How To Build Low Noise Tube Amp Turret Boards - W.I.S.C - GT5 'Halcyon' Build 2

[@kaseysimons128]

Respect for the amount of work put into just EDITTING this video together. Both the physical build of the board and video creation for this is are straight but amp tech porn. So well done.

[@giulioluzzardi7632]

I am shure you don't need more compliments but you deserve more just for keeping calm and designing those fab lolly-stick pincers, you just need all the help you can get when preparing and soldering . Nice work Man.

[@ekbanjosworld4926]

Dude! Your attention to detail is off the scale! So glad I found your channel and website! I'm in the middle of setting up my bench. After that I'm restoring a complete system of Dynaco ST70/PAS-3/FM-3, then recapping the crossover on a vintage set of Dynaco A25's. After that, total restoration of my Luxman PD-72 TT. But my very first project is a combo Isolation transformer/Variac/Current Limiter! I really liked your layout technique, I'll be using that! I've built several guitars and switched out pups. Building an amp to go with the guitars is sweet ! Thanks for your time, much appreciated!

[@elams1894]

Youre welcome Ek! Thanks for checking in.

[@matthewf1979]

Ive been building/working on tube amps for years and I tried out your heater wire routing(last video) on a few amps. Absolutely decimated the 60 cycle hum in my tweed amps. Thank you!!

[@elams1894]

Thats fantastic! Glad to hear Matt, indeed it makes a monster difference when you get it right. I was wiring it wrong for so long until my father set me straight. Cheers!

[@mastopage3120]

Can you please explain on the heater wire routing ?

[@ekbanjosworld4926]

I'm planning on getting all the plan packs. Nothing beats a clean Point-to-point! Science meets art! KUDOS!

[@elams1894]

Thanks Ek! Much appreciated

[@sheep1ewe]

Those are clearly the most beautiful electronic builds i ever seen in modern time! Thank You for still making those wonderful videos!

[@elams1894]

Thats very kind. Ha ha, im sure there are better jobs out but I do appreciate your kind words! Cheers

[@bbmade]

This is brilliant. I can only imagine how long the video took to put together. Work of art in my opinion.

[@elams1894]

Really appreciate it bb!. Indeed, the video took maybe 4 x as long as the build part. Something like 350 clips, however i'm finding the video and editing side almost as enjoyable as the build. Cheers!

[@bbmade]

@@elams1894 The video looked as great as the amp.

[@colinlizc4603]

That was really good - slow, methodical well explained, calm, logical, well filmed, easy to follow. I loved your labelling of the components. Great work, I’ll look forward to more on this, or wherever you go along these line. If you leave it there, what you have already done is enough in itself! Ta .

[@colinlizc4603]

Whoops, you HAVE done more! Now to have a look at that . . .

[@elams1894]

Your most welcome, glad you enjoyed it. I have a 6V6 jcm800 build with free plans coming soon, but alas, due to my over the top OCD, it's taken me about 18 months to do this project. But nearly finished. Cheers

[@GregsGarage]

I love the thoughtful approach. I still have your amp plans squirreled away. Every couple months I hunt a few parts for it.

[@elams1894]

Thanks Greg! Hope you are doing good over there. Love you alloy machine vids, very cool. I want one but my wife says otherwise ha ha.

[@MadScientistGuitarLab]

This is a masterclass of in turret-board assembly. I wish I was this patient. I’m still near the “dogs breakfast” level.

[@elams1894]

Thanks Bill! It may be just a case of my OCD ha ha. Cheers!

[@epi2045]

Thank you for adding intelligence and craftsmanship into a world that cares about 15 second TikToks.

[@elams1894]

Thank you! well said!

