Makita SP6000 Track Saw Review

[@wildonemeister]

Reviews like this are priceless for those considering buying something. A huge THANK YOU for putting the time and effort into this! The saw made my "wanted" list without much doubt now :)

[@DPShopTalk]

+wildonemeister glad to hear that you found the review helpful. It's definitely been a good saw for me.

[@privateportall]

A review after 3yrs of use is actually the most valuable review. Thanks! Subbed

[@mikes6844]

I've had my Makita track saw for 4 years now and slowly increased in use. Together with your parallel guides I have ripped large sheet stock with very good accuracy. I do sometimes compare with the Festool, but the price point and usage were a big deciding factor. Now I'm progressing towards a MPT/MFT, I see the usage increase as the only thing that put me off was the accuracy of my cuts as I wanted square and parallel cuts, so the combination of both will do fine. Thanks Paul - I revisit many of your vids as I find I get something else out them each time I play them. Regards Mike

[@DPShopTalk]

+Mike S glad you find the videos helpful. Sounds like your setup is coming together.

[@AzWineNut]

Hi Dan, Thank you for the in-depth review! This kind of pro user tool review has great value, and is a confirmation the my decision making was good. I, too, bought the Makita saw based on the same features you point out in your review, as well as its' compatibility to the Festool track. The significant difference in cost was helpful, too. I bought my Makita SP6000J and Festool MFT-3 last May, to replace and enhance the cross cut capacity and accuracy of my old but venerable Dewalt Radial Arm Saw. I did so due to always finding the limitations of the RAS. ( I have to say, I wish I had seen your design before I bought the Festool MFT-3, but the results are worthwhile.) My application is for a personal hobbyist shop. Thanks again.

[@DPShopTalk]

+Gerry Rovner thanks for the comments, glad you found it helpful.

[@TheTylerWhit]

Note: I upgraded to 48T Oshlun blade before I made a cut kzbin.infoUgkxvWxw4589nheZ_QlYwqaZpnQExQfvjV4_ This said, when combined with the Powertec 71153 track, the cut was glass-smooth and as straight as an arrow with no tear out! I was dubious about the kick-back preventer as it is a very simple, plastic device; but, it worked perfectly and is very easy to disengage when necessary. Simple and functional is often the best way of doing anything! Festool can keep its over-priced TS-55 and TS-75! Who needs such a pricey tool when an inexpensive, simple one does the job?! Very pleased! DFYNT Dtrain - KZbin www.youtube.com

[@hmmmm9821]

great to see a independent review from someone who is actually using the tool thanx

[@ThePhiloctopus]

I've been trying to decide which track saw to get, and had narrowed my list down to Makita and Festool (for cross-compatibility). This video gave the the confidence to get the Makita. I am so glad I did! With some experimenting I have managed to almost eliminate all chipping from big-box (cheap) double sided melamine, previously a nightmare to work with. I had resorted to rough cutting to size and then routing to exact dimensions, all with home made track jigs. A total nightmare. Now I don't even need to clamp anything! I am also lucky; both tracks I got are straight, and 'agree' with my 2.4m straightedge. Next purchase will be to get the 3m track, and cut one of my 1.4m tracks down to ~900mm for cross cuts. Thanks heaps for your in-depth review!

[@DPShopTalk]

+ThePhiloctopus glad to hear you found the review helpful!

[@jakebirkmaier5703]

Hey any update on that track saw? I’m mostly worried about making straight line rips on 16’ boards. They have to be almost perfectly straight for what I do.

[@DPShopTalk]

I've actually had better success with the Bosch saw and rails and that's what I use now.

[@brenttaylor4785]

I had this saw since it was introduced and really enjoyed it. I have added a longer cord, but am still thinking of adding a Festool's cord adapter. As for other things most of the Festool's track components will fit the Makita track and vice versa (some need slight modifications to fit the tip part of the Makita track, just a saw cut, that does not harm it's ability to continue to work on the Festool's track ). An additional thing I use is the DeWalt's track clamps, they are the best way to go. Another cost savings is to use the Makita hoses, they are cheaper, anti-static and fit the Festool's line of tools, ie; routers, sanders, saws and associated parts.

[@DPShopTalk]

Thanks for sharing your experiences and tips! A longer cord would be a great addition for sure.

[@nickbianchi]

Thanks. I just ordered that one as I got frustrated by the high price of the Bosch here in Switzerland (or nearby Germany). 100 euros difference! For my humble DIY projects, this Makita will do just fine.

[@timb.4902]

Thank you! The details go above and beyond the printed manual, an absolutely essential video!

[@TheWatchit45]

I purchased the Festool track saw and I have been very happy with it. I wish it had the anti tip feature but I don't do a lot of bevel cuts so it's not a huge deal breaker. Makita's score feature is very cool. Festool's tracks are dead on straight but it would be nice if they used an allen key set screw on there track connector instead of a slotted screw, easy to switch out.

[@DPShopTalk]

+Steve good to know that the Festool tracks are dead on. I've been tempted to get some Festool rails since the Makita saw will work with them. I was definitely disappointed with the Makita rails and it's really too bad because the saw itself is great.

[@petergoodwin4337]

Hi, I watched your Vidio on the Makita 6000 and decided to buy one, so you have at least 1 person who purchased from your review, I also found it was lighter and and much easy to use, the features were very good and I was able to buy at a very good price. I am very inpresed with your Multi Purpose Table and circular saw cross-cut jig. will be making mine with a few alterachions to suit me, but will be buy the plans. Regards Peter (Essex U. K. )

[@DPShopTalk]

+Peter Goodwin glad you found the review helpful. The MPT jigs are definitely a great complement to any track saw and make the work flow that much more efficient and accurate.

