E3D’s end-all extruder: The Hemera! (Full Review / “formerly known as Hermes”)

[@ajc4477]

The BMG was always an insane price anyway, I was going to purchase one a few weeks back but the assembled direct drive unit for the CR-10 was €280 plus another €21 for postage. They've priced themselves out of the market as far as I'm concerned. I received my Hermes on Friday (original branding still) and I love it, it's the best extruder I've used in four years of printing.

[@rfc1795]

Was it an easy fit on the CR-10? What improvements have you seen? I'm still running the stock extruder with ABL. Guessing I'd probably have to solution a side mount of sorts if getting one of these?

[@ajc4477]

@@rfc1795 I put mine on an S5 using 3DMN's stls from MyMiniFactory. It's a pretty easy install if you know your way around a Creality machine. There's a tiny bit of soldering involved but that's the worst of it.

[@jessejamesb]

OK tom, you get the bell. I've never done this before but you're the best, all substancial content, not just content for the sake of content.

[@vladimirseven777]

Hey you! Yes, you. You watching my videos but not subscribed yet!

[@mocotonio]

Don't feel bad for Bondtech. Things will only get better and cheaper if there's actual competition between manufacturers

[@YaFunklord]

Bondtech could've done this, but didn't. I don't feel bad for a company that overcharges for plastic boxes with a couple of cheap gears in them.

[@scotthancock8225]

@@YaFunklord You have no idea what your talking about. Bondtech is not overpriced. Bondtech cases are SLS printed in Nylon. Go ahead Engineer, Prototype, Test and then manufacture a product using SLS printed Nylon, even in the tens of thousands see what your production costs are. Try running any of the Bondtech Chinese knock offs at the same speeds as a genuine Bondtech, guess what you can't cause they cant reproduce the filament path with injection molding that Bondtech does with SLS manufacturing.

[@YaFunklord]

Wow, some people will go to any length to justify their purchases. For that price I'd expect them to be made of metal components or at the very least be injection molded. But it still doesn't change the fact that they are just set of cheap gears in a box for the same price as others can produce a complete 3d printer for.

[@scotthancock8225]

@@YaFunklord Your still failing to recognize that Bondtech case CANNOT be injection molded, hence the SLS nylon construction. To each there own was just trying to show you its not just a box with gears

[@YaFunklord]

@@scotthancock8225 That's just bs. There's no such thing as "can be 3d-printed but not injection molded". It's called lazy/bad design. Fused injection molds are still stronger. And besides, cast or machined metal parts would've been the expected. Not any kind of plastics.

[@dekutree64]

It would be interesting to make a setup where you have one big frame-mounted stepper to handle the mass of the filament roll, and one small pancake stepper to apply pressure at the printhead. As long as they move in sync and have a bit of filament slack between them, the direct extruder should be totally isolated from the spool, which I think would be a big help.

[@Psychlist1972]

All KZbinrs ask you to ring the bell. I never ring the bell because I always go and check out my subscriptions page when I'm looking to watch something. I can't be the only person who does this. I share this only so you know that not ringing the bell is by no means an indicator of lack of interest in your channel, just a lack of interest in yet more push notifications.

[@Robert-xn6xs]

Glad to see you're positive about the new Hemera. I took the risk and ordered one early for my Artillery X1 V3. I'm printing the adapters now.

[@zachofalltrades1111]

so how is it treating you? I got my sidewinder x1 about a week ago and its printing pretty flawless only date ive done so far is the micro swiss harden plated stainless nozzle and just order the micro swiss heat break.

[@ItsMeMattCarter]

@@zachofalltrades1111 I just got mine the other day and I love it so much I am selling my cr10 lol. Something else I recommend is something that Joel the 3d printing nerd pointed it that I ending up doing and that's replace the tubing in the hot end with capricorn tubing.

[@MaxQ10001]

Can I ask why you want to change extruder and hot end on the X1? Imho it has among the best on the market. The CR10s, Enders and Wanhaos I can understand why need an upgrade, but not the X1 🤔

[@chezcotton]

How was it? I’m thinking of getting this for my swx1 and switching to klipper. Were you happy with your upgrade? Do you think it’s worth the money still?

[@wordedon]

Really interesting to learn about the improvements over the Titan aero design. Close ups of the diecasting and drive gear components moving was awesome too. Geat information on how Hermera is a combination of extruder, motor, heatsink, and hotend all incorporated into one assembly. Along with dual drive. Your very knowledge perspective on 3d printing makes for really helpful informative vidoes. In this one especially, you pointed out how great & practical it is to actually have this all-in-one component to use on a printer setup. Something I didn't fully consider and it makes me want one even more Fantastic review Tom! Ps. The bmg has met it's match and then some for sure hahaha!

