Dust Collection: Small Changes, Massive Effect!

[@CapturingDust]

Do you want to build this yourself? - STEP-Files for the Beta version of the Third Stage Separator are free to download in the shop for all my Patreon members: Patreon.com/capturingdust - Files to print the Centrifugal Separator at: github.com/Makerr-Studio/CentrifugalDustSeparator-

[@Seedyrom247]

KZbin recommended this video to me. Not sure why. Your video production quality is excellent. You’re a natural. I hope your channel gets huge. Looks like incredible information for a very niche community.

[@ninjarobotmonk3y]

I love how much effort you're put into experimenting and chasing down those last percentages. You've done such a good job of presenting your work too, you make it all look so simple, but I'm sure it wasn't! Thanks for taking the time to create, edit, and share.

[@CapturingDust]

Thank you for your kind words and taking the time to respond and watch the video! Documenting the process for film is indeed a lot of work but fun to do. I've gained a ton of respect for all the other creators on KZbin.

[@timderks5960]

2:47 A better idea to cover the motor outlets when not in use: Print something like a hydraulic one way valve. Simply put: You have a cup with a hole in the middle, that hole is the motor exhaust. In that cup lays a ball. When the motor is on, the ball is blown away, so no issue. When the motor isn't on, the ball is sucked against the cup, so it seals the opening. Obviously, you'd put something over the ball to contain it, so it only gets blown up and not away. I'd experiment with something like ping pong balls, since they're very light but quite strong, just not sure if they're big enough. By far the biggest benefit: Remove the thinking, so no possibility for errors.

[@reddtekk]

Agreed!! Exactly what I was thinking!

[@Jessersadler]

My suggestions. I would go to one tube, instead of the double swirl tubes. You're losing velocity, by having 2. Velocity is important in accelerating these particles outward. (hell, try just one of what you have, and see if you have any more efficiency) I would also step up the diameter and length of the tube after the swirl is introduced and where the collection is happening. These systems rely on inertia of the particles. The further out (diameter and depth) you can throw these particles, the less likely they are going to be recaptured by the incoming stream of air. Basically a widening cone shape after the swirl is introduced. Another thing you can do to help, is make it a vertical system. Air drawn from the top and swirls outward and down with gravity helping. With a system like that you could have a 360° particle trap, instead of just the notch you currently have. ** Also, a deflector just above your collection holes to help throw the particles into the bin. Although the best desgin for that would be a logarithmic swirl (snail shell) shape instead of the tube. Just make sure the the long and short radial dimensions are correct for your rotation. *** And yet another idea. At the end of the collection chambers, instead of just a flat shoulder, a spiral ramp (screw) in the direction of partical rotation would help direct the particals into the slots for the collection bin.

[@echoe09]

Great ideas. Espeically mounting it vertically and the importance of particle inertia so it doesn't get reintroduced into the stream.

[@littlejason99]

Really enjoying watching you go down this rabbit hole. Like someone else mentioned I think one big problem is static buildup which needs to be addressed. Or, on the flip side maybe the static could be used to help filter the smaller particles. In the HVAC industry they have "electronic air cleaners". Also I'm curious if building a multi-stage separator with each stage having a more aggressive fin angle than the previous to help push the smaller and smaller particles to the outside would be worthwhile to attempt.

[@BrianRousseau]

A worthy project. Thank you for sharing your results with us! 2:36: Instead of two parts, consider a single part with 'closed' and 'open' features on opposite ends.

[@cro2cl267]

absolutely loving this project

[@StormGod29]

Agreed. One of the best woodworking channels on YT at the moment just for the novelty of what is happening here.

[@akshi_az]

Really pleased to see that you fixed all the flaws that came to mind in the first design iteration! Please keep getting the numbers and comparing the results with/without each modification.

[@shicaaaaa]

your persistence amazes me! Great job! 👏

[@CapturingDust]

Thank you!

