Don't Make This COSTLY Mistake!

Disclaimer: I am only comparing FasTrack to only what type of track I have experience with. I am also not saying that Tubular track is the superior track for O scale train collectors. I am simply stating my experiences with FasTrack and giving my advice to beginner O scale enthusiasts. This is strictly my opinion. Enjoy the video!
#youtubevideo #samsogaugetrains

[@rj.trains]

Embrace tradition, reject modernity

[@geodot595]

rj has a great fastrack layout but i think he will change when he builds a new one. i have realtrax and fastrack and am thinking of menards when u rebuild. i found realtrax connectors bend out of shape easily, and fastrack im not sure of yet. look at dagryfinn menard layout as what can be done.

[@johnbeck3270]

Personal opinion, I think Lionel made a big mistake by discontinuing their tubular rail system. I’m kind of a “purist” when it comes to running my O/27 trains, they just belong on tubular track! I’m glad to see Menards “picking up the slack” in the O gauge market. I do hope, eventually, they may offer O/27 tubular track as well as the O gauge they offer now.

[@jenniferwhitewolf3784]

Also.... Keep an eye out for K-Line track as well. They made some very high quality traditional tubular track and switches. The Menards is great too, glad it is available.

[@johnbeck3270]

I think Menards only produces “0” gauge track at this time. I have a “ton” of Lionel 0-27 equipment and would like to be able to add more track without replacing all I already have. Kline made a lot of 0-27 track and switches until they were bought out and shut down by Lionel. I don’t think I could ever make the move to Lionel’s plastic road bed track. Lionel belongs on tubular rail.@@jenniferwhitewolf3784

[@davidglemboski258]

I have a layout using several hundred feet of FastTrack and I have had absolutely no problems with it on any of the six tracks that I run.

[@asdfdsa45]

I've never had any problems with Fastrack either. On larger payouts, I had problems with tubular track losing power at the far end and I had to run wires directly to it and then every 6' to 8' apart. That was one thing I liked about the newer track systems and that was connectivity, they're just better. I also like the more realistic rail. I am a 3-rail modeler but I now, after experimenting with function and appearance, use Atlas code 148 rail 2-rail flex track with a code 100 blackened rail down the middle or I hand lay my rails on bass wood ties, spiking down code 148 rails (nickel silver on flat runs and steel rails on inclines [for magnetraction locos]). The flat head of the code 148 rail gives a postwar FM even more grip surface with the wheel and wow!! Does it pull! My 1937 700e as well as my two prewar 763e locos love it as well. Some of the tinplate freight cars will actually operate on the scale rails but some won't as their flanges are too big. Non of the tinplate will go through a scale turnout (switch) but postwar rollingstock does so beautifully. MPC rolling stock runs beautifully on these scale rails but not so well in the turnouts due to the frog setting, I have to modify them a bit. There is something about hand laying your track that I never knew I missed when putting down sectional track.

[@sdr868]

I only have tubular track from Menards and my Santa fe locomotive and rolling stock ( all from Menards) never derails.

[@cathrynm]

My father's layout has been tubular for 20+ years now. I think tubular is immortal.

[@mattkramer4132]

I've been in O gauge since 1972 and have used both tubular and FasTrack. Tubular is nice, you can cut it to fit, easy to solder wires to and throw a lockon anywhere you want. But... On my latest layout I decided to go with FasTrack for the first time. I like it just a tad bit more. I like not having to deal with finicky track pins, the integrated roadbed is nice, and smaller switch machines compared to postwar. I'm only running a 4x8 and have no plans to remove the track once it's down. I'm using newer batches of FasTrack and the conductivity is better than when I had tubular. Not a single voltage dropout in any spots. My old leftover tubular goes under the Christmas tree. lol

[@YourLocalRailfan]

Good to know when I start my o gauge layout!

