Don't Make This COSTLY Mistake!

Disclaimer: I am only comparing FasTrack to only what type of track I have experience with. I am also not saying that Tubular track is the superior track for O scale train collectors. I am simply stating my experiences with FasTrack and giving my advice to beginner O scale enthusiasts. This is strictly my opinion. Enjoy the video!
#youtubevideo #samsogaugetrains

[@rj.trains]

Embrace tradition, reject modernity

[@geodot595]

rj has a great fastrack layout but i think he will change when he builds a new one. i have realtrax and fastrack and am thinking of menards when u rebuild. i found realtrax connectors bend out of shape easily, and fastrack im not sure of yet. look at dagryfinn menard layout as what can be done.

[@deepsleep7822]

@rj: that’s right. Change is bad. 😊

[@johnbeck3270]

Personal opinion, I think Lionel made a big mistake by discontinuing their tubular rail system. I’m kind of a “purist” when it comes to running my O/27 trains, they just belong on tubular track! I’m glad to see Menards “picking up the slack” in the O gauge market. I do hope, eventually, they may offer O/27 tubular track as well as the O gauge they offer now.

[@jenniferwhitewolf3784]

Also.... Keep an eye out for K-Line track as well. They made some very high quality traditional tubular track and switches. The Menards is great too, glad it is available.

[@johnbeck3270]

I think Menards only produces “0” gauge track at this time. I have a “ton” of Lionel 0-27 equipment and would like to be able to add more track without replacing all I already have. Kline made a lot of 0-27 track and switches until they were bought out and shut down by Lionel. I don’t think I could ever make the move to Lionel’s plastic road bed track. Lionel belongs on tubular rail.@@jenniferwhitewolf3784

[@cathrynm]

My father's layout has been tubular for 20+ years now. I think tubular is immortal.

[@mattkramer4132]

I've been in O gauge since 1972 and have used both tubular and FasTrack. Tubular is nice, you can cut it to fit, easy to solder wires to and throw a lockon anywhere you want. But... On my latest layout I decided to go with FasTrack for the first time. I like it just a tad bit more. I like not having to deal with finicky track pins, the integrated roadbed is nice, and smaller switch machines compared to postwar. I'm only running a 4x8 and have no plans to remove the track once it's down. I'm using newer batches of FasTrack and the conductivity is better than when I had tubular. Not a single voltage dropout in any spots. My old leftover tubular goes under the Christmas tree. lol

[@cameroneverhart6443]

The fastrack plug and play accessories is so annoying on fastrack because it requires you to use that one small straight section to plug in. If you have more than one accessory you have to dish out even more money to buy another piece to plug it into or convert it somehow...

[@davidglemboski258]

I have a layout using several hundred feet of FastTrack and I have had absolutely no problems with it on any of the six tracks that I run.

[@asdfdsa45]

I've never had any problems with Fastrack either. On larger payouts, I had problems with tubular track losing power at the far end and I had to run wires directly to it and then every 6' to 8' apart. That was one thing I liked about the newer track systems and that was connectivity, they're just better. I also like the more realistic rail. I am a 3-rail modeler but I now, after experimenting with function and appearance, use Atlas code 148 rail 2-rail flex track with a code 100 blackened rail down the middle or I hand lay my rails on bass wood ties, spiking down code 148 rails (nickel silver on flat runs and steel rails on inclines [for magnetraction locos]). The flat head of the code 148 rail gives a postwar FM even more grip surface with the wheel and wow!! Does it pull! My 1937 700e as well as my two prewar 763e locos love it as well. Some of the tinplate freight cars will actually operate on the scale rails but some won't as their flanges are too big. Non of the tinplate will go through a scale turnout (switch) but postwar rollingstock does so beautifully. MPC rolling stock runs beautifully on these scale rails but not so well in the turnouts due to the frog setting, I have to modify them a bit. There is something about hand laying your track that I never knew I missed when putting down sectional track.

[@imlovingtrains]

Same

[@thavvolf9157]

I started on tubular track then the shorts started to occur so I decided to move to fast track and found it very reliable, the only thing I’ve done is get track clubs to keep the sections together.

[@UncleMattstrains]

I have over 300 hundred running feet and I actually just started wiring mine up in multiple spots my layout is 20 rough by 12 on the main table and I ran it for almost a year with one hotspot I Love Lionel FasTrack

[@UncleMattstrains]

And I've run some tubular back in the day and I liked it it was okay the problem is I run really large articulating trains so everything now is on a 72 or bigger

[@TwistedMacGyversTrains]

I have used every type of track systems. They all have one thing in common, you have to make sure you have a smooth tight transition from track to track. Make sure your sections are tightly closed without any gaps. Run your fingers along the sections and make sure it’s smooth in between your sections of track. Please a level on top of your rails and make sure you don’t have any dips or high spots. Doing this will ensure trouble free train operation. My favorite is Atlas O gauge tracks & original postwar tubular track. Thank you for making this video Sam. I really enjoyed it. 😊 Frank

[@jackcarvis3668]

Thanks You for sharing your experience with fastrack . I was just considering buying some now I'm gonna stick with the tubular

[@JDubya96]

Excellent advice, Sam. Thank you for sharing what you’ve learned to help further educate those of us new to the hobby. You are helping us to save money and minimize frustrations! We appreciate you!

