Dust Collector Test Measure & Review

In this wrap-up to the dust collection series, Steve reviews the JDS 2100-CKV dust collector, measures CFM, dB, vibration, tests for leaks, and even sees if the unit can pass the dreaded "nickel test."
Don't forget, if you want to "dive deeper" into the whole subject of dust collection ductwork, static control, and more, Popular Woodworking and Steve will be hosting a live webinar on March 20 at 8PM EDT.

[@smellybathroom]

Always refreshing woodworking videos without all the flash in typical woodworking videos. Thank you

[@mattprzybylski19]

Great video series Steve and thank you for the detailed explanations of everything. Your hard work is always appreciated. Learned a ton of useful things.

[@madhungarian3024]

I nearly had a Red Green moment the other day. I bought that Pyle anemometer, and started to measure the CFM of my dust collector, but i wasn't holding the anemometer tightly enough, and it almost got sucked into the dust collector. I just barely caught the thing as it was disappearing. Straight out of something Red Green would've done.

[@eddraper]

Very nice work Steve. The numbers and the methodologies used in this series were very enlightening.

[@Jeff_369]

Great video series!!! It's very nice of you to sure this with all of us.

[@devogle7905]

Thank you very much, very helpful. I have been using a HF dust collector for the past two years and am now ready to install a Cyclone system. I have found all your video's very helpful in making my decision. Really appreciate the detail you put in to them.

[@HenSchum]

Dear Steve, I want to thank you for your great videos, about the dust collection, all your videos are great to look at, but the dust collection hat my extra interest at this moment. I love the way how you make your videos, with so much detail, it's really unbelievable, or I'm sitting next to you. Your way off video making is for my from of extra much value, 13 years ago I hat a "accident" during my work (police officer) and sins than my greatest hobby, woodworking, is almost over for me. If I have a great day I can do for about 30 minutes, something in my little shop, but mostly I sit with tears in my eyes in my shop, looking around. This is not to be pitifully, because there are many mutts more terrible things as me, but I want indicate how gladly I look at your videos. 90% off the day im lieing on my bed and than this kind off videos are for my lifesaving. Thanks again Steve and keep on your great way off woodworking.

[@johngilson7085]

Great series and very in-depth. Looking forward to the shop tour.

[@ronh9384]

Another excellent video Steve and the accent reminds me of home. 😊 Thanks. Ron

[@Normambo]

Great vid. I got some take away elements from your video; to start with, i'll get myself an "Anemometer". Got that one right from you. Thanks

[@manny3549]

loved this series! thanks Steve! great work!

[@prsearls]

That is a very nice installation and system. Mine is 20+ years old and uses four and five inch hoses, not very sophisticated but my garage shop is for hobby use. It's used on only three machines.

[@wcraft]

Wow - I feel like I just stumbled on Dr. Johnny Fever (WKRP) dropping some great dust collection tips. I know it's from 2014 but is just what I was looking for. Thanks

[@hughmac13]

That's a real nickel! Love your videos, DTEW.

[@spacemanrick2014]

Love this video, I remember watching it 3 years ago. Look into wall sound absorbsion panels to mount in those sloping attic walls to decrease the overall noise you hear in the shop down stairs. Could help. I wouldn't blanket the entire wall surface in them, but just enough to absorb some reflections. Also, with an app like Frequensee, or Audio Tool, you can see the frequency of the loudest sound wave, and plan your method of noise attenuation accordingly.

[@jakegevorgian]

Thank you for the in-depth review and efforts. Very helpful information.

[@Gunkaleh]

Beautiful. Great job, Steve.

[@larscw74]

Great video. Going from 8 to 6 inch basically means your machine power carries for longer so you end up having more suction power in the lower woodshop. It's good you found out about the static buildup or you might have ended up in fire in the tubing.

[@garydelder]

Thanks for all the info. I was wondering how all of it came out for you. Thanks again it looks like your satisfied with all the results. Great

[@afxtwns]

I tell you what Steve, I like your stuff. Well done.

[@downtoearthwoodworks]

Thank you sir!

[@stevenalford-purvis7613]

Yes, it only took a few times getting zapped by the hose on my DW735 for me to install a grounding wire. They certainly build up a static charge. Thanks.

[@BackyardWoodworking]

Great video and a very nice system you have there. Good Luck to you. Roland

[@stevekinnaird6835]

Thanks for sharing. I thoroughly enjoyed a 4 episodes.

