Ease… What is Ease? The likely reason why your garment is too big when you’re a beginner at sewing!

[@patbowman6723]

Evelyn, if I were near you I'd give you the biggest hug ever. I recently lost 40 pounds and since my clothes don't fit I decided to sew a few shirts, cheap ones not the you would wear out to some place nice, I gave up clothes making a long time ago because my sewing simply made big bags. So, I was sewing and I had you on and darned if you had a episode on ease and in it you spoke of the garment measures. I never heard of this but listened and started on my 3nd blouse using the right size, pretty material and I was amazed, and shocked at what I sewed. Me of all people, sewed the cutest blouse that I would be proud to wear especially since the weight loss. It made me feel cute and skinny. I now wear a size 8 and am so happy that it fits me so well. My husband saw it and said, your going to wear that around the house, it's too pretty not to wear it out. That made me so proud. If it were not for your video I would still be wearing big baggy clothes. I can not thank you enough. 1 little tip from you and now I want to make more clothes that fit me properly. Thank you so much.

[@carolhardy3273]

Another of Grandmother's rules: I can cut it small, but I can't cut it big again. You can take away excess fabric in the fitting before finishing, but you can't put it back if you cut to your exact measurements. I belong to a few FB groups and constantly I see young/new sewers suggest fitting the pattern, the paper pattern to the body and removing all excess. I NOPE that idea in he bud! NOPE. Nope.Nope. If you pin the pattern to yourself, take out all the ease, try reaching for a cuppa! Paper tears, so will the dress. Cut the pattern, pin or baste the fabric pieces,try it on, reach for the stars, you will quickly learn what ease is for.

[@sophiab7368]

I wish more patterns had finished garment measurements on the envelope, would make life so much easier. I don’t how many times I’ve made something and it was a totally different size when I started sewing. Now I tissue fit all the garments I make and can adjust the fit without ripping out all those seams.

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Excelent!!! You definetly have to measure the pattern or tissue fit to get control in how you want it to fit! It's a mystery otherwise!

[@en1909s9iah]

Agreed, because you can also measure your own clothing, and get an idea of how much ease you like. I use like clothing to have more ease than usual... But for the people I sew, they usually want it to be almost ripping from such tightness!

[@kristathehungrymelon]

@@Evelyn__Wood What is tissue fitting? :O

[@tex1622]

What is tissue fitting? I've had the same issues, and just threw in the towel on commercial patterns, choosing instead to take patterns off my own clothes. But I'd love to be able to use commercial patterns if there is a way not to lose all that precious fabric and time!

[@raraavis7782]

Sophia B Agreed. I mostly sew with Burda patterns and I learned the hard way, to first compare the actual pattern pieces with existing garments, before committing to a size.

[@haveaballcrafting8686]

One of my hobbies is collecting drafting manuals. It took me a very long time as a beginner to recognise the inbuilt wearing ease that was being put into slopers. Now I add a table into the back page of each manual I find, listing what the author considers standard wearing ease for different garments. I have a plan to eventually have a drafting manual for each decade from 1880 onward and analyse the differences in sloper shape, ease, grainline, etc for each decade.

[@Saxinful]

Ahh now I understand why I put on a finished garment and find it too baggy, but check my measurements and find it should fit. Thank you for helping with this head scratcher!

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Yes! You will definetly benifit from the others coming in this mini series then too then!!

[@donkelly4718]

Another likely candidate, especially if the "too big fit" is more localized, like say it's too big in bust/hip but fits fine in waist, etc. Is just the process of "grading" the pattern went through, which is the process of making the pattern larger and smaller from the size it was drafted in (usually a size 6) to other "standard sizes"

[@sometimessnarky1642]

@@donkelly4718 I get that a lot in patterns because I don't fit the classic size. I have a type of hourglass shape and they don't make patterns like that so I have to adapt EVERY pattern - \/ ( ) I don't think my shape is even on the scale. Apple, pear, hourglass, square.... Nope....I'm a water balloon still being filled at the spigot.

[@donkelly4718]

@@sometimessnarky1642 that is precisely why, as an aspiring designer I want so very much to do ETIRELY custom made to measure collections. "Standard sizing"(not that there is even a hint of standardization in the sizing in the industry between brands) simply doesnt work....it never really has, especially for women. I mean, you can kind of get away with it to some degree with mens clothing, as mens body shapes tend to be straighter and more angular, but womens bodies are nonstop curves joining other curves on a curve, lol.....and every woman's figure is unique......besides, a person's wardrobe really is such a big and personal expression of thier unique personality that mass production really is an injustice accepted for the trade off of deceptively "cheaper" clothing.

