Do I have to have a junction box to splice wires?

[@bspencersf]

You are a brave man working on that vanity with the sink pop up wide-open LOL. I learned a long time ago when working near a sink to close or cover the drain cause it is guaranteed when you drop one of those screws it’s gonna bounce into the sink and disappear down into the P-trap

[@RadioRich100]

Hes also a risk taker for using a no contact voltage tester to determine if the circuit is hot.

[@JohnThomas-lq5qp]

@@RadioRich100 Most people including most of the mom electricians in our large maintenance shop know how to properly yes one. Only safe way is to test on a know live circuit to verify that it works then test the circuit that will be worked on then retest it on a know. circuit. Even when I did all that I would take the suppository denerhised wire and short it to ground. Rather have a burn mark on a box then a dead electrician.

[@RadioRich100]

@@JohnThomas-lq5qp Do you ever read your messages before you post them? Lol

[@melissao8913]

Hahaha! My first thought too was about the open drain!!

[@ronnym1977]

I noticed the open drain plug too, lol!

[@failtoysrules]

Thanks for making informative videos free and publicly available, you're doing a great service to society.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thank YOU for watching ... and the extra thanks!😊😊

[@tomwadsworth5768]

A customer supplied me with some these several years ago. After reading all instructions and specs twice, i installed them. I was pleased with the robust strain relief and I do agree that the connections are a bit sketchy. Toggle clamps like the Wago 221 would have made me feel better.

[@nothankyou5524]

There sketchy because you must be sketchy. Don't make stuff up to try to appear smart. Nobody with any knowledge knows smart is not in your area of expertolise.

[@802Garage]

@@nothankyou5524 What a massive overreaction.

[@stevenestrada9924]

I've been an electrician for 20 years. They use these to splice the wires on double wide manufacturer homes. I fix about 50 of these a year. The connection method is horrible, and will cause a fire if not caught at first sign of an issue. PLEASE DO NOT USE THESE, and if you do, PLEASE LEAVE ACCESSIBLE.

[@cryengine_x]

weird how all of you have the same story going around commenting on all videos about this...dozens of different commenters all with the exact same scare story about the mobile homes what are the odds...almost like electricians are a big racket!

[@davyc444]

@@cryengine_x I'm not an electrician and Ive never used or seen one of these before today. However I do agree with the above commenter and here's why; The contact being made with the conductor is extremely low. Look at the bite mark in the insulation when he crimps the 14 gauge wires into it. The amount of contact is exceptionally low and you have a total of 4 of those weak connections in a single circuit using one of these. Using 12 guage wire like in the actual ceiling install in the second part will likely give a significantly better connection however, now instead of having to support a 15 amp circuit, you're now asking for it to handle 20 amperes. If even one of those connections is weak it's a problem but remember, there's four. There's too many potential points of failure to be worth it. Now if they made something similar to this but with a beefier strain relief and a connector that made more contact that actually involved stripping the wire back like a wago connector I'd be in and say "cool, use it if you want". If you absolutely HAVE to use this device for whatever reason, please, please, PLEASE use it in combination with a combination AFCI breaker so if the connection ever breaks down and it starts arcing, it'll hopefully trip the breaker at least. It would also be best if this were only used on lighting circuits only that will never see more than 5-6 amps pulled through them. Running 2500w through this thing is just asking for trouble

[@stevenestrada9924]

@@cryengine_x Burn your house down, that's your choice. But if I see a bunch of PROFESSIONALS all saying the same thing. I would listen. Some of us take pride in our work and will do whatever it takes to make sure it's done right. Not the half ass lazy handyman way.

[@gopooalreadyplease5842]

My bro and his wife had their double wide burn down and this was determined to be the cause. I am not an electrician and dont want to be one. If someone wants to use them, don’t complain if your house burns down

[@cryengine_x]

@@gopooalreadyplease5842 ok i wont. my dads cousins brother has over 50 of these in his walls and they all perform flawlessly.

[@markmiller4633]

Just a suggestion - when using your bathroom vanity as a workspace, close the stoppers on the drains. There is a reason I know this.

[@T1Oracle]

You can also remove the catch, so not the end of the world.

[@stephenwhite1607]

Keep the toilet seat covered too. A new bar of soap can just slip off and go in during a flush. Weeks later it still refuses to dissolve, plunge, or snake away. Only water passes.

[@kevinhibbard320]

Haha yup! First step in bathroom work, block off the drain.

[@nothankyou5524]

Many of us know this because many of us have been taught this. Unfortunately, we are usually self taught. Good point you have made. It should never have to be made, but it has to be made. Thank you. You didn't have to bother, but you've just proven yourself to be a "stand up person". In my house, it's my wonderful, loving, and caring SO, thank god for her!! (Shameless plug, I know!)

[@KevinWta]

As long as you're going to patch the hole where the junction box was, you might as well install a new cable with just a little more patching.

[@davebrown6552]

not so easy if the wire has been stapled beside the box and any floor transition

[@KevinWta]

​@@davebrown6552 Leave the old Wire there and run a new one next to it.

[@davebrown6552]

@@KevinWta here is my problem with that. assuming you can find a way to chase the new wire, if it not going to be stapled outside the box and between floors then it would not be to code, if it considered safe anyway then the staples required by code are unnecessary. and leaving them out could have enabled using the old wire to pull the new. and it leaves all the old crap behind. I once lived in an old Victorian house in the uk that had been converted to flats and then back again it had 147 fuses (mostly no longer connected with some that dated back over a century), fabric wrapped wires (definitely no longer connected. and an electric servant call system The electrician that rewired the house for us replaced all the crap with two 8 fuse consumer units with some spaces left.

[@KevinWta]

@@davebrown6552 Staples are only required for new work. As long as the sheetrock is up you can fish wire in the wall without putting staples,

[@davebrown6552]

@@KevinWta I know, it is just the stupidity of them that annoys me. I understand the idea of keeping wire out of the way of the sheet rock installation but making them out of steel instead of something that will easily break away during fishing is dumb, just some masking tape would keep wire in place for closing but would not interfere if the wire needed replacing later if it was damaged too short to move a box or needed a different wire type. size or number of conductors.

