Electric guitar neck pocket cracks: my experience so far...

This short-ish video looks at neck pocket cracks - the scourge of just about all bolt-necked guitars bought online. If they mention them at all, sellers tend to describe them as 'superficial lacquer cracks'. Yeah, right.
In this video I share my experience of 'neck pocket cracks' - focusing on a lovely old Sunn Mustang strat that I bought specifically because the neck pocket was so cracked the neck was practically hanging off. I'd got so sick of getting guitars with these cracks that I decided it was time to explore ways of fixing them.
As it happens, I was able to inject glue into all the cracks and clamp them with the result that the neck pocket is now solid and the guitar is a classic (with a couple of fret levellings over the last couple of years).

[@DecapitatedPlaythings]

In my experience through the years as a owner, collector, and builder is that most neck pocket cracks have been only superficial lacquer cracks. I've sanded down many fender, ernie ball, charvel, and Jackson bolt on guitars from the lacquer down to the naked wood and found zero cracks in the actual wood. Keep in my mind that I'm not saying it can't happen, I'm just commenting on my own history with guitars. Have a good day..

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

I appreciate you sharing your experience & I take that on board. Do you have any impression from your years of doing it what makes the lacquer crack that way?

[@DecapitatedPlaythings]

Basically it's just tension in that area. Lacquer is very brittle to begin with.. It takes very little effort to get cracks in the neck joint.. I've seen $5000 guitars that are literally brand new off the assembly line have hairline clear coat cracks. It's very common in my experience. But like I said, I'm not saying it can't happen. Depending on the wood underneath the lacquer, like Basswood and Poplar, they are very soft woods that take no effort to damage. Maple on the other hand is a VERY hard wood that can take a beating.. I've seen solid maple body guitars have "typical" clear coat cracks as well and I know that the slab of maple underneath is just fine.. I also think of it as a numbers game.. Regardless if the guitar is new or used, "most" bolt on guitars have clear coat cracks. And if those cracks were really in the wood, you couldn't take the chance as a guitar maker to keep putting out a defective product. The cost of repair and bad word of mouth is something you can't afford..

[@jsowder19]

Decapitated Playthings Do you have experience with these cracks in set neck guitars? I.E Schecter C-1 ZV or a Dean Dave Mustaine explorer type body. I have these cracks in these two guitars in my collection. But they aren't bolted on. I know the neck is forced/shoved into the body for a snug fit before paint. Just looking for your take/experience. Thanks!

[@stringsattached67]

Decapitated Playthings yep I have a fender custom shop strat that has those neck crack's and it's just in the finish.

[@YeeThirty]

My 20$ Xcort had cracks, after sanding to bare wood.. nothing. Either way not too worried about it. If the instrument plays like it should then it doesnt matter.

[@sunnys3325]

The few guitars I have owned with little cracks in the corner hes talking about. All have been in the poly finish. Wood underneath was perfectly fine.

[@rv6205]

Thats interesting...do you think nitro cellulous laqure would also crack ?

[@DelScully]

@@rv6205 would crack easier technically! i wouldn't listen to this guy tbh... Most of these are stress cracks on the paint due to the wood from the neck and body expanding at different rates.. It seems to happen more commonly on guitars with vibrato units as well! There's a reason a massive majority of fenders and other bolt on necks will all eventually get this crack!

[@poet3309]

Great video! I have almost that same guitar he has. I have a crack at the top of the cutaway on both sides when I bought it. After watching this, I'm confident the cracks won't get worse unless I bang the instrument. I got a great deal on a beautiful guitar so I'm not worried. This video answered my questions about the cracks!

[@MaxGuitarsMN]

FWIW, I have collected guitars 30 years and never seen a crack into the wood -ever. The OP is partly correct but what you see is the stress crack in the finish where the wood "flexes" with enough force the wood would indeed crack but that would have to come from a bad thrashing on par with the WHO 1976!!! I also know Pat Wilkins who has finished and refinished guitars for decades and he would agree. These are not structural unless you are buying from Pete Townsend!

[@scottashe984]

You are stating that cracks form where the wood flexes and yet got are saying that they only appear when being beaten with intent. My guitar disagrees. And Pete hasn't been near my guitars nor my children.

[@fraterlemuele.s.l.d.6435]

The best question is,are neck pocket crack’s repairable based on your experience??Thanks!

[@immanuelsiregar7395]

15:26

[@tpeck111]

The cracks start in the wood and then split the paint, like you said. Thanks for making this video and telling it like it is.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

I have a foot in both camps; I agree that there are probably circumstances where stressed joints or expanding wood can crack lacquer without cracking the wood... but I also believe that a TON of so-called 'just finish cracks' have underlying wood cracks too. When all's said and done, the way to avoid finish cracks is NOT to stress the finish; the way to avoid wood cracks is to avoid stressing the wood.

[@kevinogorman7561]

Great video. One thing I would like to know is how serious these small cracks are in the long run. Has anyone had issues with the crack constantly expanding and eventually ruining the playability? Or does it tend to be cosmetic and playability remains unaffected. If these are indeed tools, you wouldn't get rid of a hammer because of a few dings and knicks.

[@HerbertN7]

I have 5 guitars and all off them have these cracks. A Fender Strat (a 1995, I have it with me for 14 years now and looks new), an ESP, Ibanez (new), and a crappy B.C Rich Warlock (Crappy but it is really nice to play). The fifth guitar is a Gibson Les Paul studio which has a straight crack where the neck meets the body (the crack goes around the neck, again, the crack is perfectly straight), cracks on both sides of the nut, and other really small cracks along the fretboard. So, I'm a believer that these cracks are only on the finish. First, because I'd be screwed if they are not... I'm not selling any of my guitars, never, I love them, but I want them to last... Second reason, I don't mistreat them and I barely play them. I play once or twice a year. They don't have a scratch anywhere else, all of them have their own cases and I keep them there. Anyway, not saying you're wrong, I just hope you are.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

I may well be wrong i.e. not every crack is structural but I'll bet you a lot are. The reason for this is that a) the human eye can't spot the cracks most of the time (leading to people saying 'no, no it's just in the lacquer') and b) the fit of two pieces of different kinds of wood in a neck pocket can be very tight...add a knock or over-tightening of the bolts and there's no doubt there's enough force there to split basswood... alder... agathis...etc. There's nowhere for the built-up forces to go except the places an engineer would predict - i.e. the corners of the pocket.

[@NeilTaylor1]

For what it’s worth, I’ve got a Telecaster copy with a neck crack on each side. It’s an old guitar, had a few bangs, these things happen. I stripped the paint back to the wood and the wood is indeed cracked. Clearly it does happen, and your explanations make perfect sense to me.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Lol I'll be the Paul Whitehouse 'Fast Show' character who changes his mind as soon as someone comes along with a distinct opinion "Yeah, those neck pockets cracks are always in the wood!" :-)

[@robertdogga2317]

I agree with you, but I think it is important to note that lacquer and wood have different breaking points and I would be inclined to assume that lacquer would deconstruct before wood. I concur that sharp 90 degree angles are asking for trouble, from an engineering perspective, but some of these cracks can be superficial.but at the end of the day, your right, a buyer must assume the material has been damaged.

[@lamontprospect9974]

Thank you for the excellent diagnosis and explanation. I recently spent 10 grand on a Gibson Flying V. When it arrived, there were some chips in the finish. Gibson instructed me to send it back to them so that they're Repair and Restoration Department could check it out. I packed up the guitar with the utmost of care (inside and out), and even had the original box put in an outer box to make sure everything was protected. 2 months later, I received the guitar back from Gibson WITHOUT the original box and no padding of any kind. They put it in an oversized restoration and repair box without any packing supplies whatsoever. The guitar came back in worse condition than when I sent it. If they don't straighten this out, there's going to be a real problem.

[@aidenzadorecky9049]

My epiphone les paul special has one neck pocket crack on each side is it possible to get them repaired?

[@stringsattached67]

Well I have a fender American standard that has a nitro black finish and has those crack's and both crack's are just in the finish. I know because I stripped it and refinished the body in another color .