[@djfglobal3377]

I have my refurbished sp6000 with me at the kitchen table following along and learning the knobs etc , thanks a ton for the great video we really enjoyed it. Subscribed

[@djfglobal3377]

Also- is the 56 tooth blade(got one for free) the same width as the 48 tooth that comes with the saw? Just concerned about messing up the anti-chip strip

[@garywallen7789]

Excellent review, clear conscise, well thought out. Liked getting the goods and the bads. Many thanks,

[@mmd1957]

Many thanks, I bought a Makita due to other reviews that said how good this was, I was looking for something to show in detail the features (I don't find their manuals very clear) and found your review, thank you for a clear explanation of how the saw works, I feel better able now to use it. Excellent review btw!

[@DPShopTalk]

+Mike Shipman glad to hear you found it helpful

[@keving8682]

Dan your tool reviews are excellent! I appreciate the time you put into these.

[@KBBAKTHA]

Brilliant review, by actual user after considerable use of it. It is a great help for me as i am planning to buy a track saw soon.

[@baja1980s]

Just a little info the makita track saws do work with the festool track saw rails

[@robedmondson5785]

Thanks! I was on the fence about this tool and your break down was very helpful in finalizing my decision!

[@DPShopTalk]

+Rob Edmondson glad to hear the review was helpful to you.

[@davidpollner8978]

I have purchased two 55" tracks, and both were very flat, no rocking. Also, as for when to clamp the track to the piece, I've found it's less about precision than thickness. When I'm cutting 1 1/2" oak, I clamp it. Otherwise, it tends to move. But on plywood, I rarely clamp and it makes great cuts. Love this saw.

[@DPShopTalk]

+David Pollner glad to hear that your tracks were flat. The original track that I had was flat but not straight enough, couldn't seem to find a track that had both flatness and straightness going for it in the ones I tested. I'm sure I would have found a couple perfect tracks at some point but I was getting tired of sending them back and forth. You're right about thickness. When I was cutting those thick wood countertops I clamped the track down. I think with thicker stock there is more forces at work so the track is more likely to shift. Thanks for your comments and thoughts!

[@mikeking7470]

I am just an amateur, nearly all my tools I buy used. And the ones that are out there, still running, are Makita. I have ancient 9.6v NiCad "stick" drills, etc. Corded saws, drywall guns all Makita. All still running.

[@blandry021]

Yes I'm in the market for a track saw and was looking at Makita and your review put it over the top.

[@DPShopTalk]

I just got the Bosch track saw as well so I'm going to be putting it to work to see how it stacks up against the Makita.

[@blandry021]

Dan you didn't want to test the battery operated Makita track saw?

[@DPShopTalk]

I tried reaching out to Makita to see if they were interested in sending me one to review but never heard back from them. So far I'm much more impressed with the Bosch saw. The Bosch tracks also seem to be much better, perfectly straight and flat. I also don't have any cordless Makita tools so the cordless Makita track saw wouldn't make a lot of sense for me since I don't have the batteries or chargers.

[@blandry021]

The one review I watch on the Bosch track saw, said he found the base on the saw was twisted. I will be interested to see what you find out about it.

[@DPShopTalk]

Yeah I watched that review as well. Haven't had that issue with mine.

[@CabinetFramingUK]

Hey Dan, nice review. I thought I'd mention, the tracks (festool also) are guaranteed straight, but not guaranteed square. Where they have cut to size, that end is not precision cut. You're supposed to leave a slight gap between the two tracks. Then just place the saw over the gap so it's sitting over both tracks and tighten the cams completely. Then lock down the connector rods. Then loosen the saw cams so it slides freely enough. They'll pe perfectly straight. Festool USA shows how on their KZbin 👍

[@DPShopTalk]

I had a lot of issues with the tracks themselves not being straight or flat apart from joining them together. A couple years ago I ended up switching to the Bosch saw and tracks and find them to be far superior. I ended up selling my Makita saw and track after comparing the two systems in use.

[@seanalexander9813]

genius

[@chevyimp5857]

Solid review.. I've had mine for about five years.. the only gripes I've had are having to replace the cam track adjusters which wear out causing less than smooth track travel, (cheap and easy to replace but worth noting) and the depth adjustment compared to the festool is a bit of a fiddle.. over all I'd recommend it even if it's not quite as refined as the festool..

[@antigay4123]

Festool has definitely more refined price too. I'm happy with my SP6000 - a super beast with reasonable price.

[@jonwrcongo]

This was a very efficient and effective orientation to my new tool for an upcoming project. Thanks.

[@captainfantastardo]

I bought this model off of the back of this video, thanks for a great video; the saw is excellent.

[@hhprogressiveconstruction1140]

My TS 55 Req festool saw is my go too track saw . I've never tired other brands in the track saw field . I just which the blade was made bigger for this model .

[@DPShopTalk]

+HHProgressiveconstruction do you find you need to make deeper cuts than the 160mm blade will allow?

[@hhprogressiveconstruction1140]

+DP Shop Talk I really don't cut slab material so depth doesn't brother me Dan .

[@mergalinpillay2413]

superb analysis as contemplating purchasing one. Much appreciated.

[@fubartotale3389]

The problem with the tracks is that they are extruded, not cast, that is heated aluminum billet is forced through a die under immense pressure. The resulting extrusion is extremely distorted and must be stretched in order to straighten it out. As you might think, this allows for some variation. The solution would be to leave some material on the locating/sliding surfaces and machine to finish size. This would increase the cost substantially is why they don't do it would be my guess.