[@jimharmon3404]

These boxless splices are approved by the NEC. I was told they started out in the Mobile home industry as interconnects when mating up double-wide homes etc. I have used them for a couple of repairs where there was no spare cable length to add a box etc. I decided to use some dielectric Ox-Guard as an added precaution against corrosion. It has been working just fine for some 10 years or so. This device is a godsend for sure.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Glad to hear ... and I really appreciate your real-world-use input Jim!!

[@1967250s]

So instead of 1 connection per wire, you have 3. In a cheapplastic housing with a tiny amount of contact area. You're better off using wire nuts and a junction box.

[@xmaspast]

He removed wago connectors to use those? I would have just used the Wago connectors in a wagobox, faster, easier, cheaper and give a better wiring contact

[@EngineerMikeF]

The little "insulation piercing" terminals are used in box fixtures designed for RV's, and they work even they work. Usually on close inspection you'll find a thin bit of insulation jammed into the vee with the conductor, so the contact is lousy. U can improve that nicely by stripping a window on one side or both of the conductor before seating into the vee; this eliminates the thin insulation from melting when the connection gets hot or the compressed insulation pushing the conductor back out of the vee, both of which are common failures.

[@nothankyou5524]

None of what you've said is factual if used correctly. Besides, who's trusting you over the NEC?

[@snowlothar45]

Your AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction( aka electrical inspector), and local codes will have the final word on these. As a 40 year retired journeyman electrician, I have seen them fail in modular homes, and would not trust them for anything. That type of connection is weak at best, and with any type of sustained load, vibration or strain, will become weaker and looser. That means heat or arcing, and that means failure and fire.

[@scottwilling5315]

I second this assessment.

[@pyrotech7210]

As long as it's UL listed, the 2017 version says it "shall be permitted." With that said, I would have to examine it quite critically (including checking the listing) before deciding whether to trust it.

[@arubaguy2733]

I can't believe the NEC or NFPA allows this kind of "splice". Insulation-displacement connection forks should be considered temporary at best (better not at all) due to their limited electrical contact points. Also, dissimilar metals contacting each other with current passing between them is always a bad idea. The shells are very likely molded of thermoplastic (softens when heated) and the "clamps" will quickly damage the NMC if used in a vibration environment. This device de-rates the entire circuit current carrying capacity. When it comes to dealing with the potentially destructive power of electricity, better go safe or go home.

[@Paul.Douglas]

You are spot on! This type of splice in the auto industry is well known for causing fires. I hate them with a passion.

[@nothankyou5524]

I can't believe you think you are more knowledgeable than the NEC. Trust you or trust the NEC. Yeah. I'm relying on you.

[@arubaguy2733]

Do you honestly think because an organization has the backing of the Federal Government that it's credible? I've worked with both NEC and NFPA guys. Typical government idiots. @@nothankyou5524

[@Scott-dn1bk]

explain then why every appliance now has aluminum wires being wire nutted together with copper house wires? Stoves, dishwashers, ceiling lights etc.

[@802Garage]

I seriously feel like a 6 lever Wago connector with a simple clip together box over it would be better than this, hahaha. It could be mounted on a metal strip with tabs to still have the pull out preventing strain relief.

[@ADBBuild]

I used one of these on an old house to extend a wire running to a light about 12". The light was a single LED flush-mount can above a sink. The sink was on an outside wall, so there was very little access to it as the roof was right there. Considering the load was very minimal, I had no concerns about using the splice. All the un-grounded outlets in the old house were/are probably more dangerous than this splice.

[@RadioRich100]

Bad idea

[@ADBBuild]

@@RadioRich100 Been that way for years with no issues. :shrug:

[@RadioRich100]

@@ADBBuild And hoping every day it stays that way?

[@NoTroubleMikeG]

You would've been better off burying a proper twisted splice in a metal box. I don't suggest this because it's not legal, but nonetheless vastly safer and better.

[@foogod4237]

I'm with a lot of other people that even if these are accepted by code, they still seem like probably a bad idea in most situations.. The really sad thing is that it seems like they could actually be so much better, though. The real key bit here that potentially makes these ok without a junction box is (a) the metal strain-relief brackets on the two wires coming in and (b) the fully-contained wire connection points. However, both of these could be better done in other ways: Make a _single_ metal bracket that both incoming wires are run through at either end. Then use something like a double-ended Wago connector in the middle, so you actually strip the wire ends to the right length, feed them into their individual holes, and clamp them down with a simple locking lever (possibly even with an enclosing plastic box around the whole thing), and then weave them through the bracket and you're done. It would provide better strain-relief, much better electrical contact, fewer potential failure points, would almost certainly be more reliable, could probably be made smaller, would be harder to do wrong, and actually wouldn't even require a screwdriver to install. That kind of device I might actually consider using. This one? Even if it's technically to code, probably not.

[@nunya3163]

I like your idea for the metal bracket, with strain relief at each end, makes a lot of sense. And I would think that even your garden variety crimped connector would be better than this thing, as there is virtually zero connection area. I would worry about this getting hot, and melting.

[@pyrotech7210]

@@nunya3163 I think this is (at least partially) responsible for the AFCI requirement. Less contact area = more chance of arcing.

[@nunya3163]

@@pyrotech7210 Less contact area = more chance of arcing = more chance of fire.

[@dalecarnegie4440]

I'm actually amazed I can't find a better version of this with wagos or screw terminals. There is money to be made there.

[@mikegardner9855]

Yes, I agree that a better splicing device could be designed, BUT, NEC 334.40(B) requires that said device be *Listed* to qualify under its exception to the requirement that a box be used for repairs such as this one. Sorry...

[@dennismayer4936]

It’s surprising how small the surface area is for the contact point where the wires fit in the slots

[@bobcarrigan1742]

I wouldn't trust it to carry much current.

[@dogwalker666]

@@bobcarrigan1742 those metal plates will cut through the insulation, And IDC always fail.

[@jentronics3754]

I have seen these arc/burn enough to kill the connection. The insulation melts some from heat traveling back from the contact failure. It was under a doublewide house trailer connecting receptacles on one side of living room to the other. I believe it happened after they plugged in a window AC.