[@yettaoshea8869]

Well, I have to say that the amount of ease pattern companies use has changed over the years. Been sewing for 40+ years and when I started sewing the ease was a lot smaller than it is now. Had more problems with things being too small. Pattern companies change their standards whenever they want and without any notice. I have copies of the exact same pattern bought at different times and the sizing is not the same. Glad you are explaining this inconsistency so new sewers will have this understanding and know to buy erring on too large and do muslins to adjust fit.

[@tex1622]

After many sewing patterns gone awry in relation to size, the last straw for me was when I sewed up a size small top using expensive fabric, and it was still too big to fit Shrek. I threw in the towel, and have ever since stuck to taking patterns off clothes I already own or drafting patterns myself using my own measurements and I've had MUCH more success. But every now and then, I spy a commercial sewing pattern that I just pine for, so I'm keen to learn more about how to fix this bloody commercial pattern sizing issue in the future - thanks Evelyn!

[@frankieamsden7918]

When I was younger and thinner I never worried about ease. Now that I'm heavier nothing I sewed would come out. I think it's because of ease. I look forward to the next videos in hopes that I can start creating my own clothes again successfully!

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Frankie I hope so too! This mini series will help you understand patterns and their sizing, ans how best to select your closest starting size!

[@raraavis7782]

Frankie Amsden It’s definitely much easier to predict, how something will fit you, when you’re still all slender and willowy! With a couple more pounds in the wrong places, it’s so much harder, to find that sweet spot between unflatteringly tight and too baggy 😆

[@madzikowo102]

Hello! I am not into vintage clothes, but the way how you explain things is amazing :) thank you

[@Loyal-cat]

I really didn't understand ease until just recently with my knitting. What many knitting designers are doing is stating the amount of positive and negative ease is in the pattern for the size that match your measurements. Then in any photo of a model that is wearing the item it states what size they are wearing with usually bust size for sweaters.

[@ellissardorian7834]

That’s how I learned about ease, too!

[@redwillowcreations6919]

My ribbon skirts have a lot of design ease. I never really knew that though.... thanks Evelyn!!! How neat.

[@Evelyn__Wood]

😃😃 I love hearing your light bulb moments!

[@joanthomas7082]

Thank you for doing this series. A sewing "guro" of mine, Nancy Zieman, has published quite a few books on sewing that are very helpful too. She has passed away not too long ago which is sad, but her videos and books are still available. I am thankful for other young ladies like yourself who are willing to try and help sewers like me who still have so much to learn.

[@Evelyn__Wood]

I'm glad you find my videos helpful! That's why I do what I do! ❤

[@susanrussell8195]

Loved Nancy!

[@MsDawn0113]

@Jona Thomas Is she the "Sewing With Nancy" on PBS? If so she is the one that inspired me to start sewing in the first place.

[@sarahkuzma9]

@@MsDawn0113 yes, it was the same Sewing with Nancy on PBS.

[@hartsarah12]

It is from one of Nancy's books that I learned to buy a pattern based on armpit crease to armpit crease. She mentioned to do this because the top fitting is harder to adjust.

[@vixxie1490]

This woman is like a ray of sunshine..i can't stop watching..3 hours later I'm like "never stop talking! I wanna know everything about ease and patterns" (i don't even have a sewing machine)

[@melikenursultanuner3344]

Hi Evelyn! I just finished the whole series and I want to thank you :) Your explanations are very clear. I've been sewing for almost 3 years but I don't have any formal education for this. Your channel is like a treasure for an autodidact sewer. Thank you so much!

[@rachellederanger1012]

For a what??? I agree with the rest of this comment 👍

[@istiundcaro]

The Interruption was adorable 😍

[@sometimessnarky1642]

I remember taking a home economics class in high school and asking the teacher "What is ease?" And the blank stare before the answer "how hard a pattern is" [sic] And my 13 year old reply..... "So is negative ease telling me not to even try because I'll fail?"

[@haveaballcrafting8686]

In high school home ec. we had to make a skirt. I didn't want the mini-length pencil skirt we were recommended and picked a pattern with pleats and a v-shaped yoke. My teacher said I could make it if I wanted, but she wouldn't be able to help me if I got stuck. The following year we made baby bibs and teddy bears. She spotted me embroidering bullion roses on my bib and stopped the class to come and look at this incomprehensible magic. I didn't learn much about sewing from her. But hey, self-cooked hot lunch once a week!

