ECS Tuning: VW MKV Rear Brakes Pad and Rotor DIY

[@hansschweikert9153]

Very nicely done! Your clarity of sound, proper lighting and attention to detail are a new benchmark. Thank you.

[@myfastgti07]

God Almighty! That M14 Triple Square was a mission to find at my local auto stores. I found one at NAPA. For those doing the Brakes I HIGHLY recommend getting the M14 socket way before ordering the Pads and Rotors

[@Tito8149]

myfastgti07 I had to put everything back once I got to that part got a m14mm socket but it only goes half way in it's a 1/2 inch ??? Any suggestion

[@myfastgti07]

It's not a 14mm. You need the M14 Triple square.

[@Tito8149]

myfastgti07 I got the brake calipers tool and everything else I got the a M14 star socket that's what it says is it still the wrong one

[@myfastgti07]

Send me your email and I'll send you a picture of the socket I have.

[@myfastgti07]

[e-mail]

[@squarrl]

Guys have the most professional and correct walkthroughs on youtube.

[@pchou]

can you guys also make one for front brake and rotor DIY? I know there are others already out there but video you guys make are always very professional.

[@douga874]

For anyone reading this: The HUSKY 15mm wrench WILL NOT FIT, it's to wide. But a stubby husky 15mm will. This guy also does a good job of pointing out the rear piston tool. Many of the other videos just say brake piston tool...like a C-clamp...which won't work and will ensure you mess up your piston.

[@Subdubbin]

Thank you for saying the triple square size correctly. everyone always says 14mm instead of 14m.

[@mfletcherg122]

Use a impact gun if you got one. If not as @ECSTuningMedia said, use a breaker bar if that still isn't enough, put a pipe on the breaker bar to extend it giving you more torque. Also if you use penetrating oil, be sure to rinse it all off with brake clean prior to installing new brake parts.

[@BigRyGuy04]

it's basically the same. Except you won't need the caliper piston tool they show on here because it doesn't need to be twisted while being compressed like the rear does. But you will need something to compress the piston back in. (Many parts stores sell tools for that for cheap) I'm sure there's a video you can find here on youtube on how to do it.

[@Bobbleheadshesaid]

Must be nice to have a lift !! Great video thanks for the excellent info .!! 10/10.

[@BORICUACHANNEL]

I Love You Guys you always make my day with MKV videos. Thanks

[@Themayseffect]

Gotta love that east coast rusting.

[@Jagshemasher]

The long caliper bolts can be tough to get out - one of them on our car had seized in and the head sheared off when I tried to undo it. I then had to remove the whole spindle to drill it out the bolts which added a lot of time to the job. I would strongly recommend coating them with copper anti-seize grease on reassembly.

[@lukew2194]

Are you taking about the bolts that hold the caliper to the carrier or the carrier bolts?

[@Jagshemasher]

@@lukew2194 the carrier bolts - that hold the carrier to the spindle - they have triple square socket ends and are about 3" long. They had completely seized in the spindle. Neither heat nor WD40 loosened them so I drilled them out and then used a tap to clean up the threads in the hole. PITA. The bolts that hold the caliper to the carrier come out easily.

[@danielabrahams4061]

Really great guide. But, my Haynes manual (I am from the UK) lists the torque spec for rear brake caliper mounting bolts as 48 lbf ft (65 Nm) with no additional 90 degree turn. Also you didn't mention the torque for glide pins which I have down as 26 lbf ft (35 Nm)

[@TheTransporter100]

Are you supposed to replace the caliper frame bolts with new ones??

[@2StealthGTi]

Very good and informative video. Wish I would have seen this version before I started because I bought everything but that 14mm triple squared bit (like an allen key).. got it in town but wasted hours looking around (its not at O'Reiliys or Auto Zone) but essential since, as already mentioned, those 2x 14mm bolts are a sunofaB*** to get off. 3 of 4 with a pipe extension, the other with some PB penetrating spray help.

[@MrJag83aa]

Great job going to this on my 2008 Jetta 2.5, rear brakes from ECS Thanks great info! Know it will help a lot

[@armandosanchez9357]

No savia como cambiar las pastillas pero este video me sirvió de mucha ayuda gracias

[@rootsdat]

Great help. Just did my first brake job, only to find out i have a leaky caliper :(

[@Rans3sc]

Thanks for the video! Very helpful, simple and easy to follow.

[@doitle]

I don't think I saw in this video but did he take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir? I've often seen that suggested when pushing the brake pistons back in.

[@markgolden1310]

Did you forget the copper ease or just too tight?

[@kam2913]

Great video! Any chance for a front brake replacement video?

[@schneidp20]

This video is Great. It prep'ed me to get the right tools before I started. QUESTION: The rotor in the video looks like all my rotors ... fractures all over the place. Is that normal?

[@ecstuning]

Yep, totally normal! This is called 'Crazing', and is a result of your brakes getting good and hot. The cracks shouldn't be more than a few microns deep- brake dust gets in them and makes them look a bit more pronounced than they actually are. If you're getting significant cracking, or anything deeper than that, it's time to replace!

