Dressing up a Tudor woman, middle class

Another one in the series, and we are delving into the 1530-40, middling status!
enjoy!
CREDITS
Presentation and clothing:
www.priorattire.co.uk
photography:
www.timelightphotographic.com
stockings and cap
www.sallypointer.com
Wool - The Tudor Tailor
Shoes
www.np-historicalshoes.com
Pins and laces
LucyTheTudor
Music
Dances of Court and country ( Il Canario; The Earl od Essex)
Dolmetsch Historical Dance Society, performed by The Broadside
Band director Jeremy Barlow

[@rachelfeala4963]

Please do more of middle class folk. You don't often get to see what they wore. Thanks.

[@sycamore33]

This is rad! I never knew about the difference between the two shades of black fabric - fascinating!

[@Midlife_Manical_Mayhem]

i had always assumed that the sleeves not attaching under the arms was for ventilation/cooling, especially during summer and under all those layers, etc when i watch movies. thanks to your channel, i now know that sleeves were interchangeable for different reasons, such as variety, cleanliness, wealth, etc. i so enjoy watching your videos and learning about historical dressing. thank you.

[@Michaelneiss]

Those pre-corset dresses are a true marvel: Every part seems so functional and simple compared to the later styles, and yet the overall effect looks every bit as beautiful, if not more ...

[@SquareNoggin]

I feel like I'm the only 20something straight dude watching this channel, but goddamn I love it and I'm hooked. I'd love to see more content - the tailoring process maybe, tools that may have been used in the period, etc. Really digging all the historical insight here. It's like that Skull-something guy who's really popular doing those videos about historical weaponry. This is cooler IMO.

[@katrinaslota2799]

Without fail I stop whatever I'm doing just to watch these

[@Crosshill]

i often wait and watch them when im ready to strap in and be cozy

[@kitt3h]

@Entraya Crosshill same

[@cindchan]

I love that you're doing middle class. It's interesting to see the differences with the upper class!

[@amyhoffman5839]

You are unraveling all the mysteries of women's attire throughout the ages....thank you!

[@LDrosophila]

I am very interested in how the lower classes dressed. Sure the garments of the upper class are beautiful, but it's interesting how people like you and me dressed.

[@cassievanbrunt7791]

Just like us, they purchased the best fabric they could afford and did the best they could to look the best they could. Keeping up with the Jones'

[@anidleteen]

I just posted a comment about lower class! I can't be bothered to retype it though 😹 but you can check out my other comment instead

[@ecclestonsangel]

I always look forward to when you release a new video - such fun! I must ask, though - how in heaven's name do you keep from poking the living daylights out of yourself with all those common pins? I don't think I could ever do it! I fear I would be bloody by video end! I'm such a klutz! I do admire the clothes tremendously, though. Give Merlin a kiss for me!

[@ipsitamazumdar4849]

I love this. Simple practical lines and flattering and cozy too. Just like the Tudor lives of the mid 16 century. Glad that they still didn’t get worked up about showing a bit of ankles.

[@rosieanox7557]

I know we’ve seen the dressing up process for a lot of the 1800s, but I would absolutely die for a couple videos on some dresses that’ve been in previous videos. Like your 1871 yellow summer gown ( it’s so so pretty!! ) ...just so I get to stare at them longer Your channel is an absolute godsend, you look so lovely in everything from every era you put yourself in...thanks for sharing your work with us!!!

[@priorattire]

Most of them is well represented in my book, with lots of photos there:-)

[@carolynallisee2463]

I love these videos. In my teens my mother purchased me a book titled 'The Anatomy of Costume', illustrated by Victor Ambrus of 'Time Team' fame. It covered Old World clothing from the Ancient Egyptian and Biblical periods, through classical Greek and Roman times, Byzantium, Dark Ages, Medieval period to the 1970's, taking in American Colonial and French Revolution fashions along the way. It's still in my bookcase now, and I get it out now and again to look things up, especially if I'm drawing one of my fantasy outfits.

[@jackiemartin2874]

I would so wear the shift and kirtle as a modern outfit now! It’s cute as is. Yes, the skirt would need to close....