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

Of course! I sacrifice my money and time to keep you from making the same mistakes! 🫡

[@MarkWick]

When I started getting back into American Flyer S gauge, I bought the Lionel American FasTrack to display the first couple of cars I bought. When I build my layout, I incorporated that FasTrack into the layout which was built using the original American Flyer track produced by the A.C. Gilbert company. I added ties made from strips of balsa wood, over cardboard, then ballasted with beach sand. It all looked very realistic, except for the FasTrack section. After a few months, trains started slowing way down on the 40 inch section of FasTrack. I had to dismantle that layout when I moved and I have used only the original Gilbert track on the new layout. I do use that strip of FasTrack for my test track, but will never buy any more. The Gilbert product is readily available, much less expensive, and a superior product, even at at least 60 years old.

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

It’s interesting the S Gauge track didn’t work out either. I’m sorry to hear. Thank you for sharing!

[@sdr868]

I only have tubular track from Menards and my Santa fe locomotive and rolling stock ( all from Menards) never derails.

[@johnandrus3901]

Good video and review. I collect and run post-war and MPC. FasTrack is non-magnetic and doesn't work with MagneTraction. It also is less forgiving of miss-alignment. On tubular track, you can make adjustments because you can flex it to make it fit. You can also add ballast and make it look fairly realistic. For those who like FasTrack, that 's fine, but I'd rather have my trains run smoothly on the track that they were designed for.

[@ozarkmidlandsouthernrailway]

Hi, Sam, good morning. Actually, I enjoy using FasTrack on my layout. When I started building the OM&S it was a readily available track system that went down easily and has served me well to date. Now one of the things I did as I was laying it was to solder jumpers between the different track pieces and then soldered jumper wires to the center and outside rails about every ten track sections or so. The jumper wires are attached to bus wires underneath the layout. This has proven to be pretty rock solid providing good electrical continuity throughout the railroad. I understand that this method is useful and works well because the track is screwed down to the layout table. I have had minimal problems with the remote switches. I did have to replace one because while working on the layout I fell backwards and landed hard on it bending the track pieces (switch blades) and was not ever able to make it work reliably afterwords. A second remote switch seemed to gradually begin to not function reliably with some of my locomotives after a year or so, that I simply credited to hard use. It seemed at least one of the switch blades/points became misaligned and again I chose to replace the switch. I've had no problems with the manual switches that I can think of. Tubular track is good stuff and is what I ran my trains on for many years. With all of that said if I were building a 3-rail railroad today with realism as a primary goal and wanted to go to the trouble of creating the most realistic looking track possible, I would not choose a track system with a built-in roadbed. I believe I would go with Atlas O track and either Atlas O or Ross switches. I enjoyed your video and found your candid discussion about your experiences with FasTrack very interesting. Bill B.

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

I’m glad you have had success with Fastrack! I wish I had the same. I wish I could of hot wired my track at the time but it simply wasn’t possible at the time. I was pretty much fed up with Fastrack by the time I built my current layout. I still have my Fastrack for emergencies but I see myself using tubular for a long while. I’ve got some unopened automatic tubular 0-72 switches waiting to be used.

[@modelrailpreservation]

I loan out classic trains from the 1930s-1950s to local businesses during the Christmas season for use in their store windows. I use tubular track exclusively. Actually, what I mostly use, is Marx O-27 and O-34. Notice with Marx track the ties are offset from the ends of the sections more? Adding more ties, for a total of 7 ties on O-27, and 9 ties on O-34 gives a nice, even tie spacing when track is put together. It looks more realistic, without losing its tinplate charm. That and I found earlier Marx O-27 switches, the sheet metal base type, can be made to work reliably at as little as four volts AC. Reliably means, in my testing, switch is thrown a hundred times, fifty curve, fifty straight, and fully throws every time.

[@steverontti4199]

One thing that has helped with the electrical continuity with taking up and reassembling fastrack is to put a little dab of dielectric grease on each of the connecting pins/blades.

