel from the crank case. And the top end sounded way ritch. Propably up to a whole turn. After setting the high speed needle, set the low speed. And this adjusts the air, not the fuel. Clockwise is richer. Easy to get wrong 😅

[@13dubois]

How will you plumb this for refueling on airplane? Would be nice to use the Dubrois Kwik fueling valve and probe somehow.

[@dmrcflyr2]

Use T fittings in each line to the tank

[@michaeljohnston406]

hey David, I don't know if you can hear it but there is a weird hum in your audio feed for this video!

[@dmrcflyr2]

Yes I am aware. My external microphone was generating this.

[@naviitub2879]

It's need a break in, slowly.

[@dmrcflyr2]

Why? It is a used engine, and it will never be installed on an airplane.

[@naviitub2879]

@@dmrcflyr2 Ok.