EGO 56V Rapid Charger Repair

[@Christian333x]

Glad to see the same problem I’ve had. I have some soldering skills and even though this is a very thorough video this is a little bit over my skill level. Hopefully ego will address this board issues and put out a more rugged charger. I unfortunately didn’t save my receipt and register my product.

[@antimaga856]

Nice repair, thank you for posting! I have both the 5.0Ah pack (and 2.0 & 7.5) and this charger, so it's appreciated that you have shared your knowledge in case mine need repair (after warranty).

[@angelgkd]

Fantastic troubleshooting. Keep up the great work.

[@iamwhodis]

Buddy..i am in awe of what you are capable of. To be honest I didnt even understand a quarter of what you were saying. But thank you for the video

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Thanks so much for your comment. It helps to have honest feedback. I do not even realize how it received sometimes!

[@Rick-wy4od]

Brand new CH5500E charger here in Australia. Purchased in Jan this year. I suspected from day 1 that it wasn't fully charging the battery. The charger would show full charge, but when I take the battery off, I only have 2 bars and get maybe 15-30 mins of mow time from a 5ah battery. Kinda wished I'd got the slow charger now..

[@ThriftyToolShed]

That is a weird problem. I have not seen that on one of these.

[@Rick-wy4od]

@@ThriftyToolShed This is a 240v AC unit, so possibly different fault characteristics to the 110v models. Anyway, will be interesting to see what happens with the warranty claim.

[@battmanbattman5308]

Nice video, reminds me of my passed similar approach fault finding switch mode power supplies. Always be careful with shorts across capacitors, they are usually not the problem and often it's something else across the power bus, many times its rectifier diodes that fail shorted. Also a suggestion, using a cheap mains power meter ($20 from Bunnings in Australia) you can see if the charger is actually charging very easy as well as some other charger irregularities by observing power draw (watts).

[@padraigkennedy6386]

Thanks so much for this, your video gave me the motivation to repair my own charger, which saved me an expensive replacement 🎉

[@danielbeales]

Great video! I have one that the glass fuse has blown. Do you happen to know the rating?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Thanks for your kind comment! I don't know the fuse rating sorry. It's been a while.

[@jiggyluvv]

It T6, 3A according to the manual. I bought one tonight and will try to repair tomorrow.

[@merlepittman5622]

The 0 ohm resistor has no resistance, so it draws no current and thus generates no heat unlike a resistor that actually has resistance and is dropping voltage and using current. That's likely why it wouldn't have blown (if that was the issue at all). Also, you often cannot just measure the resistance of a resistor while installed in circuit. Any of the components connected to this resistor can sometimes affect what you are reading.

[@Ilovenygal]

I just bought an Ego LM2156SP mower and accidentally dropped the battery charger. It fell about 3 feet onto the garage floor. I'm heartbroken worried that it is damaged.😔

[@DIYGuy85]

Does the charger use the D terminal as well? I can understand the T terminal because it needs to monitor battery temp.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

The one charger that I worked on used both. It still communicated with the pack to some degree and the charger used to be the only thing that used the T-terminal. I have seen newer blowers etc that have all 4 connections, but I don't know if they use them all.

[@AleksandrFursa-t7g]

Hi, what orientation is D12 diod? Anod toward's screw?

[@MotoJim2020]

EGO just sent me a new battery pack, since my old one was defective. As soon as I put the new battery pack on the charger, it made a small pop noise, and now the charger is shot, doesn't do anything at all. I wonder if that fuse popped in it. I'm really starting to hate these ego mowers, nothing but trouble for 2 years now. What size fuse did that have, and is it user replaceable? Thanks for any help.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Well as seen in the video I had a couple bad components and not a bad fuse. I do believe most of these models have a fuse that is soldered in so replacing it would not be that hard. It is at least 2 different versions of these chargers and maybe even more. Hopefully they are similar enough for the video to be helpful.