[@sawilson56]

People's success with fastrack varies. Generally, there are 2 rules to it: 1: The connection joints will bend and break. Even if you don't see it, every time you connect and take it apart, you're wearing down the connectors. This helps influence... 2: The electrical connections suck. Part of that is from the above mentioned, and part of it is just the nature of the design You don't need to hot wire every piece of track, but every 4-6 pieces probably. I do this anyways on my Atlas O layout, just to minimize connectivity issues

[@msomething3579]

My trains were boxed for about 25 years and in those years my boxes of tubular track disappeared so I had to start over. I picked up some Fastrak to get things going and set things up on the floor. Being a carpet runner the Fastrak works fine since it provides some protection from lint. I do like the remote switches which allowed me to easily operate a mainline loop to loop. Only time I had any connection problems was the ones I caused my self by getting impatient when pulling apart the track to try a different configuration, however that was minor issue since with the distances I run there have to be several power feeds to prevent voltage drop. As for getting the pieces separated that is now easy, I took a couple of screwdrivers and sharpened the ends. Then both are gently wedged between the track pieces and turned together which safely separates the sections with damage. Do NOT twist the track and everything will be fine. I don't have any intention of building a permanent "O-gauge" layout but if I did then Atlas makes a nice track, even available in stainless steel.

[@fredashay]

IMO, FasTrack is perfectly fine if you're building a permanent layout with all new track that hasn't been connected and disconnected again and again, and you want your layout to look realistic. Tubular track is better if you repeatedly connect and disconnect your track because it's more rugged, and the connecting pins are more thick and substantial and can stand up better to constant plugging and unplugging track sections, and you don't care about realism or appearance. When I was a kid, my first train set came with tubular track, and it lasted for years and years being set up on the floor of my room and taken apart again and again and again, and never had an electrical problem or operational problem. As an adult, I have a FasTrak "layout" running around the perimeter of my living room (I'm a MGTOW introvert who lives alone, lol), and I rarely modify it, and it has never given me a problem either. Just my opinion 🙂

[@Shipwright1918]

Biggest detractor for FasTrack when I was getting started was price and it only goes down to O-31. My train room is quite small, and to make the track plan I wanted work required O-27 curves throughout. O-27 tubular was cheaper new old stock, you can cut it to the length you need, and you can DIY your own insulated track to trigger trackside accessories instead of having to buy more pricey bits from Lionel to do the same job. The old ways are the best ways sometimes.

[@johnbeck3270]

Lionel “0” gauge “train set” curved track segments were 31” diameter. You could run your 0-27 trains on 0 gauge track, but you couldn’t run your 0 gauge trains on 0-27 track. I think it had to due with train size (0 gauge trains were slightly larger than the 0-27 trains) and possibly flange depth. If you have a chance, set an 0 gauge Lionel next to an 0-27 you’ll definitely see that the 0-27 is quite undersized compared to the 0 gauge.

[@Shipwright1918]

Lionel also offered O-27 to compete with American Flyer and Marx, as well as offer a "budget" line of trains. In most cases, most trains that will run on O-31 curves will navigate O-27 just fine, and many O-27 locomotives are identical to their O counterparts aside from their number. Most troubles tend to come from locos or cars being so long that they can't clear the switch housings, though you can always remove those or modify the loco or car. Until the advent of scale/Legacy, all Lionel trains were undersized, some scale ones still are, but it was to a practical purpose to allow layouts in an ordinary household room, as true to scale curves would mean you'd need an aircraft hangar to house your layout. I'm pretty happy with my O-27, most of my equipment is semi-scale so it works just fine. 4-8-4's, 2-8-4's, and a Challenger are plenty big enough for my purposes.

[@junkvideoman8538]

I did the same thing. Collected a bunch of fast track just for it now to sit in boxes. I use Menards track now, and it’s great.

[@TooManyHobbiesJeremy]

Thank you for sharing your experience & providing us with examples so we can make up our own minds.

[@YourLocalRailfan]

Good to know when I start my o gauge layout!

[@josephvodola8286]

I love tubular track and the nostalgia behind Lionel trains. They are toy trains so yes you don't need roadbed . Like you said the beauty of toy trains is everyone's layout is personal to them. Like someone once told me we don't play with trains we run trains. I also learned over the years to connect the tubular track tight taking my time thus eliminating a lot of electrical issues.

[@joeystrains.9316]

Excellent video Sam, you're a natural. Tubular is very dependable and can be restored. The challenge is to make it look good on the layout with extra ties.

[@domrad90]

I have a loop layout around my train room, above the doors and windows and it’s all tube track. One of the nice things is that you can cut and even carefully bend track when necessary to meet the exact space requirements of the room. After all, when the track gets to the corner, I’m not going to extend the house or have the track run 3 inches from the wall. I do run a feed wire to a couple of places in the layout to keep the current even to all sections.

