Making a Composite Mould for a Carbon Fibre Part from a 3D Printed Pattern

[@thesighbored]

The part is so light it was practically floating when he released it in the air. Nice!

[@everythingexplained]

Best kind of ads, the ones you're really eager to watch! And with the added bonus of learning something cool!

[@easycompositestv]

Haha, thanks Øyvind, we do our best to keep the content interesting for everyone, whether they're using our products or not. But, of course, we have to pay for this production somehow :)

[@pd7439]

You @@easycompositestv g

[@jellomello124]

this is currently my favorite youtube channel. i don't even work with composites... yet.

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks Jellomello; you've got great taste ; )

[@TheGodMob]

I cannot believe that right after I get into 3D printing and carbon fibre laminating, incredible content like this comes out! AMAZING WORK!

[@dynamism6990]

The planets are aligning!

[@KnightDriveTV]

The timing of this video seems like it's meant for me! I've started manufacturing headlight kits, as seen on my channel, for Corvettes. I'm going to be doing composite parts next and wanted to incorporate printing heavily, into the process. This is what I needed to see...all good in theory, but perfect for what I'm doing. Man....good stuff!

[@easycompositestv]

That's great to hear, we hope this helps your project. Look forward to seeing how you get on on your channel :)

[@omegaelixir]

I was waiting for this video for SOOOOO LONG

[@easycompositestv]

Well, I hope you enjoy it. If you're following the process for real then don't forget to watch the full length version on our website.

[@Simplyb334]

We need more !! 🤍🤍

[@omegaelixir]

@@easycompositestv Ya damn right I enjoyed it!

[@الوفيالوفي-ظ8ذ]

Me too

[@EnesMAkyol]

me too :)

[@swolebro]

I like how you printed the mold vertically, in what might be considered the non-obvious way, minimizing the presentation of the layer lines along those gentle slopes. Very clever. Dammit, all your videos are amazing.

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks a lot. RE the print orientation; correct, the contour steps are less pronounced in the vertical orientation and for FDM, print speed is pretty-much unaffected by the orientation. Glad you're enjoying the content :)

[@MrDrago1954]

I had a 3D printed plug made for my Racing Model Sailboats. Approximately 1 meter long. It was a precision mold that was lazer checked and reworked until it was close to perfect. Then I had a mold made. The mold is perfect as well. This process really worked well for me.

[@MatthieuLibeert]

great video once again! Worst thing of watching this video is that I now have an urge to buy a 3D printer :D

[@dynamism6990]

We know the feeling :) Just let us know if you need any help.

[@easycompositestv]

Matthieu, always a pleasure to get your feedback; I would think with your product design background this would be right up your street! Maybe Dynamism will check out your KZbin channel and following ;)

[@stevesmith8588]

I haven't seen your channel for a bit. Your videos are as high quality as I remember. Really incredible productions.

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks Steve, we appreciate it.

[@b.w.oostdam8875]

Lots of thanks for this very infotaining video! Immediately I realized the mistakes I made. Thank you. Keep up this fantastic work.

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks for you feedback, glad this was helpful.

[@things3dprintedtm598]

Man this opens up so many possibilities

[@DarkAeroInc]

Very well put together overview! You guys do fantastic work!

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks DarkAero; we respect your work and it's great to get kudos from you.

[@lars_sax1728]

This channel is pure gold, very professional.

[@MR94JOKER]

glad youtube has some valuable stuff like this.. and great people who are willing to share their knowledge (even if they are promoting certain products)

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Loui, thanks for your feedback. Of course it's the sales of our products that allow us to make these videos but we always try to provide general information that's useful to everyone. Often in composites the real trick is to make sure you're using the right products and know that they will work. Our products are definitely not the only products that *could* work but they are the only one's that we can guarantee *will* work, and that can be invaluable : )

[@acintron3Dmfg]

Finally!!! Like always, straight forward, simple and very clear.

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks Andres; yes, this one's been in the pipeline for a while, it's good to get it out there.

[@leoarc1061]

Easy Composites is doing a great job with these videos. I prefer buying EC simply because I know they will perform as shown in the videos. There are cheaper options but they don't have the tutorials. Thank you for producing these extensive and comprehensible videos. The cost is not as low as I'd like, but we are dealing with a relatively new technology, and with the videos i make less mistakes, thus the cost goes down. Best regards, Leo

[@ReclusiveRychu]

OF COURSE!! RESIN! That was the key I needed!!!