[@TwistedMacGyversTrains]

I have used every type of track systems. They all have one thing in common, you have to make sure you have a smooth tight transition from track to track. Make sure your sections are tightly closed without any gaps. Run your fingers along the sections and make sure it’s smooth in between your sections of track. Please a level on top of your rails and make sure you don’t have any dips or high spots. Doing this will ensure trouble free train operation. My favorite is Atlas O gauge tracks & original postwar tubular track. Thank you for making this video Sam. I really enjoyed it. 😊 Frank

[@ozarkmidlandsouthernrailway]

Hi, Sam, good morning. Actually, I enjoy using FasTrack on my layout. When I started building the OM&S it was a readily available track system that went down easily and has served me well to date. Now one of the things I did as I was laying it was to solder jumpers between the different track pieces and then soldered jumper wires to the center and outside rails about every ten track sections or so. The jumper wires are attached to bus wires underneath the layout. This has proven to be pretty rock solid providing good electrical continuity throughout the railroad. I understand that this method is useful and works well because the track is screwed down to the layout table. I have had minimal problems with the remote switches. I did have to replace one because while working on the layout I fell backwards and landed hard on it bending the track pieces (switch blades) and was not ever able to make it work reliably afterwords. A second remote switch seemed to gradually begin to not function reliably with some of my locomotives after a year or so, that I simply credited to hard use. It seemed at least one of the switch blades/points became misaligned and again I chose to replace the switch. I've had no problems with the manual switches that I can think of. Tubular track is good stuff and is what I ran my trains on for many years. With all of that said if I were building a 3-rail railroad today with realism as a primary goal and wanted to go to the trouble of creating the most realistic looking track possible, I would not choose a track system with a built-in roadbed. I believe I would go with Atlas O track and either Atlas O or Ross switches. I enjoyed your video and found your candid discussion about your experiences with FasTrack very interesting. Bill B.

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

I’m glad you have had success with Fastrack! I wish I had the same. I wish I could of hot wired my track at the time but it simply wasn’t possible at the time. I was pretty much fed up with Fastrack by the time I built my current layout. I still have my Fastrack for emergencies but I see myself using tubular for a long while. I’ve got some unopened automatic tubular 0-72 switches waiting to be used.

[@MarkWick]

When I started getting back into American Flyer S gauge, I bought the Lionel American FasTrack to display the first couple of cars I bought. When I build my layout, I incorporated that FasTrack into the layout which was built using the original American Flyer track produced by the A.C. Gilbert company. I added ties made from strips of balsa wood, over cardboard, then ballasted with beach sand. It all looked very realistic, except for the FasTrack section. After a few months, trains started slowing way down on the 40 inch section of FasTrack. I had to dismantle that layout when I moved and I have used only the original Gilbert track on the new layout. I do use that strip of FasTrack for my test track, but will never buy any more. The Gilbert product is readily available, much less expensive, and a superior product, even at at least 60 years old.

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

It’s interesting the S Gauge track didn’t work out either. I’m sorry to hear. Thank you for sharing!

[@johnandrus3901]

Good video and review. I collect and run post-war and MPC. FasTrack is non-magnetic and doesn't work with MagneTraction. It also is less forgiving of miss-alignment. On tubular track, you can make adjustments because you can flex it to make it fit. You can also add ballast and make it look fairly realistic. For those who like FasTrack, that 's fine, but I'd rather have my trains run smoothly on the track that they were designed for.

[@TooManyHobbiesJeremy]

Thank you for sharing your experience & providing us with examples so we can make up our own minds.

[@StephenKoferl]

Great video pointing out other options

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

Thank you Steve!

[@ELWtrains]

I have had to replace or fix my fast rack a few times, I like it but I don’t think it’s dependable, I’m not sure what other track to go with? Seems like fastrack is about the cheapest option other than tubler track?

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

Tubular track is the best option price wise and durability wise in my opinion.

[@TrainBandit]

I love tubular track for so many reasons including the fact that its very unrealistic. When ever i see tubular track i smile lol! My only problem is that you cant run it on carpet. Do you have any ideas?