[@Bullen_3]

That was fascinating. It seems in historical videos, there is a lot of focus on what the upper class wore; so it was cool to see what the middle class lady looked like. Nice work!

[@aldenheterodyne2833]

See, I have half a mind to take inspiration from old styles to give myself a wardrobe that is extremely practical and durable. It's gonna be wildly anachronistic, but everything will have a reason.

[@mielei16]

Wonderful video, love how "mix and match" everything is.

[@nancyvolker3342]

WOW! I can't believe how fast you finished off that second gown that black dress looks every elegant indeed. The best part about the black is Merlin's hair will not show

[@ronstarkronstark500]

Thanx for closeups and keeping descriptions up longer.

[@RubyOpheliaQuinn]

That overgown looks so much more comfortable than all the faffing around with sleeves and things.

[@highboy72]

you have amazing talent, and you help keep history alive. and being a bit saucy doesn't hurt. ;-)

[@elizabethpothier6270]

Thank you for this series! It helps a great deal understanding the layers and how things work together!

[@MiscreantRose]

Lovely!! I’ve been enjoying all your videos, but have always had a pull to the Tudor and late medieval. Love how you present each video, and always appreciate the bonus Merlin content! (And as servant to a Siamese who insists on special treats before she can start eating, yeah, cats!)

[@paulpitt8729]

I see Merlin wearing his own black and white Tudor costume!

[@DoraG99]

My favourite part of these videos is the moment the outfit FEELS like the era to me - for this one, it was once the apron and bonnet went on 😊 it just HITS me with historical feels 😂😘

[@MargaretSiemers]

I just love what you show us, it's a mini history lesson that you usually don't get to see. Thank you.

[@thatclown6239]

I was waiting for a middle class outfit and the tutors is my favourite eta real tied it with a bow

[@emilystefano8924]

Doesn’t matter what I’m doing, if I see a prior attire video, I click.

[@AliceMarieM]

How would a middle class Tudor woman buy her clothes? Did she make them herself? Was one of her servants a seamstress? Were their clothes shops in those days? Were there professional seamstresses who came to your house and took orders?

[@d0lph1n63]

AliceMarieM she would most likely buy them as bolts of cloth (kinda of like what you find today in fabric stores) from a textile merchant, she’d take her own measurements (with help from a maid if she could afford one), and made them herself. There were professional seamstresses out there but the many were also employed by the Toffs and could charge fee and set their own hours. if a middle-class woman planned to make a dress out of expensive fabrics such as silk, brocade, velvet or lace (yes velvet and lace were both very expensive back then) only then would a professional seamstress be hired to do the work as a normal middle class family could only afford one attempt.

[@OcarinaSapphr-]

I know there was a second-hand clothes industry in the 18th & 19th c, but it could have begun earlier (though I have no evidence) - yes, sewing was one of the main skills women were taught, & it was one of the professions women were omnipresent in (though it is interesting to note that *'professional'* embroiderers, ie. employed by the Queen, were *men* ) - employing a specific seamstress would be unlikely, unless you were at the higher end of the middle class. There were 'mantua-makers', seamstresses, glovers, hatters, tailors & cobblers; these were the professions that related to the making of clothes, shoes & outerwear Buying clothes 'off the rack' didn't yet exist- that came in in the 19th c.

[@thinderellaedwards1365]

What? They didn't go to Ye Olde Mark & Spencers?

[@AliceMarieM]

:)

[@EsmereldaWeatherwax-f1s]

This was very useful for my part in the re-creation of Lord Marney's funeral procession.

[@marianamedina1039]

Another wonderful, entertaining video. Hey Merlin!!!

[@celiahaddon4087]

Your videos are absolutely fascinating!

[@autumnbippus8161]

The black gown looks so good but the kirtle is so functional. Always so interesting. I love your videos, see you in the next one :)

[@Jedapoo]

lol, "Or so you heard" indeed! Wonderful video, as always. Thank you!

[@alexbaer4572]

A joy to watch as always. I think it wonderful, that in times where cheap and fast is the thought way to go, there is a haven were craftsman(woman)ship is practiced with grace, knowledge and care. Thank you for your wonderful videos.