[@BLBlackDragon]

Interesting to see a competitor to the BMG, that isn't a clone of it. Then again, E3D has been innovating design ideas for a while. Let the extruder wars begin.

[@vaibhavagarwal4637]

its gonna be war full of innovation. Watch bmg just go bowden, and e3d clamp onto direct drive :)

[@JSunBurns]

Can't get E3D to sell me replacement gears/bearings/drive components. I need to keep spare parts on hand to prevent downtime in case of failure. They sell everything else, just not the parts that are prone to wear and tear.

[@chloemcholoe3280]

I really really wish you did some analysis and tests. also the price only makes sense when you're building an entirely new printer. otherwise most of us already have the motor + v6 and change the extruder or one part at a time.

[@041e71]

you can get the bowden extruder which is a bit cheaper. but running it in a bowden configuration kind of defeats its purpose imho

[@kazolar]

I am forced to buy a block here -- which I don't want. I have e3d's own copper blocks, and nozzlex already...so please if there was an option for just the hemera, special stepper, fan, and heatbreak, that's where that combination needs to end.

[@chloemcholoe3280]

@@kazolar there's the bowden version. manually add the heatbreak

[@kylek29]

@@kazolar You can buy the parts separately. It probably wouldn't save you too much, but it can be done.

[@kylek29]

Re: Tests / Analysis Agree, I'd love to see this done to a printer like an Ender 3 in an A/B test where A is the traditional bowden (possibly with a V6, so variables are reduced) and B is the Hermera .. curious what the extra mass does to maximum print speeds.

[@alexsemine1]

Proprietary motor? No pancake version? expensive parts? *chinese guys: "Hold my tea"

[@drobertson123]

And the Hemera cracks and breaks like a cheap die-cast toy. I was hopeful, now I am just disappointed.

[@warwolf6862]

*chinese guys*: "Hold my dog meat"

[@Pascal_Robert--Rc_Creations]

You guys had bad reviews? what's going on?

[@ChristopherJones16]

Chinese guys: hold my covid-19.

[@squirrelrobotics]

@@drobertson123 That problem has been fixed before retail units were made, please watch the entire video before commenting.

[@thenerdlabofficial]

Fantastic review Tom! I just installed mine on my Ender 3 and dialed the settings in. The quality is amazing and it looks like I'll be ordering two more for my other machines.

[@woodwaker1]

How are you feeding filament in? What kind of mount/holder?

[@thenerdlabofficial]

@@woodwaker1 I'm using the Hemera in Direct Drive, not Bowden. Joe Casha (3DMakerNoob/3DMN) designed a nice mount for the Ender 3. He posted a video on his channel about it and posted the files on MyMiniFactory. I'm using a different fan duct that I found on thingiverse, and as far as loading in filament, it's going straight from the spool holder at the top of the frame straight down into the PTFE tube and directly through the extruder.

[@woodwaker1]

@@thenerdlabofficial Thanks, I ordered the direct drive also, I have printed Joe's backplate to see what it looks like and watched his video for about the 10th time. I think it is finally sinking in how this will all work together. I also need the EZABL mount and have 4020 fans on order. Looks like it will bbe a great mod.

[@barenekid9695]

@@thenerdlabofficial More than a sure bet that it was the changeover to DDrive that gave result. Bowdens are simply a foolish marketing affectation

[@willlong4258]

I think you're the guy who convinced me to get the Hemera. For my CR-10S Pro V2, it fixed three things: 1. Print flexibles fast, 2. Print Nylon/PC, 3. Have literally no stringing.

[@Bostonbowser]

The Hemera definitely looks like a good bit of kit overall. It has its place in the market for sure and hopefully we see more kits like it in the future. The only issue i see with it is that its not new user friendly. The bondtech is no walk in the park either when it comes to a direct drive conversion, but having to flash new firmware to accommodate the new thermistor and heater cartridge as well as any bed leveling probe position changes might turn some people off. That being said, this is hardly a "new user" upgrade, but I have definitely seen people who buy a thousand upgrades for their machine all at once and then get disappointed when things dont work. The bondtech on the other hand is compatible with a few existing bowden setups to provide an increase in performance in the interim of a direct drive conversion or permanently. You dont have to make any firmware changes with it if youre not comfortable or its not an option, just swap two wires on the stepper header and add M92 to your starting gcode. Im also not too fond of the custom stepper housing with tiny gear on the shaft as this basically throws user serviceability out the window in the event of failure. My two cents aside, I tapped the bell and I'm already subscribed. Thank you for another great video and all of your contributions to the community.

[@justindelpero]

I don't think Users that don't know how to flash firmware would be purchasing any hotend/extruder parts... It's pretty much unavoidable outside of a Prusa style eco system...