[@easycompositestv]

Haha, great, yes, I hope this helps.

[@fnitschke21]

Nice video, well done. Right now I make a carbon fiber part (end cover for the muffler) for my KTM motorbike. My son have a own 3D printer and have made with him a negativ mould for me. After preparation this mould (sanding and filling) we will make the end cover with 5 layers of carbon fibre. New for me is the posibility to coating the mold / pattern directly with resin for a even surface. I will test this in future on a new project. Thanks for this information.

[@easycompositestv]

Our pleasure. Your project sounds much more like the next 3D printing video we're doing where we use the 3D print as the female mould (not as a male pattern).

[@andrey.p]

I was waiting for you to cover this topic. Presentation is great as ever. Thank you so much!

[@easycompositestv]

You're very welcome Andrew, glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching.

[@BK42Cycles]

Excellent work! I'm learning a lot from you! I hope soon I'll be able to make my first carbon fiber piece! cheers

[@easycompositestv]

You’re welcome, glad to hear our content is useful to you. Good luck with your first project.

[@BK42Cycles]

@@easycompositestv Your content is awesome! Very well done and educative! Thank you sir ;)

[@TheMakerStop]

I'm in love with this. I had created silicone rubber molds with 3d printed parts before. I will now try brushing the parts with epoxy before molding.Thanks for sharing.

[@easycompositestv]

You're very welcome. Certainly it can be a very useful process to take silicone moulds off of 3D printed parts in order to duplicate parts as resin castings and in fact using a coating epoxy like XCR can be a good way to improve the finish before taking the silicone mould off.

[@jeremywilds3384]

Where online are you getting your 3D print files to make the molds

[@wangzongbao8160]

Good way to make quick prototype without high precision.

[@davidg.3226]

This content is gold.

[@somannacs]

One more amazing knowledge sharing video. I watched on easycomposite website. Direct purchasing option to the materials used is much appreciated. Thanks!!

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks Soma, it's really good to get your feedback that this way of publishing was helpful to you. Thanks again.

[@diavolorosso69]

Thanks for this- exactly the info I need for a new project at my work making replacement radomes for a customer!

[@comptegoogle511]

The first time I've got interested in 3D printing was in 2003. Back then only the big R&D labs at Pratt and Witney or Textron could justify the investment to have one. Fifteen years later we can see that giant steps have been done to make it available for the masses.

[@jeremywilds3384]

Where can I get the files for the 3D print modes

[@nobocks]

"i dont know shit about 3d printing"... Yeah but your post process is smooth has ice and there is no video about that on 3d printing channel. Good job !

[@johnprehz6177]

Better tutorial, impossible! Thank you for your time!.

[@easycompositestv]

Glad you enjoyed John!

[@daniels7660]

Great Video :) A video of building larger hollow parts (link a fuel tank or similar) would be nice

[@tobybackspace3042]

You guys are great

[@capnthepeafarmer]

This is a great overview of the process, great primer!

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. Don't forget the extra detail version is available on our website if you want it.

[@brandenbc31]

I print with ABS plastic and put the print in an acetone vapor bath to give the printed mold a smooth glass like finish.

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Branden, yes, perhaps we should have mentioned acetone vapour, it's certainly an option for improving the surface of ABS prints but not really the right solution for this type of process (part distortion, how to get a release etc.). Also, heating acetone is not really a process that we'd encourage a casual viewer to engage in!

[@dynamism6990]

An alternative to the ABS here, with less volatile solvents, would be to use something like PolySmooth.

[@ponakka]

I have been just looking at these videos and every time i'm wishing that i could figure out some project that i could buy that stuff. Also these videos help to lower the blood pressure, because of their calm pace. =D

[@easycompositestv]

Haha Ponakka, thanks for the feedback. We hope you think of the right project.

[@Weldinator]

If the print material is ABS then you can chemically smooth it with acetone. If you want to get real fancy you can make a vapor smooth chamber by heating acetone in a big pot. This is how the Stratasys vapor smooth station works, but they use different chemicals. I'm sure there are tons of videos of DIY setups on youtube. But it works really well and gives a great surface finish.

[@Danielo515]

I was impressed already just at the first finish you got, so imagine how I was at the end

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks Daniel, it's great that you appreciate the craft.

[@Vikingman2024]

Excellent video! Thanks!

[@mahyarkaramali1971]

perfect video as always

[@easycompositestv]

Glad you enjoyed Mahyar!