[@jamesnorton3197]

I believe mechanical force acts on laquer just as much as it acts on wood. The laquer is either elastic enough to not be affected, or brittle enough that it is affected.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

You’re right, it does. Who knows exactly how accommodating the elasticity of wood and finish are when under compressive pressure (usually when a fractionally ill-fitting heel is pressed into a pocket and bolted tight)?

[@viralizatetc4497]

does it greatly affect the guitar? Does the crack have a simple or complicated solution? how do you recommend to solve this?

[@Deebz270]

I have just purchased such a guitar. A really beautiful Fender American Deluxe, with a very unusual cream pearlescent finish. Which the previous owner had heard, was quite possibly a Jeff Beck body, which conforms to the same structural design as the Deluxe range, with it's asymetric neck plate and screw fixing centres. Apparently, when Fender have run of standard Deluxe bodies, they raid the Jeff Beck line of bodies and purloin said body from the JB stock, to complete the quota on the Deluxe batch... So the theory goes. I must say, that I've seen quite a few Deluxes and not many with a cream pearlescent finish, so I'm prepared to go along with that notion, until I stand corrected, preferabley by some ex Fender worker. However, this guitar was being offered cheap. And the reason was, a crack that had 'brachiated' from the forward corner of the upper side of the neck pocket. This was the reasoning why, I went in search of a KZbin upload, to see what I could learn about cracks around the neck pocket, especially of Fender guitars. Although I've played quite a few Fenders during my life, I am relatively new to the 'nuts and bolts' of Fender guitars. I'm pretty experienced with GIbsons, PRS and Ibanez, but only recently been able to afford a real US made Fender, though I've had one or two Squires, one of which was a superb Telecaster. So Fender Deluxe is a new experience for me and I must say, tonally and playability wise, this is a peach of a guitar. I also purchased recently a Fender Std 'VG' (Roland Modelling) guitar, which although has considerable fret wear, is also a very nice instrument, for what is basically a plank of Ash bolted to a plank of maple. Getting back to the nub of the controversy... Thus *Sam,* I watched your video with keen interest. And found myself mostly agreeing with your technical perspective, although I was well ahead of you, regarding the Comet 90 degree window fatique syndrome sketch... But here is the thing... The DH 106 'Comet' - The worlds first jet airliner (first flight 1949...) was a pressurised *aluminium* tube, with square holes in it, the aforementioned window apertures, it was not made (unlike it's preceding stablemate and war hero - the Mosquito...) of wood! Aluminium is well known for its weak structural integrity, especially when subjected to repeated flexing and although all metals tend to fail at points where there are 90 degree angles involved, ally is by far the most succeptable to metal fatique. Maple, Ash or Alder, not so much... In fact, these woods have very high structural integrity, when compared to sheets of aluminium. And are certainly not subjected to severe changes in temperature and pressure, that the fusilage of a jet airliner would be. Now about that 'considerable force', excerted by the neck bolts.... This Deluxe arrived with its strings detensioned. I thus tuned it up, there was some creaking, but she tuned up nicely. Then I noticed that there was quite a gap between the upper face of the neck heel and the upper interface of the neck pocket. So much so, that I could easily place a plec, or finger nail into the gap... Oooh. That's not good. Yet the guitar kept its tuning as I then proceeded to play it for around four hours (obviously). She played beautifully... Though it seems now - God knows how.... After having watched your video and taken onboard, to a certain degree your assertion, that these cracks can only be caused by failure in the wood beneath the apparent cracking, I decided to give my new Deluxe a closer inspection. Which turned out to be quite revealing, albeit, slightly horrifying... But for all the *wrong* reasons. The first thing I did, was to *courageously* excert some lateral force on the beautiful neck, just to see what might flex in that pocket and to ascertain any change in that gap on the upper face... There was considerable movement. And the guitar went out of tune instantly... Hmm.... The gap visibly opened and closed as I flexed the neck laterally... But was this due to a crack in the wood of the neck pocket ? I decided to remove the neck screws and plate to have a closer inspection... But before I unwound the neck screws, I decided to check just how tight they were.... *They were not tight at all !* In fact, as I tried to tighten them, which in normal cases, would involve considerable torque, these just carried on turning... They were stripped... All four of them. No wonder the neck was flapping around. I removed all four screws and plate and disconnected the neck from the body. As I did so, I noted that the paint finish on the forward face of the pocket was loose. In fact, it had dried out, to such a degree and had obviously been subjected to some flexing, that it began to flake away. I decided to pick it all away with my finger nail... Which revealed the Ash beneath. I then turned to the 'brachiated' cracking on the upper face of the neck pocket (around the start of the upper cutaway...). I began flaking this away from the wood, which it did easily, as the adhesive properties of the paint had now failed... This revealed all the wood beneath the cracking. Just to be sure... I went and dug out my strong magnifying glass, to give that area a very close inspection. With all of the paint that had cracked now fully removed, revealing virgin Ash... I studied hard... No cracks in the wood, no failure of the 90 degree cornering to that neck pocket. In fact a close inspection of the entire pocket revealed that the body routing was *totally sound.* However, what it did note, was that the stunning pearlescent paint, was pretty thick - at least a millimeter of primer, pigment and poly lacquer... Which when set hard, would crack like glass, given any kind of forcing. The wood on the other hand, would have been totally okay as rudder to a yacht... The bit of paint that I flaked off, could actually be used as a plectrum! What caused my cracking - obviously every guitar might have a different story to tell - was that the neck screw holes were stripped, alowing the neck to impart lateral forcing on the edge of the paintwork, which being so thick, simply lifted and then cracked. None of the body work or especially the neck pocket were in the slightest bit compromised. So I breathed a sigh of relief, that at least the neck pocket and neck heel were stucturally sound, even though my beautiful paint job was now ruined. So Sam, you posit that in *EVERY* case that you, at least have encountered, there has been failure of the wood beneath, clearly means, you've just been very unlucky. So with that in mind, I would actually tend to agree more with the perspectives of *Decapitated Playthings* and that *Phlop Alopagus* is bang on the button, as I've now proved to you all. Now, I've got to find some dowel and plug the screw holes of that neck... Redrill and refasten the neck to the body. And then try and find some pearlescent paint that will match this lovely *intact* body! Alternatively, I can do, what I had orginally planned to do and just fit the Deluxe neck to the other 'VG' body and wire in the Deluxe S1 switching, in order to make an *Uber Doober-Deluxe Stratocaster* with more voices than a cathedral choir!

[@ozoneswiftak]

Deb your wood was compromised, it was the neck wood. Either way it moved and finish cracked. Now dowel your neck.

[@rrr00bb1]

i'm glad that there seems to be a consensus that this is only aesthetic. i bought a used flying v to send to a luthier, and when he got it, he showed me exactly one of these cracks on the bass side. but the fingerboard will be removed and replaced, and everything else given a closely checked setup and test. so i am not really freaked out by it, as long as the neck comes out nice and stable and the electronics are not noisy.

[@phlopalopagus]

I dont have a dog in this fight but why couldn't the same force that you say causes the cracks in the wood in the corner be the same force that cracks just the finish? The squeezing of the neck to the body would compress the wood. I can see the wood being able to handle this but not the finish. If for a test you took a square piece of wood and put a very thick finish on it and put it into a vise the wood could very well handle that but the finish would likely crack all the hell. I would agree that there very well could be a crack in the wood in many cases but also many cases where the force was just enough to crack the finish. I think my test if done with just a clear coat would show if thats the case as you would still be able to see if any damage was done to the wood or just the finish.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Good comment, point taken √

[@PaulGBass]

I think this is what's happened to my brand new one. It's an Ibanez, a mid range one with the Edge trem. It came with 2 small cracks on both sides of the neck. The cardboard box it came in is perfect so it's not been dropped. It has the inspection sticker on it (or did). The lacquer is too thick at the joint and lacquer is touching the neck not wood on wood. The cracks are 5mm one side and 10mm the other. The sides are clear lacquer and the wood is ash. I can't see any crack in the actual wood, but I've not taken the neck off. Also, unlike my two Floyd Rose equipped guitars this one stays in perfect tune. I record in my home studio for SoundCloud so it doesn't have to survive gigging. Having said that one of my cats just knocked it out of its guitar stand and it hit the floor with a bang. Result of this was the longer of the two lacquer cracks now looks 2mm or so longer than before...