[@dennisbosworth3665]

When connecting a water pump down into a well, you need to splice an electrical power source (240 volts) onto the pump which is submersed in well water. To do this, crimping devices, along with a bit of solder, are used to join the pump’s wires to the wires that run the depth of the well. Once the wires are joined, a special shrink tubing is slid over the union and heated. This special tubing, upon being heated, excretes a sealant that fills the inside of the shrink tubing which seals the splice and allows it to function under water. Now, if we can do that in as hostile an environment as a well, why can’t we do the same while splicing a wire in a house? It seems a much simpler and cheaper way to do this than the weird contraption that you are using to solve your problem.

[@moonolyth]

Couldn't agree more. And if it cost a couple of dollars so be it. In the end you usually cover with a box and probably still not a great connection.

[@TwilightxKnight13]

Well for one, that connection is accessible, and what he is doing in the video isn't

[@jasonstarr6419]

Years ago, when sinking a pump 400+ feet into a well, the wire splice was far beneath the water level. My cousin who was a lineman for Southwestern Bell used a special splicing kit with what amounted to liquid electrical tape, then surrounded the entire thing with a couple of rolls of regular electrical tape, pulled very, very tight. The well was poorly dug and never delivered the 350 gal per minute we were promised, but the pump never failed!

[@dennisbosworth3665]

@@jasonstarr6419 Nor would it if it was in the wall of a house. Whew - 350 gal/min. ... you must have been irrigating and orchard!

[@Jajaky]

the reason i read for no solder, is because the wire can get hot and melt the solder. Maybe since the pump and wire is submerged, the wire stays cool enough to never melt the solder? I'm trying to figure why solder and heat shrink is a no-go for wire splicing too

[@jimpie231]

I live in the midwest and everything here is in metal conduit, so we do not use romex but use solid insulated wire for homes. You cannot use anything but junction boxes for splicing, etc. You cannot cover up boxes, they must always be accessible. I have run into this a few times doing some remodeling. Our solution in ceiling or anyplace in drywall is to use a round decorative cover. They make them in white plastic or metal that you can paint if necessary. The covers I used were over octagonal metal boxes. Once installed they are inconspicuous. If I could I would include a picture. Thanks…Jim PS……I learned about these from some old electrician’s leftovers which I got at a garage sale.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Good info, Jim. Thanks for all of that.

[@rpsmith]

I'm guessing you probably live in Illinois. The reason you can't use romex and everything has to be in metal conduit is because of Unions! I think they mostly run your state!

[@jimpie231]

@@rpsmith Yes, I live in a NW suburb of Chicago. My folks lived in Charlotte, NC and they had romex. I ran into a short in their house and it caused a lot of problems. They were using a freezer in the garage and it would pop the breaker, anytime, without warning. I ended up running a separate line for the freezer, because of this problem. Eventually, I found the problem, it was a shorted out night light. The problem with romex is, if you overload a line and it gets hot, there is nothing but the jacket of the wire and the outer covering to protect you from a fire. My dad’s home in Charlotte was built in 1985. In the attic was a bundle of romex cables on top of each other going all over the house. This scared me. Here in metal conduit, you have another layer to protect you. When you run power outside it has to be 1 foot below the ground in ridgid metal conduit (thicker than the regular metal conduit), whereas in Charlotte it’s just romex, do you know how it’s protected from a shovel accidentally breaking thru? Knowing both systems, I prefer metal conduit and metal boxes. They do metal conduit everywhere, it’s a matter of choice and paying for the difference. Most businesses in Charlotte are done in metal conduit. I looked into buying a home in Myrtle Beach and the metal conduit option was there if you wanted it. Plumbing has similar options today, copper versus plastic hot and cold water lines. Plastic drainage systems are common almost everywhere. Thanks….Jim

[@rpsmith]

@@jimpie231 -- Approximately 90% of homes in the U.S. are wired with Romex and if it's installed properly it's entirely safe! And yes, some form of metal conduit is required for all business high voltage wiring throughout the U.S.. I think this post I found online from Bob Weiss mostly explains the conduit requirements in your part of the country: "Bending and installing conduit properly puts electrical work outside the skillset of the typical DIYer, creating more demand for (often unionized) professional electricians." While arguable safer, this requirement doubles or triples the cost of wiring a home in your area! Given a choice I think most new home buyers would choose Romex!

[@alphasaiyan5760]

A box can be covered up and still be accessible. Accessible and readily accessible are two different things sir. Like you can make up a box and shove it up into an attic. It’s accessible. It may not be readily accessible but it’s accessible. If this guy made up this splice and buried it in the wall that’s another thing . That’s why anytime you do any type of work whether it be electrical , plumbing , hvac , or anything you always keep records , as builts , so that you will always know where anything and everything is. You can leave notes for any future workers that may follow your work. You can leave hand written notes inside panel covers that explain what you’ve done and where things are. Doing things like that sets professional electricians apart from half assed wannabes.

[@07GoldWinger]

Found this searching for ‘Tyco Splice’. Glad I watched. Great video demonstration. This is what I needed to be able to move from a kitchen counter outlet to an island that needed more distance and to remove a light switch to convert it from switched power to always on. The fun will be doing all of this manipulation with less than a foot of wire reachable! LOL! I seriously appreciate this video!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Glad it was helpful!

[@talk2kev]

I would be careful using this in the kitchen because of the wattage we use appliances like toasters , microwaves that have a high current draw. Remember this device makes its connection via small contact area not under a screw terminal .

[@tedmoss]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Can we sue when it fails?

[@ocgabe]

I used these once and my neighbor's uncle's best friend's house burnt down so you know...there's that. (thanks for this video!)

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Glad to finally have a real-life testimonial 😉

[@campkohler9131]

As a "victim" of multi-decade-old intermittent connections due to the use of listed push-in connections, I have to agree that while these splices may be legal, are they wise? And as another has asked, how is a failed splice going to be located? The whole failing run would probably have to be bypassed with new wiring, so maybe it would be best to just do that in the first place.

[@flowerpt]

Thanks. I don't think I will be using them and your video helped me understand that. Useful!

[@pablopicaro7649]

Quite Similar to the connectors used in commercial office lighting above grid ceilings (277V, 3 phase typically). They are notorious for getting corroded and having intermittent open connections (lights go out at random times). And the Pinch for conductor is very poor quality too.