[@Bostonbowser]

@@justindelpero you are correct. I acknowledged that briefly, see "this is hardly a new-user upgrade." Marketing 3D printing hardware under the impression that inexperienced users wont purchase the product in question is a bit of an oversight and is the only reason I mentioned it at all. If you frequent any 3DP Facebook groups you see new users purchasing hotend/exteuder parts all the time.

[@Deneteus]

You can put in ESTEPS in your start GCODE. If you re-use your original stepper that is it. The only time that you may change firmware directions is if you are not wanting to swap wires around.

[@joshcarter-com]

I wanted to upgrade my LulzBot Taz 6 with a good 1.75mm extruder, and the Hemera fit the bill perfectly. As you say, E3D did a great job getting build guides and mounting parts out there. I followed the Taz 6 guide and it went together quickly with very few problems, and I'm now happily printing away with the Hemera. Quality of the printed parts is amazing; easily as good as my Prusa Mk3s. At $119 (plus a couple fans) I consider it a bargain for breathing new life into my Taz, plus I can now share filament between that and my Prusa.

[@E3DOnline]

This is awesome to hear Josh! Happy printing, E3D

[@HoffmanEngineering]

Interesting combination. I love the idea of dual drive, but just like you said, I don't remember the last time any of my printers chewed up filament. The thinner profile of the threads in the heat break seems like a good thermal improvement. Like with the Slice Engineering hotend, thinner metal means less thermal creep from the heater. Great review, thanks Tom!

[@ianide2480]

I got an Aero at the start of the year(ish) and it has been doing awesome. The hemera wont make my prints better than they are now, it's not lighter, the aero never skips, and I certainly wont save money buying something new. My printer is self built so I would even have to design a new mount. This is just more work all the way around. If I was making something new I might consider it just for the cost savings of having everything in one package. Glad to hear your thoughts on it.

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

Yeah, I agree. If you already have the aero, there is no need unless you need the air blown away from the part. Buying another stepper motor just sounds a tad excessive too. I hope they can make this as an upgrade kit, though i would be hard pressed to recreate the shortened shaft and pressed drive gear on one of my steppers

[@ianide2480]

@@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany If I was truly worried about extra air hitting my parts, I would grab up some thin alu flashing from my toolbox (I know there's a few scraps in there). A very small piece is all that would be needed to block the air from going that direction and it would be under the heatsink, so effectively invisible and weight next to nothing. No need to get fancy hehe

[@alin116]

@@ianide2480 the air hitting your parts is a minor thing. The major features of this are dual drive and very short filament path, which helps a lot with flexibles and with speed.

[@3dchanh]

I literally got my BMG V6 Moon's combo about 3 weeks before these were available for purchase. I wanted the best extruder setup for my printer. I knew about the "Hermes" at the time, but it seemed like they kept delaying releasing it. Now it's hard for me to switch because my setup works fine. I can't really recommend the BMG anymore since E3D's version is so cheap and you don't have to peice a kit together. A true turnkey dual geared extruder.

[@Arek_R.]

Typical buyer's remorse.

[@3dchanh]

@@Arek_R. Yes haha but not really any remorse. I have beautiful prints thanks to this setup. Just wasn't cheap as the Hemera.

[@WhiteWolfos]

Same, I just got mine recently but had considered the hemera. Went with e3d Titan hot end and a good quality bmg clone. People rave about the nimble so I'll look into both of those for my next setup.

[@gedr7664]

Thanks for the vid Thomas, really amazing how mature the technology around hobby 3d printers is getting :)

[@ChannelJanis]

Hi, Tom! I just have finished setting up Her.. Hemera. Few things I think can be improved: * M3 thread in heatsink. Many will replace stick fan with Noctua or something else and stock screws will be too short * An extra bag on M3 bolts in different lengths in 2mm increments to fit accessories to Hemera. Those accessories threads are annoyingly short. * Lack of printable accessories. I had to make my own dual fan duct for 40x20 Noctua fans (search thingiverse) * Lack of motor settings. I have no clue what current value should I use. But I like Herm.. Hemera. Need to test it out now.

[@benw834]

Thomas, you are a legend when it comes to 3D printing. You are my goto person on the internet, for EVERYTHING 3D. You are very thorough, concise, clear with your speech, you have excellent production quality and very interesting topics, making your videos easy to watch. You helped get me up and running just over 12 months ago with this hobby and my new Prusa I3 Mk3s. I hope you are still producing more of these videos for years to come. Thank you from Australia. :-)

[@oleurgast730]

Actually the chineese already made kind of "Dual Drive BMG Aero" before (nearly one year ago). The airflow concept of the hemera is better, also the heatbreak going up to the gears. But on the positive side, you reuse heatbreak, nozzle, hotblock and pencake stepper, so much less money if you want to upgrade an existing system (f.e. if you have already have a copper heatblock, an mepa heatbreak, a nozzleX, an orginal Bondtech BMG). I hope e3d will sell the hemera as an upgrade kit without heatblock, thermistor, heater cadrige and nozzle. Anything downside the heatbreak is compatible to v6 anyway. If you have nozzleX or Ruby Nozzle - why being forced to get the standard e3d nozzle and pay for it? If you already have a 24V heater cadrige - why paying a second time?