[@99thObsidian]

I started with tubular track which came with my kids first Lionel. Since then I've designed and built layouts with MTH Realtrax (solid & hollow), FasTrack, and now Atlas O. Of the 4 systems I prefer Atlas for its prototypical look, variety of curves and switches and simple connectors. Yes Atlas is expensive but because its durable, I got a lot of mine used which cost less. I was not a fan of FasTracks connectors, built in roadbed and tubular looking rails (center not blacked out).

[@RailpaxScott]

I have had the same experience with Fast Track. I am gradually ripping it out and going traditional. Great advice here, everyone should listen.

[@genemanno1533]

You pointed out an issue I always said “to keep it simple”. The least complicated system is almost always the best choice. Nothing is simpler than the old tubular track design. Both “O” & 027 are good choices. I selected 027 as it is lower cost and a bit lower profile height.

[@joecarlson6428]

I am constructing a 4x8 layout. I have a number of postwar operating cars and accessories. I am using tubular track and modem versions of the O22 switches. I have some postwar train sets from 1948, 1950, and 1957. Transformer is a MTH Z400. C/C is a MTH DCS explorer and a Lionel TMCC cab 1 set. I have at present 6 electrically isolated blocks so I can run conventional locomotives and accessories.

[@rolandmetzner8177]

I to came the same conclusion to use tubular track. to me its much easier to work with. Good advice.

[@HeliMX365]

Just bought my first O scale yesterday and it came with fast track, i plan on doing a celing mounted layout around my livingroom and kitchen, and the price of fasttrack as compared to tubular is huge. Thank you for your video

[@TrainBandit]

I love tubular track for so many reasons including the fact that its very unrealistic. When ever i see tubular track i smile lol! My only problem is that you cant run it on carpet. Do you have any ideas?

[@EngineerEd-xt2qu]

I used tubular track when I was a kid and I had problems with the connectivity of the track. I’ve have fast track and I don’t have that problem any more.

[@wordenentertainment1997]

I too made this mistake at first. I had used Fastrack on my first O gauge layout. I used it for my outer 2 mainline loops, while using my O27 tubular on the inner loops. Needless to say I had issues mainly with the sounds vibrating due to the hollow roadbed, but also due to the fact I didn't use any sound deadening material. I later bought a huge lot of original Lionel postwar tubular track and I was so much happier. As a bonus, the lot also came with a large bag of wooden ties to go with the track and it makes the tubular look so much more realistic, yet retaining the classic postwar look that I like. I highly recommend finding some extra ties, you'll be amazed and also add ballast for more realism.

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

Good suggestions! I’ll have to implement that on my next layout!

[@BillThomas-i6i]

I have replaced much of my FasTrack with Menards tubular track, especially in hard to reach(clean) areas. Tubular track seems to conduct current better and doesn’t need to be cleaned as often. The Menards transition track works very well to add tubular track to FasTrack.

[@mister_fjk1972]

I got into O-scale trains back in the early 2000's because of MTH's broader and more affordable product offerings. So I used their breakthrough MTH RealTrax (with MTH DCS) on my first layout (6' X 19') and it was very robust -- in fact, more rugged and reliable than FasTrack. Never had any connectivity issues with my RealTrax after following MTH's DCS best-practice set-up instructions. Lionel's FasTrack was their response to the MTH RealTrax offering and I never was impressed with it. For my next larger layout, my current concern is that the RealTrax may be harder to get and so I am prepared to use tubular track (enhanced with homemade wood ties) or perhaps other options -- except for FasTrack. Regarding your tubular track, you may find that making your own ties (made from 1/4" X 1/4" basswood strips, 2 1/4" long, stained black) can be a fun activity to enhance the tubular track's appearance - it looks pretty good. Best of luck and have fun!

[@StephenKoferl]

Great video pointing out other options

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

Thank you Steve!

[@ELWtrains]

I have had to replace or fix my fast rack a few times, I like it but I don’t think it’s dependable, I’m not sure what other track to go with? Seems like fastrack is about the cheapest option other than tubler track?

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

Tubular track is the best option price wise and durability wise in my opinion.

[@escape150]

I’ve never had any problems with Fastrack. I love it!! I also use Atlas O track. I don’t like the looks of tubular track

[@FrankMuratore-v9q]

Yes had same experience with fastrack.. Probably because I also did carpet x mas layouts with it for several years.. Then I always had to wire thru the switches even when new.. Now for the Christmas round the living room set up.. I resorted back to Super O.. Cleaned it all up.. and bought 072 curves.. Work 200 % better with electric conductivity.. Looks absolutely fantastic.. Yea, a few bus bars need to be pushed down once in a while.. but that is due to movement on carpet more than anything.. Use some gargraves switches with the Super O.. but might try and use Atlas o in future..with some modifications..

[@bernardconeghen]

the problem is the middle rail pins you have to bend them the right way to get better contact once done they start running better had this issue and remembered the fix and things are better but its what you like and prefer enjoy

[@t-4-too]

I find FasTrack convenient for static displays of my old Marx tinplate trains. It looks decent on the shelf and is easy to clean.