[@kaden7298]

I love your detail reviews great job

[@janbarrettnielsen2559]

Hi Dan, great review, I've got the saw my self, and I love it 😊 It's definitely not perfect, but at the price point it is really great. I've had the saw for maybe 5-6 years, and I've tried the festool many times, and the festool wins hands down - but price-wise Makita is best. I'm just wondering, how do you keep the saw and your shop so clean? Your shop has got no traces of sawdust visible, and your saw looks new eventhough you mention that you have had it for maybe three years? Is it magic, or do you clean everything with cotton swabs every hour when you're working? Just wondering, since all the surrounds here always looks like s... eventhough I've got a Kärcher vacuum connected which turns on everytime I use the tool. 🙂

[@DPShopTalk]

+Jan Barrett Nielsen good to hear that you like the saw too. My shop isn't always that clean but I try and keep it as clean as I can. A lot of it comes down to good dust collection. I find that a clean work space is a more efficient work space. My track saw is 3 years old, I just like to take care of my tools. I usually clean them off with the compressor once in awhile to get all the fine dust off and keep them looking new. I've always been pretty fussy with my tools. I figure if you pay all that money for them might as well make them last and keep them looking good.

[@MacTech007]

Dan, you did a fair review of that Makita Track and fence! However for myself and my personal; needs, I'm going to purchase the Festool TS55 REQ and Festool Tracks to use on my planed build of your MPT Table. I just purchased your Excellent MPT Table plans yesterday. The plans are downright Excellent. Cheers. Larry B from Ontario

[@DPShopTalk]

+MacTech007 thanks very much for the feedback and also for your purchase of the MPT plans! If you get a chance to send some photos and a brief review once your MPT is finished it would be great to add it to the User Reviews & Photos page. www.danpattison.com/mpt-user-reviews-photos/

[@kiwiz86]

I've cut aluminum sheets/ weather boards/ concrete sheets and an a assortment of timbers with this rail saw. using different blades. 😊

[@DPShopTalk]

+zack st wow that's a big variety of materials that I never would have thought to try cutting with a track saw. Thanks for sharing.

[@bra_todo]

Are you using all Makita blades?

[@kiwiz86]

You use a different blabe for different types of materials

[@bra_todo]

@@kiwiz86 that's like saying "you use a blade to cut something." Yogi Bera was better at stating the obvious.

[@kiwiz86]

@@bra_todo just trying to be honest and helpfull. Really hope you can find some type of not being a fucking ass hole. And just remember to love and cherish family and friends.

[@andrewbell8135]

Well said 'Wildonemeister' I agree - excellent review Dan.

[@paulyanney3151]

Have same saw only wish it had kick back protection

[@richardmail1074]

Great review, that's a tidy work shop 0 dust..

[@blandry021]

Great review, because I'm in the market and there's a sale coming up, might save a few bucks.

[@bigthinkinguy]

When does Makita do their sales?

[@gambhana7468]

So much information all i needed to know before i purchase.thankyou so much .

[@bryanjohnson8204]

You did a great job and very fair from what I can see. Just bought this saw. have yet to use it but appears that my track is flat and true, time will tell. The track should've been a no brainer, right?

[@DPShopTalk]

That's great that you got a good track👍

[@greg6107]

best review, thanks Dan, love your shop.

[@hectorglover6392]

I would guess you know that Makita now has a cordless track saw! Great video very informative both pros and cons! Thanks!

[@DPShopTalk]

+Hector Glover Yeah the cordless version looks nice. Not having to worry about a cord would be great.

[@bradleyjohnson452]

Exactly what I was looking for. I was looking at f* saw but was having a hard with the price as I am just starting to collect tools.

[@HBSuccess]

Buy the best and you only have to buy it once. You won't regret it .

[@bradleyjohnson452]

I bought the Makita and I have been very happy with it. I suppose if it was a full time business I could justify a FT

[@jamcouch2570]

check out the festool tear down on boltr. festool has terrible quality internals. they just charge a lot to make it seem better, its bollox. the blade lock jams into the motor fan wtf.

[@525pm]

I had the same issue with track straightness when I purchased my Makita setup 6 months ago. When I found a straight track, it would rock back and forth as if it were cupped across the track's width. I had to return the 10' track three times before I finally gave up. I still have a cupped track and it definitely bothers me. So much money for a tool with poor quality control.

[@DPShopTalk]

I don't know why Makita doesn't do something about their tracks. It seems to be the one common downside to an otherwise great tool.

[@specialk22tt]

I've read some reviews of problems with kickback (mainly user error). Have you had any issues with this? Is it mainly people not letting it come up to full speed before plunging or them trying to pull the saw backwards?

[@DPShopTalk]

+Royal Poison I've never had any issues with kickback on the track saw. If you do either of the things that you mentioned that would definitely cause some kickback but if you use it properly it shouldn't be an issue. If you plunge slow and steady and brace the saw with your arms it works fine.

[@specialk22tt]

Thanks. I appreciate the info. Still like the saw?

[@DPShopTalk]

+Royal Poison yeah I still think it's a great saw. Other than the track issues that I had I've had no complaints.

[@ludwigbarnes3058]

Thanks for all the great reviews! Just subscribed and also on Instagram

[@sultan5175]

Had problems with initial setup cutting the rubber guide. It gets sloppy at the end of the cut.

[@GepsTeil]

Hey best review i`ve ever seen !!! no BLA Bla , only clear straight informations !!! Best Job !!! Big Thumb up :-)

[@DPShopTalk]

+Der Gep thanks! Glad you found the review helpful.

[@fegyi001]

Gosh, that's a clean shop! Really helpful review video also, thanks!

[@tomsmith4319]

I have a Festool track saw...its great for breaking down 3/4" thick melamine but the motor isn't powerful enough to reliably trim a solid 1-3/8 thick wood door.......the motor bogs down and then wont run for several minuets as it cools down.

[@stormbytes]

Outstanding tool presentation. Sealed the deal for me.

[@DPShopTalk]

I've been using the Bosch track saw lately and actually prefer it over the Makita. It's more expensive but definitely worth checking out.