[@epi2045]

@@elams1894 I worked in an electronics manufacturing “sweatshop” at the age of 12. Probably shortened my life a few years from the heavy burning of flux. They handed me a soldering iron, bottle of flux, and a wet sponge and said go! I probably soldered close to 300-500K connections. That was long ago and now I’m in AI and business development. Your level of detail, care, and mindfulness makes me want to pickup a soldering iron again and make something beautiful and meaningful this time around. All your videos are a great contribution to humanity. Cheers!🍻

[@joeltunnah]

Very nicely filmed and you obviously put an enormous amount of time and work into this. The only criticism I would make is, I was taught by the old timers 40 years ago, and they never bent leads without supporting the lead at the component. In other words, you hold the lead with pliers where it meets the component, then use another pair of pliers (or your fingers) to bend the lead. That way you don't stress the lead/component connection joint. And yes I have seen resistors pull apart from their leads. Cheers, and happy building.

[@elams1894]

Very wise words indeed. It definitely pays to protect the joint of the component lead. I've had a few break myself. Thanks Joel, much appreciated.

[@Roy-xe9is]

This is next-level attention to detail. Can't wait to buy a couple of his plans.

[@philipharris2273]

I am deeply sympathetic with the methods demonstrated here

[@elams1894]

Thanks Philip! I'm more in favour of field theory rather than a particle based model. Particles interacting in some way to create an electrical system just doesn't seem plausible in my opinion. Good for math, but not for wisdom. Have a great day!

[@davekimball3610]

Such awesome cinematography. Just purchased the entire 5 watt plan pack, even though I already had the Mark 1, but why not? Great to see new stuff coming out.

[@elams1894]

Thanks so much Dave! Much appreciated!

[@ЮрийПанченко-п8б]

Восхитительное видео. Очень профессионально и с любовью к технике, подан материал. Очень доходчиво, спокойно и красиво показаны все этапы изготовления изделия. Даже плавно идущий дым от жала паяльника, говорит о том насколько высокий уровень мастера, который заботится о температуре жала паяльника, позволяющего выполнять такую качественную пайку. Спасибо огромное за великолепный материал, любовь к творчеству и технике. Успехов Вам в ваших делах, творческой энергии и здоровья.

[@kevindemelo4878]

Amazing choice of high quality components. The build is beautiful. The little Vishay Sprague Atom capacitors. Insane film caps wooow. And those Red resistors look like PRP. Just an amazing build.

[@elams1894]

Thanks Kevin!

[@montygore1200]

I just found you on youtube. That is the most wonderful build I have seen. I have subscribed and will be watching more of your videos.

[@elams1894]

Thanks Monte!

[@dmcaudio808]

With simple tools this video takes us back in time..

[@petedazer3381]

Your precision and skill levels are off the charts! Excellent!

[@VAdu56]

superb report on the assembly of this amp and the minucie to achieve a perfect job electrically and to the eye ... !! Well done !

[@elams1894]

Thanks Vincent!! Really appreciate it!

[@voa.aquino]

It's like an ASMR, but way better!

[@elams1894]

Thanks Vin!

[@somebodyx]

The immaculate construction approach is for visual pleasure, mechanical reliability, serviceability. Electrically it guarantees nothing, one small ground return path error and it will buzz as any.

[@elams1894]

It really is up to the individual builder. If one ensures that significant magnetic fields have the least possible chance of induction, then that is your goal. How you achieve that goal is up to you. I prefer neatness and attention to detail, others not so much, and to each their own.. as with anything in life.

[@grundunterrecording4197]

Holy cow, that is one clean build. Thoroughly impressed over here!

[@Rodedog55]

Thank you immensely! You're very easy to watch and follow along with and the information you are sharing is greatly appreciated !

[@mikemartin6554]

What an absolutely MARVELOUS video and project! So relaxing and interesting!

[@DYI_SEBASTIEN]

As always, meticulous and patient...great video !

[@elams1894]

Glad you enjoyed it Tempbond, much appreciated!

[@JJGuccione]

Incredibly sanitary build • Hat's off! Thanks

[@NeverTalkToCops1]

Brilliant separation of DC signals from AC wiring.

[@elams1894]

Thank you!