[@Pinkystrainsandmore]

When I first started out about 6 years ago. I had old Lionel tubular track. Worked find. I got fast track with a set or two and didn’t like how it was plastic and noisy! Menards was a game changer. Most of my track is from Menards! I even ballast my tubular track and put railroad ties underneath!

[@Sparks2030]

I think you're right. It was easier to use tubular track than fast track. I'm thinking next year to start switching to tubular track. It is easier to put together and does not short out.

[@johnchambers8528]

Thanks for the video. I agree that the old style tubular track holds up well and even if damaged in many cases can be brought back to serviceable. I only have had one experience with the new fastrack. I bought the Polar Express Lionel set and it came with fast track. I only used it for my Christmas train layout. I did buy some extra since I put it on a 4x8 platform. I also have a much larger train layout in my attic and there I use the old style track. One other reason to use the tubular track is that if you own any of the older Lionel operating cars that use sliding shoes to activate them you can not operate them on fast track. You do have to buy the special track to operate them but you can usually find them used at train shows at reasonable cost. You also can easily cut the tubular track to custom size by just using a saw. Fast track makes you have to use only pieces that come in limited sizes.

[@MatecaCorp]

They do make FasTrack actuator tracks for the operating cars

[@adamdelarozza1985]

I'm a Marklin man and it uses the 3-rail track. I'm on the fence as to get the plastic C track, and it has the plastic gravel but is so much more expensive than the original metal track. I never was a big fan of plastic and that's why I collect the older Marklin Locos and cars; as they are all metal (die cast). I have lots of rhe old school metal track and after seeing this video, I will stick with the metal track . Thanks for sharing your experience as it will save me a lot of time & money.

[@mypugsdad5366]

Let tell ya, used to have Marklin and stay with the metal it can not be beat. It is very durable and lasts forever.

[@deepsleep7822]

I’ve had connectivity issues with FT. I’ve found if you crimp the vertical sides of the rail together, just a little, where the tab(s) are inserted, connectivity improves. I have a semipermanent layout, therefore no damage from building up and tearing down. However, I have broken a few tabs and was surprised that Lionel sold this tabs as replacement parts. Which might make a statement about its durability.

[@arthurs5704]

I have been using fast track on a subway layout for the past 10 years with no problems. I ran the layout for about 2 years before I covered it with a surface layout

[@GarageGeek]

I have to slightly crimp my fasttrack connections sometimes. Same with tubular track. Fasttrack is a little easier to wire together because it has spade connectors on the bottom. My pro tip is to get some mini end cutting pliers. You can use these to slightly crimp connections while the track is in place to help with dead spots. But to act like tubular doesn’t experience dead spots is not accurate. I have a lot of fasttrack but sort of wish I would have gone with one of the more realistic looking options.

[@jerryreed3720]

I have fastrack and it works flawlessly with cleaning and upkeep, a simple wipe with a microfiber rag or some steel wool does the trick

[@rscellartrains734]

my dad always called tubular track, gumband track. (a gumband is another name for a rubber band). when doing a floor layout and connecting the track use gumbands on the bottom cross members of the two pieces your connecting. that will keep the two pieces together and stop them from separating since you cant screw it down.

[@whitmorestrains]

After abandoning realtrax, it was either Atlas or Menards due to availability in 2020. I needed a lot of track and Menards track was cheap and simple. Once I discovered Ross make 072 switches or you can get pins to run normal ross switches with tubular, I was set. Tubular is quiet, cheap, easy to cut, solder, make custom pieces, repair the fiber on the center rail without pulling up the track, and there is just something about how it looks with or without the extra ties when it’s ballasted. Conductivity is very good. 4 years with no issues. I have only had to fix one piece because of a misaligned fiber insulator on the center rail. It was easily reparable with a pair of needle nose pliers. Overall, it’s hard to beat tinplate track.

[@FostoriaOhiomodelrailroadclub]

I am in the process of rebuilding my dad's old gauge layout. We bought a lot of Menards tubular track and I really like it you have a awesome layout

[@Coloribus2004]

I use Fastrack and I am a little frustrated by how much dirt and grime appears on the rails. Other than that it ok. But I find using Tubular track (I have Menards Style) More satisfying because of the pin style and how the design absorbs the noise compared to Fastrack. What I would do is get a Fastrack to tubular adapter and expand from there.

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

Also the clickity clack is more evident when using tubular! (Depends on the surface of the layout)

[@Coloribus2004]

@@samsogaugetrains8670 true! The only gripe I have with tubular track is how the pin style prevents you from getting creative with a layout. Unless you manually switch around the pins.

