How to Reform Electrolytic Filter Capacitors on tube radio or amp.

[@bryandowdey1779]

Very interesting and practical demonstration on reforming capacitors! Thanks.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Pleasure

[@lyntonprescott3412]

Great stuff. I watched this a while ago without any real understanding. Now I understand perfectly. I wil have to construct one of these by following another of your excellent videos.

[@erin19030]

Nice rig! I've done similar reforming of a cap , with a kluge of meters and a power supply for a class room instruction. It's a great lesson on how caps actually work.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Cosimo Kramarawicz : it sure is.

[@billharris6886]

Thanks for posting this video. I also like your home-brew power supply; very handy looking. Aluminum electrolytic capacitors have a breakdown voltage that is determined by the working voltage applied to them (assuming you operate it within standard ratings). If no voltage is applied to the capacitor for a long time, that breakdown voltage continually drops (hence the need for reforming). This phenomenon is especially noticable with the high voltage types (250 - 450 volts). If the capacitor is not dried out, it usually can be reformed. My recipe is to use a power supply set to a voltage 10% higher than the capacitor voltage rating, isolate the capacitor, then connect the voltage from the power supply to the capacitor through a 100k resistor. After letting it "soak" for 24 hours, I check the voltage difference between the power supply and capacitor. If the difference is less than 20%, the reforming is considered successful. Some old capacitors (≥ 50 years old) can loose their breakdown voltage capability, which occurs after a few days of reforming. If this is the case, the capacitor is beyond hope of recovery.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Bill Harris: Thanks for sharing your techniques.

[@frankmcvey]

Thanks for the tip regarding the Sencore LC53 tester manual as containing a chart for acceptable capacitor leakage current figures. The tester manual is available online (for free!) and the said chart is on page 17. I've printed it off and laminated the page and it's now hanging on the wall next to my capacitor reformer/tester. Very useful info for old valve radios or amplifiers.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Frank McVey : yes, that sort of info is rare these days.

[@jonathandiesca9251]

Very informative. This is my first time seeing doing this capacitor reforming. Thank you very much... In my location very hard to find electronics spare parts. With your videos now i can reform electrolytic capacitor.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Glad to help.

[@CanadairCL44]

Thank you for taking the time and effort to share your knowledge and expertise, I have learned so much from you.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

My pleasure

[@franckforster5451]

That was very helpful and I am going to build one of your capacitor reformer. I have replace some capacitors in tube amp and i am convinced now that it was not necessary. Luckily I kept them . Thank you

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Good luck.

[@rosshollinger8097]

This is a great series. Very methodical and informative. Thank you. I agree with thorough component testing, but generally replace old caps, especially originals, is the way to go. On this radio, electrically removing the can from circuit and hiding new caps underneath seems to be a breeze.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Yes, there’s more than enough space if you choose to go that route.

[@sterlinglombard]

I like Mr. Carlson's lab version of dealing with multi-electrolytic capacitors and leaving them on the chassis, but disconnecting them from circuit and replace them with modern electrolytics under the chassis. That way, you still have the aesthetics, but modern capacitors doing the job.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

I sometimes do that, depending on the situation

[@scottbc31h22]

I replace the whole can with a brand new can. The parent company of Antique Electronic Supply, has purchased and restarted Mallory's former can manufacturing line and started manufacturing brand new cans, of various values. In the USA! Since the value of the filter caps is not critical in most PS and cathode bypass circuits, you should be able to find a suitable replacement. *I am not affiliated in any way with Antique Electronic Supply, other than a satisfied customer. www. tubesandmore.com or www.cedist.com ( for commercial customers)

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Thanks for the link. My problem is that I live in Madeira, and getting them over here cos ta more in shipping than the actual product. Very useful to know, though.

