DON'T BUY ANCHOR CHAIN BEFORE WATCHING THIS!

Not all chain is created equal. Before you buy your anchor chain, make sure you learn from our mistakes...
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[@tomodorecoast3464]

The anchor swivel will be side loaded not just when retrieving but at anchor when the wind or current shifts. Modern anchor design hold better so side loading more likely than older Delta or CQR types.Consider adding a quality galvanized bow shackle and short chain between anchor and swivel. Not an issue in calm and even moderate conditions but in a blow it is one less worry.

[@abakker]

Yes, Rocna recommends this also and i did the same.

[@moorhs69]

You MUST put a shackle between your anchor and the swivel or it will snap off if it gets loaded from the side, Its not about pulling the anchor up,its about preventing the swivel from shearing off when wind/current/swell puts a sudden side-load on the anchor. Swivels are not designed to handle side-loads. Don't risk your boat just to make pulling the anchor over the bow roller 1 second quicker. Connecting a swivel directly to an anchor is the most common cause of failure in an achoring system. I lived on/sailed my boat in the Caribbean for ten years and saw it happen at least a couple of times a year.

[@waiakalulu3501]

The bronze anchor roller bushing was just an awesome sight to see. Machinist fathers are richest resources our world has ever known. You should be so proud. Lucky to have them!!!!

[@scenefromabove]

Just want to publicly thank you both for the box of Mexican memories I was fortunate to win some time ago. I am still sifting thrtough the goodies, savouring them, and I for one am pretty sure that not too many folks here in an Australian small coastal town will understand the significance of my new Mexican flag, or recognize my new "Don't buy the couch!" Tshirt! Thanks again

[@alfredowestley3210]

Instablaster

[@flyingdutchman6984]

In over 40 years of sailing I have only cut my anchor rode once. I was being run down by a much larger vessel and had no choice except to cut my anchor free. I prefer to use a Mantus swivel as it makes it easier to change anchors than most setups.

[@nagarajprasadh]

I don’t have a boat. I don’t like boats. Seen an anchor only when It was 50 feet away. But thoroughly enjoyed the two of you replace the anchor chain. You made it so watchable. Fantastic narration and could not stop watching it. Thank you.

[@claywebb8199]

Good vid guys....BACK ON FORM👍👍👍 Guys just be aware when you are retrieving your anchor - as in the vid - do not drive it all the way home with the winch, stop just short. The motor has quite high torque and the strain/load on the motor shaft pin would be high. Over time ramming it home again and again and again may well cause the pin to fail. It's a common cause of motor to capstan failure. Oh and Dan.......WEAR SOME SAFETY GLASSES!...cutting wheels DO break and as good a look as a sailor wearing an eyepatch is it's a high price to pay to look cool. 😬😬 👍👍👍👍

[@zguesss]

Your channel is a good example of buy once, cry once! Love your work guys keep it up!

[@Jmmondeau]

So sorry Dan... I saw that hand pinch coming. Yep too many years at this job. Love you guys.

[@ratusbagus]

I have two crushed fingers (one surgically reattached) in splints and I'm a third through reconstructive surgeries and (15) months of physio therapy because I didn't roll out and ditch a fouled chain in a choppy cove at the start of June (3 months ago). Your threaded through line is a great "must" idea. If it happens to you ditch the kit and retrieve it later....or even just lose it rather than a hand.

[@BoB-Dobbs_leaning-left]

If you are not using a guard or face mask Never use a grinder with a cutoff wheel in line with your face, especially when cutting in a deep cut. If the wheel catches and fractures you could end up with a horrendous facial injury or even lose an eye. Word to the wise. Edit, glad to see I'm not the only one that knows this... ;-)

[@chronicawareness9986]

i knew a guy with fucked up vision from doing that... his eyes had dark bits in them from stuff

[@MrLoobu]

Yep I knew of a guy almost died when one broke and sunk deep in his thigh almost lacerated an artery.

[@BxCortez2050]

I swear watching him cut that they way he did made my cringe

[@SOLDOZER]

Are you his daddy?

[@officialWWM]

Holy crap, no guard on the grinder, no face protection, no ear protection, no gloves and no shoes! He's lucky to be alive 😂

[@billroberts9182]

I have 300 ft of chain on my sailboat, but have been able to use only 150 ft because of kinking in the chain (gets hung up in the gypsy). Your video made me realize that slightly rusted chain "castles" when retrieving the anchor- then it falls over in the chain locker which leads to twisted chain. I have a swivel on the anchor, and the gypsy will not allow the chain to be twisted when retrieving the anchor- but the castling clearly explains the source of the kinks! I need new chain or re-galvanization. Thanks!

[@eliaszen5244]

Hi, the Italian brand is KONG produces quality products for mountaineering and sailing

[@faircompetition1203]

Love that you did not cut out the hand pinch mistake , it is the reality of working on anything and a good lesson for all ..Glad to see no lasting damage .

[@cosmoslogic9088]

It only takes one incident with a cutting disc to get your attention as to how dangerous they really are great advice to all who use them no joke. Long time welder here i know.

[@CheersWarren]

One point to remember your anchor chain usage is probably 50x the typical cruising boat that might only anchor a few times a year for just a night or 2 and has plenty of time to wash off their chain with fresh water when they get back to the dock. But I am defiantly glad to see you with a new chain! Prehaps you could redirect some of that extra rain water you collect into washing your chain! Great vid as usual. Cheers Warren .

