El Mudo 1 vs 2 vs 3 - the ONLY manufactured lead rope solo device

This climbing device is like no other. It is a shame the Soloist and the Silent Partner are no longer in production. But the El Mudo is there for some climbers to get some climbing done!!! Note that many use Grigris, the Revo, the Eddy, the LOV or other devices. Each one has to make his own safety assessment...
Buy the Mudo directly from Manuel Larios here: stonecrag.com/
By the way, since 2023-05-15, the Mudo is covered in the online course. Exactly 1h of specific content on the Mudo alone in 11 videos. Can all be found here: blissclimbing....
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[@ericmillescamps7196]

Thanks Yann for sharing all this great information for LRS fans and climbing enthusiasts. I've just received my EL MUDO 3.0 and I have to say it's a beautiful object. Its simplicity, the absence of springs or other parts, means that it will last a very long time. Manuel is going to study a very small improvement I suggested to hold the axle in position better. I love the simplicity and efficiency of his design and share your enthusiasm.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Thanks for the comment Eric! Enjoy your Mudo and let us know how it went for you!

[@Dani_Escalada]

I think it might be worth to start with showing how this device works like on principle at least to see what is it about and understand better the analysis you did! Thanks for the content!

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

The manual can be found here: stonecrag.com/el-mudo/ . It will take the time it takes for me to get used to the device and master the system. If I think it is good (safe enough, efficient, enjoyable), it will be in my LRS online course here: blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/

[@jenyates3033]

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing no it's not. The 2.0 manual is posted, not the 3.0. Are they the same?

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@@jenyates3033 look at my video! They are different. But the use is essentially the same. Only rope compatibility is different, the exact geometry of the locking pin are different

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

By the way, since 2023-05-15, the Mudo is covered in the online course. Exactly 1h of specific content on the Mudo alone in 11 videos. Can all be found here: blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/

[@robertgustavsson1920]

I use the upside-down grigri (in an upright position, no modification) with the "break hand rope" redirected via carabiner on my leg loop and then the rope going up over my chest/shoulder into my backpack. I have zero slippage because of the redirect. Feeding the rope is easy because it is just to pull down the rope in chest height making the movement short and fairly close to your hands on the wall.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

ok. Be careful out there!

[@nicolasvazeille7773]

Cool vidéo. Hâte d'avoir ton retour là dessus. D'après les videos sur le site et le manuel ça semble être une belle option "peu" dispendieuse.

[@brianrodman1033]

Yes! Please test the Soloist to see how it does when pull tested. It would be interesting to see if it performs similarly to El Mudo or if it causes damage similarly to the other devices.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

My Soloist slipped at 2.5kN on the same 9mm rope. Wonder what would have happened if I put a trailing backup knot...

[@brycespryce]

Can you do simulated bag drop tests on it like you’ve done with the revo?

[@lp4275]

Great vid!

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Thanks

[@user-hm5hv8qv1w]

Bonjour Yann Camus et félicitations pour votre chaîne et vos contenus explicatifs et didactiques. Mon contexte : je suis un quasi ignare en matière d’escalade, et je n’ai pour toute expérience que de l’escalade en contexte militaire, à l’ancienne (sans appareil d’assurage ou pour le rappel), il y a cela plus de quarante ans (engagé dans les commandos parachutistes). Aujourd’hui je dois grimper et sectionner des arbres d’une trentaine de mètres pour répondre aux demandes des voisins ; j’ utiliserai également mon matériel, pour grimper au mât d’un voilier et je n’envisage pas du tout une pratique addictive de l’escade en falaise ( peut-être à l’occasion). C’est la raison pour laquelle je m’intéresse aujourd’hui aux systèmes et appareils de grimpe. J’ai songé me fabriquer myself un pseudo Silent Partner, mais cela représente pas mal d’heures de tournage fraisage, et le tarage des ressorts internes de rappel des galets impliquerait tâtonnements et essais multiples - car je ne dispose pas d’un Silent Partner modèle - (mais c’est parfaitement faisable). Aussi, je suis assez séduit par l’appareil El Mudo, par son concept mécanique, sa construction robuste et son respect pour l’intégrité du cordage. Ma question : Donc, hormis le Silent Partner, tous les appareils anti-chute présentent la faillabilité funeste en cas de chute inversée, et nécessitent une sauvegarde avec un second système poulie bloquante genre Micro Traction pour enrayer la chute inverse exclusivement...pour lesquels ils ne sont pas initialement conçus... Veuillez Yann, vraiment excuser ma totale incompétence si je me trompe, mais, l’utilisation d’un réel harnais de poitrine associé à un simple jeu de poulies ne permettrait-elle pas de faire fonctionner l’antichute maître, y compris en cas de chute inverse? Je m’explique : on dispose un harnais de poitrine avec un ancrage poitrine (style sauveteur genre CAMP GT Guest) ET ancré devant - derrière sur un harnais de selle à ancrage bas pour annuler tout conflit entre l’appareil et l’ancrage poitrine haut ( genre PETZL Superavanti). L’anti-chute ancré au harnais de selle, la corde ancre passant dans une poulie frappée à l’anneau du harnais de poitrine et revenant ensuite sur une poulie frappée avec mousqueton à l’ancre du harnais de selle (pour y assoir la traction et le positionnement d’équilibre gravitaire de confort : ainsi, me semble-il, l’appareil antichute devrait toujours fonctionner, y compris en cas de chute inverse, la traction s’effectuant toujourd de par le haut de l’appareil ; d’autre part, une telle disposition, si elle est envisageable, semble permettre aussi l’évitement d’une torsion inverse des vertèbres lombaires en serrant le tronc côté abdominal entre épaules et bassin lors d’une chute sévère. Que pensez- vous de cette élucubration ?