[@samrabito366]

I agree Sam! I have Fastrak now and it is not as versatile as tubular track. It's easier to hook up operating accessories with tubular track in my opinion. Getting rid of Fastrak after Christmas!

[@McdonnellDouglas-11]

I somewhat agree with you, I have a decent size layout and after about a year, there would be certain spots that would stop working. I'm debating on switching my track, but I have so much scenery, that it would be costly for new scenery and track. Still doing research on what track is better. I have heard good things about Menards though.

[@cdjhyoung]

Friction fit electrical connections and time are always a poor idea. If you are unwilling to add a few clip on's, perhaps do something to give your layout some electrical insurance. I've used something called Deoxit in a grease form. I paint every electrical connection with it as I lay down the track. Its job is to stop the corrosion that invade metal on metal points of contact that must complete an electrical path. It is a bit pricey, but well worth it if your track layout is intended to stay long term.

[@peterp8911]

Sam, there are several videos on You Tube that respond to your issues with fast track. The main problem seems to be that the center pin gets loose over time particularly if the track is not screwed down. Ozarkmidlandsouthernrailway's comment below this comment noted that a cure is to solder jumper wires along the center rail between track sections on the underside of the track. There is a notch on the underside along the center rail to accomodate this cure.

[@jonsmith4669]

I'm in the UK and Lionel is very difficult to buy in bad or good condition,I've been collecting/selling mostly prewar lionel O and Standard gauge for about 35 years, in small amounts,I enjoy repairing it mostly.I have some modern Lionel, legacy is amazing..... .I only use lionel at Christmas either on the floor or now on strong fold up tables from Amazon. I always used tubular track as Fast track is just too expensive shipped from USA.(EVERYTHING IS !) but of late I have used Fastrack that has been available S/H on Ebay at times in the UK at a more reasonable price and new on Amazon UK ,white only. SO last year I bought enough to lay on the floor about 20 feet , plus loop each end. it worked ok, now the problems this year, is electrical connectivity is not as good as IT WAS mainly caused by the track COMING APART VERY EASILY.I know some of it is wear and tear, but some of it is new , but STILL comes apart.....I've only used once last Christmas,also its VERY NOISY ! dont like that at all. Conclusion is Fastrack is only suitable for a permanent layout screwed down on some sort of mat to deaden the racket.. Very disappointed, Fastrack looks great ,but thats its best feature,the engineering is very bad for Lionel ,it hasn't been tested properly for temporary layouts. its just not suitable, the plastic locking tabs underneath are a joke,they are hard to push in but they come apart after a few uses, tiny plastic tabs are not man enough ,very bad engineering, they need to be metal to stand a chance, tiny plastic tabs have no chance of lasting at all. I'm going to have to make some sort of metal clip to hold each track section together for floor use, what a pain. Lionel should have done this,its like buying an expensive guard Dog and barking for it! I dont have any tubular now, sold it all,but may have to go back to it as its much more robust and some have clips too..

[@toddsholtis4470]

There are many options to purchase used or NOS (new old stock) Lionel Tubular Track (Amazon, ebay, auctions, etc...). I also have had many sets that included FasTrack and I have never had any issues with it (even taking it apart and re-installing it many times over).

[@richardbrown3061]

I’ve been using tubular track since the 1960s. I have both low profile and high profile.

[@JERRYR708]

I have used Fast Track around my shelf ceiling layout for 10 years and never had any problems.

[@shadowknight99999]

Nice layout. I thought about using fast track due to availability but i opted for atlas 3 rail and its been pretty good other than having to clean it fairly often. I do have a fair bit of old lionel tubular though.

[@CrescentLuma]

As someone who has come from collecting and running n and ho scale models, I have always preferred atlas track for my o scale models. I like the way it looks better, and I like that it’s made with nickel silver instead of steel. But I would definitely say Tubular track is also a solid choice for its affordability and reliability.

[@BillThomas-i6i]

I have replaced much of my Fastrack with Menards tubular track using the Menards transition track (allows conversion from Fastrack to tubular track). Especially in hard to reach areas, since tubular track works 6 times longer than Fastrack when both get dirty. I have heard there is 30% more steel in tubular track. Nice video!

[@Tom-ri8ws]

So many true points made here, I’m stuck with fastrack for the time being

[@stevenbullock9276]

I had FasTrack that I used many years ago- mostly for running trains on the floor. When I built a table, I switched to RealTrax, then to Gargraves, and gave all the FasTrack to my son. I still have some FasTrack that I've gotten recently in sets, and a few long sections in case I want to put up something temporary- like around a tree. What I remember about the old FasTrack is it snapped together TIGHTLY- I had a helluva time getting some of it apart, and it wasn't uncommon to hold up several sections by just one piece. The newer stuff seems different- doesn't fit well together and falls apart easily. At least that's my experience...

