eBay Turbo Civic EF Build Overview (1989 Honda civic Si eBay turbo)

[@uptownsamcv]

NICE SETUP!! I had a boosted CRX with a T25 and it was really responsive, 10 PSI at 3,000 RPM. one thing I always recommend to people is to run the wastegate hose after the intercooler and before the throttle body, the boost pressure will be way more stable. as for the blow off valve I had mine installed sideways near the firewall so I could hear it really good.

[@gusandcars]

Thank you! I really wish I would have gone t25. I have been looking into some tap options to change the reference location

[@uptownsamcv]

@@gusandcars easiest way without welding will be to drill on the end tank of your intercooler and tap it for a brass fitting. when the time comes to get a blow-off valve use a really thick hose for it, the boost pressure actually pushes the spring inside the blow off valve and helps to seal better under boost..

[@Ismaak5]

You have the wastegate dumping hot exhaust gases in the engine bay next to both your intake and your radiator. I am impressed that this thing works normally. That would normally heat up everything as soon as that gate would open, throwing 900oC at everything around it.

[@gusandcars]

@@Ismaak5 I'm working in it. Have a dump tube but it doesn't fit right - forgot to mention that in the video!

[@ASavage819]

Love this build! Just a clean no bullsh** build👍

[@gusandcars]

Thank you! Exactly what I am going for

[@dionirizarry4349]

Thank you so much, I am currently doing this same build on my 89 Honda Civic EF, I have a ZCngine which is basically a D16A6, I think I have the same exact turbo kit

[@singleCamTrackEF]

Super sick build, I like the deep dive explanation. The turbo + Spec D sounds great Curious to see how this setup will hold up on track

[@gusandcars]

@@singleCamTrackEF thanks! I'm pretty happy with it as well. Need to figure out the wastegate situation before I go too crazy on track 😄

[@GodsGunsGlory777]

Damn. I’m glad I live in a state where we have the 25 year law.

[@Isaac.vwalker]

Love this build

[@Lost10mm.]

Hope you did a mls head gasket and clean out your catch can after a bit. Great job either way.

[@gusandcars]

engine is totally factory straight from the junkyard 🤙. I check the catch can every so often and it doesn't accumulate much

[@Lost10mm.]

@gusandcars that's good some just don't bother, some do it when they change the oil. I'd be thinking about rod's I think that's the main weakness when boosted and rings if you haven't gapped them.

[@DIYKAI]

Good job I'm about to turbo my 91 hatch

[@thedistance8843]

I would remove that plate next to the radiator. Blocking a lot of airflow to the engine bay. Your iat's will be so high. Other than that, it looks great. Try setting your override fan control so the fan kicks on around 180°F on your ecu through HTS. 👍 good luck with it!

[@gusandcars]

Thank you! The theory with the plate is to force more air into the radiator and to stop 'recycling' air that has already entered the engine bay. Not totally sure if it's working... anecdotally it seems to be, but I need to get some measurements to actually see.

[@BB_Detailing_00]

Good imfo in this video. Thanks

[@uptownsamcv]

what kind of cooling fan are you running? I ran a Integra A/C condenser fan and it solved the issue I had when I first started boosting the CRX and it would run hot.

[@tonyd7164]

Instead of just a fan on the radiator make a fan shroud. Im building something similar but with a tucked radiator and folded up an aluminum fan shroud out of a street sign. 3/4 inch gap for the fan and pulls air evenly across 100% of the radiator.

[@frias2287]

🔥🔥🔥

[@camlobesvtec]

So no hondata available for this setup? Is it a 4 speed?

[@gusandcars]

@@camlobesvtec it's a p28 so hondata is possible, I just went with a cheaper alternative. It's an si 5 speed, just have a 4 speed shift knob on it

[@prospectgarage5505]

How’s the spool on that turbo? I accidentally bought the same one I was after a quick spool and more linear torque curve and thought a .48ar would be what I was looking for not a .57 and now I’m worried it’ll spool to late. I think a .48 would be better for you on track aswell.

[@gusandcars]

@@prospectgarage5505 it's not horrible - Starts spooling around 4000. I would definitely get a turbo with a smaller exhaust housing if I could do it again, but it's good enough for now

[@prospectgarage5505]

@@gusandcars sounds scary I’ve got a full point lower in compression 😭 I had a .48 in before hand and saw 4lb by 500 rpm after jabbing the throttle

[@gusandcars]

@@prospectgarage5505 😵 damn! Worth nothing I have a d15b7 and not a d16, so my spool will be worse regardless

[@prospectgarage5505]

@@gusandcars what year b7 honda put a6 springs on a certain year so you could probably rev at 7200 safely

[@alomechanthasinh4079]

Hell yeah I subscribe Honda gang

[@hotside-kei]

Yeahhh back in the day they called felpro gaskets ‘failpro’ for a reason haha

[@BB_Detailing_00]

Back in 80s-90s, they were the gaskets to get (for domestic market)

[@hush22performance1]

I love a SOHC

[@gusandcars]

Thank you! You actually did the windshield on this car last year!

