Do This BEFORE You Laser Cut ANYTHING

[@DougSims]

If you cut a circle in the top corner, you can thread some string through them to hang them on a peg for easier reference.

[@I-LOVE-EARTH]

I watch a lot of tutorials, you are the ONLY PERSON to ever mention the "Shape Properties" Tab...thanks!

[@Samcraftcom]

Happy to help!! That's key in doing the power scaling.

[@I-LOVE-EARTH]

@@Samcraftcom I always wondered how it was handled, making my own now.

[@aaronshearth3671]

Got myself a M1 for Christmas and this file was ready to go! Amazing instructions and thank you for taking the time and effort to put this file together for everyone at such a great price!

[@pjh432]

Sam, you are the best at showing your work in lightburn and how it translates to the laser. I have learned a ton from you and you have saved me a ton of trial and error time. Appreciate you!

[@Samcraftcom]

Thanks Paul! I really appreciate you letting me know. It's a great encouragement!

[@chrisgraham1980]

Just purchaced the cutting pack, thank you for creating these. Happy to support another small business.

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

Library files in Lightburn are a great place to store frequently used cut/etch settings.

[@krazyforthreed8179]

In the Laser window, there is a Library tab. Highlight a specific cut/layer in the Cut/Layer window and click "Create new from layer" in the Library tab. Name the material (Hardboard, Birch, Walnut, Acrylic, etc.), specify a thickness in mm, and give it a useful description (infer from the layer settings): "Cut", "Line", "Image" or "Fill". If you're using a layer from a cut test, then you may have to create an explicitly new layer with the specific settings (7mm @ 60%) instead of using the layer with the variable shape settings. If you have another burn type from the same material but a different thickness, then highlight the layer that performed sufficiently, "Create new from layer" in the Library tab, keep the same material name, but specify the new thickness. Change the description appropriately: "Cut". Now the new library entry will be filed under the same material heading but under a different thickness sub-heading. Do the same for Line, Fill and Image with the same material and thickness(es). Eventually, you'll have all your various materials and cut types filed by thickness in one handy location. The physical tests can still be kept for reference, but do not need to clog up bench/drawer space... I also recommend redesigning your cut test to include a few varying fill & line tests - three burn types, one test ... also include the material name and thickness as the text directly on the burn test. More info: docs.lightburnsoftware.com/UI/MaterialLibrary.html

[@bneil4059]

I use hexes for my test grids too. I guess I need to change them to squares since you have a patent on the polygon :)

[@homeassistant9122]

Sam, I just purchased your card and ran it for the first time. I was really overpowering my cuts... didn't need near the power I was laying down... you've probably extended my tube life. Thanx.

[@Samcraftcom]

Great to hear! Thanks a ton for helping to support me by purchasing the file!

[@jdw1407]

where do you find 3mm maple and walnut?

[@MsKami25]

Is there a video that demonstrates how to do this using xTool's software instead of Lightburn?

[@MattMadeIt123]

Perfect timing. My laser was just delivered, and I know NOTHING about laser engraving/cutting. I'm heading out of town for a week, so next week, I'll be going through this process as I learn about my new tool. I don't have Lightburn, but I do have Vcarve Pro. Are your test files compatible with the Vcarve laser module? I see Lightburn is pretty affordable. Maybe I'll just get it. Anyway, thanks for this Sam. Great info for a beginner like me.

[@Invaderjason123]

Planning on knocking the dust off my K40 this week and renew my LB license. This video literally came out in perfect time.

[@shentharo]

where do you get the laser positioning cross from?

[@SANDHAPPS]

Fantastic video! Your thorough explanation of cutting tests with laser engravers was incredibly insightful. I particularly appreciated the way you broke down the concept of cutting tests, when to use them, and the detailed steps on how to run them effectively. It's clear you have a deep understanding of the subject. Also, your custom-designed cutting test looks amazing and seems like a valuable tool for anyone in the engraving field. Heading to your website now to check it out. Thanks for sharing your expertise and creating such an informative and helpful video! 👏

[@dhurata6235]

Thank you for the video. Could you please share what exhaust fan you use or recommend? Thank you

[@kandiharris3174]

Hi Sam. I purchased your test files (engrave and cut) from your Etsy store. They work great but the line text doesn't print on any of them. I have the xtool d1 pro 20w and use creative space

[@pejdpink]

Hi there! I love your video and I purchased your file on Etsy Canada! I just purchased an AP Lazer SN4836LR 100Watt laser and love it, but want to do the test cards you created. I'm afraid because I'm not sure if the settings you have on these cards will start a fire etc...I'm a newbie and nervous!! I also bought your engraving test card too...can you help with the settings so I know I"m doing it right?