[@sawilson56]

People's success with fastrack varies. Generally, there are 2 rules to it: 1: The connection joints will bend and break. Even if you don't see it, every time you connect and take it apart, you're wearing down the connectors. This helps influence... 2: The electrical connections suck. Part of that is from the above mentioned, and part of it is just the nature of the design You don't need to hot wire every piece of track, but every 4-6 pieces probably. I do this anyways on my Atlas O layout, just to minimize connectivity issues

[@JDubya96]

Excellent advice, Sam. Thank you for sharing what you’ve learned to help further educate those of us new to the hobby. You are helping us to save money and minimize frustrations! We appreciate you!

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

Of course! I sacrifice my money and time to keep you from making the same mistakes! 🫡

[@genemanno1533]

You pointed out an issue I always said “to keep it simple”. The least complicated system is almost always the best choice. Nothing is simpler than the old tubular track design. Both “O” & 027 are good choices. I selected 027 as it is lower cost and a bit lower profile height.

[@joeystrains.9316]

Excellent video Sam, you're a natural. Tubular is very dependable and can be restored. The challenge is to make it look good on the layout with extra ties.

[@northpennvalleysteamrailroad]

Great video! I pretty much use MTH RealTrax & Lionel Tubular.

[@lrailroadgroup]

I am in the process of rebuilding my dad's old gauge layout. We bought a lot of Menards tubular track and I really like it you have a awesome layout

[@adamdelarozza1985]

I'm a Marklin man and it uses the 3-rail track. I'm on the fence as to get the plastic C track, and it has the plastic gravel but is so much more expensive than the original metal track. I never was a big fan of plastic and that's why I collect the older Marklin Locos and cars; as they are all metal (die cast). I have lots of rhe old school metal track and after seeing this video, I will stick with the metal track . Thanks for sharing your experience as it will save me a lot of time & money.

[@rolandmetzner8177]

I to came the same conclusion to use tubular track. to me its much easier to work with. Good advice.

[@tjsnyder1968]

Good video and information. Just back into the hobby. And when I did went with traditional tubular track. Recently did get a couple Lion Chief sets that included fast track. While a bit intrigued by it, and even gave consideration of replacing tubular with it, however just was not sure. Your video helps reinforce my decision. 👍

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

Awesome! Glad my video helped you in your decision making! Also check out all the comments to see what other people say too! Everyone had their own experience. Make the decision that is right for you!

[@chiconian49]

Many of my Lionel trains have Magnatraction. Magnatraction will not work on Fastrack. I had a small loop of Fastrack because it would protect my carpet from any oil from my trains run around the Christmas tree. After 5 years I started having problems with it, so I tossed it.

[@Shipwright1918]

Biggest detractor for FasTrack when I was getting started was price and it only goes down to O-31. My train room is quite small, and to make the track plan I wanted work required O-27 curves throughout. O-27 tubular was cheaper new old stock, you can cut it to the length you need, and you can DIY your own insulated track to trigger trackside accessories instead of having to buy more pricey bits from Lionel to do the same job. The old ways are the best ways sometimes.

[@johnbeck3270]

Lionel “0” gauge “train set” curved track segments were 31” diameter. You could run your 0-27 trains on 0 gauge track, but you couldn’t run your 0 gauge trains on 0-27 track. I think it had to due with train size (0 gauge trains were slightly larger than the 0-27 trains) and possibly flange depth. If you have a chance, set an 0 gauge Lionel next to an 0-27 you’ll definitely see that the 0-27 is quite undersized compared to the 0 gauge.

[@Shipwright1918]

Lionel also offered O-27 to compete with American Flyer and Marx, as well as offer a "budget" line of trains. In most cases, most trains that will run on O-31 curves will navigate O-27 just fine, and many O-27 locomotives are identical to their O counterparts aside from their number. Most troubles tend to come from locos or cars being so long that they can't clear the switch housings, though you can always remove those or modify the loco or car. Until the advent of scale/Legacy, all Lionel trains were undersized, some scale ones still are, but it was to a practical purpose to allow layouts in an ordinary household room, as true to scale curves would mean you'd need an aircraft hangar to house your layout. I'm pretty happy with my O-27, most of my equipment is semi-scale so it works just fine. 4-8-4's, 2-8-4's, and a Challenger are plenty big enough for my purposes.