[@ericwessel6511]

Great video! This makes me want to go out and try this process.

[@dalecollison791]

This is something a lot of us can do. Can you briefly cover how you would make the the 3d printed mold of a pipe and release it? Thanks.

[@havasss]

Use soluble materials like PVA or HIPS.

[@dynamism6990]

We're working with Easy Composites on this very thing. More tutorials to come :)

[@dalecollison791]

@@dynamism6990 unreal!!!!!! Looking forward to that!!???

[@mckenziekeith7434]

If you layup carbon fiber around a solid bar, I imagine it would be pretty tricky to remove the finished part from the bar.

[@bernienufc3166]

brilliant timing thank you

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks Bernie, glad you enjoyed it.

[@bernienufc3166]

@@easycompositestv The one on your main site was very impressive, thanks again

[@tyapka]

What a treat. As usual, first like then watch.

[@rolfnilsen6385]

Very interesting! And the 3D printed mould video will be even more interesting .-)

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Rolf, We're filming it at the moment, it's a very quick process and so should be quicker to put together than most of our tutorials (including this one), stay tuned over the next couple of weeks :)

[@scottfisher1714]

Will the 3D printed mold simply be a cavity vs the core you built to cast from?

[@GreenMntMoto]

So cool - you guys rock

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks Nate, glad you like it.

[@MichaelRogersJesusrules]

Always love your videos, keep up the cool vids. God bless...nice finish way cool!

[@easycompositestv]

Thank you Michael, appreciate the comments. We'll keep them coming : )

[@babcockcopper]

Excellent information

[@dtrimm1]

great video, thanks for making it!

[@smilerhappy]

great video, would be great to see videos on how to create parts without ovens or vacuum

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Nick, for sure. We're already filming the next part in this '3D printing in composites' series which is where we 3D print the mould directly, wax it up and hand laminate a carbon fibre part into it, all in, using zero fancy kit, vacuums or ovens. Whole process, a few hours from start to finish. I've rather spoilt it a bit now but look out for that video in the next week or two.

[@smilerhappy]

@@easycompositestv great thanks looking forward to seeing it.

[@stevesloan6775]

Great video! 🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🍀🍀😎

[@bowlofdick5]

The quality of the content throughout this entire channel is extremely high.

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks a lot, we really work hard to achieve this.

[@kopparsulfat]

love it. you make it look so eazy.

[@easycompositestv]

Glad you enjoyed the video!

[@Chocolate9897]

yall earned my respect..

[@AlenHR]

Thanks for every tutorial video. They are all amazing. Hope to see your EU warehouse soon.

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks for the really kind comment, we'll be sure to make more videos soon!

[@Will-No-Co]

You guys are amazing. That part popped out with ease. Duh. 😳 I guess that’s why it’s called easy-lease.

[@easycompositestv]

Hey Will-Co, yes, that's about the idea!

[@StickerBao]

I love carbon parts :)

[@hiddenchambers2922]

AMAZING VIDEO!!! THANK YOU FOR SHARING!!!

[@easycompositestv]

You're very welcome, thanks for watching.

[@kbillan1]

Your videos are wonderful

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks, glad you're enjoying them.

[@henricoderre]

The finished product is superior in quality and the pattern obtained is interesting, but the costs for this method add up quickly when you consider all of the products necessary to complete the process.

[@easycompositestv]

Its benefits add up if you already have access to 3D printing (yours or a friends) as a lot of the cost would be paying to have a model board or foam CNC cut as an outsourced project.

[@HolaACchillin]

Very cool!

[@Pushyhog]

great channel

[@100amps]

Such cool videos for us DIY'ers/makers! For my projects, (guitar making) I'd love to see a video on how to make some small CF rods, solid, square or rectangular, maybe 1/4" square section and 18" long, for use as braces and stiffeners. Just mentioning it in case you're looking for video ideas. 😎

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks for the comment and suggestion. Quite honestly, for carbon fibre rods you're much better off just buying them. They're cheap to buy and readily available in a huge range of shapes and sizes. In industry they're made on a full-scale pultrusion line. This is just not something you can replicate at home. You'd be able to bodge something by pulling tow through a resin bath and then trying to shape the section you need but there's not really much point. If you've not done so already, check our website for a huge range of carbon fibre pultrusions.