[@MotoJim2020]

@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks you for the reply. It's still under warranty, so best bet would be to let ego handle it, I guess. They've already send a new mower, and a new battery, might as well send me a new charger. lol In all my years, I've never had such issues with anything else, never had a charger just quit. I'm about to put it all in the refuse.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

@@MotoJim2020 Yes, warranty replacement first for sure. EGO usually lets you keep the bad item so I thought that was why you asked about repairing it. What you have been through sounds like a pain for sure. This does seem like a very unusual issue as I don't see many issues with these over all. Most of these run for many years without issue and I know by saying that doesn't help your situation much at all. Just saying if you do give all the new warranty replacement items another shot hopefully they will perform much better than this first experience. Also, if you do decide to get rid of them, they will typically bring good money on eBay! Best of luck To ya!

[@MotoJim2020]

@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you for the reply. It figures I'd have trouble with the charger, especially when they seem to be more reliable. I've sent them a message about the charger. I hope they decide to get back to me. If they send a new one, that will make a new mower, a new battery, and a new charger. Not sure how they can make money with problems like these.

[@clearz3600]

Hi, Nice video. I've been having problems with the same charger. It only charges to about halfway before showing as a full battery. I thought it was the battery first but have now tried 3 different ones in it and have the same problem with all of them. I haven't opened it yet as The only secure torx screwdriver I have wont fit down the holes.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Yes, I use the long bit security set. It helps a lot with many items when disassembling. I should have them in my list of items I like to use on my work bench. amzn.to/3GVirQE Or amzn.to/3x9LriU

[@brucetaylor9082]

Thanks for your video do you know the value for R59 many thanks i think you said 10 ohms but mine go up in smoke

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I don't remember if that was R59 I replaced or not it has been so long ago since that repair. It was a 10 ohm resistor I replaced for sure. If you cannot find any help in this manner, I could open up my charger and see what the value of R59 Is on mine. It may take me some time to get around to it though!

[@fokcuk]

Nice one! Any suggestions on how to monitor charge % on the older batteries without the proper battery gauge on a normal charger?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

It is very hard to tell on the older packs. I can't believe they did not put a fuel gauge on the things. You can do a basic voltage check on the + and - terminals with somewhere around 40V being fully discharged and 58V or so fully charged. It all depends on how much load your tool using at the time. If you are reading below 50V for example it will not run a blower very long. A blower eats the battery up quicker than even the chainsaw does!

[@fokcuk]

@@ThriftyToolShed Yeah. And that is when they have the gauge on the rapid charger... Have you taken new ones apart? Are they much different to the old ones? Thinking of getting 5Ah battery and the old one without the gauge is $70 cheaper than the new one

[@ThriftyToolShed]

@@fokcuk I do not have a new style pack yet. Hopefully they are much better and don't have the issue we found with Q12 shorting out on the BMS.

[@alexfursa3854]

Hi , can you tell me the D12 diode value on the board?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

This video is over 3 years ago and I have not worked on one since. This video is the only reference I would have also. Sorry. If anyone else has one apart and sees this maybe they can help?

[@harryluo943]

nice work. Do you know does the rapid charge with protection fuse inside? I had thunder hit and the charger no longer work without any power indictor any more. Thanks.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

It should be a Input protection fuse and MOVs as well. Sometimes they help stop damage and we never lucky. Unfortunately lightning is so fast and powerful that it's hard to clamp it fast enough that close to sensitive components to help many times. Best of luck to ya!

[@humanadia]

Thanks for much for posting this. You gave me confidence to repair my CH5500 myself (25% light blinks but batteries don't ever begin charging). I looked closely at the board and found an SMD resistor with a white spot on it, which ended up being burned coating, and the resistor checks out at >1 megohm. The resistor (R20) is located in the upper left quadrant when looking from the rear, about 3/4" to the lower right of the larger IC. I scratched at the burnt spot but it took away some of the resistor's ID numbers. Do you happen to know what that resistor value is? From what's left of it, I think it begins with "2". I have watched your video multiple times trying to see if I can pick up the number, but no luck.