[@RiggingDoctor]

Beautiful bronze! Love the new bow roller

[@mariospapa100]

Hello from Greece. I would like to tell you that as I am proffesional seaman (Chief Officer in ULCC Tankers) for 20 years and it is a common problem to all chains-sizes-quality of steel the rust. The only thing you can do, is to maintain chain more often by derusting it and paint it with white marine colour and every 1 year to change the ends upside down. Be aware that when you anchor, the anchor by herself don't holding you in place, only the length of the chain laying to the bottom of the sea. Have nice voyages and hope to pass from our waters one day and to join our places.

[@calvinh.8882]

Just a thought.. After spraying that piece of rope you use to keep the chain from going overboard with that rust remover, that rope is going to deteriorate pretty quick.. Because you removed all the oils out of it.. I know you will most likely never have to use it, but if i was you i would at least spray some oil on it for now, and replace it some day when you get a chance.. Peace!

[@calvinh.8882]

Oil, or whatever they use to keep it from deteriorating so quickly.. I'm not sure what they use, but i'm betting there is some type of oil based something in most ropes.. I know for a fact that using bleach or things like that rust remover will dry rope out..

[@MrA1582000]

Put a serious rope on the end of the chain, one strong enough to hole the boat. Suspect that small stuff you have sprayed will not be any good.

[@SportSoulLife]

Mary Gray Its a safety feature. We do similarly on ships (the chain is attached to the bulkhead on a weak link). If you desperately need to get off the anchor, you can drive it all the way out and then break yourself free from the chain. The only reason why you should attach the end of the anchor chain to something is to prevent the chain from knotting itself up.

[@sixwacks]

I like how they are figuring it out as they go, looks fun and challenging

[@p.d.smithjr.3277]

Greetings. You two are actually the second crew I’ve seen do that while installing an anchor on utube. The first one broke skin and may have been worse! It was a British couple the first time. I’m fairly sure I won’t make the mistake, after seeing it twice. I’m a good visual learner. If I do forget, I hope I’m lucky enough to have a beautiful young lady around to kiss it. Thank you. Hope it heals well.

[@richardwallinger1683]

good job nice upgrade .. love the big brass roller .. RED Loctite, that is never going to shake loose . a decent hot air gun will assist when it ever needs servicing .

[@andrewbland3441]

Great video guys. Subscribed! HUGE WARNING for that rust remover -- yes its ace, but make sure you rinse it ALL OFF after, otherwise it'll eat into your components and make them permanently bleed rust (itll also mess up topcoats). Great stuff, your right, but rinse the hell out of it once your done

[@dstcb]

To have a home that feels alive That yearns for the flood of the tide A mare on the bit, collected up Craving the touch of the heel The helm is now your rein in hand The sheet your subtle spur The ocean is your open steppe Where you may wonder free Log and chart without a mark Awaiting the Captain's whim For now you have your tall ship And a star to steer her by. David I bought a 42ft sketch and a book on how to sail in March 1978 in the UK. Arrived in Barbados in December. Happy sailing.

[@jalspach9215]

Most younger folks simply haven't been around long enough working with power tools to have seen, experienced, what happens when a cut-off wheel pinch/binds and disintegrates in a blinding instant. A few years ago on a house remodel I had to remove the 4 1/2" grinder guard to fit in a tight space cutting an old beam bolt. The disc bound & shattered. A piece sliced through my thumb to the bone so fast I never saw it and felt like I had smashed it with a hammer. I later noticed small impact scratches on my safety glasses & I naturally NEVER cut/grind with my face aligned with the wheel. The scratches indicate all those spinning broken pieces explosively flew out in arcs in every direction! High speed & catastrophic failure at arms length or closer is no joke. And my bad for not wearing gloves. Stupid & careless! PPE's aren't just for geeks. And remember cruising sailors are frequently miles/days from medical help. So safety MUST be second nature and practiced. Even us old guys have our moments. Never stop learning/improving, ever. Be safe & Aloha to all here.

[@Garryck-1]

Amen to this!

[@LovingAtlanta]

👍💯On point! Great advice!💝

[@skr4207]

Happens

[@jalspach9215]

@zapp1919 Good God! Appears I inadvertently trolled up some poor soul with diminished capacity. You slept through grade school comprehension? "Blame"? WTF are you smoking? I've built boats from Thailand to the Bahamas, 30 years finish foreman on 6-year long mega-million estate jobs- Forbes top 100 kind. 25 years of that I never wrote a resume. I've worked on 8 of the top most expensive homes in Hawaii to date. In that time I've fired shit-tons of sassy youngsters with attitude just like you. So fuckwit, my admonishment was directed toward non-journeyman folks, usually young, doing sketchy work outside any OSHA guidelines. A real-world warning of potential catastrophic accidents they may not be aware of. Furthermore you seem to be unaware of the more nuanced side of OSHA regs. which DO tolerate guards being removed temporarily to allow for custom jigs & myriad obtuse or otherwise impossible cuts in varying materials/situations --- as long it can be shown & proven that contingent safety measures, "reasonable effort" was made to mitigate safety concerns. But ultimately - go fuck yourself.

