Don't Listen to Creality! K1 Series Unicorn Nozzle Swap.

Changing a nozzle is easy once you understand the correct way to do it. We want to make sure that we always remove the nozzle when the hot end is heated. This is the best way to avoid damaging either your nozzle or your 3D printer. In this video, we go over the simple steps to swapping out the Creality Unicorn Nozzle.
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[@zerodotcmd]

Important! It is a good idea to double-check your Z offset after performing a nozzle swap. The slight variance between nozzles can be enough to damage your bed if left unchecked. Also if you would like to try out the Slice Plastic Repellent, I have an Amazon Affiliate link listed below. Note that this repellent needs to be reapplied after a few print cycles. Amazon Affiliate - Slice Plastic Repellent - amzn.to/4eGRbW2

[@jefftiesing4656]

There's a copper based antiseize that has good thermal conductivity that can be used in place of grease. We use it all the time in injection molding. I've been using it a few months after thermal paste hardened and ruined a hotend.

[@berlinberlin4246]

Can you please post the name of the antiseize?

[@thev-eh]

This is amazing advice, and it works for almost every 3d printer! I also use a 3d printed nozzle torque wrench to ensure that the nozzle is tight but not overly tight.

[@SkinnyTrini04]

Imagine being new to 3D printing, followed Creality's video and the nozzle broke? I love this video because there's no disassembling anything.

[@zerodotcmd]

Unfortunately, I've seen a few posts where users did exactly that on the first day of owning their printers. It really sucks.

[@GerardoNQ]

Can you talk about the extruder? I've had many problems with the extruder on the K1 Max, including under-extrusion and clogs. I disassembled the extruder so many times that I ended up damaging one of the motor cables, which I couldn't repair

[@zerodotcmd]

I do plan on talking about the extruder. There are a few options out there for this.

[@NotDoingThisToday]

Another fantastic video! Great information that's helping so many users. Keep up the awesome work!

[@zerodotcmd]

Thanks! I'm just hoping this video saves a few people from damaging their printers.

[@kapollo]

Shouldn't you put a bit of thermal compound on that upper copper part? Btw I actually broke mine the very same way unscrewing cold, and basically turned to microswiss

[@zerodotcmd]

No, you don't have to. However, some users do. It is a matter of preference. It can also depend on the printer, but for the K1, it's not required.

[@zerodotcmd]

MicroSwiss makes a great replacement option! I'll be doing a video on this soon!

[@kapollo]

@@zerodotcmd hadn't had any issues for like 3 month some weeks really intensive printing

[@zerodotcmd]

@@kapollo That's awesome. It's great when a good design works well.

[@thev-eh]

​@@zerodotcmdI have the flowtech on my K1M and it's been great.

[@verrilltp]

I will add that I have the Microswiss, Triangle Labs, and the Unicorn hotends for my K1c. By far I prefer the Triangle Labs hotend. Much higher flow rate ability, and being able to use MK8 nozzles is far cheaper.

[@zerodotcmd]

It's also nice that Triangle Labs is half the price. I will say I really do like the Micro Swiss, though.

[@3d1e00]

You tried just a normal ptfe spray? Think WD40 do them?

[@zerodotcmd]

No I haven't. Never had a need to yet.

[@3d1e00]

@@zerodotcmd I will try and remember to let you know how it goes. Do you see any visible change in the application after you heat treat it?

[@zerodotcmd]

@@3d1e00 No I haven't noticed any changes. The grease just tends to bake itself out. Which is a good thing.

[@raptorheli2]

does the k1c use 20t pulleys? I've got original k1 but I've changed to unicorn, new version of extruder and debating putting 20t on now......

[@zerodotcmd]

Yes, the K1C upgraded to the smaller pulleys. However, I would argue that if anyone is going to modify their printer to upgrade the pulleys, they might as well upgrade to the linear system at the same time.

[@raptorheli2]

@@zerodotcmd I've not seen a linear system. I'm a casual user of the printer for small one off projects. I've no real complaints with the k1 as is now tbh.

[@zerodotcmd]

@raptorheli2 The pulley upgrade ends up being far more in-depth than users initially realize, to the point where you might as well upgrade all the way to linear. However, I will say that if you are a casual user, I recommend staying away from the heavier mods, especially if you are mostly happy with your printer.

[@raptorheli2]

@@zerodotcmd it is usually mechanical things I'm making in cad I print out, anything that helps with accuracy is welcome. Although I've no big complaints there. Let me put it this way, I have never printed a benchy in my life nor any trinket parts.

[@zerodotcmd]

@raptorheli2 I got into printing for this exact reason! I wanted to be able to print my own designs for tech and smart home items. I'm not interested in printing toys or trinkets, and I absolutely despise Benchys.

[@Camaro45th]

You gotta print some 270° for your machine. You don’t have to worry about the glass being in your way.

[@zerodotcmd]

That's probably a good idea!

[@3DATHENS-qi1tu]

nice video !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@СтасЛуканев]

Nice advice, thanks! I'm going to upgrade my K1C with glass bed as in one of yours videos. And also going to convert to linear rails. By the way, have you heard of this upgrade? It's called "Bootycalljones k1 linear conversion". Some peple on you tube says it's worth the effort

[@zerodotcmd]

Awesome best of luck with the upgrade! I've checked into the Linear Conversion a bit. I currently do not have an opinion on it since I would need to spend time with the Conversion. I know a lot of people love it though.

[@Shapeshiftyr]

I did it, 1010% worth it