[@JakeRaytheRounder]

I don't know if i care for that flapper noise! Think it would get me every time. Also thanks for being the mellow Bob Ross of woodworking videos

[@csimet]

Here in the future (2022), Schedule 40 pipe is crazy expensive... and not just for 8 or 6 inch versions, but 4 inch as well. I went with SDR 35 (drain pipe)... about half the cost of schedule 40 PVC at any size. Much easier to cut and install as well. It may not color match the white SDR 35 fittings, as the pipe is blue/green, but who cares! 6 inch main off my Grizzly G0944 & Oneida Super Dust Deputy XL to the center of the shop, then splits to two 4 inch runs to my needed locations (with y-fittings, blast gates and short runs of flex hose to the tools). With the Oneida DD and its ability to remove 99% before it hits the Grizzly, I'm not a fan of the auto canister flapper, as it may cause too much wear and tear to the canister. You are better with it, because your separator is harder to access being upstairs.

[@tomthomas334]

You reminded me of smudge sticks, I love the smell of the sage, need to get some soon. Good video

[@downtoearthwoodworks]

Thanks!

[@davidkuhns8389]

Very thorough, as always.

[@newzealandfromadjimini2cor452]

Please note for information .. over sizing ducts causes a drop in air velocity which in turn allows more of the heavier partials to drop out of the air flow.

[@Rbugland]

Great video. Thanks for sharing. I hope to install something like that in my new shop.

[@MRrwmac]

Great informative series. Looks like you're getting more than needed CFM at all your stations! Congrats! One of the many things I learned from this series is that with higher CFM you will also get a high noise level from the air flow itself even if you soundproof the machine. Did you mention (or did I miss) you telling us the cost of the machine and the ducting piping (with accessories)? Very nice arrangement and piping of stations. Especially like the floor sweep! Thanks for sharing.

[@downtoearthwoodworks]

I think the JDS dust collector is going for about $1500 now. I spent a little over $600 for all the ductwork, static control, and yes, the floor sweep :) I should mention that now, many months in, the system is actually working better than ever! I love it. Thanks for watching!

[@diverhose]

Thank you! Great videos! Lots of luck with shop! BTW, you got a nice video persona. You should have your own tv show!

[@jayfoster5756]

Unfortunately JDS no longer sell their Dust Force collectors. Mine is starting fail after 8 years of good . use. Will need to replace it soon. Thanks for the video.

[@derKarl_stp]

the soundlevel might be lower with only a flex pipe attached as the hard pvc pipe is pretty much a large resonating volume and the high flow of air in the pipe itself is kinda loud as well... and so is the whole structure where the DC stands on in movement... you might be able to get lower noise when you test the same unit on a flat concrete floor with only a flex pipe attached to it at least that is what I figured out often when visiting workshops... the more open (uninsulated) pipes, the harder the pipes, the louder the system gets, especially when some parts are not being dampened by rubber shimming or covered in insulation and hidden behind soundboard greetings from a new viewer from Lower Austria oh by the way... the more curves and bends you have in the line the more the flow gets restricted as well... I have seen those Issues myself in welding areas of fab shops where they had a centeral smoke extraction system... they added one extra bend (90°) because of a new positioning onf the machines as they changed the layout... and the suction was gone down drastically... so they then added a small inline fan between two 45° bows and guess what... now it sucked too good... so they had to bring down the speed of the system... pretty funny how different bow configs as well as supporting fans can limit and boost systems

[@downtoearthwoodworks]

+Andakar Your observations are correct. I do have the unit mounted on sound dampening feet (the kind sold to go under clothes washers and dryers) and I put in a rubber connector between the machine and the first piece of pipe to provide some vibration separation, but the air flowing through the pipe itself creates sound and the fact that my unit is on the second floor does allow some vibration transmission through.

[@derKarl_stp]

downtoearthwoodworks I am sure you would get different readings on concrete floor with a flex pipe between the rigid and the DC unit itself :) the rubber connection might help a bit but is still stiff enough... what I meant was rubbermounts for the whole pipe assembly like thick soft rubber shimms between the wall and the pipe allowing to detach from the resonating volume itself (but that would be a lot of work to get done and quite expensive) the airflow would still be loud but it would be less noisy if it would be on a rigid and stable not vibrating surface... got a easy test to check for changes... db meter and smartphone... position the db meter 6 feet from your testrange, hold the smartphone about 4 feet above the ground and play a ringtone... check the level and then lay it on the wooden floor and repeat with 4 feet distance... for normal the phone gets quite some bump in the level

[@Sandhillwoodworks]

Great work Steve and a nice system.