[@Estheryaaa]

Hi, thanks for much for the video, I got one question, I have bought the laser cut file, and i want to cut them with the size i wanted, but after i have scaled them and cut, i am not able to assemble them again, do you have any idea about the setting? much appreciated

[@PeMo44]

Thank you so much for this video. Thanks to you, I finally figured out how these test boards are made !

[@heffe2001]

Yep, mandatory with anything you plan on cutting.. I even do it between batches, 'cause things can change with your vendor. I usually use the one that Lightburn creates, but I definitely like the look of the ones you have here, the hexes just look better to me than a bunch of cirlces, lol.

[@georgewilmore7599]

Yes the need to run test is important. I have wasted material running without testing. I have finally realized how important it is.

[@michaelenglund]

Thanks for the vid. How come ypu clamp the material down? How big/small risk is there that the sheet would move?

[@Samcraftcom]

I only clamp pieces down if they're warped and do not lay flat. :)

[@ckonthebay1950]

Very nice. I always run the test first without the profile cut. Look at it on the bed and pick a power and speed to run the profile. That way I know it will get cut out and not just taking a guess.

[@Jake-Curious]

Why you don't use the high power with you xTool laser? The support team advised me to use 100% power to let it lasts longer. Please advise.

[@Samcraftcom]

That's opposite to what many in the community say; that lower power will let it last longer. I honestly pick the setting that works best for the material or project needs.

[@Jake-Curious]

@@Samcraftcom You are probably confusing this with another type of laser - CO2. Customer support would not cheat, what do you think?

[@Azurko]

I've been trying to figure out how to cut with my laser the last few hours (only engraved until now) and here you come with a cut test! I'll have to give it a go in the morning :)

[@jayedwin98020]

Would it be appropriate to laser the material information, etc., in the blank area on the front of the cutting test piece, as compared to writing that information on the back? There's a blank area on the left side of the cutting test, just above the "SPEED: mm/x", that might allow you enough room to do this.

[@scottshrum4119]

How do you speed up the cut test? I created my own and it says 2 hours. I have a Roly Lasermatic 10 w I was doing the regular grid engrave test. Going to purchase your test

[@TheFalconJetDriver]

I just bought a Longer Ray 5 10 watt laser with air assist, just last night I made several test burn/ cuts scales 😁🛫

[@drlehman73]

Is there a way to enable "Fire laser" in Lightburn to appear so one can perform a test fire to see origin? Your channel is very helpful. Thanks for the great content!!

[@SanjayKandekar-qh8st]

Very usefull info thanks for your time and efforts.

[@vacation_generation]

Really good video. Thanks

[@pmdinaz]

Wow. I'm brand new to this and this was very informative and insightful Thanks!!

[@mgervais10]

Hello Sam After laser a Chatcuterie boards. How do or can you get the burn smell out. I use butcher block oil then block oil for butcher block

[@18mtoo]

Thanks so much. it's so good to have so much good advice. Top hole old chap.

[@gatnact]

How much of my air assist do I want on for cutting wood. Seems as if I keep burning all the way thru my wood. Like catching fire and burning holes. I tried halfway on and still seems to burn. Atomstack x20 6mm 3 ply wood.

[@Samcraftcom]

I've only used the small air pumps from companies and always at full power.

[@TomDobosenski]

I just unboxed my xtool laser and did one test piece. Then I tried to cut the patterns. However, the test cut show up on my computer screen correctly but when I did the laser cut everything is mirror image. I am brand new at this but can someone tell me what I did wrong. Thanks.

[@kimorvis3211]

Great information. I am thinking about adding a laser to my workshop in the future. Videos like this will help when I'm ready to set up and produce.

[@Samcraftcom]

Great to hear!

[@thelmaroof]

When I bought your laser cutting test panel, material hold downs were included. Are they made for the XTool honeycomb? Because the ones I got don't fit.

[@Samcraftcom]

They're the ones that fit my xTool honeycomb table... check out boxes.py for their holdfast section where you can enter parameters and download other sizes.

[@randolph50]

I really like your videos, your creativity and your great attitude. I have 2 diode and 2 CO2 lasers but haven't had the time and space to get them into production. I am currently building a new workshop so your workshop videos helped too. Thanks.