[@railchief74]

I originally started with Lionel fastrack but my take away was that I did not like all the noise that the road bed was making. Lionel Tubular and the Atles track systems are my two favorites

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

I hope to get atlas later on but tubular works for now.

[@Frank-is9ke]

I had all the same issues you mentioned early in the video. The worst decision I made was starting with fastrack. Do your homework! If you do, you will be thankful! Fastrack is a waste of time and money.

[@arthurs5704]

I have been using fast track on a subway layout for the past 10 years with no problems. I ran the layout for about 2 years before I covered it with a surface layout

[@Sparks2030]

I think you're right. It was easier to use tubular track than fast track. I'm thinking next year to start switching to tubular track. It is easier to put together and does not short out.

[@EngineerEd-xt2qu]

I used tubular track when I was a kid and I had problems with the connectivity of the track. I’ve have fast track and I don’t have that problem any more.

[@Coloribus2004]

I use Fastrack and I am a little frustrated by how much dirt and grime appears on the rails. Other than that it ok. But I find using Tubular track (I have Menards Style) More satisfying because of the pin style and how the design absorbs the noise compared to Fastrack. What I would do is get a Fastrack to tubular adapter and expand from there.

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

Also the clickity clack is more evident when using tubular! (Depends on the surface of the layout)

[@Coloribus2004]

@@samsogaugetrains8670 true! The only gripe I have with tubular track is how the pin style prevents you from getting creative with a layout. Unless you manually switch around the pins.

[@70Ford302]

Whole heartedly agree

[@fredashay]

IMO, FasTrack is perfectly fine if you're building a permanent layout with all new track that hasn't been connected and disconnected again and again, and you want your layout to look realistic. Tubular track is better if you repeatedly connect and disconnect your track because it's more rugged, and the connecting pins are more thick and substantial and can stand up better to constant plugging and unplugging track sections, and you don't care about realism or appearance. When I was a kid, my first train set came with tubular track, and it lasted for years and years being set up on the floor of my room and taken apart again and again and again, and never had an electrical problem or operational problem. As an adult, I have a FasTrak "layout" running around the perimeter of my living room (I'm a MGTOW introvert who lives alone, lol), and I rarely modify it, and it has never given me a problem either. Just my opinion 🙂

[@jimbrent8151]

Well done - thank you for sharing. I have heard that tubular is best from an older O Gauger who knew his stuff.

[@YeeHooRacing]

My fasttrack pieces will disconnect, when I try to reconnect the track, ANOTHER PIECE will then disconnect, it is very annoying, I will for sure try to get some Menards track, especially since it’s cheaper.

[@shadowknight99999]

Nice layout. I thought about using fast track due to availability but i opted for atlas 3 rail and its been pretty good other than having to clean it fairly often. I do have a fair bit of old lionel tubular though.

[@Dawsonsrailfanadventures74]

I currently and probably always use tubular on my o gauge layout im running lionel O-31 curves and have never purchased menards track but I really like the 4 menards cars i own

[@user-zz1kb5el2i]

I like the new fast track by Lionel You do not half to worry about the center rail shorting out

[@kingjulian9496]

Hi I use menards o96 and straights. i do have several pieces of fastrack. The menards track I've had no problems with.

[@samrabito366]

I agree Sam! I have Fastrak now and it is not as versatile as tubular track. It's easier to hook up operating accessories with tubular track in my opinion. Getting rid of Fastrak after Christmas!

[@brianbright7501]

I guess it depends if you are looking for something more realistic or the tubular track look I love gargraves track with the wooden ties and the black center rail :)

[@peterconrad6135]

Fasttrack may look prototypical, but tubular is far more durable-especially for portable modular layouts. The look is also easily fixed: add ties, ballast, rust out the side rails, & black out the middle & your track will look nearly as good!

