How to make an ebike with Yose Power ebike conversion kit

[@darkgoodness2108]

Thanks - I ordered this kit and watched this video before it arrived, it helped me prepare a little better when it came to installing it. I fitted it to my old hybrid bike with V-brakes from 2012. I've so far done 100 miles with the kit installed, and am very happy with it! Although I'm slightly concerned about its longevity and how long it will last me, but it seems decent enough quality so far. It gives my bike a boost and 2WD for extra traction, I can now climb steep hills when commuting without being completely exhausted afterwards, even if I still have to pedal and work in tandem with the motor. It's great for accelerating too when I need it, like when in traffic - Keeps me safer. I bought a torque arm and a waterproof dust cover for the battery just to be on the safe side. If I know it'll be raining hard, I also duct tape a bin liner around the battery - Maybe I'm paranoid. The rest of the kit seems to be quite water resistant. I had to rearrange the washers to stop the motor rubbing on the forks - The torque arm came with its own washers, so I was able to re-use one that came with the kit. I also installed the battery by bolting six hose clips to the bottom of the plate, taping the rubber inserts in place, and used extra rubber from an old tractor tyre inner tube on the underside of the frame - It's much more secure than using the tiny little bottle cage screws, and was easier than drilling new holes. Hiplok sell armoured metal cable ties, so I've bought one to tie the battery to the frame as a layer of security. I bought velcro cable ties and installed the motor cable last, making it easier to remove the front wheel if I need to change to studded winter tyres, or fix a flat. The light which comes with the kit is good as an auxiliary, but isn't quite bright enough to be relied upon by itself at night. I use a powerful head torch on my helmet, and it's great when used with that.

[@poppew]

How do you like the kit after four months? Anything break?

[@DarkHoodness]

@@poppew ​Done 1,090 miles (1,754 km) with it, it's had near daily use since mid winter, and now I think that living without it would be difficult. :) I bought a bike trailer for shopping, the motor helps me tow heavy loads (30KG+) home up the steep hills, though I keep the output to below or around 200w to not wear it out as much. Sometimes I get off and use the "push" function when doing this if the hills are that steep. I've not experienced any major issues so far. Last month, it kept turning off randomly when going over bumps, I solved this by reconnecting everything and using electrical tape to hold the connections together to stop this happening again, as the one between the controller and the computer came lose somehow. The front light failed and is now dim, but it's not essential, as I use a head torch on my helmet. I've not got around to contacting Yose Power or looking for a compatible replacement yet.

[@TheRealObamagaming]

@@DarkHoodness are you still using the kit? how is it now?

[@DarkHoodness]

​@@TheRealObamagaming I've now done 2,820 miles (4538 km) since December 2021, no current issues, the battery still holds a charge, but then I don't let the output go over 200w for very long and normally keep it between 150-180w. Gonna get me some battery terminal grease for it soonish. The wire sheathing is starting to look weathered, so I'll be pleasantly surprised if it lasts the full 10,000 miles/three years as it's supposed to. However, even if it failed tomorrow, it is now cheaper than if I did the same distance with a car. Perhaps I've been lucky. People have reported problems with the "Push" mode which assists with wheeling the bike at low speed if you hold down the lower button - Apparently this can cause the controller to overheat and eventually burn out, so while I've not had this issue myself, I no longer use this feature just in case. The kit still works just fine when cycling.

[@valentinvalientemorales]

I bought the same kit. Thanks a lot, your video has helped me very much. But it's not so easy take out the pedal in an old and rusty bike 😂

[@LDWilliams]

Just so that people know, the throttle is used to assist you when starting off. That means that you can start off without peddling, But, it Will stop at 6kmh and you Will then Have to continue peddling for the motor to work.

[@DIY.Invented]

Yes

[@jeanyluisa8483]

"A professional bike, very clean ....." - yeah, I really couldn't think of any nicer cable routing ;-) I already build a bike with a Yose Power rear wheel kit and watched this video to see how the cable are routed properly for front wheel kit. So now I at least know a way to do it quick and very dirty :-)

[@Masochisti]

Very good video, thank you. Is it any good when going uphill?

[@matwastaken]

It's safe to 2x this video.

[@GeoStreber]

Does anyone know if the pedal sensor fits for Shimano Deore Hollowtech cranks? I have the feeling that the pedalcrank is too close to the ball bearing case.

[@michaelrowland6538]

Wow so easy to fit a kit to your bike just slice your handlegrips and drill holes in your frame and put screws in, the easy and money saving way not the proper and safe way. I have this Yose Power kit and having to drill holes to fit a 3.5kg battery too. I have 21 years in mechanics and made many alterations and repairs to vehicles, number 1 rule is you get very rarely a strieght forward job, different manufacturers secure parts differently on their vehcles, there is some standard features and universal parts are suitable for the mojurity of vehicles rather car, motor cycle or cycle, so Yose Power conversion kit would fit mojurity of cycles with very little or no adjustment at all, I have two road cycles my Viking my kit would fit no trouble but my Tiger Quantum I want to fit it to as the same problem as Dr Tool Hacker, even so my does have a bottle holder only one of the fittings will do the other the controller gets in the way so yes having to drill to make it fit. What Dr Tool Hacker forgets there is 3.5 KG this holder as got to hold while cycling, there are frames made out of different metal, Alluminium, steel AND Fibre, Should never ever drill holes in Fibre frames, you will have to make alternative battery fittings. Steel and Alluminium frames just drilling and putting screws in and having a weight of 3.5kg in my opinion isn't secure enough. The only way of doing this properly is drilling the frame and putting inserts in, screws alone are not secure emough for the weightv and over time will work lose. Inserts you can put small bolts in without putting a nut behind it and this will last much longer. It is safer but if you want a strong eBIke to last years its worth doing it properly and putting that little more time and expense in.