[@humanadia]

I should also add that the charger read 25% no matter how charged the battery already was. So it both could not detect the battery’s charge level and would not charge the battery either.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

The R20 value on mine is 201 so 200 ohms. Keep in mind the conformal coating over the board can make it hard to get a good connection while troubleshooting. I feel like you already know that, but wanted to share just in case. If the smd has a white spot as you described, most likely it is burned just as you said. Hope it helps, best of luck to ya!

[@brentonfender2081]

Fine sir, I'm trying to turn a spare Ego CH2100 into a DC power supply for a DC input battery charger. Do you know how I would get power to come out of the + terminal? I'm getting 3.4v from T terminal and .02 D terminal.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Hello, I have not worked on that charger to say for sure. I am almost sure it uses the D-Terminal to communicate with the charging pack and it utilizes that to output correctly. The T-terminal is also used to monitor the temperature. I have separate videos called "What is the D-terminal?" and also " What is the T-terminal?" Where I discuss what I know and don't know on the subject...

[@brentonfender2081]

@@ThriftyToolShed Yeah skimmed those. So the D terminal somehow signals the charger to output power to the Batt + terminal but no one knows how?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Well it's communication between the two. It knows the size of the pack inserted, if any issues (Errors) and charge status. It seems to also have a temperature reference so it knows that as well even though it also has separate terminal for temp as well. What else? Not exactly sure, I have not had any time to spend on figuring out any more on the protocol. I posted the video hoping to get some EE(s) involved that may have more experience in that part of the design. I have had a few people contact me about working on that part of it, but I think they got distracted as well.

[@brentonfender2081]

@@ThriftyToolShed There is a thread with people who had been working on it on Endless Sphere. Your videos are referenced. The thread is titled "Understanding and Using EGO Power+ Batteries." Have you seen this discussion?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

@@brentonfender2081 I have not seen that!

[@larry6802]

Where can I find the schematic for this charger? Transistor in slot “U9” has appeared to be blown. I’m not for sure what I need to get for a replacement

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I do not know of any schematics available. The main reason I take time to show some of my repairs is because most consumer items these days do not have schematics available. At least I share what little bit learned through the troubleshooting and repair process. It's not the best, it doesn't answer all questions, and it may not be the same issue, but hopefully as we all share what we learn it will get easier.

[@MrRadBee]

Q~ I took my 56v 7.5 battery apart and I accidentally connected the 4 charging tabs backwards ~ battery to charger. Did I ruin the battery 🪫 or the charger?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Could have messed up either or both. I would check the fuse on the pack first and then the charger fuses. Hopefully it's minor.

[@MrRadBee]

@@ThriftyToolShed Checked the battery leads with volt meter @ 55-57. Button light turns on when I press it. Battery was charged 50% before I stupidly played around. I just plugged in the charger and a little spark popped at the outlet. No outlet fuse blown. Do you have a video on how to repair a charger fuse if blown? Appreciate your help....

[@ThriftyToolShed]

@@MrRadBee I only have this one video on a charger. It was a rapid charger and the issue was a blown trace, diode and maybe a resistor if I remember correctly. The fuse was not blown on it. I bought it as nonworking and repaired it. Sounds like your battery fuse is good, hopefully not anything wrong with the BMS board. Best of luck to ya!