[@tjw9985]

Practical and gorgeous in the same dress. I love it. The cat is also adorable.

[@hankwilliams150]

All these videos are absolutely fascinating as is Merlin (and her husband in real life who sometimes appears is a hunk!)

[@LynxSouth]

@priorattire -- Do you know why no one seems to have embroidered their partlets? I understand most women would have been busy sewing and knitting for their families, but to not even stitch on a simple flower or leaf . . . Lack of colored thread or yarn? extreme expense thereof? Even a bit of blackwork on black with scrap threads to produce a sort of brocade effect. Sumptuary laws?

[@GrinkyGirl]

It might sound weird, but seeing that there are hardly any portraits/pictures of pregnant women from previous eras and since you mentioned in various videos that clothing could be adjusted to the growing bump as needed, it would be interesting to see how the shape of the garment would have changed and how it would have looked in real life.

[@mastersadvocate]

Thank you for showing how the Middle class ladies dressed! I liked seeing all the layers of clothes, and your description of how to wear them. You are very interesting to both watch and read the notes in your videos! I liked the orange(?) kirtle with the black apron and white shawl best! That huge hat was interesting, too! The reeds that you mentioned in your notes, are they the plants??? How strange. By the by, how long did it take you to sew the whole dress, hat, etc? Did you sew it all by hand? ~Janet in Canada

[@PoisonTheOgres]

mastersadvocate yes, reed is a plant! The same plant as is used for wicker chairs, actually. The reed is flexible but sturdy. It was used as boning to give more structure to the garments.

[@stephaniehight2771]

Question: For a very hot summer day, would a smock, kirtle, apron and coif be considered respectable coverage, without the sleeves, partlet and flat cap?

[@kirstenpaff8946]

The way the first look was comprised of all sorts of bits and pieces made me think of a modern kid playing dress up with whatever random articles of clothing they could find.

[@jcorbett9620]

It's rather amusing to see modern style "gurus" talk about accessorising and mix and matching as if it is a new thing. By having all their clothes in seperate parts - sleeves, bodices, skirts, jackets etc - the historical lady could get away with only having a few items and yet multiple outfits for most occasions, just by mix and matching the parts.

[@animequeen78]

Removable sleeves are very useful indeed. Hot weather? Pack them in your purse. Got chilly? Whip em out and slip them on.

[@bustedkeaton]

I was just talking about this with my partner last night. How come we dont do that anymore? Arm warmers are sort of similar, but not quite

[@d0lph1n63]

i like middle class and working class clothes of pre-Victorian society less flamboyant and more practical as both genders worked to bring in the bread, any machines or an army of servants to do all the work was reserved primarily for the royals and nobility (the “Toffs”).

[@OcarinaSapphr-]

Actually, to my surprise- in the research I've done, they could be *quite* flamboyant, just in a different way to the wealthy- sewing was a skill practically *every* woman was taught as a child, so dressing something up with some embroidery was easy enough to do- & there were plenty of natural dyes, native to the UK; a lot of them were yellows, browns & greens- but also a rich tomato red, from madder- blues from woad (indigo was the more expensive blue dye)- even coral pink, from lady's bedstraw, or a soft pink-brown from alkanet, pink from sorrel or purple from elder. The Scots also had a heap of colours that largely came from various lichens & stuff- though Scotland was not exactly a wealthy country in comparison to England. Neither had to rely solely on expensive imports. The rich & royalty could make a statement in their clothing, but so could the ordinary folk- if they chose to.

[@bustedkeaton]

This one is unexpected but so cute! I looked up the painting you referenced and this is very accurate! I keep coming back to rewatch this one. Maybe its just because i love that orange color so much. My favorite vids of yours are your medieval/Tudor dress vids, but I also love the 18th c vids. Thanks

[@allenbell3734]

Was the Tudor middle class big? It seems that not a lot of women would be dressed like this. The poor what did they wear? If we could see you clean house or make dinner or go to the market. It’s the movement in the dress that is so thought provoking. Well done.

