Does 8K Resin Really Make a Difference?

In todays video I'll be using the Phrozen Sonic 8k Mini to see if using 8K resin really makes a difference compared to standard resin.
Sonic Mini 8K: phrozen3d.net/...
Aqua-Gray 8K: phrozen3d.net/...
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[@PantsReduction]

But which one tastes better?

[@GrayScalpMiniatures]

The next and final video I make “what resin tastes the best?” 😂 follows up by immediately going to a tanning bed.

[@kitthecat948]

8k tastes the best

[@jensenlopez2944]

​@@kitthecat948just got a printer and I should really use gloves. Been getting slight sweet taste on my food 😅😅

[@netnoob77]

Good job in priming the models first for the comparison. A lot of reviewers did not do this and as a result, the dark grey colour of the 8k looked sharper to them due to the higher contrast and more concentrated colour pigment. As for the side-by-side comparison, to my eyes at least, some parts of the ABS Like resin print actually looked better. The 8k resin print had some print lines, which may be due to underexposure? Still very close, and considering the price premium and brittle nature of the 8k resin, I'd prefer to stick with ABS Like. The other thing you can also do is a blind test. Get someone to judge which print looks better without telling them which print is which. Would be interesting to see if they can pick out the 8k resin print.

[@GrayScalpMiniatures]

That’s something I’ve got planned for a future video. I’m going to pick up a few 8k resins and standard resins and just print a variety of models, prime them, and let a section of people tell me what they think is best. Hopefully that will give a good indication if it truly is better or not. Definitely agree with you that I prefer the overall quality and package of the ABS like resin.

[@MonoZeus]

I appreciate and respect a company that doesn't require you to shill for them in a review despite sending you the product. Thank you for that honesty! And if that's truly the case, thanks Phrozen.

[@GrayScalpMiniatures]

Yeah I really like that they just ask me to send a few video ideas over then they just select one they think their products would fit in. Feels natural and hopefully works out better for them and the creators in the long run.

[@VideoCesar07]

Thanks for confirming what many of us probably already knew or at least suspected that a) the darker color will skew the results towards the 8K resin and b) that once you prime the figure if it is properly oriented to give it the smoothest surface then when you prime them they would be nearly indistinguishable since the primer would fill in any layer lines, at least when viewed with the naked eye. I want to get the most detail out of my prints but with standard resin being so brittle I will stick with ABS-like or ABS and High Tough mixtures of 80/20.

[@withgoodtaste]

Really useful information. Thanks for the video, it helped me a lot.

[@robguyatt9602]

When you were talking about layer lines being less visible and being impressed I thought I would make a point. If a resin gives greater detail then layer lines have to be more prominent. Layer lines are a detail. Only lower layer heights can reduce their visibility. Each resin will have a smallest particle size. That size has to be larger than the layer height for layer lines to not be visible. My printing is for functional parts such as small gears. I need high accuracy.

[@xnetshadowx]

Great video and exactly what i was looking for, also, in my opinion as a new person to the hobby, the dark greay resin results are easier on the eye to check for details on it, the light grey one makes it difficult

[@GrayScalpMiniatures]

Yeah it gets tricky to see the difference when they're primed like that etc. I think in future I'm just going to prime them one single colour in comparisons to help avoid any mistakes or discrepancies.

[@stalker1567]

what settings for the Elgo 8k resin in the Phozen printer did you go for?

[@brendanarmstrong7802]

8k on resin is absolutely nothing but a marketing term. You are probably going to see better results from 8k resins because brands are now marketing their high-detail resins as 8k, but it's by no means a requirement. Siraya Tech Fast Navy Grey, my go-to, has added 8k to the bottles with no change in formulation. It's also worth noting that you're likely to see 8k-branded resins be more fragile, as that higher detail generally comes from the resin having a higher material hardness when cured. And as someone who got into miniatures entirely through 3d printing with no real GW influence, I can say safely that it's not a mental trick that makes dark grey resins appear higher-detail. They're simply easier to see detail on, and especially photograph much better. The same goes for resins with lots of matting agent to give the prints a more matte finish. Again, without all the shininess, they look and photograph better, making them appear to be higher detail than comparable prints in other materials. Also, to my knowledge, even the original Elegoo Mars could go down to .01 layer height. I can't personally see any improvement beyond .03 though. I think the Saturn 2 has knocked it out of the park with the ideal resolution for anything short of jewelry.

[@GrayScalpMiniatures]

Recently did a test between layer heights and found that 0.3 was a really good sweet spot for me, especially when using things like speedpaints. The fragility of the prints is definitely a concern and why I pretty much exclusively use Elegoo ABS like resin for my main stuff. Great detail and far more durability in these clumsy hands 😂

[@harleyuk322]

How would you compare the Phrozen to the Elegoo? I'd have love to have seen you print them up with both resins on both machines!