[@philipgoddard886]

@thriftytoolshed Thanks for the video. The glass fuse on my charger is blown, can't see any other problems. Could you help identify a replacement please? Am I right in saying it's a thermal fuse? I can't make out all the markings, maybe 250v3a cqc vde with what looks like an ic logo. Could a bad battery have caused this or should I be looking for another problem? Thanks

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I do not believe a bad pack would cause it since the output section of the charger should have its own protection. Either the the power supply section itself caused it or maybe even with a storm something on the input line can cause it. Sometimes the fuse protects quick enough and sometimes it ends up with other component damage also. So if seems like its a common glass fuse, not a thermal fuse. The glass fuses are for current protection ok only. 250V 3A is the rating it seems. You can get the approx size of the fuse and I assume it's axial and has the leads coming from the ends to solder through hole? I would just search eBay, Newark or digikey for that size fuse with leads 250v rated for 3A. If you can't find anything let me know. I would assume this is a time delay fuse and not a fast acting fuse if powering the power side of the power supply, but I don't know that for sure. Best of luck to ya!

[@philipgoddard886]

@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for your time and advice

[@tylertakes2241]

Just curious if you ever checked how many amps the rapid chargers pump into the batteries while you had it opened up. They don't say on the back of the charger. Great videos by the way. Excellent work!

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Sorry, I did not. I believe it to be around twice the basic charger rate since it is around twice as fast. I am not 100% sure. Thanks for your comment!

[@jon_byler]

The manual says 7.5A

[@Jrddng06]

Mine stays red on 25 percent and tested at 50.04V. The problem is my 30 min fast charger because i realized its missing a fin. 4 finds on the charger that the batter sits in to charge my 3rd pin is missing. Whats your suggestion?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Sorry, I don't understand what is missing? The third pin on the charger?

[@jschroedl983]

Very nice repair.

[@joeromanowski6548]

Quite interesting watching a master at work. However, way beyond my capabilities. I think i will just purchase a new charger.

[@timh2870]

Nicely done. How old was that diode?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

The one I used for testing is one I removed from a heat controller in the mid 90's. It is possibly from the early 80's? Thanks for your comment!

[@michaelcharach]

I hate how this charger sparks when you plug it in to AC. That a design flaw??

[@timh2870]

@@michaelcharach There's no pfc or soft start. Not a flaw per se; they just cheaped out.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

@@timh2870 Exactly, just large caps on the input side of the power supply with no in rush NTC. Seems most electronics these days are designed to stay plugged in I guess? You see it alot now, back in the analog days with CRTs for example they were mandatory!

[@jon_byler]

Plug into a power strip with a switch. It’s probably inrush current ast the power supply capacitors are getting charged up. They likely could have designed it not to do so by adding an NTC inrush current limiting resistor. Just plug into a power strip with a switch and use the switch to turn it on and off. Personally, I think all devices connected to mains power ought to have a physical power switch to shut them off when not in use, but that’s not how things are made these days.

[@Mike-01234]

I read if call them they send you another charger free even if it's out of warranty. If don't want to wait on them do this repair

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I have never had a charger go bad, I would think they would send you a new one like they do the battery packs. Best of luck you!

[@acecabezon]

Not for me, sadly.

[@rosegegner2557]

My charger just went out no power at all.

[@beastmodegames.4068]

You didn't show us what tool to open it with.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

? 1:50 ?

[@alexfursa3854]

Hi ,can you tell me what orientation is D12? Arrow toward 's screw ?

[@dontbanmebrodontbanme5403]

My charger isn't even powering on.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I assume you have tried more than one battery in charger as well. Then I would test input protection area first, the Fuse, Thermistors, Diodes etc. Be careful with mains voltage make sure unplugged and verify all caps are discharged of course. Only testing what you are qualified to test.

[@dontbanmebrodontbanme5403]

@@ThriftyToolShed Yes, I tested with 8 different batteries. Ok, thanks for the info.

[@naikrovek]

why in the whatever is that board single sided? those chargers aren't cheap; I don't know why they'd need to save money by using a single-sided board...

[@jon_byler]

Easier to repair if it’s single sided. I wish more devices still used through hole technology on parts likely to go bad, but they’re not designed to be repaired by normal people anymore.

[@BenHeckHacks]

It's to make as much money as possible #capitalism

[@rosegegner2557]

So sorry my ego battery charger no power.