[@nate4745]

I can see millions of qualified electricians who have stared endlessly at the NEC, and sat at the feet of world weary Journeymen, listening to their teachings, react in horror to this plastic device. It goes against the grain. Nevertheless, there it is.

[@dogwalker666]

And dangerous, Almost as dangerous as wire nuts.

[@paulmaxwell8851]

@@dogwalker666 Wire nuts are NOT dangerous, and have a tremendous track record. I have never had a failure in a lifetime of electrical work. As in most things, it all comes down to workmanship and conscientiousness.

[@scottstewart9154]

@@paulmaxwell8851 Exactly the whole wire nut dangerous thing is an internet myth, actually much after and reliable than those other connectors. And what all these DIYer leave out if you have an electrical box with multiple Romex connectors and an outlet you don't have any room for anything but Wirenuts.

[@justinciallella4724]

@@paulmaxwell8851 I don't know Paul, the dog walker says their dangerous, so it must be fact.

[@tedmoss]

@@dogwalker666 Wire nuts work better than aluminum wire. I've used them for 68 years.

[@justme8340]

3/30/2024. Out of curiosity I just ordered one of these connectors to test it out. Yes, you can still buy them. I plan on making a test splice and maybe hook up a couple of space heaters and see what happens. Of course I will do this outdoors away from my house. I’m curious.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I'd watch that video!

[@richd9771]

As a G.C. I would suggest when working with anything small like screws near a sink to pull the stopper. I have had many screws fall into the sink then down the drain causing me to have to do more unnecessary work.

[@terryweisenberg396]

I dropped a Tapcon Screw down my toilet flange two weeks ago, LOL, that's sage advice you are offering...

[@richd9771]

@@terryweisenberg396 Trust me Ive done it so many times. Most of the time i remember to pull the stopper but sometimes Im in a rush.

[@SkypowerwithKarl]

If these things have gotten NEC approval, I think an investigation into the NEC board member’s bank accounts is warranted.

[@harveylong5878]

any code in the NEC warrants investigation into any NEC member's bank account. half of them are involved in companies that will exclusively benefit from 90% of the bullsh-t in the NEC

[@pld8993]

This component has been tested and listed by UL, not NEC.

[@jamesellis5549]

@@pld8993 then it is not legal,has to be an approved wiring method according to NEC to be legal,I would not use them in a dog house.

[@freedog632]

I'd like to see a mockup with one of these under a thermal camera. That tiny contact point seems like it would get a lil warm.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Great idea. Thanks for the suggestion.

[@tomwadsworth5768]

I would also like to see some test data.

[@seanm3933]

I agree

[@percyfaith11]

They have just as much contact area as a WAGO does.

[@camolotrzr4204]

good video, i can see about 99% of DIY'ers not using those metal strips

[@gurjindersingh199]

I have a junction box in my bedroom with a blank plate on it. I spliced it myself using wire nuts. I feel safe knowing it's spliced using something that is mechanically and electrically connected with substantially more surface area connecting each other than a wago, or an insulation piercing contact. I don't understand why people do things like this. The NEC or the CEC where I'm at is the law and it's your duty as an electrician to follow that law.

[@alexvega8026]

wago's are 100% safe and exceed NEC and other electrical standards in every first world country. if you're still on the bandwagon of wire nut > wago then you're not keeping up with the evolution of the trade.

[@bradarmstrong3952]

It is your duty to meet or *exceed* that code.

[@foogod4237]

@@alexvega8026 Agreed. I'm not really any kind of Wago evangelist in particular, but if one actually does look this stuff up, they actually have been heavily tested and shown to reliably provide just as good contact (almost identical measured resistance) as wire nuts do, and being much easier to use correctly (and be sure you're _actually_ getting correct contact inside, since you can actually see it), they really do seem to be the better choice nowadays, not just for convenience but also from an objective electrical standpoint. It's understandable that people would be wary of a replacement for something that's served them for so long, but every once in a while new things actually can turn out to be genuinely better... I agree that insulation-displacement contacts (such as the device in this video) for this sort of thing do seem a bit dubious, really, but people shouldn't confuse Wagos with insulation-displacement contacts. They are _not_ the same thing at all, and Wagos actually are quite legitimate in how they go about things.

[@easyedub]

Great video editing even though I can't use NM in my location. I always appreciate good YT Content Creators and give credit where credit is due.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for the kind comment, Eric!

[@chrisharper2658]

Two issues. One, I'm not sure Insulation Displacement Connectors (IDCs) are reusable. Once used the integrity is lost when re-cripped. So, I'm hoping you threw away the first set and started with a fresh set for your install. And two, just because it eliminates the need for a junction box doesn't mean it can be concealed. If it were a high current application, which in your case, it may not be, I would be worried about heat buildup years down the road. It looks like a pretty poor example of a permanent fix. Only one IDC blade per wire. Any way to pull a new piece of Romex or get attic access to place the junction box up there where it would be accessible above all that insulation?

[@waltersmith7950]

I was hoping also that he did not reuse the practice connectors. I paused the video at 7:38 to read what was written on the connector. It stated "do not re terminate".

[@MikeHarris1984]

I was thinking the same thing, but it looks like he used the same one. But he tested with 14AWG and then did 12AWG, so likely not too much of an issue with spread as he went to a bigger wire. But that small contact, that thing will overheat if high amperage (more then 1) passes through that... I would NEVER put that thing in there, thats like getting a under counter pipe accordion and saying "i'm a plumber"... Do this right! Dont use these DIY junk that the home center sells..

[@JohnThomas-lq5qp]

We were told at an IAEI continuing education class that these are legal to be installed concealed inside walls. One important thing they mentioned it's a one time connector.If you unplug it you must install a new one. Would never trust the small piece that locks into only part of the copper conductor. Best practice would be for them to make it with screws that pushes onto a flat brass plate & insist that you tighten with a torque driver.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Good info and idea, John. Thanks!

[@danv2888]

Do you think it would be better to solder the wire connections at the point where they are pinched.

[@JohnThomas-lq5qp]

@@danv2888 For at least the last 60 years NEC states that ground wires are not to be soldered due to on a high fault current solder could melt.