[@nightfire540]

PaulGBass same with mine. Brand new rg550 genesis shocker yellow. Plays like a dream!

[@kentriley5837]

Great video!! I have a esp phoenix 1000 that is cracked at the backplate screw to the bottom side. I believe it mishandled during shipping. Definte wood crack and finish. I drop filled it best I could. I have a tele with a crack at the pocket. Was knocked over in the stand. I think most are from being knocked about. Do you think the wood cracks will spread?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Sorry for the late reply... if the wood IS cracked due to build up of pressure when the neck is tightened up into the pocket then, no, I very much doubt it will spread. Sometimes, cracks on bodies occur when the wood dries...and continues to dry in which case I have seem the cracks enlarge over time. When it's caused by build-up of pressure it seems that it stops once the pressure has been released, at least as far as I can see.

[@dembydish]

Both my strats have these 2 cm cracks. Its not possible without sanding down the paint to be sure if the cracks are in the wood. But even if the cracks are in the wood, what does it matter? I work with wood frequently and it seems to me that the neck is bolted to the body behind the neck and is held there firmly by the screws. This will minimise movement, but not eradicate it. These cracks should make no difference to the neck fixing strength. As a woodworker it is not a good idea to force wood together in a joint. The wood should come together snuggly but with enough space for expansion/contraction and glue (if required). I don't believe the cracks make any difference to the solidity of the guitar or the tone. It is only an aesthetic issue. The neck will expand and contract (as it is wood) at a different rate than the body, there will always be movement between these two faces. Paint cracks in places of movement no matter how small. Any one who has painted a wooden panel door will attest. Wood also shrinks as the moisture content dries out. Kiln dried woods as used in guitar bodies do this often. The cracks appear in the weakest and thinnest part of the body next to the neck which is under constant sideways and forward/back forces. It is clear to me that this area is an inherent weakness structurally and from a design standpoint. Therefore in my opinion the wood and or paint is under varying degrees of pressure and movement and one or both of them could crack in time

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

denbydish You make a good point. I think the only real issue is that many buyers would prefer not to have cracks (ideally) and getting a guitar with neck pocket cracks that the seller didn't mention is pretty disappointing - especially if, like me, you feel obliged to mention it when selling on. Honesty puts me at a disadvantage at that point but that's another issue altogether. You're right - in practice neck pocket cracks rarely affect how the guitar plays or sounds. And the over-tightness of the neck fit is definitely a primary cause of cracks.

[@dembydish]

Thanks for your reply. I just purchased a Columbus 70s SG and lo and behold, cracks! These I believe may have more to do with bad handling and damage than surface cracks in the paint. This was not mentioned in the description at sale and I am disappointed. It means I'd have to remove the neck to look and determine the extent of the damage. I agree it is much better to describe these things up front. Ebay is often a trap for buyers in this regard. Best.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Agreed denbydish. The only reason I care about these cracks is in so far as they reduce the possible resale value (who would choose a guitar with neck pocket cracks if they could get one without?). They have to be really bad before the neck moves too much in the pocket although it does happen. The most annoying aspect is when a seller forgets to mention or see these cracks when writing their listings...

[@Agenthoover1]

The only way to fix the cracks will result in some sort of refin, How to fix, simply drill a small hole at the very end of the crack and plug it, this stops the crack travelling any further, if your handy with an air brush then great, if not.. refin the whole body, oh and if you plug it make sure the end grain of the plug runs across the crack, not inline with it.

[@bikesandboards6870]

I have recently found a crack on my baby in one of the corners how do I fix it

[@sbrave]

Can you play it hough? I have a cracked neck pocket (both sides), and am wondering if I can tune and play the guitar, or will it potentially make it worse?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Even if the cracks ARE in the wood they have to be massive / gaping to affect the guitar’s playability. The guitar in this video was pretty extreme but even that was fun to play. If you push or waggle any guitar neck you can cause a tremolo effect because they’re bendy wood. If your neck pocket has large cracks the worst that happens is it adds a little to the tremolo effect.

[@sbrave]

Thank you. I got a guitar sent back to me that was damaged in shipping, and there are a couple bad cracks (L & R sides) in the neck pocket area. I've been afraid to tune it up and play it, wondering if the tension would make the cracks worse, etc.@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars

[@DeathMetalThrasher]

I've bought brand new guitars worth anywhere from $200-$3000 with those hairline cracks. Granted, where I live there's lots of moisture and temperature changes. I had a brand new kramer, kept it out of the box for 3 hours after playing and the hairline cracks appeared when I looked at it. It's even more common with bolt on necks, I wouldn't worry about it, it's rarely the actual wood. It's the wood expanding and shrinking that causes it.

[@scottguitar2]

Your take on these cracks has helped me a lot. I bought a strat on eBay with one of these cracks. The open high strings sounded dead even after replacing the strings, the nut had been replaced and wasn't centred correctly. Seller had said guitar played well and only minor scratches on body. Debated with myself wether I should request a return because I think a lot of beginners may not even notice these issues. But like yourself, if I was selling a guitar I'd feel obliged to mention these issues so I decided to return it rather than try and sell it on and take a hit. What you say makes sense to me. It's very coincidental that the finish cracks at the exact place that the wood is under great stress. Thanks for the video, very informative.

[@Fotosaurus56]

I have a Gibson ES Les Paul that developed a crack along where the neck meets the body at the back. However, I know that the neck has a long glued-in tenon. Most pictures I've seen of this particular guitar show the same thing. So cracks happen, and it can be just in the finish. Wood is going to expand and contract. The finish..maybe not.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Agreed. I think in all the years I've been doing this and hearing from subscribers and visitors the outcome is that it's a combination of both situations. Stressing finish will crack it whether that stress comes slowly from a too-tight neck joint, from expanding wood or whether it comes from a sharp knock. It's when it takes a knock that it's more likely to initiate a crack in the wood.

[@runningwithscissors0911]

Great video. I like information that is based on experience, critical observation and science which is very different from opinion. Than you; very helpful to me.

[@anthonybeers]

You have obviously never used any stress paint. Which is more brittle than steel and cracks when the underlying steel stretches, this is used to see surface stress paths on steel parts in the design phase. It depends if the paint is more brittle than the wood. I don't know which is true in this case but both are actually possible from and engineering perspective.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Good point - and no, I've not used it. Didn't even know there was such a thing. It's very likely that the paint & more particularly the clear poly on most modern guitars is more brittle than the underlying wood, for sure.

[@somecringegamer1437]

but mine has 1 straight line crack but its inside of the guitar body theres some cracked line on my guitar on body but i think the cracked ia inside can this be fixed?? btw the guitar is shiny something or reflecting idk but can this still be fixed?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

I've seen a few guitars with body cracks running lengthwise and I've stripped one or two down. In a couple of cases (I remember a Westone in particular) the cracks definitely WERE wood cracks, running along the grain. In that case I didn't fix it; just played it. I'd rather wait until the two parts actually separated (if they ever would) to be able to glue them back together. Other than that, you could use a filler and re-paint but if it's shrinking and cracking then it's going to continue shrinking and cracking until it's good and ready to STOP lol.

[@somecringegamer1437]

@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars whattttttttttt the guitarss are shrinkinng?? ow btw a saw a video that they make a fenderstrart tremolo system into fliying tremolo so can i ask you is it safe i got a fender sqire i want to make my guitar a floating tremolo so i can do dive bomb

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

@@somecringegamer1437 Your 6 screw Strat trem will float well enoughth BUT it will only stay in tune if you 1) Get your nut slots sorted - i.e. not pinching, pinging or dragging on the strings and 2) stretch out ALL the slack in your newly-fitted strings before you play. If you get both those things right AND you know how to set your tremolo to float (Search 'Galeazzo Frudua 6 screw tremolo' on KZbin) you can do amazing things.

