ENAMEL CHIPPING & POLISHED METAL "HOW TO" GUIDE

Time for another guide from Scale War Machines (www.scalewarmachines.com).
In this "How To", we look at a simple technique to depict heavily weathered metal & damaged paint effects - as seen in a dry desert environment - using Enamels & a blending stump laden with graphite.
Our chosen model subject is a classic - the 1:35th scale Tamiya LRDG 30cwt Chevrolet.
Enjoy!
Please visit us:
www.scalewarmachines.com
Or give us a like:
ScaleWarMachines-293419497431404/
A +1:
plus.google.com/b/101900881104831985371/101900881104831985371/posts
Or join our Google+ Community:
plus.google.com/communities/100585513617534645303
We're also on Twitter:
ScaleWarMachine
Copyright © 2016 Scale War Machines All Rights Reserved

[@TrainsandDioramas]

Short, sweet and to the point! That’s how tutorials should be.

[@biggee9266]

Always a good day when u post a new vid!

[@Panzermeister36]

Very helpful video! Thank you very much for making it :)

[@cuhurun]

Excellent work, a really top job !

[@robholton8153]

exceptional, thank you

[@kimandersendk]

nice tutorial

[@quantumplastic]

Thank you, Nice video like always....

[@norbertogonzalez9738]

Super !!!!

[@francispare1310]

If you use enamel for the chipping, and painted the model with acrylic, do you have to protect with clear coat of some sort?

[@scalewarmachines]

No - the acrylic will be immune to the white spirits or solvents of the enamel work. That's how we painted the LRDG Chevrolet & we didn't use a clear coat.

[@Ar-kx4hp]

👍🏻

[@breadiztasty]

Must you topcoat after adding on the graphite?

[@scalewarmachines]

Yes if you want to be sure it never gets rubbed off. If you won't be handling the model, just leave it, you can always reapply later.

[@kettyparenzan373]

hi, grat job! By the way, do you use domething to bind the graphite pigments to the below layers or you just leave it there without adding anything more?

[@scalewarmachines]

Thanks - no, we generally just leave it, if it rubs off, just re-apply.

[@kettyparenzan373]

@@scalewarmachines thanks!

[@UncleB1735]

I know it's a while ago now, but can you remember how the LRDG vehicle was painted? Also, what stowage did you use? Thanks.

[@scalewarmachines]

I can’t really remember but I think it was Vallejo surface primer and then enamels, I would need to watch it back. It’s still sitting on the shelf somewhat unfinished awaiting crew and diorama! Stowage was Black Dog with some customisation by me.

[@UncleB1735]

@@scalewarmachines Thanks for your reply. It's a really nice authentic paint job, hope mine comes out that well.

[@francispare1310]

You say removing with white spirits if we're not happy with the results...but the white spirits isnt going to attack the acrylic paint ?

[@scalewarmachines]

No - it will be unaffected.

[@alexander7591]

Great, thank you for your excellent work! Visit us on our new))

[@huntercraft1668]

good technique, but useless as many modellers use enamels and oils for nearly every step of the weathering phase, the chipping would be worn away by all of the thinner used sadly! :(

[@scalewarmachines]

Just seal enamels or oils with a coat of Future or Klear, you can weather as normal without worrying about attacking the enamels or oils underneath. So you could still use the technique!

[@huntercraft1668]

The chipping stage from what I have learned and experienced, is part of the layers that give a "natural finish" and have a different sheen than the rest of the finish! So clear coat would ruin that! But I guess the only way to use the technique is if you use acrylics for all other weathering, which is pretty hard...

[@scalewarmachines]

Acrylic weathering 100% is pretty hard but we are making a couple of videos to show it can be done & how to do it. On an enamel-painted kit you'd have to base coat - seal - chip - seal then weather as normal but it could work. You're right though it's not ideal...

[@benweber888]

Hunter Craft this comment is a bit late but you could go in with a very fine airbrush and airbrush on some Matt varnish very carefully on those areas... doesn't seem too hard (and I'm a noob)