[@stormbytes]

@@DPShopTalk What do you prefer about the Bosch? I've never really cared for Bosch's design ideology.

[@DPShopTalk]

The Bosch tracks are far superior in my opinion. No issues with being out of flat or straight like the Makita tracks and they are also lighter and narrower which I've found helpful working with it on job sites. I'll list some of the things I like better about the Bosch saw: longer power cord, easier depth stop adjustment, better dust collection, imperial and metric depth scale, more solid build quality, and more powerful motor. It doesn't have a scoring feature or the anti tip feature that the Makita does though and I do prefer the plunge lock button on the Makita. Having said all of that they are both good saws but having used both I prefer the Bosch hands down.

[@stormbytes]

@@DPShopTalk Will have a look then. Thanks!

[@mikevodopier358]

@@DPShopTalk Said it above, the Bosch looks great, but that narrow track is just too narrow - means the saw sled/base sticks out past the track so prevents quick track alignment to MFT dogs for fast perfect square cuts. Disappointing as the track joiners are awesome, and my sis-in-law works for Bosch! The anti tip and scoring are pluses for the Mak which will slightly soften the blow of missing out on a discount!

[@joerogers4227]

While the metric system is an more modern measurement system and the pointer of the Makita plunge saw is in metric how do I find thickness of common wood material such as plywood, 1 by 6, etc. There does not seem to be a easy source to find these. I would like to see a laminated chart that I could keep near the cutting station with fractional inches of common material thickness neat by. Any suggestion as to where to find one?

[@TheSMEAC]

There’s a replacement 3d printed imperial depth scale out on Amazon and Etsy 👍

[@dabarsaune]

Please,how to tighten saw to track at 3:30? Mine have few millimeter space

[@JimDockrellWatertone]

Nice saw and a nice review. Do you find the anti-tip groove on the track gets sawdust build up in it?

[@DPShopTalk]

+Jim Dockrell (Watertone) Thanks Jim. No I've never found that any sawdust builds up in the anti tip groove, especially not when using a dust extractor. I do find the the grip strips on the bottom of the tracks benefit from a vacuum from time to time to get any dust build up off and keep them at their gripiest(if that's a word).

[@Phaedrus-th7bi]

You sold me on it. Question: I am living in a 200 year old farmhouse with some pine wood flooring that has powder post beetle damage to the sides (approx 1.5 inch x 4 ft.) of some of the boards. I want to see if I can cut out that damage and drop in a new piece of pine, w/o replacing the entire board (wall to wall). The beetle problem was dealt with successfully by a previous owner, but some of those boards are a bit ugly and one now has a gap from my dog discovering it and picking at it with his nails and teeth. I have old Eastern pine from a carpenter retiring that will match (I think perfectly). Is the "Track Saw" what I need to use, if I want to cut the "beetle" pieces out without pulling the entire board out of the floor??? (I would be worried how much damage I would do to the entire board if I try to pull the entire thing out to make my cuts.) Helpful advice appreciated.

[@DPShopTalk]

The track saw would definitely be the most precise tool for cutting out a section of board like you are describing. If you end up hitting nails then the blade isn't going to fare so well so I would recommend maybe putting a cheaper blade on the saw for doing that. The nice thing with using the track saw is you would have a nice straight cut so that when you put your new piece in (assuming that it is perfectly straight too) you would have a nice seamless install. You would just need to use an oscillating multi tool or chisel for finishing off any inside corners that you create in the old floor.

[@DRJMF1]

Just bought sp6000, made in UK, and cut some hemlock. I could not believe how polished the cut face was, it’s was almost a mirror finish. Bought it because of your video and if you drop it, unlikely to break whereas Festool version is likely to break. Iam sure you agree that best tools are mostly made in Japan and can be imported via amazon.jp. I was looking for a Japanese built sliding mitre saw, available for import. Nice if you could shine some light on what mitre saws the Japanese produce and use ??? I know c7rshd by hikoki in 100V corded is good, but is it the best true Japanese mitre saw ? It’s price on amazon.jp (80k yen) is half the price of the same model branded ‘Metabo hitachi hpt ‘ here in the U.K.

[@wouterk2170]

I have been using a Hitachi (now Hikoki) C8FS mitr saw for over 25 years now, and it its a fine piece of equipment. I have worked in carpentry and in set decorating and I have seen a lot of mitr saws, but always considdered mine as the best of the bunch. Would not even trade it for the Kapex. The only other machine I would recommend is the Electra Beckum KGS 301. This is also a very accurate no nonsense machine. As an extra advantage, its engine makes no noise at all, the only noise you hear is the blade in the wood. For regular work with the Hitachi you need earplugs.

[@DRJMF1]

What date is your hitachi mitre saw ? For sash windows, what is best tool to make mortise and tenon joints eg a Makita 3612 router ? Thanks 🙏.

[@RealHankShill]

You can buy a sticker to put over the metric depth gauge to convert it to imperial. Easy fix.

[@DPShopTalk]

+Logan Cressler that's a good idea. It might be challenging to get it to stick well though since the scale and numbers are raised a bit.

[@RealHankShill]

I am 90% sure the Festool sticker would work on this saw, as it is so similar. However, with the difference in blade size, it may not. But you can always make your own, or pull their sticker off and make engravings of your own.

[@paleulfr4023]

Very helpful review -- balanced and concise. Thanks.

[@danb6228]

Mine arrives today,thanks

[@wolfwoodshop6898]

Why is your shop so clean? There's not one speck of sawdust.

[@DPShopTalk]

+Wolf Wood Shop lol all comes down to good dust collection. Even when I have a full set of cabinets being built in the shop it stays very clean. Better dust collection means less time spent cleaning up and a more efficient and healthier work space.