[@100amps]

@@easycompositestv, Thanks for the reply. I didn't realize rods would be tougher to DIY. I guess if I want to DIY something, I can experiment with L or U section molded braces instead. In fact, there might be (acoustic) advantages to doing that.

[@hex1795]

Have you considered making a tutorial for how to make 3d printed molds for forged carbon fibre production?

[@easycompositestv]

We cover the basics of design of the mould in the forged carbon video itself but mostly it is the CAD work which varies depending on the package you use.

[@spqba747]

Why not to use SLA printer and leave behind all the hustle of sanding and preparing that FDM product? Naturally with SLA there will be some sanding but with 0.0025mm resolution much less of it! I know the size of the mould could be a reason but otherwise I would like to hear your opinion!

[@dynamism6990]

FDM printers are a fair bit cheaper and generally offer larger build volumes. SLA 3D printers will work here for smaller applications unless you're lucky enough to have the new Formlabs 3L. That said, there will be less post-processing like you mentioned.

[@stevesloan6775]

ordered imperfections. 2021.. real time moulding

[@aravindcooper224]

I like ur speech i love u

[@mwinner101]

It would be cool to see the finished carbon parts fitted to the drone. Great video tho. 👍

[@easycompositestv]

Yes, we did want to do that but production time was already way over on this video after we had a million problems filming the time lapses! If anyone wants a pile of random drone she’ll patterns you know who to ask. We’ll try to get some shots or video of it to share.

[@ermism371]

Any Video with conformal cooling? Great content!

[@theclephane2914]

Thank you!

[@fraidoonsinjawi8983]

thanks very good

[@easycompositestv]

Appreciate the kind comment!

[@ghosthacks4016]

This content i really looking for 🔥

[@KurtAndresKA]

I never left my grandma alone that fast.

[@wiktor3453]

Really good presentation. You made me think about making carbon fiber parts for my RC airship project. What is easier for a beginner, prepreg or manually coating with resin? Is liquid resin more dangerous ?

[@mlinecomposites1]

To be honest all ways are not as easy as it looks. Less expensive way is wet lay or vacuum bagging. Second way would be resin infusion. Third would be most expensive is prepreg. I hope that helps but to help answer your questions I would say prepeg is your easiest

[@easycompositestv]

No real safety worries around any of these materials as long as you follow correct basic precautions. As for ease of use, you’d be surprised how good the results from a basic hand layup can be, especially if you’re willing to do a little bit of tidying up afterwards. Infusion is probably the trickiest to learn but it’s the one many people go for because the kit you need is fairly modest. Prepreg is, in many ways, easier to work with but does require the oven to cure which can be an obstacle. We can support you through whichever process you choose though and make sure you crack it!

[@MrCurt500]

I already made some complex parts with these technique for the hydrofoils system of the solarboat of my university, but great to see you covering this topic at your chanel. You really doing great work with the videos series, our next boat hull we are probably manufacture according to your dark ice series. How are the current delivery possiblitys from GB to Germany, are there any problems due to the Brexit?

[@easycompositestv]

Deliveries to most of Europe are still going ahead, albeit slowed slightly by COVID and implementation of the new trade system.

[@papasgio]

This video is just what i needed to cover a lot of the basics. It unlocked to me many different ways to produce my items. Could you please tell me the name of the microscope you are using to observe your prints and details. Much obliged thank you in advance.

[@jasonsamp1]

I believe your videos are the absolute best for all newbies like me. I have watched every single one at least once. I want to make a coolant reservoir tank out of cf for AutoX my car (1983 Porsche 944). Wondering if you have done any, or can share some tips or if it is not something you would recommend? Thanks

[@easycompositestv]

Not something we have tried, but you will need a high temp resin as coolant can sometimes get to 120C plus and design it strong enough to take the pressure as coolant systems are pressurised. Generally if an OEM plastic tank can be used, it would be much easier and not much heavier.

[@SLU2MOVIES]

MY GOOD. JUST WHAT I NEEDED :O

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks Michal, that's good to hear. Look forward to seeing how you get on.

[@SLU2MOVIES]

@@easycompositestv No way you wouldn't want to see it. It will be the most cheap and crude way possible 🤣 I'm a poor student, doing a custom diffuser 🤣 3d printed with a thin layer of filament in parts glueded together and reinforced with putty and fibreglass once the fitment is perfect. Than time for a mold. I've found your videos very informative and useful, it's also quite entertaining, it isn't boring 😂. The usage of a vacuum cleaner and epoxy for smoothing blow my mind away and I won't have to worry about a vacuum pomp. I found also thanks to you guys there is a material called diolen, and it looks like carbon 😁 I'm thinking of using it instead of fibreglass, what do you guys think, diolen vs fiberglass? Or both 🤔 top layer for looks

[@JGD444]

Awesome video! thanks!!!!

