Easy build PTC Enclosure Heater for Better 3D resin printing - using W1209WK controller - by VOGMAN

[@X3msnake]

Awsome video Master, thanks for the tip and more importantly for investing the time to create a build tutorial that have been missing from the start :) I have added your video to the thinguiverse.

[@vogman]

Thank YOU for this amazing share. It's a great build. It must have taken you ages. You have my respect sir. Great job!

[@X3msnake]

@@vogman It was a iterative process back in the days of the photon OG. it took around 2 to 3 months development with a bunch of failed prints to get the supports just right to print in any printer, namely sla laser printers. The design had to take in account less great resins and i ended up making custom screw holes in order to avoid cracked cases My wish when I released the designs as public domain was that by now i would be able to buy a bootleg copy of my design from china at half the price it took me to build one. Turns out that designing around off the shelf chinese parts probably means that any chance of a bootleg will be low since the margins on that would most likely be too low lolol. Either way it is cool to have a diy part that still works after all these years.

[@Bullshitvol2]

I would consider throttling that heater down with a buck controller for safety reasons. A thermal runaway or broken fan on a 100W heater can lead to a burning disaster. It wouldn't be the first time a thermal runaway is responsible for a burned down house.

[@antronk]

​@@Bullshitvol2 PTC heaters can't suffer from thermal runaway by design. They are self-regulating and were specifically designed to run open-loop without any diagnostic controls. As the material heats up, its internal resistance also does exponentially, effectively self limiting.

[@Halicet]

I agree with VogMan.. thank you for sharing your build. Between you, Vogman, and some blender edits I now have a great little heater that has helped my prints immensely. You guys are awesome!

[@ModBay]

I'm actually using this heater for my Saturn semi automation project. One thing I would advise to anyone is grab a thermal fuse and place next to the ptc heater. If the fan fails, that heater, heats very quick and can potentially cause a fire.

[@vogman]

Nice tip. Thanks 😁

[@MrAshutts]

Hello, can you clarify what you mean by "place next to the PTC heater?" And also suggest a suitable fuse for this? Thanks!

[@scoobyhinton]

May I ask what type of thermal fuse would be best. I'm guessing it would need to be 10a but what would the cut off temp be.

[@MichaelMcClelland1]

I just want to thank you for the patient, well enunciated, and highly efficient and informative summary of the programming functions of the thermostat. The instructions are printed so small as to be nearly illegible, and what can actually be read is almost incomprehensible.

[@vogman]

That's very kind 😁

[@johnbaker5226]

These little heaters are worth their weight in gold. I made a similar one when I got my printer a year ago. My printer is out in the garage - I printed throughout the winter with no problems. I'm certain this wouldn't have been possible without it. As usual, your explanations are very well articulated! Please never stop making videos!

[@vogman]

Thanks for your input John 😁

[@C-M-E]

I've been increasingly active on the resinprinting reddit page and heaters have come up quite a lot lately. Purely as a mostly plug and play alternative, I've recommended using a reptile heat pad for a passive heat source that can be mounted directly inside the printing chamber. I happen to have one from an old fermentation acceleration experiment I ran several years ago, but they can easily maintain a small, enclosed space up to 30*F over ambient depending on the size you use. My print room is also my utility room where my washer/dryer is, so when it gets cool enough to affect my print temps, I'll suddenly be urged to do laundry and run my dryer to my indoor entrapment box, but for those in other areas that may not want to fiddle with the electronics (and barring the day I don't have dirty laundry, haha) I'll be going this route myself. I do like the work put into this solution though; good forward thinking, and having active temp control is really nice!

[@vogman]

Tanks for the input 😁

[@James-ri1wg]

Love your video! I will be adding this to my Christmas shopping list. However, rather than need a thermometer or device to check the temps...place the RTD into a glass of ice water. I do this quite often as an Industrial Automation Engineer. You can use a kitchen temperature device just to double check your glass of ice water. Seems like extra steps...but if you have OCD like me...make's life simple! Once again...love your videos! This one has garnered a subscribe mate!