[@jernejkurincic9050]

This surely looks beautiful! Great work! And the video itself is so soothing ... But I've noticed some dubious practices: - mechanically stressing solder joints, eg. in a vice (main ground connector) is a bad idea (also it doesn't make much sense in preventing it touching the chassis, it's just an inch earlier than at the screw) - you take extreme care bending the leads of resistors (which are pretty solid inside), but freely bend ElAl leads (which are quite fragile inside) - makes no sense. Caps are the first ones which need very gentle touch and solid grip by the enclosure when doing the bending, every time. Also, can caps are good exactly for a reason they can be very close to the tube - if you place them there. They enable you to have both sides very close to the tube they provide ground and DC to. Or, really one component far in most cases (plate and cathode resistors). - using ground bus is generally not a low noise practice; if the wires leading to it are so long as in this circuit it gets even worse. The layout here could and should be much better for a low noise build. More important than the circuit looking tidy is taking in account some common sense layout practices - short and thought through grounding being one of the most important.

[@elams1894]

Thanks for your reply. Some good points. Resolder any stressed joints indeed. Try not to stress leads of capacitors is a good practice, yes. I dissagree with you regarding your earth theory, particularly with regard to can caps. Introducing multiple earth points on the chassis, as you have suggested using can cap earths, close to the tubes is not recommended. There should only be, at most, two earth points, one for the audio (or even preamp only) and one for the power circuit (sometimes including PI and tonestck). Earth is earth. It matters not how long the earth cable is, however it matters where the earth is located. Multiple earth points introduce multiple points at which the magnetic field is eliminated, which absolutely causes unwanted noise points all over your chassis. Hence it is far adventageous if the magnetic field is eliminated in one place only, away from the tubes. Having a high frequency, large amplitude magnetic field (as in can caps) eliminated next to a tube is the last place you want it, as the high frequency is amplified through your tube. I agree that a well thought out earth plan is essential, however certainly not with multiple earths as you have suggested. Using a bus is a good idea as the axial electrolytic capacitors act as an interim star point, and neatly introduce one earth potential away from the tubes. Cheers.

[@jernejkurincic9050]

@@elams1894 You got me wrong here. Old practice to connect ground to chassis on filter caps is far from being noiseless friendly. No, you run cathode resistor (with eventual cap) directly to cancap minus pole), and from there run wire to starground point - and there it connects to chassis /earth (I differentiate earth and ground here to be clear about it). So each segment is a star in itself and those segments form another star; it may sound complicated, but tube amps generally have very simple circuitry, so it's easily achievable with some planning. Older cancaps were made in a way that they were mounted via flaps with soldering, negative directly to the chassis - newer ones are mounted in such a way they can be isolated from the chassis (and they should be). My reference in this field is "Valve Wizard"'s article on the topic, www.valvewizard.co.uk/Grounding.pdf This approach has never failed me. Long ground wires in your design are calling for potential to develop over them. Cancap in direct vicinity of the end of cathode resistor (resistors in double triode design) can also be pretty close to the input jack and ends of shield sleeves, so you have all the preamp grounded in a breeze with minimal wiring. Axial caps, because of their size, introduce long wire and component runs, so they are not really noiseless friendly. For the illustration, a snip from my unfinished project (components are further apart here for clarity and the wires made longer). mega.nz/file/vwd1zDSS#KGw6Pkmuuo74GfHo4ysNbKehVT_2TAFZkm7j9IZKIV0 The only downside of it all is it can get pretty crowded doing it that way ...