[@easycompositestv]

No problem Javier, glad you enjoyed it.

[@landonpal2593]

Found this video on the quest to make ceramic molds from a 3d printer. Pretty Familiar with the mold making part itself. Only hitch was the lattice surfaces on 3d printed objects making mechanical locks. The epoxy coating method might solve that issue! Only I wonder how it might react with pottery plaster.🤔 Thank you sir!

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Landon Pal, epoxy is a very tough and resistant surface. There would be no problem at all using some kind of ceramic material on the epoxy surface. I'm not sure what material you're planning to use but the use of some release agent known to work with your ceramic material would be recommended.

[@landonpal2593]

@@easycompositestv Well the steps are similar to your method . 3D printed object - mold made from object - ceramic object made from mold. The mold for ceramics is plaster (no release agent needed). That is the part I'm curious about, is how that plaster might react with or absorb anything that its being poured over to make a mold. Strange things leeching into the clay can ruin the finished product. Ill have to do a little research on the epoxy, could be no worry at all.

[@mikalsvendsen6761]

Great videos, very informative. I would like to make a request.. I've been wanting to create my own recurve bow (as in bow and arrow) FYI I have very limited knowledge about the tech used in modern bows. Now I'm mostly thinking about the limbs, I've read that carbon fiber limbs are some of the best. But carbon fiber doesn't seem very elastic at all, take for example the rollwrapped video where you test its strength. Would you like to make a video to demonstrate some "spring bow" properties of carbon fiber and maybe other materials? I dare you to make a recurve bow

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Mikal, thanks for the comments and suggestion. Looking at the stiffness and strength of carbon fibre can deceptive and create the impression that it couldn't bend or flex. In fact, this isn't the case at all; it's all about the geometry of how you use it. We'll take it on board and think about a future video which shows some structural applications for carbon fibre where the end product is loaded and flexed.

[@mikalsvendsen6761]

@@easycompositestv Awesome! Thank you for answering

[@nicolascaram10]

Is there any alternative for the XCR epoxy coating resin? Does any kind of Epoxy Resin work aswell?

[@easycompositestv]

Not that we stock. The XCR is the main epoxy coating resin in our range.

[@jameslatham3521]

I like the long form videos better.

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks for the feedback James. Well, we hope to have both sides covered by publishing the longer form video on our website (for those that want that granular detail) and then the shorter form on KZbin where a lot of viewers are watching 'out of interest' and not necessarily needing, or wanted, specific advice on changing grits or polishing speeds. But, we're interested in all feedback and could revert to always the longer edit on KZbin if the feedback suggests this would be better.

[@gauravkumarthakur6901]

Is it important to use Gel coat we can not apply normal resin...??

[@peacefulcyclist7944]

finally! cheers!

[@blakanal7222]

You say you can get the mould from the 3d printed part by using the unimold system. Are you sure the arising temperature of 50-60°C wouldn't destroy the PLA 3D print?

[@easycompositestv]

The heat given off during the cure of the Uni-mould and our epoxy mould systems rarely get that high for long. Certainly we have not seen any deformation during experimentation.

[@blakanal7222]

@@easycompositestv Thank you!

[@davidg.3226]

What would we have to change in the process in the case that we have no oven to cure the mould?. Thank you.

[@the-yz-546]

Can I use Acetone Vapor Bath instead of sanding after printing?

[@easycompositestv]

With some plastic materials yes. Remember the plastic will still need a key for the resin to adhere.

[@johnnymckissick2735]

Would you do a video on parts that need to bee smooth on both sides? The peel ply always leaves a texture. Thank you!!!

[@easycompositestv]

Double A sided parts can be tricky, you have a couple of options. 1) you can refinish the inside afterwards by adding resin over the peel-ply finish and then flatting in back 2) you can use a matched tool process (inside and outside mould pressed together). Our next video will be about matched-tool compression moulding so watch out for that in a week or two 👍

[@JShel14]

How long would a mold like this last? Or, should I say how many runs do you think you'd have gotten from these molds?

[@easycompositestv]

The high temperature tooling could last well over 100 pulls depending on shape, care demoulding and a little bit of maintenance.