[@leonardorojas1781]

Dan Pattison It means healthier lungs, too.

[@blandry021]

I watched this video again Dan, Atlas has the battery track saw on sale this weekend in Toronto. I'm buying a track saw for cutting sheet goods, the saw on sale comes with the 55" track. Should I buy the 10' track or an extra 55" one? When two tracks are joined together is the cut still perfect?

[@DPShopTalk]

I find the two 55" rails a lot easier to store and transport so I prefer them over a longer rail. If you take your time joining the rails and use a straightedge it gives a good straight cut. I'm probably going to be selling my Makita though because I like the Bosch so much better.

[@Antony_blr]

A beautiful review! Keep it coming.

[@DPShopTalk]

+Antony Manuel thanks!

[@jeffdeluca1153]

Hey Dan... Been awhile and hope you're well! After all this time are you still living the Makita? Did you review the festool? Opinions there? Thx again. Jeff

[@DPShopTalk]

Hey Jeff, I was hoping to get a new episode out but things have just been too busy to find the time lately. I actually just sold my Makita track saw a few weeks ago. I've been using the Bosch track saw and rails and much prefer it over the Makita, hence selling the Makita. The Makita is still a good saw but in my opinion the Bosch is better. I've never tried the Festool.

[@fgriffintx]

Excellent review! I have one question maybe you can help with: will this saw pretty much replace using a circular saw in the shop? Other than breaking down sheet goods, I am thinking about, say, shortening 2X6's or squaring off the end of a glued-up table top (less than 2" thick). I realize that the 55" track might be cumbersome, but apart from that?

[@DPShopTalk]

+fgriffintx Smith you can use the saw without the track as well just like a regular circ saw so yes you could use it for cutting off 2x material. If you were framing or something a regular circ saw is more rugged and quicker since you don't need to plunge it for each cut but for what you're doing it should work fine.

[@mibooth1852]

Great review Dan, I have a question regarding the track though, is the track long enough to crosscut through a sheet of plywood ?

[@DPShopTalk]

+M&Ibooth thanks. Yes the standard 55" track is long enough to cross cut a sheet of ply. When I need to rip sheets I join two 55" tracks together which works great.

[@stevetruby8865]

Thanks Dan your review helped me decide to opt for the Malkita, I unpacked it this weekend, saw is fine but sadly the tracks are bowed but this could have happened in transit, one thing I've noticed is that the blade is going to catch the rubber splinter guard, from what I've read I need to trim it but annoyingly there is nothing in the manual to suggest this needs to be done. Can you please confirm ?

[@DPShopTalk]

Glad you found the review helpful Steve. Yes the splinter guard does need to be trimmed the first time you use the saw. You just hang the edge of the track past your work surface and plunge the saw through the splinter guard and run it along the length of the track.

[@tovar19506]

great explanation...thanks

[@kubilayylmaz1716]

Hi, i just bought makita plunge saw and i have bosch 1600 gmf router is it posaible to use on makita rail with makita adaptor system? Or the other way around with bosch fsn ova on Makita rail? Does anybody has idea about that?

[@shifty277]

Great video, really enjoyed your in depth bits - i.e straight ness of joins in track and taking units back all whilst having to fiddle sith the grippy splinter guard. Thanks a lot, watching from the UK. I will probably be going for the 36v cordless Makita, do you know if they are identical or differ more than just the power delivery? Thumbs up!

[@DPShopTalk]

I don't know much about the cordless Makita as I've never tried it or really looked into much. I've been using the Bosch track saw for about 6 months now and definitely prefer it over the Makita. The Bosch/Mafell rails are much better made and don't have any of the issues that the Makita ones do. Based on my experience so far I would definitely recommend checking out the Bosch before you buy.

[@shifty277]

@@DPShopTalk Thank you very much for your reply Dan. Unfortunately I will be going with the 36V Makita. The reason is I have a criminal amount of Makita Batteries (12 x 5.0amp). As well these are tools that are lightly used for home projects so I hope to have all my Makita 18v tools working in 10 years time as I don't take them to site. I will be going for different tracks. Perhaps the Evolution ones which are mostly a UK based brand. These are better value than the festool ones I think on Amazon UK. Once again thank you for the response. It is appreciated just want to get the best use of cordless tools. Barring my SDS drill all my tools are 18v or 36v Makita.

[@wb801]

@@DPShopTalk that's put the cat back amongst the pigeons 😅

[@ThisTall]

I have this saw and love it, but the 0° and 45° marks on the bevel mitre guage aren't accurate, there actually 46-1/2° apart so I can only use the saw for 0° and 45° cuts after I've set the stops properly. Also the bevel hinge mechanism is a bit sloppy on mine now but it's 3 years old now so... I've also bought two 55" rails and both are bent as well, could possibly take the centre foam pad off and it would sit on the outer pad and the splinter guard. I also wouldn't recommend joining rails, never works out straight or transitions from 1 rail to the other perfect, better to get the long rail if you need.

[@DPShopTalk]

+brendonmartens you're right, joining two rails isn't ideal. I find it works best for me though since a long rail would be more of a pain to store and transport. I made sure the two rails that I settled on mated well so that the transition was smooth. I did find that some of the tracks varied a bit in terms of the width of the guide that the saw rides on which won't work when joining two rails since the saw will be tight on one and sloppy on the other. Definitely more setup time having to join two rails compared to having a long one as well. Interesting to know that your rails aren't flat either. It would be nice if Makita would do something to make them more consistent.

[@ThisTall]

+DP Shop Talk thanks for the response, I asked the store I bought my rails from and they say there rails have been coming bent for some time and claim it's shipping. Personally I don't think shipping damage can cause a perfectly consistant bend right down the center like that. Do you know what the bevel hinge style is called?

