Early Mustang Cooling Systems Part 6: Green Coolant Goes Bad, How & Why I Upgraded To An ELC!

Early Mustang Cooling Systems Part 6: Green Coolant Goes Bad, How & Why I Upgraded To An ELC!
In this sixth part of my cooling system video series, I wanted to discuss coolants in detail to share some very useful information that is t readily available to the average vintage Mustang or Musclecar enthusiast.
I cover the shortfalls of traditional green antifreeze, explain the difference between older and newer coolant technologies and the additives used in them, including the risks associated with using coolants that contain nitrites and 2-EHA.
I discuss the use of water as coolant, when not to and when to use it as a coolant, and the types of additives to use it with.
I go over the need for safe handling, sealed storage, and proper disposal practices for both new and used coolant.
Finally, I explain the advantages behind ELC (Extended Life Coolants) and how to choose the correct ELC to upgrade your car.
Here is a list of five ELC Coolants I have taken the time to verify are suitable for use in our vintage Mustangs and similar vehicle from the Musclecar Era:
Peak Final Charge Global 50/50 Prediluted Antifreeze and Coolant
www.peakhd.com...
Valvoline™ ZEREX™ HD Nitrite Free Extended Life Coolant (ELC)
www.valvoline....
Chevron Delo® XLC Antifreeze/Coolant
www.chevronlub...
Mobil Delvac™ Extended Life 50/50 Prediluted Coolant/Antifreeze
www.mobil.com/...
Prestone Command® Heavy Duty Nitrite Free ELC with Cor-Guard® Concentrate and 50/50 Antifreeze/Coolant
prestonecomman...
Coming Soon:
Part 7: The Relationship Between Timing, Fuel, & Temperature
This series of videos is something I’ve wanted to do for quite a while and now that I’m in the middle of rebuilding the cooling system for my 1966 Shelby GT350 Mustang, it’s the perfect opportunity for me to share my knowledge with you.
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Thanks for watching!
#shelby #ford #mustang #gt350 #shelbygt350 #mustanggt350 #shelbymustang #v8 #coolingsystem #coolant #temperature #gauge #tempgauge #1965mustang #1966mustang

[@DavidDelgadoMusic]

Thank you for this information! New subscriber for sure. Thanks

[@benjaminrogers9239]

Just found your channel and the amount of information you have is incredible!

[@TheGT350Garage]

Thanks!

[@robo2901]

I like your videos best at 1.75x speed. Great info for sure.

[@3dprintingcave778]

lol ya, he has alot of good info but talks way to slow it gets really boring, at 1.75 sounds weird at 1.5 speed it makes it seem about right

[@jamesdizerega2918]

A friend used an extended life coolant in his small block Ford and two years later after pulling the intake manifold he noticed the gaskets had turned to mush. There are several classic car sites that say NEVER use an extended life coolant in a classic car because it eats up sodder in radiators and damages gaskets and seals. Views should check these sources of info out.

[@TheGT350Garage]

Seems like you need to watch the whole video. The gasket softening and solder damage is a result of using coolants with incompatible additive packages. The coolants I recommend in this video are suitable for use in ALL classic cars, using rubber or silicone hoses, all gasket compositions, copper/brass or aluminum radiators, and with iron or aluminum blocks and heads. Sounds like your friend used a coolant with 2-EHA and a Phosphate based additive package (essentially GM DexCool or an ELC variant of DexCool, perhaps with Nitrites as well) which was incompatible with copper/brass heat exchangers and silicone enhanced fiber gaskets (example: FelPro Printoseal technology). I don’t make my recommendations lightly, they are heavily researched and I’ve used these products for years in fleet service.

[@gregryerson6652]

Fantastic video series, great info! Any concerns of mixing the Peak Final Charge Global 50/50 with light residual of Green coolant that was drained? My '65 Mustang 289 coolant system has been drained at radiator but I'm not sure how much liquid remains in the system and if it is compatible with the Peak product. Thanks again for the detailed descriptions of everything.

[@TheGT350Garage]

If the residual green is more than 3-5% of the total volume, it significantly shortens the life of the ELC. I would drop the lower hose into a 5-gallon bucket and back flush with 3-4 gallons of distilled water through the heater hose connection on the intake manifold (behind the thermostat). Start with flushing the heater core if it has green in it, then run the distilled back through the manifold and it will flush any coolant out of the heads and block through the water pump. There are drains on the side of the block if you feel like being extra thorough, but the back flush is usually adequate. Be sure to properly dispose of both the used coolant and the contaminated water.

[@nickbonvino]

Thanks for the time making this video. Any issues with the ELCs and leakage issues?? I’m finally considering changing to Mobil Delvac in my ‘70 Mustang… what are your thoughts?

[@TheGT350Garage]

Be careful with your choice, follow the guidelines I gave in the video. Avoid coolants with 2EHA and Nitrides. The coolant I recommend in the video works well, no issues. It’s completely compatible with a vintage cooling system.

[@twinfin8867]

Good info. Question: When using undiluted coolant requiring you to mix with Water. What water is best? If not Distilled water added to coolant and not tap water either. Maybe just filtered water?