[@somecringegamer1437]

@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars wwell ok thankss but it is safe its branded fender i mean i love my guitar i dont wanna broke it so is it safe?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

@@somecringegamer1437 I can't say - other than it's safe until such time as it splits further or all the way through. It may never do that. Or, if the crack is deep you may knock the guitar against something and find the whole body in two pieces. The way I look at it is 'it's a solid body...until it isn't'. I was making a guitar once and saw a crack develop longways in the grain so rather than let it develop over time I hit it with a mallet and snapped it cleanly in two. I then glued and clamped it firmly together and carried on working / carving it. Still in good shape today; no more crack :-)

[@lobsterwhisperer7932]

I have 30 plus year old fenders that don't have these neck pocket cracks, but the odd Strat that has fallen on its face from leaning on something has. Mind you it was carpet they fell onto.

[@christoguichard4311]

With all due respect, my 49 years of buying, selling, restoring, and building, guitars tells me that 99.9% of neck pocket lacquer cracks are caused by two things... 1. The inflexibility of lacquer compared to the wood upon which it sits. And... 2. The DEPTH of the lacquer that is laid upon the wood, and the stress caused against it by the fitment of the neck. I've NEVER come across cracked wood beneath a neck lacquer crack. That must be in dealing with maybe several hundred guitars since 1972. Just my twopennorth. 🤔

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Appreciate you sharing your experience! Two out of two recently where I happened to strip back ‘normal’ looking lacquer cracks turned out to be in the wood too. Both things are, no doubt, true :-)?

[@dembydish]

Do you think wicking in thin super glue into neck pocket cracks (from inside the pocket with neck removed) would work to bond and stabilise cracks in the wood? I can't see wood glue getting into a crack without forcing it open. Thank you.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Difficult to know. If I CAN open a crack to get wood glue in, I will - even with some force...I'm not sure superglue has the same kind of properties when use with wood, possibly too brittle. Hard to experiment to tell. Worth trying - i.e. nothing to lose!

[@cellardwellerproductions5125]

Instant or Crazy glue has very good strength along the joint in a flexing motion, not so much in 'shear'. If that makes sense. Gorilla Glue, a brand here in the States gentlemen, is an instant glue with slight expanding properties while it sets up. I haven't used it yet myself. A friend of mine swears by it. Might be something to look into. I'm looking to do a repair myself, as I maybe stuck with a bad eBay buy. Wish me luck.

[@jasonh2254]

The bit just in front of the neck pickup on my squier the sandwich part has 2 cracks from me bending the neck for trem just found it

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

that always splits... such a flimsy piece of wood

[@sampaton5460]

I have an Ibanez gem jr with a surface chip on the side of the neck pocket is there a way to fix it?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Hi Sam - chips like that are usually the result of slightly too much pressure on the finish when the heel is fitted. Whatever you do to fix it, you want to ensure that either the neck heel is thinned down a little (I sometimes carefully scrape some finish off the heel where it contacts the pocket) or the pocket is widened very slightly - I mean a tiny amount. That's just to prevent any more pressure chips... but definitely do that before any kind of finish repair otherwise it may happen again and almost certainly will if you have to remove and re-fit the neck in future. IMHO there are no really successful 'spot repairs' only 'passable' ones. You can touch up a chip-out with fresh paint but then you need to level the finish. Sometimes I paint a relatively thin few layers of colour and then resort to Glu Boost (or even a glassy UV-cured resin I have) to slightly over-fill the chip-out. Then it's a matter of careful scraping to flat. The final part is carefully controlled sanding through all the grades of MicroMesh... and a final buff out. It's a lot of work to get it even close to good... In reality, if you want untraceable perfection a complete body refinish is the only guaranteed way. Even then don't forget the original pressure cause of the problem and be sure to take care of that first!

[@aaroncurry279]

16:56 Looks like you have a bigger problem than heel pocket cracks. Thankfully it’s your camera, not the neck. Thanks for the thorough explanation.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Yes, that neck is as bent as... :D

[@Shaylok]

Very informative, but i was hoping to see how such cracks can be repaired.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Sorry! The truth is that a ‘spot’ repair is nigh on impossible to do invisibly - and often won’t prevent the crack from recurring (if it’s ‘only’ in the finish and caused by stress /pressure). The only real way - including if it’s the wood - is to fix, reduce pressure and completely re-finish.

[@Shaylok]

@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars Thank you for the response. I have a new strat that i have only owned for two weeks and i just noticed a hairline crack near the neck pocket. Hoping its just the lacquer - but the only way to tell at this point would be to sand it down to the wood. I'll keep my eye on it for now.

[@Kinimod22]

Hello! I just got a new mexi fender tele and it has a hairline crack upper horn should i keep it or send it back? (I can’t feel the crack with my fingernail)

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

We discussed on FB Messenger - you're entitled to a guitar without ANY finish cracks when you buy new... so if you can bear the inconvenience, get a replacement :-)

[@Shane-oc7xi]

Just purchased one with hairline crack in the exact same spots Removed the neck cleaned the dust and wiped it off Inspection with a magnifying glass and its definitely in the wood too. But its still super steady so no worries for me.

[@patriknessboLemoran]

i have a set neck guitar and i dropped it. there is a crack stretching from The fretboard and then stretches down the right angle joint and then it cobtinues on the back about 1 inch

[@amessagefromthepatriots]

Thanks Sam for the informative video. I have a 1990 MIJ Stat that has got these on both sides of the neck the one on the top side of the neck is about 1cm and the other on the underside is about half a centimetre. I usually hang my guitar from wall brackets by the headstock...is it safe to do so? Or is it possible the weight of the body could make the cracks worse? Any advice on this?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

HI Sam - no, there's little to no danger of any damage from hanging by the headstock. The cracks (whether in finish alone or in the wood) are usually caused by pressure; either a slightly too big (or too heavily lacquered) heel being pulled by the neck screws into a tight pocket, a sudden knock sideways or just too much tightening of the screws. Whatever / however pressure builds up, it is released by something cracking. If the wood is weak due to the way the grain runs in line with where the crack normally wants to happen (corners of the pocket) it may crack. If not, then just the finish cracks. Hanging it from the neck would potentially slightly ease the pressure if anything (but realistically not enough to make a difference)

[@amessagefromthepatriots]

@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars Great news. Thanks!

[@heres2ya]

what method did you check the crack/inspect ?.. other that just looking at it. to come to your conclusion

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Sounds like you want to share YOUR methods, so please do

[@heres2ya]

@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars that's a serious question. and it did not warrant a smarty pants answer from you. why can't you just answer my question?.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

@@heres2ya Apologies, must have been a stressed day. In the case of my original Sunn Mustang, the cracks clearly went into the wood (I could see it visually) and I could make them widen by putting pressure on the neck. Because there were actual cracks and because they moved, I prised them as open as possible before shoving Titebond in there and clamping as best I could (in all directions). I dug sloped channels in the finish around the cracks i.e. making them wider to allow me to build up a volume of finish but it was a messy result. Solid but didn't match terribly well (the original finish was pearl sparkle and the repair was similar hue of cream). But it was fixed and played great.

[@tochriss]

Interesting video. I found this because I was interested in the cracking all around the neck joint of my Gould flying V copy. Flexing the guitar does not appear to open up the cracks perceptibly and I don;t detect and movement of the neck in the join so I concluded that it was likely that the thing had been dropped at some point and flexed enough at the join (it's a glued in tennon) to crack the finish. If true that the finish is less flexible than the wood, and this seems likely to me, then I find the argument that the flexing of a joint that's already under strain from an interference fit, is likely to cause the finish to crack without the underlying wood actually cracking, a compelling one. I've seen you've taken on board previous comments and I wonder if you have modified your view on the likelihood of finish cracks being indicative of underlying wood cracks?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Hi Chris - it's a good question. "I think it can be both" is the simple answer. I buy the idea that poly finish can be very brittle and glassy - and as a result, it's likely to split easily when under pressure. I think the corners of the neck pockets put the solid finish under pressure and more so when the heel is screwed in tight. That pressure is relieved by cracking in the finish. I've also had guitars (the one mentioned in this video for example) that looked like it quite large neck pocket cracks and these were indeed in the wood. The heel was very movable when I took it apart. I've also had guitar bodies that dried over time and split, taking the finish with them - long splits the full length of the body timber. Overall, statistically I accept that *most* neck pocket finish cracks are finish-only, even where the same cracks occur due to extra pressure on the finish when the headstock gets a knock (transferring the shock through the neck heel and into the finish). After a few years making my own guitars I've learned just how difficult it is to estimate the thickness of a finish and sand / adjust the neck pocket to accommodate it. The result of this difficulty - which won't be an exact science even in the factory - is that many guitars WILL have necks fitted that leave the finish under stress.