[@blaze556922]

Thank you I don't see any reason to spend more on 8k resin when the ABS looks better imo

[@BenLewitt]

My only resin experience before getting the Phrozen Mighty 8K was with the Peopoly Moai which is laser-based. The regular Peopoly resins were pretty nice but otherwise the machine is a bit of a nightmare compared to all that's evolved in the hobby since. I've only used the 8K gray resin on MSLA and the quality is amazing but it's FAR more brittle compared to anything I've been used to from Peopoly. They had their tough resin too, but their general stuff seemed a lot sturdier... unless I am doing something wrong which is entirely possible since I am still getting used to MSLA.

[@Bobyoudontneeemyname]

Regardless…the detail would have to be magnitudes better for me to move away from abs like for minis, now if we get an abs like 8k…then i might think about it

[@GrayScalpMiniatures]

100% I think it’s nice to have for certain things where you want to have the absolute best detail, but the detail on the abs prints is just so good regardless, considering how well these printers are doing. 8k ABS like resin would be great, but probably crazy expensive as well.

[@Ankhschannel]

I bought my phrozen sonic mini 8k 2 weeks ago and ive been using mainly the 8k resin so far as ive done minis. However, its a bloody djungle out there so i really don't know exactly what to get. My mates want me to print stuff to them with details AND strength. What resin to get? I need to print things that can handle some bumps and such as they want parts for their airsoftguns (and one want for her sewingmachine). Also, what about the speed resin? I saw that its not really that expensive atm. Is it worth getting for minis? The ones ive been looking at atm (apart from the one ive already tried, the 8k one that is) are the following Prozen Speed Resin (good for minis? I need LOTS of minis!) Phrozen ABS-like Resin (well, you did say that was not that big difference from the 8k resin..so it might be good for some stuff) Phrozen - Washable Resin grey (So hows this for things with perhaps not as small details as minature figures..but still some level of details? Perhaps for bigger stuff like spaceship models and so?) The place i order from (3djake) has some of their own brands aswell, but i could not find any chitubox profiles for these..) Still worth giving it a go?

[@GrayScalpMiniatures]

My go to resin for minis is ABS like resin. The one I use most is Elegoo ABS Like resin. Gives me great details and the minis can take a knock or two. 8K resin is too brittle in my experience.

[@tristanc2271]

Do you think you could have had the 8K resin dialed in / calibrated / set better than the ABS, and that is why it printed better??

[@davesmith9844]

GW print their prototypes that the moulds are made on, you can see layer lines in some models.

[@NerdBlockVersion1.0]

1st off love the video. I have Question for you. My son got me a Saturn 3 Ultra 12K for Xmas. I was wondering what resin should I use. I wanna make some medium movie props . No bigger then your hand and some video game displays. What would you recommend?. Thanks in advance

[@GrayScalpMiniatures]

I think it depends on the flexibility needed. If it’s a non flexible piece I’ve really enjoyed using Sunlus basic resin as it’s cheap and prints really well with very little tinkering.

[@NerdBlockVersion1.0]

@@GrayScalpMiniatures Thank u so much this really helps.

[@vinclaud]

How do you get almost no marks on the model from supports? I seem to always get either holes or marks

[@GrayScalpMiniatures]

I’ve always been pretty lucky with less noticeable marks. So long as I remove the supports before curing things seem to be fine.

[@gabojill19]

The benefit of an 8K vs 4K is to have a bigger build area without compromising (and even "improving") quality. If you have the same build area then it makes very little sense

[@TheJoshkc662]

The models don't look particularly detailed. I understand that there's lots of intricacy but to see the difference you would need a model with details too fine for a normal resin to reproduce and compare with that. Are these "8K" models? Watching a 1080 movie on a 4k tv doesn't automatically make the HD details look UHD (it's just an analogy folks don't get distracted by upscaling 😂).

[@JHartModelworks]

Pixels per inch means pixels ... per .. inch. Not pixels across the entire build plate. The entire point behind using measurements like pixels per inch is to equalize measurements across different sized areas. just like looking at per capita statistics of say 1 per 1000 people is designed to measure effects equally between densely populated areas like urban cities verses less populated rural areas. 8K on an 8 inch build plate is the same as 8k on a 10 or 12 inch build plate because it measuring pixels per inch.

[@MrAndyPuppy]

do you have a link for the minis? :)

[@GrayScalpMiniatures]

Woops, just updated my description and added them.

[@RcNerd]

I use it on my mars 2 pro 😂😂 works great.

[@Cc-bh3ye]

5:30, the ABS resin looks better xD look at the pattern on the shell thats next to the cloth on the ABS resin then look at the 8k, u cant even see the pattern on 8k xD

[@hohhan1978]

For my personaly. His bad painting job and poor focusing on camera makes every ABS resin looks sharper and more detailed than 8k one. There was no reason to paint them as far as you can simply adjust brightness in photjshop and use focus stacking with your mackrolens. That shuld work better.

[@scottyboy6269]

it's not worth it at all, paint job makes a difference.

[@silverpaladin1859]

ABSOLUTELY NO DIFFERENCE. It is ALL marketing BS. If you printed 2 prints with the same resin on the same printer at different times of day with different ambiant temperatures you could get that slight difference. Someone is getting paid/free crap, that is the only difference with all this mess IMHO. People have to stop with this marketing BS, all they want to do is charge more for the same resin.