“DON’T Visit QOM” Iran’s Second Most Religious City

Day 111. 60km (63798kms)
A sweaty but manageable night in the tent. I woke with the sunrise so was up and on my way by 07:30, the temperature at this time absolutely fine for cycling.
A truck stop midway fuelled me with a huge plate of eggs and bread for less than a dollar. They also offered to fill my bottles and sent my off with an additional 1.5 litre ice brick. I arrived.
Qom is Iran’s second holiest city on account of Hazurat-e-Masumeh the shrine to Imam Reza’s sister Fatemeh. Because it’s such a deeply religious place some people had expressed concerns about my visiting, and certainly it could feel like an intimidating place. On the streets you can see many clerics in robes and almost every woman wears a chador. The air is heavy with the smell of Sohan, Qom’s signature saffron brittle, like an extremely fancy and delicious Dime Bar.
And so I gratefully accepted the invitation I had received last night at the mosque. Thanks to my guides and with a loaned chador I was able to visit the city accompanied by my hosts who smoothed the way for me to enter otherwise restricted sites. And so my presence was even more of a novelty than usual in Iran. After the event my guide relayed a conversation he’d had with a mullah who’d flatly refused to accept I had cycled here; “It’s not possible”.
The shrine is indeed magnificent, mirrored, and moving. But on top of this we also visited the bazaar, carpet workshops, and a local restaurant. I feel exceptionally grateful to have had the opportunity to learn about life in Qom in this way.
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#iran #qom #travelvlog

[@amirmk725]

I always wanted to visit Qom. Very beautiful city. Im still very surprised and proud on how you made it there with a bike lol. I had friends who were too lazy to drive from Tehran to Isfahan haha. Consider joining the cycling marathon!

[@helsonwheels]

Ha! I used to be like that! Shall I visit my parents this weekend? No it’s a 2 hour drive 🤣🤦🏻‍♀️🤦🏻‍♀️

[@deepryce2957]

Hey intrigued by your biking travels - amazing! You’re so up beat. (I am your dads neighbour in Bewdley ) peace love and safe travels. X

[@helsonwheels]

Hi! 👋🏼 ah he’s my biggest fan! People often ask how my family feel about my adventures, but we were brought up to have ‘roots and wings’ 🌳 🦅 Thanks for saying hi!

[@David-yq2dp]

Wonderful video. I am considering joining your Patreon; will be the first one I ever subscribe to. The people of Iran seem so kind. I’m sorry but throughout this video and the description I can’t determine where you were biking *from* on your way to Qon. Best, David

[@helsonwheels]

Hi David! Thank you for watching! Yes, Iranians are the best, and yes you’re right; it’s unclear, in fact a Patreon supporter suggested I include a map from time to time so people could see where I’m going from and to, so I try to include one every week or two these days. Meanwhile you can see my route here; helsonwheels.bio.link by clicking ‘current route map’, and finally, I’d be thrilled if you chose to become a Patreon supporter 🌟 thank you for your consideration 🙂

[@m__r1100]

Wow 1 - that ceiling! Wow 2 - Ice and cold drinks! I've been cycling in 28*c today, and that felt way too warm...

[@helsonwheels]

Ahahaha they dreaaam of 28C days here 🤣 but in truth anything in the 30s is manageable for me with proper preparation 🌞

[@bidarvandi]

l love your personality,always smiling,positivness just like persian poet saadi shirazi every thing would happening in future welcom he was so realstic .some times we need to make a plan but a part of our character to be spontaneous just like visiting people and passing time with them .

[@helsonwheels]

Thank you! Yes, I like to plan, I’m not good at being spontaneous, but I’m working on it! 😁

[@abuturabshah65]

I LOVE IRAN ITS PEOPLE ITS FOOD GOD BLESS IRAN ITS REVOLUTION THEY ARE TRUE PEOPLE I LOVE HOLY SHRINES OF IRAN AND IRAQ AND SYRIA AND SAUDIA ONLY SHIA ISLAM IS TRUE RELIGION PLEASE STUDY ABOUT IMAM HUSSAIN ABUTURAB SHAH FROM AMERICA

[@helsonwheels]

Which revolution are we talking about?

[@helsonwheels]

Thanks, It was posted at the height of the Mahsa Amini protests so I wasn’t sure..