[@schneidp20]

Thanks for the insight! The crazing was much more pronounced than your rotors. Not knowing any better, I swapped them all out. At 110K miles, probably not a bad thing to do anyway. Thanks again for the great video!

[@zulualpha4603]

Make sure you open up the brake fluid reservoir before you push back the calliper

[@sallen135]

Is it recommended / is it easier to press in the piston if the break fluid reservoir cap is removed to decrease the pressure?

[@ecstuning]

If you're pushing the piston back in, the fluid level in your reservoir will rise.Removing the reservoir cap will relieve air pressure caused by the rise in fluid. Just make sure it doesn't overflow!

[@allukenuppercut9851]

All the thumbs down are from mechanics who don't want you doing your own work! LOL!

[@Natamel16]

Query regarding the 'brake dust shield' or also known as 'brake backing plate' - can the brake dust shield be removed at around 5:46 by undoing the 2 (minimum) fasteners ? Mine currently keeps rattling so needs replacing ASAP. Can't seem to find a video that explains how to remove and replace the brake dust shield, rather have a go at attempting the repair myself before taking to the garage. Thanks in advance!

[@scotchegg6422]

Torque wrench on the wheel bolts but not on the caliper / carrier?

[@soigne95035]

What is the torque spec for the 13mm caliper slide pin bolts? It doesn't look like much force was required to remove them, so I would guess it's not very high. Thanks, and great video!

[@TheTransporter100]

22ft/lbs in the front and 26 in the rear

[@progmanmike]

Usually you have to break them first

[@SonderMann1982]

Great video and perfect technician. Thumb up!

[@kryznic1]

Excellent video. ECS is a one stop shop. Just don't by the V-Check Pro code reader, cuz they are crap and they won't replace it when it breaks. ;o) But I still shop there cuz they have it all.

[@Podver3]

I'm surprised you don't mention the fact that you need to check the brakefluidreservoir under the hood. If it is already at the maximum, you will put massive pressure on it when you push back the pistons. This will result in an overflood of the reservoir or even worse; the cap can shoot of. All the brakefluid will run down your enginebay where it will destroy some parts due to the fact that brakefluid is agressive. It also might fall onto your rims or paint which it will also affect.

[@mblake0420]

false, won't happen

[@Podver3]

Sure..

[@progmanmike]

I've heard it could happen, but it's never happened to me

[@pzarelli75]

...but you don't need to take the calier frame off correct? just slide the new rotor in.

[@patrickhill4255]

Is there a certain grit sandpaper that one should use to clean up the hub before putting the new rotor back on?

[@robertmitchell4882]

Is it really necessary to replace the rotors if they're not warped or worn out? Can't you just replace the pads and be good to go? The Haynes repair manual doesn't say to replace them unless they're worn out.

[@ppha7665]

You don't need to bleed the brake lines afterwards?

[@tdipwr5020]

Is it the same for a MK6 GOLF?

[@jsweizston5410]

Maybe you could explain how a guy trying to change his brakes with a regular jack and jack stands is supposed to get those caliper carrier bolts off.

[@rootsdat]

Get underneath with a breaker bar.

[@progmanmike]

I used a regular ratchet and with a heavy pair of gloves performed an RKO out of nowhere with the tail of a hammer as an extension

[@devonflores8730]

Will this work for an electronic parking break? Trying to do my 2013 Audi s4

[@BigRyGuy04]

Yes, they need to be twisted. Only the rears, though. Fronts don't need to be twisted.

[@DONNYBOYY28]

Ralph's the man!

[@Neptune8]

Do you have to twist the calipers on the rear of a Mk4 , I remember helping my dad do my rear pads of my Mk4 and we never did the twist we just used a c clamp

[@alexm8526]

Great video, how (thin/mm's) can the rotors be used for before needing to be replaced?

[@alexm8526]

*****​, you recommend changing pads and rotors every time? What happened to resurfacing rotors between brake jobs?

[@djjbras]

Rotors are not as expensive as they once were and almost all the shops near me wanted to charge more to resurface them than the cost of a new rotor. I got 2 rotors and 4 brakes pads for $53.

[@Tito8149]

What's a 14mm triple square never heard of it myself

[@Michael-ij6kg]

Triple Square is a pattern similar to Torx... but different. It is 3 squares rotated evenly and is used for highly torqued bolts. Torx heads will strip and slip out.

[@FocalpointRD]

I know it's an easy task, but is there a similar video for the fronts?

[@MikeLi689]

never seen caliper bolts break loose that easily lol

[@rootsdat]

I was thinking the exact thing. I needed a small breaker bar to take those puppies out lol

[@progmanmike]

It was staged

[@Favelapat]

For demo purposes.

[@garyreeves7533]

Need lots of room under the car to swing a 18 or 24 inch bar until they sound like they have cracked. If done on the ground, Jack and chock up high enough for this, to make the job much easier.