[@DPShopTalk]

+brendonmartens the Makita rep told me that the rails aren't always straight or flat as a result of the extrusion process and that there isn't much that can be done about it. So I guess seeing that some rails are much better than others it seems like a luck of the draw type thing. It would be nice to have tighter tolerances though on what they let go out the door. I'm not sure exactly what the bevel hinge style is called but I'm thinking maybe concentric?

[@bjorjoh]

Have you ever had a chance to lay your hands on a Bosch GKT 55? I´m curious on how it is compared to the Makita SP6000. Thank you very much for a highly informative video!

[@DPShopTalk]

+Björn Johansson unfortunately the Bosch isn't available in Canada. I would love to try it out though and if it ever makes it to Canada I will.

[@luftaufnahmench4503]

Well done ....i am happy to live in a world of mm....about the Cabel...my one is 5 m long

[@ryanphotostudio]

Very nice review, thanks!

[@ChadMc74]

DP is awesome!

[@garykarczewski6678]

Great review thank you. I am considering this saw and of course the Festool. Thoughts on not having a riving knife and outside cut splinter guard. I am wondering if Makita improved their track. Many seem to just opt and use this saw with the Festool Track. Have you tried that and does the angle lock work on a Festool track?

[@DPShopTalk]

+Gary Karczewski I've never found that a lack of a riving knife was an issue for me and how I use the saw. I hope that Makita has taken the feedback and improved the tracks but I haven't tried any more recently made tracks so I can't say. I haven't tried my saw on a Festool track but I know people that have. The angle lock won't work on the Festool track though since it doesn't have that extra groove for the lock tab.

[@garykarczewski6678]

Thank you Dan. I contacted Makita and the issues with the track have been resolved.

[@DPShopTalk]

+Gary Karczewski good to know that Makita has addressed the issue, thanks for the update.

[@wouterk2170]

Just purchased this track saw and to my surprise, when unplugged you can hardly rotate the blade by hand, As if it is stuck, or runs on bad bearings or is on a handbrake. The vendor says this is ok as this saw has a mechanical brake which is on when unplugged or at rest. Anyone who can confirm this?

[@diggerphelps1]

I received a new track for my new Makita SP6000. I have the same issues with the "rocking" track issue. I like the saw but the track is obviously an issue. Now I am debating whether to send the track back or modify like you did. Is this a generic issue?

[@DPShopTalk]

+David Phelps from what I'm hearing from others, the track issues seem to be fairly common. Makita really needs to address this issue since it really takes away from an otherwise great saw when the tracks aren't what they should be. If you're able to send it back and try another one I would tend to go that route. The only issue with the modification that I made to mine is the splinter strip gets cut into a bit when beveling since it now sits lower than it normally does.

[@thomasbrown9515]

I wish you had shown how you determined the rails were not straight, and how far they were off. Were they bowed with one major gap in the middle? Or were they wavy, etc.?

[@DPShopTalk]

+Thomas Brown they were all a bit different, some were bowed with one gap in the middle and some varied along the length. I used an accurate aluminum straight edge to check them with that I use for setting my jointer tables with. I can't remember now exactly how much they were out by since it was a few years ago but I think on average they were out by about 1/64".

[@thomasbrown9515]

Thanks! To be honest, 1/64" out over 55" isn't bad for an extrusion. If you were using a machinist's straightedge as a judge, those are ground straight to tolerances you'd never find in woodworking gear, like plus or minus .001" per linear foot. I thought you were going to say it was out 1/8" or something. Still, it makes sense to want it as straight as possible.. Of course, the fact that the rail doesn't sit flat on the work is a little more troubling!

[@DPShopTalk]

+Thomas Brown yeah I can't remember the exact amount it was out but I know it was enough to cause an issue cutting joints in countertop which I was using the saw for at the time. I had to glue a strip of laminate under the splinter strip in the end to get the rails to sit flat since I was tired of sending them back and forth with Makita and I had found two that I was happy with the straightness on.

[@85jettacoupe]

Liked and subscribed, thank you for this great review.

[@ricardolpd]

Hi, excellent review thanks to it i bought one. With guide rails. However now when I connect the saw to the rail, the blade descends right into the splinters rubber, and on the other guide I purchased it seems to descend almost on the side of but the blade continues to rub on splinters rubber. Is there any fine tunning i am missing or are the rails faulty?

[@DPShopTalk]

+ricardolpd did you make the initial cut through the splinter strip when you got the saw to trim it?

[@madimetsapitseng8306]

Helpful presentation indeed, like it

[@zoran8614]

Exceptional review - thank you!

[@joewalter4]

Very well done on review , thanks I am going to get one the same.

[@ugafan1779]

Dan, very good review. Your review makes me question if I purchased the right track saw. The Makita seems to have some great features. However, every time I looked at the Makita there just seemed to be something about their plastic. The plastic just seems a lesser quality than Festool or even the DeWalt. My track saw is a Bosch GKT 55GCE (later found out that it is a re-badged Mafell) I picked up while vacationing in England. I love it but and have gotten great service out of it and find it to be equal to the Festool. Isnt the Festool track profile the same as the Makita? Couldn't you use a Festool track instead of the Makita?

[@DPShopTalk]

+UGAFan I think I know what you mean about the plastic on the Makita, it does seem different. I would like to get my hands on the Bosch saw whenever it hits North America and test it out as well. I've had very good success with Bosch gear, hence most of my tools are Bosch. I could use a Festool track if I wanted to, just didn't really want to spend the extra money that they cost.

