EEVblog

[@matthewzepess5721]

You should make another budget multi meter video Like a $50, $100, $150 Budget meter. The last one is pretty old and is probably outdated severely.

[@luyfljf862]

I also agree.

[@budaiadi8185]

+Minessa Lp yop :))

[@DjResR]

+Matthew Zepess I also agree..

[@JohnJohnson-mm9qo]

The uni-t ut-136b is an awesome hobby level dmm and only costs 15 bucks.

[@matthewzepess5721]

I saw that one on amazon. And from the looks of it everyone has had some form of a t problem with it. If thats right out of the box i can only imagine the problems itll face after some use. What im looking for is a budget style meter that has a bunch of useful functions especially continuity but still a somewhat decent brand.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

The cat IV things on the probes aren't bull... if you're dealing with high energy circuits, having a probe that can't accidentally short between 2 terminals when it slips off the screw you've got it poked into... is a bloody good thing :)

[@mikeselectricstuff]

When you turned it on, it didn't seem to do a full display segment test, just showed its model number - potential safety issue as it could indicate a wrong voltage if segments are out.

[@milamiglia2437]

+mikeselectricstuff really? :)

[@mileycybot]

+mikeselectricstuff What meters do a segment test at every power on? Fluke 87V, 17x, and 11x all seem to show the model number. For the display test you have to be pressing Hold. Amprobe 3xXR you hold Peak.

[@michaelhawthorne8696]

+mikeselectricstuff I thought I was seeing things too. The 'D' segment of the right hand section was out. Didn't replay the video though to see if others were out too. I will do now though you brought it up. Just did that and can see a few were not on because the Model number being displayed. I would have thought that was a pre-requisite for a device that is used in this way.

[@Guiltshow1]

+mileycybot UNI-T UT71C :)

[@totaldude155]

+mikeselectricstuff Push the hold button on startup for a full segment test

[@murnelbabineaux105]

These teardowns are important. It Gives us the info we need to determine whether cost is compatible with quality :)

[@imortl69]

Perhaps they are snotting the inductor to keep it from singing in the audio range. They do it all the time with high performance video cards.

[@PlasmaHH]

There is a setup, just not via some button (hold setup while switching it on). There you can (like with about all keysight ones) change the setting from auto AC to auto DC voltage when turned on (who wants to have it on AC automatically anyways?). Also when you do the continuity test thing, whenever it doesnt work "fast" enough, you should redo it with high quality probes. It is almost always the probes. 1242B probes are crap, continuity almost unusable with them, using proper ones there is no problem at all. Also I think in the setup you can enable auto hold (try to have a look at the manual this time)

[@alexanderfefer8376]

Hey Dave, great teardown. Just wanted to point out that the meter does indeed have auto-hold - you need to enable it in the setup menu (hold down the orange button while turning the rotary knob). It's worth looking through the manual, there are a *lot* more capabilities in this meter than are immediately evident from a glance at the front panel.

[@drkastenbrot]

The shielding around the battery compartment is against batteriser switching noise (͡ ͡° ͜ つ ͡͡°)

[@maxfactor4209]

sounds Hunky Dory

[@dougspurell2387]

Nice tear-down as usual Dave. The SETUP menu is accessed by holding down the "VIEW" key while rotating the function switch. Use the "HOLD" key arrows to select menu items.

[@dougspurell2387]

+Doug Spurell As a reply to add to my own previous comment Dave. Using the arrows on the "HOLD" key you can select the AUTO-HOLD function from the trigger hold default. The Setup menu is better than my U1273AX, but I do like my smart Ohms feature. I still haven't found data on the vsense IC.

[@rustyrebar9647]

Some secure sites don't allow wireless communications, hence the detachable bluetooth module!!!!

[@juliannicholls]

I think this must be the most complimentary review that I've seen you make, Dave.

[@MorRobots]

The add on Bluetooth is not a total fail Dave and I can speculate why. Not all facilities are Bluetooth/Wifi Friendly for a multitude of reasons. For example I work in a facility that cellphones/WiFi/Bluetooth devices are not allowed for security reasons. I would speculate that Keysight wanted to keep customers with RF and security concerns in mind while also amplifying the potential to sell an already existing accessory.

[@zviratko]

+MorRobots that doesn't explain anything. You can always disable bluetooth either in software, or in hardware (physical switch, jumper inside), or just make it totally passive when not in use. Frankly, to me multimeters are so last century when it comes to features...