[@vogman]

Thanks James, great to have you here. That's a very clever idea... ice water, giving you 0c or 32f. Clever. Never thought of that. You've clearly got an engineer's mind 😁😁😁👍👍👍

[@moosekatdeluxe]

If only this came out last week. I started building a small chamber heater for my VoxeLab Proxima using a 120w heater instead of the 100w you used. I was trying to design my own case for it to hold a W1209 temp controller, but then saw this video. Ordered the smaller controller you used and printed the case last night. Came out perfectly (it is temporarily in my spare bedroom all toasty) once the controller comes will wire up. I presumer the side circles on the case are also for magnet placement, so I can stick it on the side of the metal column.

[@GarbachNL]

Been using it for a year now, and makes a HUGE difference! Totally recommend!

[@vogman]

Thanks for the feedback 😁😁😁👍👍👍

[@kelvinreid9606]

Great video! I live in Canada and have my printers in the basement. Having the resin at these higher temperatures makes a BIG difference. I have a similar rig but it is inside a Creality tent. The housing and magnets is a great idea.

[@lukearts2954]

Amazing! With this walk-through, even my mum would be able to make this! Awesome video as usual :))

[@vogman]

Thanks Lujke. And thanks Luke's mom 😁

[@allnicksweretaken]

Thank you so much for making this video! I have my printer in a pantry (with an exhaust fan to the outside), and it gets quite cold in the winter. This is exactly the solution that I needed! Also, your channel is top 2 among my favorite 3D printing channels, keep your awesome videos coming!

[@vogman]

You are so welcome!

[@marcobaldi9697]

Hi everyone can i ask for some help? I just finished building the heater but i have an electrical problem with the power connector (it's the one suggested by VOG, where you directly wire the cables in. It heats up to the point of smoking, i can't understand where the problem is. i bought the exact same parts listed in the video. Thanks for any help.

[@LarkspeedNL]

This is very cool but I have one question, if you are using a power port on the heater why would you run the cable through the cover and then plug it into the heater. Why not just install the power port in the cover, you would get a more efficient seal, it would give you more room for the wiring within the heater body and the cover would not be tied to the cable making operation much easier.

[@youtubevanced4900]

I printed one of these for my OG Photon a couple of years back. My setup is super jank but it works well. I actually merged the thing with a new side piece for the Photon. So I removed one of the the orange windows and put a plastic side in that I printed with the heater fitted to it.

[@jjpython]

I intend to print in the garage, living in scotland this is an awesome video, thank you

[@bots2beasts]

Excellent video. Thank You. Alternatively, you could move to Texas where I'm at and enjoy a 24/7 46 Celsius HEAT box I call a garage. It does drop enough in the winter for my FDM printer to have issues though, but the winters here are relatively short and mild compared to most places. By the way, your instructions are so clear and concise even a complete novice should understand them easily. Screw Terminal A/C two wire adaptor!?!? Where has this thing been all my life!?! Buying a big pack of those!

[@jordanoneill7052]

Id love to see a couple of test prints with and without the heater in winter. Would be interesting to see how dramatic the difference is.

[@vogman]

I guess for that you'd need a consistently cold temperature.

[@torbenklein9645]

Great video. I am going to give it a try. However I decided to print the cabinet på an filament printer. It gives me a more sturdy cabinet.

[@Born_Stellar]

I love when you can print something for the printer. or anything useful! so cool!

[@vogman]

Me too. I love the practical applications of 3D printing 😁

[@olDirdey]

Probably makes a difference where the PTC heating element comes from. Mine doesn't manage to heat the printing chamber by even 3°C in 2 hours. If you take the Amazon reviews as a comparison, this also fits with the statements of other buyers

[@garethnicholson7515]

Awesome video just about to print now I have all the parts only thing is have I missed the cable sizes that are required.

[@ClayMann]

Oh that is super useful. I don't understand why no printer manufacturers have even touched this built in or as an addon. I'd pay £99 right now for one that's designed to fit perfectly with my MonoX and I bet a whole lot of others would too. I wonder why no printers at all for resin have heaters and yet so many for FDM have heated beds? We know its necessary to print at above room temperature so heating is kinda needed. Anyway, call out to manufacturers to make something you can just slot in and go without the DIY! RN I'm using our outdoor patio heater thing in the shed and get up to 28c ish before I'll even consider starting a print. Its made a huge difference to print reliability but I don't like to think about what that added cost of heating the entire shed is. It is nice being all warm and cosy in the shed though, so there is that plus to a bigger heating solution haha

[@vogman]

Thanks Clay. Hopefully more printer manufacturers will listen (I believe a few already have) 😁

[@kjell6838]

So I have done this using a 24volt power supply and a 24volt ptc heating element however when plugged in it repeatedly turns itself on and off after 1 second unless I pull the plug from the power supply if I do not hook up the black wire from the heating element itself the device will remain on when plugged in I don't really know how to fix the issue or what might be the problem if it is the power supply not being strong enough or if the heating element is broken etc.