[@blackflag6976]

Why is it second? Which is the first most religious city in Iran?

[@helsonwheels]

Mashhad. If I understand correctly the only Imam to be buried in Iran is there. His sister is buried in Qom.

[@blackflag6976]

@@helsonwheels I see. Are the people of Iran quite religious in general, like turkey and Arab countries?

[@helsonwheels]

It’s difficult for me to say because I don’t meet a broad range of Iranian people; I mostly meet English speakers that are interested in speaking with foreigners. And based on that I would say, no, not overly religious. Certainly I don’t see the turnout at mosques that I did in Turkey say…

[@Hermesborugerdian]

The holiest city for Shias is Mashhad. But Qom is actually the most religious

[@helsonwheels]

Ohh interesting! Thanks! 😊

[@Hermesborugerdian]

Though most Iranians would not visit Qom lol I appreciate you going there and love you for saying “Sepas”. True way of Thanking in Persian

[@helsonwheels]

Thank you! Yea I’ve been forgetting that lately 😔 thanks for the reminder 😄 🌟

[@aref.r1083]

came to Shiraz

[@helsonwheels]

I hope to! 🥰🇮🇷

[@ellymostaan8480]

That bottle of frozen water definitely wasn’t tarof! 😉

[@helsonwheels]

Sooooooo kind!! 🥰🇮🇷😅

[@worldofmix6766]

I fought you're going to Gorgan and Then Turkmenistan But looks like you're going towards the south

[@helsonwheels]

I am! It’s getting pretty warm 😅🚴🏻‍♀️

[@kosican5147]

Wow this is amazing Hels the mosques architecture looks beautiful your friends u stayed with looks like nice people safe travels mate 😊👍🏽

[@helsonwheels]

Thank you!! Yes, I was so lucky to meet such nice people to guide me in a city that otherwise might’ve been tricky to visit 🥰🇮🇷

[@shujatviran]

I am from qom

[@helsonwheels]

Hi! I had such I lovely stay in Qom! 🤩

[@iraj2786]

You have changed with your ZCHADOR..HAHAHA

[@helsonwheels]

What do you think? Black is slimming right 😂

[@iraj2786]

@@helsonwheels you are nice..before and after..kiss

[@helsonwheels]

Thanks 😁

[@mansurtxafapapaias3517]

@@helsonwheels Pretty & kindly Aussie acent, the best.

[@helsonwheels]

Thank you! 🇮🇷 🐨🇦🇺

[@ellymostaan8480]

You nailed the pronunciation of Qom! 👏👏

[@helsonwheels]

Yay!! Thank you 😃👌🏼👌🏼

[@helsonwheels]

Ps I recently taught our mutual friend the difference between ‘nailed it’ and ‘nailed her’ 😂🤣

[@bohi3608]

خسته نباشی مهمان ❤😃

[@helsonwheels]

I can’t read this but it looks friendly, so thanks! 😃🇮🇷😍

[@hamedMLKNiksadat]

🌻🌻🌼🌼🌼🌻🌻🌹🌹🌹😅😍

[@helsonwheels]

😄🚴🏻‍♀️🇮🇷🥰

[@TheDen_Al-Arin]

Respected mam Why are you traveling on bicycle instead of car?

[@helsonwheels]

Hi! 👋🏼 great question! *It’s essentially free - no petrol, * it’s good exercise, * it’s a nice pace at which to visit a country, not too fast, not too slow. *You feel the country better; every climb, every descent, the smells, the sights.. *People often come introduce themselves because they’re interested in your trip so you meet many cool people this way. I’m sure I’m forgetting something but these are the main ones..

[@TheDen_Al-Arin]

@@helsonwheels Respect Mam Thank you for your prompt reply. As far as I know, in Iran Petrol is very cheap. You already seem so healthy, fit and gorgeous that you should not have taken the risk of traveling alone on a bicycle and you spent nights in a tent without any security. This is foolishness. . I do not travel alone in my country as you traveled. Please take care of yourself. Life does not come again. Best Regards Ali Akbar

[@helsonwheels]

Thank you for your concern. It is important to take care camping in any country. In fact I rarely camped in Iran because I could afford guest houses there and was even invited into people’s homes. I appreciate your concern but I do believe that because the vast majority of people mean us no harm we should not waste our one life being afraid 🚴🏻‍♀️

[@averagejoe4268]

The second biggest, holiest shrine (that is in Qom) belongs to a girl.