[@anandarochisha]

In the early 70's my electronics Prof told us that reforming caps was part of the way things were done because they were trying to prolong the life of an expensive item. A certain amount of maintenance was required on tube sets of course, changing and testing tubes for instance. Now caps last a long time and are cheap. Reforming caps is like adding electrolyte and water and charging and nursing a dying and weak battery in your car. Just replace it and give yourself a break already.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Dan Seven : the idea of prolonging the life of something, be it an electronic component or an electronics engineer, kind of appeals to me :)

[@justsumguy2u]

I would never recommend reforming electrolytics, as the effects are oftentimes short-lived. Is it really worth risking a power transformer? If one is concerned with original appearance, simply leave the old can up top (but disconnected) and install modern electrolytics under the chassis, out of sight.

[@jamieostrowski4447]

I don't trust modern capacitors 100%. I don't even trust them 80%, just because I've seen so many of them bulging after 5-10 years and needing replacement. Who knows what's coming out of China these days. I also remember the "CapacitorElectrolyteGate"...the Chinese caps that were made with the tainted electrolyte. Even modern caps can only sit on the shelf so long before they need to be reformed themselves! Using modern caps only gives someone a false sense of security.

[@sterlinglombard]

@@jamieostrowski4447 Then you've probably purchased cheap knock-off capacitors. These are considered top brands: Rubycon. United Chemi-Con (or Nippon Chemi-Con) Nichicon. Sanyo/Suncon. Panasonic. Hitachi. FPCAP or Functional Polymer Capacitor (ex-Fujitsu caps segment, which was bought by Nichicon) ELNA.

[@hernancoronel]

Do you have statistics on that fact? It’d be great to have data for either of these scenarios. Thanks!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

I can only go by my own experience. I’ve never had a failure so far, but it could happen.

[@rosshollinger8097]

I'm a replace-with-Rubycon-and-forget kinda guy, myself.

[@anandarochisha]

This is exactly how i was taught in the 70's in school to do this. My prof said it was a stop gap measure, as in the old days these items were considered pricy. I was taught that the life on these types of electrolytic cans in regular use can last over 60 years. If the radio or amp is not in regular use it can downgrade the life to 25 or 30 years. His thoughts were that reforming could extend the life about 5 years or so if the unit went back into regular use.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

I’ve had quite a few of these working for some time after the reforming, and they’ve behaved very well. I know that sooner or later age will win out, but until then, they seem fine.

[@robtitheridge9708]

good video i have been reforming electrolytic caps for over 20 years with no problems but when ever i suggest it i get grief mainly from the USA where i believe these caps are easy to get hold of .. i use a bush DAC90A that had the filter caps reformed 10 years ago and it is still fine .

[@electronicsoldandnew]

rob titheridge : same experience here - no problems with reformed caps, and tons of criticism from some who disagree.

[@jackallen6261]

Cheers from western Oklahoma. I think the reason is that here where I am it's very dry most of the year and the electrolytic material dry's out much more and more quickly than say in England where it's more humid. I have gotten 50's model guitar amps from the east coast that had fine caps almost perfect but most I see from the desert states are completely wasted! Just a thought. Have a great day!!

[@CraigHollabaugh]

Thanks for the video, very informative.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Craig Hollabaugh : my pleasure.

[@Ricobass0]

We found we had to inject distilled water into the caps on a very old American Scott radio. Before reforming the PSU caps, it used to hum when upright. When laid on its side you could hear the water sloshing and the hum reducing.

[@klingonbaronessprincesskar5519]

Question the new caps seam a lot smaller in filter caps a fraction of size is this a problem they are the same voltage and mfd

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Not a problem as long as the voltage rating is correct.

[@DeadKoby]

I've found some old caps in Amps that were not run at peak voltage... such as a 450V cap that saw 380V for most of its life. Those usually are not failing. Some circuits would run those 450v close to peak, and that would shorten the life.