[@666Tomato666]

+MorRobots same reason why Thinkpads for years didn't have video cameras

[@MetalPhreakAU]

+Jan “Zviratko” Schermer The places where BT/Wifi/Cameras are not allowed, simply won't let you in with them if you can re-enable it. It's for security not safety.

[@MorRobots]

+Jan “Zviratko” Schermer No some of those facilities will not let you in with equipment that is even capable of WiFi/BT or even some types of RF. PERIOD... I agree however that Multimeters are kinda behind the times as far as diagnostic equipment goes.

[@tubical71]

+MorRobots i thought just the same;)

[@mikeselectricstuff]

BD5 - ferrite bead for EMC immunity I'd guess

[@EEVblog]

+mikeselectricstuff Yeah I think it has to be. Looks like a ferrite bead, and BD makes sense. Can't say I've ever seen one before though in this app. A hack job for compliance?

[@danielaustin7643]

+EEVblog probably

[@djkytronic]

+EEVblog I have seen this same thing on a cheaper meter wasn't sure what BD was, but yeah I would bet it is a last minute fix. Speaking of ferrite bead i should show you a picture of an old travel computer where all the through hole resistors had ferrite beads on each side of the legs before mating with the board...

[@BenChilds]

+EEVblog BD 5 Bobby dazzler #5?

[@LevonAvagyan]

+EEVblog As +Aleksander Øyen wrote, based on location of that inductor right next to the buzzer connector most probably it is involved in buzz generation and i guess it will resonate in some frequencies without gunk.

[@electronicsNmore]

Someone stole 2 or 3 very nice multimeters. They made off with $1,000 - $1,500 USD worth of test equipment.

[@roseelectronics4582]

good to see ya here. yours is the best microwave repair vidoe so far.

[@dimitar4y]

I love looking at these mini metropolises. This circuit is basically Mona Lisa.

[@johnnymotorboat8824]

It does have touch hold. I'm sure someone had already said this but just in case.

[@sonicfuker]

Dave, your multimeter reviews are the bees knees you bloody rippa and Bob's my uncle! Beauty!!

[@stonent]

+sonicfuker Bees Knees, and unfortunately Dave's Feet.

[@dumle29]

The CAT IV rating caps are there, so that you don't easilly short out to things, with the long exposed metal

[@filipsz6728]

The biggest issue with this bad boy is the range selector... sometimes it can stuck between two positions and the meter is going crazy or turning off by itself.

[@zaprodk]

The B-component is a ferrite bead, just to take the edge off an ESD-event.

[@alextrofimov7947]

Love good multimeter teardown in the morning) Aclually, I was interested in this battery monitor, I read datasheet on MAX6411 and it said that this tiny thing is in the pain-in-the-ass 2x2 mm 4-Bumps package. It appeared there in multimeter is MAX4611 - just quad SPST analog switch.

[@hugoschmeisser481]

Thank you for the nice teardown, looking Forward to the Review which I hope will come as well.

[@BHBalast]

Yay, another multimeter teardown, how cool it is. :D

[@Starchface]

I for one enjoy the equipment teardowns and reviews. I will say that the 1272 meter has more interesting features as far as I'm concerned. Even my trusty Micronta 22-195 bench meter from Radio Shack has a min-max hold feature. It's only 2,000 counts and I wouldn't trust it for anything over 200V, but I still use it. Good as new.

[@proluxelectronics7419]

You never should how the range selector was sealed to the front, May have explained the spoungy feedback.

[@neilhuband995]

That's why, yes. IP67 rated = O-ring behind the switch.

[@nickheywood8758]

bluetooth and sealing on a multimeter??? wow! nothing like that on my multimeter, I'm still using my dads old Fluke 73 series 3 from the 80's, and its still good to this day, definitely more accurate than any of the cheapo and mid range ones for sale today :P

[@8bits59]

+AvE this is what you would call a "Skookum Choocher"

[@tubical71]

+Noah Keck i think he´d goona gu a liddle différendé with that thing, as AvE usually test the plastic first, and also would do some floor drop testings, right away...;)

[@8bits59]

TubiCal​ still think it would hold up? Maybe Dave should take this one canyoning?

[@mcmaddie]

Reason why not put BT inside the device is that that way you don't need to get the thing certified in every single country you import it to. If the radio is external then it's enough to certify the radio module and not the devices where you use it. Of course if you don't care certificates then doesn't really matter.

