very enjoyable Absolutely wonderful upload Thanks for sharing Blessings amazing vlog really fascinating dear keep it up
@driftoragon2 жыл бұрын
Hi Thank you for dropping by and I hope you find this video entertaining .
@BaNZFall10 ай бұрын
Outstanding! Gotta do it to mine.
@wekitralph3 жыл бұрын
salamat paps!
@driftoragon3 жыл бұрын
Salamat din sir.
@kingkazu88832 жыл бұрын
Mine has alot of play in the steering at full lock, how can I get rid of this? Great vid man 👌🏻
@toyotadiy14973 жыл бұрын
what is that music at 10:55
@driftoragon2 жыл бұрын
Hi Good day! Thank you for asking! The music title is Romeo Chrombinson by Watercat, check https:icons8.com/music
@silinalexandr3 жыл бұрын
where did you get Spacers to decrease ackeman angle?
@driftoragon2 жыл бұрын
Hi Good Day, thank you for asking. I have those as extra part from other kit but you can get as set from RC Mart check the link below www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-aluminum-m3-flat-washer-0-25-0-5-1-1-5-2-2-5-3mm-10pcs-set-black-ya-0390bk-00059761
@alcyon2sp3 жыл бұрын
Could you measure the track width of the front and rear with 6mm offset rims.
@driftoragon2 жыл бұрын
Hi Good day! Thank you for asking. Let me get back to you with the actual measurements. Since I run almost stock and didn't add spacers in the front suspension arms, using 6mm rim offset will get the default track width 200mm as they advertise. That would be same with the rear, but yeah will measure it to be sure.
@lakwatsera09883 жыл бұрын
sana all madami views
@driftoragon3 жыл бұрын
Chamba lang yan! nag kataon lang dakol naka hahanap about jan.
@KCSH0303033 жыл бұрын
did you turn the steering knob on TX for the car to drift? Looks like you were only changing the throttle?! Amzingly smooth!
@driftoragon3 жыл бұрын
Hi good day. Thanks, I didn't touch the steering knob. The kit was capable of running smoothly that's why. It's a bit easier when using a narrower track width on the rear. In this set up, I'm using 9mm front, 5mm rear.
@KCSH0303033 жыл бұрын
@@driftoragon wow. Don't know how you control the left right and straight movement without using the steering knob. Amazing. Gotta learn more from you!!!
@andiwinoto47353 жыл бұрын
Hi..nice video...i just want to know your experience use this kit after mod compare with your yokomo yd2..with same electronic off course... maybe pros n cons about that 2 kit..tq
@driftoragon3 жыл бұрын
Hi Good Day, thank you for asking. I have tried the same electronics with yd2, rmx2, d4, and d5. I was actually planning to do a video on that soon. With the stock D5 settings including the rims and tires. The rims have a contact with the tie rod, a bit harder to transition, and spins out on extreme angle. After the mod, the transition is a bit better and can handle extreme angle. I just feel that my yd2 is still a bit faster compared to my d4 and d5. Would probably better to just upload a video regarding that. I'll try my best to be able to upload a content regarding that. I was waiting for the tamiya paint to arrive and upload the body shell vlog. main problem is it's been Nov of last year.
@andiwinoto47353 жыл бұрын
@@driftoragon tq for your answer....cos many kit offer different price..pros n cons...i will wait for your video comparation for all them....tq so much ..keep safe n healthy 🙏
@driftoragon3 жыл бұрын
Hi yes, thank you. Just for an advance answer, Just base on my personal preference when it comes to the performance, quality, parts availability, and driving preference. YD2 is still the best choice for some reasons, mainly because of the performance, build quality, aftermarket parts, and it's proven to be a great machine. RMX2 is a good chassis, and been out in the market for quite a while now, good performance out of the box, good quality, my only problem here is the small extra tuning options that it can't do without buying the upgrade on suspension block. D4 is good, D4 is ok, D4 is capable. Some people will say that every time a possible new enthusiasts ask. Well it's true, given that it's not stock. It maybe cheaper, but the cost of having it perform like the previous two above, sometimes will cost you a second chassis. People could say then I'll just buy those upgrade parts, it's possible but the thing is, there are a lot and some of them doesn't work, most of them just look good. Most of the best D4 parts are out of stock and hard to find, they are rare. D5 is good out of the box. It works! Performs way better then D4, with proper tuning its almost like yd2 and rmx2. This the best entry-level chassis. It doesn't have much aftermarket parts as of writing but soon there will be. And good set of electronics should also be considered. At least somewhere in mid level. Hopefully this helps a bit. Again, thank you for coming here and spending some time.
@andiwinoto47353 жыл бұрын
@@driftoragon wowww...tq so muchh...every beginer must see your answer..very detail n honest experien e with all of stuff n same electronic same player...i hope can see your videos about all all them...very2 helpfull for me 🙏
@aiorimotov.2537 ай бұрын
Sakura D5mr ba Sir pwede na pang competition?