[@gregleuze6657]

I like using Fast Track but I have broken one/two connections on my O72 curves during my years of use. Biggest loss was my leading switch to my siding wearing out which I replaced this year. I have the adapter pieces as the old tubular activation track works better than the fast track version for the operating milk cars. Bigger magnet in the tubular version? My Christmas Layout is 17 feet long by 7 feet wide. I have four pieces of track wired to my 180 watt transformer so I am not experiencing any power loss. Noise is not really that big of an issue as it is set up on carpet. Because the roadbed is not open I have found the screw to my leading wheels on my Berkshire and a screw that fell Off my searchlight car. This is my fifth year using the track. My postwar Santa Fe F7 does NOT like the Fast Track switches. The Berkshire does not seem to mind the Fast Track. I have been running my Lackawanna E8 since buying it in, I think, 2019. In the end, run what you enjoy as there are pros and cons to each of the track systems. Enjoy hearing people’s views on this topic.

[@walterjohnson8065]

Thank you for your video on fast track You are the first person I have heard complain about it I have had trouble with tracks just suddenly not conducting power and have had to replace them. I have been so frustrated that I considered giving up the hobby. I tend to like the car graves track. The other thing I find frustrating is the expensive engines. They work wonderfully for a while and then they just die. It is hard to find a place to take them for repair.thanks for your video it is nice to know it is not only me who has problems with fast track

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

My video was geared towards experiences like yours! I hope you find a track that suits you!

[@user-du8pt3zw4z]

Hi Sam I just came across your channel and subed.. I cant agree with you more on the Fasr Track issue.Over time it showed its true colors. Every piece switches operating and uncupiling track died.I tried everything but no go.So for me tubular is it. thanks for sharring this and bust a piece for me..

[@strasburgrailfan90]

I'm deep in the FasTrack hole, and I don't really have any options right now. All I can do is deal with it until I build a tabletop layout.

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

I wish you luck!

[@frazztrainman2187]

awesum

[@Cfox2000]

I have had multiple issues with FasTrack, worst issue was short and plastic melting. Also over time it will discolor. I also noticed that there is a lot more carbon buildup on the fast track and on tubular track. I switched over to FastTrack ever since they introduced the wireless switches that were TMCC

[@mytrainhobby5318]

I moved to Fastrack after having so many issues with the MTH product, and myself have had no issues with it. However, I have been hearing more and more stories of people have connectivity issues just as mentioned here. But that said, if I didn't already have all my track from the Lionel basket, I would now go with the Menard's track.

[@arendsjustin]

My local hobby town store doesn’t carry the Old tuber track they said it was discontinued so I went and got my two pure track from eBay and Amazon

[@rscellartrains734]

my dad always called tubular track, gumband track. (a gumband is another name for a rubber band). when doing a floor layout and connecting the track use gumbands on the bottom cross members of the two pieces your connecting. that will keep the two pieces together and stop them from separating since you cant screw it down.

[@harryabramowitz5600]

Hi Sam I agree that Fastrak is not as good as other track systems. Tubular track is the most used and most successful track in O gauge. There's one special track for O gauge that I think is the best ever made. I have a layout that's 50' X 35'. I run 60 car trains and can run 5 trains at a time. I use a ready available Super O track. I have Super O curves with radii up to 108". There's well over 1,000 pieces of Super O on my layout. I started my layout in 1986. There's 46 Super O switches that work great. I still have a few Gargraves sections on the layout, but I'm in the process of replacing them with my custom Super O wide radius curves. People say that the center rail cuts grooves in rollers, but that is NOT true. I agree with your assessment of Fastrak. I also don't think it looks realistic with gray ties and ballast. I have heard from a lot of other O gauge modelers that they really can't run their trains successfully on Fastrak. You can see my Super O layout on youtube. Search "Harry Abramowitz".