[@marcberm]

The one-time-use nature of these splice kits cannot be overstated. Similar to punchdown connectors and blocks for low voltage in telecom/Ethernet, these cannot create a reliable connection a second time, after disassembly and removing conductors. The first time the conductors are pushed in, the two blades of each connection point deform, enlarging the slot ever so slightly. If you haven't patched the hole yet it would be best to re-perform the splice with a new kit.

[@tracynation2820]

Super. Please dont ever splice a wire in a wall, but for those people with paid up fire insurance, at least put the wire in a metal handy box, with a metal cover, proper wire clamps, ground the box, and use proper wire connections, like wire nuts on properly twisted and trimmed wires, screw or crimp terminal connections correctly torqued, soldering, or Wago/Ideal connectors. 💙 T.E.N.

[@paulfrancis6956]

The small contact points may be a issue? What is its amp capability before it heats up

[@DiffEQ]

The fact that you refer to it as "amp capability" is telling. SMH

[@jimcervantes5659]

@@DiffEQ The fact that you feel the need to dress down an amateur is telling.

[@nothankyou5524]

The amp capability is not germane to the heat generated. Your asking meat heads about what you should be verifying yourself. Meat heads do as meat heads see, I guess. We got you. We got documentation from the NEC. Yours is the take I want to follow. Stick to what you know, if a nything.

[@garyrise7696]

It would be interesting to leave a load on it for a wile and take a thermal image of it to see how hot it gets.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Great idea Gary. If I can get my hands on another one of these, I might try to do some more extensive testing-- see if we can push it to failure.

[@rayyoudontneedtoknow6887]

To help you out. My friend, I am a retired electrician this is not really a junction box so to speak. Even though the package says so is actually a plug. Obviously, that it is perfectly legal and even stated in the national electrical code when you order a mobile modular for a school just for one example. All the lights and plugs are put together using this method. In the mobile modular's. I had to fix wires that obviously needed it and I use the same method are difficult to pull part for reason. So, good job on the video they also have them for MC cable as well as role Max cable

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for the support and extra info, Ray! It’s much appreciated 😊

[@RadioRich100]

This is an idiotic statement, those things are proven dangerous, plus this guy used a no contact tester to prove the circuit is off. Showing how dangerous he is doing electrical work.

[@bernlitzner2739]

I seem to remember that if this was being used for a repair it can be concealed. If it's part of a new run it has to be accessible. 334.40b is the reference. The electrician used these as part of a re-wire/installation of a breaker panel. I've had zero problems since install from December of 2020. New 12-2 romex to old 12-2 (no ground) system.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for the positive comment! And I believe you're correct on that code.

[@garyweber7419]

These are used extensively in manufactured housing when wire cross the seem when the craine sets the haves of the building

[@jasonstricklin2602]

I was under the impression from watching other informative videos about performing tasks in the electric industry that all splices had to be placed inside a junction box and they also had to be accessible Incase any issues occured down the line where they would have to be replaced. I remember seeing these Romex splice connectors in another video. From my understanding from that video these connectors are a 1 time use and if they were to ever fail or be taken apart for any reason they would need to be replaced with a new one. Now I understand why you don't have to strip the insulation back for the clip to make a connection Was unaware that the clip made its own connect via biting through the insulation to the wire.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Good call out Jason. Typically you would have to have the connection in a box and it be accessible, these are the exception, but these are only supposed be used for “repair,” not connecting new work. Thanks for the comment!

[@jasonstricklin2602]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I'll make a note of that I have plans of going into the electrical industry and becoming a licensed electrician and do contracted work here and the there Either for repairs otherwise new installation. I'm trying to learn as much as I can about the Industry and other various tasks( services performed ) My ultimate goal is to get my contractors license and hopefully go into business for myself otherwise perform work in partnership with a company that shares the same views as me. Currently working at the local conservation corps here in my city As a form of community service (it's paid though) to give back to my city And keep it looking as nice as it can look even with as many eye sore spots that exist within it now.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

@@jasonstricklin2602 sounds very rewarding. All the best to you in your pursuits, Jason.

[@dominicbenecasa7893]

It’s crap do not do this.

[@cryengine_x]

@@dominicbenecasa7893 he's trying to scare you. do it.

[@heroknaderi]

Keep it Comin. Dave. I enjoyed watching. Great job in the project.😀

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks Kevin!

[@jeremiahp]

Exactly what I needed to know, thank you. (Today's Clearance Price = $12.51 ea.)

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for watching :-)

[@dmkelly5491]

The lesson learned: plan and place your junction boxes more carefully. They are required.

[@joepacheco7979]

I used these about a year ago, but thought I was the only clown that used them, and was waiting for my house to burn down. Thanks for lowering my blood pressure. Wait... what's that smell?!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I literally laughed out loud. ... Thanks for the comment :-)

[@swampybman7741]

The cheaper box plus cover you promoted last junction box video. is my pick. HINT: Close the drains in sinks before working with small parts to keep from losing them. I've lost such screws and pills not doin g this!

[@va3ngc]

I suspect you would still have to check your local electrical code to see if these are allowed despite them being available at hardware stores. If you think about it, much of the items used in electrical installations are as privative as they were a 100 years ago, and very little attempt has been made to modernize the installation with plug-in wiring etc. All this stripping wire and making pigtails etc. is very time consuming. I am surprised that no one has come up with a better "plug and play" idea that would also make it safer at the same time.

[@qinarizonaful]

WAGO!

[@robertmeigs5176]

You mean "primitive"!

[@ronmack1767]

Enjoyed the video Dave. Thank you and God bless.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for watching, Ron!

[@anticapitalize]

“Your scientists were so preoccupied with whether they could, they didn’t stop to think if they should.”

[@lesterwatson8519]

I am not a big fan of those splice kits but I have been told they are NEC approved ‘no documentation I was just told that’. However if the junction box is in the attic and the attic is accessible then so is the junction box.

[@pianomanpj]

I would pay more for a splice repair kit with screw terminals with much larger contact area. I can't imagine how little current that thing can SAFELY handle. And even then I would only use it in an area where I could get at it. I sleep better at night by running new cable and having to repair more drywall. Don't get me wrong - I appreciate you documenting and sharing your experience, but these things just aren't for me.