[@tochriss]

Thanks for the reply. All makes a lot of sense. I don't suppose you have any tips for repairing these cracks in the finish do you? I'm not finding anything online about this. I had the idea letting some thin superglue wick into them with capillary action but I'm not sure this will help make the crack less visible but they are so fine I'm not sure a pigmented lacquer will work in. Maybe sand over them with v fine grit and then thin superglue? But that may just sand clearcoat into the crack. I'm a bit stumped!

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

@@tochriss You could try GluBoost 'Fill 'n Finish'. Expensive but I found it worked great for filling things. Less messy (in my experience) than plain superglue. Great for filling dings too. The problem is always whatever stands proud of the surface once you've filled. Glu Boost-filled ding on a flat guitar top is fairly easy to scrape flush, carefully sand through the grits to a polish and buff... but on curves / corners difficult to scrape whether superglue or Glu Boost. I've just ordered some UV-curable resin... I'm interested to know if that will fill cracks.

[@tochriss]

@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars Thanks very much. That's reminded me I've got some of that UV resin and I'm yet to use it. Might be a good solution as it does not shrink to my knowledge and you can maybe wipe it flush then zap it. Again, might not hide the crack though without pigment. Worth a try on a test piece.

[@blackfender100]

I have seen the cracks in Many many Strat style guitars. even High dollar models I agree with you Sam.

[@NarrowboatFirefly]

As a mechanical engineer I agree with all you said about stress cracking at sharp corners. I guess as to if it is only the wood or the lacquer is about the degree of that stress. I can see that the lacquer could be more brittle that the wood and therefore you get a hairline crack in the lacquer yet the word has not actually cracked. Alternatively the wood it cracked also, and as a buyer you have to assume the worst case. BTW, keep up the interesting videos!

[@santiagoselias]

The video was very helpful and informative however i am a bit worried because my favourite guitar, which is actually a squier affinity ( even though its a cheap guitar, it has a very big sentimental value for me ) has one of those small cracks since i bought it. Will those cracks spread through the body? What will those cracks evolve into?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

They're unlikely to spread. They are usually completely stable so don't worry :-)

[@santiagoselias]

@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars thank you! What a relief!

[@lamontprospect9974]

There is particular damage to where the neck meets the heel. The company is doing exactly as you said and telling me it's only the lacquer.

[@sugaryawroc]

I'll have to get one of my Fenders X-Rayed I have slight lines not cracks as such and they do appear as though its only laquer that is split.. Hopefully they won't grow.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

I uncovered a typical strat neck pocket crack the other day in the workshop facebook.com/1434242346832881/posts/2875056052751496/

[@gammaraymonkey]

Would've been nice to see an example of these pocket cracks you speak of.

[@ReD_SnOw-ke2hn]

Recently crashed in my auto, guitar neck cracked but stayed bolted on to the body and not I have micro crack. She's still trucking along tho!!

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Glad you didn't get any cracks! Keep on playin'!

[@sugaryawroc]

I wonder which woods are more destined to cracking Is Basswood more prone to cracking?

[@bobshipman3245]

I have a neck pocket crack in the body of a Slammer Hamer electric guitar, and I've taken the neck off and it looks like it has not gone all the way through, so tell me how I can repair it so it doesn't show it's not for sale I want it to look nice for my son it's his guitar. It's black

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Hi Bob, I'm not the best person to give advice on this as I've only ever done it...relatively crudely and there might be better ways. I've used this method before kzbin.info/www/bejne/aZnLfadjp66YgsU but unless you're a pro with your paint and your lacquer (and buffing it all out) then you won't get a perfect match. Logically I agree with the guy who's saying that unless you widen the crack before filling it with paint and clear coat (maybe primer at the beginning?) then it will always re-crack - mainly because if you just paint over the hairline (or fill the top couple of microns) you've not really done anything TO the crack.

[@mC_DiDiDiDiDi]

Hey, I am considering a prs custom 22, maple neck, but it has a crack which looks in an odd place. I wonder if you have any experience with set neck cracks in the heel at all?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

I think I just replied to you directly... ?

[@jimcamp2423]

I bought a 2005 Squier Bullet in June 2019 that I just noticed has those type of stress cracks. I paid $ 25 for it, so it's not like I'm going to starve if they are wood cracks. I bought it to learn Luthier skills and to also play as a practice guitar, something I could throw in the car and head over for a garage session & not really worry about a scratch & dent here & there. Anyway, the buyer wanted $60 for it. But the condition of the guitar and I felt I was generous considering there wasn't a single screw that was tight. Who knew whether the screw holes had been stripped out over 15 years even ? The fretboard was filthy, oddly, that muck kept the Rosewood from drying out & cracking, the frets were clean and showed little use/abuse.Tha much really cleaned up nicely. The chrome was starting to show a little rust as were the springs & even strings. So any way, 4 of the screws that were slack & loose were the bolt on neck. I figured if that guy was too lazy to screw the pickguard and instrument clamshell to tightness, what were the chances any of it were ever checked to proper snugness. And then he tuned & played it as a practice guitar, putting that kind of tension/load on a loose neck & body join area ? So I have what look to be polyurethane cracks. They look more like spider veins or a lightning strike, so I'm hoping that the cracks are finish cracks. What concerns me though is that the neck has a dent in it at the 6th fret, so that bump might very well be the bump that started the crack ? That was long before I owned it I've had it nearly a couple of months, finally did a truss rod adjustment, but the screws are still solid and tight, so it's not like the neck was/is coming loose. I tightened the truss to reduce the concave. It's a 2005, the previous owner never tightened screws, so what are the odds he ever adjusted the truss rod for humid FL that would require. It's entirely possible that the truss rod adjustment may have cracked it ? But like the video says, this dude was a seller & wanting top dollar for a 15 year old Squier. I've learned so much DIY Luthier skills, so I'm satisfied that if it were to snap like a twig tomorrow, that the $ 25 was well worth all the things I've learned about maintaining a guitar. For now, it plays just fine, so it's still my beater/daily player.

[@jimcamp2423]

All that said, I think this guitar I have will propagate that crack(s) there, but it's not like I'm going to die from it, it's a Squier and eventually disposable considering the condition it's in. The truss rod was in desperate need of adjustment, I went little bit at a time like 1/8 turn increments & less to move it. And allowed plenty of time to let it move gently. That's why I think the dent at the 6th fret is probably what started it all. I missed the cracks, when inspecting it, but who knows, the truss rod adjustment may have done it to the point where I would notice it ? I did buy an Squier Affinity Strat that was used, that was in much better condition for $ 55. So I've still got a backup plan. This video was good learning, Thanks Sam Deeks for sharing your experience on KZbin.

[@jimcamp2423]

I agree, here's a confirmation of what is being said here if anyone else wants a 2nd opinion on it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6LQhWV5ec-JbNE

[@greeneterror7989]

Just what I was thinking I have passed a few bye because of that problem have you done any vids of repair of this problem CHEERS!!!

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

GT - kzbin.info/www/bejne/in_XkmuFnLVqb5o That was a long time ago :-)

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

....just to let you know, abusive comments that add nothing to the discussion get hidden. In fact, plain old abusive comments get hidden (whether or not they add anything) - period, full stop.

[@larsjonsson4239]

Interesting to hear about your experiences. So what is a good solution? How would you change the design to avoid this problem?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Avoid 90 degree corners / angles no matter which plane they're in... that's all I can think of. Glued necks tend to have less 90 degree angles around the neck fixing I think. Alternatively a through neck? Failing that, ensure there are curves instead of corners wherever possible.