[@lavachemist]

Those are all cheap parts that it is nice to have extras of anyway. I don't see any benefit for E3D to create another sku for that.

[@oleurgast730]

@@lavachemist original e3d heatblock with nozzle, heater and thermistor more than 35 € I wouldn't call "cheap" for putting them in a box just as a spare; esp. if the equipment you have already are NozzleX, Cooper heatblock and a thermistor you already have set correctly in Marlin and works well (would not use an other type of thermistor as a "spare" as I prefer a simple replacement in case a wire breaks, to get the printer working again fast, not researching what type I have to set in Marlin for the replacement and reflashing the firmware...)

[@kylek29]

I was hoping for an upgrade path from a V6 and priced out the individual parts, I think you save ~ $30-$40 if you buy the parts individually. So it might just be better to sell the V6 second hand and go with an all new kit. I don't see why the authorized retailers couldn't do a special bundle though using those parts.

[@JasperJanssen]

Ole Urgast they retail for that much. They don’t cost e3d more than 10 bucks or so to include.

[@archeebookingagent1909]

I think about a year ago you went to their new place and Sanjay talked about the all in one cheaper solutions.. die cast parts etc.. but I like this one even though it's all in one and proprietary you know it works.. seeing their worth ethic and QC with Similarity to Josef's factory.. I think that's huge advantage.. there is market for super cheap, there is market for quality well priced product and there is a market for super high end products made from rare materials to create super precised parts.. similar to TItan CNC machine shops.. .. Thanks Tom.. good work as always..

[@DaHaiZhu]

0:39 - E3D's documentation on the heatbreak says '... M6 thread to maintain compatibility with the E3D ecosystem. ' So i really think it will work with any M6 threaded heater block, not just the one it comes with.

[@E3DOnline]

you're right. It can be used with V6, Volcano and SuperVolcano

[@Runoratsu]

Btw: That bell setting doesn't even do much anymore, people report getting no new notifications for channels they've enabled it on for weeks. But looking on your subscription page instead just "Home" on youtube gives an overview over all your subscribed channels, that's-as of yet-still reliable. You won't miss new videos there.

[@VolksTrieb]

Well Tom. Blowing air up away from the bed in that kind of a small space you actually creat a low pressure zone under the hotend which kinda doesnt help. the only way to get very little airflow around the print would be a long hose from and away from the cooling finns.

[@jasonwalker6825]

For comparison, I weighed my Titan Aero with slim motor at 297g (includes the heatsink fan, heatbreak, heater block and nozzle with sock. Not including mount).

[@streaky81]

When your first complaint is "it blows air in my face if I stick my face right in front of it" then the rest of the review becomes moot and it might be quite good. Might see if I can get one of these on my mk3s whilst I'm putting my new rails on it..

[@oleurgast730]

If you have an MMU2s on your mk3s, you can get problems with the Hemera. e3d made a special version for Prusa of their full metal heatbreak to form the tip of the filament while unloading. The Hemera has a different heatbreak, so you might not get the perfect tip you need for automatic filament change.

[@norro21]

It also makes you wonder why he didn't mount it the other way round

[@gregoryp203]

thank you for this, but what I want to know is what do we get out of the hemera? Will we be able to print faster with it? Will there be less chances of stringing or bobbing? Will linear advance work better with it since there is less spring between the drive and the nozzle? I want it to be an improvement but I don't see how has any improvement other than for flexible filament. Can we see a side by side benchy?

[@AlanBWarrick]

Thomas I picked one up based on your first video.... I can't wait to get it, and I've never bought something so fast based on anyone's video of a new product.

[@WhereNerdyisCool]

I’m hoping a CR-10 upgrade mount / duct comes out soon. I have a few BMG / v6 setups and while I feel bad E3D is going to eat their lunch...glad to see continued innovation and lower costs

[@E3DOnline]

Hey, we actually already have an upgrade mount for the CR10 available here - e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/Hemera+Creality+Ender+3+Upgrade./107?lang=en. It's the same as the Ender 3, we'll get the title amended to avoid confusion. Thanks, E3D

[@Side85Winder]

There are many 3d printed geared extruder options around and one thing that E3d never in my mind got right from the original gregs wade extruder was the harring bone gears. I personaly developed my own design using a GT2 belt and pulleys to drive the filament on my choice of drive gear either hobbed or pinion. Mechanicaly pinion gears have a "dead" space of play in them where their is movement but no output in the transmision harring bone gears fixed this problem and so does my belt driven setup. There is nothing worse than E3D changing their sizing of their threads just for the sake of doing so the difference would be so minimum IMO any way.