[@eskalionrem5583]

Neither T35 or T25 Turbos fit with bottom mount manifolds very well. Unless you hood dump, exhaust will always be tight, and the wastegate pipe will always be ran in 6 directions. You either have to move the radiator and or cut up the front core support to make it right. Rec getting a top mount exhaust manifold b4 you do anything with the headlight intake. That will fix all future problems when you have to upgrade your intercooler and such. No need for a blov just rtv that aluminum cap off instead. 80 For a oil feed line is crazy expensive btw. Looks like it has its own filter on the line? Would not trust that at all after a few oil changes. Get a oil filter sandwich plate and run both a gauged oil pressure sensor as well as the turbo feed line into it. Scrap that line filter if that's what it is. based on the way the wastegate vacuum line is plumed, it leaking would increase boost pressure btw. I rec running the tapping the compressor wheel and running the wastegate line to that, might fix the over boosting issue. ( Less boost at intake, more at turbo. More boost at watesgate = wastegate opens more = less boost. ) Boost Controller is a game changer for cheap external wastegates though, would recommend. Move that ground wire to the pas side of the car, tucked lol. Also moving the battery to the rear is ez mod, looks better, more functional, no reason not to. I have never had any of those blue felpro gaskets work well, ( both valve cover and oil pan ). Lol you are not running open loop that would be a closed loop setup without o2 control. At 8psi you are def pushing the fuel delivery to its limits. Also you need to weld some an fittings to that valve cover for more crankcase relief. That exhaust wrap on the manifold is not doing anything. The exhaust next to the rad is prob not the overheating issue. 90% sure. On a side note rec hood spacers to let some engine bay heat out.

[@eskalionrem5583]

I have a 4d Ek and I live in the springs. No emissions ( haha )

[@gusandcars]

@@eskalionrem5583 thanks for the rec on the top mount. I'll probably go that route at some point. $80 for feed line, gaskets, fittings, return line, and bung. Like I said, I wouldn't have bought that one looking back. I know it's better to run the wastegate to the compressor so it doesn't see vacuum, but unfortunately my turbo doesn't have a tap currently and I'm lazy - it's something I'm thinking about. My current line definitely is not leaking. I've bench tested the wastegate and it itself seems to be the problem, not the line. No o2 feedback = open loop fueling, btw www.dataforth.com/closed-loop-vs-open-loop-control#:~:text=Control%20operations%20can%20be%20either,effect%20on%20the%20control%20action.

[@eskalionrem5583]

​@@gusandcarsYeah those cheap wastegates are rough might be boost creep too. My 15Ib spring opens too early and creeps up to 16-17. I just put a boost controller in and tunned accordingly. Day and night for spool times. At least it was a usable kit. Everything I bought from ebay I had to scrap because it did not work. Common misconception on tunning. If you have fuel prime pulse, zero demand fuel amount, fuel cranking, post start, or transient throttle, or any corrections it is closed without 02 control. Idk any car with efi that does not have parameters built with the ev tables. Some of those settings run in the background because they are analog/relay driven like the ob2 alternators or vtech for instance.

[@edwardsoares3838]

In the springs also with an 89 Civic DX (JDM D15B / Y7 head.) with very similar setup and can barely keep it up to temp without fan even on, so as said it shouldn’t be the turbo next to the radiator making you run hot (was my fear also during build). Full tune and custom harness with microsquirt. I too may go to a smaller turbo for more street strip than just strip. I had WG creep/leak and finally purchased an expensive turbo smart WG to resolve those issue. I am plumbed at turbo.

[@eskalionrem5583]

@@edwardsoares3838 You never want the exhaust/turbo close to anything. The way I got around it was a chase bay tucked radiator ( and I can only run one fan ). On a warm day 80-90F my coolant temp at the thermostat is 140, 190-200 at the head. In the winter my running temps get as low as 80 at the thermostat, but still 190 at the head. One issue might be your thermostat. See if it opens at oem operating temp / 180-190. Also. The coolant lines that run from head, to throttle body / IAC, then water pump help with operating temps bc they bypass the radiator and thermostat. Most people delete / plug these lines ( idk if you did ). I ran them through my turbo instead.

[@matthewsanchez956]

Build a d16y8 or d16z6 that motor is not going to last

[@BETTALIFE101]

Got to quit it with the eBay thing. Reputable brands use eBay just to sell products like Amazon. You don’t call it an Amazon turbo when you buy it on the site do you?

[@gusandcars]

I agree! However, when the company 'turbone' only exists on eBay, I think it is reasonable to refer to it as an 'eBay turbo'😆