[@miketo09]

Ruud, thank you for your investigation and curious mind! This is what KZbin used to be and I'm so glad to see you bringing great content back! I haven't read all the comments from the previous videos, and I'm not familiar with the science of fluid dynamics. But I am a lifelong sailor and sailboat racer, and can confirm that even slight surface discrepancies cause problems -- one barnacle on a propeller can measurably affect drag and smooth water flow. I think this may be relevant for your build with the 3D printer. Surface friction will disrupt particle flow and cause static and particle buildup. Harvey's materials look like a polished metal surface; perhaps sanding and coating the printed parts would help. All guesswork, so if it makes sense, give it a try! Cheers from Seattle!

[@GimpGladly]

The secondary motor cover could be made to function as a check valve, similar but oposite to how a shop vac uses a ball float to stop suction when the water level gets too high. Inverted, the ball would pull down to close the secondary when not in use, and as soon as it comes on the ball can be allowed to "float" in a cage. Edit: add this to both motor outlets and you can optimise for equal runtime on both motors.

[@riotgear6891]

Brilliant idea

[@seeigecannon]

First video of I have seen of you. Neat. Something you can do to get more real-time information is make some manometers. Basically take some 6mm clear tubing and hang a loop down and add some colored water to it. If you put a ruler behind it you would be able to easily measure the difference between the liquid levels to get the static pressure. If you have one going from the green can to atmosphere that would tell you the static pressure of the motor, then you would be able to add more at the various fittings which would give you the static pressure at that fitting. If you added more from one section to another you would also be able to see what the pressure drop at that section is. Let me know if I need to explain this better. Keep up the good work.

[@CapturingDust]

Thx for your comment! I’m already working on the manometers. The colored water is a good tip! That was something I did not think of but for camera better visible

[@justcruisin109]

I think your work on designing a low cost separator is really amazing. I expect dust collector design is a classic non-linear optimisation problem with motor size, impeller size, air flow speed and volume, dust particle size and ducting design all being factors that affect the efficiency of the system. You could say that any dust collected by your design makes the system better than a single stage collector so I wouldn't get too hung up on efficiency - better is still better. I remember years ago that Bill Pentz made some helpful contributions to the science/engineering of dust collection and I think your work is making a similar contribution so thank you. I will continue to watch your discoveries and may be tempted to build one myself - I expect most of us have an old one or two horsepower dust collector in our sheds crying out to be modified and brought back into service. Cheers

[@CapturingDust]

Bill Pentz is a hero! His website is a real treasure.

[@fireheadpet2039]

Thank you so much for sharing your journey with us. Your videos are not only high quality, they are entertaining and a model in experimental engineering. Keep the amazing work going! Who knows, there might be a business lurking through all this work!

[@CapturingDust]

Your welcome! Thank you for your lovely comment. It’s a bit juggling with time because of my full time job but it’s a passion project of mine so I’m far from done with experimenting 😊

[@frijoli9579]

Love what you are doing here! On you impellers in the last stage, add a straight section of the fins that transitions into the curve. Right now the particles are impacting head-on into the blades impeding flow slightly.

[@ScottClevelandmi]

Stunning! I'm just as impressed with the results as I am with the cleanliness and organization of your workspace. You've got a lot of discipline.

[@JMAWWorks]

Really enjoying watching this design iterate to higher and higher efficiency.

[@mikeh4924]

My first time here, just subbed. I'll start with, I absolutely love what you did here and appreciate everything about this. This is not a sarcastic question. When you say you don't have the room for a typical cyclone, is it that you don't have enough vertical room? The one you built, is absolutely awesome, and very accessible, but honestly looks like it takes a little less space than my Grizzy wall mount + Dust Deputy. Yours is just horizonal and mine is vertical. I haven't seen any other videos and don't know what your shop looks like, but I love the content so far! Again, that is absolutely amazing! Great job!

[@kakke_no]

You can add a strip of aluminium tape running along one side of all the tubes or toward some of the tubes and ground it on one end to avoid static charge.

[@lonnymoore2622]

thats an awesome idea . i was thinking a bit of copper wire looped with in to give a path for the static but your idea is better albeit a bit harder to get smooth though for some one like him it should be simple to do . as for me i cant lay aluminum tape with it it crinkling lol.