[@chuckvanderbildt]

I would very much like to see these units in high current flashover conditions, to put those cat ratings to the test.

[@ChipGuy]

BD5 -> BEAD 5 -> ferrite bead. At least is looks like one.

[@scrambler6918]

Hey man, I love your videos. Awesome content, keep doing that.

[@AmRadPodcast]

Ferrite bead for sure. I had to put a couple of these puppies on an industrial project to meet EMC. That's a big ass meter for sure... a little sorry looking without it's winter coat on.

[@audiocrush]

Can't wait for the U1461A teardown ;)

[@robadex8043]

I guess being is a nice touch because you dont want water arround when working with electronics most of the time anyway The question is if its Coffee proof which in my opinion is an more common thread on a workplace ;) BTW greetings from Germany and Merry Christmas

[@DjResR]

AA has larger electrical capacity than 9v block, that would explain the battery life. Note the braces on the first door that holds fuses in, good attention to details.

[@bearbin]

+EEVBlog I'm guessing that the gunk on the inductor is for shock-resistance. Large SMD inductors do have a habit of falling off the board if you shock them.

[@jeremyhall7259]

I bet they did that to the inductor because when you beat the fluke the inductor broke.

[@EEVblog]

+Jeremy Hall That wouldn't help much!

[@666Tomato666]

+EEVblog maybe to stop it from whining when it starts failing?

[@stonent]

+666Tomato666 Yeah I figured maybe someone during testing said they could hear the inductor so they gave it a squirt of snot to keep it quiet.

[@detalite]

+EEVblog Maybe be it was too noisy. Sometimes inductors generate high pitch sound. Once i used glue on inductors in my DSL modem to reduce that noise, and it works nicely.

[@Slot1Gamer]

+EEVblog maybe it's to hold the electrons in !

[@sharpx777]

the heatshrink tubing on the high voltage side is to contain sparks/flame.

[@supersat]

You typoed the MAX chip. That datasheet is for a MAX6411, not a MAX4611. The MAX4611 is a "Low-Voltage, Quad, SPST CMOS Analog Switches"

[@Leonelf0]

BD part: might be "bead", like an inductor. idk why, but that's what comes to mind for me ^^

[@randomthingch1970]

I Just discover this channel from ELECTROBOOM and I don't regret it, keep it up!!

[@Lagittaja]

+EEVblog It does have auto hold. See manual page 104.

[@MetalPhreakAU]

+Lagittaja From the manual (pretty sure this is the fluke touch hold like feature the previous Agilent meters had): The AutoHold operation monitors the input signal and updates the display, and if enabled, emits a beep whenever a new stable measurement is detected. The AutoHold mode will be triggered when the input signal varies more than a selected adjustable (AutoHold threshold) variation count (default 50 counts).

[@jeremyventurino9481]

I loved this video. I geek out over stuff like this. Great job!

[@KrzedRdNckPsn]

Dave should do the worst windows surface lol my wife took my phone away from me because I'll watch Daves videos in the middle of the night 😂😂

[@Jeepjones85]

Can you do a tear down of the Fieldpiece Sc660 meter. They are very popular among Hvac technicians. I've used them for a long time and they really seem to last. Thanks !

[@messedmushroom]

Is it possible that the inductor was covered in gunk to stop coil whine?

[@neilhuband995]

I'd say so, yes

[@JosipMiller]

I think so. Depending on frequency, you can hear it. I got Buck converter on one of my PIC test boards and it produces barely audible but noticeable whining.

[@daveblane6442]

Don't fuck around, just get a Fluke 289, for $100 more or so.

[@bulwinkle]

That inductor has been EEVblog-proofed. :-)

[@kevinobrien8803]

That's not an O J glove!!! that was a very funny line. Your videos are not only informative but great fun to. Often I laugh out loud. Keep the clever jokes coming they are really good.

[@tubical71]

Dave, again you done a great teardown! And thanx for this one at 25:32 now, i know what to watch tonite :)

[@MrAlekoy]

I think the inductor is gunked to silence it, it boosts the piezo sound, and would buzz itself if not for the gunk..

[@LevonAvagyan]

+Aleksander Øyen I concluded the same thing :-)

[@tubical71]

+Aleksander Øyen Jep, when my designs using inductors they are always ringing and i gunk them as well....;)

[@dieterwerner3124]

Dave, you showed the wrong datasheet of MAX6411 instead of MAX4611.The chip is a 4 channel multiplexer, not a voltage detector.