[@stevenbullock9276]

I had FasTrack that I used many years ago- mostly for running trains on the floor. When I built a table, I switched to RealTrax, then to Gargraves, and gave all the FasTrack to my son. I still have some FasTrack that I've gotten recently in sets, and a few long sections in case I want to put up something temporary- like around a tree. What I remember about the old FasTrack is it snapped together TIGHTLY- I had a helluva time getting some of it apart, and it wasn't uncommon to hold up several sections by just one piece. The newer stuff seems different- doesn't fit well together and falls apart easily. At least that's my experience...

[@doctordeath.5716]

I like tube track better and I also buy it used from where ever I see it. My fast track rusted up and that sucks.

[@GoldStandardTrains]

My fastrack works perfectly fine. I don’t find it much louder than other brands(I have it on homasote). With any RR layout it is usually a good idea to run feeder wires to keep power flowing well. I also do like command control switches. Atlas and Gargraves make great track too. I just find tubular to be too unrealistic looking. But whatever allows you to run trains and is easiest for you, that’s your answer. Fastrack is nice also you can get any piece you need as fast as it can be shipped to you or your closest store that sells it.

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

I guess that is an advantage of FasTrack, being able to have all the lengths and sizes. If one were to do it with tubular track, you'd have to measure and cut it. Whatever works!

[@stevenplyler6306]

My first Fastrack pieces caused some trouble from 2003-05 but the Fastrack I’ve used from 2006 to the 2020’s hasn’t given me much trouble. Tubular track is fine but I don’t like it coming apart and having to fasten it down to tables all of the time though.

[@alanjensen4830]

I don’t like Fastrack for several reasons. First, it is not very reliable. The center rail pins are easily broken and so far I have not found a source for replacement pins at a reasonable price. Usually get them from non functional old Fastrack pieces. Second when making a layout without a computer design program it is sometimes very difficult to close a loop. With tubular track you get out the hacksaw. Fastrack has a high level of noise. I have been using tubular track laid on carpet pad with “Moondog” rubber ties. I also weather my tubular track and add blast which makes it more realistic looking to my eye. Used tubular track at train shows is dirt cheap.

[@bmtrains4466]

Me and my grand pa made a layout out of fast tracks and it has been vary good

[@Pvilletrains]

You forgot to mention how loud Fastrack is. I sold all mine and switched to Menards tubular

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

FasTrack is quite loud, especially on top of a wood board.

[@peterp8911]

Sam, there are several videos on You Tube that respond to your issues with fast track. The main problem seems to be that the center pin gets loose over time particularly if the track is not screwed down. Ozarkmidlandsouthernrailway's comment below this comment noted that a cure is to solder jumper wires along the center rail between track sections on the underside of the track. There is a notch on the underside along the center rail to accomodate this cure.

[@doctordeath.5716]

The only thing fast track is good for is, Making a diearama for a display and just for using as a test track to use on your locomotives. Other then that, fast track starts to rust overtime and it is junk.

[@lifewithroscoe6513]

I'm into S gauge. I had issues using their S gauge version of Fastrack. Either it was very hard to get the sections to fit, or they would come apart very easy. One issue I had with the curves was went a engine would go into the curve, the engine would make a horrible noise. I thought that the engine derailed around the curve.

[@mattstrainroom]

I've used Fastrack a few times...when I got back into 3 rail, I got the early variations with the RTR set I got for Christmas about 20 years ago. It was fine but I did not like the noise. I've long used tubular track with Ross switches. I intend for the next one to have all GG/Ross track and switches. I recently had some Fastrack for under the tree - good for the purpose. One benefit Fastrak has it ease of availability. Who knows what will happen with Realtrax from MTH in the future...tubular works great.

[@josephpashka7369]

To make a ballast look for my old tubular track, I cut up old roof shingles. Not perfect, but nothingy is. My O gauge CB&Q Zephyr video shows what it looks like.

[@davidm5819]

I don’t remember you saying what you didn’t like about the fast track other than it’s pricey. I have it and the problems I have had are with the pins breaking especially one a earlier version of fast track. I have started to buy the track that Menards sells and they have a conversion piece that connects fast track to the tubular.