[@DasIllu]

This is the kind of stuff they can only sell in DIY departments. Anyone who's seen a trade school from the inside at least once would get an heart attack just thinking about using them. One might say "Oh, it's just the outlet for my phone charger. No worries." Next person moves in, tumbler plugged in and that little box goes up in flames.

[@alf732]

Would you provide a link or reference for a screw type repair kit please? I have a modular and just experienced my first open neutral in one of these connectors.

[@DasIllu]

@@alf732 There are hundrets of products out there. A good start for a search would be "Splice kit" followed by the type of cable that needs fixing.

[@grounded9623]

Package may have said 'no junction box needed' but did not authorize a concealed splice. Besides a solder joint in a Marr connector and some tape would be better than this or just leave the wire nuts in a protected metal box that is grounded for a safer job. I'd like to see an inspector comment on this video. Approved for China and Russia.

[@ddjohnson9717]

USA and EU as well looks like

[@vincemajestyk9497]

That's classic! "Approved for China and Russia". I've been to both places, and you don't know how true that is.

[@darrenthompson427]

I think you could create an acceptable solution with screw down terminals. Even better would be a solder cup but I don't think electricians like soldering typically. Using insulation displacement? Absolutely not!

[@dogwalker666]

Crimps would be easier and safer than these, IDC is very un reliable.

[@kujo1372]

Thanks. You saved me from an ugly junction box in my wall next to the stove. Great video. Now a new subscriber.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks and glad to have you!

[@davidicousgregorian]

it still needs an access cover so you might as well use a proper old construction splice box and flat paintable cover

[@vincemajestyk9497]

As you're staring at the burning embers of what was once your home, you'll wish you had an 'ugly' junction box.

[@Cool-Lake]

UPDATE Edit: these splice kits are no longer available. Any other suggestion other than a junction box? I’m doing a similar job where I only have room for a splice. However, I wasn’t aware of the splice kit or even if they were safe. So I appreciate you sharing this information, thank you.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Lots of opinions in the comments as to whether this is safe or not. These are used to splice sections of manufactured housing together (double-wides). But the NEC allows them to be used for repair as well, not for new work. They are getting hard to find, but I think they're still out there somewhere. It might be the C-word that has made them scarce, and not that they're being discontinued. It's been that way for a lot of electrical supplies, especially where I live. The BEST way to do it is definitely a true junction box. If it's in a decent spot, the junction box could be an outlet or light box. I've heard of lots of guys using metal boxes (handy box with a handy box cover plate---though PLEASE NOTE this is not legal) twist the wires really good with wire nuts, and put the good metal NM clamping connectors on each side of the box, then bury the box in the wall. In my opinion, that would probably be better than these connectors-- though I can't recommend it. ---If there were a short in the metal box, your breaker should trip before any damage could be done. Just my opinion. Thanks for the comment! - I guess KZbin edited the above comment with a strikethrough

[@willhwiltjr]

you could always run a new set of Romex sure its a pain in the ass but all the equipment you would need is a decent fish tape just start where the junction would be and snag one of the wires and run pull it out of one side replace that wire with your new Romex and then run the other wire backward (fish tape attaches at the receptacle/switch/box and pull on the wire to advance the tape to the junction where you then hook onto the new Romex before fishing it the rest of the way.) granted you may need a second person to feed if you're covering any amount of distance or crossing planes i.e. ceiling to wall or wall to perpendicular wall.

[@dbretton]

@CoolLake I have some still that I can sell you.

[@johnmckee7937]

Although not code, I like plan B Dave Done right it will never fail. Make sure to ground metal junction box.

[@jtdundee]

My HOme Depot search says none... and unavailable. I think I will pass.

[@boeing757pilot]

Might eliminate a junction box, but I dont think it can be concealed or not accessible (buried in a wall). I'm skeptical. Remember when aluminum was approved for residential wiring? How did that work out?

[@davebrown6552]

Those things look terrifying they are a fire just waiting to happen. If you ever are planning to hide a junction box (for whatever reason), buy a junction box from the UK they are much better and safer than what is available in the US. wires are held in with screws, rated for 250v at various amperages they are usually in fire resistant plastic (bakalite) boxes and if they have the 'kite mark' I believe they have been tested to 600v at up to 600 amp. Ideally you should never hide a junction but then ideally you should never drive faster than the speed limit. If you want to install pot lights then their downlighter boxes are you best friend closely followed by the ceiling rose junction boxes.

[@alf732]

Would you provide a link or reference for a screw terminal repair fitting? I have a modular and have just found my first open neutral in this type of connector, more to come I'm sure.

[@georgecummings7559]

To really test this device you should run 15 amps through it then use a thermal imaging camera (in the dark) to see if there are a few hot spots.

[@ronnym1977]

His mockup was with 14/2. His functional was 12/2. I wonder if it was a more difficult installation?

[@philcook9967]

He removed the box that was already there because electrical code does not allow a box to be concealed in the ceiling with no access. He replaced the box with the splice which is allowed to be concealed with no access. Then he will cover the opening with dry wall.

[@RadioRich100]

U cant do that, and the connectors are dangerous.

[@philcook9967]

@@RadioRich100 I agree with you, I was responding to this post - Luis Larrea I'd assume the idea was to work less too, if you're cutting gypsum, you're making a mess, you may as well throw in a box.

[@RadioRich100]

@@philcook9967 Its the lazy mans way out. Run a new cable back to where you can put a box in.

[@brianw612]

No electrician here, but it seems to me a connection like this should be checked for voltage drop. At least that might indicate weather or not the connection is good. All completed connections should be checked and this video should have shown such a test. Personally, I would never use these.

[@bradarmstrong3952]

Even if it tests fine for voltage drop today, I wouldn't trust it to test good tomorrow.

[@TrevorHiller]

I feel like a male/female plug with one of those watertight outdoor extension cord plug covers would provide a more secure and water resistant connection. I can’t believe this is approved for use.

[@denniskazich7559]

These are a large leap for romex repair but the fact is that the connection exists in the wall would freak me out. They look like a connector that should be used for 12v low amperage. "Scotch Locks" lol.