[@saralist1200]

Thank you for another beautifully done and informative video!

[@renaebettenhausen3611]

For Renaissance pleasure fair, (usually in the U.S. late Tudor/ early Elizabethan) what would a middle class widow wear, since black is terribly expensive? Would the coif and flat cap be black also? Would the smock be black or white? Would the stockings be black or brown? Also would the kirtle be black? I presume that such clothing that needed repairs would be embroidered black on black? What garments, besides stockings were knitted? do you know if anything was crocheted?

[@ArtemisScribe]

That smart black gown is also what she would most likely have been married in! Most ordinary brides just wore their best dress and your best dress was usually in brown or black!

[@lindakile1229]

I love your videos. I have always wondered how people back long ago dressed. Thank you so for you knowledge and great presentations, and the bits of humor.

[@helenel4126]

Splendid, as always! Thanks for posting clothes for the "rest of us" rather than just the elite folk. I'm afraid if I'd lived back then I would have been constantly yelping from being poked by pins...

[@rebahsolomon1913]

Really interesting video. I’d much rather wear any of that on a daily basis than the Elizabethan or Catherine of Aragon gown. Looks much more comfortable and practical. I noticed the underarms are kept free w/ detachable sleeves and parltlet. For hygiene purposes?

[@melaniecronn3812]

Once again, another stunning vid. I loved it

[@Nzie]

Love these videos, Izabela! I guess that smock neckline must be pretty broad to accommodate nursing (of course not something you can demonstrate in a video for us!). I have the Tudor Tailor book and made a kirtle, but I need to remake the bodice; your videos were some inspiration the first go round, and hopefully when I can remake it I'll get the fit better. But also I can see now that my expectations for the closure were mixed up (it doesn't need to be 100% together, but can have space), so thanks for that. :-)

[@wdestrempsmecke]

All of your videos are so informative and completely charming. I am currently in school for historical costuming and what could be so fascinating is dry and boring. You make it fun and interesting.

[@gunpladad9290]

I'm looking at this, trying to figure out how I can make this modern. Hmmm.....

[@sinndymorr6358]

Lol..I am quite happy to see your Cat but I do enjoy all of your content 😻 I think the deep orange fabric is so beautiful!

[@emmabroughton2039]

Your videos always make me so happy!

[@christinemoccia477]

A masterpiece come to life!!!!! Absolutely lovely!!!

[@RinaKains]

I got so inspired and made myself a dress :))) Thank you so much, your vidros are amazing!!!

[@PLuMUK54]

I have often wondered how comfortable the shoes were, not having left or right. Apparently they were very hard to wear in, and I've read that the better off would make a servant wear them for a while to get them ready worn in. Some years back I had re-enactors in to talk to my classes. The man said there was no problem with the shoes, but I noticed his wife shaking her head, so I think that she did not agree.

[@racheltheclumsy]

Would love to see an example of Tudor gown with a lace-up front!

[@Bullen_3]

ooh,that would be awesome!

[@bustedkeaton]

This is so inspiring!! I really like the colors

[@さび猫-t9b]

待ってました。大好きな動画です。いつも楽しみにしています。

[@Crosshill]

"I've been looked forward to this. I love these videos and I always enjoy them" ~

[@PintoPassion]

Such a gorgeous rust colour

[@sldulin]

wonderful, wonderful video. Thank you for creating this content and putting it out there where it can be accessed for free.

[@deborahrochefort9794]

Lovely - and I very much enjoyed the music too. I look forward to seeing that new book as well!

[@terraforry9539]

Deborah Rochefort I am in complete agreement

[@anidleteen]

I used to do historical reenactment, but I was of lower class My dress, though similar, was blue as blues and greens were the cheapest fabric, and obviously aprons etc were white as that was the cheapest. The sleeves were mandatory unless you were inside your own house, or working, so when I had to leave to walk around I had to have sleeves on - this meant I never unpinned them, just kept them tied behind my back so I could easily slip them on (I found them very uncomfortable though) Its interesting how easy you found the lacing, I definitely struggled with it everyday However, I loved wearing the outfit! It was so fun and comfortable, and I love the way the bodice sits, I miss doing the reenactment

[@thebookwyrmslair6757]

I hope for this to come back in style! Much kinder to blessed assets, mix and match, etc. Why was black so expensive a dye?