[@michvod]

I had new capacitors blow on amps that the repairman put a 450V new cap where the old one was also 450V. The circuit has about 420-430V DC with an AC ripple of 500V since it is being used as an smoothing cap. So the cap sees voltages from 420 to 500V. New caps are not tolerant of any overvoltage spikes, but the old caps ran for 40 years like that since they were tolerant of +10-20% voltage no problem. The solution was then to use 550V cap which I didn't had at hand, so we reused the old capacitors that were taken out of amp just a month ago and were luckily still saved from the bin. B+ line was nicely protected with a low amperage fuse even before, so I had no problem leaving them in circuit. The whole recapping was started not because of a problem with the amp, but with the internet forum suggestions that a recap will make it perform better. But the repairman who did the main smoothing filters missed the negative bias caps that are supplied with a negative voltage through a 220K resistor. Those were leaking a bit since the 220K resistor was not letting enough current to keep them reformed. This effected the bias, making the output tubes draw a lot of current.

[@mar.i4399]

Good, I have a radio that when I turn it on it works well and after a while the sound starts to distort what could it be? thanks

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Could be the caps, or the tubes themselves.

[@mar.i4399]

@@electronicsoldandnew the valves I don't think it is because I already changed them for ones that are working on another radio and the symptom needs it. the model is grrundig 3068 thanks again

[@mtabernig]

how do you replenish the electrolyte?

[@electronicsoldandnew]

+mtabernig : these have not leaked the electrolyte, so you don't replenish the electrolyte at all. If you get a capacitor can that has leaked everywhere, then its time to swap it, and reforming will not work.

[@daleburrell6273]

I don't see how that is even POSSIBLE!!!

[@briansmith9698]

Electronics Old and New by M Caldeira is it possible to reform the wax and paper capacitors also? Can you buy new old stock electrolytic capacitors or new electrolytic capacitors still? Can you still buy the wax and paper capacitors? How long do vintage capacitors last?

[@electronicsoldandnew]

You cannot reform wax and paper caps. These should be replaced with film caps which are readily available. You should not buy old stock electrolytics as they are probably dry. I usually replace vintage caps if they are older than 20/30 years, but it depends on the cap.

[@classicsamusaran3817]

Electrolytic capacitors mounted on electronic circuits of devices manufactured after 1990 can remain unused for as long as possible without this disuse causing failures and depolarization in the electrolytic capacitors?

[@electronicsoldandnew]

I’m not sure I can give you a scientific answer to that, because obviously the capacitor technology has been improving over the years, I have, however, replaced bad capacitors from equipment built in that era .

[@jassenjj]

Hi Manuel! Currently I am working on a radio which has this very same capacitor (2x50uF, NSF, exactly the same print on the can). The capacitor works great, has no signs of chemical leakage, the top rubber notch is still there, electrically is in perfect condition, the date code is 2.12.1955. Given that I am going to use the radio (Biennophone Ascona 5505) as a daily driver, I am concerned with reliability. What is your opinion on reusing the original filter caps as of Q4, 2021?

[@electronicsoldandnew]

As you plan to put it to daily use, I would probably advise changing them. This will give you peace of mind in the long term.

[@jassenjj]

@@electronicsoldandnew Thank you for the response, highly appreciated :)

[@cryptonitor9855]

Brilliant!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@Strange_Brew]

when dealing with the filter can and replacement of the caps. I follow the Nike method. “Just do it!”

[@jamieostrowski4447]

Why? I don't have a lot of confidence in modern capacitors. Who knows what kind of crazy electrolyte compound they're loaded with these days or where they're really made. "In short"...pardon the pun...many of the older caps were made better to begin with.

[@sterlinglombard]

@@jamieostrowski4447 Capacitors have a shelf-life like milk. When you're dealing with an older capacitor, you're dealing with 75 to 80 years worth of drying out and paper becoming acidic. Modern capacitor technology is by magnitude better than when they were designed back then. Yes, you will still have to periodically replace them, but that was even more true with older capacitors. When tube radios were first built, they were only built with a 10-year shelf-life in mind.