[@wordreet]

I'm having an Ender 3 delivered this week, and will probably add a direct drive extruder as soon as I can. I messed around with a Tevo Tarantula a year ago and have printed nothing since.

[@ensoniq2k]

I'm still waiting for the Prusa XXL, I would love to see it equipped with a pancake Hemera. E3D once again upped their game another step.

[@rmatysiak76]

you know any details for this print ?

[@kbrinker54]

I'd rather see a mosquito or slice engineering copperhead nozzle on it.

[@rheller_82]

We'll Prusa does work with e3d. I asked Prusa recently about about the their XL printer it seems like it's still far off. So maybe keep suggesting and maybe e3d can do a custom version for them. I mean they already do a Prusa heatbreak.

[@ensoniq2k]

@@rmatysiak76 not more than is already out there. They're aiming for a 400x400 mm coreXY system

[@lukeD8099]

@@kbrinker54 please explain your reasoning. Everywhere I've seen the reviewers say it's great but not much of a noticable difference in quality. Just curious.

[@geekoid183]

A super nice video would be a detailed comparison of the specs of the most popular extruders and hotend on the market. How much force they can apply to the filament, with which maximum speed. How much volume of plastic can flowed into a nozzle before it can't keep up... It takes time and money for sure, but what a great resource with all nice graphics, csv and everything !

[@JasonDrennen]

I just switch to bond Tech from the e3d Titan extruder and yeah bondtech stole the show. I'm running it on a Bowden system and can push flexibles all day. One day I might give this a try but for right now it's going to be hard to beat these bontech's I mean look E3d even took their design. It was a brilliant design that works.

[@masonchudleigh7990]

Dope intro Tom! Love the content, keep up the good work :)

[@rowlandstraylight]

The Hemera is looking incredibly good value when alternatives might be a mosquito and a bondtech extruder. But there's a huge ecosystem around bondtech-like extruders and V6 compatible hotends with really good cooling. I'm not sure I've seen anything as good for the Hemera?

[@chloemcholoe3280]

is the titan weight with a pancake? I want a comparison to a titan aero with a pancake! my BMG + V6 + Pancake is like 240g so 120g lighter

[@Shoopadawhoopa]

Titan Aero+Volcano roughly weights 100g, Pancake 120g, Fan (Noctua 4010) 17g. So i ended up with 240g for the extruder including hotend+fan.

[@RomanoPRODUCTION]

Necessary comment to state that Tom is still awesome :)

[@Ben2Live1]

Thank you for your detailed explanation and supporting images. 👌

[@TheNamelessOne12357]

Definitely needs a water-cooled version for a heated chambers, which includes cooling for the steper and the extruder. Also, there is a modified BMG from chinese company TriangleLabs, which is made of aluminium and combines the extruder and the heatsink the same way. And they also sell water-cooled version.

[@vaibhavagarwal4637]

Tom, first of all, I'm a huge fan. But like for some reason, you ot teaching tech, or makers muse, or 3d printing nerd or anyone else has the Tevo Nereus. No one but ruiraptor has a nereus as far as I know. It is a really cool, unique tevo. Let me say why Its pretty good. a 320 by 320 by 400 mm frame, 24v, filament run-out (SO loud), touchscreen full color, and wifi (doesn't really work well). It supports 2 extruders on the pro, but that hasn't been released. I have one and I love printing on it. the area of the bed is bigger than a cr 10, and it can be found for 390 if you look carefully or at the normal ~430

[@SciCool]

Very nice review, loved the energetic intro :) I'm planning to build a compact crossed gantry printer and I believe I found the extruder I will use :)

[@adamvanantwerp5659]

I like this intro b roll with the purple lighting and the roll transitions between shots :thumbsup:

[@Kezat]

Looks like a beautiful all in one extruder, I plan to get one at some point, perhaps after we get a pancake motor. As a geared extruder it strikes me as a big miss to not have the smaller motor as default. Hopefully that will get resolved soon.

[@ericthecyclist]

So, in short, it may offer minor improvements, but doesn't solve one of the real problems we all run into; unprotected wires in the hot-end that can be torn off when something goes wrong and we have a nasty blob around the hotend to remove.