[@ivannaspeedalot]

Do u need to crack the bleeder open to push the caliper back in????

[@Basement31]

Hi, What's the name of the special tool to press the piston caliper in? How come u can't use a C clamp?

[@timurg3377]

because of the rear parking brake internal self adjusting mechanism. don't try this without the proper tool.

[@blanco1706]

I like to see him take the M14 top bolt out on the caliper bracket, which short socket would fit that? I am sure the one he has does not fit.

[@mager76]

Triple wall Torx socket 14MM.

[@MrJag83aa]

Would the torque specs be the same for the MKV 08 Jetta 2.5?

[@Cabuse]

Great Video! How far should we be screwing the piston in? Is there a specific stopping point?

[@timurg3377]

as soon as the new pads fit on the new rotor you can stop compressing

[@dennisbaril9402]

you'll feel it stop

[@LivinLargeWithF650]

I have a 2002 Jetta that needs rear pads and rotors replaced, would this work the same?

[@XxHunter1]

No lube on the pads?

[@davetidman3574]

Do the caliper frame attachment bolts (the m14s) need to be replaced? There is some controversy on if they are stretch bolts or not. Great Video BTW, need to do this on a 2009 Jetta and this will help.

[@dennisbaril9402]

they're supposed to be replaced - along with the caliper bolts. Up to you - lots of guys don't do it though

[@rimwrecka100590]

Also, why won't a big C clamp work? It's worked for me and countless other people. Will it cause some sort of damage?

[@TheTransporter100]

Because they screw in that's why, Most auto parts stores rent this tool and ECS also sells it of course I bought it from them as I'll probably use it more than once www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.0T/Tools/Brake_Tools/Caliper/ES9747/

[@rimwrecka100590]

The Transporter I know where to buy the tool. But I believe it isn't necessary. I'm saying people have done it with a C clamp, no problem

[@TheTransporter100]

It's Not worth the risk IMO, Just look at Timur G response to Basement31 that explains why you don't use a c clamp on the rear

[@Leftcoast74]

Great videos by the way!

[@JorgeB6]

I learned something new :D thanks you guys

[@gregs157]

Thx!!

[@nortnel201225]

Amazing great! thank very much for my vw jetta se 2009

[@rimwrecka100590]

If I'm only doing pads and not replacing rotors, do I still need M14 triple square?

[@Cabuse]

you do not. but a good idea to replace them at the same time.

[@alexm8526]

Wait, you recommend replacing rotors every time the pads are replaced?

[@AgentOffice]

No

[@slicknick50]

Wow great video.

[@jamesboniface3921]

What size is the m14 triple square tool?

[@bobbi-annepiercy3967]

what about a 2007 vw rabbit? is it the same things. I cant find something for my rabbit :(

[@ecstuning]

MkV Rabbit and GTi will have different brakes. Check out our braking section for the MkV Rabbit! www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_V--2.5/Braking/

[@BigRyGuy04]

mine works great

[@ea3760]

I have NEVER seen the carrier bolt break off like, NEVER! This video would be so much more helpful if the carrier bolt got some attention and some trick on how to remove them as they are all problematic in my opinion.

[@davidtothet4286]

Notice how they didn’t show the top triple square. Note: you can’t fit a normal triple square in there, you need a stubby one.

[@jonathanrojas3756]

what coilovers are those?

[@LivinLargeWithF650]

Do you have a link? I am not able to locate this

[@FendtMaertu]

Stihl Screwdriver! =D Got always one on me ;D

[@bench175]

The main issue is if you can't lift the car enough to get your breaker bar in there. He has a lift.

[@Claus2044]

Very nice video, but i will always prefer original disc...;-)

[@rickdavid1795]

Of course you need to buy a bunch of oddball tools to work on Volkswagen! Figures!

[@ronaldorodriguez5999]

Grease or silicone on the slide pins

[@Michael-ij6kg]

Grease for metal+metal connections Silicone for metal+plastic/rubber connections

[@progmanmike]

Yes

[@timurg3377]

don't attempt rear brakes without proper compression tool

[@TheTransporter100]

Definitely!!!!

[@InCountry6970]

Timur G - Amen, brother

[@ismaeljimenez6261]

Man those bolts are tight as hell !!. I can't take them out. Any suggestion ? @ecstuningmedia

[@MrZimmaframe]

Lol reading all the comments of confused Americans thinking it's a torques bit but it's not. In England we call at a "M14 Spline bit" but i hear you guys call it a "m14 triple square". search both and i'm sure ya'll find something.

[@wizkid01]

These bolts ARE stretch bolts!!

[@yogherarmas]

goood

[@terrenceconnor9451]

he is

[@JavierGomez-lh8uj]

Would this be the same as on a mk6?

[@MATTTTTTTTTTTT566546]

Will this also be the same on a mk6

[@gordogmc13]

Matthew Galindo 2 years later... so was it? I have a 2013 JSW just wanting to make sure I'm not missing anything. TIA