[@michvod]

​@@sterlinglombard When tube radios were first built, the electrolytic capacitors were not even invented yet. So capacitors made in the late 1920s and 1930s didn't last more than 10 years usually, so it is a rare sight to find a radio from this era with the original smoothing filter caps. Also those had a tendency to short, as well as open up. But in the late fifties to mid sixties, the capacitor technology improved so much that a vast majority of those caps are still in perfect order. One would think that they would dry out or spoil by some chance, but in those times the term environmentally friendly wasn't invented yet. So they just made them the best they could and also put some nasty stuff in there that lasts, no expense spared. More toxic the stuff, the longer it will last. Like a lead paint, it is also toxic, but it outlasts almost all newer paints in outside environments. Then in late 1980s to early 1990s they started to make capacitors cheaper and cheaper and in some cases they used new technologies that performed excellent, but resulted in capacitor leaking and destroying the circuit board (google SMD leaking caps). For instance, repairing a vintage Macintosh from 1984 didn't require any new caps, but one from 1989 needed a full recap. So those caps from the fifties, sixties and seventies might be one of the best caps ever made.

[@Dutchamp]

@@jamieostrowski4447 your completely wrong Jamie. The way electrolytes preform is totally out preforming old electrolytes, if all old dielectric is lost in old caps, then you can try to re life them but in successfull. New methodes and much better dielectrics out stand the old caps.

[@zorka4098]

So in reforming a capacitor, what is the effective life given to such? Wouldn't these possibly just begin creating an issue say, one year down the road? I am all for maintaining the authenticity of the radio, but I am wondering if restuffing the can with newer electrolytics would give the radio a longer life - especially if the repair is being done for someone else. Thoughts?

[@electronicsoldandnew]

zorka4098 : the truth is that I can't answer that question. I agree that re-stuffing them is the ultimate correct procedure, but I also wanted to try this option. My thoughts are that the leakage problem is solved by this means, because you affectively force the capacitor to reform the aluminium oxide layer on the plates, and hence stop the leakage. The cacti or (aluminium type) actually self-heals with use. This does nothing to the quality of the electrolyte material inside however. Electrolyte can dry out, and hence the capacitor will lose its properties over time. My logic is that if I reform it satisfactorily to reduce or eliminate the leakage, then measure a good enough capacity value and low ESR, i have affectively got a good capacitor (for now). As these radios are all mine, I can afford to put this theory to the test without annoying anyone else.

[@ifixmycarmyself2502]

Tank you for the video, just a question. Is it not possible to reform the capacitor by leaving it with and just switch power on and let it run. Connected in its original position?

[@electronicsoldandnew]

You can do that but it’s a little rough on the caps getting full voltage right away. You should ideally start at a lower voltage and increase over time.

[@abeleballestri612]

Thanks very much for this very tutorial practical way of reforming electrolytic capacitors without dismantling them from their original site. I particularly liked the "capacitor reformer power supply wither voltmeter and ammeters connected . Did you mount it yourself or is it available to purchase it somewhere? I would be thankful to you if you can suggest me where to buy it here. Thanks a lot for the nice video.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

abele ballestri : this tester is actually one I designed and built myself, and I have a full playlist on the project. Look in my playlists section and you'll find it there. It really works very well, and has become very useful.

[@Bbendfender]

I bought a bunch of old can caps today. Most are from 1970-80. Will it benefit me to reform them. I tested some and they were out of range. Some were over 20% over.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

TeleWacker : I think reforming them will make quite an improvement on their working. Capacitors that old will definitely be in need of some help.

[@daleburrell6273]

Aluminum electrolytic capacitors have a very wide tolerance range.

[@jeffbrooks7246]

I've re-stuffed can caps, it ain't fun. This is great man!

[@sarahhoward9081]

Can you do this with the wax/paper caps?

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Yes you can. Takes a bit of care, but can be done. In fact, I do just that in my next video (out by the weekend).

[@sterlinglombard]

No, you should not - just buy new capacitors from tubesandmore.com - and I'm not affiliated with them, but but they always provide quality.

[@robertmeyer4744]

when working with 450V to 600V caps in RF tube amps I found over the years this only works for a wile. I did it on a heathkit SB 200. worked for 6 months then on day after talking for a hour the caps blew apart burn the pcb. made a mess.