[@helsonwheels]

Yes I noticed that too 🙂

[@chado3138]

You are welcome in Qom,I love it here ❤🇮🇷

[@helsonwheels]

Thank you! 😃

[@parsa8273]

I can't believe this happend😂😂

[@helsonwheels]

Which part? Visiting Qom? 🙂☪️ the abaya? 😆 which part?! 🤣

[@parsa8273]

@@helsonwheels visiting Qom Because I live in this city and it is impossiable that a woman bike. But I love to talk to foreign people, If you come to Qom again we can meet each other and see the whole city I am parsa 20 and nice to meet you dear.🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏼

[@helsonwheels]

I am living proof it is possible for a woman to cycle into Qom 😜🚴🏻‍♀️

[@Bulb823]

YA HUSSAIN 🙏🏼

[@helsonwheels]

🇮🇷 ✌🏼 🕊️

[@asemanomide5951]

Mashhad is beautiful if you go

[@helsonwheels]

So I hear… next time I hope.. 🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼

[@aliakberasharia8168]

I am born in Qum

[@helsonwheels]

Nice city 🏙

[@shiasofbarasageer1635]

U look so beautiful in Hijab...

[@helsonwheels]

Thank you. I’m not sure I do, but happy to wear it voluntarily in religious places. May the women of Iran and Afghanistan be free to choose what they wear..

[@shiasofbarasageer1635]

@@helsonwheels What about France?

[@helsonwheels]

Yeah, it’s an interesting one isn’t it. Myself, I’m all for keeping religion and religious indoctrination out of state bodies such as schools etc. but limiting religious clothing *everywhere* is something else. I’m afraid that some families wouldn’t allow female members of the family out of the house without hijab thus imprisoning them.. so yeah I am uncomfortable with France’s position.. so yeah ok; may women be free to wear what they want (outside of religious or state settings) in Iran, Afghanistan, and France! ✌🏼

[@shiasofbarasageer1635]

@@helsonwheels Hijab is compalsary in Iran,,so every one fallow the rule ..Those who came into the street in the name of Hijab r those Mujahedeen Khalaq terrorist and there supporter which r against the Islamic revolution ..Behind all these roits Zoinst,,America,,Europe and some Arab dictators..Islamic republic never surrender infront of thz goons,,so now the situation is totally different..Islamic Revolution supporter not only in iran,,,but in the whole world ..U know how Hezbollah defeated isreal in 2006..But at the end Zoinst isreal and America have no space to stay in the Islamic countries ,,sa soon as possible the should leave..Free world from American Hegemony..Western culture is like Animals,,what they wear infront of family is so terrible..

[@helsonwheels]

You are dreaming! I personally know women protesting mandatory hijab in Iran. They are Iranians, not European or American props, but Iranians who are sick of being dictated to by the Islamic state. By the way, you appear to support women’s right to wear hijab in France, but not women’s right *not* to wear hijab in Iran?

[@amirali-bn2rv]

زمانى که رنج و زحمت و گرفتارى به شما رو آورد، به قم روى آورید، زیرا قم پناهگاه فاطمی‌ها و محل آسایش مؤمنان است

[@helsonwheels]

Thank you, I am very happy and lucky to visit Qom in this way

[@Claxiux]

The way people are good in Iran, it really feels like heaven

[@helsonwheels]

Yes!! Amaaaaaazing people 🥰🥰

[@lionliing.gamedev]

Of your kindness🌹🌹🌹

[@helsonwheels]

🇮🇷😍💔

[@hosseina.l8266]

They are good with foreigners, not with their own countryman

[@helsonwheels]

I’ve heard this from some Iranian friends of mine, and it saddens me to hear 😔

[@thebadseed5761]

Are you crazy? What is going on in qom that you have visited it 😐😐😐

[@helsonwheels]

The guide book recommends visiting the shrine, the bazaar, and the mosque 🙂

[@thebadseed5761]

@@helsonwheels where are you from?

[@helsonwheels]

Australia 🦘😃 🐨

[@thebadseed5761]

@@helsonwheels wow, I really love koala 🐨 but I have never seen them at close range 😥😥😥

[@helsonwheels]

The population is falling fast 😔 I hope you can see one in the future 🐨🐨🐨