[@aserta]

BT is a cute idea, but with the amount of certification, regulation, and issues regarding implementation...not worth it, it would also rise the price a bit (on the recup side of things).

[@fergusoddjob]

my only thought for the inductor being covered in "gunk" would be to stop coil whine i mean some graphics cards in computers will have coil whine and one of the ways to reduce it is to cover it in something to stop it vibrating

[@monchiabbad]

Hmm the cut outs underneath the sparkgaps are rather short, a spark could jump across the board on the edge of the cut out.

[@besatanas]

For the Hold, it look like you have 2 left right arrows on the same button, perhaps change of the hold function

[@gaelc13]

Maybe the spongy feeling could be caused by the filtering of high frequencies of the clicks, due to all the water protection ? To my ears, it feels less so when open..

[@bdot02]

Alright, now send one of these to ave so he can REALLY text the skoommess of the IP67 rating.

[@hasanzogaj7348]

bdot02. nj ik g - v. mkh hoodoo

[@hasanzogaj7348]

bdot02

[@damensutherland7081]

You should do video on extech and how to calibrate one I tried and I think you gotta program the chipset or processor .I turned v resistor and it went reading 300 mv fluctuating back in forth and changes with weather

[@tomjones9137]

What the hell is 'street price'? I picture some dude in a dark alley flipping open his trench coat to reveal a selection of black market multimeters.

[@roseelectronics4582]

Haha lol

[@sdttnkara]

I would like to see the range switch because there is a "how ya doing seal" which causes spongy feel.

[@FreiR]

other exemple of marketing model instrument: ANENG AN8009 is very, very similar to ANENG AN8008 :)

[@dimitar4y]

i see eevblog struggling to criticize this piece of majestic kit :U

[@1kuhny]

maybe the put that stuff around the inductor either for sound water proofing. even though they should be water proof without any help

[@firefrontsolutions]

you could take it to the beach/snorkeling for IP67 testing? Gordon Bay, Sydney? Something different from canyoning?

[@bradwilmot5066]

I have to wonder if they gunked the inductor because of the way the one in the fluke 28 sheared off when you dropped it?

[@MilentijePCE]

MAX4611 are CMOS analog switches, not voltage detectors. Voltage detectors are MAX6411. Permutation. :)

[@tookitogo]

MilentijePCE I think you mean "transposition".

[@johnfrancisdoe1563]

Antonio Tejada Also the displayed data sheet clearly said it's for a chip in a tiny 4-bump package, not that old school package.

[@brittisaacrossman]

The tripod has spoken! It has been let down by this multimeter...

[@dimitriderop8822]

11:16/41:55 Not FCC (EMI, USA market) but the Korean KC(C) mark

[@TheRustiestShackleford]

4:39 street... price? You buy these meters from a man in a long coat standing in an alley?

[@omfgbunder2008]

CSA is good enough for Canada. That one switch contact looks dirty though

[@ghosttwo2]

The framerate on this video is blowing my mind...

[@MaxieRetro]

I'd love to see you review some Knight test equipment. I used them in school and liked their multi-meter well enough.

[@Hardwarenerd]

very nice greetings from greece !!

[@MrVpet]

Hey Dave can you do a tutorial on how do MultiMeters work? Greetings from Greece :)

[@friedmule5403]

Would really like them to be IP66 but okay IP67 is also fine, just not so rugged.

[@AureliusR]

It's a max4611 not 6411. Quad SPST switch, not voltage detector.

[@GTechno13]

Error at 22:56 MAX4611MAX6411

[@neilhuband995]

the reason the switch doesn't have as positive a click as some of your other multimeters is because it's ip67 rated. it's got an o-ring in there too stop dust and water.

[@neilhuband995]

*to hate frickin' not being able to edit a typo on here, grrrr

[@Anzac97]

+neil huband You can edit typo's on youtube, its the little arrow pointing down when you hover over your comment, that is on a desktop however.

[@neilhuband995]

+Zalgar On desktop yeah. It doesn't have the option on the mobile app though, all you can do is delete the comment. Pretty ridiculous not to have an edit option, I hope they add it soon..

[@Anzac97]

neil huband Yeah that's a bit stupid really, its not that hard to implement really...

[@johnfrancisdoe1563]

neil h They did, at least in some versions. I generally turn off autoupdates for their apps, as they seem to frequently release broken builds.