[@WhiteGloveFans]

Great video, thank you! My relay is causing the unit to turn off. Perhaps its a bad power supply providing too little current? Its the 10a 12v model but seems super lightweight and low quality?

[@imwatchinya]

Thanks for this VOG, i've been doing mostly 3 hr prints i achieve this by immersing the resin bottle in a pan full of hot tap water for aboot 10 minutes then shake the bottle for aboot 2 mins then pour, but like you say winter is coming and with windows open for ventilation the resin will soon cool so again thanks!

[@vogman]

Warming the resin through is a great approach, but as Angus showed us, even in Australia the temperature can drop enough to spoil a print.

[@CraigLYoung]

Thanks for sharing 👍 You made an excellent guide with easy to understand instructions.

[@vogman]

Glad you enjoyed it! 😁

[@TheSkeeve666]

just got a flashforge foto 9.25 and its in my conservatory it get bloody cold in there, just managed to print the case perfectly and bought all the parts from amazon along with a 120*C fuse just in case. i fixed it in place with magnets outside the enclosure. works amazingly. thanks for the guide

[@pabllok]

Hi, could you explain where did you solder the fuse and what kind of fuse it is?

[@TheSkeeve666]

@@pabllok i soldered it into the positive wire before the heater element and slid it into some heat shrink without shrinking it and it fitted in between the heater and housing on one side, there is just enough room. i used a 133*C thermal fuse. I had also replaced all the wiring with silicone wire (14 awg)

[@primeHeretic]

This looks good but are the recommended connectors (shown at 05:10 ) suitable? I have these they seem to get awfully hot. edit: So personally I would not use one of the connectors mentioned at the timestamp above, it's not enough it risks a fire. I used some xt30 connectors, maybe overkill rated for 30A they're small and cheapish.

[@shardperson3777]

Very nice video, definitely useful as i'm planning to set up an enclosure with fume extraction and needed to figure out heating, putting the heater element inside the printer definitely seems like a much better idea than heating up the entire enclosure.

[@vogman]

Should definitely be cheaper than heating the whole workspace... and better on the environment too 😁

[@CaseyTheBrash]

In brewing we have a heating element or pad and a temperature controller that plugs into the wall. A bit cheaper and no wiring. But it's not as keen.

[@vogman]

If is works Casey, go for it 😁😁😁

[@ianmcleod8898]

I've tried an enclosure hoping the ambient temp got above the minimum. It didn't so looks like this is what I need.

[@louieishii6609]

Anyone else having issues when using this heater? Mine is working fine when on "cold" and I'm able to program it but when I switch to "Heat" it fails a few seconds in, giving of a clicking sound and displaying "8.8.8" and blinking red :/ Please help!

[@christianblack2916]

Excellent as ever. I will be making a heater now the winter is coming out of the electrical stuff I have on hand. I wonder if the temperature probe would be is best in thermal contact with the resin vat so that the temperature seen by the controller is related to the resin temperature and not just the latest puff of warm air from the heater. Eventually the enclosure would all reach the target temperature but I am sure there would be many minutes of lag if the device was sampling the air temperature, and one might start off a print with cold resin if one took the thermistor's measurement literally.

[@vogman]

It's obvious you've given it plenty of thought. Nice one 😁

[@christianblack2916]

@@vogman Ah, I've been caught out before with temperature control gadgets. :)

[@richardbernhard1151]

Nice build had an extra one from Making active heating for my fdm printer. Surprised new resin printers don’t have these built in. Heck might open the possibility for more industrial resins since they can require higher temps.

[@vogman]

It surprises me too. Hopefully printer companies will take notice of this 😁

[@DiamondDogGoPewPew]

Should the Fan arrow be facing the front (the same direction the controller led's are facing) or towards the back (where the cover is)?

[@TvorCrl]

This is great! I've been wondering how I'm going to keep printing through the winter in my garage.