[@AzmyAnything]

This doesn't work... Pvc being an insulator means that you're only removing the static charge from the single point area that the copper wire or tape (though the adhesive backing acts as an insulator too) is making contact with. The whole rest of the pvc part not in contact will still be statically charged. This works well with industrial ducting, but that's only when it's made from galvanised steel etc. Great video about it here... kzbin.info/www/bejne/r3KVY56Kqbtnjqssi=oPNkPgAJ59KJWPcV

[@brandonwalker5485]

Maybe a thin wire mesh covering the most problematic areas? Again, grounded somehow. I’ve made a simple ground by connecting a single wire to the ground lead of a standard three prong plug and inserting into a standard power outlet.

[@fortpatches]

@@AzmyAnything Like the guy says though, if it is done inside the pipe, it will remove static from the particles in the air flow.

[@AzmyAnything]

@@fortpatches Agreed. That could be helpful to reduce stronger static build up in the air... but won't remove the static charge from the ducting it self or where the wire isn't touching, so you'd still get dust being attracted to the pipes like in this vidja sadly! I guess you could coat the whole of the inside of the pipe with alu tape and ground that... but feels like you might as well get metal ducts at that point!

[@lonnymoore2622]

awesome work . love how you had broke everything down and quantified it ! i look forward to seeing more of your work.

[@ihsx9493]

One way to have a more "straight" air flow after the Y split is to use a honeycomb shape like mesh with a certain length. It is used in wind tunnel to make sure that the air flow is going straightforward without any rotation or bend before the test section

[@dylantoymaker759]

I was thinking about some other laminar flow solutions here, I like that this sounds fairly accessible. Will a useful mesh size work with the size of particles going through the system?

[@christophec.482]

Thanks for testing, sharing and being pedagogic 👍

[@jaymax97]

Really like these videos showing your iterative design. I’ve no use for a dust separator, but I like learning how others design things.

[@babaganuz2000]

For the static charge, maybe you can try wrapping an exposed copper wire along the PVC and printed parts, then ground the wire. This may improve your efficient for the plywood.

[@fortpatches]

Wrapping it on the outside of the PVC wouldn't work. PVC is an insulator - the copper wire wouldn't come into contact with the static charge if it is on the outside. Looking at @16:51 - I would try a thin layer of conductive paint on the areas with the most charge build-up and ground those spots specifically.

[@notsonominal]

I like how this really s*cks, and still blows my mind! Well played sir!

[@vikvanderhaeghen200]

Well done! Looking forward for the next video!

[@StormGod29]

Outstanding work! Your cutaway shots are especially helpful in picturing what is going on. I'm very curious to see what electrostatic precipitation can add to the equation.

[@missingpunctuation]

This is great - you need larger collection bins to improve fines separation

[@inkrpen]

Try printing some of your pieces in a conductive, carbon fiber reinforced filament, then add a ground strap to the system to reduce the static buildup.

[@klausnielsen1537]

Interesting solution. I was unaware that this was an option/possibility. TY.

[@blinky2035]

Most cf filaments aren't conductive. You can get ESD safe filaments that are designed to be

[@miscbits6399]

These filaments are highly abrasive and using them is a good case of obtaining a "DiamondBack nozzle" - which are extremely expensive ($350 for a 3 size set) , but a one-time purchase as they'll essentially last forever and work with any filament JerryRig Everything has a video on the production process, but essentially these are _harder_ than natural diamond

[@h0bbybob]

Made the seperator last week for my miter saw station because i don't have the height for a normal cyclone, it was time consuming but a great looking and functional project. changed the festool buckets for normal 30L buckets with a "Hooked on wood" style platform for easy removal, thanks Ruud for all your time and ideas and sharing them, i'm gonna wait a few videos before updating my system ;)

[@CapturingDust]

Good to hear the design worked out for your needs! Dennis is a really good source of inspiration (also for myself😀).

[@UlrichHarms-ci1ov]

Static charge can be a safty issue. For professional installation in Germany the pipes need grounding, as worst case discharge from static charge could cause a fire / explosion.The bigger danger for a fire inside the dust system is still from curring through opjects, like nails or stones in the wood, that can than cause a sparc.