[@MiljaHahto]

Your teachers don't sound very professional...

[@mauradias2862]

as a beginner, our teacher said that for garments that are a thicker fabric (will not show on the outside) and will have a interior lining we can add a whole two centimeters to each seam allowance and sew it to your current size that way (hiding all the excess fabric on the insides of the garment) so that if in the future we gain weight we can undo the seams and resew to the new bigger size.

[@nancymandle5215]

just wanted to add my congratulations to other well-wishers here in the comments. I’m one of your earlier viewers, having discovered you a few years ago, and here you are now, with over 100k subscribers!!!! So love your channel and i learn something important every time!!!

[@susanrussell8195]

I loved the inserted clip where you explained ease as in easing in a sleeve. The only garment I never finished was because of this. I was 17 years old and thought the sleeve should not have any gathers. I wadded it up and threw it across the room after the 3-4th time trying.

[@juliewinnington662]

Thank you so much for this video series! I just tossed a dress project because of the very reason you are explaining. I cut my size according to body measurements, made a mock up, it was too big. I made a second dress with modifications for fit, this led to a wonky end project. Clearly, I need to cut the right size first!

[@naomihabedank2417]

Now I know why the dress I sewed up didn't fit my measurements! Thank you for explaining!!

[@mamasewista8624]

Thank you Evelyn for adding closed captioning, really appreciate it. Can get loud at home with exhaust fans on (steamy windows) & this really helps me to not have to turn the tv up.

[@sagithayang]

Just want to say Big Congratulations for 100 k, I'm so happy finally you reached it, and you deserved it 😇💕

[@Evelyn__Wood]

😃😄 Sagitha thankyou so much! It has happened quite quickly in last few weeks! Thankyou for being here and help making it happen! ❤

[@kristathehungrymelon]

@@Evelyn__Wood I think this means KZbin sends you a Silver Creator Award now! So excited for you!

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Yes! A shinny silver button! 🤣

[@fallenangelforever]

I recently found your videos and they are so incredibly helpful! I started sewing 13 years ago and got so into it. But as a teen I just wanted to rush all my projects. So learning all of these small things are amazing and helpful so I can make clothes that look less “homemade”.

[@tamaravsthevoid]

I honestly just always made my garments a size smaller to get a good fit 😅 since drafting my own patterns and making mock ups I haven’t had any where near the same issues, but I have been (without know what I was doing) adding ease in my own patterns 😆

[@envrgrl33]

THANK YOU!!! I always have this problem with patterns. It made me stop sewing for years since nothing ever fit. I have picked it back up again and am determined to make it work. Your videos are coming at the perfect time!

[@nat6098]

It's nice to have a good working definition of ease. Due to my body type I always have to tissue fit and mock up everything because my bust, waist, and hips are all different sizes which makes things interesting. I'll have to start looking at what ease is included and add that into my pattern picking/altering.

[@Celestyal22]

After jumping though multiple videos of people explaining ease but was actually just a poorly veiled advertisement, thank you for getting to the point.

[@kateperez7444]

Yes, thank you 🙏 for clearing that up! I made a not so little Little House on the Prairie dress for my daughter and me. They both turned out enormous! I had also added my own ease thinking it would fit like the vintage patterns. Now I’m not so embarrassed about my enormous mistakes! I am really enjoying your sewing classes at VSS. Thank you. It really has taken my sewing up a notch. Blessings. Kathleen

[@attilathehen1555]

Thank you for this video. It came out just as I was about to sew a new pattern and it really helped me choose the right size. I used some cheap material so that if it goes wrong, it’s not too bad, but it has turned out well. It’s for a princess line dress that can also be a top, so I made the top. I have some more expensive material to make a dress. The suggested size gave 4” of ease round the bust so I measured a similarly cut blouse in a similar material and 2” of ease was right, so I sewed a size smaller than the pattern said my measurements needed. I will now sew my dress with greater confidence. Thank you so much! 💐

[@Evelyn__Wood]

I'm so happy to hear it!! 😄😄

[@jayneeojeda5677]

your theory on the extra ease is brilliant!

[@juliefox77]

Ah ha! Now I know why everything I’ve tried to make turned out gigantic!!! Thank you!