[@vogman]

I have printers in my garage too. I'll be building a few of these heaters 😁

[@Tobizocktwieder]

Hello, nice video. I want to build such a heater by my own and have all parts and the casing. But do you have a good idea how to switch from the power supply unit to some kind of rechargable battery pack? I would prefer to build that heater so that it doesn't need an extra cable outside the chamber ...

[@randalljames1]

I run a dehumidifier in my print room... serves to keep room warm (85-90ºF) and humidity down around 15%

[@vogman]

I prefer a cooler room temperature in honesty 😁

[@insederec]

Tried to build this, got as far as plugging it in and the controller heated up to 40 degrees and then died forever :/

[@TheCHAIRMENMAO]

This would have been great for me to know last year but I have made a full enclosure to cover both my printers with the ridged foam insulation and I use a space heater with a thermometer build in so I just turn it on it will keep both warm and I have enough room to keep the resin bottle so if I have to add everything is at the same temperature

[@vogman]

If you have the space, that's a excellent solution 😁

[@markwilliams5654]

Yep its 5c in the garage now it's winter ❄️❄️❄️

[@vogman]

Yes... not happy printing weather 😁

[@christianborrello1922]

it works very well. Great Job! Thanks

[@vogman]

Thanks for the feedback. I love mine 😁

[@MrPiggybank1974]

@VogMan Finally got all the items I need to build this for my Saturn 2, but before I go and get the cables from my local electrician shop, what type of Red/Black cables are they e.g grade, etc as I don't want to buy some that would melt e.g what do I ask for as this is not mentioned here as far as I can see cheers.

[@teabagNBG]

is it better to heat the enclosure or the vat directly? still unsure to decide between this method or a thermal vat band

[@MrAmos911]

Any additional advise on choosing a power source. I’m Uk based.

[@lagoondragoon]

Hi, any idea why my Thermo resets when its connected to the heater and i switch to heat mode? Cant seem to get this to work :/

[@alexandrebelisle7664]

Thanks for this walkthrough. I will make one :-) very helpful and to the point ;)

[@vogman]

Glad it was helpful!

[@etyrnal]

At the very beginning of the video, when resin is being show being poured into the vat, seeing all those air bubbles in the resin makes me wonder... imagine if they installed a little vibe motor -- like from a cell phone -- and just before printing begins, the vibe motor is run for a few moments to encourage any air bubbles to escape.

[@kainnonbooker1422]

Do the power supply need to be AC to AC or AC to DC?

[@davecolwell725]

Seems like someone could make a bit of money building and selling these I’d buy a pre build heater for my printer for sure.

[@vogman]

Lets hope they do. Good luck to them 😁😁😁

[@greenghostuk]

Hi can you help me with what Gauge wire is required for this please? Lots of people saying this build overheats a lot is that the case ?

[@thediscoman2001]

isnt the heater going to melt the material

[@Derrabe2]

I just followed this if the fan supposed to stay on constantly?

[@woodyscreations734]

Awesome video i really need this but to print it i need to keep it warm and to keep it warm i need this. Do you know of anyone who has a lasercut version???

[@christianapn]

Would someone be so kind an let me know if the warm airs is supposed to come out of the side of fan, or if the fan should push air through the heater and warm air comes out of the side with the dish like structure?

[@nippuckz]

One thing I noticed with this heater is the blue led for the set temperature disappear when viewed through the red cover of my saturn. Since the cover blocks out uv light dose this mean the heater controller is emitting uv light

[@vogman]

I can still make out the numbers, but you're right, it is a drawback of the red lids. Fortunately it works either way.

[@stoobydoo2002]

Great Video, got most of the stuff on order, however, I wondered what size fork connectors you use? I've seen 5 different sizes and didn't want to get the wrong size.

[@martindekoning8346]

Great idea, built it and it works great. 🤩👍🖖

[@vogman]

Nice to hear 😁

[@jothain]

That's quite nice design. At the end of last winter I already ordered some USB heater mat and it seems to get fairly warm, but I haven't tested it yet in my resinprinter enclosure. Still completely unknown if it needs fan to distribute heat or is it ok to just leave it in and wait. I think it's sufficient as volume is low, but gotta test. This definitely has the benefit of thermostat.