[@abdulkkhan5095]

A fantastic sailing couple. Always have helpful , beautiful and great videos

[@martyspargur5281]

Hey, ship anchor chains aren't galvanised, and they don't have a problem with rust! Well, for one thing, ship anchor chain is not hi test high carbon, hammered anything. They are made from iron alloys which excell in resisting destructive oxidation. The Strength of this chain plays second fiddle to corrosion resistance. That is how it should always be. For the other reason they aren't too rusty, grab that can of cosmoline, and climb down into the chain locker, and start slopping it everywhere!

[@johnreardon3529]

Use Bar Keeper's Friend. A tip for those frugal cruisers. This was gleaned from another cruising channel but has been verified by me recently. It contains oxalic acid which is the active ingredient in Star Bright. This removes rust stains like magic at a fraction of the cost of the spray bottles. Admittedly this is best for surfaces that you can wipe. I make a pasted out of the powder, smear it on, let it sit and then either spray or wipe off. This will also clean teak. Sprinkle it on, mist the area, let it sit for a few minutes and then spray off. I follow with some dish wash solution to completely get rid of any dirt on the wood. The teak will look like new.

[@davejames6205]

It does make a difference where your steel comes from. It's a well known fact in the industry that Chinese steel is sub standard for use in the marine environment. S. Korean steel is a cost effective option to American or European steel. Also, you really should have a moused shackle between the swivel and anchor. It's preventative and eliminates human error, which we are all prone to. I enjoyed the video!

[@Frindleeguy]

Rust remover is usually just oxalic acid. Nothing too crazy. It also revitalizes uv-beaten wood (kind of). You can buy it powdered and just mix as needed. I learned this cleaning rust stains off concrete and houses for a lot of profit :)

[@charlescain7962]

As I always told my kids, " It'll feel better, as soon as it quits hurting".

[@bertbigballs]

I was always told "it won't hurt when the pains gone"

[@Packrat_Garage]

@ 8:27 - that is literally where the phrase 'cut and run' stems from. Ships and boats back to the mists of history would opt to just cut the ropes and lose a replaceable anchor and run if the ship was in danger. Just found your channel and have enjoyed many vids thus far, having dreams of getting out there 'some day' which will likely never come. Ride the wind as long as you can, for those of us who can't.

[@misterprofessor3511]

You should try some teflon washers between the roller and the bowsprit.

[@davidsimpson7231]

you might trust bring your chain down with ospho it's a pretty good rust and preventer and wash it with fresh water when you heave up if you have the water to to spare

[@philgray1023]

@@davidsimpson7231 Thanks for the tip David. I inherited a bottle of ospho with no instructions on my boat, had no idea what it was good for.

[@MikeRthe1]

What a waste of time

[@michaeldemarillac9992]

@@davidsimpson7231 Even better if you spray/soak it with vinegar and then dip chain in Ospho. It works twice as good.

[@SOLDOZER]

I sailed all over the Caribbean for 2 years with only 60 feet of 5/16 chain and 200 feet of nylon rode. Never had any issues with abrasion. Im not sold on the "all chain" rode unless a hurricane is coming. Nylon also easier to cut loose if your anchor gets snagged and you wont have all the issues you are having. Theres more advantages to mostly nylon rode than there is for all chain.

[@HHJung1976]

Hi, nearly 2 years by now, how looks the new chain now?

[@seanokane2627]

Unknown

[@petergarbutt9521]

No disrespect, I know you said you had no issues, but you only need to get your anchor trapped once. You can bouy it, but you will still need a driver, to release the anchor. Unfortunately you have attached your chain, to the wrong hole, on the anchor. If your anchor gets trapped, it cannot trip out, you will lose it. You should attach the end of the chain, to the hole at the front of the anchor, I just use a stainless steel shackle. Then run the chain along the anchor, while keeping it tight, attach the chain, underneath the hole that you originally used, this allows the chain to run over the roller, if you put it on the top, the anchor hits the roller, some people use a breakaway clip, I use, 3mm nylon twine 5-10 wraps, to secure, depending on the weight of your yacht. So if you get your anchor trapped, the nylon shears, then the anchor turns upside down, and trips out of trap.... Please read.... Tripping your anchor.. I bet you keep you hands out of the way know, ouch. Enjoy your films... Hope this old timers tip helps

[@SailingUma]

We've heard this theory before, and find it terrifying bad advice. Firstly, we can only anchor in about 20M of water, so if our anchor ever got stuck, we can easily freedive down and sort it. (seen in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pX7MkH17rL54nMk, we had help since by back was out) Secondly, on anchor, the wind shifts and the boat swings, sometimes the anchor is so deep in the mud or sand that it doesn't actually spin unless we put a huge amount of force on it. If that force ever broke the twin, the anchor would come undone and the boat would just drag. A MUCH better idea, is to simply add a float and trip line if you suspect you're anchoring in an area where the anchor might get caught in rocks.

[@petergarbutt9521]

@@SailingUma I have been a dive instructor, for over 35 years, as well as on the sea, for much, much longer, and find it terrifying, that you even consider, free diving to 20mts. As in your linked film, if the fishermen were not there, you would of had to do free dive with a bad back, to free anchor, that you, at the time, did not know what it was caught on. Only takes once, to trap your hand, or any other part of yourself. So as far as being bad advice, with NO DISRESPECT... PUT A TRIP LINE ON "YOUR ANCHER" EVERY TIME, you'll never ever know, when you need it. Enjoy your clear blue water, I can assure you, it's not like that all the time. Enjoy.