[@thebe1azi500]

Lynn Shallue it's really hard to come by naturally as either some rare mineral oxides or even squid ink had to be used. You also had to use a lot of dye to get it to be black as opposed to grey

[@OcarinaSapphr-]

The process of dyeing was obviously time-consuming, whatever the dye- some dyes had to be imported (so there was expense to consider), you had to use mineral fixatives to hold the natural dyes- also expensive. I heard there was a Spanish or Italian breed of sheep that produced naturally black wool- it was possibly imported; it would have been a real money-maker (but England was becoming Protestant in this era, & both Spain & Italy were Catholic nations, so that might have some impact on trade), but most everything else had to be dyed (though many forget that wool, silk & linen also had natural colours: cream, ecru, pale beige, off-white, pale grey & brown); bleaching was another time-consuming & expensive process. Darker, richer colours were more expensive than the more common colours most natural dyes created (madder created the ever-popular rich red that people loved- most natural dyes created softer colours- a lot of greens, yellows & browns) - overdyed indigo or woad (both blue dyes) could create an almost-black looking colour- bearberry produced violet grey (alum as the fixative), & charcoal black (possibly the 'poor black' she was talking about, swapping the alum for iron)- & meadowsweet produced a black shade, too. Iron was a 'saddening agent', which dulled & deepened colours - however, iron also wore away fabric & thread over time.

[@thebookwyrmslair6757]

@@OcarinaSapphr- Wow!! Thank you for sharing such in-depth knowledge!!

[@Marialla.]

Surely they had different clothes for nursing mothers? Not only would lacing/unlacing such a kirtle get really problematic every four hours with a newborn, but the linen shift has no access other than hiking it up from the floor. Some shifts must have been designed with wide gathered necks that could be eased down? Or perhaps a discreet slit sewn in? The hook and bar arrangement might be useful, if it hooked on both sides so you could choose your necessary access, or even flap the front down out of the way for cleanliness. But I'm just guessing, I have no idea even how to try to research this.

[@sgac4670]

Check out the many artworks of the Virgin Mary with baby Jesus! They all show clothing could be easily pulled aside.

[@spacecat_scribbles]

That kirtle looks very pretty! I love the orange color.

[@civillady13]

When you were lacing up the kirtle did you use one lace to go up and if so I think it would be very helpful to see a short tutorial or a close-up of how exactly you secured the lacing when you were done. Beautiful work as always!

[@MizzKittyBichon]

Further proof that the past was much kinder to us busty ladies than the present.

[@clare5one]

Yes, but a well fitted bra is everything.

[@MizzKittyBichon]

@@clare5one Bras don't allow as customized of a fit as the kirtle shown in the video or even a corset or pair of stays. It's all in the laces!

[@clare5one]

@@MizzKittyBichon I was referring to 20th-21st C. underwear.

[@lorettadg6815]

True! It's so difficult to find a blouse or shirt that fits both at the waist and at the bust. If it fits at the bust it's too loose at the waist, and if the waist fits just right the bust is getting flattened

[@ClockworkCouture.]

Truer words have never been spoken

[@Tina06019]

This is great! Thank you so much. I always choose a persona of the "middling sort" to represent, because I can't stand wearing floor-length gowns. My garb always ends either at the lower edge of the calf or just above the ankle, regardless of the era.

[@kathleenstewart409]

I always look forward to your videos. They are just so enjoyable! Why did they prefer straight pins being shown? I guess I'm wondering if there were safety pins that could be hidden but used in place of straight pins being shown on the front. Or anywhere as well. Thank you so much for sharing!!!

[@priorattire]

Safety pins were invented in 1849...

