Domestic Lighting, Emergency Lighting with key switch

[@doomain6769]

Just doing a little lighting job with both maintained and non maintained emergency lights. Not done emergency lighting for a few years but Pretty much how I'd figured it.. good little video to jog the loose memory cogs

[@sparkyhelp3997]

Thank you glad to help

[@RocketRossUK]

that fart at 8:34 ha ha ha

[@angelofranklin1]

Hi Paul, in the very old day's I remember it was always classed as bad practice to have neutrals at the switch, apart from that a lot more difficult in wiring especially when you would have to take two twin and earth cables down to each switch behind the wall plaster metal sheathing (feed and neutral in, switch wire and neutral out). It was always insisted that all the lights were looped together via the ceiling roses. The other issue I would worry about is the depth of the single switch backbox possibly not being able to accommodate all the cables and then possibly having to change to a single 13 amp socket back box to contain all the cables, especially if you have to loop to other lights from the same switch. We always did all looping via the ceiling rose and it is what I would highly recommend. In regards to the emergency lighting that's exactly the way we always carried out the wiring. I think today they call that maintained (switched).

[@sparkyhelp3997]

Yes I know the three plate system is how is how I was taught when I was training, but techniques change - deeper boxes. I think you need to know both methods and adapt to suit your environment.

[@richardriard5153]

Having neutral near switch sometime is advatage. Especially for alternations/additions

[@messedupeffects]

Very good explanation, thanks,

[@sparkyhelp3997]

You are welcome! Please Like, Share & Subscribe.

[@marcwilliams3921]

Forgot to mention there is key switch and a normal switch

[@sparkyhelp3997]

Check the specification, however, I have always configured it so the all the room lights went out to test the emergency lighting.

[@marcwilliams3921]

I’m doing an office fit out. A lighting circuit has em panel lights and normal lights, using a grid switch. Should the em grid switch just isolate the em lights, so it just simulating a fault or test with them or should the em grid switch isolate the em lights as well as all the lights?

[@sparkyhelp3997]

see above comment - hope it goes to plan.

[@triplerjm2353]

Thanks for the video Paul and view your tutorial over n over but still can’t solve the issue that I am having at work. I was told to move the 4 gangs switch modules with one dish key switch but forgot to take a picture of the connection. To cut the long story short. Gang 3 it’s a 2 way switch linked to a fish key switch. I can’t link the switch 3 with emergency fish key switch. How do I solve this issue.

[@triplerjm2353]

There is a twin n earth cable control the waiting are light, customs said, before when you switch the emergency fish key up it cut out the light n the emergency light comes on but since I relocated the switch the emergency light isn’t coming on. Any advise please

[@sparkyhelp3997]

The emergency fitting needs a permanent feed and possibly a switched supply for it to work. If the emergency (permanent) feed is missing(from the key switch) the light will not operate.

[@paulmandara5576]

how would you convert a panel ceiling light to emergency with emergency control gear ??

[@sparkyhelp3997]

You would need another switch line taken from a local point so you can test the emergency/charge the luminaire. If you have a permanent line conductor at the luminaire (three plate style) you could switch this, but you may turn off all lights on the circuit when testing.