[@lestranged]

When the word ease is used as a verb, like "to ease in a sleeve", I have always thought that was different than gathering or pleating, that the goal was to not have any visible gathers or pleats showing. Trying to sew a larger piece to a smaller piece but to NOT have obvious poofy gathers, Like you don't want a puffed sleeve, you want the seam to be as smooth as possible (as much as it can be when the 2 pieces are different sizes). I still use the basting stitch / 'pull a thread like a drawstring' method but I just try to distribute the fullness as evenly as possible across the sleeve head to avoid any large pleats or gathers. Like the gathers might just be micro-gathers smaller than the length of one stitch, and then you press the heck out of it, with steam, to try to shrink and flatten out that micro-pleat. Can you do a video on your technique for 'easing in" that has no (or minimal) visible gathers in it?

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Yes you are absolutely correct! When you 'ease in fabric' the aim is to have no visible gathers or such just like you say! And that might mske a great video! Thanks for the suggestion! 😃

[@MsDawn0113]

@@Evelyn__Wood Please make a video on this. I've watched some others videos but I seem to "get it" when I watch your's.

[@sueiverson258]

My favorite way of easing a larger thing into a smaller thing is to put the larger part next to the thread dogs of the machine.. It usually works without even putting in gathering stitches.

[@lynnettebraye1319]

Thank you for clarification on Ease on a pattern.

[@fakecoat4927]

This was very helpful and I'm looking forward to the next videos regarding measurement and what sizes to use!

[@TheSewingChannel]

Yay! YOU JUST HIT 100k 🎊🎉🎊I’m celebrating with you!!!🎉🎊🎉🎊🎉🎊🎉🎊🎉🎊😀😃

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Thankyou so much!!! 😃😃

[@elizabethanstuff4430]

Wonderful! I am so excited for the videos in this series. I understand ease very well in hand knit garments but despite many years of sewing don't know how to manage it in sewn ones.

[@MJHinCA]

Oh my gosh! I'm 3 minutes into the video and suddenly a I felt like a light bulb went on! Talk about " an ahah! " moment. The definition alongside make so much sence. Thank you for this.💕

[@katherinemorelle7115]

This series is definitely going to be super useful! I’m endeavouring to make a couple of garments for my pregnant friend, in knit fabric (which I’ve never sewn with before), and because she’s a busy lady, I won’t be able to get her to come for fittings all the time. And I’ll be working from a big 4 pattern. So being able to understand how much ease they use, and what size to select for her, and knowing that ease is really important, especially in maternity garments, I’m definitely going to need this series of videos! Now if only my back would hurry up and get better so I can get back to work on my current project, and then I can start hers.

[@TheSarahmartha]

Love your videos! Wishing you an easy recovery, 🙏🏻🙏🏻

[@gondolin12]

a challenge for Evelyn: to get out of comfort zone and to sew at least two items from Burda Magazine patterns that are at least three dots level. European followers and Burda magazine owners like so that Evelyn sees this challenge 🌷

[@MissHimbeere]

That would be so nice.

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Hmmmm.... can I pretend I didn't see this??? 🤣 And who's 'thumbsing this up' anyway! 😂😂😂 These Burda magazine patterns seem to be very popular in Europe! I only first came across them in a thrift store, I saw that birds nest of pattern lines and gasped in shock! I have them still, perhaps we make it comedy video! 😉

[@tex1622]

Aggggh, Burda! Why are all Burda patterns written in Swahili? I second the comedy video! 😋

[@shinomiya89]

@@Evelyn__Wood Burda... jesus... I live in Germany and Burda is THE pattern label here. You can find some Michaels (or something like that, for cosplay), and some simplicity. but mostly Burda. The release magazines with pattern in it, and they are terrible. You can't understand which pattern belongs to what, but for the "Burda Easy" magazine, the pattern are all separated. Only problem, the size are meant for models only. They go until size M/L only. And that is really bad because the Magazine is meant for "beginners", and people with other sizes, are left out. They actually do have a magazine called "Burda PLUS", for "PLUS" size, but it isn't meant for beginners. At least not when it comes to pattern. But to say the truth, none of their magazines are meant for beginners. Because the explanation are written horribly, and many steps are left out. A few years ago, many people, me included, have told them that this is a huge problem. Many people on their FB Page complained about it. Even the advanced ones. They said that they would keep that in mind, but not sure if anything changed since then. I don't really buy any pattern from them. Maybe something simple like a leggings only. But that's it. Hope I was clear enough, English is not my mother tongue, sorry T_T

[@shinomiya89]

That's a really mean idea you have.... . . . But I like it too ! XD

[@Cedardale_craft]

Thank you thank you. Please can you do a video with tip about actually cutting out the pattern and fabric? I struggle with this for some reason.