[@Maddie-Girl]

Buy chain from Italy not China I work for a company and we make products for the oil industry all our raw materials come from North America we have tried Chinese raw materials and they are junk to many impurities

[@jimanderson2518]

Sailing S/V Slipstream sounds like an idea ...so I want to buy stainless steel chain for the boat . Where are you recommending? I've priced 316 stainless at 1,890 for 250ft not sure where it was made though?

[@MrRourk]

No they are not the putting in the right impurities chrome and vanadium.

[@dprider02]

Jim Anderson For whatever it's worth, I once had a 3/8" stainless steel chain snap at anchor. This was on a 50" ketch that had been seeing daily use for about 5 years as a day charter boat for a hotel down in the Carib. We only spent about 2 hours at anchor each day. My understanding is that stainless is less ductile than galvanized, and tends to get a bit brittle over time. That certainly seems to be the case in my experience, and personally I would absolutely stick with a high quality galvanized chain.

[@coasterad]

Sailing S/V Slipstream the swivel looks like it is stainless which is brittle

[@martyspargur5281]

There Are types of stainless that are suitable for immersion, like 22-13-5's for example. Prop shafts and rod rigging made from similar alloys have stood the test of time. But i don't know of any anchor chain being made from these alloys, and when you think about it neither prop shafts nor rod rigging are ever welded, chain is. 316 is superior to 302/304, but i believe still subject to crevice corrosion. I have found that while BBB is best for yacht anchor chain, proof coil is an excellent choice as well. Thank you.

[@Kyleinasailing]

Good information here. I live in Germany and the quality/price ratio for nautical products is excellent. It just doesn't wash trying to save money on inferior quality nautical products as sea salt degrades everything, it's just a question of when. Arguably, your ground tackle is the most important gear on a boat. Well done.

[@kenvanportbc]

That looks like a Rocna anchor. We just bought one of those and I am reading their user manual which says, "We do not recommend attaching the fork of a swivel directly to the anchor shank. It is safer to put a few links of chain between the swivel and the anchor."

[@atozbikes]

Yup, that is a basic rigging principle. They don’t care. They just know ‘high or low satndard’

[@johnowen6951]

Enjoyed the video. Don't know if anyone else has mentioned it, but that rust stain remover has a high portion of acid in it. I don't reckon I'd be spraying it on rope as it will likely weaken it. Enjoy! John

[@MrCalifornia1234]

For some reason the whole time the anchor chain was going in your boat, I was thinking watch your hand. It was my fault. 😖

[@fisherjoshio]

Maintenance of an anchor chain is vital. Wash with fresh water, let it dry and paint with boiled linseed oil.

[@romeowhiskey1146]

"DAD" should start SELLING those bow rollers!

[@nomadequipment2177]

No kidding, he'd make a fortune 🙂⛵❤

[@JohnSwampthingRae]

@@nomadequipment2177 They would cost a fortune... looks like Aluminum-Nickel-Bronze...

[@mariofretz]

Yup looks like bronze, better than stainless, and will last for a long time, it might oxidize though unless it is another special alloy

[@HenauderTitzauf]

Just a tip, when you need great product to help with corrosion, product name Crossion X, I have used this stuff for over 25 years with no regrets. It too was invented for the oil fields both on land and off shore rigs. Great vid you showed. Keep on keeping on!

[@SailingUma]

O yea, love that stuff

[@todmills]

The Safety Data Sheet for Star Brite Rust Stain Remover states that it contains oxalic acid (8%) and ethylene glycol n-butyl ether (4.5%).

[@mikeredrugger]

Wonder if I could use it for etching blades....

[@Gottenhimfella]

Oxalic acid is present in many healthy food items and produced in the human body, and the other chemical is a major constituent of various whiteboard cleaners, liquid soaps, and cosmetics

[@SVImpavidus]

Amazing how little attention some folks pay to the first safety feature on a boat. Great to see you guys think a good anchor and chain are so important. The UK has some big tides, and strong currents its the first thing a skipper learns in our old stomping grounds . We are working our way south to the med and a good anchor and lots of good chain have saved us a fortune in marina fees. Never dragged, always slept sound with an oversized modern anchor and good chain with a snubber. Sail safe guys. Always good content in your vids. Ant & Cid xx

[@stephenjdixon1]

I must have missed something as to the old and new chain detailed specifications. I would add that zinc embrittlement can lead to serious strength problems in certain galvanised chains

[@mm5aho]

When you said "zinc embrittlement" Did you mean steel embrittlement during galvanizing? This is confined to high tensile chain and only where acid cleaning is used. Zinc doesn't cause embrittlement.

[@stephenjdixon1]

@@mm5aho thats what I said. Galvanising [zinc] can cause strength problems in certain chains. We call it [UK] zinc embrittlement

[@mm5aho]

@@stephenjdixon1 It's not galvanizing that causes or can cause embrittlement, its immersion in acid for a long time. Most galvanizing processes use acid, but there are others, and short immersion does not risk embrittlement in high tensile steels. The immersion in zinc doesn't cause embrittlement.

[@scroadload]

By the looks of it I believe your new chain has electroplated zinc coating, great for fresh water however for salt water you need "Hot dipped galvanized" chain if you want it to last. Also tie that bitter end with strong line attached to something very solid, if for some reason you throw that anchor overboard in deep water that chain and anchor will snap that little line like a shoe lace. Fair wind and following seas to you.