[@shojibhussain5144]

Hi. Can I just only use the throttle and not connect the speed sensors on the crank.

[@Wattwurm0815]

Yes you can

[@michaeldewes1254]

@Dr Tool Hacker: Awesome video, thanks a lot! Do you think I'll need to change the front fork in order to avoid it breaking? And also, rubber brakes will do? I'm not sure if I should give it a try...

[@xMrjamjam]

You want hydraulic brakes as a bare minimum for any electric vehicle

[@LDWilliams]

​@@xMrjamjamI disagree for 2 reasons. 1) these bikes are limited to 25kmh, normal brakes can already cope with this speed. 2) as soon as you brake, the power is cut to the motor

[@ralbenizr9451]

I have a very bad experience with a Yose Power kit. Spokes are not good enough and I have to change a broken one regularly. I finally have changed all of them. Original spokes were 13G and nowadays I use 12G.

[@poppew]

What kind of riding do you do? I am mainly planning to bike on the road. Will I still break spokes on road?

[@ralbenizr9451]

I use the bike to go to work instead of my car. A couple of kerbs but mainly by road. I think that the spokes are not good enough

[@DarkHoodness]

The motor adds a lot of unsprung weight to the front of your bike, you ought to be gentle with it, IMO. I've been fine so far by avoiding potholes and big bumps, but getting off to lower the bike gently down kerbs is a pain, and some pot holes aren't avoidable. I've still had to tighten some spokes which have worked loose. I'm considering replacing my front forks with suspension ones to solve this problem.

[@bvilasinee]

If my bike has hydraulic brakes, do I need to change the levers? Thank you.

[@DIY.Invented]

You don’t need

[@bvilasinee]

@@DIY.Invented thank you.

[@HeinzSchumacher]

But for what is this Triengle (Controler) Bag you did not explain?

[@michaeleddison6765]

It's just a free gift, it's not needed for the controller because the controller is built in to the battery, but the bag still comes in handy for some bike tools and puncture repair kit

[@jeromebachmann7837]

good job

[@boyced]

what speed do you get? is it limited?

[@LDWilliams]

Limited to 25kmh

[@ivanmikhaylov1103]

You have a caster break on the rear wheel. The motor accelerates, when you turn your pedals backwards to break. Is not it wrong?

[@michaeleddison6765]

Motor only activates when pedalling in one direction, if it did activate when pedalling backwards then it won't activate when pedalling forward, and to fix that you can move the pedal assist to the left side if it was installed on the right side, or the easiest way is to just change the settings to activate when pedalling forward

[@hanspz5505]

Bike noob here, is this a single speed bike?

[@yaowen1437]

how long is the Spokes???please help

[@johncollins1379]

There is only one red wire coming out of my battery and I can't see where to connect it to control box ..is there a wire to earth the battery ?

[@thehemmo5078]

controlbox is embedded in the battery holder

[@Nguyentrilinhvlog]

Qua tiet voi ban oi .likt ❤❤❤👍👍👍🤝

[@sajaykj8201]

Tyre size pls 700x35c is ok ??

[@BikeOnRoadLondon]

does the motor cut out if you stop pedelling?

[@matwastaken]

-In this setup, yes. If you add the thumb throttle you can control it manually.-

[@LDWilliams]

​@@matwastakenincorrect, the thumb control only works up to 6kmh.mit is to assist you getting started only.

[@matwastaken]

My mistake; I have a FEIYU controller, which doesnt have that limitation. My apologies.

[@pawefiett2468]

13:05 'very clean' - shows kilometers of cables!

[@dot2562]

Benny Hill 😂😂😂

[@frklabul2129]

250 Volt Tire?😁😁😁

[@VaivaVM_BoredPandaStudios]

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[@fabiobernardelli7190]

Hello! I put the 250W front wheel and I'd like to know if it's possible to remove or unblock the 25km/h limiter and how to do that. Thank you very much

[@gabrielet.114]

ciao,prova a impostare la misura ruota con una più piccola dal display(se c'è la possibilità)io ho fatto così,e in quel modo non fa più 25 ma 32/33 reali da gps)perchè una ruota più piccola per la centralina deve fare più giri per avere la stessa velocità di una grande(esempio riota da 28 e ruota da 24/22), la centralina farà segnare una velocità più bassa del reale sul display,dando più giri alla ruota e fermandosi solo ai 25kmh del display,anche se in realtà sono 32/33..