[@MiahGrace]

That’s fair, it’s difficult. I second guess myself and stare at my fabric for like an hour extra while I cut things out

[@MsDstarr]

Yes please and also grading between sizes. I'm usually between sizes

[@Evelyn__Wood]

The first cut it always the scariest! 🤣 Do you mean more the acually cutting wuth scissors? Or making sure everything is laid out correctly and on grain etc??

[@Cedardale_craft]

@@Evelyn__Wood I mean cutting out with scissors or a cutter. I'm thinking of things like how to stop the fabric/pattern shifting as you cut, getting a smooth cut (not jagged edges). Do you cut between the pattern pieces first and then go round the patter or go the round the pattern straight away? I could probably think of more things

[@Cedardale_craft]

@@Evelyn__Wood also best types of scissors or rotary cutters for the job and different parts of the project

[@maryphibbs8404]

This has been a problem for me. Thank you for sharing this very helpful information.

[@mandmauckland]

Nice to hear an accent from my part of the world!

[@judyjennings-gunther4022]

Lately I have been making vintage patterns from the 30-40's. Although in today's sizes I wear a 12 in vintage I am a size 16. When I have made my mock ups for size 16 vintage they fit beautifully. There really isn't anything I have to adjust. Speaking of ease...I have been wearing vintage clothing for a long time(30-40's is my favorite) and get 99% of clothing from thrift stores. Although I am slim I have a broad back(I call it my swimmers back) I have several jackets that fit me great and are very flattering except for the hug factor. I don't have enough ease in the shoulders and upper arms, so I can't really put my arms out or up to hug anyone. Hahha

[@jeanwestackroyd2966]

Thanks for your explanations Evelyn ! Its great that you go through all these things, thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@dianneunderwood8456]

thank you for a good presentation on ease. I have been learning to draft patterns and one thing that is always in my mind is how much ease to allow when working on tops with or without sleeves. (Apparently more ease is required for a top with sleeves). And then the question arises about how much ease for the bust and will it be the same for the waist, etc. So you can see how challenging it may be to try drawing up a simple pattern! Look forward to watching your other videos as there is always something good to learn or gain more insight about.

[@janisbrunst4226]

Thank you for this video. I find different pattern companies vary quite a bit in the fit.

[@Evelyn__Wood]

They vary so much! Another reason it is so tricky!

[@banthony8545]

Well done instruction. The more fitted a garment is, the more skill one needs with allowing the right of amount of ease where you want it in a garment. I started sewing in 1975 and even then I found the patterns ran big to given measurement sizes. To me Vogue patterns fix closer to the envelope sizes. Pattern instructions are often so vague too. Even after all these years of sewing I come across instructions that puzzle me.

[@fitnessbitch]

I somehow discovered you 2 days ago and I’m obsessed! You explain we’ll your great to look at and your accent is sweet. Thanks for enhancing my sewing experience!!!! Xo

[@Angela-jy8um]

It would be nice if these videos were in a playlist from first to last. As a beginning sower I am not sure where to start and so this is the third video of yours I've clicked on trying to learn the steps of reading a pattern well, but you keep referring me to something else it seems I need to know first.. thanks for sharing these videos. I'm excited to learn.

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Watch Video #2 in the series - HOW TO FIND EASE ON A SEWING PATTERN? kzbin.info/www/bejne/gKmYmqF4hbupabc I remember the clouds parting and a whole new sewing world opening up to me when I first learnt what ease was and WHY 😅! Tell, me, what has been your experience with ease on patterns?? Join me at Vintage Sewing School if you're ready to take your sewing to the next level www.vintagesewingschool.com/

[@JessicaO490Z]

One frustrating thing I found when starting (before I learned you should make a test peice first) was that even if the pattern size was exactly the same as my body measurements, the ease makes it way too baggy. To the point that I wonder if they just assume you are going to try to make it too small a size for vanity and so the 30" waste size is really for 32".