[@vogman]

I guess only testing will tell 😁

[@eduardohernandezsuarez7467]

hi! I'm from mexico and i couldn't find a 100w just find a 150W you think it will work or not?

[@MrAshutts]

I just made this and the little female adapter that connects the power supply to the rest of the components melted. I was only running the unit for about 5-6 hours. Any ideas why that happened? The inside of the adapter melted onto the power supply's male connector, so both are dead for me now.

[@womble321]

Just got the heater from the recommended supplier and it now says greater than 12 amps is required. So it needs 150W power minimum. 10 amp won't cut it.

[@stuartcommon4651]

Very nice! I wonder if this could be combined into a single unit with an air filter before the fan 🤔

[@vogman]

It could be done I'm sure 😁

[@MrPiggybank1974]

@vogman having my 3D printer here in the UK and I'm having this problem, although I cannot print the STL because the Temperature is too cold in the UK at the moment "4-5C", got any idea where I can get this printed at a good price, please. so I can carry on testing my 3D designs cheers.

[@patrickh9810]

Liked the video, thanks. May I ask what is de max safe temp?

[@DatFunnyPerson]

my power supply just got really hot and then it all shut off. now its not working anymore... all this work for nothing :((

[@MakenModify]

Great video as always :) thanks for the tip.

[@vogman]

Many thanks 😁

[@racerdeth]

The only thing I'm struggling to find is a 2.1x5.5mm barrel adaptor that'll actually handle 10A. The PSU I've ordered has come with an adaptor/terminal converter but I've seen quite a few reports of people building this and getting overheating, which'll almost certainly be down to using too fine a wire gauge and/or adaptors that can only handle 1 or 3A. It seems suspicious that none of the UK stores seem to sell them but the Aliexpress/Amazon lot do, as in, are they actually rated for 10A?

[@racerdeth]

As predicted I hooked this up and the screw terminal to barrel jack converter started overheating straight away. I've just hardwired it (controlling from the mains switch as the on/off) and now it's clicking on and off every few seconds. This is either the temp sensor not being happy or the power supply getting overrun. Next thing I'll try is knocking out half of the heater and seeing if halving the W and resultantly the A will make things breathe a little easier. I was pleased that in sourcing my own wire for the hooking up on my first test, the only bit that was overheating was the bit I thought it was. Doing the homework on the Current/Voltage/Power relationship paid off 😊

[@greenghostuk]

Hey Nick what gauge wire did you use in the end please

[@marcello9476]

one of the components doesnt ship to the united states. Is there a replacement for the heater?

[@gigahertz7752]

why S2 the wire is red?

[@mrtharpe]

Hello VOG! Great video. I'm having an issue with my build. The temperature controller is switching on and off when powered. I have everything that is on your bill of materials, exactly the same parts. The controller (therefore the fan and heater) power cycles about 2 times per second until the controller is on long enough to see the thermal probe. By that time the probe has far overshot the target temperature. Any ideas how to solve this? Thanks!

[@MrBurningrubber]

Amazing video thank you could you possibly link the power supply you use as I can't find it anywhere.

[@vogman]

I actually purchased this one from Amazon amzn.to/3pznJup

[@shaggyego]

Why do you have the fan on constant flow? Surely the relay could handle them both on the same switch? So you don't have the fan running 24hr needlessly?

[@vogman]

These heaters get VERY hot. You always want air moving over them 😁

[@tonygagey]

May I suggest replacing the magnets with suction cups?

[@vogman]

You could give it a try 😁

[@ViktorKatzy]

Great Video! Despite your link to crimping safely I could not get a grip of how you made the connection with the fork connector (what is hidden behind your insulation tape). Would it be possible to give a little more detail or a hint what to search for? Thanks in advance

[@vogman]

It's just a matter of squeezing the wires into one connector. 😁

[@ViktorKatzy]

@@vogman Obvious - but on the first glance TOO obvious for my electrically inexperienced mind :-3 thanks for clarifying

[@UnvarnishedTarnished]

It's kinda wild that people have always taken issue with this. My house /room where my printer is, is 17c consistently and I've never had any irregular failures due to temp. I've used elegoo resin, anycubics(regular and eco) sirayatech & phrozen.. I'm not saying it's a bad idea, just sharing my personal experience.