[@elams1894]

@@jernejkurincic9050 I think, from reading your post, you are most concerned about axial caps in comparison to can caps, with regard to earth wire length. From studying your linked diagram, our layouts are the similar. That is, the cathode resistor earth lead goes to electrolytic star ground. From a schematic (and magnetic field theory) point of view, it does not matter the length of the cathode resistor earth lead, as long as it goes to electrolytic star ground. This is because they are the same point. They are connected. Magnetic field elimination is exactly the same across the whole lead length (they are at the same potential as this star ground point also is connected to earth, let's say at input). There is no time difference as mag field elimination is instantaneous. Potential cannot develop across this lead as it is earth, and earth is earth. Even if your dual triode cathode resistor leads were short, and connected to a can cap star ground, as you have illustrated, you will still need another cable to eventual earth at input, or wherever. If the resistor lead were somehow looped, then the loop will form a larger magnetic field, and as Merlin Valve Wizard states, avoid loops are not good and must be avoided at all cost. If you have managed a layout that enables you the shortest earth leads possible in a star ground formation, then that is great as you have achieved the best possible layout. If can caps enable you to achieve this more effectively, then absolutely fantastic as I have no issues with can caps used in this way. I prefer to use axial caps as it enables me to reach a compromise between neatness and sound earthing. In conclusion I think we are achieving the same goal, however you perhaps are achieving a more robust grounding plan due to the use of can caps and that's great. Everything in tube amp building is a compromise and no path is simple that is for certain. Thanks for your input, you obviously give this a great deal of thought.

[@DeathCapAmplification]

Again the master of beautiful, clean, and patient amp builds creates another masterpiece. I really love your videos man. I build dozens of amps and while people compliment me all the time on my clean builds, they are nothing like your standards. Just amazing work. I really appreciate you sharing these videos. It’s quite an inspiration for really nice and clean builds. Cheers bro

[@elams1894]

Thats very kind of you to say thanks Mike, glad you enjoyed the vids. The neat and tidy process was drilled into by my father from early on so I guess its in the genes ha ha. Thanks again Mike and have a good one!!

[@DeathCapAmplification]

@@elams1894 you’re welcome man. You do amazing videos. Your close ups are amazing. You have the patience of a saint to video this stuff while building this detailed. Someday I might get into making videos of my builds but I just need to find the patience and time for the video part of it as well. Thanks for sharing. I hope more people subscribe to your channel. This is super helpful.

[@elams1894]

@@DeathCapAmplification Indeed the videography and audio in particular take forever, way longer than the building ha ha. But I'm learning all the time and every vid is a challenge, but the video side is most rewarding, thanks again Mike and best of' for your own builds!!

[@vaguitarts3443]

Nice to hear you again!

[@elams1894]

Thanks VA! and thanks for stopping by again, much apprecited!

[@Auen73]

omg.......this was so pleasing/relaxing to watch. Glorious artistry

[@TakamiWoodshop]

bloody awesome mate - I'll have to go back and watch the series!

[@elams1894]

Thanks heaps Rob! Hope you are going well and thanks for stopping by again, have a good one!

[@justinsixx90]

Wpw that is a work of art!! Im playing to give a kit a go. I'm very overkill and methodical when building things so I only have to do it once. So thank you for the inspiration friendo!!

[@elams1894]

Thanks for kind words Justin. I'm the same, a bit OCD actually, but it's a fun ride. All the best.

[@R0W57]

I love this clean and straight Layout and Building.👍👍👍🌞

[@erikbouma4184]

Why u bend all caps legs/leads under stress? l like give them free expansion,when gets hot in the Tube Amp. A good example is like Audio Research Tube Amp's en my self. Video is good learning! Grt Erik

[@elams1894]

It's good to leave a bit of wiggle room. Having said, I e never had any problems associated with caps with straight leads on turrets. If you want to include a z bend, go for it.

[@erikbouma4184]

@@elams1894 hallo elams, iam not agree! in ur video at 12.06 min. u bent the legs again with a tool, thats 100% stress. overall have a nice Diy! grts Erik

[@erikbouma4184]

When yu stripping the Clarity cap isolation, again stress the foil in th video 😢.

[@Mikey__R]

There are so many good tips in this video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

[@elams1894]

Thanks Mikey!

[@rickg8015]

Hi, looks great.. But shouldn’t the leads of the R’s and C’s have a bit of slack relative to their bodies, so they won’t get brittle in time, through constant on/off cycling (heating up and cooling down), expanding and retracting? Thanks..

[@billfog393]

Thinking the same, a little z bend.