[@gg-gn3re]

@@JorgTheElder Yea that'd be cool. Most of them are all metal you can run the negative power through the frame itself and just have 1 wire connected to the heater coil or something. That'd save space

[@kazolar]

IMO Hemera is limiting for various configurations. Specifically this is forcing an air cooler, so no water cooling with a hemera. I have metal plates which go between the motor and the extruder, I think something can be adapted to work in that configuration, but that's not the default the setup. Also with a V6 I have a precision piezo sensor right below either the Titan or the BMG, because it fits the standard groove mount, so yes I'm adding 25mm to my filament path, but it's full constrained in the piezo sensor adapter module. So this setup completely eliminates compatibility with a piezo sensor. This is a nice setup, but way too much lock in to the e3d everything. Now we're looking at a proprietary e3d stepper...that is overkill IMO.

[@GregAtlas]

If the Hemera came out a couple months earlier I probably would have bought it. Instead I got the Zesty Nimble. I'm happy with my Nimble, but it does take a lot more reconfiguring to get it to work properly. Especially on an 8 bit board.

[@machinerin151]

I'd love to see longer version of the throat for the Anet A6 gang, then this would just be a drop-in upgrade for an already great smooth X carriage this printer has. It looks to be made almost as a drop-in upgrade for Anet extruders!

[@MrRenoman2011]

Thank so much for all your videos. I use allot of your info in my decisions so thanks again.

[@andreascyprus2]

Umm no printing examples?

[@MadeWithLayers]

Prints look fine - what exactly would you be looking for that isn't a result of the underlying motion platform?

[@andreascyprus2]

Thomas Sanladerer maybe max speeds for flexibles and show couple of example prints?

[@robschwiebert8633]

@@MadeWithLayers extrusion consistency. The big selling point of this platform is short filament path, which should mean more even flow when going from infill (let's say 200mm/s) to perimeters (anywhere from 60 to 15mm/s). If you look at the most perfect prints under the right lighting, you'll see the bulges associated with this. I bought the hemera under my personal hunch that it'll improve this since you are greatly reducing the "spring factor" of the filament. Still haven't received mine and I'm sad to see that no one has touched on this aspect yet.

[@Trivimania]

Print quality with a 0.15mm nozzle would be a very good test for this one. The test to get the ultimate resolution for fdm

[@TheMastaRob]

@@MadeWithLayers Direct drive, potential for moire? I also would really have liked to see some example prints, up close!

[@eclsnowman]

I wonder what the wear will be like on the stainless gear train. I'm sure they went with a grade that they could harden and it'll be fine because the forces are low, but you normally don't see stainless gears in industrial gear trains for a reason. In wash down required applications where stainless steel gears are often used, they normally require some form of lubrication to avoid work hardening and flaking.

[@foxabilo]

I am going to have to get one, TPU @100mm/s has interesting possibilities. Phone Cases, Shoe insoles, etc, etc.

[@tomcypher3864]

I recently have modded my ultimaker clone with a direct drive titan aero heatsink for $7+$11+$7 (complete hotend with pancake nema17 and silicon sock even;) of course, not original, but anyway. Hope it performs kool!

[@robinpolderdijk8570]

Could you do a comparison of part cooling fans for the hemera ? there are a lot of designs out there.

[@certified-forklifter]

wow awesome video. Loving the new Hemera! What do you think about part cooling with pressured air (with a external pump and a tube)?!

[@lostname605]

I would love to see a video on the topic!

[@garybarbourii8274]

I've been tossing the idea around

[@JeffDM]

BMG is $80 other places I've bought, such as Printed Solid or Filastruder. Matterhackers tends to charge more for regular catalog items. I don't know if MH will stick with that price after the original introduction blitz. It doesn't help a lot. Maybe BMG is competitive when you factor in a bowden. Anyways, I suggest looking around, there's usually reputable sellers that sell at noticeably lower price. MH never comes out on top in my shopping.

[@jsquirre]

Printrbot had the dual drive extruder called the gearhead a year before your first video over the original bondtech.

[@GoatZilla]

Blows the exhaust right onto a possible side mounted hall effect sensor

[@Duraltia]

Heh... @11:11 Reminds me of my Voron 2.4 Kit purchase from FormBot when I asked them if they could exclude the V6 that would have shipped with it and they did - Refunding me ( checks PayPal eMail again ) a whopping USD 6.- for it and I was like: _"Guess that wasn't an original one, eh?"_ 🤔

[@haley8004]

Awesome video but what I want to know is how it compares to mosquito, plus, say, BMG. Also, I'd argue the biggest drawback is weight.

[@lukie80de]

Do such compact extruders work well inside an enclosed printer? Air temperature is much higher and cooling of the throat might not be sufficient.

[@ww-pw6di]

If the enclosure temps are high enough for it to negatively affect the cooling of the throat then you're going to have a lot of other problems within that enclosure anyway.