[@kefirheals7383]

When I began sewing in the 60's, patterns for your given size, say a size 12, resulted in an end product that was either spot on or a tad smaller, or a tighter. People, in general, did not carry as much fat on their bodies as they do today. Fast forward to current times, I buy a pattern, the end garment is slightly bigger than I intended. I feel it's because pattern makers know that women mostly, perceive themselves smaller than what they really are. Or, don't really know their true size. So, pattern makers make patterns to fit "our perceived size". They call this body distortion image. We view ourselves smaller than what we really are. This is reinforced by garment makers putting distorted "size tags" on clothing. You know your measurements should equal X, say a size 12, but you go to the store and wow, you can fit into a size 8. So, you go about thinking you are much smaller than you really are. So, buying a pattern can be quite deceiving if you don't own up to your actual size, bust, midriff, waist, hips, even the width across your back at the shoulders. I found that making my own patterns from a ready made garment that I love, works better than buying a pattern. Just my thoughts.

[@litariddock1286]

I'm enjoying this series and learning a lot about pattern language. Pattern ease is a great topic. This is the first video I've seen explaining it. Looking forward to more videos on modern versus vintage patterns and sewing techniques. Peace

[@Tunanunaa]

I wish i knew this sooner. I even went to a sewing class once and the instructor told me to make a top based on my measurements and it’s soo big. Hopefully now I can take it in for a more flattering fit

[@phazei]

Thank you for the aside about shoulder ease, that was actually what I specifically searching for. Now I know how to adjust my search. A link in the description if you have a video on that type of easing would be wonderful.

[@oliviaknight1123]

Yes! I was hoping the same thing, I'm making a wrap shirt and it mentioned ease at the shoulder. I was very confused as I thought I knew what ease was. Perfect timing for the clarification ❣ great ideaypu suggest, I'd be keen to watch that video😊

[@teresas.3979]

I am hoping this solves some of my more troublesome pattern issues.

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Teresa definetly stay tunned for the other videos in the mini series as they all go together in how better to select your starting size! 😊

[@melaniefunk693]

Thank you :) I'm looking forward to learning more! I think when I went from trying to make a body block to trying to make a shirt - it was the ease that was missing :) :) Fit great but could barely move my arms without everything pulling...

[@jessicaarroyo7171]

Another great video :) I've just joined Vintage Sewing School and I'm super excited!

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Yaaaay!! Jessica I'm so excited!!! I can't wait to see what you create! You have all this and more in VSS already, so your all set to get this choosing the right size bussiness covered!! 😄😄

[@katysuemarfil2148]

Thank you SO much for your great attention to detail & ability to “ease”ily teach others lol pun intended ;) Also, I love your style! It’s so fun & reminds me of the beautiful Edith Piaf

[@hawksroostbooknook6440]

Thank you so much for this video series! I am excited to see the next two and learn from them. Keep up the good work Evelyn I really enjoy your channel!

[@michelecosijns968]

Looking forward to te next video's about ease and choosing the right pattern size! Always a fight :D Why the pattern sizes changed during time was something I also wondered recently. Maybe not an explenation why the ease became more over the years.... Over the years, the human body changed. We became bigger and taller, because better quality of life, food, healthcare, .... that might be a reason as well why a size 38 in a vintage pattern is much smaller then a 38 these day.

[@MissSexiDj]

You're a lifesaver! I've just discovered you and your videos are so useful for a beginner :)

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Yay!! I'm so happy to hear that!! Happy sewing!

[@suzannmorin7175]

@@Evelyn__Wood You are just the ticket!!! I've been sewing all my life, after being tutored by my creative mother, 2 sweet grandmothers, one of which was a professional, perfectionist, seamstress, the other an artistic genius! Oh, can't forget my wonderful Home Ec. teacher! Having just discovered you, I am astounded at how much I've learned, or confirmed, in the few videos I was blessed to find and watch. That is not to say they didn't teach me well, however, it does say that, apparently, the student must have not been paying too much attention! THANK YOU!!

[@nyaniittaylor8963]

Thank you so much. I have really technical questions so thank you s much. It wouldn't let me comment on some of your other videos so thank you so much

[@OzSteve9801]

When I had my knitwear business a number of customers (mostly women but a few men) would say they wanted a size 10 jumper. I could tell just by looking that they were really a 12. My approach was to say my knitwear was made to fit so I had to get my own measurements. I'd then ask how they wanted the garment to fit. Maybe pattern companies know some of their customers underestimate their size and add the extra in. Just a thought. Lol.

[@AngeliqueJDavis]

Hello Mrs. Evelyn! Thank you for the sewing videos 🧵 ♥️

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Thanks for watching Angelique 😃! I'm glad you find them useful!

[@EasyToSew]

This is such a helpful video! Thank you so much

[@LyssaJ]

I don't know how many garments I made before someone told me to look at the ease measurements instead of the measurement size! I swear some of those big companies have 4 inches of ease built into their garments LOL. At least it is easier to take things in than let them out.