[@ugafan1779]

Dan, I found out while looking at track saws that Bosch has no plans of bringing the GKT55 here to N. America. I believe it has something to do with their partnership with Mafell on the product and Mafell already having a presence here in N. America through ToolNut.com and timberwolftools.com. Albeit the Mafell is even more expensive than the Festool. However, Axminster.co.uk will ship a 120v here to the U.S. as I have gotten parts and strips from them as well as the router guide for the track. Almost all of my tools are Bosch and recently built multiple cabinets with sliding drawers for holding all my L-Boxx's. I enjoy your videos and appreciate the insight into your experience using them. Especially the fact that you've used most of them for multiple years. Great work.

[@DPShopTalk]

+UGAFan thanks for the info and feedback, it's always appreciated!

[@CU96821]

Dan, connecting the two tracks, do you use one or two connector kits. Many Amazon reviews say that to accurately connect the tracks that two are needed and that in other countries, non US, the kits ship with two connectors.

[@DPShopTalk]

Only one connector kit is needed to connect two tracks. The kit comes with two connector bars which go in the two slots in the tracks.

[@CU96821]

Thanks Dan, I think we are both talking about the same thing.... in the US only one bar is in the "kit" and people are complaining that the US version is deceiving beacuse you really need two connector bars, as you mentioned, to make it work.

[@DPShopTalk]

That's interesting. The kit I got in Canada had both bars that I needed included with it. Good to know though for those in the US.

[@ChrisB-me3ni]

If you don't have a vacuum hook up for the dust collection, what would be a good dust bag to purchase for this saw? I haven't found an exact matching product.

[@DPShopTalk]

I think I've seen someone using a bag on this saw but I can't remember off the top of my head where they got it from. You could make most standard dust bags work by using an adapter of some sort.

[@aaronmurray2691]

Did you find the rocking of the track/your fix cause the saw to cut off of 90?

[@DPShopTalk]

+Aaron Murray good question. No I find that it cuts right on at 90 with the strip of laminate that I put in there. The only downside to the laminate fix is that because the total thickness is slightly more at the cutting edge of the track you cut a very slight bevel on the edge of the splinter guard when cutting steep angles like 45 so it's not a perfect solution. I don't cut bevels very often so it hasn't been too big of an issue for me. At some point I may try shimming the far left grip strip instead to accomplish the same thing but without the bevel cutting drawback.

[@rakeyohn222]

Great review.

[@marksneyd1262]

Great review. What is the blue dial for on the end of the plunge scale. Thanks

[@jonwrcongo]

Good question. Thanks for asking that. I’m waiting for the reply too!

[@DPShopTalk]

Thanks. The blue dial at the top of the plunge scale is for locking the saw into the proper position for changing the blade.

[@EdwardT9]

Watch what he does at 5:45 best example I’ve seen of how to do this.

[@Ian_Hay]

Great review. Is the stock Makita blade suitable (within reason) for thicker solid hardwood cuts, e.g. 2 inch thick walnut?

[@DPShopTalk]

For ripping or cross cuts?

[@Ian_Hay]

Dan Pattison - My use case would be both, although infrequent. Home shop alternative to a table saw for weekend projects, often involving rough hardwood, sometimes 6-8 quarter slabs, and sawing both rip and crosscut to size.

[@Ian_Hay]

Dan Pattison Bought it yesterday, used it today. The answer is: it struggles on a 5 foot rip cut into 7 quarter walnut. It makes the cut, but it’s slow and hard. I might look into a rip blade for these cuts.

[@DPShopTalk]

A rip blade makes a big difference for that type of cut for sure. I have a low tooth count rip blade and it makes a huge difference ripping hardwood. The other thing you can do when cutting thick hardwood that I've done before is make multiple passes increasing the depth each pass.

[@AlWheelin]

Well this is certainly better than my circular saw on a homemade door-board.

[@officerjimlahey31]

Would you be able to elaborate on the fix you did with the track? Did you just iron on laminate edgeband to the underside of the track and then install/reinstall the splinter guard?

[@DPShopTalk]

+officerjimlahey31 I used some contact cement to adhere a strip of countertop laminate to the underside of the track and then put new splinter guards on. It works well with the exception of making beveled cuts since the blade will cut into the bottom edge of the splinter guard slightly when the blade is tipped. If I was to do it over again I might try putting the laminate under the far grip strip rather than the splinter guard to avoid the issue with bevel cuts but still achieve the same end result. Definitely disappointed that I had to modify the rails at all. Makita should have addressed the issue better.

[@officerjimlahey31]

Thanks Dan! What's your thoughts on the rail connector system from Makita? The Festool system looks more substantial but of course more expensive as well.

[@DPShopTalk]

+officerjimlahey31 I find that the Makita rail connector kit works well. I join my two 55" rails for making rips in sheet goods and it keeps the rails locked well and in alignment.

[@mikevodopier358]

Hi Dan. Like most here, got heaps out of your review, just the sort of thing to convince someone whether they are making the right choice or not, so thanks! Funnily enough you have had both the (sanely priced) plunge saws I have narrowed it down to, and in fact I liked the Bosch the most because of track length choices and that excellent joining method (not to mention my sister in law works with Bosch so there are decent discounts in play!)... BUT one flaw kills it for me - the saw base sits slightly outside the track meaning you can't just butt the track up against a couple of dogs on an MFT to achieve fast square or 45 degree cuts. The Mafell saw/track of course has the same issue. Did you know this when purchasing the Bosch (you still seem to prefer it after years so it must not be a problem) and do you think it is an issue? Perhaps your uses and the other tools you may have available might mean this is not important to you? I will use this saw at home for furniture, never on site, and largely on a bench/MFT. As a relative beginner, am I crossing off the Bosch for no good reason? Thanks! Mike

[@DPShopTalk]

Hi Mike, I definitely prefer the Bosch over the Makita. I actually sold my Makita a couple months ago. I came up with a system that hinges the Bosch track to TSO dogs on my MPT which eliminates the issue of the saw hanging over the edge of the track. I also kept one Makita track just in case I need it for any accessory that the Bosch track doesn't work as well for. They are both great saws but the Bosch is my preference and I find the Bosch tracks are much better made.