[@TheGT350Garage]

When you mix concentrated antifreeze with water you can use distilled. The antifreeze has the corrosion protection properties needed to protect the engine. With straight water you need to use a filtered but not distilled water, and that is also acceptable for top offs. Avoid mineral water and water with high calcium content, it’s also not recommended to use softened water because of the process used to extract the mineral content. Hot water from the tap nearest the tank is usually the best choice for tap water because the water heater naturally drops the minerals out of suspension (which is why how water headers end up being full of minerals when they are replaced and the amount of water they can heat ends up being less than half of what it was new).

[@twinfin8867]

@@TheGT350Garage Thanks for quick answer! I love how in depth your explanations are; The amount of mineral deposits inside my Edelbrock Water Intake Housing at the thermostat restricted half of the flow! '64 Galaxy 500 with newly built 289 sat for more than 10 years with no Antifreeze(aka Anti Corrosion), just water in the system. Makes me wonder about everywhere else.

[@TheGT350Garage]

@twinfin8867 you’ll need to flush the engine with a mild acid like 5% vinegar. It will remove most of the excess corrosion from the system. It would be a good idea to replace gaskets after and inspect all the aluminum components (manifold, timing cover, etc.) before running the engine in regular service.

[@twinfin8867]

@@TheGT350Garage Thanks again. If I am not willing to tear down to replace gaskets at this time should I skip the Vinegar when i flush? Your answers are brilliant.

[@TheGT350Garage]

@twinfin8867 at the bare minimum you’re going to need to replace the thermostat. Putting vinegar in the system for a couple hours will remove both aluminum and iron oxides. Be sure to neutralize with a couple tablespoons of baking soda and water, then flush with just water, do a final drain and fill with coolant. You’ll want to keep an eye out for leaks and monitor coolant levels. You want to make sure you don’t get coolant / water in the oil, or lose a freeze plug. It’s also safe to say your radiator and heater core are suspect as well.

[@LarryNagl-mg1tl]

Do you fill radiator completely full or do you leave room for expansion, I have a 1964 galaxy with 289 engine

[@TheGT350Garage]

If you update to a recovery style cap with overflow reservoir, you can fill it completely. If you run a non-recovery cap, leave 1” to 1-1/2” in the top tank.

[@ksacky]

What do you suggest when conveting to ELC coolants from older coolants, flush etc.

[@TheGT350Garage]

Best to remove the plugs in the block after draining the radiator, gets you about 95% clear of the old coolant. If that’s not feasible, 2-3 flushes with distilled water, you can use a radiator flush product the first time with water, and the systems will be acceptably clean and free of the old antifreeze by the third round of water. I recommend if you can’t get the block plugs out, Jack the rear up and put it on stands, the block will empty through the timing cover and water pump. I typically use 10-15psi air to clear out the heater core and even the block.

[@chrisbober6818]

Great information on your channel. I have a 65 ford fastback and I am having heating issues. Can I email you to "pick you brain" on what I might need to do?

[@TheGT350Garage]

Absolutely. [e-mail].

[@president89]

If you use one of the coolants you list, will that negate the need to flush your system every year. Generic coolants cause my coolant to turn brown after about a year. I always have to flush it out.

[@TheGT350Garage]

If you do a complete drain and a chemical flush to remove rust, scale and sediment from the cooling system, an ELC will last 8-12 years. Coolants usually turn brown when you mix different types because the additives are not compatible.

[@rickgamba8028]

What are your thoughts on Peak All Vehicle 10x or Prestone Max? They don’t seem to have the bad stuff you mentioned, last a long time and are compatible with any residual conventional antifreeze left over after flush. Thx.

[@rickgamba8028]

Correction. Prestone Max has 2-eha so forget that one.

[@TheGT350Garage]

The five heavy duty long life coolants in the video description were listed for their chemical properties and color. Using a red coolant in the system is a reminder that the coolant is not ordinary coolant and “universal” top up coolant may not be compatible. The Peak 10X SDS is pretty vague, I can’t directly recommend it.

[@Gilbertajallecruz]

2008 Mustang V6 premium can I use this coolant in my car without harming the engine? Thanks!!!

[@TheGT350Garage]

No. Your car should call for Ford gold (G-05) coolant, it’s a silicate based long life (5-8yr) coolant, you need to stick to it.

[@Gilbertajallecruz]

@@TheGT350Garage Ok thanks!

[@douglasknutsen]

Would you also suggest using the Peak Final charge global in a 2011 Honda vehicles ?

[@TheGT350Garage]

No. Honda uses their own long life coolant and there is no advantage to changing the coolant speciation. On vintage cars however, the advantage is substantial, and using an ELC will help reduce cooling system related failures.

[@mustangeroo]

Wish I would have watched before buying that G40.

[@MrAntonomy]

Way too detailed! Just tell me what Coolant is the best and why period.

[@TheGT350Garage]

Gotcha, you prefer “This is the topic of the video, do this….. SQUIRREL!!!!!”

[@NateG3678]

Being detailed and understanding all the logistics helps you become a successful tech and not just a parts replacer.