[@HarunoHime07]

Thank you for making this video. I am so grateful for this video series you're making!

[@nwcountry]

Amazingly excellent teacher you are Evelyn ;) I hope you'll tell us how much "ease" we need, like 1 inch, 2 inch ;) I'll just keep watching, having a blast watching your vids!! I'm so glad I didn't order fabric yet, got the right patterns luckily, with what I think is my size 8, but NOT, LOL!! I'm definitely a mix of pattern sizes ;) Denise, Crescent City, CA

[@rachellederanger1012]

Thanks for this and all of your other videos. I really love them. I love the lay of your collar (cowel?) too. Do you have a lesson on the blouse on the form behind you? The one that ties in the front.

[@patriciahines7127]

Explained very well thanks 😊 . Really helpful .

[@Mab5]

Really well done. Glad I found your channel. Here’s to making my first shirt since high school Home Ec class!

[@MsHdudek]

Thank you so much for posting these videos.

[@donkelly4718]

In addition to built in ease, other reasons why finished garments from big 4 patterns, and modern patterns in general could be the result of the pattern having been "graded" up or down from the size/measurement it was drafted in to make it smaller/larger to other sizes, especially if fit problems are localized...fits in most of the pattern but not in one area.

[@donkelly4718]

To define "grading": in the fashion industry, on the design end, patterns for garments are usually drafted in a "standard" size 6. Once the design process is finalized and all, ease, proportions, and design details have been nailed down, that pattern is then "graded" up and down to the other "standard" sizes by adding or removing a pre determined amount to multiple points along the garment, usually along a side seam, while other points stay the same or unaltered. This often can result in some "fit distortion" where one or two areas fit well but one or two now are too big/small. This is confused even more as 1.) There is no "standard" really for the measurements in each size, and 2.) There is no real standard amount by which patterns are graded up or down in size. In both cases, the company themselves determines and sets thier own standards.

[@lestranged]

There is often poor grading in plus sizes. They just enlarge the pattern everywhere, but people do not put on extra weight evenly distributed over their whole body. Fat usually accumulates in specific areas. So like, a person can have a big butt and thighs and still have small or ''average' calves and ankles. People can have a big bust, but still have average size neck and shoulders and wrists, etc. Thin people tend to have more similarity in their proportions but larger people have a wider diversity of proportions and how they carry the extra weight. (apple shaped, pear shaped, etc) As a plus sized person, I am just always expecting I will need to adjust a pattern to my individual shape. Nothing is going to fit perfectly, off the rack.

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Yes!! Thankyou for explaining it for everyone reading! I agree that this is likely a cause for plus size especially. There is only so much you can do a standard grade, before it is just not going be 'right' anymore on the body. Different shapes on the body need to be reflected in the pattern grade as you go up or down, many sizes from the fitted sample.

[@bluejhaygrl]

Thankyou for this very much required information. The best ive seen on this subject...thankyou Evelyn. :)

[@adamreynolds9816]

So totally in love with your look! Stunning!

[@RowanTS]

It would be really cool if the next videos could also talk about adding ease to your own measurements/patterns, even if just briefly. I think it would be able to flow on neatly with all the ‘how to tell where ease is in a pattern’ bits, and I like to think I can’t be the only one stubborn enough to be learning things the hard way rather than using other people’s patterns! (And speaking of the other kind of ease, *holds up teddy bear sleeve he’s attempting to ease in* I could probably do with a video on that too lol!)

[@StephanieCanada]

Great video! And congrats for crossing over 100K!

[@Cyrilmc222004]

Thank you so much Evelyn, this is really really helpful and useful. Stay safe and well too xxx Mags

[@francoisethepot9414]

happy me I just bought a McCall's M6964 that tells you how to make the adjustments great for the people that start. I just pick the one for the tank top because I have bought 3 sweatshirts none of them fit me properly, I plan to use the 3 to make one the tank will help me fit my body on the fabric ho yes i will do a jigsaw sweatshirt

[@shellymay2505]

This is really interesting, I tend to have the opposite problem. I pick the size I think/match my measurements, and make it up and it's rediculously too small...

[@kelleyt3737]

Thanks for the video! Very informative.