[@SOLDOZER]

No....it wont. You have no clue what you are talking about.

[@scroadload]

@@SOLDOZER "no...it won't" what??? 45 years in marine industry, what are your qualifications?

[@SOLDOZER]

@@scroadload "45 years in the marine industry"??? LOL Whats that mean? You have been a cashier at West Marine for 45 years? "Tie the bitter end to something very solid" LOL Thanks for the advice Capt Obvious. How about offer a real solution? You cant cause you have no experience.

[@briansoyk7012]

Ha! My favorite way to learn is with a little pain! Bet that’s the last time you’re holding the anchor like that! 😉

[@SH1974]

Ever heared about electrochemistry voltage? The new chain seems to be plated (Zinc? Nickel?) and the pulley seems to be brass. Add some salty water and see how the voltage EATS the plating of the chain within few years. If You want to buy an anchor chain that really lasts, choose one that's made of inoxydable stainless steel.

[@SailingUma]

We'd love a stainless chain, but they're not as strong and HT Galvanized, which means more weight on the bow. They also cost about 10x more and we currently don't have $2-3000 for an anchor chain. Galvanized chain only last 3-5yrs before it needs a re-coating and then maybe another 3 or 4 after before replacing.

[@mattgaetz5548]

3:45 grinding: You shouldn't use a cutting wheel like this without a grinder cover. A friend of mine did this and the cutting wheel broke lodging a chuck of the wheel in his brain. He's fucked for life. It's no joke.

[@lazydays7470]

For rust removal use a mild acid. The milder the slower the reaction. The rust gets converted back to elemental iron and is washed away when water cleanup is done. Navel Jelly works well - it contains the mild acid phosphoric acid, and is formulated in jelly form which helps it to stick on vertical surfaces while it does it's job. Strong acids work fast and well too but are dangerous to use, both from the standpoint of getting burns on your self or the surrounding surface that you don't want to damage if a spill occurs, and the runoff and clean up is more hazardous to humans, pets, and aquatic environment, plus the fumes are a hazard.

[@lnewbyliveca]

One word, Dan knows what they are growing up in Northern BC.......gloves.....

[@SmartLearningAI]

Link to chain and spec please?

[@zetetimm]

Nanaimo is not Northern BC...

[@wellDunn1]

Great video guys. I really enjoy all of your videos but I especially appreciate these “DIY” explanations. Thanks!

[@SailingTanker]

Check out RAN SAILING, they recently lost their anchor while heading into Hawaii. Tie down the anchor too......

[@Dvseire]

There is no need to tie it, because Dan just jams his hand in to keep it in place! :-) Oww! down down down down down! (edited out expletives) Ahhh!

[@SailingTanker]

LOL !!!

[@thomask5295]

I have a sort of "LOCK" on my bowsprit, that sort of "locks" my anchor in place when it's fully pulled up. I have to go forward and pull a little string up, in order to "unlock" the anchor and have it ready to drop. It prevents you from losing your anchor in rough seas if the pin or the bolt on the swivel fail. Too bad you can't post pictures in the comment section. BTW: All my chain is 40mm Stainless steel. (40 ft sailboat)

[@Garryck-1]

@@thomask5295 - You *can* post links to pictures though.. upload the pic to imgur and link to it.

[@onthebeaches]

Another great DIY from Uma and much of this info will go in my sailing notes. BTW...DAN! I'm sure others will comment as well but maybe a lot of us saying the same thing will help it sink in! I didn't see you with eye protection/guard/facemask because you had your head down in the frame. A smart guy like you knows the drill when using a grinder or "any" power tools. Please do it now so we don't have to hear about it later. Much like walking down the sidewalk, EVERYONE EVENTUALLY TRIPS! RIGHT?! It's inevitable that something will happen when using power tools. Just look at the mishaps with your hand and the anchor. SHIT HAPPENS MY FRIEND! Please put safety first!. Luv U MAAAAAAN! PEACE OUT! Ü

[@bud1971]

Keka's Dad rocks!

[@michaelwahl343]

we used to use old anchor chain as tow chain for trucks we would clean it up by dragging it down a gravel road a few times usually cleans them right up for muddy truck use

[@paulrehberg7215]

Just curious about the stainless swivel on galvanized chain. I would be concerned about galvanic corrosion eroding the closer links.

[@martyspargur5281]

That is not a corrosion hazard. A galvanised swivel on ss chain would be a much bigger problem.

I used a galvanized swivel, but a removable big link of stainless, on an all chain rode. The swivel must be MUCH bigger than the chain. Never gave any problems.

[@martyspargur5281]

BenjaminFranklin99 that works. And galvy swivels need to be oversize whenever possible. One link of ss won't hurt a galvanised swivel. But 800 pounds of ss chain will have a destructive corrosive effect on it, "galvanically".

[@alexberov6428]

Nice video, however I believe you need a shackle between the anchor and the chain link to avoid the swivel head possibly braking under lateral force.

[@SailingVoyager]

Great video guys! I think that swivel is a Kong. Love this format of videos

[@SailingABSea]

Ouch on the hand/anchor injury. Same thing happened to me a couple of months ago when we were installing our new Mantus anchor, except that I pierced the back of my hand with a stainless bolt that was sticking out of the bottom of the pulpit. My wife Aannsha felt bad about it too as she was the windlass operator.