[@elams1894]

I try to leave a tiny bit of slack in the lead around the turret before soldering. The most stress is placed on the lead of the component when wrapping the lead around a turret with too much tension, or leverage off the turret. If you are careful at this stage of turret wrapping then the expansion and contraction becomes minimal in my opinion. I have never had to change a component due to expansion contraction issues. I have, however, killed many a component with over vigorous lead wrapping. Z bend is also good option if really concerned.

[@VesselForHonor]

This was very relaxing, but also very informative

[@elams1894]

Glad it was of interest, cheers

[@AUDIOETRADIOATUBES]

absolutly clean and fine point to point wiring

[@bbjib]

Fine job, good explanation. 16 minutes of pleasure.

[@120Crate]

Broo, just found a new ASMR channel, why learning always turns to sleeping what the heck))

[@MichaelRusso]

Takumar lens. Yes! Nice and neat. Love it!

[@REFLAR_LAB]

Hello dear Elams! It's nice to see your work. Very good and accurate.

[@mastopage3120]

Love the way you work. Great job of precision.

[@ServiceOrchestramegastore]

man!! I call it work of art! thanks for shearing this

[@albertoolmos21]

Single-side PCBs are normally used for the main connections (GND and PWR mainly). Lightweight, in particular replaceable, components such as diodes and resistors are inserted into the hole of the junction turrets, which also serve as power spacers.

[@moodyga40]

love sozo caps using in my valve phono preamp build

[@elams1894]

I agree, They are fantastic caps. I have found that they have superior note separation to others that I have tried. I wouldn't have believed there was that much of a difference until I made my experiments. i was surprised. I'm interested to try the ClarityCaps. This will be the first time I try them.

[@alheeley]

Work of art - a pleasure to watch :)

[@marcsmithsonian9773]

Very neat builid, but I sae you wrap components leads around the binding posts, but did you solder them after ? Other way those metals will oxydize with time

[@elams1894]

Yes, wrapped and soldered. Cheers

[@SandalGuy1]

Why did you add screws to the top of the used turrets? Great video. Thank you.

[@elams1894]

The screws hold the turrets together while soldering. They can be removed, or left in for strength. I now use 2.5mm brass machines bolts for the tall turret posts. It's cheaper and more practical. However, both work well. The added mass of the bolt and extra turret does not appear to affect inductance.

[@sonhouse9636]

Beautifully filmed and done.

[@elams1894]

Thank you!

[@alexandertorrente198]

I honestly have started building on circuit boards, they are much less noisy, prevent complexities that turret boards have, and are in general much more durable. many companies offer some insanely good ones, I recommend headfirst, or c3.

[@greggodonnell6938]

hey, just to chime in about diodes. You can save a lot of money on high speed diodes by putting one high speed diode after a 1n4007 bridge, or you can also use snubbing before the first filter cap to remove switching noise. One extra diode also works as a safety feature if something blows.

[@moses1202]

this is so satisfying to watch

[@dmark2639]

Beautiful construction! Question: the taller turrets - are they just 2 normal turrets screwed together?

[@elams1894]

Yes, two turrets with a 2 mm bolt through them. Cheers

[@moodyga40]

great videos just love them so fun to watch please keep making them

[@elams1894]

Thanks Ian! Will do!

[@brentstewart59]

That is some beautiful work right there. Well done

[@fantummenelkinstruments1959]

Gosh this is some pretty wiring! Well done!

[@cosmicray007]

you are doing the lords work :) Thank you

[@qddk9545]

THAT is a very neat layout. For my next build I have bought 50 uF 600v SCR MKP caps for the PSU. They are quite large, but possible to fit in.

[@gabet3754]

Brilliant. Surgical approach

[@elams1894]

Thank you!

[@jonnybeck6723]

Thanx mang... so glad you found me

[@elams1894]

Any time!

[@nymsmacgregor7232]

This is very well done....top of the line video. Nyms.

[@jimcastillo8950]

Great work!!!! Built like a tank.................