[@TheRezus35]

Dear Sam, great video as usual. I've been watching every video of yours and it's always very informative. However, I've been thinking of getting some new guitar (still don't know which model. I love strats, already have two of them, one Mexican, and one old Squier, but never tried some semihollow..maybe Epiphone dot, or something like that, and it's my 50' birthday comming so...:) BUT - I was wondering what your advice would be. I'd like to buy an American Special stratocaster. It seems to me very fine guitar..then again, for that amount of money I can get..let's say Epiphone Sheraton II and Blues Junior Laquered Tweed III (which is also on my wish list :) So (finaly) what's your opininon of mentioned American strat? Is it worth it, or there isn't much of a difference between that one and Some Mexican made? Thanjk you and Cheers !

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Hi - sorry for not replying (for some reason YT only notifies me of *some* comments and not others??). I'd say go for something different :-) You've already got a pretty good strat in the Mexican one and we're both in that age bracket where 'putting things off until later' just doesn't make sense if ya get my meaning :-) Go with the Sheraton and the valve amp!

[@Anonymous.android]

I've just purchased a strat with a very small crack in the corner. Is it something I should worry about?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Hi Will... the consensus of commenters in this thread say "No, it's most likely only the finish cracking under stress from the underlying wood" and I'd go along with that. Play it and enjoy, it won't fall apart or anything bad like that :-)

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

​@@Daringo67 Hi Darin; so your experience is a pretty good example of how these cracks appear and I guess we have to use common-sense to work out what's going on. Firstly, it hasn't been knocked as it has been in the case all that time. So, secondly, the only things that will be going on in that case will be...? Loss of moisture from the wood....or possibly acquisition of moisture in the wood depending on the relative humidity of the environment. And continued curing of the finish (if it's nitro) but none if its poly. If the body and the neck wood change at all relative to the finish they're covered with then that will put some kind of stress on the finish. If the body and the neck heel change at different rates to each other that can put a great deal of stress on the joint. You can see how much change can occur when you make a guitar and fashion a snug-fitting electrics cover plate... when you finish the build, everything fits snugly. 3 months hanging on the peg and - wow! - I can't get the electrics cover plate out! A microscopic shrinkage of the body (still acclimatizing to the local environment) can grip that cover. Sure, you can remove it, lightly sand the edges and you're back to where you started but that grip exerts a lot of pressure - evidenced by its reluctance to let go of it. Although I still think that some cracking is the result of knocks, I'm also persuaded that shrinkage / joint-tightening etc can sufficiently stress the finish to cause cracking... I'm not sure Fender will take responsibility for changes after sale - unless you can demonstrate that their timber wasn't sufficiently humidified when sold... On the upside, that finish crack won't affect the guitars performance in any way other than perhaps a slight dip in resale value...

[@kootenaystringworks1765]

I fill them with CA glue as far as it will take it and use my clamp and caul setup for them. Really common and by no means ruins the guitars playability.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Well.. usually but facebook.com/relovedguitars/photos/pcb.2875056052751496/2875052666085168 and others in that series.

[@kootenaystringworks1765]

@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars There are exceptions all the time with everything.

[@23ninoo37]

I have two cracks there and they go around and almost touch each other. The seller and the repair shop I took it to said that it didn't affect the structural aspect of the guitar but is there any way to seal/cover them?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

This video is a reasonable suggestion kzbin.info/www/bejne/aZnLfadjp66YgsU - note that this guy re-finished the whole body after doing his repair. Refinishing the whole body is about the only way to ensure a consistent finish; any attempts at partial re-finish will almost certainly show where the new & old join.

[@23ninoo37]

@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars Thanks for the suggestion but in my opinion thats a lot of work for a $100 guitar. I'd rather save up for a better guitar and the crack itself doesn't look that bad. Also I dont have the skills or the equipment to do this(I'm 14). Thanks for the suggestion though

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

@@23ninoo37 You didn't ask my opinion on whether it's worth it or not. Anyway, that's a subjective decision - to someone who is curious / wants to experiment or learn it's NOT too much effort. To someone who just wants a guitar to play it probably is.

[@jimmypavone3231]

I main guitar is an old unknown strat copy “JR Beck,” I found it at a guitar center for $60 in the used section. I picked it up because the finish looked nice, and took it to an amp to play it and was amazed. I picked up a real fender right next to it and plugged in, was muddled compared to the copy. I’ve had it for years and one day realized the guitar had pretty massive cracks in the neck pocket and also a horizontal crack at the neck starting at the tuners. The guitar sounds great and holds a tube for weeks as long as you don’t use the whammy bar to I just screwed it down flush. I’m wondering your and anyone else’s option as to wether I should try to repair or just leave it be?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

For $60 I wouldn't bother trying to fix it - particularly if it's now stable and you enjoy playing it. I'd say only strip it and investigate the cracks as a 'learning project' (you can never lose when you're learning something).

[@pickup4life225]

Is this fixable? Just got a small one on my tom delonge fender

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Flawlessly? No. Whether it's finish-only or wood and finish the crack occurs because the pressure is too great. Often this is caused by a fraction too much finish on the neck heel making the joint too tight; pulling the neck screws in tight increases the pressure until - crack - something gives. The only true way to fix it is to re-finish the body (taking care to glue up any cracks in the wood while you're at it). Then you need to reduce the finish thickness on the neck just enough to prevent that pressure building up again. The problem is that's a HUGE job for a not very serious problem; and also there's literally no way to know when you've got a micron-accurate thickness of finish on the heel that works with the exact pocket dimensions. You literally can't measure it; it ends up being done by feel. Which is why they crack so often. If you simply 'cover up' the crack with a little matching finish it will be visible and probably as bad as before... and may reveal the crack again in fairly short order. Whatever you do, your best starting point would be to gently thin down the finish where it goes into the neck pocket to reduce the pressure 1st of all... then, you stand a chance of any casual or more serious repairs holding together.

[@oliverplays9598]

Just rubbed down some neck pocket cracks on a telecaster Palo esprito, thought they might just be in the polyester clear coat but unfortunately in the wood. Wish I'd left it as it was as is going to be a pain to repair being a wood finish.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Sorry to hear... but it's interesting that you found wood cracks. That's what also I found recently when I 'test-sanded' some typical neck pocket cracks back...

[@JJT007hero]

Thnx so much!

[@dannyharrisonn_]

the more important question is .. does the average lets say 'small' hairline neckpocket crack.. be it the wood or the finish actually affect the function of the guitar? I have a limited edition Fender Jazzcaster that has the tiniest .. faintest harline crack?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Spot on Danny. The answer is "No", simple as that - and this guitar was a good demonstration of that. The whole neck pocket area was practically split in all directions... yet it still played and was great fun too. Yes, the cracks allowed a little bit of movement but it wasn't ever going to fall apart in my hands. But those cracks were MONSTERS :-) Despite the fact that cracks don't affect play the truth is that they DO affect the 2nd hand sale price... and we all prefer to avoid them for that reason alone.

[@dannyharrisonn_]

ahh nice one man! thanks for getting back, I was doubtful at first but thats much appreciated! :D

[@cjgsicknote]

Ive just unboxed a brand new mim strat, beautiful guitar but it has hairline cracks in exactly the places you have mentioned either side of the neck pocket and its brand new!, ive also noticed a ding on the bottom front edge of the body and the base of the neck has a gap on the treble side but is flush on the bass side. Gutted, sending it back.

[@cjgsicknote]

Bobby Murphy yeah man absolutely right there, this was bought for me as a 40th birthday present through a local reputable music store, i took the guitar back to them and they swapped it for an immaculate strat with no cracks!!

[@savanaviolenta]

Chris graham I bought too brand new MIM strat witch a thin crack exactly on the same place,where tou described yours.I think its nithibg tobworry about.

[@evanfehr3819]

One of these just appeared on my guitar, it's never been dropped or bumped, what could have caused it do you know?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Wood expanding or shrinking Evan. When guitar neck pockets are routed & neck heels are manufactured they're done to fairly close tolerances i.e. they fit together pretty well but loose enough to allow room for the finish that will be sprayed on the neck heel. The actually thickness of the finish on the neck probably varies between necks / production runs. When the painted neck is pressed into the routed pocket the fit becomes tighter. Then, when the neck bolts screw the neck to the body this pulls the two parts together even more. Any stress due to a tight fit between pocket and painted neck will be amplified and this alone can cause the surrounding finish to flake off (quite common) and / or crack (also quite common). Beyond that, if the pocket shrinks by a fraction or the neck heel expands by a fraction this can also put unbearable stress on an already stressed joint. So, put simply, changes in humidity / temperature can cause this.