[@vampiremystic]

Fantastic video, very informative. You made this so easy, thanks

[@MicheleBonna]

One of the most frustrating things about the "big four" envelopes is that they are not consistent with providing "finished garment" measurements in the places where it matter. I know about ease.. but trying to figure out how much is in any specific pattern is frustrating. I did find information on the "basic ease allowances" for some of the brands.. so when, say "McCalls" calls an item "loose fit" they generally mean it has a certain range of ease built in. I do not have any links on hand, as I am branching out into other "indy" patterns that seem to have more information to work with on the pattern envelope or description. When it has been provided it has helped me immensely. For example, I wanted a pattern that size range did not include my size, but when I looked at the ease to this "loose fit" item, it had TEN inches built into it. Suddenly, I could use their second to largest size offered as on my short frame, I steer away from that much volume in my clothing. Even with this and some sizing tweaks, it was much larger than I was expecting. Ease has to be the most important thing in finding a size that fits you as you want it to fit. I look forward to your next videos on the subject. :)

[@Evelyn__Wood]

I absolutely agree!! You have done well to put so much research in! You should look into learning to measure the patterns, so you know what the finished garment will measure, in all the measurments on any pattern!

[@judyjennings-gunther4022]

Vogue patterns tend to be more difficult to sew and run smaller. Simplicity tend to be very ill fitting. I prefer McCalls or Butterick. But I have noticed the vintage(1970's and older) Simplicity fit better. This is coming from someone who has been sewing for a very long time. :)

[@MicheleBonna]

@@Evelyn__Wood I mostly just hold the pattern up to myself to see if there is a grave difference between the size and how I want it to fit. My math is getting better.. and I am a touch more secure in my measuring, so I am confident measuring the pattern will be a much bigger help to me in the future. I do wish my country would go metric.. it would make things so much simpler.. and easier to be precise!

[@lestranged]

I will sometimes measure the tissue pattern to try to calculate the finished size, especially in areas where I know I am bigger or smaller than the standard. Like bustline, I measure across the front piece at the bustline, double that, and then measure the back bust, add it together, minus any darts or seam allowances, etc. That helps me know how much I need to add to make it fit me. You just have to be careful you are measuring from the sewing line, not the cutting line. With an overlapping front like button up blouse, you measure from center front line, not the edge of the pattern piece.

[@lynette.]

Thank you for this translation of pattern terms.

[@billiej03l]

Looking forward to yhe next video. All very usedul information. Congratulations kn your 100K subscribers. 💯

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Thankyou so much!! 😄😄😄

[@deidrabenson361]

Thanks sooo much for sharing!❤️

[@GaliadelaRosa]

Thanks for the video Evelyn! Really looking forward to the next vídeo, i have only used commercial patterns once and find the measurments so confusing

[@Parakeetfriend4215]

Ease is what makes a garment multiple sizes so that when you gain weight you can still wear it. Or so it was for me with a favorite shirt that I made.

[@samanthaknudson3084]

Thank you!! 😊

[@newtoatheism5968]

I always try to add a bit more fabric when I cut out my pattern just to be sure it fits but sometimes i make things too big

[@rc31802]

I wish big 4 patterns would clarify how much ease is in the pattern more clearly! Indi patterns often include it.

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Yes!!!!!! Where's the petition!! 😃

[@Luxxen101]

YES! Drives me crazy!

[@vernabohnert635]

Very good information 😋

[@raraavis7782]

Burda is definitively overdoing it with ease, sometimes. I recently cut out a shirt dress pattern, according to my measurements...I endet up, turning it into a summer coat. And granted, the fabric maybe being just a tad too stiff for a dress, was part of the issue, but it was definitely also just too big for a formfitting dress. Luckily, it had elbow length sleeves with cuffs and also went to my knees, so nobody would ever guess, that it was supposed to be a dress.

[@eWarriorDLC]

I found this with an older burda men's slacks pattern. Oooooo boi was I busy taking it in.

[@averybell4273]

Your videos are so amazing

[@annak1371]

Thank you.

[@davevanfunk8917]

Wow. I remember when patterns came in sizes.

[@EuphemiaGrubb]

Did you drop the 'Lovely Ladies & Gents'? I used to look forward to that.

[@maryherbach9233]

I've often equated sewing a pattern to house/wall painting: it's all in the preparation. Very few people can or would begin painting without preparing the surface first; same with sewing. When I was younger and impatient , I just wanted to GET GOING ALREADY! As soon as I resigned myself (back then) to doing the prep work, the "clouds parted and a whole new sewing world opened up". I now can't imagine just starting to cut fabric without fitting, etc. Why waste precious time on something you won't want to wear? And fabric ain't cheap either.