[@Beelzybud]

Well done. That's some beautiful wiring.

[@blacktoothgriner]

Zen... pure love and expression.

[@elams1894]

Really appreciate it, thank you!

[@kfirlavi7674]

Thanks for your very informative video. Everything looks very tidy. Looking forward for your next vid. tnx

[@elams1894]

Thanks KL! Really appreciate it!

[@juanh9350]

Great video, by any chance you have an schematic like this for a JCM800? With those red and blue magnetic fields indicators?

[@elams1894]

Yes I do by chance. Email me at [e-mail] and I'll send them to you.

[@2thewakeup]

This is so amazing, wow, beautiful video!

[@elams1894]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@hugeshows]

Nice build! You may wish to connsider switching to stranded wires at least for tube sockets and any terminals that move. Solid core wires have been knowm to fatigue and crack when subjected to movement. For this reason I avoid mounting leaded components directly to sockets as well.

[@elams1894]

I use solid core for filaments and hookup. I use stranded for shielded cable as I find shielded cable for the reasons you have stated. I find there is enough slack in the socket lugs to avoid any issues with component leads. Cheers

[@Xsheaffer]

Solid core sounds better.

[@roblegrange473]

love this channel.

[@elams1894]

Thanks Rob!

[@Sojourner-ql6du]

You are a master! Thank you for sharing.

[@AntonioCavicchioni]

Pure art!

[@elams1894]

Thank you Antonio!

[@fer_fdi]

Excellent and very enjoyable, thank you!

[@brevrbjork]

Brilliant videos! It's hard to determine size from the extreme closeups, but the turrets are obviously bigger than the ones from Tube Depot if you can fit a 2M screw through them. So what are they and where can I buy them?

[@elams1894]

Thanks Per. The turrets are the slightly bigger ones that are designed to fit 3mm turret board. Check the info in the description as that contains the ID number for the turret on AmplifiedParts.com. The website, for whatever reason, wont allow me to make a link directly to the page, however the ID number will get you there, cheers.

[@diabolicalartificer]

Big fan of your work, fettling par excellence, keep up the good work. BTW where do you source your turrets? ....DA

[@elams1894]

Really appreciate it DA! I used to get my turrets from Watts Tube Audio but that website is discontinued. The same turrets can now be obtained from AmplifiedParts.com - Item ID 040351. Pack of 10 costs about $4:50. I found the original manufacturer at one stage but couldn't make contact, I must try again.

[@inerlogic]

I don't play guitar, and have no need for a guitar amp.... but MAN i want to build one of these....

[@hennypoort9395]

I would like to make a drawing of a turretboard like the ones you show in your posts, is there a special program you use for this or could you recommend one? Maybe a nice item for a post?

[@elams1894]

Mostly I use Google Draw, in the Google Drive suite, free. I also use Inkscape (also free) and occasionally Photoshop to cut out images. However almost exclusively I use Google Draw. Cheers

[@shaolongli4719]

It’s great, how can I own such an artwork?

[@tennivarghese867]

Amazing bro.. Amazing.. Congratulations. 👌👌

[@masuiiguitars]

Please do a video demo with the epic one piece LP once finished😍

[@elams1894]

Thanks G! I would prefer to demo it with the Saturn, but 'Bad News Brown' will have to do ha ha. I have a mate who can play and I'll tee up a demo with him for sure, cheers!

[@masuiiguitars]

@@elams1894 if it wasn't for the overkill price I'd ship that fucker to you tomorrow... Bad news brown is a killer name 😂

[@WilliamCharlesShaver]

Interesting that you didn’t route the filament heater wires down into the tube pins-it appears that you wired them flat to the chassis. Uncle Doug is a big proponent of routing the heater leads above and across the tube sockets. Do you notice any difference?

[@elams1894]

Routing them from above is a good idea. However I dont route them that way because I find that the filament wires get in the way of the other components of the tube socket and I end up touching the insulation with my iron. I route them flat against chassis to get them away from my iron. Routing from above is great though, if you can do it. There shouldnt be any major difference unless the filaments are twisted and connected incorrectly. Cheers

[@nathangray2928]

What's your go to solder? Love the attention to detail!