[@harrymac8265]

I think it’s crap I have an acoustic flat top with lacquer cracks on the top of the guitar but there are no cracks on the spruce top this was caused when shipping the guitar temperature changes

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

I tend not to do videos that attract heated opinions but seems that this one does. Ah well. It's evident that there are strongly-held opinions on either side of this divide; that's a fact. Whether or not lacquer cracks always extend into the wood another FACT is that some of them most certainly do. I also know that many of us would be hard-pushed to spot a hairline crack in wood so may not be in a position to spot many of those cracks that DO also exist in the wood. Overall, I now accept the argument (put intelligently by some people in this thread) that some cracks may only be in the lacquer - since that substance can be pretty brittle and crack as it's own entity under stress. But wherever you fall on this argument it's worth remembering that a lot of people (me included) prefer to own a bolt-on necked guitar without cracking in the neck pocket whether its finish-only or wood & finish. That means it's preferable NOT to have cracks in the neck pocket because you can't know when buying online how serious they are. It's no accident that most sellers are adamant that the crack is 'only in the finish'; they would be, wouldn't they? By comparison, most buyers are more skeptical - for good reason; who knows how far these cracks extend? The thing I like least is when sellers forget to show or mention the neck pocket cracks.. I think that's something we probably agree on.

[@molekyyli]

Interesting! I might consider getting some "worthless" guitars with these to inspect them, very curious, especially as a wannabe luthier (hopefully a real one one day:)). I have currently only one bolt-on, a 21 yo Japanese RG, and it seems to have those (it's a bit hard to see due to black metallic finish) but I certainly don't wanna strip this one out of its original finish. It does have plenty of dings and scratches, so the possibility of being banged into something fairly hard is pretty plausible. I will def try to be very careful with tightening the neck screws from now on.

[@markpell8979]

5 minutes into this I'm just about dizzy from the constant twirling of the guitar in all directions, being held at a distance from the camera at which we could not see the cracks our host was talking about. I'm familiar with these little cracks and most of us have seen them occasionally on bolt-neck guitars, but it doesn't help us for you to just describe things or we might as well be listening to the radio. Sir, please hold the guitar still and give us a focused close-up look at the objective while you point out and explain the problem and the remedies.

[@albertgein3082]

Ya do we get to see it? I'm only looking because sweetwater has a strat affinity demo for sale with a crack in bass side of neck pocket... wanted to know how bad that is

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

In the years since making this video I've learned that brittle poly will crack at stress points.. and that stressed wood will also crack in the same kind of places... so ultimately you have to go by the fact that many bolt on neck guitars have these cracks, and almost all of them go on to play perfectly well. For me, if there's crack it's definitely the finish but there's a small chance it might also be the wood. Which, I suppose, is why people would prefer a guitar without them - and why their presence could lower the sale price.

[@albertgein3082]

@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars so other than being able to physically see.ot I suppose there's no telling how bad it could be as I suspected Of course they're out of stock if you wanted brand new

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

@@albertgein3082 That's right - and I'd be wanting a discount in respect of the risk and the fact that it's an imperfection.

[@albertgein3082]

@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars ya its discounted..I think close to 100 bucks off.. anyways it's a guitar +amp combo. The only they have in stock of that kind... kinda weary of how bad it is. Wasn't sure what a neck pocket was.. at least I know now

[@LarryMar]

There are 3 large cracks down the body of all these new guitars. They are made in 3 pieces and glued together before paint, right?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

A lot of the time, yes. Some of the old Westones that I've seen really do split the paint along those join lines - very dramatic. Then again an old Westone Thunder I stripped down recently was made of 9 pieces.

[@unclebigkid1020]

Is there a way to fix or cover it up?

[@sinjon]

And that’s why you DON’T tighten the neck screws down with brute force. So many inexperienced luthiers think you need to crank them down to the point they’re bearing down on the screwdriver when driving them in, or they use a drill to put them in. Ugh they only need to be in their firmly but as equally as possible.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Important observation.

[@stevenedwards4470]

Can you offer some advice about how to equally widen a neck pocket? I have a project I've been wanting to undertake. I can't shave the neck as it is one of those 1970's Kramer aluminum fork headstock necks. I need to remove maybe a millimeter and I don't want to mess up the body....which is a 1977 Aria Mach 1 Casino looking thing. Any help would be appreciated.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Hi Steven - the way I do it is this: I stick some 80 or 140 grit to a flat, square edged piece of hardwood. I make sure that there's a 'safe' edge (ie one side with no sandpaper) that won't scuff or sand the floor of the pocket. Then I use that to carefully sand the vertical sides of the pocket... same amount on both sides; then check for fit, then continue. Takes some patience but it always gets there for me (and without going too far one side vs. the other). Hope that helps!

[@stevenedwards4470]

@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars Thank you Sam. The idea occurred to me but i wanted to check that the approach was sound. The safe edge is a very good detail. Thorough as always on technique. 👍

[@stevenedwards4470]

@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars Hi again. I was hoping you could help me with 1 more point. I will, eventually, need to transfer the location of the screw holes of the neck into the surface of the neck pocket. They run in a straight line down the center rather than the 2 sets of parallel holes as is common. I know a tool exists that one can insert in those holes that makes a dimpled impression but the name of that escapes me. Do you know what that device is called so i can track that down? My thanks in advance.

[@guitarmann3343]

So far I have one strat with polyester finish which is Fender Mexico, and an Fender American Standard Stratocaster finished in polyurethane And one Fender in Nitro. The polyester on the Mexican Fender has cracked all the way up the horn. The the polyurethane and Nitro guitar has no cracks. The polyester is the worst in my opinion it just keeps peeling off

[@DelScully]

It's definitely due to the wood as in the neck expanding at a different rate as the body due to different wood types and mass.. But it's very rare for it to be in the wood. I'm not sure where you're getting your info from but most of the people I know who have had their addressed and sanded down have found it to rarely ever be in the wood.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

I'm getting my info from handling thousands of guitars. Twice, randomly, I've chosen to strip back the paint - just to see, randomly you understand - what was there. My logic was that a random strip-back was a reasonably interesting 'data point'. In both cases the cracks were into the wood. It's a tiny sample, granted but interesting enough as far as I'm concerned. The point of my video originally was that I was tired of hearing everyone declaring "oh, these are only in the finish..." yet those people had NO experiment basis for that statement. Just 'dogma' - and particularly biased dogma when they're also the hopeful seller of a guitar. I don't care much either way; I'll play anything and enjoy any guitar... but points like this catch my interest and I dislike unquestioned dogma... :-)

[@DelScully]

@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars well that's fair! I hope I don't have that same issue as I haven't yet but I do know a few people who have! From my experience it seems to be finish cracking more than wood but either is definitely possible! Personally I wouldn't worry about either unless it gets too bad as well!

[@Edward1312]

The guitar looks like the Squire Vintage modified blonde strat that's been modified with a humbucker at the bridge, however, the neck doesnt have the skunk stripe which it should have, which is odd.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

It's a Sunn Mustang Tony - Indian-made in the mid / late 1980s under license from Fender. A budget strat with some 80s mojo and a nice neck.

[@helenreed5815]

Hi Sam would u buy a guitar with a small crack on the neck not the neck pocket

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Hi Helen, it depends where it is and what kind of crack. You're welcome to email me [e-mail] with a close-up picture and I'll give my best opinion if I can

[@YeeThirty]

I do see where you are coming from but i feel the laquor cracking in that area apposed to others is due to the sharp 90° angles causing the paint to be thinner in that area. Not to mention its an outside corner. Its like painting any other outside edge.. its going to be thinner than the flat plain thus more likely to chip and crack. Dont get me wrong.. there is most definitely cases where it is the wood it self that has cracked but i could also see there being cases where it is just the laquor especially if your instrument has changed climates say... on tour.