[@ximena15367]

Priorattire: outside in rich black gown and sunglasses Tudor neighbors: She got that good stuff

[@VoxUrania]

Delightful glimpse of Tudor fashion. Where do you get the fabric to match these projects? That’s probably a tale in itself. Also, would a middle class Tudor family own a mirror? Or would women fit themselves by feel instead of looks? A maid would probably help to check the line and fit of garments for a wealthier woman. Fascinating to ponder. Thanks again.

[@priorattire]

The Tudor Tailor shop on etsy!

[@ДоманеСкучно-л4ш]

Спасибо огромное!!!!! С удовольствием вас смотрю!!!!! Очень интересно и познавательно!!!!!😀

[@lesliekendall5668]

Instead of asking, I looked it up. Dresses only began having pockets in the 17th century. A necessity I hate to do without.

[@sisuguillam5109]

Prior to that - if I remember correctly- they just tied large baglike pockets around the waist!

[@sophiejones7727]

before that pockets were a separate garment! Something I, for one, would like to see come back. That actually persisted as an option until the beginning of the 20th Century.

[@lesliekendall5668]

@@sophiejones7727 Yes, I know. But they're easily ripped off, just like a purse. And some people would consider them a 'vanity' item.

[@sophiejones7727]

@@lesliekendall5668 no, they were under the skirt :) ripping one off would have been tricky, since you'd have to slip your hand inside her skirt without her noticing! Actually much more secure than a purse. It's just about as secure as a modern pocket if your seamstress knows what she's doing: but with all the convenience of a modern purse (no need to empty it in the evening or restuff it in the morning).

[@lesliekendall5668]

@@sophiejones7727 Where were they located on the skirt? And I only wear dresses. Were they available on dresses, too?

[@kkoup35]

I love your videos! Question - on a windy day how would you prevent the white triangular kerchief from blowing off your shoulders? I’m surprised that isn’t pinned in place as well??

[@lunatundrabird2135]

i think i would be pinned

[@elmacor]

I love your videos so much! I get lost in time...

[@davehampton5498]

These videos are so much fun to watch and informative just glad I didn't live in that period.

[@cloggyd9784]

That was a real treat thankyou.

[@nancyvolker3342]

ooo the Tudor conference lasts right up till my birthday to bad that big old pond is in the way

[@terraforry9539]

I know you probably don't like talking in your videos but I'm really curious as to how to pronounce some of these words like coif. I'm from america and can only imagine how they are pronounced clothing everyday objects that have new names. Sounds fun

[@AlexandraLynch1]

coif is COY-fff in a Midwestern accent.

[@dgoodwin5239]

Thanks so much. And thanks for including the date range too. Always enjoy these very much.

[@wendynordstrom3487]

I want that black gown! I would wear it everywhere in cooler weather.

[@phoebej1332]

this is really interesting 🤔 and so many layers ! I kinda wish I could wear it to see what I would look like as a tudor

[@cindykincade589]

What is YOUR favorite fashions and from what time?

[@theoriginalsuzycat]

Whenever I see lacing in these videos I think of the evil queen trying to kill Snow White with too-tight laces.

[@breadandcircus1]

Wonderful video. Your creativity is extraordinary !

[@susannahallanic1167]

...and thank you for making this entertaining mini-drama. No blood this time!

[@loganziomek5941]

I love these

[@Nevada_Dan]

Cute, cute, cute... no other words come to mind when I see Isabel.

[@aliceadler4569]

Merlin is so cute!!! A perfect kitty!!! I love your videos even tho I am not a seamstress ...

[@AnUnknownGoddess]

Oh my, did she just flaunt that lovely ankle? So scandalous.😯

[@MiljaHahto]

How interesting, again. I find the upper corners of the apron quite qurious.

[@andreahultman1963]

I did too! Interesting silhouette created in that area. Maybe adds interest to an otherwise plainer outfit?

[@pdelmercado]

Very interesting.....and a precious kitty too.

[@ellamyus]

Thanks for an other fantastic vid!!

[@cyclinggirl3212]

The girl in these videos has a natural, flawless beauty hard to find today, that is why she can really pull this off. Thank you really enjoyed these.

[@davehampton5498]

She is very cute and classy but sure knows her stuff it tires me out watching her get into these outfits