[@EsotericArctos]

I never trust reforming. If the electrolyte has dried out there is no way to rewet it, so this would only be very temporary at best. Caps are so cheap, if you want authentic look, the restuffing is a better option, though I don't mind the caps on the underside and leaving the can in place. For the sake of a few dollars, it is not only quicker to replace, but much more reliable. A reformed cap could still short anytime. I love preserving the original look, and this is great if you want to not muck around, being aware it is temporary. I just give my preference because I do prefer my hobbies to be regular use as well and not shelf queens :). Great video though. I do enjoy your restores in general.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Thanks

[@noelwilliams3224]

Instead of re-stuffing the can, isn't it easier just to cut the wires leading to the can under the chassis and install new capacitors below? OR why does the capacitors have to be in a can?

[@electronicsoldandnew]

+Noel Williams : the caps don't need to be in the can. You can just put them below and save a lot of time, but I like to keep the radio as 'original' looking as possible.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

+Dread nought : yes. These caps are very visible on top of the radio, so I like to keep the same look.

[@daleburrell6273]

@Finder Outer An awful lot of electronic parts are simply not being made any more! ...and even if you could find an original NOS capacitor- chances are, it would be in no better condition than the capacitor you are replacing!!

[@waynegram8907]

M CALDEIRA, I'm not understand why the capacitances electrolytic chemicals reform from only apply 100vdc across the capacitor terminals for an hour then apply 200vdc for an hour an then apply 300vdc across the caps terminals for an hour that this will fix and reform the electrolytic chemicals, any reasons why?

[@electronicsoldandnew]

The application of voltage can cause small faults on the capacitor plates to “self-heal”, due to the formation of Aliminium Oxide. However, if you suddenly apply too high a voltage, the faults break down even more instead of healing. That’s why a gradual increase of voltage is recommended for this purpose.

[@waynegram8907]

@@electronicsoldandnew So its Self Healing the Formation of the Aliminium Oxide rolled paper in the capacitor?

[@phildelfosse8085]

Pushing further the idea of not disturbing much the radio...what about removing all the tubes (if Se rectifier is used) and powering the radio with a variac and gradually increasing the voltage (50 V increments every 6 h) I have no other variable power supply ?

[@electronicsoldandnew]

That is certainly better than blasting the radio with full voltage suddenly. You have to keep an eye on it though.

[@phildelfosse8085]

@@electronicsoldandnew Thanks ! I am a big fan of your video. You have Real pédagogic skills with a good sense of humour.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Thanks

[@gardengnome4208]

Very good explanation of the process! I would like to know if you can put all of the sections of such capacitor in parallel and reform it that way to save time, since most of these big can caps are usually 100 300 or 500uF split into sections of 50+50 uF and so on, thanks!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Yes you can, but you need to be careful as one section may be in worse condition than the other. You can reform them in parallel and then just test each section separately at the end to check that all are fine.

[@gardengnome4208]

thanks!

[@littlebearish]

I have an older Philco turntable that has a tin can multi-capacitor inside of it. The hum is so bad it's almost unbearable at this point. The caps are, 80μf at 150 vdc. 20μf at 150 vdc. And 20μf at 50 vdc. I know the voltage isn't super important as long as you stay at or above the rating. And I can find the 20μf caps for sale, but I've had no luck finding an 80μf cap that isn't a huge motor start capacitor. Where do you buy your caps from, or do you have any suggestions on where I can find them? I've asked on lots of videos for antique audio repair but so far not a single person has replied to me. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

I'm not sure you'll find the 80uF because that is a value that is no longer 'standard'. I would suggest you use one of the standard values like the 82uF, or even the more common 100uF. If it is used for filtering, the extra capacity shouldn't do any harm.

[@littlebearish]

@@electronicsoldandnew Thank you so much for the reply. You are legit the first one who has responded to me on this issue I'm having. Very much appreciated.