[@garyheaton4791]

I have worked with chains my whole life, and I have to say that crap chain you replaced was the WORST chain I have EVER seen in my entire life!! Laugh!!! Good job changing it!! ;)

[@rushellrousseau9197]

Ha ! wait till you see mine!

[@jarodstrain8905]

That rust remover you like uses oxalic acid, which is an organic reactive compound. It takes rust off buy actually chemically breaking down the rust. It occurs in nature in algae and many plants. While it can be toxic to animals, it's more less harmless once dissolved into the environment.

[@OvertravelX]

If the rust remover smells like the old perm chemical from the hair salon, it's ammonia thioglycolate.

[@martyspargur5281]

acmeopinion factory ....which if atomised or sprayed is an extreme inhalation hazard.

[@martyspargur5281]

acmeopinion factory i was so relieved when she put on a bonafide respirator. I was highlighting the danger behind spraying any acid, in liquid form it's pretty innocuous, atomised it becomes very dangerous. Thanks

[@fmaz1952]

@Siward Beorn It's a 3M mask with the gas cartridges, which are different than the dust/particle cartridges. She is fine. More than that would be a full suit, which would be ridiculously overkill.

[@rogerdilley4359]

Kia Ora team. Why did you not go for all stainless chain. I have had the good quality galv chain rust out in five years so I’m thinking of replacing with stainless.

[@Jakfilm]

Is that 3/8 chain? Pretty big for that boat. Big Rocna too - 22 KG? I like that swivel better than most I have seen. Mantus makes a pretty sweet one.

[@MrPoppasmurf79]

Jakfilm he used it in Haiti during hurricane. Held up pretty good.

[@johntripp2028]

Looks like 5/16

[@southjerseysound7340]

MrPoppasmurf79 actually he used a mantis that's even bigger during the storm.

[@hooligan6a]

Yes, Mantus makes cheap Chinese anchors but a very good swivel.

[@tomhermens7698]

That swivel is ok but I wouldn't trust it as A is no good when bending B is stainless strong galvanised shackle is much stronger and when bending you have the space in the shackle. The pin needs to be secured with some stainless wire or be welded in so it never moves.

[@NikonFM2n]

Do you guys spray your chain with fresh water? Do you rinse it out sometime after you've pull it out into the locker? I'm not a boat owner but when I scruba I thoroughly rince every thing out with fresh water, even though everything is stainless.

[@sadiqmohamed681]

A brass chain roller is very posh. I don't think I have ever seen such a thing. That new swivel is very clever. Your doing a good job with the refit.

[@Garryck-1]

It's bronze, not brass. Brass isn't gonna last long in a marine environment. www.cruisingworld.com/how/down-brass-tacks

[@Gottenhimfella]

@@Garryck-1 I'm surprised they used bronze, because it will consume the zinc on the chain and more especially on the anchor shank where it rests on the roller. Seawater makes a conductive electrolyte to set up a zinc-copper "battery", resulting in electrolytic anodic corrosion. If it were me I'd stick will aluminium for the replacement roller, and bush it with tufnol so it stays free-running. The larger diameter where the chain contacts it will also help to prevent it from failing to rotate.

[@sfcretired1166]

Watched several of your videos. You young people look like you're having the time of your lives! I hope so. Makes me wish I was about forty years younger (Yes, I am that old!).

[@johntripp2028]

You need a real rope on the end of that chain. Attach it to a pad eye or u bolt in the locker. Yes it does have to hold the boat. You don't have your chain marked for length so if you are in deep water you could put all of it out without knowing it. Then that skinny little thread you have breaks and all of your brand new chain and anchor is gone, In the blink of an eye, Try about a hundred feet of 5/8ths rope for starters. Just think about it. Then do as you like. Then go sailing.

[@bradpendergraft4078]

John Tripp I agree!!

[@donaldgraham1197]

Totally agree. I have lost anchor (temporarily) when there was a clutch malfunction on the windlass and the chain roared out a high speed, wrenching itself off the bitter end (that's the rope). You need at least as much rope as will let the chain fall to the seabed and take the strain off the bitter end.

[@martyspargur5281]

Samson warp speed is a good choice. What if it let go in deep water? The dynamic load of the rope trying to stop 1/4 ton of chain would be somewhere north of 5 or 6 thousand pounds. I have seen it happen, no clutch or brake could stop it, the silence that follows is deafening. If the monkey's fist on the end won't fit through the hawse, and the rope is very strong, it may pop a hole in the deck. If the rope ends before the chain is out of reach, it is easier to bouy off the end by tying it to chain, than tying onto a piece of rope that is stretched tight and about to be cut. Ideal length for a bouy line is 6' less than the low tide water depth, so nobody messes with it but it's visible. Hit MOB on your gps to find it later. I have no criticism of "how" you do anything, we are All just trying to get through our lives, accidents and mistakes are part of it too. BTW the way that you weave the rope through the chain is a Legitimate "splice".

[@lazydays7470]

Definitely agree with all comments below, however the "rope" should be nylon, which is always used for anchor rode as it stretches, whereas dacron or line made for running rigging is designed not to stretch.

[@commodoresixfour7478]

@@lazydays7470 Thanks for the description. I never realized the difference. I my just knew to never use the term rope.

[@WindedVoyage]

My chain needs replacing and your episode confirmed it. Nice demo and explanation too. Cheers from Cape Verde Africa.