[@Samcraftcom]

Thanks! I'm fast running out of space in my workshop too. It's a 12x20. I've thought of doing a few lean-to add ons to expand it to help. :)

[@randolph50]

@@Samcraftcom Thanks Sam. I like your "get in there and do it until I figure out how I am supposed to do it" attitude. :-) I have a 12X28 with the "barn" style roof. The double doors open on one side. I am going to add 8 ft of floor to the 28 ft side opposite the door and basically move that wall out and add 2-8 ft panels to the end walls, and change that side of the roof to fit. Hard to describe without a napkin to draw on.I will have to put a post every 8 feet where the wall is now but I will end up with a 20x28 workspace.

[@homezero]

Idea for you: Make a display rack/shelf for your cut tests for easy access. Hey, Did I miss the video for your French cleat tool wall?

[@goldivox]

You say lightburn is compatible with F1 but I can’t find instructions on how to get it to recognize F1 (i.e. setup). What am I missing?

[@phototec]

Great video, I am a newbie to laser, I have a Red & Black 80-watt C)2 Chinese laser, will your test file work for me and what power setting would I set the laser to when cutting your file? As I mentioned, I am new and not real sure how to use this file with my laser?

[@angie.frazier]

Enjoyed the video, going to purchase from your website. Can this cutting test be used on other materials such as leather and acrylic? I am new to this and have a 60w Omtech CO2 laser. Thanks so much.

[@TrevorMatthews]

Hey Sam, I bought your tests and just have a couple questions. How do you know which file you want to run? So for the cut tests theres 3-7mm-s, and 8-12... Is it just trial and error to see how they perform til you get a feel for things? Or are they geared to materials? Slower cut tests for wood, faster for acrylic... Other question (I'm xTool d1 20w if it matters) when a layer is set to 75% power, and an image is on there say at 50% power, does that get 'laser'ed' at 50% of 75%?

[@luiscampos8808]

can i use this for different size materials? 1/8, 1/4.

[@Samcraftcom]

Absolutely! I'm using it on 3mm or 1/8" material in this video, but also use the same file for 6mm or 1/4" material in my CO2 laser. You may need to adjust the speeds depending on your laser wattage and material thickness though.

[@luiscampos8808]

@@Samcraftcom thank you. I downloaded the file and I’m going to try it tonight.

[@perrycarmichael3829]

After my tests, I put them in a spreadsheet. Less "stuff" cluttering my laser area. I also add other notes, like settings for sliding lid burn relif (not all the way through), sources, best box generator, etc.

[@kurtopalka5201]

I like the pattern! Do you put the results into the library on lightburn?

[@JohnMarshall-yq6zq]

Hey man thank you for making these videos and files

[@Samcraftcom]

My pleasure!

[@deannaoverstreet4146]

Thanks Sam!

[@captkmk3226]

Nice Sam, I have subscribed and I like your pace its good for me for sure. I'm eight weeks in with the laser, so when I loaded your cutting test and followed the spd/pwr settings, it says like 4 plus hours so it's clear I've missed a very important part, would you or one of your subscribers be able to tell where I can look to solve my time frame? Thanks

[@Samcraftcom]

I would suspect you may have speed settings at mm/min whereas this file is designed for mm/s, but that's an assumption.

[@captkmk3226]

Sam thanks for the reply, I got it now I really just need to be able to understand what I'm reading, Thanks again have a great day.

[@rmg5353]

Just a quick question for the Xtool d1 pro 20 watt, max speed is 400 mm/s. I bought your files and I see the lower speeds for cutting and 20+ mm/s for engraving. Is it better to cut at a lower speed and engrave at higher speeds? Just starting out and want to get it right. Thank you 👍🏻

[@Samcraftcom]

I prefer to engrave fast and low power, but cutting will sometimes require slow and hot, depending on the material you're cutting through.

[@rmg5353]

@@Samcraftcom thank you, we just used your file, very easy to use, and we have taken the guesswork out of settings! Thank you 👍🏻

[@peterorndorff1172]

great video man.

[@rightpassage]

Hey brother! I have an issue can anyone help? I was running a job on my extension for the first time for a customer & well, the short storying is my D1 Pro 20w hit the board and stopped. Now when it moves suddenly forward on the Y like an inch it will have a grinding sound. Sounds like it's from under the laser itself? & it also moved of track in the process of the job. 😮‍💨 It did skip some teeth on the belt too. What say you? Wasted $30 board & paint. 😒 PS: thanks for the cut vid. I was wonder what settings for the 1/4 inch I "was" going to cut out. Next time, back to the store I go.