[@vogman]

You may have been lucky. If you look at the print I did here, it looks okay, but a closure inspection shows some warping where straight edges should be. These occurred at the uppermost part of the print, when the printer had been running for several hours and the room temperature had probably dropped below 14C. A couple of supports failed to print and that was enough to spoil the finish. On this project that didn't matter, but if detail had been critical, I'd have been doing a lot of swearing 😁

[@UnvarnishedTarnished]

@@vogman Ahhh you never fail to entertain nonetheless 😆 while I haven't had an issue yet, I'll definitely keep this in mind for the future! Thanks as always VOG 👊

[@shardperson3777]

I print dice, which require very precise printing and have a lot of warping issues, and with Siraya i've definitely seen the difference, in a heated room close to 30C i get dice that are at most within 0.1mm of being dimensionally accurate, same room and resin but without heating? Up to 0.5mm off

[@christophersteen1873]

This is neat, but save yourself the trouble and get a belt heater instead. Worst case you get an electric seed starter mat and use that instead.

[@eazeh]

Hey. Thanks for the tutorial. I programmed wired and programmed the controller as you showed in the video. A question that I have: why is the heater turn on and off depend on the temperature set , but the fan is always on? Is it possible to switch the fan on and off with the heater?

[@vogman]

I had the same reaction initially Chuck, but don't mess with it. Upon reflection I realised the fan needs to be on constantly to prevent the very hot parts within the unit overheating... plus it circulates within the enclosure and keeps everything toasty. Just remember, if you fan ever stops running, don't use it.

[@chezzykennedy5692]

@@vogman That first red wire you use did you cut it from the red heater wire? Call me silly but I can't work out the wires. I've ordered all the bits but don't have enough wires.

[@heyiamsven]

Somehow my W1209WK controller stops working if I want to change it from stock cooling mode to heating mode. The relay starts clicking and the device restarts endlessly.. Does anybody have a clue why the relay triggers?

[@Valdier]

Same here, did you ever resolve it?

[@achievementtv8934]

I'm using a 12v 10amp power supply and it cuts out as soon as the heater is wired into the circuit... so I'm thinking that either my power supply isn't delivering the 120 watts it's supposed to or my heater coil is faulty. The resistance across the heater coil is just 2.8 ohms.... which I think means it's drawing 4.38 amps. I'm not confident about my calculations..... Can anyone give me a clue what's going wrong?

[@achievementtv8934]

A new power supply arrived today. Exactly the same spec as the first PSU but from a different supplier. The system now works perfectly.... couldn't be more delighted.

[@vogman]

Thanks for sharing this experience. Hopefully it will help others 👍👍👍

[@craigrivers82]

Don't suppose anyone knows where i can get one that is already made? ( sorry this is NOT in my wheel house )

[@cosmic1969]

During the last 3-4 weeks, Im printing at 11 C degrees, while I never had any failures, I do see some horizontal line structure and a bit of warping on some parts. Do you think this is due to the temperature or orientation?

[@vogman]

It certainly could be. The resin actually thickens as it cools. Shake the bottle when it's stood at 11C for an hour. Then place it standing in a bowl of warm water for half an hour and shake again. You should hear and feel a massive difference. Resin printing requires very thin layers, so nicely fluid resin is a must 😁

[@MrVulcanator]

Where can I find that demon miniature STL you showed at the beginning of the video?

[@vogman]

That was created by our talented friends at archvillaingames.com 😁

[@eduardovieira1919]

Tip: DO NOT say "easy wiring" while showing a pic of a lot of wires entangled in a small space! Otherwise, waiting for your review of the 8k Mini, and if i may ask you, a comparson with the DLP... Both (any, actually) are expensive where i am, and the thing is: would i have to use a super-duper resin with the 8k? The super duper resin would give better results with the 8k or the DLP? How both of them perform with a "basic" resin for the not-accurate-needed prints between those lovely hi-definition prints... And... Great vid, as always! Edu

[@vogman]

The wiring is simple, but as I said, FIDDLY. Wedging everything into a tiny space is a pain. As for the 8K... fingers crossed 😁😁😁

[@karnov9248]

I'm holding off on a resin printer until the chitubox lockdown situation is resolved and the 8k vs dlp quality war has a winner, but I want to hit the ground running once i do. This is exactly what i need to know about creating a print space in my cold basement. Anyone have recommendations on a fume venting system? Can a window vent system work well connected directly to the printer or is an enclosure better? Would that interfere with the heater? Maybe a fume hood for the print processing area?