[@bobbybaldeagle702]

Thanks again for another awesome video.... You kids always seem to amuse me thank you.... Be blessed... BBE 👍 👍🤗 🤗

[@jonbeecroft4912]

hey guys good clip on chain a bit of anti seize between the ss bolt and the bronze roller will help heaps with corrosion and rolling

[@unclemuir]

Are you adding Just Cats shirts and hats to your swag shop? You are wearing swag that I have never seen Kent's cousin Brent on IMPI wearing.

[@johnreardon3529]

I would like to know where you bought your chain -- make, model, size. You mention made to higher standard. How did you tell? I also need new chain. Thanks

[@why7636]

I don’t own an anchor why am I watching this.

[@markfrick6244]

Nice job! Ever well explained, lots of great information. Just got my first windlass so this one was right on time hoping to be in the water before fall....

[@athanoskerensky6778]

How do you guys like that rocna? I just put the 72lbs one on my boat.

[@SailingUma]

Absolutely LOVE IT!!! Never failed us!

[@derrickjohnston7181]

cool I use bar tenders keeper maybe it's helper it works great..some elbow grease required.. chain dipped 2 or 3 times ..my best chain I found in fort Pierce hooked to a bruse anchor. it made it 4 yrs I go threw 3 feet a chain per chain per yr..

[@williamSailingWindDragon]

there is a beach near me that you can drive on. I saw a guy dragging a chain behind his truck, found out he was "cleaning" the rust off it :-)

[@stevenlovett8436]

William Munger tumbling it in a drum with pebble stone sounds cheaper and less dangerous than dragging it down a beach.

[@fishpest2039]

we drive down a bithumen road to clean our chain, we also cook it in old sump oil, that stops the rusting

[@wile.coyote8466]

@@stevenlovett8436 Tumbling rusty chain in a cement mixer drum with stones also works, but wears out the mixer motor!

[@labrat3305]

Ouch imagine get rusty chunks in your foot whilst going a nice walk

[@dfoster210]

Great video. How is everything ( chain and swivel ) holding up 3 years later?

[@SailingUma]

Great! Much better than our fist chain.

[@soving]

There is an amazing pic circulating on the web of a guy who has half of a grinder cut-off disc embedded in his cheek / face...no guard, no facemask...it happens when you least expect it. Sorry to be a safety Sally :)

[@ronusa1976]

soving your good on the call by me. I was going to say something too. Grinders are dangerous! Its spinning at 10,000 RPM, great tool must have to do the job. Safety glass must be used all the time at the least and a face shield highly recommended. For 20 years I wore a leather apron to protect myself from grinders. Loose clothing, long hair and fires are also real dangers. Looks like the grinding wheel is to large and the guard was removed. Using the wrong wheel at 10,000 RPM may cause the grinding wheel to come apart. Grinding wheels do have RPM ratings. kzbin.info/www/bejne/m3uymn6ri8qLd5I

[@phygital1]

That almost happened to me. I was grinding off a piece of metal and the disk chipped and the piece brushed the corner of my eyelash. I now wear a full face mask.

[@kdzidoc]

I've pulled metal out of eyes for 20 years (eye doctor), about 1-2 a week.... 90% is from grinders. I've seen it go through the eye... Wear full protection!!!!!

[@geezergamers7101]

I am with the eye doctor, I am an ER doc, we use an opthalmic burr several times a week to 'dremel' bits of metal embedded in cornea. We also have pulled large chunks of grinder and cut off wheels out of chests, armpits, and even necks. I also treat severe chemical burns from "rust remover" that ends up being hydroflouric acid. Love the channel, but stay safe so we can watch more.

[@dexter2433]

ye i know a maintenance man that lost his left eye from a exploding grinding wheel were i used to work ...i were a shield even at home when using a grinder

[@Sabactus]

The rust remover is oxalic acid. Oxalic acid's main applications include cleaning or bleaching, especially for the removal of rust (iron complexing agent). Its utility in rust removal agents is due to its forming a stable, water-soluble salt with ferric iron, ferrioxalate ion.

[@pvdneste]

try ataching a short length of chain (perhaps 5 chainlinks) with a shackle to the anhor and then the swivel to this short piece of chain and the rest of the chain. It would solve any possible future problems of a bent swivel. Sometimes your boat swings around your anchor and thus the chain 'knots' on the anchor stock. using a few chainlinks between anchor and swivel negates any trouble.

[@allenschmitz9644]

void the swivel warrentie.

[@pvdneste]

allen schmitz How do you mean?

[@Stenn333]

I spent some decades in the manufacturing field....one of our MFG engineers was telling me about the famous tool company he worked for, designing engines "to their specifications," then management sent the design to China for manufacture. This company, of course, tested the first few, found them correct, with proper, spec'd materials...and started shipping. They then started having return after return and warranty claims. Later materials testing found the Chinese had deliberately used substandard materials AFTER the first few were tested and thought they'd get away with it. Funny how the Japanese are SO close, and WROTE THE BOOK on QUALITY....yet their neighbors haven't learned a lesson, about Quality OR Honor. 🥺 I'll be looking for that Italian chain a poster here mentions !

[@AGKRex]

Rust remover that works is usually hydrochloric acid...

[@Roucasson]

HCl is too strong... citric acid (yes, the one in lime juice) is perfect.