[@mikevodopier358]

@@DPShopTalk Really appreciate your response Dan. I WANT to buy the Bosch! Could I kindly ask for a quick description and/or snapshot of the track hinge/TSO dog solution you came up with for use on the MPT/MFT? Use with an MPT/MFT is the only box that the Bosch doesn't quite tick. Thanks, Mike

[@DPShopTalk]

@@mikevodopier358 if you send me an email Mike I can send you a couple pictures to give you an idea of how it works. [e-mail]

[@unwelcomemotivation]

Alright track saws are easy there is only 3. Makits, Dewalt, or Festool? What would you take if you HAD to choose one and ONLY one?

[@DPShopTalk]

+Stevey Irwin out of those 3 I would still take the Makita. To mix things up a bit though the Bosch is soon coming to North America too.

[@jameswebb9876]

Dan - do you know this for certain? Any idea of when? Axminster sells a 110 volt version of the Bosch (it is corded and a close cousin to the supremely engineered and astronomically priced Mafell - both made in Germany) and is available in a kit (saw, L-Box, blade, two 55" tracks, track bag, and track connector) for $600 delivered to US. Though the track is configured differently from the Festool and Makita and thus not compatible with the aftermarket items made to go with these two, word is that it is consistently straight, flat, and square and that the connection system is a significant step up. Perhaps the Bosch kit with an LR32 track (less expensive in UK than here - $94 delivered with the Bosch) for use with the aftermarket tools - TSO comes to mind - might be a good solution. Warranty might be an issue. I wonder, too, if Bosch might set up production in China to meet demand from sales in US. As an aside, Cordless has arrived. I wonder, though, if this is a huge consideration for a track saw where in the optimum case the saw is tethered to a dust hose anyway to take advantage of one of a plunge saw's key features. There are bags, but I cannot believe their passive approach works anywhere near as well as the active approach found in a dust vacuum. What are your thoughts, Dan? Readers? Dan, thank you for your review. Jim

[@mrtopcat2]

Thanks for this great review. It made me actually understand my saw better by highlighting and if you will unlocking some of the functionality for me. For example I did not realize the presence and importance of the scoring function. Thanks to you, I do now. One thing I'm still struggling with this saw is the 0 angle setting. I can't seem to get 90 degree cuts. I must be doing something wrong. I tried to adjust the angle, I even tried to adjust the orange 0 marking.

[@DPShopTalk]

Did you try adjusting the little set screw that provides the stop for the 90 degree setting?

[@mrtopcat2]

@@DPShopTalk Thanks for your response and sorry for my delayed reply. I checked my saw and I think I got it now. I found the 2x allen set screws. I shall 'play' with it, but I'm sure this is it! - Many, many thanks again!

[@negativentry]

I have heard that festool plunge 55 is underpowered ... would you consider buying makita and festool guide instead of makita guide to mitigate poor quality of the makita guides??

[@DPShopTalk]

If I was to do it over again I might consider buying the Makita saw by itself and then buying Festool rails. I didn't really want to go that route since I had already bought the Makita rails but that would be a good way to go. The new cordless Makita saw looks nice too.

[@bruchmariano1166]

Hi Dan! Can I also use a metal cutting blade with Makita SP6000?

[@DPShopTalk]

I think there is a metal cutting blade available but you would have to double check on that, I'm not sure. I don't think you would be able to cut very thick metal though.

[@labrat7357]

Hi Dan, I am now a Makita SP6000 saw owner and really enjoy using the saw and like you I am very disappointed with the extrusion design I believe this a design oversight that could very easily be corrected by adding around 1.5mm extra thickness to the edge where the anti chipping strip is adhered. The thing that follows from that design issue is the question of whether the cut is square or not. I have not done the math but by having around 1,5mm "drop" on one side of the saw base should move the cut away from being square, but I am not seeing that. Perhaps the saws design has already taken that into account and by "fixing" the evenness of the base is in fact moving the cut away from being square. I'm not sure how to measure the squareness of the cut. I have tried using an accurate square but over 16 or 19mm length of cut edge you can not see much one way or the other. I would really like to know. Any hints.

[@DPShopTalk]

+labrat7357 the most accurate way to check for square that I know would be to cut a test piece that is the thickness of the maximum depth of cut of the saw to give you the widest possible reference edge. I've just used typical 3/4" thickness material to do test cuts in to check for square and I've never had any issues. I added a strip of laminate under the splinter strip on my tracks to keep them from rocking side to side and haven't noticed any issues with cutting square from that.

[@brianr10]

How is the dust collection? My Triton spews sawdust out the front.

[@DPShopTalk]

+Brian Rogers the dust collection works well. The only dust I usually get is at the bottom of the material from the bottom of the blade.

[@brendankendem583]

Is it better to use a extension and 2x 1400mm rails or a 1400mm rails + 3000mm rail ?

[@DPShopTalk]

Personally I use two 1400mm rails and the connector kit for longer rips because they are easier to store and transport than the 3000mm.

[@brendankendem583]

Dan Pattison thnx

[@adamandlorraine]

@@DPShopTalk do you find any deviation in straightness using two joined rails. I would have never thought to test the straightness on the long rails! I would have thought that was a basic requirement!

[@DPShopTalk]

As long as the two rails being joined are straight to begin with and you use a straightedge to set them in line with each other when using the joining kit then it's not an issue.

[@adamandlorraine]

@@DPShopTalk thanks. The 3m one is a pain to keep in van. I have a DeWalt (2.7m?) currently and it's always getting banged up in the van so the joining kit would be favoured