[@Audio_Simon]

I'd like to know this! Can the fancy heatsink be replaced with a water block, or is it part of the extruder?

[@Runoratsu]

@@Audio_Simon It's part of the extruder assembly. The whole thing is mainly one diecast heatsink/extruder part, one motor with the other part of the extruder built into it, and the attached minor stuff like the heat break, idler arm, fan, screws, etc.

[@Audio_Simon]

@@Runoratsu Then I wonder if the heatsink could be encased and made as a water block.

[@Runoratsu]

Simon A Maaaaybe, but I don’t think it would be worth the hassle. E3d might even decide to do an alternative part that works with the rest of the components but is optimised for water cooling out of the box, after all they do have a water cooled extruder already. I’d definitely message them if I were you, if only to show them there’s interest. But if you need something soon, you’ll probably be better off with something built with water cooling in mind.

[@floatingextruder3365]

hi Tom love your videos ,, there is a new way to feed the hotend , (floating extruder ) just hovers above the hotend at all times ,no weight added to hotend very simple setup and very fast

[@Filagram]

Is this still the best you can recommend? Or which one do you use in favorite? Im having a CR10 which performs perfect, but im about to maybe upgrade to direct drive system, because i print lots of TPU aswell.

[@tylabrassey971]

Awesome job Tom keep up the amazing content 💯

[@RentableSocks]

I think we'll end up finding that the old style of heatbreak is very slightly superior, thermally. Increased contact area with the threads and the heatsink closer to the heat block is better than overall increased contact area but stretched over a much longer distance. Think about how far the energy has to travel in order to escape the heatbreak. The heat isn't coming from the inside, it's coming from below (and only very slightly on the inside because that's where the necked down portion connects). The little flange may help some if it seats fully as well, but it's pretty thin and probably doesn't conduct much heat. Really it would take two units (to eliminate the heatsink as a variable) and one would have to be modified to accept the old style v6 heatbreak. This would be an interesting test to do, especially since you have two units. Would probably have to make room for some teflon tube to travel up and meet the gears as well.

[@pippaengroda]

there is thermal paste included to put on the threads of the heatbreak. i think it will perform great :)

[@RentableSocks]

@@pippaengroda no doubt it'll perform great, I just think it'll be slightly less performant as the old v6 style. Also thermal paste can go on the heatsink side of any heatbreak

[@MrCubflyer]

Thanks a lot You always have the best content.

[@_Piers_]

They should have called it "The awful delivery company threatened us hotend"

[@MadeWithLayers]

There are other companies out there that have stakes in "Hermes" branding.

[@TheDasFaust]

@@MadeWithLayers Hermes engraving is one of them, they've been around for a very long time.

[@KieranShort]

I want to see someone mount one to a Prusa i3 MK3s... or better, one with an MMU2s.

[@barenekid9695]

Why?? Their BMG with v6 Has been working well ...for some time now.

[@robcoyle5011]

thanks for this. Gonna order for sure. Do you have a good E step setting?

[@TheDasFaust]

Download the source for the Marlin Firmware from the video where he installs the Hermera on an Anet A8, it has the steps listed in it.

[@robcoyle5011]

@@TheDasFaust thanks will do!

[@keithwins]

Always great. Thanks!

[@henmich]

Got it.. the new E3D Hemeroid... Great name

[@runicevan5624]

wtf 😂

[@darkracer1252]

for anyone else wondering. you CANNOT rotate the front heatsink so you can mount the thing on the bottom of a carriage. the bearing for the idler fits into the front plate of the stepper motor. so it's not rotateable.

[@ChristopherJones16]

01:02 im new to 3d printing... why do you not need the fan anymore when you switch to bowden?

[@JAYTEEAU]

Thanks for the overview Tom. Cheers, JAYTEE

[@crazytexasgypsy]

I’m glad they fixed that gear problem! And not a ton of people are having the same exact problem you did. Not at all suspect that you gave a glowing review to a product that broke on you because e3d said they fixed it, I mean of course just take their word for it. Salty because I bought one with this review helping convince me to and it’s junk. Pretty obvious in retrospect this is more a paid advertisement than a legit review. Pretty interesting you don’t show any examples or talk about how it prints? Gear break on you right away?

[@gdblackthorn4137]

Just curious... my heated bed is 24V. I guess I will have to get out my meter to tell how much voltage I have across the Extruder? I have an Alfawise U20 One printer. I would think that I need the 24 Volt one... I am new to 3D printing and my printer also uses the Bowden style extruder. I guess it would be best just to replace the Bowden?

