1970 TR6 - Part 43 - Finishing The Brakes and Fuel Systems

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Күн бұрын

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@BruceBoschek 8 ай бұрын

That starter is a keeper! Making great progress. Love your discussions and thinking. Thanks, Elin! Have a a peaceful Sunday.

@MikeAarset 8 ай бұрын

Many other shops would charge the customer for that fuel line. You are a great guy Elin

@mikedx2706 8 ай бұрын

I use white distilled vinegar to clean out the rust in gas tanks. It's environmentally safe to use and won't burn you or poison gas you like muriatic does. Fill the tank with vinegar, let it sit for a day, pour to out. Refill tank with water and a box of baking soda to neutralize the acid and let it sit for an hour. Next drain out the water and dry the inside of the tank with a heat gun or hair dryer, then coat the inside of the tank with ATF. Pour a pint of ATF into the tank and shake the tank to coat it all over to prevent flash rust. When you eventually fill the tank with gas, it will absorb the ATF.

@philtucker1224 8 ай бұрын

Did you suggest filling the whole gas tank with vinegar? Like 10 gallons? Are you mad? 🤔

@Welder-y5x 8 ай бұрын

Sound advice

@jimconklin8040 8 ай бұрын

Another great job, Elin. when I was going through my fuel line issue, I used several cans of carb cleaner and a bicycle brake cable to snake out the hardened crud. once I broke through it, I sprayed carb cleaner into the tube and let it sit overnight. I repeated this several times, then used the same cable, but this time the outside springy part, minus the coating, and hooked it up to a battery powered drill. A few times doing this and more carb spray worked well.

@iceman9678 8 ай бұрын

Seeing you work on those brakes gets me pumped! Nice job!

@philstaples8122 8 ай бұрын

Good idea putting some of your knowledge on a website, not sure if that's new or not but I like the idea, well done

@mikedx2706 8 ай бұрын

The tank has two vents as part of the gas vapor recovery system. One vent is for sucking the gas fumes out of the tank and into the charcoal canister when the engine is running. The other vent is for allowing "make-up" air to get back into the tank so a vacuum is not formed when the fumes are sucked out by the running engine.

@Welder-y5x 8 ай бұрын

Buy a pipe straightening tool, frost tools sell them, pop it on the end and run it up and down, it makes bent pipes like new.

@pda49184 8 ай бұрын

Great work again Elin.. Another step closer to a test drive ..

@alexanderduncan4302 8 ай бұрын

The petrol gauge works on the desyn principle they used to be called desyn transmitters many years ago (when I was still young!) just a variable resistor really ! Regards, Sandy 🔧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

@dougaustintx 8 ай бұрын

Going to silicone Dot5 brake fluid is the smartest thing we can do for our old collectibles (along with only using non-ethanol gasoline).

@leonguyot4991 8 ай бұрын

And using high ZDDP (1200ppm) Engine Oil

@cheftush 8 ай бұрын

Great progress.

@tomswindler64 8 ай бұрын

Nice,great little video 😎😎😎👍👍👍

@davidwarr8600 8 ай бұрын

Another great video.

@robertfountain4856 8 ай бұрын

Thanks again for an informative warts and all video.

@leonguyot4991 8 ай бұрын

I am a big fan of speed bleeder nipples, they have a one-way valve, so I can easily bleed my brakes alone. I have NFI in speed bleeders.

@johnmoruzzi7236 8 ай бұрын

Elin when you are next at an Autojumble look out for a Whitworth adjustable spanner to go with your Metric and Imperial ones, in case you ever need to work on a Series 3 Land Rover or an old British motorcycle….

@philtucker1224 8 ай бұрын

🤔🤣🤣😂

@Welder-y5x 8 ай бұрын

@Rugbyman269....how about those felt nails

@leonguyot4991 8 ай бұрын

Flushing out is a great idea, but my experience tells me that when changing from DOT 4 to DOT 5, you must have all new rubber seals, otherwise the different swell rates of the seals may cause sticking? of course, YMMV.

@johnmalone407 8 ай бұрын

I’m holding my breath. I hope she starts!

@alanm.4298 8 ай бұрын

Soooo, still a little work to be done on the brakes. I'll be interested to see how you change out the PDWA without a lot of spilled fluid. Always learning from you, Elin! Do you ever disassemble the calipers? The reason I ask is a photo on one of my Facebook groups showed what was inside a caliper someone had taken apart. There was an ugly "bunch of gunk" (for lack of a better term) trapped inside. It looked like just removing the pistons would have allowed most of it to be cleaned out. But maybe not all. I noticed on that TR6 the brake lines to the rear are on the driver's side of the car, making the passenger (right) rear the farthest from the master cylinder and the 1st to be bled, just as you did. It's not a terribly big deal, but on my TR4 (also LH drive) the long brake line to the rear is on passenger side, so the left rear is actually the farthest from the MC, measuring the lengths of the pipes and hoses. So while possible to bleed starting from the right rear, in my car it is better to bleed the left rear 1st. I wonder how many other TRs are the same? I don't know what would apply to righthand drive cars, either. It might make the bleeding job a little eaaier to first check the routing of the pipes and hoses. You can't always rely upon a straight measurement from the MC to the rear wheels to determine which is farthest.

@Welder-y5x 8 ай бұрын

Adjustable imperial wrench???? Surly you need the metric one Elin. And don't forget to fill the corner's of the reservoir and push the fluid down to stop bumpy fluid.