[@GenialHarryGrout]

These look to be a great product for RV's where wall space is at a premium

[@thewhizard]

looks like and extension plug. If you spice in a box does the box need to be assessable?

[@homer97027]

At least the fire marshal will know where to look for the source of the fire from your video.

[@jr303official]

So Tyco is now "Te connection" and this product is hard to find. But their is another company with a nearly identical product its NSI and the model is NMS-2, they also have a great splice and tap version NMT-2.

[@johnbarone8948]

How is this any different from buring a splice in a wall or ceiling? If that connection fails who's going to know where it is?

[@NackDSP]

I saw several of these in my Winnebago making connections to the slide out. Now I know how to disconnect them.

[@joeweatlu5169]

Are these available anymore? I just checked HD's Website and don't see them.

[@garryfoster6037]

this is basically what all modular homes use.

[@dmkelly5491]

Just plug in your space heater that pulls 300 amps and you are good to go!

[@brentnelson4697]

Dave, your video helped me solve a problem when I nicked some Romex cables inside a wall. One important update, though. As far as I can tell, Tyco doesn't make these anymore. However, NSI Industries makes an equivalent product. Here's what's on the label: NSI, Wire Connectors, Non-Metallic Cable Splices, NMS-2, Wire Range 12-14 AWG, Splice for 2-Conductor Cable with Ground. I found these at a local electrical supply place. The connectors have worked perfectly for me and were not difficult to install.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for the update Brent!

[@RadioRich100]

Looks to me like this video just caused u a problem.

[@tedmoss]

These connectors work perfectly until they don't. Corrosion will cause an intermittent connection or an overload will cause a fire.

[@brentnelson4697]

@@tedmoss But wouldn’t that be true with any connection? In the situation where I used them, there was zero possibility of putting in surface access boxes. And its dry.

[@JohnTurner313]

Even if these splices are OK for code, they weren't installed correctly. There are two open screws on each connector. I've never used these (and wouldn't) but I'm betting those empty screw holes are so the splice can be screwed to a stud or wall. This connector wasn't, it's just laying on insulation.

[@davidbrieske]

Very cool useful item. What would be nice is if they have a 3 way connector where you could add (another outlet ) to a run. Not sure maybe they have something like that and I’m just not aware of that?

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

They actually do, David. It’s called a “tap” kit. But they’re really hard to find, because these connectors are really only allowed for “repairs.”

[@RadioRich100]

Not so cool when they catch fire.

[@VideoByPatrick]

Would a small wago box be better with wago spring lever action ?

[@Magnabee97]

A timely video for me because that’s exactly what I have to do. Thanks.

[@davidicousgregorian]

it still needs an access cover so you might as well use a proper old construction splice box and flat paintable cover

[@jentronics3754]

They are normally found in trailer houses, a manufacturered product, not a locally contracted electrical job requiring a inspection. If I used them in a job, my inspector would fail them. It isn't illegal to sell an item not legal to use. For example, in plumbing a S traps are illegal to install but you can still legally buy them. You need to ask your local inspector.

[@tonymeehan7859]

IMO, I think that wire nuts heavily wrapped in electrical is FAR safer than this. Wire nuts are going to give a far more direct tight connection than this. When tightly wrapped, far better direct connection

[@therebelrobot4691]

Yes but these provide you with one thing that wire nuts do not, visual inspection. I work in industrial HV and EU standards are about 10 yrs ahead of North Am., these connectors are very common in some EU countries. I could easily see these become standard over single circuit junction.

[@jimk5307]

Wrapping wire nuts in electrical tape doesn’t add value to the connections. Complete the prep and wire nut install properly and you’re golden, done, finished, complete…

[@jeffreystroman2811]

I'm a rocket scientist and I operate on brains in my spare time (between rocket launches) and you could use the old wire as a pull, and pull a new wire towards both ends from the middle. Aside from a really tight staple hidden inside the wall this will work like the Saturn 5 moon mission.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Ha ha. Great idea, Jeffrey, but in my case, there are many, many, tight staples, corners, and blocking that the wire travels through.

[@jesseewing7948]

if properly installed the staples shouldn't allow that to happen, its not secured if you can slide the wire in it only supported

[@georgejang5785]

IDC ( insulation-displacement contact) connectors are not meant to be reused. The contacts can get misshaped so I hope you didn't use the connectors that you used for "pracrice".

[@tedmoss]

That's exactly what he did, don't take his advice.

[@paullarsen1330]

I would not feel safe using this. I would prefer using inline splices that are soldered with heat shrink tubing over the individual splices . May not be code approved but a lot sturdier connection

[@2979paul]

What does the code say regarding access? Can you cover this connector in the wall?

[@Gyanprovu]

I think this is also a junction box,in a squeezy-tight way.I wonder if the 'teeth'(clamps)bite widely enough to make the necessary contact.Again,I think this device is only good for certain (low) ampere circuits.

[@brarautorepairs]

No NEC will not allow a splice to replace a junction box unless it is a repair. This would be in case your wire gets damaged. Still, sometimes adding a junction box isn't the end of the world. It just needs to be covered and painted to match the room. I've seen smoke alarms used as a junction box before to hide a previous repair.

[@Jondoe-lb8id9ms1v]

I would strip the wires a little, just to help that connection have more contact.

[@802Garage]

Kind of a pain. Quickwire in the UK makes a splitter that seems much easier overall. More compact as well. Not legal here AFAIK. Really not a fan of the vampire style connections, but I'm sure it works. It's sad to think though that a device like this could just be a 6 lever Wago style connector with 3 openings in each direction and a small screw or clip together box to go over it. Would work just as well, be just as safe, and take way less time. Anyways, at least the option exists! Thanks for the demo.

[@colincrooky]

Reminiscent of the 1970’s UK Scotch Lock, a bit dodgy! Better use WAGO’s with one their junction boxes. Thank you for your video.

[@jbridgemiii]

Is that attic insulation I see in that hole? If that's an attic space, you can just put the junction box in the attic, it doesn't have to protrude through the drywall..

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Good question. It’s a second story, but it’s insulated between floors. If it were attic, I’d have pulled new wire instead of splicing. Thanks for the comment.