[@nightwalker3569]

Dude, there are individual lines in this program, how can I turn them into one piece?

[@BigBigNRGY]

Will this work for any diode laser? I have a Sculpfun S10.

[@Samcraftcom]

Any running Lightburn, yes.

[@BigBigNRGY]

@@Samcraftcom awesome. Thank you.

[@Dekweekschuur]

Put it in lightburn material list. So you have the settings on the fly

[@ericbeasley3132]

First off, great video! Does your file work in xtool creative space?

[@Samcraftcom]

Thanks! Here is the xTool Creative Space version of the file set: sam-craft.com/product/xtool-creative-space-laser-test-file/

[@iq0099]

Thank you for the tips

[@kjk9771]

Thanks for this! I have a side question for you... I've got an Ortur LM2 Pro and it works just fine. However, when I use it to cut good wood, especially a sappy wood like walnut, the air assist nozzle gets all gunked up with sap and soot and then sometimes the sap interferes with the cutting/movement. Even if I have it set to 3 passes and stop to clean it up between each pass, it's just a mess when it comes to sap. Considering this, do you think a small, maybe 40 watt CO2 laser would handle this better? I don't mind some sap cleanup but not to the extent that it'll ruin the cut while in the process. Do you have an opinion? I've never used a CO2 laser but I'm finding the Ortur pretty limited to basswood and other woods that are low in sap. Many thanks for any thoughts on this!

[@robertbankhead8661]

Excellent work Sam! Always appreciate your down home approach to tech and non-tech. You keep 'new' coming, hope the algorithm favors you! So one question,, just exactly what X machine did you buy and what accessories? About to order one and curious.

[@jerrykennedy6555]

OK bought file and down loaded my Comgrow Z1 won't burn the letters Verry few shapes lasered and no cut thru What am I missing

[@jerrykennedy6555]

And my speed letters at upside down and backwards.

[@vickyrupe8999]

Awesome video 🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙

[@dian3145]

Sam, it is really cool to see your progress. From sanding cheap spoons to stand out from the competition to Lightburn tutorials. Way to go!

[@blondefoxcreations]

One thing I think you forgot (or not?) to mention is before you run a cut (or engrave) test, you need to ensure your lenses are all clean/clear. This way, your test is based on "perfect" conditions. I am baffled why people still aren't labeling their cut tests with the laser module metadata on them as well. 80% power is meaningless if you have no idea what the maximum power (example: 20W, 40W, etc.) of the tested module is. Not adding this information makes zero sense to me unless you only have one laser and never plan on purchasing another.

[@Sithraldor]

Any particular reason you only go to 90% on you scale?

[@Samcraftcom]

Just the habit of not trying to run my lasers at full power to lengthen their expected life span. :)

[@pmartin6759]

👍👍👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

[@jesusislord2457]

☮️💖🙏🤜

[@zmnali78]

Talking too much.

[@damienwalters2103]

70% talking with his face on camera only, 30% actual demo.. boring and gasbagging too much

[@Samcraftcom]

Definitely don't watch any of my other videos... they're all going to be the same. :)

[@OldManGaming69]

Sam, is your shop still off grid?

[@krazyforthreed8179]

In the Laser window, there is a Library tab. Highlight a specific cut/layer in the Cut/Layer window and click "Create new from layer" in the Library tab. Name the material (Hardboard, Birch, Walnut, Acrylic, etc.), specify a thickness in mm, and give it a useful description (infer from the layer settings): "Cut", "Line", "Image" or "Fill". If you're using a layer from a cut test, then you may have to create an explicitly new layer with the specific settings (7mm @ 60%) instead of using the layer with the variable shape settings. If you have another burn type from the same material but a different thickness, then highlight the layer that performed sufficiently, "Create new from layer" in the Library tab, keep the same material name, but specify the new thickness. Change the description appropriately: "Cut". Now the new library entry will be filed under the same material heading but under a different thickness sub-heading. Do the same for Line, Fill and Image with the same material and thickness(es). Eventually, you'll have all your various materials and cut types filed by thickness in one handy location. Use the Assign Button in the library to modify the currently selected layer to the selected library material. The physical tests can still be kept for reference, but do not need to clog up bench/drawer space... I also recommend redesigning your cut test to include a few varying fill & line tests - three burn types, one test ... also include the material name and thickness as the text directly on the burn test. More info: docs.lightburnsoftware.com/UI/MaterialLibrary.html