[@davidstull-d6s]

I couldn't agree more. I recently started an O Guage layout 24 x 12 and I found the cost of fastrack to be prohibitive and poor performing and LOUD. I also find the look to be toyish. I use the menards track and it is much cheaper quieter and after you add ties and ballast much more realistic. Great video.

[@walterjohnson8065]

Thank you for your video on fast track You are the first person I have heard complain about it I have had trouble with tracks just suddenly not conducting power and have had to replace them. I have been so frustrated that I considered giving up the hobby. I tend to like the car graves track. The other thing I find frustrating is the expensive engines. They work wonderfully for a while and then they just die. It is hard to find a place to take them for repair.thanks for your video it is nice to know it is not only me who has problems with fast track

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

My video was geared towards experiences like yours! I hope you find a track that suits you!

[@railchief74]

I originally started with Lionel fastrack but my take away was that I did not like all the noise that the road bed was making. Lionel Tubular and the Atles track systems are my two favorites

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

I hope to get atlas later on but tubular works for now.

[@robertgreen9804]

Good decision, FastTrack switch shorted and set my board on fire. My house was gutted. I was buying switches off ebay so I don't know if it was used when it said it was new.

[@bmtrains4466]

Me and my grand pa made a layout out of fast tracks and it has been vary good

[@Wiencourager]

I agree on the fastrack. It looks plasticy and cheap and it’s hard to tweak when you need an odd size piece. Most of my trains are from the 50s anyway. I just wish you could get new 027 profile track in wider radius. Since the demise of K-line it’s hard to come by. I’m using the Menards track for any additions. Lionel aquired the tooling from k line in the settlement I heard, they should bring it back , with the 042 switches. I would buy it if they did.

[@tjsnyder1968]

Good video and information. Just back into the hobby. And when I did went with traditional tubular track. Recently did get a couple Lion Chief sets that included fast track. While a bit intrigued by it, and even gave consideration of replacing tubular with it, however just was not sure. Your video helps reinforce my decision. 👍

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

Awesome! Glad my video helped you in your decision making! Also check out all the comments to see what other people say too! Everyone had their own experience. Make the decision that is right for you!

[@falcondragonslayer]

I’ve had fastrack since I was 8 and haven’t had issues with it apart from when I have physically damaged it from being too rough. However, I’m considering getting tubular track for when I build a proper layout, and saving the fastrack for temporary layouts that I might set up elsewhere. The only thing I’m concerned about is realism. I don’t have the skill to make the layout super realistic like other people, but I’d like to have a proper roadbed and ties. Would it be possible to make a gravel road bed and get wooden ties for them like people do with HO track?

[@northpennvalleysteamrailroad]

Great video! I pretty much use MTH RealTrax & Lionel Tubular.

[@benzacct1]

I love MTH track. “ Snaps” together for more positive connections.

[@MygrandpasTrain]

I was recently at a hobby shop looking for some 3 rail track. They offered Fastrack. That plastic stuff is so thin I can easily bend and twist it! I picked up a bunch of their MTH track on clearance instead.

[@robertcontri4087]

Excellent presentation, good job! I agree, fast track is expensive. I can’t believe a remote fast track switch is $100+!

[@brianbright7501]

I guess it depends if you are looking for something more realistic or the tubular track look I love gargraves track with the wooden ties and the black center rail :)

[@StephenCarlBaldwin]

Great video! Noise is an issue for me, so I run traditional tubular track (Lionel/K-Line) fitted with Johnson rubber roadbed (out of production but occasionally surfaces on eBay). One can get very good deals on tubular track these days (probably because a lot of FasTrackers are dumping their tubular track...) I don't think I'll ever opt for FasTrack. A commentor here noted that perhaps there is a market for Super-O. I might take the plunge if Lionel ever revived it!

[@kathyjumper6991]

The noise level of the Fastrack is what made me go to tubular.

[@whitemountainproductions]

When me and my dad started we had fastrack and it started out well at first until we started expanding our layout then we switched to tubular since it’s much better

[@gregleuze6657]

I like using Fast Track but I have broken one/two connections on my O72 curves during my years of use. Biggest loss was my leading switch to my siding wearing out which I replaced this year. I have the adapter pieces as the old tubular activation track works better than the fast track version for the operating milk cars. Bigger magnet in the tubular version? My Christmas Layout is 17 feet long by 7 feet wide. I have four pieces of track wired to my 180 watt transformer so I am not experiencing any power loss. Noise is not really that big of an issue as it is set up on carpet. Because the roadbed is not open I have found the screw to my leading wheels on my Berkshire and a screw that fell Off my searchlight car. This is my fifth year using the track. My postwar Santa Fe F7 does NOT like the Fast Track switches. The Berkshire does not seem to mind the Fast Track. I have been running my Lackawanna E8 since buying it in, I think, 2019. In the end, run what you enjoy as there are pros and cons to each of the track systems. Enjoy hearing people’s views on this topic.