[@jbridgemiii]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Yes Sir, thanks for making/sharing the video! I hadn't seen these before. I'm surprised to see insulation between floors, I've always lived pretty far south though, so that may be why.

[@NeightsTemplar]

This connector works fine for splicing wire to wire, but most of the time when I cut a wire it is to add a third length of wire to add an outlet somewhere. Is there a boxless connector for that?

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Here's a 3-way for adding a connection, Steve. This does have to be installed in an ACCESSIBLE location. "basements, attics, garages, suspended ceilings, etc., anywhere accessible" www.gordonelectricsupply.com/p/Penn-Union- Nmtk-142-122-Nm-B-Cbl-Tap-Kit/6075552?gclid=CjwKCAjwvNaYBhA3EiwACgndgmidFCny_x8yyhEp1wN6U2NFD_kHd8ug_aIvAFr8s-XE6TkVO4EpSBoCFCwQAvD_BwE

[@karenstein8261]

Sure, let’s encourage folks to violate the code. The use of such devices is limited to only certain locations on manufactured homes. In practical terms, it’s amazing how often I find electrical faults develop where wires connect - no Matt how well concealed. What should be a five minute troubleshooting job can take days as you attempt to find the problem.

[@RadioRich100]

Its not even the code, devices like those fail frequently legal or not. Its just the lazy mans way of doing it. I cant believe he would make a video to show people how to do something dangerous to save time.

[@vincemajestyk9497]

@@RadioRich100 Yeah, kind of odd seeing him going from essentially the 'proper' repair to a buried time-bomb.

[@RadioRich100]

@@vincemajestyk9497 You got that right. Its hard to believe he would make a video to show people he did it.

[@pnv8477]

I can’t believe Walmart sells the same exact romex cable as Home Depot, lowes etc but for half the price. Given they only have limited length options available as well as mostly always being sold out. Big box stores are convenient but always hustling high prices

[@alext8828]

Keep an eye on the big box stores as they will keep things out of stock so they can sell their favorites. They know if they stock certain items, it will be impossible to sell others because they're just not as good. I think some of the vendors voice their demands. Thanks for the tip on Walmart. Their only purchase scheme is excellent.

[@MichaelBeale]

Something I came across online that's relevant here: I noticed an odd phenomenon of private individuals selling bundles of Romex wire in various non-retail online marketplaces...never by bulk lengths, but usually in the largest pre-packaged (sealed, plastic wrapped) spool offered by the manufacturer. The people selling it didn't otherwise seem to have obvious ties to construction supplies, so it was odd to me. WELL... It turns out, these large rolls of residential Romex wire have become a target of theft nationwide. The word got around among the dregs of society that these bigger bundles (not offered in store by Walmart) are at a wonderful little "sweet spot" of: 1) High value, especially for something that size and lack of loss-prevention measures. The bundles are relatively accessible and compact, and they available in most any supply store. 2)There's always lots of willing buyers in need of Romex, especially buyers looking for any and all ways to minimize their expenditures. And so this has resulted in a black market. There are now people (quite likely involved in drug trafficking) who have begun accepting payment in sealed bundles of Romex...almost like its a unit of currency!?! Makes you wonder what the 200'RomexUSD currency exchange rate is, huh!? 3) The bundles are still LOW enough in value as to grab a few/a cart full, yet still remain under these new arbitrary limits for prosecution (usually ~$1000) recently set by newly installed leftist DA's in many American population centers. With Romex being a reasonably known product, its had this affect where - hypothetically - store employees can't easily argue that the value of the goods was obviously well over $1000, and so they have much less plausible justification for intervening and preventing the theft by physical force. So the Romex just walks right out the door...the thieves drive/run away...cops are called...and then nothing happens. If arrest are *SOMEHOW* get made after the fact, the charges are usually just dropped now, for no good reason. So now here we are, where a large portion of these rolls of Romex in this country are not sitting on store shelves - but instead filling up shady storage units in "urban" areas. This obviously can't continue, if we want to have a country. But yep - that's the reason for the specific price paradox you picked up on. There's just literally been so much of it stolen that its directly resulted in price hikes to help cover the losses.

[@stagggerlee]

Bought 12/2 w/ ground UV rated romex for 2/3 cost of regular romex at the HD. Perfectly fine for indoor use and saved real dollars. Makes no sense to me...

[@PeskyActivist]

Product was discontinued:???

[@alphasaiyan5760]

There’s just not enough surface area of connection at the little teeth that bite through the insulation. Yes it will make a connection and conduct electricity. Voltage will flow but when enough amperage is pulled through that circuit those little spots will heat up. Better to use a jbox with wire nuts.

[@DouglasGross6022]

That connection is not "self tapping" - it's an insulation displacement connector. These are common in cheap lamp plugs. They score the conductors by design, so I'd avoid them.

[@bertmartin1250]

Can this device be legally used on a 14/2 outside extension cable?

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I don't think it can be used where subject to weather

[@stricklandgarageaviation2864]

Does the connector handle different gauge wires?

[@stricklandgarageaviation2864]

Nevermind I saw the Grainger ad.

[@mikepowers9906]

Where do you find this splice kit. I have looked at Lowes, Home Depot and Ace and cannot find them…

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I bought mine at Home Depot, Mike. But they've been very hard to find since then. Some think they're discontinued, but it could be a pandemic thing. I've seen them at some random online electrical retailers.

[@obenwahkenobib8899]

Been there done that….close sink drain!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I hear ya!

[@user-em6ie2be7x]

Thanks for the Video & on what to buy. I have a couple of wires in my roof I needed to reattach but had no clue what I needed to buy to do that.

[@John-tq4bf]

Are those kits approved by codes of your particular area?

[@faithhealer5601]

thats what i would like to know

[@alafrosty]

I can't even find these for sale any more. Nor any sort of in-wall splice kit, actually.

[@dupeaccount1647]

Do they make any of these for 10 awg?

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I'm not sure. These are getting hard to find too.

[@kolemieux]

Great find and exactly what I was looking for - thanks for sharing.

[@AndrewLumsden]

Seriously dangerous and a potential fire hazard. Do not use.

[@RadioRich100]

Dont use them!!