[@kukken]

Don't do woodworking and do not have a workshop, but I love the channel and the work you do!

[@HotNoob]

this is awesome. ty for opensourcing it. i don't need one now, but now i know what i'll do in the future.

[@atsernov]

Reprint the cover as a tractor exhaust flap style cap. When the motor is on, it blows the cap upward. When the motor is off, gravity keeps the flap closed. No need to swap caps based on operation mode.

[@tz86dg]

This is awesome content. My 3d printer is in for a workout.

[@Chalupa6059]

Its very entertaining to watch such perseverance

[@woodworkingnook]

Very cool! I love the small footprint.

[@CapturingDust]

Especially when the bins underneath are removed. It will eventually be mounted above my thicknesser planer in the workshop.

[@8BitLife69]

Great project. Really want to make one, but need to get it dialed in, and maybe more compact final form factor for the shop.

[@cncgeneral]

You could also add some vibration to the separator section. The industrial Karcher vacuum cleaners I use at work have built in mechanisms to smack the filters every 20 seconds or so to remove built up dust.

[@AkosLukacs42]

Hey, great project! As others mentioned, you can try metallic paint. Or ESD safe filaments, not cheap, but available from multiple manufacturers and multiple materials. Maybe drop a mail to a filament manufacturer / 3d printing store, if you feel the price is high. I guess you went through several kilos of filament already.

[@ianloy1854]

Continue to love watching what you are doing. Perhaps you are now getting past the point of really needing to improve the centrifugal filter. This latest improvement is, I think, minimal for the pressure drop, complexity and additional room required. That said a good thing to look at what it can do - and as others have said useful in some other applications. Also it was great to see just how much "invisible" dust actually made it through to the vacuum and then out into your workshop for your room air cleaner to cleanup. As always it is the particles you can't see that are the worst. Regarding testing medium using sawdust from plywood etc is great for what you are doing now. But when you move onto your final steps MDF dust will be better to really challenge the system due to its much finer nature. As always great to watch and listen and looking forward to your next videos.

[@jackcoats4146]

Looks like you could use an anti-static coating or filament for some of the parts to keep the static charge from building up in the various sections.

[@mj-lp5eb]

fascinating work

[@HybridWoodworks]

I recently purchased a wide belt sander and I’m now on the hunt for a dust collector capable of capturing the very fine dust it generates without excessive filter maintenance. I live in a cold climate, so exhausting the air outside is not possible. Looking forward to seeing how this project develops and if I can get it to scale to 1000+ CFM.

[@mattym8]

I like a deep dive into anything nerdy with a Dutch accent. Takes me back to my brief stint working in Eindhoven.

[@liekeledijkstra]

Mooi werk man! Leuk om te zien :)

[@JamesFraley]

Great work. Very professional.

[@jrhedman8251]

I will absolutely be building this as soon as I’m back from holiday. But what I’m really interested in right now is your air filter box! I’ve been having to do a lot of drywall work and built a cheap Rosenthal box with some filters and tape but want something more robust for the downstairs shop. Do you have any plans about for its design? Thanks and I’ll be sure to share any results I find running it in my shop!

[@Self.reliant]

Thats pretty neat would lovexto see a shopvac sized one for my blaster cabinet

[@erniecamhan]

If you're going to use plastic parts, the airflow is going to cause static electricity that will attract the finer particles

[@SwabSiEm]

Please do a video on your filtration box system. I got a Cori-rosenthal box running in my workshop, using high static pressure pc fans, but been looking for something more powerful.

[@davelawler5353]

would love to see this

[@jarrodvsinclair]

great series, Thanks!

[@luuksta1027]

Thanks for the update! Great video.

[@dittilio]

once you add a deionising fan to the mix, I'd love to see a revised system level walk through. Each stage, sequentially, how it works and what it contributes, etc. Like a snapshot of your development.

[@BubbaSnipe]

My dad used to design ventilation systems and he worked well into his seventies. You need to be able to adjust the speed of the vac motors, that will increase the efficiency of the whole setup. Secondly, statically charged particles can actually set your filter elements on fire in the most extreme cases.

