Donkey Kong demonstration Gadget cache under construction

Working demonstration of my Donkey Kong gadget cache I am making.

[@arlingtontrains7]

Very cool indeed!

[@TheBushdoctor68]

It's incredibly nicely built, but I have my doubts about the speed of the mechanism. Compared to the drill, it seems that it would take forever with a handcrank, needing hundreds of manual rotations. Then again, getting to sign the log after all that hard work would be very satisfying. :) Very nice sir!

[@skimbulshanks]

Yes the wheel was not the best option. Some day I will do my homework and build a geared crank to replace the existing set up.

[@TheBushdoctor68]

​@@skimbulshanks Actually, I was wondering if a geared crank was intended for this, but at the same time I was wondering how long that would hold up with dozens of wildly enthusiastic users. :) I'm just starting as a CO, but I've already got quite a few designs on paper, and one of them is a Donkey Kong box, VERY similar in appearance to yours (obviously, because that's what the game looks like), but with a different game design. The cache would basically be a cross-over between your box and that famous cache where you have to use 2 metal rods from both sides, to maneuver a disc up to the top, passed several obstacles. I'm sure you've seen it online or maybe in real life even. So, basically you would be playing the game of Donkey Kong in reverse, where you have to try and move his barrel UP the ramps, by sticking 2 rods into the box, from both sides, through specific slots, one slot for each ramp. You use those rods to bring the barrel up the ramps, where the most dangerous spots will be the switch from one ramp to the other. (There would have to be space on the sides of the ramps to accommodate the barrel passing through, of course). The rods used in the "disc-cache" were straight, but I've also seen a similar box that required to maneuver a small pill bottle to the top. The rods used there had a "forked" ending which allowed much better control of the object in the box. I think that would work nicely on a barrel-shaped object as well. Those forked rods were made from two pieces of thick twisted metal wire, like what they use for handles of certain kitchen tools, like a potato masher. The slots in the sides of the box were vertical, to accommodate the forked rods fitting, and being moved from left to right a bit. I just thought I'd throw this out there. Perhaps it's useful to you some day. Have a good day sir!

[@skimbulshanks]

@@TheBushdoctor68 interesting…. I’m going to reread this and think deep. I like your idea. I must add this into my little red book of ideas/ plans. Thanks for sharing. One thing I try to factor in a design is to keep the play pieces contained or sealed within as much as possible. It saves on maintenance and replacing items.

[@TheBushdoctor68]

@@skimbulshanks Great to have inspired you! I hope you get to that red book page sooner than I get to mine. :) Both rods were in fact included in the cache, hanging from the sides. If I remember correctly, they are hidden by the front cover that also covered the sides, and the whole front+sides hinged downward to play the game. I will try to find a link to the video that I'm referring to. Visuals works so much better than an amateurish description. :)

[@TheBushdoctor68]

@@skimbulshanks Found it! kzbin.info/www/bejne/qmW2fWl6bs6crZYsi=cKHGeOTo4cK2ksxZ&t=86 The link contains a time stamp to where the cache is featured. I think this principle would work great for a Donkey Kong box. If you look at the original game graphics, the ramps aren't smooth, but they are sections placed at different heights, basically forming steps, and if that could be replicated for a cache, those "bumps" would make for excellent obstacles to get the barrel passed on your way to the top. The cache in this video requires taking out the "barrel" on top, but I like your option better where it stays inside the box, and releases a separate log book.

[@speleo09]

I'm not sure I understand how the falling bearing triggers the tube release.

[@skimbulshanks]

the tube release has a pvc rod glued onto its lever. (plastic welding rod) The pipe that the ball travels in, has a slot cut in the side of the pipe. The rod is placed through the cut out slot in the pipe. As the ball falls down, it pushes the rod down and out of its way. This causes the rod to push down the latch and release the preform. I glued extra metal on the levers underside to act as some balance weight so the ball can tip the rod with less force. As a side note, the lever, as shown in this video was made from plastic. I was wanting to use material that will not rust or rot. But the plastic broke while a geocacher was pushing the preform back in. I have now changed this out to metal. I am using steel banding from shipping crates. Cut and bent as required. It is a nice spring steel type of metal.