[@Frank-is9ke]

I had all the same issues you mentioned early in the video. The worst decision I made was starting with fastrack. Do your homework! If you do, you will be thankful! Fastrack is a waste of time and money.

[@chiconian49]

Many of my Lionel trains have Magnatraction. Magnatraction will not work on Fastrack. I had a small loop of Fastrack because it would protect my carpet from any oil from my trains run around the Christmas tree. After 5 years I started having problems with it, so I tossed it.

[@Non_Of_U_business]

Tubular track looses too much power signal but it is cheap (Menards)...HATE Fastrack for the loud noise in which this was a deal breaker for me. I have always owned MTH trains for the value and use Realtrax. Its reliable, no power loss, its sturdy and strong. If you buy pre-owned online save so much money. I never went back. You will realize this yourself. I buy used 0-31 Realtrax curved for $2-3 each...Realtrax switches used $40-$80 very affordable. The biggest cost on trains is the (engines) and (switches). Thanks for posting!

[@jasonstrains4993]

My father got me a ton of FastTrack. It’s a lot of fun having a small layout. But gosh, FastTrack is really expensive!

[@alanjensen4830]

I don’t like Fastrack for several reasons. First, it is not very reliable. The center rail pins are easily broken and so far I have not found a source for replacement pins at a reasonable price. Usually get them from non functional old Fastrack pieces. Second when making a layout without a computer design program it is sometimes very difficult to close a loop. With tubular track you get out the hacksaw. Fastrack has a high level of noise. I have been using tubular track laid on carpet pad with “Moondog” rubber ties. I also weather my tubular track and add blast which makes it more realistic looking to my eye. Used tubular track at train shows is dirt cheap.

[@cemetree]

Do you have any suggestion for hogwarts not derailing? I haven’t used mine in ages but I threw out the fast track when we moved and was going to replace it because it used to derail

[@SandyBellew-j4x]

I like the new fast track by Lionel You do not half to worry about the center rail shorting out

[@josephpashka7369]

To make a ballast look for my old tubular track, I cut up old roof shingles. Not perfect, but nothingy is. My O gauge CB&Q Zephyr video shows what it looks like.

[@GeorgeRainey-s4v]

cleaning fastrack is a pain in the B. it tends to go black and in time the steel will rust so I would not have it on a permanent fixed layout as you will need to change pieces of track every so often when it rusts.

[@tableseven8133]

Gargraves Ross track is the best realistic alternative I think, especially the ones with the real wood ties..

[@kingjulian9496]

Hi I use menards o96 and straights. i do have several pieces of fastrack. The menards track I've had no problems with.

[@Robin_The_Red_Rabbit]

The only reason I ever use fast track is because my starter sets come with it and it's my only power supply peace I use, and i use two tube track adapters. Furthermore to that fast track is very helpful when designing hillsides as you can cut the ballast pieces and bend the rails And thus you can make a very unrealistic grade on your layout

[@therosejewelrailroad489]

I started out with tubular track. I have slowly been transitioning to fastrack. Actually completed the transition yesterday. I like fastrack. I feel it looks better then tubular track. I feel the current recipe of fastrack is better than the earlier recipe. With tubular track I would have 4 or 5 lock on points on my longest loop. I only have one power point on the same loop now that I switched to fastrack. There is better more realistic track out there. But for me I wanted something my local hobby shop had on the shelf. That being said. Tubular track saves you from buying small track pieces because you can always just cut pieces to the length you desire. In closing I feel Lionel has a strong quality post war era reputation. Sometimes we don’t want to give Lionel credit for anything after those years. I respect your opinion and enjoy your channel.

[@peterconrad6135]

Fasttrack may look prototypical, but tubular is far more durable-especially for portable modular layouts. The look is also easily fixed: add ties, ballast, rust out the side rails, & black out the middle & your track will look nearly as good!

[@lifewithroscoe6513]

I'm into S gauge. I had issues using their S gauge version of Fastrack. Either it was very hard to get the sections to fit, or they would come apart very easy. One issue I had with the curves was went a engine would go into the curve, the engine would make a horrible noise. I thought that the engine derailed around the curve.

[@YeeHooRacing]

My fasttrack pieces will disconnect, when I try to reconnect the track, ANOTHER PIECE will then disconnect, it is very annoying, I will for sure try to get some Menards track, especially since it’s cheaper.

[@jimbrent8151]

Well done - thank you for sharing. I have heard that tubular is best from an older O Gauger who knew his stuff.

[@Dawsonsrailfanadventures74]

I currently and probably always use tubular on my o gauge layout im running lionel O-31 curves and have never purchased menards track but I really like the 4 menards cars i own