[@radboudski]

Wat een goede content! Het steenkolen Engels maakt het helemaal af 😉 Geabonneerd.

[@Gastell0]

To me, it looks like the first stage would benefit from a longer chamber from tip of the cone to the end of the stage, to provide more space for separated material to fall down. Though main issue seems to be the wedged shape into which particles get wedged, better method could be turning that wedge into shorter, but round shape

[@landcruiserscotland]

How did youtube know I'd enjoy this?

[@THE_saffywaffy]

dank you very much, jokes asides love your accent and thank you a ton for your research.

[@KMvrtr]

Houdoe war. En da ge bedankt zij da witte!😊

[@EdSteger-en6jj]

cool project looks great maybe if u change the shape of the input connection after the y split to a cone shape gradually making it larger from the small end to the big end. Also could make the cone like end of a horn with a curve from small to big and try a tear drop or football shape mounted inside the cone like the piece in front fan blades.

[@msk3905]

This is great but dang that thing is huge!

[@CapturingDust]

Work is not done yet. Compact version is in development 💡

[@malcolmhodgson7540]

Wow! Great content!

[@aadd3538]

I think your final filter should be a water reservoir filter. The only thing to do would be just to wash it. Use the hukka or Shisha principle. My opinion is it would be cheaper than a hepa.

[@Revvek]

I wonder if the small single fine dust section would work on my fiber galvo laser with metal and rock particles

[@lasarkolja9692]

Great progress 👍

[@uriahschoenwald4027]

Flip the motor cover 180 and model them together so you just turn it over to use the cover or breather

[@tanaes]

With coffee grinders, spritzing a very tiny amount of water into the beans before grinding dramatically decreases static charge. I wonder if spraying a tiny amount of deionized water into the duct during operation would similarly help with the wood dust?

[@sevenismy]

How about drilling some small holes in places with buildup the small holes would create an air stream which would self clean the corners. Of course your would sacrifice suction but other fixes also sacrifice suction and it is faster to iterate with a small drill and hot glue (hot glue to close the holes in case it does not help)

[@nicholasthon973]

Have you tried an array of the small Dyson style cycloids?

[@croustibat682]

If your printer can do it, i suggest using PETG instead of PLA for the next parts you will make. It is much better at handling vibration stress as it has a bit of "give", and is overall a much better material in every aspect (stronger, holds higher temperature, less brittle, usually does not break / explode on failure but just bends). If you need a bit of help setting it up, send me a message.

[@aquilux-vids]

Have you considered the possibility of making use of the static charge to assist in capturing the dust? Maybe instead of the current 3rd stage you could use a large box to lower the airspeed and something like thin fins from the top of the chamber for the dust to cling to before falling down in clumps?

[@CapturingDust]

I did have considered that and did some research on the topic. My conclusion was that the voltage needed for an high efficiency output would be very high voltage and not my cup of tea 😅.

[@GlueTubber]

for smaller particles, look into static electricity micro particle filters

[@mike_jay]

Love this. Did you build your own room filter as well. Can you share some details about that as well please.

[@egoimaufyoutube5113]

Love the content

[@tdplayert]

Dat Calvé pindakaas glas even 30 seconden onder de warme kraan houden en schrobben met een beetje handzeep en in 30 sec is het glas mooi schoon, etiket restanten opgelost :)

[@warrenbrown8670]

For the static, maybe one of the ESD rated filaments would work. Not sure if simple carbon fiber types would conduct it away?

[@svenpeter5942]

As you showed already in a pretty efective manner the dust inflamability, please take in account electrostatic charges with your dust passing over plastic. Do yourself the favour and add some ground wires. or meshes. with some printers you can include metal containing plastics. Thank you for the detailed tests and exposition of ypur improvements. That Is something I had been looking for since the WW2 Zündapp and BMW cyclone air filters for motorcycles.

[@JohnSmith-pn2vl]

amazing!

[@darthjeder]

From what i have learned about static charge: it accumulates at the least conductive parts (glass and plastic). I wonder if using conductive filament (and connecting the parts to ground) is a good option.