[@russrusselson2136]

this is so cool, very impresive

[@SkunkTreeCarvings]

great video series.thanks.

[@HITASCL]

Thank you very much for the video. btw. rough the surface of the pvc up a little, where you want to stick your conductive glue. may then it will hold.

[@spkendrick]

That voice! Soothing. James Earl Jones

[@RussellPecot]

Very nice. Looks like your floor sweep blast gate is installed backwards. (14:11)

[@downtoearthwoodworks]

I have seen recommendations to install the blast gates the other way (thumbscrew on bottom) to effect a better seal and to eliminate "rattling." I did install this one "backwards" according to those recommendations. By the time I realized it, I was too lazy to take it all apart again and change it :) All the other blast gates are installed the "correct" way. I have not noticed any rattling with this one blast gate, nor any noticeable leakage (smoke test), but I think the recommendations (and you) are correct! Install them with the thumbscrew away from the airflow direction.

[@dalewilliamson1125]

Great info. Thanks for sharing.

[@TairnKA]

Looking good. You must be fairly tall, I don't think I could reach that high (5' 7") plus I believe that having a minimum amount of corrugated tubing is best. You said the collectors motor is 2 HP (3450 RPM / 1700 CFM), My workshop would be in half a two car garage so I'll need a unit that is very compact. I'll most likely build one using my 3 HP (??) wet/dry vacuum motor and place it in an insolated enclosure (80 DB, is 2 hi). You've given me some ideas, thank-you for the time. :-)

[@jimw6991]

Nicely done, hopefully you still answer comments. I converted my 1.5 Jet single stage bag d.c. to two stage using a large cannister filter and a thien style baffle. Started noticing reduction in pressure and found inside of filter caked with dust. After blowing with air hose, dust still trapped deep in pleats until I used a risk broom to dislodge and really get end of hose between pleats. Have you taken your filters off yet? Wondering how effective the brush action is when you shut dc off, in preventing filter from clogging. Thinking about getting a cyclone machine with this feature.

[@cillyede]

Very interesting!

[@eWood_q8]

Thank you for the review, it was very informative. By the way, I did enjoy it!

[@crazymanmichael8386]

enjoyed your video series. did you have a look at the joe woodworker site on dust collection by any chance? very informative regarding the necessary air volumes to effectively remove fine particulates...

[@mark-dd2oq]

Now that you have measured specifications for CFM and noise. Noise was a magnitude and then some(actual 89dB vs 74dB spec). CFM readings were 560 and 600 or so, spec 1700 CFM. Have you gone back to figure out the drop in CFM due to pipe size and turns to see if it proves the drop? Oh, where you able to measure at the machine inlet? A lot of us only have the mfg specs to go by and folks like you that take put these together so we have to come to a conclusion primarily based on both. Do you feel the mfg specs are still correct or do they warrant a footnote?

[@spacemanrick2014]

markey espinosa, I'm thinking the 1700CFM is right at the machine. I don't know if it is required to test with filter on to make such a claim. Depending on air velocity in the pipe, and the radius of bends in the pipe, for every 1/4 turn, is like adding a substantial length of pipe to the system. The noise dB difference could be measurements taken at JDS were A-weighted, and in a larger room with less sound reflections. Steve didn't specify if he was measuring in A-weighted mode on his meters, but he did mention that his small room with walls just as far as the microphone, could increase the sound pressure.

[@ronhampe]

Your videos are excellent! I recently purchased a used JDS 3100-ck and getting ready to duct it in. With the exception of my table and miter saws which have a dedicated dust collector all of my larger tools are on mobile bases and and will be moved to the drop rather than having drops at each. My 18" Oliver 399 planer and 18" Kuster double drum sander will require the most cfm and I am curious if you think that I will see a significant increase in cfm by going with 8" for the first 33' (9' vertically then 24' horizontally across the attic) and then reducing that to 6" for the last 6' to the drop which will then be reduced to 4" as needed for the particular tool . To reduce cost, I am going with 24 gauge spiral duct work and fittings (joints will be sealed with foil tape) from a local manufacturer rather than pvc. Thank you

[@mrlysle1]

Steve, couldn't you have just wrapped each fitting, like the elbows, and wyes, with one or two wraps, instead of trying to stick the wire to them? Nice job on the system. I'd love to have one!