[@emitterfollower7328]

@@littlebearish Try justradios.com they do have 80uf 160V on their price list :-)

[@vidasvv]

Enjoyed your video , tnx for sharing ! 73 N8AUM

[@gardengnome4208]

Also, does the reforming process last a long period of time or just a few days or weeks, I reformed a lot of nos frako and ROE caps and I don't want them to go bang in 2 days, thanks again! :)

[@electronicsoldandnew]

gardengnome420 : when I do it, they normally take a few hours at most. If it takes longer they probably are too far gone.

[@gardengnome4208]

oh, mine took about 2 hours, so i guess they're fine. EDIT: what I meant to say was after you reform a capacitor, how long does the capacitor last not the reforming itself, thanks for clearing it up.

[@SamSpastic]

I always check nos caps and reform. Even check new caps to be sure.

[@bigmac1k97]

Are you from South Africa?

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Yes. Grew up in PMB. Now in Madeira.

[@bigmac1k97]

@@electronicsoldandnew I'm in Durban at the moment. Fellow South African just getting into building tube amps.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Went to varsity there. My brother lives in Durban. How is the tube gear scene in SA these days? Can you get parts locally?

[@GeorgeZ213]

Even some solid state equipment uses very large electrolytic caps. Stand up Video games often have a cap rated at 20,000 microfarad on the psu.

[@bofor3948]

Have been enjoying your videos and your approach to restorations. However when it comes to the Electrolytic smoothing caps of great age definately disconnect and replace with new physically smaller caps underneath. Yes, many will reform but they are still a big risk going forward and their sudden failure going to short could fry the power supply transformer. The transformers are harder to find and very expensive.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@patfromamboy]

Are you South African? Your accent sounds familiar. Great video.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

patfromamboy : grew up and studied there. Harrismith, PMB then varsity in Durban.

[@patfromamboy]

@@electronicsoldandnew I visited a family in Durban. I met them online. It was an amazing experience. The Tiplady family. We went all over KZN. Now I recognize the accent.

[@Dutchamp]

Logical methode but but but... Can you garanty the cap will preform the next year's? I wouldn't do it. But interesesting video

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍

[@erin19030]

I had an old cap from a late 20's radio that leaked Sea water.

[@lomgshorts3]

This troubles me, as it is better to replace than to "reform". I have been working with tube and transistor receivers and transmitters for 50 years now, and reforming lasts for only days or weeks at the best, then you have to do the work anyway. Once the electrolytic starts to leak (both physically and electrically) replacement is your only option. Best to replace and have it last another 20-30 years than have the reformed caps fail shortly.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

I have since come to the same conclusion. The only exception is maybe new old stock caps that have been lying dormant for some time.

[@elamriti]

the hum is not always caps can also be relais

[@davidhollfelder9940]

Chickhead knobs .. nice touch ..

[@electronicsoldandnew]

😊

[@garybevis8691]

In 40 and 50 years ago, electrolytic capacitors were expensive. Now days they can had for a few dollars each (not the metal can type, nor necessary) consideration that the problems with leaking (electrical) caps in tube gear is just asking for trouble. The cost or unobtainable transformer is not the risk of smoking a transformer into a briquette vs. cheap caps. I never do that, I cut remove the old wires from the caps from the circuit and add new, good quality caps under the chassis. That is my 2 cents worth I think.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Thanks for your input.

[@jackallen6261]

Very Cool! Just subbed!

[@tubeDude48]

I always give you a thumbs-up, but I don't agree with reforming. I always buy new caps.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

👍🏼

[@daleburrell6273]

...send the capacitor(s) to REFORM SCHOOL(?!) get it? get it? get it? get it? SNUCKER-SNUCKER-SNUCKER!!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Good idea. If I build another one I’ll call a leakage tester and reform school. Hope you don’t mind.

[@daleburrell6273]

@@electronicsoldandnew BE MY GUEST- I'D BE DELIGHTED AND FLATTERED!! ...and if I might make a suggestion: fix up the new test set to look like a tiny schoolhouse(?)

[@martinda7446]

Everybody else runs their old stuff up on a variac.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Martin D A : you can if you want to power the whole circuit.