[@kstano83]

This is amazing. Can the system be scaled down to various pipe diameters by any chance?

[@bartureel7259]

There are antistatic PETG filaments on the market from which you can print your parts.

[@WhiteSwordInterieur]

I love the heavy dutch accent haha

[@thomasvnl]

2:56 I would have printed the new cover so that it would fit the "normal" opening up-side down. They you would just need to rotate the part 180 degrees to switch between open and close, without the extra action of removing opening, putting cover on, putting normal part onto cover. Also, the sticky effect at 6:10 is possibly static charge. You could try to remove the static in a few places by placing like aluminium tape in a few areas hooked up via wires to an earth ground (the earth pin on a schuko wall outlet here in EU, just like the one you have beneath your dust collector) and see if that makes a difference. A quick anecdotal reference I found for this was: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKWwgXyHpKh0jtk although this guy is doing it without removing the potential difference to earth and by allowing the dust particles static to transfer via metal screws inside the conduit.

[@jamescollard9724]

Ruud, fantastic project, methodology, and approach. Thank you for sharing. Is your HEPA air filter also a DIY creation? Do you have plans for it too?

[@CapturingDust]

Yes it’s a DIY project from three years ago. And no, no plans or videos, yet. Only the interest into it is something that I am willing to provide some more detail on it and the plans are in the making. 😅

[@jamescollard9724]

@@CapturingDust I am really looking forward to seeing more details and the plans when you are ready to share them

[@taylorb3256]

I’m really interested as well!

[@zdog90210]

I never even thought about the static forces on the dust particles until the end of the video now I'm wondering what would happen if you negated those static charges if the dust would act differently?

[@d.k.1394]

Lovely video

[@sevenismy]

How about a screen filter which rotates and brushes of the buildup into the bin, this could reduce the size dramatic for the cost of some mechanics. Now you need a fairy strong/loud blower since all the centrifugal action cost some air resistance. A self cleaning mesh filter would be quite and it would not parasitic use the airflow for the action.

[@ianloy1854]

A fine mesh filter is highly restrictive. The reason is that the air at a surface is basically stationary and the air speed increases as you move away from it. with a mesh filter there is LOTS of surface area and the distance from one surface to another isn't very far. Also this is on top the amount of room the wire takes up - quite often between 30 % 50% of the total surface.

[@ph08nyx]

Why are you using an axial swirl instead of a traditional cyclone? In a cyclone, as the flow approaches the axis, the rotation speed increases. Because of this, the centrifugal force that throws off dust particles also increases. In an axial swirl, the rotation speed does not depend on the distance from its axis, so the separation efficiency is much lower. A properly designed single-stage cyclone should give the same efficiency as your three stages. But at the same time, it will be much shorter and much easier to manufacture.

[@CapturingDust]

Good point. It might be good to give you a little more context about the space I have available in the workshop; My planer and thicknesser is located in a workshop that I share. It is 18 square meters and almost all the floor space is occupied with machines or workbenches and we only have some space overhead to make something for the dust collector. We do not have any height available because of cabinets and other stuff. And with this setup, when the bins are removed, we can still walk underneath the separator part. I also ordered a Super Dust Deputy 4/5 inch Cyclone just for comparison tests. I had to wait 2.5 months for it to arrive in the Netherlands, but I will soon carry out comparison tests to see how the efficiency compares with the axial separator.

[@miscbits6399]

OK,something utterly "out there" - an electrostatic collector addition to the third stage (it will only work on extreme fines) take your 0.5mm mesh, fit it across the mouth of the 3rd stage and negatively charge it using an ioniser module, with a positive ring around/in front of the collection ring

[@bakudans4851]

Edit: my point is mentioned in the video, ups. Something I remembered just now, and wanted to tell you: When testing wood burning central heating systems for dust, it was discovered that the "old" ones don't produce fine particles, because there was so many bigger particles for them to stick to. This lead to that some big industrial burners have extra long exhaust pipes in front of the filter so it first cools down, and the particles get bigger so it is more efficient. So maybe don't separate your dusts for the test? Because maybe it will behave differently than if it is only fine or only big particles? Do you get my point? Arg I hate talking about something where I don't find the right words in English.