[@willyrivero470]

Would'nt it be nice a multimeter with cable less test probes? I'm so tired of un messing the cables and be carefull not to damage them all the time.

[@lukahierl9857]

To my understandment sensing the voltage at the current terminals woudnt make any sence. Normaly you measure directly at the shunt resistor to avoid any line reistance like fuses os pcb traces.

[@KeenanTims]

Funny squiggly trace in the input visible at 27:23 . Wonder what that's about.

[@XFolf]

The globbed up inductor might have been to help prevent -any- moisture from altering its characteristics over time... as pure copper wire is not a happy camper with any sort of moisture. I'd imagine that the chemical make up of all the guts and bits would favor the copper in that inductor as a potential anode for corrosive processes (sorta like how the zinc sacrificial anodes save a ship, this inductor could try to do the same?). Like... maaaaybe its another stab at making the unit a bit more robust in marine environments.. say a drop or two of water gets in during a fuse/battery change, ect. I think someone was thinking about longevity to an extreme.

[@thebigmacd]

+XFolf The wire in inductive coils is coated with insulation...not bare wire. If it were bare the current would just bypass the coil. So its already somewhat protected.

[@XFolf]

+Keith MacDonald that coating is only so thick and doesn't necessarily coat the entire surface of copper, like around where the heat of the soldering melts it away. I've seen audio amps out of vehicles that have suffered water intrusions and the inductors sometimes have a bit of corrosion them where things were just right. I agree totally, its not necessary by any stretch because of the insulation barrier, just overkill. But at the same time, we are taught not to necessarily trust that barrier is complete. Maybe its another reason relating to someone wanting an extra barrier, but that would be beyond me.. this stuff is sadly only a hobby for me, took the wrong career paths while I had the money to do so (d'oh!)

[@mman454]

Hmm... The rated battery life in my ol Fluke 23 series II that has a rated battery life of 2000 hours! 2k hours!

[@blakeblackbeard9627]

you should do a review on a klein tools mm400, mm600, or mm700 multimeter.

[@Jack_The_Biker]

I have a serious problem developing. I want to purchase several multimeters ;-; from Fluke, Aneng, FLIR, and now Keysight. These videos are not helping me in that regard

[@nick60444]

And how come there aren't any multimeters to measure inductance? Are they not practical?

[@Slot1Gamer]

can you do a guide on spotting fake Fluke and Hakko devices? Found some cheap Hakko FX888D stations for $150 ~ $200 on evil-bay, same goes for Fluke.. My YiHUA all in one hot air and iron is nice (the iron is a bit how ya goin) but it takes up more room than the separate Hakko units we use at work, especially if I only want to use an iron :(

[@tokenlectronix5223]

Take a look at the $130 field piece LT17A BTW I'm a fieldpiece fan boy

[@FortyTwoAnswerToEverything]

I love Die Hard. My fav's were 2 and 3.

[@demianxldc]

hi, why all multimete use AA or 9v battery?.... but not lithium or similar 18650 cell

[@andrezunido]

Hi Dave, I see that you often "use" regular alkaline batteries. Aren't rechargeable batteries more environmentally friendly? I would really like if you could approach this topic. Specially when eneloop batteries advertise such great features like losing very little capacity over time (they advertise ~10% loss in 5 years). Anyway, I would really appreciate if you could chime in on this. Thanks for another great video!

[@ijs106]

Não vi esses instrumentos pra vender em lugar nenhum.alguem viu??

[@hsavietto]

I believe the support is attached to the body of the multimeter instead of the protecting cover for stability, since the cover is pretty flexible. About the inductor with that rubber (I'm just guessing here), could it be related to calibration?

[@hsavietto]

Ok, I just googled about inductors and noticed that my guess is just plain stupid. Disconsider it.

[@LasseHuhtala]

Don't get me started on hoverboards! :-)

[@samiranbairagi1085]

Who is best multimeter brand?

[@guafito]

many trypods will be sent to him because of this video.....

[@hameedullah6633]

Hello. Which brand and multimeter is best for everything ( home, electrical work and electrician user)

[@pesshau6508]

25:29 Die Hard With a Vengeance! The second best in the series =)

[@ServiceComputers]

A mite bit cheaper than my Fluke 289 (~600USD), which is also huge, I don't know if it's IP67, and I'm damn sure not going to try it.