[@elams1894]

Thank you! I use Stannol, Kristall 511, 60/40 1.0mm and sometimes 0.7mm. Cheers

[@goodun2974]

At 1:50, referencing the Facom needle nose pliers, I also like to have a second set of needle nose with the spring that pushes the jaws apart removed; further, I add a rubber band around the handles, behind the pivot point, to keep the jaws *closed*, so that the pliers will hold onto parts or jumpers without you keeping hand pressure on the pliers. Especially handy for placing parts when doing *repairs*; perhaps helpful for new amp builds as well. (BTW, latching hemostats suck for placing parts, unless you cut off the latch mechanism and add the rubber band as mentioned above). Wire CUTTERS, however, should always be spring loaded to push the jaws open, IMHO.....

[@elams1894]

Thanks for that, some good tips. I'll steal the rubber band trick thank you, that's a good one, cheers!!

[@ford1546]

very good. One thing I do NOT like about the way you attach the capacitors is if there is any movement in the pcb. card then you get a lot of stress on the component legs and it also affects the soldering. if you mount them upright in the usual way where both legs are on one side, you will not have this problem. Always when I mount a cable inside a box, I have a little slack in the cable.

[@elams1894]

That is why I don't use PCB's, cheers

[@deangale4496]

Beautiful work

[@elams1894]

Cheers!!

[@vibrolax]

People who claim that tube gear is less reliable than transistor/ic great have probably never seen or used tube gear made on proper turret boards with high reliability lead handling and soldering techniques. Harry Joyce era Hiwatt amps are an example of a consumer product built like this. I've been building on turret boards for 20 years using a layout method developed by Doug Hoffman (el34world).

[@giulioluzzardi7632]

The Hiwatt 100 custom was my 1st band amp(overkill), it handled everything thrown at it till( me being absent) some-one used a guitar lead as a speaker lead which among other things rang the final bell on that work of art, it went out with a giant blue flash which was remarked upon for years afterwards. I also think our rehearsal space(a dress making factory) was wired for industrial machines but in the cheap, the place burned down a few months later. Have'nt seen an amp as well made since 1981.

[@vibrolax]

@@giulioluzzardi7632 Unloaded output transformer is a common cause of premature death worth tube amps. It's still easy to repair.

[@joeltunnah]

I don't think anyone is claiming tube equipment is less reliable than SS because of layout or wiring method. What they're usually referring to is the tubes themselves, which are somewhat fragile and now quite expensive. It's hard to argue against that. But I'd much rather service a tube amp than a SS amp built on a pcb with tiny SMD components.

[@Mikey__R]

You can toast an electrolytic capacitor if you wire it too close to a cathode bias resistor, either on PCB or turret board. I'd say it's probably easier to design a good layout on PCB, because it doesn't cost extra time or money to use longer tracks to separate components. But I do agree with the above, they can be far harder to modify and service. I've got a hybrid Trace Elliott that needs fixing and I'm not looking forward to cracking that one open.

[@glfaudiorcscales9748]

Awesome. Nice job.

[@elams1894]

Thank you!!

[@engulfaudioable]

Can you build me one for my horn speakers? What's your website?

[@elams1894]

Hi AG. I just have the plans up on the website (elamscafeboutique.com) at the mo. Sometime in the future I'll look at custom builds but two wee kiddies take all my time at present. Many thanks!

[@motoputz3201]

like watching a surgeon performing heart surgery ...thanks for the video

[@elams1894]

Thank you!!

[@Nofarewell]

Just one observation: shouldn't the heater circuit be positioned higher to avoid hum due to lower position (close to the chassis)?

[@elams1894]

What influence would the chassis have on the large magnetic field of the filament winding (AC)?