[@wmragsdale]

HCL can can be used just at a lower %. Your can also HF acid but at a super lower concentration.

[@AGKRex]

You clearly don't have well water LOL. I use a stronger rust remover thanks to my crappy well water.

[@FrankLadd]

Could be oxalic acid too. Great for rust not too harmful to other things.

[@martyspargur5281]

Frank Ladd oxalyic acid is exactly correct.

[@TheBowen747]

man.. i dont know if you got the room but a roller furring chain system has a good ring to it is it possible to as the anchor comes up also have a motor drive system to roll up the chain on a spool ... it will drip drying rather then sitting in water.. and side to side moting should notn effect it.. at least .. i never seen it in a industrial crane ever fail.. two motors on the same reverse polarity switch .. or am im just lost in space here..lol

[@Destinoffshorefishing]

That is the best rust remover everrrrrrrrr but don’t breathe it

[@RRaucina]

My chain locker would have 100' of nylon rope in the bottom of it for backup, and not have been sprayed with oxalic acid. Said locker would be a poly drum with a $10 pump up hand sprayer with emulsified oil to be sprayed on the chain when in storage. Think cutting fluids, little oil, more soap and water, but it sticks and won't contaminate the ocean waters, as it is already water soluble. Take that old chain for a bumper pull on a gravel road or a sand beach/desert. Will look like new, but a size smaller. Use it on land for something.

[@victimovtalent6036]

Why not use stainless steel chain?

[@ralphdyson7926]

Have you seen the price?

[@victimovtalent6036]

@@ralphdyson7926 expensive?

[@ralphdyson7926]

Asep Saepudin Oh yes and usually not especially good. Unless you have seriously deep pockets the chain options will be much more brittle than heavy galvanised mild steel. My near neighbour, sat next to me, who sells this stuff, says he has never in 19 years knowingly sold a stainless steal anchor chain.

[@bdjm8595]

Excellent episode, really enjoy the "boat work" episodes that are missing from channels that have expensive new boats!!! That is a really beautiful piece of machine work your Dad did for you Kika!! Dan, the only thing different I might have done is add some shim washers between the swivel and the anchor to keep things from being sloppy and getting jammed.

[@arthur4818]

You are the second person on KZbin I have see get their hand crushed installing a new anchor the same way you did

[@onthebeaches]

You think that would be a lesson to take part in other safety measures like wearing a face guard while grinding! UGH!

[@joer8854]

I used to hear, "God that was stupid why did I do that!" around the marina all the time for that same reason. One guy had a custom piece made for the front of the boat at great expense just so it had a space for a hand.

[@sailingbrewer]

How's the new Chinese chain holding up? I'm looking at but new chain this year and was curious if it was a good pick.

[@martyspargur5281]

The chain is rusting because it is Hi Test. Very common mistake that people everywhere make. When you are planning to buy anchor chain, look for the "roundest" links (BBB), and the Lowest carbon content (weakest strength). There is Nothing substandard or wrong with your Hi-Test chain. It, however is the worst choice for salt water, that is if you don't count ss. There is Nothing wrong with your galvanizing, it's the carbon content of the metal that the chain itself is made of that makes it inappropriate. Think "iron" not hammered hi carboon steel. I would never recommend ss, the alloys available are still 18-8 and cannot be deprived of oxygen the way anchor chain is (under water). This will happen again, because it is high carbon steel. Thank You I am Not criticizing here. But the reasons for what i'm saying are simple facts. This problem has nothing to do with being made in China, Pakistan, or anywhere. It is either made to spec or it isn't. If it isn't, it will not make it to market.

[@EleanorPeterson]

Sense. Thank you.

[@helloyou5781]

Beat me to the punch. Sounds like someone took a metallurgy class at some point in his life.

[@erniew5805]

salt water isn't good for stainless either

[@FrancoisLabelle-yf8tj]

Hot dip galvanized very seldom use high carbon content steel since the high hardness temper is rendered mild due to 900 degrees molten zink dipping...

[@adrianroggero6702]

I’m wondering why chain is used for the whole length from boat to anchor? Mine just has 10 metres of chain then the rest is silver staple rope. Saves on weight.

[@SailingUma]

When it comes to anchoring, wight is everything. More the better. Also, all chain prevents chafing on rocks and coral.

[@halgodwin842]

Why not paint a red slash at 5 fathoms, 2 red slashes at 10 and so on. That way you'll know how much chain you have out at glance!

[@unclemuir]

Did you not see the zip ties?

[@edrussell7960]

Most people who don't paint their chain in increments it is because the paint flakes off after a bit.

[@MichaelBuck]

I was saying the same thing, MARK THAT CHAIN...unless they have a chain counter, which I didn't see. Although, I did see some plastic zip ties they had attached, which looked like markers of sorts, so maybe they didn't want the paint chipping off.

[@rayrayy5444]

A friend of mine who I sailed with was in the market for some new chain…. One of his friends was stewardis…She bought the chain in the U.K….and bought it back to Canada…The Canadain customs had some questions about the chain….She told them she was to S&M…The guy laughed and let her go..Cheers.

[@lkm5462]

You didn’t paint or whatever for the lengths of the. Chain. Why?

[@jamesbh101]

They had zip ties marking length.

[@solarappointments2864]

I LOVE the way you can still have Air Conditioning in your boat lol. Straight through the bow hatch!