Drilling out some 4 lug VW drums to 5 lug Porsche pattern

[@theayatollahofrockandrollah]

nice work man...the way you made that jig plate and mark it with name and also the dimensions for future use and reference is pure cult like you only see in German or Swiss engineering...btw one would be inclined to think that switching to a 5 bolt pattern would open up all sorts of options for upgrading the brakes to any system you want and get rid of those ancient drums to boot...but what do I know...

[@ecdezz]

Yea, I have so many fixture plates laying around here that I had to start labeling them. the dimensions came after I did one and had to keep running back and forth to the computer. Live, learn and do better the next time. Unfortunately on these since the bolt pattern is threaded into the drum if you change the brakes over to disc you loose your drilled drum. most disc brakes kits come in a variety of bolt patterns though so there's options all around.

[@itswillstuff]

Hello mate! cool video - I'm in a similar boat mate. I have some five lug drums that I need to redrill a four-lug pattern into, to fit my little 6 cylinder mustang. I'm hoping the guys in the garage can do as good a job as you, but I don't know if they have a cool machine like this thing.

[@stephenlepore4476]

great video! thank you sir!

[@ecdezz]

Thank you much!

[@carlosgarcia7838]

Hi I’m just coming across ur video cause I’m doing a 1964 vw beetler and I need to do the same thing for my front drum and I can not find no one in town to do this type of machine work. What state are you in?

[@ecdezz]

@@carlosgarcia7838 I'm in virginia, where are you?

[@zyrabell69]

I have a 1989 5.0 convertible that I added a Saleen body kit, and my friend has a set of 5 lug Saleen rims with tires from LMR he offered for a good price. They sell a 5 lug conversion kit, but I know it's possible to do it this way. But I was wondering if it's considered safe since I have a V8 engine and will be doing freeway driving, etc? I wasn't sure if drilling the new holes will compromise the strength of the metal especially since Mustangs have a lot more torque than a VW. Thanks in advance!

[@ecdezz]

With the VW's going from 4 lug to 5 you're adding one more attachment point so even though the back of the drum is various thicknesses (thicker where the stock holes are) the additional hole gives you almost the exact same thread engagement. For the mustang, I really don't know if it's safe or not. You do have more power your dealing with and the wheels being attached are kind of important :) There has to be someone around who's done it though. They'd be in a better position to answer the safety questions.

[@zyrabell69]

@@ecdezz Thank you for your feedback!

[@piccilos]

hey, long time no see, glad the tormach is still earning its keep. Didn't realized you were running Mach3. Have you considered updating to Pathpilot?

[@ecdezz]

Yea thanks, I got a bit burned out. I have Pathpilot on the tormach; I was doing these on the Hurco I retrofitted.

[@piccilos]

@@ecdezz can you show it in a video? I'm running a tormach, but on the look out for a good fadal

[@ecdezz]

@@piccilos Let me see what I can do. I'm getting ready to move it so maybe I'll record that debacle and do an overview at the same time. For mine, the retrofit cost right about $1,000. I re-used the motors and whatever else I could and I don't have a tool changer so that kept costs low. All told I have probably 20-30 hours in the retrofit and that's coming from no experience. It's a different animal than the Tormach. I'd do it again though but next time I'd attempt a tool changer. I also retrofitted a Hardinge lathe with an Accuslide CNC attachment. That one was abut $4,000 in parts because I went a nicer on the parts and replaced the motors. Centroid over Mach3 added to the cost too but I needed a spindle encoder and Mach3 doesn't support it. Keep an eye on the machine auctions; I see Fadal's come up all the time. Depends on location too.

[@oldestries]

Can you do the same with 4x100 to 5x100?

[@ecdezz]

Can't think of any reason why not. Are the drums/rotors drilled and tapped like the ones I did or are they pressed in studs like a "normal" car?

[@oldestries]

@@ecdezz its pressed in I think, its the centerhubs, rotors floating.

[@ecdezz]

@@oldestries What's the year, make and model?

[@stewartgates4011]

Can you do my drums?

[@ecdezz]

No reason I can't. I've been telling the local guys $100 for a pair or $180 for all 4; plus return shipping.

[@xashsav9762]

Where can I get this done

[@ecdezz]

Any machine shop should be able to handle it. Don't know what the cost would be though. They're also sold new with both bolt patterns.

[@xashsav9762]

I need a pair of brake drums for a 2000 Toyota Corolla with the bolt pattern redrilled 5x114.3

[@ecdezz]

@@xashsav9762 That'll be more difficult. Unlike the bug where the wheels attach to the drums the toyota appears to have the more traditional setup where the drum is sandwiched between the wheel and a backer where the studs are actually pushed through. If you can get it apart a machine shop should be able to do it. However, when going from 4 lug to 5 the diameter needs to be the same to avoid intersecting holes (mine was 4x130 to 5x130). Adapters may be a viable option.