[@Nofarewell]

⁠@@elams1894it would create more hum if the heater circuit touches the chassis (although your build is near perfect, so it might not affect it anyway.) I realized that this might be more valid to high gain amps. So pardon my intrusion. I'd be happy if I could build half a beautiful design. 🙂

[@elams1894]

@@Nofarewell No probs on the question as magnetic fields are of high interest to me. You are certainly not alone in reasoning for physically elevated filament cables. My father built every one of his amps that way. The main reason I don't have filaments coming from above is that, imo, there is more chance of hum induction from the filaments to the sensitive parts of the socket with elevated filaments. I find routing filaments toward the edge of the socket, on the chassis suits my design better. Would be keen to hear of your observations or experience of chassis routing filaments however, as it's all relevant indeed. Thanks for kind words, and good question.

[@Nofarewell]

@@elams1894 Absolutely. I have limited experience in diy tube guitar amps, I am planning one high gain amp build now. The previous one had this bad kind of hum and the heater circuit was definitely touched the chassis, while the tube preamp/poweramp circuit were elevated. Although this issue alone wasn't the main culprit 🙂 I have been advised about this in a forum somewhere and it stuck; it might not only be the chassis that interferes, but the anode/cathode/grid cables. You can find this design in older Fender models too where the pre/power amp cables touch the chassis, while the heater circuit is elevated. Sorry if I don't use the adequate words, English is not my first language. Otherwise you might cannot imagine how helpful this series of yours. Invaluable info on how to solve circuitry issues. 🤲 Thought I'd bring this topic to light here, if it contributes to anything positive, then it wasn't for nothing.

[@elams1894]

@@Nofarewell Thanks for info, it all helps, very interesting. I asked my dad yesterday (hes 85 now, he worked as a chief sound engineer for TV New Zealand) why he elevated his filament cables above the sockets. He said that many of the large tube amps they imported from England at the time (1950's) had major ground loop issues and as a result the currents of which manifested in the chassis and effected the filament windings, ultimately ending up in the signal circuit. Elevating the filaments was an easier fix than correcting the earthing of the amp. He said that ideally of course you dont want any earthing issues at all. Ground loops should be avoided at all cost. He got so used to elevating filaments in tube amps, he ended up just building that way. So ground loop issues are definitely something to try to avoid. In my experience, grounding the tone stack, phase inverter, and the rest of the power amp near the mains socket, with preamp grounded at the signal input jack, works well to avoid ground issues in larger push pull amps. The tonestack may well be grounded at either position but you have to find which is best. However for me, two earth points only should exist in a tube amp. Alas, everything in tube amp building is a compromise as every little thing effects every other little thing. Thats the fun I guess. All the best with your builds, thanks for input.

[@DavideZanellaDrum]

Thanks 4 sharing. Very useful

[@timmysvensson4902]

His pdf complilation, does it give a list where to buy parts etc? And if so is it based in usa or Europe?

[@BCEpedals]

why the choice to not go with shunting input jacks??

[@elams1894]

I dont bother with shorting jacks on smaller amps, neither input nor speaker out, however I would probably use one on a larger gigging amp. Completely up to you of course. Using shorting jacks on the speaker output is either/or for me. Shorting both sides of an OT is just as bad as having no load imo. Either option is bad for an extended period as I'm sure you know. You can get away with no load, or dead short, for a limited time with no signal generated, however if you play your guitar and crank it with no load, its bad news. Great question though. Cheers

[@thijs199]

Hey Geoff, the BY228, it's faster than the UF4007. Why would I want a fast rectifier?

[@karafarinperesentati]

over kill in deed. but amazing attention to details. good job

[@elams1894]

Thanks Alex! cheers

[@luisludwiktecnicoeletronic5516]

I Am front Brazil. is very good!!

[@whatskraken3886]

Are you going to make a video delving into the theory of capacitors? By the way, amazing video. 11/10.

[@elams1894]

Thanks for kind words. Re capacitor theory.. I could go into it, however my theory is not mainstream, so I doubt it would be well received, unfortunately. However I'm contemplating it. Cheers