[@denverwilliams22]

There's a small hairline crack on gibson les paul studio im looking to buy. could a paint crack occure on a set neck?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Hi Denver...some experienced folks have commented here saying that in their view lacquer is brittle and prone to cracking without there needing to be a crack in the wood. That may well be true - however I still think that cracked lacquer indicates that the guitar has been knocked or stressed. Cracks wouldn't stop me buying a 'keeper' guitar (for example my Rally LP copy has a fine crack around the neck joint) but they would put me off buying a guitar I planned to set up and sell on. I'd rather a guitar that hadn't been knocked if at all possible (or at least didn't show signs of stress or knocks i.e. cracks).

[@nightfire540]

Just noticed on my brand new Ibanez rg550 genesis. Just in the paint but it hurt me to see it. Probably happened when I lightly banged it on my wall hangar

[@SonnyPruitt-q1s]

My Squire Telecaster has the same cracks on either side of the pocket.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

It’s very common. Too much work to repair (complete refinish retired AND thinning down the heel dimensions to relieve pressure)… so I recommend just play and don’t worry!

[@multiscan8]

regarding the story about square windows in aircraft...don't some of the windows the pilots look out of have square corners? Good video though.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Where there's a massive pressure difference involved / massive strength required you won't see square corners. But you're right, some cockpits have square-ish windows. I guess that for those, the improved vision may be worth the additional strengthening required?

[@GREGSGUNSONLINE]

Sam where can I find 1983 pearl white guitar paint for touch ups and small dings.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Tough one.. I've bought several colours from UK suppliers Rothko & Frost and Northwest Guitars....now I have enough small pots lined up to be able to mix a couple of colours when I need but it's not exact. I find getting exact matches damnably difficult and you can spend your life online searching if you're not careful. Sorry that's not a very helpful answer!

[@GREGSGUNSONLINE]

Thank you Sam.

[@bojarneving6847]

Thank you very much - at last some logics!

[@paultesta35]

Want to do one on cracks on back of the neck of the guitar not the neck pockets cracks on back of the neck

[@andywrollo2915]

Paint is brittle. Wood has slight give. If dropped etc then yes can be wood. I have only one of 12 with cracks. This was caused by knocking or force. They dont grow. Or haven't. Just got one in post with 2mm crack. Gutted.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

You're right Andy - I've learned over the last 5 years or so that paint and clear coat - nitro and poly - can be REALLY brittle and glassy. Wood IS almost certainly a little more flexible so I'm more likely to agree that neck pocket cracks are commonly caused by over-tight neck joints. As a maker, you can see how this happens; neck pocket routed for a specific size... then primer, colour and top coat applied to neck heel AND body. Put the two together and they suddenly fit a lot tighter than when it was bare wood. Add the force of 4 screws and something is likely to give.

[@andywrollo2915]

@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars Cheers Sam.

[@blkjckgtr3075]

Hey Sam Peter here I bought a strat copy body no neck just the body it was white and I was going to build hendrix copy well I got t and low and behold it had those cracks !!seller didnt tell me and it was made of balsawood!!very disapointed but it turned out right!!but yeah buyer beware!!

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

It really annoys me when people don't mention them at all. Balsa wood? For real? Mind you, I'm working on a Tele copy now that feels a bit like balsa.

[@blkjckgtr3075]

Yes Sam it Wheyd 3.6 pounds and had a swimming pool cavity for the pickups and the neck rout had a crack in it bought on Ebay!! Not Impressed!! Love your hannel I dont care how long they are!!lol!!

[@uria702]

95% of the time it’s a crack in the wood. It forms as a result of swelling of the neck from changes in humidity. The neck swells and since the neck pocket is so tight, it cracks. It’s that simple.

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Sounds credible to me. But plenty of contributors in the comments here don't agree. It seems to be one of those polarising issues.

[@cgavin1]

I would say not that high! 95% of the time, in my experience, its purely a cosmetic event - although for the same reasons you state. Expansion/contraction.

[@savatele]

I totally agree with you about the cracks... It's always in wood... And it should be take down the price...

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Thanks for the comment. I'm not pleased because you agree with me, I'm pleased because your opinion helps to show just how varied views on this subject are. Short of doing some kind of dye-penetrant analysis I won't be proving this issue one way or another...but it's fascinating how polarised opinions can be. Here's a picture of a crack near a neck pocket. The guitar had one in the corner (like I'm discussing on this video) and two on the top directly behind the neck heel. The cracks looked exactly the same on the surface - but you can clearly see that the ones on top are definitely in the wood as well. Doesn't prove anything other than on the surface this 'all the way through' crack looks exactly like the 'superficial neck pocket corner' cracks... bit.ly/2o5Lvxk

[@wisdomking7717]

I have got a lot of them with cracked neck pockets over the years . Seems like it is getting worse with the modern ones...

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Yes, very common. Some people might associate it with polyurethane lacquer...? Who knows? I think over-tight neck / pocket joint has a lot to do with it. If the heel is too big it will stress the pocket. If it the heel is screwed in too tightly it can stress the pocket. In both cases I think the stress 'sheds' itself through the weakest shape... the right angle corner.

[@savanaviolenta]

I have one crack on my strat too. Recently I saw my bass developed two very thin little cracks on both sides of the pocket,who were not there.I think they are just paint cracks,but on my Strat I can feel with my finger that its in the wood.I keep my guitars in 8mm gig bags with silica gels inside,cause in my country the humidity is high.

[@uria702]

The silica gels are your problem mate. They dry out the wood then as soon as possible he guitar hits room humidity, the neck swells and cracks

[@Edward1312]

Ah just noticed it isnt a Squire at all!

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

The weird and wonderful old Sunn Mustang (the Indian-made version)

[@YeeThirty]

Lawsuit?

[@TheWGLOVER]

I'm not too convinced of your case. The only two examples I have seen were lacquer cracks. Poly is rather brittle and vulnerable at those points, as it is where there are various screws. I would expect the wood to be more resilient than the poly, unless the grain was unfortunately aligned. Do we see any examples on nitro bodies?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

I welcome intelligent disagreement William...out of interest, how would you know without cutting down through the lacquer to investigate the underlying wood? Cracks in wood can be practically invisible. But you're right about the brittleness of poly and the ease with which thick poly can crack when you don't drill the right darned tuner screw holes .... (sigh)

[@TheWGLOVER]

I know the cracks in my two cases, were lacquer cracks, because, in one case I caused it by me being careless when removing the neck which caught the lacquer. The other guitar I bought with a crack from the usual place on the upper horn, which extended about 3" and the edges were lifted. I am sure there are many cases where the wood might crack, but the lacquer is the weak spot, cracking with fairly minor stress.

[@gwhiz3708]

The main thing is don’t step on the crack because we all know if you step on a crack you’ll break your moma’s back 😂

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Burned into memory from childhood!

[@YellowJack6]

I haven't seen the whole video yet, but my phone is low on battery so I must ask: can this be fixed? Will these cracks spread and eventually break the guitar?

[@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars]

Carlos Hi Carlos - they can be fixed whether they’re in the paint only or in the wood. If they’re in the paint only then they’re not likely to increase - the crack is caused by stress which has already happened. If it’s in the wood it can continue to increase over time as the wood changes in different conditions (ie if it dries out or soaks up water). Both cases require a fair bit of effort to fix but most people leave them. I’ve never seen a neck joint fall apart completely but it can lead to unwanted movement in the neck.

[@YellowJack6]

Sam Deeks thanks for your reply. I had ordered a brand new ESP two weeks ago with a bolt on neck for around $1200 and it had a huge crack in the heel, so I ordered a replacement that just came in and it has a crack in the same spot but this one is hairline. I expected better quality for the money, but I think it's the fact that it's being shipped from cold weather to warm weather. I really want to keep this one because I expect them all to have the crack at this point. I'm just afraid that it'll fail me at some point. I have a bit of experience with repairs and I've been subscribed to your channel for a while. I'm probably going to remove the neck to check how bad it is. Would you keep it if you were in my position?

[@tucanman9775]

lacquer ? my squier was dipped then i chipped all the epoxy off

[@Michigunner]

Rg550 has this issue too.

[@markshone4606]

My 2017 mim has crack in same place