[@Nardypants]

Real cool. I'm doing this right now, you guys really help with the tips.

[@easycompositestv]

Great to hear, we'd love to know how you get on.

[@stigastondogg730]

Hello Easy Composites. Can you maybe show a video on how to make a mold to replicate a very rusty item? I’m restoring an old wheelbarrow and the tub is badly rusted, holes in places, so I want to make a carbon fibre version instead. The metal is very thin so sanding is not ideal, but I don’t know how to protect it or treat the surface so that the fibreglass mold will not adhere to the rust or cause more damage. Thank you 😊

[@easycompositestv]

if the surface is too weak to mould from, then you would need to make a pattern.

[@stigastondogg730]

@@easycompositestv ah right, thank you. I’ll look at those vids then

[@Fortenurg]

Been doing this since 2015

[@henrycollins2478]

Can you make a video about making window louvers?

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Henry that might be a bit too specific for a future video but if you’re talking about making flat sections of curved window blinds then our tutorial on making carbon fibre sheet should be of interest.

[@jonjonsson6323]

I can understand rhe need of such in an industrial production..but i would just have used a vacuum bench and a hot owen and saved a day, then made a backing of plaster and band aid you buy for healing broken bones.. printer is basically the required part here and that i agree so i would use cheap pla, a vacuum forming table and a backing material thats cheap but that works for us home makers. A company has no such problems as resin smells etc so that seems feasible to be able to bou a product kit

[@kevinm3751]

Something that would be awesome to know how to do would be how to make a part like that of the XDynamics Evolve 2? Been trying to find details on how to make a fuselage with the tube arms like they did in one part?

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Kevin, looks like it will be a relatively complex multipart mould using tubular bagging film or some kind of bladder to apply pressure inside. It could be possible they have made the legs separately then bonded them into place and finished the join line neatly before lacquering so it looks seamless from a distance.

[@kevinm3751]

@@easycompositestv Thanks for the insight on this. Yea I have seen the quad up close and it does appear to be a single layout. I wonder if there is a method to align the fiber when doing a bond between two different parts? That would be a good thing to know how to do if its possible. I am sure it is but seems it would be hit and miss to get a good alignment that is even close. I can see a lot of potential in knowing how to do something complex like this. The number of projects it could be used for is huge!

[@crazystuffproduction]

Just gota ender 3 v2, for sure want to fine tune it but i want to make some drone parts!

[@noelswedzinski4498]

I wonder if smoothing with acetone would give you a good surface finish for making the mold.

[@easycompositestv]

Acetone vapour can be an option for improving the finish on the 3D print but then that’s still not a good release surface and you would need to coat the print with something that can be reliably released from. In all our testing and experimentation, we couldn’t beat the process shown with the XCR resin for surface finish and release properties.

[@andreasbeier2431]

Finally!!!

[@ThelastDK]

How would you make a mold for a bigger part ? Let's say 5 metres long ? And if I use the infusion process for a part that big would the infusion kit you offer still do the job? How is the strength/weight difference between a oven cured part and an infusion part in your experience? Sorry for all the questions I have been a fan for a long time and i am very interested in the whole process.

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Daniel, so, when you're asking about a 5 metre long part I assume you're not talking about using a 3D print process, as shown in this video! Something that size would most likely use a hand-build process more like what you see in Part 1 of our Dark Ice series, where we make the pattern for the sledge. In terms of how well the infusion would cope over 5 metres, it would be fine but you would need to set it up correct. Watch Part 5 of the Dark Ice series where we infusion the sledge for lots of great information on setting up larger infusions. In terms of how they compare; they're remarkably similar - there's really nothing to distinguish a prepreg part from a resin infused part if they use the same reinforcement. the only obvious difference would be the service temperature of the finished part which would be higher for the prepreg.

[@ThelastDK]

@@easycompositestv thank you :)

[@matthewgross4068]

Amazing video! Question though, How do you account for the dimensional thickness increase caused by the XCR Coating Epoxy layers? It seems not to matter for this part's design, but it seems like it would be problematic for parts that need to fit together closely/securely. Thank you for this great video!!

[@easycompositestv]

For precision parts you may be better off using a different method if the tolerances are that tight. You could modify the print to take into account a typical resin thickness but it would still not be perfect.

[@hunterjames5819]

Do you know about how much we would need to account for?

[@merliq]

Can I use these molds on a thermoforming machine? would it hold the shape?