[@martinda7446]

It's nice to check an individual reservoir cap for health, but just for time reasons you can bring up all caps - and the whole thing - slowly on your variac - if they gonna reform they now will, exactly in same manner as your technique. If you choose the correct aluminium electrolytic for your circuit and are careful with heat and voltage - they can easily last for a 100 years! (Some have already survived 70).

[@martinda7446]

PS - and of course a finger is a good temperature sensor. Great video though, very enjoyable.

[@robertopinheirolemes1931]

comentários muito rápido raciocínio dificil de entender negativo

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Noted.

[@harrystevens3885]

I like your video, I see what your doing I understand what your doing but I disagree with what you are doing simply because your are missing one important factor and that is the age of these capacitors. I am replacing the same capacitor types and values on a PYE Model VHF 2D radio and they are nearly 60 years old!!. ......Anyway enjoyed the video a lot and gets a like but i am afraid my caps go in the bin.....:)

[@jeremytravis360]

I often wondered about reforming capacitors but never knew anything about it. I guess that the electrolyte must eventually change or dry out so it does not work but as I have no experience I will look to others for an answer. I was told that reforming capacitors should not be rushed and that it could take a week for one capacitor. It was the same with TV guns and doing some reverse voltage ion the tube to extend its life. Perhaps it's more about extension of life. In the days of transformers it was easy enough to connect equipment though an auto transformer and start it off at 10 volts.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Jeremy Travis : You cannot guarantee that reforming will work every time, but it’s worked for me most of the time. Also, reforming actually continues as long as power is connected and voltage is present, so it is in effect a “self-repairing” process, unless they are completely dry. In that case, you really have to replace the caps.

[@mrGoesto11]

How come everytime I watch a reform ecap video, the comments are all negative? I wonder how many repairmen made a living replacing caps needlessly over the past 50 years.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

mrGoesto11 : Yes, this is indeed a touchy subject.

[@ralphmowery2898]

If you are repairing electronics for a living,it is best to just replace the capacitors. First is the time factor, this fellow has screwed around all day doing the reformatting. At 40 to 100 bucks an hour, he could buy lots of capacitors. Second, if the reformatted cap fails within a month or so , the device comes back and maybe a free repair, or gets a bad mouth and may loose business from others. I worked at a large company and a repairman came in to repair a very large motor speed control. It operates on 3 phase power. Two large diodes were bad. It had 3 so I asked him to replace the 3 rd one. He said they are about $ 200 each. I said so what ? the equipment down time is about $ 1000 an hour. If I have to call you back, hard telling how much the down time plus a recall will be. That 3 rd diode may have never have gong bad, but why gamble $ 200 against many thousand. Electrolytic capacitors usually have a design lifetime depending on several factors. Now if you have some new ones that are old , they may reform fine as they can loose the 'forming ' just sitting around unused.

[@daleburrell6273]

@@ralphmowery2898 That's perfectly true: "TIME IS MONEY!!"

[@holgers5216]

not sure why you're wasting your time re forming decades old electro caps. The cost of replacing them is low enough to ensure years of trouble free operation!

[@electronicsoldandnew]

I prefer to restore as much as I can, and time ... well since this is my hobby, time is never wasted, just enjoyably spent. If I was doing this as a job, then I fully agree with you.

[@Coffeebreak6329]

Take an ESR meter reading and if its bad replace it. Dont be stupid, dont follow this guy.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

I agree folks. Be stupid and follow THIS guy. Couldn’t resist.

[@nor4277]

I rather replace the caps,instead of trusting old dried out caps,it safer for the radio or whatever you are working on ,reforming I would never trust,caps don't cost that much.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Ron Thompson : I often do that myself, but depends on the state of the existing cap.

[@nor4277]

@@electronicsoldandnew if its that old ,I donrt want to repair something twice ,I dont want to have to take it apart a few weeks down the road,I often thought if you replace most of the caps but not all you put a strain on the older caps ,but I understand there are some caps that are hard to replace,There are some a pain to replace ,and I afraid of makeing a mistake,I am still learning ,