[@CapturingDust]

No I totally understand! That is what I wanted to addressed in the video (with less words) because of the mixture performed really well with efficiency above 99,6 to 99,88%. And the separate dust sizes in that mixture alone did not match the overall performance. It’s clustering of the smaller particles to the larger particles and they get separated out in the first stage that will lift the performance. Only I would like to have a solution for the bandsaw as well that creates more of the fine dust particles with absence of larger pieces to stick to. (Hope you understand😅)

[@bakudans4851]

@CapturingDust ok didn't remember that part. If it is in it is great.

[@CapturingDust]

No, I don’t make it clear enough in the video. It was clear in my head 😅. But a good point to explain better in a next video 👍

[@guitarchitectural]

Would love to see how this compares to a 4" Oneida cyclone!

[@CapturingDust]

Me, too! I ordered one and it has arrived so it will definitely be tested!

[@snowinokinawa]

Such a fun journey you’re taking us on here Rune (sorry if I misspelled your name). I’m just curious, can these centrifugal dust separators be mounted in different orientations… for example if you tilted the unit 90° and wall mounted it? Or if you tilted it 90° and then rotated it 90° making it an upright unit… dust travelling UP or DOWN through the separator? I imagine you will tell me this is impossible to get a decent result with… I’m very curious nonetheless the less. Keep up the sensational work! Nickolas

[@CapturingDust]

Hi Nickolas! Thanks for sharing your thoughts and compliment! By the way, it's Ruud 😅. And you can mount these types of separators in a different orientation, as long as the dust exhaust ports are adjusted accordingly. I like to try something in a next video.

[@Robinlarsson83]

I wonder how well these concepts would work for metal dust from grinding and sanding?

[@eddyerkelens]

So, you klinkt as a Nederlander 👍

[@1DwtEaUn]

large enough honeycomb in inlet straight tube to make the air more laminar but not catch the chips?

[@samrix5793]

Really interesting are there any other changes you'll look to make?

[@CapturingDust]

The first thing I will focus on is integrating the vacuüm motors into the design. I just don't have a clear idea of ​​how that will ultimately turn out.

[@bakudans4851]

I like your videos because I like problem solving, but now I need your help. Is there a plan or video out there for your "air cleaner"? I need one like that to clean up the dust from my heating source, wood pellets. And at the moment it just dumps it into my storage room.

[@CapturingDust]

More than in the video is not available. In my perspective the worldwide usecase is limited because of the use of the filters I used from the AIRBO Aircleaner AC2. Those are available in the EU and very expensive to buy overseas I would guess. Don’t know where you live. I can make plans for it and a video if it’s something that would help. Maybe this is also something that would be a solution for you: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eX6Qo4NmnM-AhMk

[@bakudans4851]

@CapturingDust I live in EU/Austria, that is why I asked you, because your outlet puts you somewhere near Germany, but your accent does not fit German. If more people are interested in that air cleaner than yes make a video. I look if the filters that you listed here are enough for me to get going. Thanks

[@CapturingDust]

Close! I am from Holland. AIRBO is a Dutch company I believe. I have some ideas for a video about the build of it. So I will work on that!

[@anderssrheim1404]

Great setup! It's good that you have several versions for different tubing specs, but you still only have a few to choose from. Any thoughts on making the design/cad paramtric to work with any size tubing out there?

[@CapturingDust]

Yes, the goal is to get it parametrically into Fusion. Just for that, I first want to complete the design and integrate the vacuüm motors.

[@ChadTolkien]

​@@CapturingDustI might suggest that most woodworking shops already have an extractor they are looking to adapt. Adding custom motors is moving this away from the DIY space imo.

[@anderssrheim1404]

​@@ChadTolkienAgreed. I think most people with a 3D printer and an existing dust collection system (however basic) wants to add this to complement the system. And then if this was parametric you could have one single with a 4 icnh pipe for a regular shop vac or a double with 6 inch if you are well endowed with a big blower.

[@anderssrheim1404]

I'm sure there a naughty innuendo in there somewhere.