[@downtoearthwoodworks]

Jeffrey Fluharty I did a one-hour webinar for Popular Woodworking on this whole subject... i.e. PVC pipe, static dissipation, etc. The use of screws was to provide a point dissipation/static collection point inside the pipe (where the tip of the screw pokes through). As I didn't glue up the PVC, the screws also hold the PVC connections together. Your suggestion of "in and out" on a single connector is certainly valid, but I wanted to make sure I could easily disassemble a section of the system in the future if I need to move something. Thanks so much... great questions and ideas!

[@eherlitz]

Not bad! 570 cfm is about 970 m3/h for the rest of the world

[@MrFaltek]

Very informative Video, i took a lot of notes ! But for a better reading of the CFM with the meters, would it be more precise ( and higher reading ) if you sealed the tube around the "fan" that does the measurement ? Thanks !

[@downtoearthwoodworks]

Oh yes... I followed the instructions from the anemometer manufacturer... But, I did try "sealing" around the fan blade (just using my hands) and the anemometer went off the scale... it wouldn't read the airspeed, it was too high.

[@duwaynemathews4172]

Love your videos. I thought my dust collection system (Harbor Freight unit with 1440 cfm) was adequate. However after using the anemometer to check the cfm at the end of the run it only figured .. 0.40 . Your test showed immensely better in the area of 6.0. Now I am disappointed in my system. My air velocity without putting in the area figures of .087 shows 6.0 or close to that. >?

[@MAGAMAN]

I wish people would stop buying the garbage Harbor Freight sells. Buying something at half the price of a quality item, but having to replace it every year or two does not save any money in the long term, but does force quality manufacturers out of business.

[@saritsotangkur2438]

I wonder if the "u" in you pipe configuration at 13:20 can be eliminated by keeping the horizontal pipe straight and rotating the wye away from the wall. Hopefully this makes sense.

[@dennispatterson686]

How do you know if the hose is getting static electricity? What kinds of effects or damage can occur from this?

[@PGC1948]

Can't help wondering what CFM reading you would get if you opened up the necessary gates to allow the motor to reach full potential. Your machine came with a 7" intake and that is probably what it will take to max out the motor, ie, max amp draw. Since you piped it down to 6", maybe check to see what the CFM reading would be with two gates open, a 4' gate open on two different trunk lines. I don't have a gauge to check CFM but I believe if you open enough gates to to equal the intake size (sq. in.) of the machine, the CFM reading will increase because you are not choking the motor down. I don't know if my theory is correct or not but I have a similar size machine and I always open two 4" gates and one 2" gate even if I am only using one of them. I used an amp meter to see what my system did as I opened gates. The more gates I opened the the more amps the motor pulled until I reached the max amp draw of the motor. The higher the amp draw, the harder the motor is working thus moving more air. Just wondering if my theory is correct! I really enjoy your videos, waiting on next part of table build.

[@downtoearthwoodworks]

It is true that manufacturers rate amperage draw at "wide open" or quote amperage at a lower level when the intake duct is reduced in size. I will take some air flow measurements with two gates open and report back on the results. Thanks for watching!

[@jimw6991]

@@downtoearthwoodworks Did you ever sort this out? It would be great to see flow measurements with six versus 4 inch pipe and comparison of smooth versus corrugated flex pipe. I have found an expensive flex pipe with inside being almost smooth ... it is expensive, very heavy and I am guessing air frictional loss close to spiral steel pipe. Would be nice to measure.

[@GoNavy429]

Great video. I bought one of these Pyle PMA90 anemometers and for the life of me can't get it to read right. What area settings did you use for a four inch hose. I also have some 2 1/2 inch hose.

[@downtoearthwoodworks]

***** Mark, the anemometer's directions are a bit "obscure." You have to calculate the area of the hose or pipe, which is the radius (2") squared times Pi, but then you have to convert that to square feet by dividing by 144 (square inches in a square foot). With a 4" pipe the square foot area will be something like 0.087. Then make sure when programming the anemometer that the decimal place is in the right spot.... then it should read correctly. Hope that helps...