@m.a.fulgencio74123 жыл бұрын
Who made your measuring board ? Ty
@driftoragon3 жыл бұрын
Hi Good Day! Apologies for the late reply. Set-up board was made by DS Racing. It was bought during the Thailand International Drift Competition. They have a Facebook page you can check them out. Hopefully this helps and thank you for coming by and asking ☺️
@chinolee2812 жыл бұрын
boss pano kaya yung sa steering ko nag lolock pag full angle? hindi bumabalik
@driftoragon2 жыл бұрын
Hi Good Day! Thank you for dropping by and watching. Need mo boss i-adjust yung sa steering link nun. tapos ilipat mo ng butas na pinagkakabitan. tapos lagay mo rin yung kasama na stopper. yung default settings sa manual kunting adjustment lng yun para umayos takbo. gamit ka 9mm offset sa harap 5° camber palit ka ng 16mm turnbuckle para sa steering need mo rin ng yokomo curve connectors
@PopalongRC4 жыл бұрын
nice vid .... how much better than the D3 is the D5... ive been away from drifting for a while :(
@driftoragon3 жыл бұрын
Hi good day. Thank you for asking. I haven't try running a D3. I did try a D4 AWD before and most of my AWD experience is from my Tamiya TT02. First D3 is AWD and the experience, handling, and behavior is really different with RWD regardless of what chassis it is. RWD is much mor fun as it is a lot more realistic. If you are used to AWD it will be a little bit tricky starting with RWD. With regards to the out of the box capabilities, the D5 surpassed the D4 in that area and would highly recommend to get D5 due to the price, time, and effort your going to save versus if you're going to get a D4 or you're gonna convert the D3 to RWD. Hopefully this helps and you would be able to make a come back in the hobby.
@austinpayton86433 жыл бұрын
Not sure if anyone cares but yesterday I hacked my girl friends Instagram password by using Instaplekt. Cant link here so search for it on google enjoy!
@nateriver52593 жыл бұрын
So is it jst change yokomo conector and add 2mm spacer in front sir?
@driftoragon3 жыл бұрын
Hi good day! Thank you for asking. Yes I've changed the steering link with Yokomo Curve Connector. Then add a 2mm spacer on the knuckle arm to help eliminate the extra bump steer and have a much parallel ackerman. Aside from that, I did also add some other spacer. Currently 1.5mm at the top of knuckles and 1mm at the top of rear upright. Hopefully this helps.
@daflashislit3 жыл бұрын
How much does the motor stick out the back?
@driftoragon3 жыл бұрын
Hi good day! Thank you for asking question. Measured using caliper. - From the end of rear tire to the end of motor its 55-60mm. - From the end of rear lower deck to the end of motor its 40-45mm. - From the end of the rear damper tray to the end of motor its 60-65mm. Hopefully this helps.
@nateriver52593 жыл бұрын
Sir front wheel hub hex how milimeter?
@driftoragon3 жыл бұрын
Hi Good Day! Apologies for the late reply. For the Sakura D4/D5 they have the same hex for the wheels. The one I currently use is tje stock one which is 4mm. No added shims/spacer. For the rims if would ask, offset is 9mm. Hopefully this helps and thank you for coming here and asking.
@nateriver52593 жыл бұрын
@@driftoragon isnt tht toe?
@driftoragon3 жыл бұрын
Hi yes, there's a toe out in front. I didn't have an exact measurements but it's somewhere 2-4°.
@mohammadnaaim53664 жыл бұрын
How % Shock oil front and rear. To smooth like that..
@driftoragon3 жыл бұрын
Hi good day, Thank you for asking. At the moment, I run from the stock oil which is #200. It's the one that came with the kit. But in most of my set-up, I use 250 front, 350 rear. You can also try swapping them, 350 front, 250 rear, soft spring front, hard spring rear. Hopefully this helps.
@scivanpoon3 жыл бұрын
how to adjust downstop? thanks!
@driftoragon3 жыл бұрын
Hi Good Day! Apologies for the late reply. Not quite sure what you mean but if it's the droop, then to limit it, you'd have to adjust the droop limiter screw. Unfortunately for Sakura D5, it didn't come with the screws so you'll have to provide. Hopefully this helps and thank you for coming here and asking.
@hetlarfje4 жыл бұрын
How wide is your drift track?
@driftoragon4 жыл бұрын
Hi, thank you for asking. It's a small indoor track about the size of a bed room 2m wide and 3.5m in length.
@drewdrew6283 жыл бұрын
I have a D5 I just built. I have hobby wing 120 amp ESC and also HobbyWing 10.5 turn brushless censored motor. I have V4 yokomo gyro. I cannot get the car to drift right no matter what. You're drifting it with one finger. What am I doing wrong? Lol maybe we can communicate email and I can send you a video?
@driftoragon3 жыл бұрын
Hi Good day! Thank you for asking, pardon for the late reply I was out for some time. regarding your question, It depends on what was the behavior of your kit. Base on previous experience, it could be in your electronics, gear ratio, and chassis set-up. for the electronics, a bad servo can also be a cause, too low or high gyro gain, tx epa and or dual rate. for the gears it could be that the fdr is not well suited for the surface you are running and lastly for the chassis set up it could be a bad ackerman, too much caster and/or camber angle, stiff steering system and bad damper set up. so far these are the things I could think of as a cause. Feel free to message my facebook page, same name.