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Pas tout lu. Vous voulez monter aux arbres. Demandez de rencontrer un émondeur au travail pour apprendre sur les arbres. Ok?

[@user-hm5hv8qv1w]

Même pas la peine.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@@user-hm5hv8qv1w ok merci pour le commentaire!

[@dylansiracusan9490]

Hey Yann, Do you think you could put a video out on how to set up the Mudo for lead soloing. There seems to only be 1 on youtube and there is little to no talking and explanation in that one.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Thanks for contacting me about your rope solo questions! I know it's hard to find a comprehensive and reliable source of information on this topic. That's why I did my research, bought equipment, experimented and adopted a way to teach rope soloing. I do not answer questions in private. My reasons are the following: -It is dangerous to have partial information about security systems -I need an income to continue my mission to teach and innovate I would love to help you find answers to your questions! I suggest the following solutions: -An in-person course (blissclimbing-com.translate.goog/fr/formations/?_x_tr_sl=fr&_x_tr_tl=en) -An online course (blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/) -A subscription to my Patreon (I answer on the platform) (www.patreon.com/blissclimbing) I prefer to refer to complete courses. The courses should answer 99% of your questions and show you more things you haven't even thought of AND that are essential to being effective and safe! For any remaining questions, I answer every question asked by my clients and try to post everything on the hidden private Facebook groups reserved for buyers of online courses so that all buyers can benefit. I also very often add content to the courses because there is so much to say and teach on the subject AND I still learn quite often! You can always ask your questions on the “regular” public Facebook rope solo groups, but you won't get all correct answers and probably nothing complete. That's why my suggestion is to take the courses!! Looking forward to seeing you buy a course: you will be happy with your choice!!!

[@daanschone1548]

Does it also work when falling upside down?

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

It will fail if falling upside down. You need a good backup.

[@markfnorm]

What was the problem with repelling on the mudo 3?

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

I felt it was hard at some point. But recently, it was ok. Maybe I needed to get used to it! Makes sense?

[@climbcompasswest]

Interesting videos. Does the El Mudo work when you fall head first?

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

No: you need a backup for that. Anyway you always need a backup…

[@user-rw2rv3kd9z]

Cost: Grigri 63$/ El mudo cost 173$ Certified: Grigri ✅️/ El mudo ❌️ Upside Fall: Grigri ❌️/ El mudo ❌️ Need backup: Grigri ✅️/ El mudo ✅️ Rappel: Grigri ✅️/ El mudo: ❌️ requires ATC (according to Yan) What are mudo advantages that make it a LRS device?

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

The Mudo was designed for the purpose. Not the Grigri. Petzl tells using the grigri for LRS is prohibited. My recent uses of the Mudo 3.0 suggest using it to rappel is reasonable. But I’d rather ask the community on that to have the feedback of tens of people. Also the Mudo is a stronger device than the Grigri and does not require modification. Also you missed mentioning that the Mudo is 350g vs 200g for the grigri.

[@maximcoleman4495]

Thank you for the shared knowledge! have you ever used this device for a big wall?