[@jamesdenny4734]

My fast trak hasn't been a problem!? I set it up for Christmas every year. 3 loops! 😊

[@Non_Of_U_business]

Tubular track looses too much power signal but it is cheap (Menards)...HATE Fastrack for the loud noise in which this was a deal breaker for me. I have always owned MTH trains for the value and use Realtrax. Its reliable, no power loss, its sturdy and strong. If you buy pre-owned online save so much money. I never went back. You will realize this yourself. I buy used 0-31 Realtrax curved for $2-3 each...Realtrax switches used $40-$80 very affordable. The biggest cost on trains is the (engines) and (switches). Thanks for posting!

[@georgewoodget271]

I agree and have gone with tubular track

[@therosejewelrailroad489]

I started out with tubular track. I have slowly been transitioning to fastrack. Actually completed the transition yesterday. I like fastrack. I feel it looks better then tubular track. I feel the current recipe of fastrack is better than the earlier recipe. With tubular track I would have 4 or 5 lock on points on my longest loop. I only have one power point on the same loop now that I switched to fastrack. There is better more realistic track out there. But for me I wanted something my local hobby shop had on the shelf. That being said. Tubular track saves you from buying small track pieces because you can always just cut pieces to the length you desire. In closing I feel Lionel has a strong quality post war era reputation. Sometimes we don’t want to give Lionel credit for anything after those years. I respect your opinion and enjoy your channel.

[@manderschannel2275]

It’s only good for temporary setup, I don’t think I’ll invest anymore in it, I had the same problems like you had when I had an o scale collection, I’m getting back into it. I might look into Menards, but I personally would just go with a track that really works.

[@TGPilar]

ive had my fastrack for about a year and a half, it was easy to get at the time but oh my lord it gets SO dirty, some of the pieces are starting to rust and some are already dying on me, the track is noisy, expensive and overall kinda ugly, atlas track is great, definitely going that route next time, either that or just new tubular

[@12361870]

My only issue I’ve run into is my starter 0-8-0s want to derail on tubular track

[@thefuriousgamer2553]

Honestly almost all my fast track is 10-20 years old and hasn’t given much problems the only problems I’ve had is the voltage dropping across the track and slowing the train down but that’s cuz I don’t have a whole lot of wires going underneath but other than that best track I’ve used

[@michaeltanquary2881]

Tried Fastrack, too noisy. Currently used Lionel & Menards tubular, and K-Line ShadowRail. I use K-Line SuperSnap O72 switches after I spend some 3 hours per switch fixing all the problems with them. I run trains on the floor, and the biggest issue is someone stepping on them and kinking them, this is where tubular wins, its so cheap, just get another piece. Buy 40" or 36" sections to reduce voltage drop. Then when one gets ruined, save it for when you need that custom cut section.

[@richardnelson-ux1zz]

Tubular track is the way to go

[@limehuzki]

Fast track and EZ track is designed for quick and easy set up and take down. It's literally meant for you to just set on the ground and outside. Personally I prefer HO EZ track for my floor

[@gusshadleythelunaticfromar7125]

I had a similar experience.

[@paulbervid1610]

Fast track is fine for display.

[@billbenak3012]

I have tubular track that is from the 1920’s and it is trouble free, how many decades will your plastic roadbed last before it becomes brittle or just falls off the rails. Maybe none of you will be in the hobby for seventy plus years but I doubt fast track will last that long. I’ll stick with my old tubular track or my Gargraves track from the ‘60s.

[@jeffpecyna7807]

Were can you find t track ,?

[@LennyGaon]

Have your tried gargraves?

[@richardnelson-ux1zz]

I had fastrak on my polar express train set on my layout I use only menards tubular track and Lionel lockons works for me just fin

[@jenniferwhitewolf3784]

Just think, If you embraced 2 rail O scale, you could 100% avoid this problem. For my toy trains, it is traditional tubular... For scale trains, its hand laid O 2-rail. ANY Trains, new or vintage, with toy specification wheels and couplers work best on classic tubular.