[@vogman]

Knowledge is NEVER wasted effort Natalie 😁😁😁👍👍👍 As for venting, I always recommend an open window, just in case, though I don't personally notice the smell. With an enclosure heater like this, the window wouldn't make a lot of difference to the inside temperature.

[@chrisyoung6728]

Anyone build this unit and have the unit cut off when the heater cuts on? Any thoughts on why this is happening please?

[@vogman]

Hi Chris. It could be a variety of things, but if it seems to be working then doesn't, the it could be a faulty controller, or maybe the way you've programmed it, or maybe even the heater itself is causing the controller to cease. These are, unfortunately, cheap components... it's the downside of DIY I guess.

[@chrisyoung6728]

@@vogman Thanks. I notice that when I disconnect the heater and allow it to cycle on to heating it remains in heating mode. Perhaps a faulty heater...?

[@metalmeltingmark4655]

Thanks for sharing

[@vogman]

Thanks for watching!

[@johnmiller1281]

I am running into an issue where the adapter plug gets very hot when plugged in. How do I solve this?

[@vogman]

The adapter will likely get warm as it's dealing with 10 Amps of current, which is a fair amount. Make sure it's NOT covered by anything. If it gets excessively hot, there might be a problem with something...

[@johnmiller1281]

@@vogman Yeah I think the heater I was shipped may be more watts. I ordered 100 but may have gotten 150. 150 watts would exceed the 10amp power supply. The plug got so hot it started melting the plastic so I unplugged it obviously. I have tried a different plug and AC adapter but had the same results. It seems the heater is pulling too much power and over heating the adapter.

[@johnmiller1281]

Looks like it might have been the screw adapter. Bought new ones and they are not overheating.

[@spongeknock7387]

@@johnmiller1281 what type and where did you buy the new version? Cheers

[@IcsulX]

Did you tip the creator?

[@vogman]

Of course. He deserves it after all the work he did 😁

[@stevec2796]

What gauge wire did you use in constructing this?

[@vogman]

I used the wire that came with the heater 😁

[@YarHarFD]

I just run my dehumidifier since my printer is in my garage. Keeps things warm and dry

[@vogman]

At least it will be comfortable to work in there 😁

[@grendelprime166]

I love this video. If anyone makes a USA shopping list, let me know. I'm having trouble locating the specific Controller.

[@vogman]

I just Google searched. Most of the parts came from eBay or China. It's worth the wait 😁

[@vsgaming9176]

Can I use a 12v 150w heater?

[@vogman]

If you do that you're increasing the current demand. You'd need a more capable transformer. Generally it's best to stick to the specs given by the creator 😁

[@althesilly]

I will never get tired of winter is coming jokes.

[@vogman]

Me too 😁

[@memocontini]

obrigado !

[@vogman]

😁

[@patprop74]

Sure that is a reasonable solution, Or you can have your printers in a cabinet, and just use 50watt to 70watt outdoor flood light which cost around 8 dollars, and not only will it keep a large size cabinet at a toasty 25C, you'll be able to keep not one but multiple printers and accessories like resins and filaments... at room temp with no additional supplies, Nonetheless it is a nice little project.

[@vogman]

That is an excellent suggestion. Unfortunately I don't have space for a cabinet 😁

[@andyspoo2]

There is one fundamental flaw with that design. There is no over-heat safety cut-out should the relay fail on the controller. I've seen pictures where that type of heater has caught fire. You need an in-line thermal fuse or trip for safety.

[@vogman]

My understanding is such matters are covered by the PTC heater itself. However, as a safety feature, this could well be a useful extra 😁

[@thetimo0060]

I just bought stuff to make one two days ago, this is weird

[@vogman]

Yes Tim, we're all noticing the drop in quality with the cooler weather. Good thinking buddy 😁😁😁👍👍👍

[@markwilliams5654]

I use the heated bed from a reprap printer controlled by marlin firmware which is all open source why would you buy anything

[@vogman]

If you can make something safe, simple and cheap, then go for it 😁😁😁

[@David-ey9jg]

Use a USB powered heater. Instead of the carbon filter.