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

My solo big walls before 2017 were all with the Silent Partner because this is what I knew well and liked the best at the time. My latest solo (Salathe Wall), I chose the Grigri 2019 (also called by some Grigri 3 and named Grigri by Petzl, available as of today). Thanks for your question!

[@brianrodman1033]

Do you think El Mudo offers benefits over the Soloist? Hadn’t seen the version 3 yet. Cool to see that he’s advancing things (that’s the biggest reason I purchased one, to support his efforts). Hoping that the next version is designed to work with 11mm ropes. I’ve got a new Blue Water Enduro that is definitely thicker than some devices like.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

I doubt the Mudo ever works with 11mm ropes. You could try the original LOV3 (with disabled rubber), the Revo, the Soloist. Maybe the Goblin. Maybe a HUR original grigri. Get my online course and I will help you in person to get the setup you deserve (if it exists!) blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/

[@namelastname2449]

Please when will you do a test?

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

I already did some test. Maybe you want to know when the Mudo will be in my online course? I typically climb on a device for a month (at least) before I am ready to teach it. But note that it could also never happen if I don't find how to use it in a way that I find safe enough, efficient and enjoyable. Also it could take more time if I need to acquire a new rope!!! Makes sense?

[@namelastname2449]

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing 🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽🎯

[@namelastname2449]

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing im talking to Manuel to order one

[@TknJn]

V.Sad that in the high quality photographs on StoneCrag, there are no kN ratings or equiv test standard. hopefully on V4!

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

You would like to see a MBS on it? Let me tell you the rope will break before the device. The thicker the rope, the stronger you can expect. Also at least 8kN is required to start damaging the rope so I believe it is good for a factor 2 fall by a climber of 100kg.

[@TknJn]

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing thats encouraging! are you referring to the double fisherman's bend loop or the climbing rope? i'm also hoping that the manufacturer pops some realistic figures on their hardware. The improvements on the pin retention look good, how well do you think 2 side by side would work? decent that it will LS&TRS in same config. :-j

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@@TknJn I need to get my Mudo system together to make it safe enough, efficient and enjoyable. It will require some time. First: the rock season has to open up and then I need one or two months. I estimate I will publish my recommendations in the LRS course around end of May.

[@namelastname2449]

Yann, I think that it has future as a braking device like the asap

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Using the ASAP as a backup of the Mudo? I think you are right. It could work well

[@namelastname2449]

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing well, aren’t you fast! I hadn’t thought of that! I meant that the mudo could be a product replacement for the ASAP plus it lets you rappel too. Asap breaks the sheath, this thing (for what I have heard from other forums and yours, some UK, some US) doesn’t fray the rope until past 8kN? Don’t take my word for it. I will get one, will test it with dead loads and send you the vids by cloud for your appreciation.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@@namelastname2449 Problem is the Mudo can have more friction than I would like for the use. But that may be a good idea... I get surprises very often with new rope solo techniques.

[@andrewhunter6536]

What certifications does the device have? I don’t even know if there is an en norm for lead rope solo devices

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

No certification. Use at your own risk ;-). Seriously the device is a strong one. My pull test confirm this.

[@namelastname2449]

First! And was looking for El Mudo!!!

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Yes you are the first! Thanks for being a "top fan" 🙂

[@VAN_production.mp4]

Would you recommend it for lead rope solo device? 😁

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

The Mudo 3 can be a good choice for a LRS device. I recommend an additional system to secure the device in the closed position (see my online course). And the rope pairing is very important I recommend a Sterling 9.4 or 9.6 mm with the XEROS technology. These ropes are smooth!!! (Read soft) and work best with the Mudo 3.0. Note there is 1h of vidéo specifically on the Mudo in my online course!!!

[@VAN_production.mp4]

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing thank you! I had in mind to order that course 😁 One more question… can you sort silent partner, soloist and el Mudo 3 from safest to least safest?

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@@VAN_production.mp4 not really!! Each has pros and cons and can be dangerous if used wrong!!! But usually people agree that the Silent Partner is the safest. Mudo and Soloist need backup knots or another backup system 100% because an inverted fall means big consequences. Makes sense?

[@user-qt9kp8wo5z]

Эти зажимы будут хороши, когда будет сдвоенная верёвка. Я хрдмл одиночку.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

You want to climb LRS with two ropes?

[@user-qt9kp8wo5z]

Два последовательно действцющих звжимных цстройств изыестно, но с оговорёнными условиями

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

I don’t understand your comment… sorry!