[@mypugsdad5366]

I think O tubular track is great. yes it does not look like real train track but no mater we are dealing with 3 rail track anyway. The better choice for realism would be Gargarves it is strong and looks great as well. But me I stick with used O-27 and regular O gauge track.

[@AndrewNeilFalconer]

Solid rails only for O gauge track sections.

[@Traingamer5]

I’m currently doing the opposite switching from tubular back to fast track it works better for me

[@donpeck4347]

Fastrack is okay if you put it down and let it alone. If you repeatedly put it down and take it up, you lose conductivity. Their track connector are marginal at best.

[@maxfinkelstein2989]

tubular is much quieter than the fastrack also.

[@DS75921]

Nothing wrong with the old Lionel tube track. If you want a better looking track I use Gargraves with Ross switches.

[@jtbassgambler2594]

Ive never had any issues with the fast track * l like lionel fast track

[@johnfrangos5581]

I agree with this video and in fact tere are even more reasons why fasttrack is a poor choice. I bought the Lionel Mickey Mouse Christmas set for my 6 year old grand daughter. For about a third of the pieces she could not push the track together and it took an adult (me) to be able to do. The result were poor connections. As the narrator stated, the price of the fasttrack is ridiculous. Also, the plastic base looks rather phony to me and it does not allow you to add your own gravel,

[@davidblackham5649]

Atlas o track. looks better and works better. You also don't have the same conductivity problems especially since the corrosion on nickel silver track is still conductive

[@josephschuster1494]

I feel the purchase price of Fastrak is incredibly expen$ive and converting from tubular track is a major (and unnecessary) expense. I’d much rather take that money and apply it to a new locomotive. 🚂

[@Jams_Plooshi]

ok i will spend my dads cred card of tubular trak

[@richardnelson-ux1zz]

I will never use fastrak I always use tubular track made by menards

[@ShawnBowyer-nz4vj]

Gargraves with wood ties Doesn't have a problem with the insulator wearing out on your track and you can never find it. Not taking your track apart. You young kids don't realize we. Old-timers have already went through this. That's why we all switched to gargraves. You can get an inflex track. It's also flat on the top, so if you wanna run 2 rail cars on your 3 Rail, you can. Snap track connectors Crowed too often. They get green. C*** on them and you can't use them without really going through hell trying to clean him out. I'll never use nothing but garbage. I went to that c*** a million time before and I won't do it again. They also have a Phantom line where the middle whale is black and you hardly even sit. I've been Modeling O gauge for 40 years. Guard graves also uses less electricity. Because it gives you a better connection to the tracks. Unlike your stupid pins and your other c*** that draws all the power out of your transformer. Ga graves. allow your power to go to your locomotives.

[@user-qb1on5is6l]

tubular track is ok just remember many scale cars and locomotives run on different track and dont run well on tubular track due to square drive wheels standered rule of thumb is run old engines on new track not the other way around i run both styles on my 12x12 layout and have excelent luck with both dut all set aside its awesome you are happy THATS THE POINT OF TOY TRAINS!!!!!!!!

[@kenmunozatmmrrailroad6853]

I chose not to finish. I've got a whole house layout with some 4 to 5 hundred feet of the stuff and it works fine. Gotta maintain it like anything else. Also grew up with tubular- no thanks.

[@samsogaugetrains8670]

Whatever works for you!

[@joezuccardo3245]

Hello Sam, I think fast track looks like junk, The running rails aren't T shaped like real rails and the hollow plastic roadbed makes noise, O gauge tubular track has been around for a time and most O gaugers I know wouldn't use anything else, You can make a good looking roadbed for O gauge track that will look a lot better than fast track Good luck with your trains Sam

[@richardnelson-ux1zz]

Tubular track is thr best regardless of the manufacturer or menards tubular track

[@user-pd2ym8lj6j]

yes i agree fast track is the pits