[@Festivejelly]

I have 2 hemera and ive been running them for over a year. 1 is in an ender 5 the other in a coreXY. They are brilliant but I cant say they are much better than a Titan Aero. They may be a bit lighter.. but I dont see a quality improvement. As such given some of the controversy id go for the Titan Aero Still at the moment. That still kicks ass.

[@viper7016]

You say it's not better, but you don't even say what you're doing with it. Flexibles? PLA only? etc. This comment helps no one if you leave it this vague.

[@unimprezzedmclastname4220]

Isn't this basically the deluxe version of the stock Anet A8 extruder? They look exactly the same, right down to the point where you can't see the filament as you're inserting it. Edit: I look to the left side of the screen, and I do indeed see that the Hemera is installed on a stock Anet A8.

[@Phil-D83]

The China all metal bmg clones with e3d blocks almost do the same thing, minus the heatsink to prevent air flow from messing with the print.

[@3DPrintedProps]

Great Vid. Does anyone know of any mounts and or instructions for this and the Formbot Raptor 2? Thanks.

[@geoper2]

Thanks for the video! I was waiting for a good explanatory good quality video with good views since the Hemera came out. Keep it up man

[@SoCal_rnr]

3d printing world: Artillery Sidewinder... We mean Evnovo Sidewinder X1 E3D Hermes... We mean E3D Hermera

[@leo-hao]

PC world: NZXT... I mean iBuyPower Alienware... I mean Dell...

[@mamuunji]

Such a nice Introsound.... :) aAh .. I wish the hemera would make sense on my modded ultimaker one bowden printer but it would be to heavy for my printhead carriage.... thanks for your great informative videos and greetings from austria

[@Arek_R.]

Just ordered it to upgrade my Ender 3. Though I'd like to see some dedicated metal bracket to mount it, I don't want it to be mounted with printed parts. It could use 4th v-slot wheel for extra rigidity as well.

[@thenerdlabofficial]

I'm sure the people on Aliexpress are working on that, haha.

[@dale_ch]

I think this was a fair unbiased review Tom, thanks 👍

[@beaugalbraith3242]

When you mention that a mirrored version may be coming, which component are you referring to and what does that mean?

[@JandCanO]

It swaps which way you mount it if it's mirrored. Think left vs. right-hand side. It is nice to dual extruder setups for symmetry.

[@tyrian869]

So how does this compare to Bowden setups? less weight being moved around, Looking to upgrade my A8

[@alex-w8p2e]

Upgrading an a8 is not worth it.

[@farkhad126]

Hey Tom! So I got 4 HEMERA upgrades for my print farm for my Ender 3's. I am unable to get some clear Sainsmart TPU printing for longer than 20 minutes before either: A) The filament stops feeding (low tension), or the filament gets crushed and is blocked by the tight tolerances of the Bowden adapter (high tension). I've gone through E3D's entire troubleshooting guide- waiting for support to get back to me. Any ideas what might be causing this issue?

[@Cryocide]

Does the motor's heat cause filament to soften when driven by TMC2130 drivers, like in the Prusa MK3S? I'm in the process of rebuilding to a BNBSX extruder to isolate the motor from the filament path due to extreme filament jam issues on long prints.

[@1234fishnet]

Regarding weight: compare the whole weight, including mounting accessories. now add the weight of the aluminium bracket of the stock Anet extruder and add the minimum weight of the plastic mount you designed for the Hemera. And? I'm sure the Hemera wins.

[@gadreem]

Thanks for a great review, which is important To me as a mechanical designer & a 3D printer.

[@BrandegeePierce]

I have a cr 10 and getting sick of a few issues. Thinking of getting a broken sidewinder and stripping it. Basically just keeping the frame. I am torn between this hot end and the slice mosquito + Bond tech. Obviously price is different. If budget were no issue, which would you do? I know you are always loot for video ideas... Maybe a slice mosquito vs a hemera or e3d v6?

[@Sustainone]

Still not available for Prussia?

[@steffen1472]

E3d said they will release it this week.

[@E3DOnline]

We're still aiming to get the Prusa upgrade guides out by the end of this week! Thanks, E3D

[@FPVREVIEWS]

Will this extruder work on a Sovol Sv-01?

[@tomschuh6301]

I received mine in the mail, was a bit disappointed when I got my hands on it and realized there was no way to manually load/advance/retract the filament.

[@joshcarter-com]

I just got my Hemera built, and thought the same thing, but it turns out you can just squeeze the idler lever and push filament through or pull it out. You don't really need to drive the gears for loading/unloading.

[@richardbennett8678]

May I ask you to make a video on adjusting the z-steps on this extruder? Pretty please.

[@techmorfic7989]

This does look like a great extruder. would love to get one of these one of these days.

[@frogmandave1]

Subscribed and belled! Nice review Tom.