[@steveadams4009]

Does it make any difference whether you glue the fittings or just jam them together

[@dukegraham8310]

I have the pyle PMA90 and would love to know what area you pipe in for pipe size. I have 50ft of 6in with three drops. HELP!

[@FriendM2010]

Great stuff... Mad Scientist :)

[@phillipmedghalchi5378]

Steve, could you tell me what are the name of apps you have on your phone for vibration and sound decibels, please?

[@lynnwelling6851]

Steve, Do you seal the pipes with anything, or is the dry fit tight enough? Thanks!

[@downtoearthwoodworks]

Lynn, the pipe fits deeply into the fittings so other than the screws that hold the joint together (and my grounding wires) I did not use anything else. I tested each joint with a "smudge" --- a type of incense that puts out a lot of smoke --- and did not find any leaks. If you have trouble getting the joints in the PVC pushed all the way together (which can happen since the joints are "dry") you can put a little soapy water on the joints. The water will dry after assembly.

[@neelode]

So? You're advertising the JDS??? Just how much did that set you back? Or, maybe I should ask how much it would cost ME???????

[@rkdv]

Steve, your dust collector is in a different room from your shop, do you have any issues with that? I plan to do the same thing, shop in the basement and dust collector upstairs in the garage, I am trying to figure out if I need to provide a method of 'closing the loop' to allow air back into the shop.

[@downtoearthwoodworks]

Hi Ryan... my dust collector is upstairs and there is nothing restricting the exchange of air between floors. If your basement shop is well sealed, you might need to provide some "make-up" air for the dust collector, but if your basement is like mine, it shouldn't be a problem. Air will be "leaking" into the basement from all over the house, under the door, through cracks, through ductwork, etc. In fact, if you have a bit of "negative" air pressure in the basement, that might be a good thing, as it will help keep dust out of the rest of the house. Be mindful of the length of the run between the dust collector and the shop itself... you can consult with the manufacturer for guidance as to whether or not you might need a larger system to overcome the distance if it is a longish run. Frankly, you will enjoy having the dust collector in a separate space since the noise will be reduced dramatically, and emptying the thing will likely be a lot easier from your garage rather than hauling the bucket up the basement stairs. And keeping an eye on the fill level in the dust collection "bucket" can be problematic when the dust collector is in a separate space. Over time you will get a "feel" for when it needs to be emptied, and you will likely pretty much be "right on." By the way, my personal best record for filling (and emptying) my dust collector is 11 times in one day! It was a long day! Take care...

[@MT-rg4dm]

Hello great video had a question what was the purpose of the blast gates? thank you

[@downtoearthwoodworks]

+Gloria Capra Blast gates are used like valves to block or allow the flow of air. The name "blast gate" is a bit misleading (probably borrowed from some other industry)... they should probably be called "air valves" or "suction valves."

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Hey Steve. You got me really interested in the JDS system. When I went to their website all their dust collecting systems say "out of stock". Any idea what's going down? Maybe it's a seasonal inventory thing?

[@downtoearthwoodworks]

It is my understanding that they are moving their manufacturing back to the U.S. and are in the process of getting set up. I have heard that if you call them they will give you an updated estimate of when they will have units back in stock.

[@paulsDIYsolutions]

Thanx Steve

[@bigdogmn73]

Hey Steve still happy with the dust collection system?

[@broken1965]

use foil tape the good stuff for fiber glass duct

[@jasonhunn4865]

Hello sir! Where did you get the copper wire? Having trouble finding some.

[@MichaelMendozaMagic]

Look at your local welding store, they usually have copper wire. Or buy a electric cable and peel of the cable insulation.

[@crazymanmichael8386]

radio shack. lowes

[@spkendrick]

does JDS still sell dust collectors ??

[@mrlifetime64]

where can i get the y and floor sweep and all the fittings -blast gates ...

[@downtoearthwoodworks]

The pipe and fittings are from Charlotte Pipe. "Google" them, and on their site you can find a list of local dealers. The floor sweep can be purchased from almost all online woodworking suppliers including Rockler and Woodcraft.

[@mrlifetime64]

i would like to purchase a unit just like yours-i see there back ordered...? how do i get one..?

[@downtoearthwoodworks]

Not sure you can get the same one anymore. I would recommend contacting the manufacturer directly.

[@clydestribling2327]

I bet your wife is going to be pretty mad when she finds out you took her dryer vent hose !

[@jram1852]

Just a advice keep your videos shorter,,,