Enclosing the Prusa XL - SUMO!

[@sander915]

Omg, I watched every episode of Joseph Willis designing and building this, it's so good to see Joel putting it on his xl!

[@FuttFel]

I've printed PETG parts and then taken pliers and broken them apart. And they've come apart not along the layer lines, but as a homogeneous structure. In my experience, PETG is not brittle at all. You just gotta print it really hot so it comes out shiny and really bonds well to the previous layer. I typically print at 255-260° or so.

[@awilliams1701]

I still don't know why prusa didn't make it enclosed in the first place. lol

[@falxonPSN]

Because it's already $4500! I shudder to think what the cost would have been at Prusa rates for fully enclosed.

[@Todestelzer]

For this price not providing a enclosure is insane. A couple PC panels and that’s it. If they would have design the printer to be enclosed in the first place… The price would maybe around 100$ for the PC if they bought it in bigger batches.

[@awilliams1701]

@@Todestelzer right!

[@kylequinn1963]

@@falxonPSN That's the point. For the insane price they want for this machine it should already be enclosed, hell it should probably make you breakfast too. What an insane price for a 3D printer. I was so excited to buy this until they released the price, here in Canada I can buy a freaking used truck for the price of this printer.

[@NewShockerGuy]

Ditto! I don't know why they didn't incorportate that accordian style pop up like what was shown in the beginning of a preview for it. But even then this should have been designed or modeled with it being enclosed. it's nice that they did it with the Core One but we are paying a premium for prusa so have some features that make it so it's a one and done printer.

[@YourBuddyDinec]

I love 3D Sourcerer. I have some acrylic panels from him for my Lack (v2) enclosure with a Sunlu S4 dryer mounted on top of it 😁

[@bluerider0988]

I have this enclosure and really like it. I also printed mine from PETG and really struggled. I ended up redesigning the parts with even thickness wall sections everywhere and no infill to help with warping and the shrinkage of PETG. I also eliminated the hex pins and made the sections bolt together. You can see my review and build on the Sumo Enclosure on Printables.

[@crashkg]

what's your link on printables?

[@bluerider0988]

@@crashkg Brian_506099. Right now I just have my build on the official Sumo enclosure. If there's enough interest I'm look into uploading the files.

[@bluerider0988]

​@@crashkgKZbin keeps deleting my comment for some reason. Just search out the sumo enclosure on Printables and you'll see my review and build. If there's enough interest I'll consider uploading.

[@davidprock904]

Just a wild idea. Not for temperature control, but for humidity control. A super cheap way, or at least way easier to do. Get a liquid-based treatment that will make treated surfaces super hydrophilic water loving. A vacuum chamber is probably overkill, but to work the liquid treatment into the material even better, use a vacuum chamber. But take a blanket, sheet, whatever, and treat it with that chemical. If your filament drying machine has a port where the moist air comes out of, face that away from your 3D printer but have them beside each other. Throw the super hydrophilic treated blanket or sheet over top of both but snug the blanket up against the dryer so the moist air exhaust port is outside of the enclosed area that the sheet is creating. And have your Moisture detector inside of the sheet with a remote camera on it or just let it sit idle for a while and then start your print. What are your thoughts on this?

[@woodwaker1]

I finished mine and posted a make on Printables January 15, 2024. It is not perfect, but I would rate it at 98%. I had some similar problems and ended up reprinting the parts in ABS on the Prusa XL with the SUMO enclosure with the original parts. I was able to get the internal temperature to hold at 100 degrees F and had only minimal warping on the large ABS prints. It does what it is designed to do and the kit has extra hardware for us that drop parts that go into hiding, much appreciated. Since Prusa has no time line for their enclosure this is the best option on the market and a fair price

[@Smurfman454]

I have been using the Sumo enclosure for a couple weeks now. I found that the PETG idler arms on the filament drive gear need to be replaced with ASA. The original PETG ones couldn’t stand the heat that builds up in the enclosure. I am presently upgrading some of the other core xy components to ASA. Even though I am having to do some upgrades I still love the printer and the enclosure!

[@theheadone]

I got mine put together last week, amazing instructions! My biggest complaint is their use of acrylic with no options for polycarbonate. So sooner or later cracks will form and it will just deteriorate from there. In some parts they did a good job at crack mitigation (thankfully the doors were a good example of that since that'll have the highest chance of cracks forming.

[@bluerider0988]

Just print plastic washers, and you should be fine. That's what I did with mine. I put them under every screw head that was in direct contact with the plexiglass. Polycarbonate will crack too if you overtighten the screws.

[@BrunodeSouzaLino]

Rubber, nylon or plastic washers are a requirement if you're fastening anything to acrylic, policarbonate or glass, especially if it's a thin sheet. For thick acrylic, you don't need it.

[@JohnOlson]

I have their Delack enclosure for my bed slinger and it works really well.

[@Scriven42]

Hammer All The Things!

[@flashforum939]

Look forward to seeing your next projects with the enclosure 🤩

[@3DPrintingNerd]

You and me both!

[@cozmossis68]

You truly do print all the things. Very, very cool!!

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Thank you!

[@kellycoe1787]

As always… great informative video Joel.. thank you.. and thanks for keeping the “oops I printed the wrong pc for the antenna” in the video. I know how many times I’ve “oops” when printing things… its good to see you do as well..

[@michaelbraaten]

I recently purchased an S4. It came out of the box with an error 3. Sunlu told me to open the bottom and check the wiring and such, but I couldn’t find any issues. Had to do an exchange through Amazon; currently waiting on the replacement. I would try a different dryer based on my initial experience, but I really want the 4 spool size, and I haven’t found another one that suits my needs within a reasonable price.

[@magomat6756]

I have also a DIY encloser made 10:06 for the warping on the XL 5 heads.But it's a great workhorse printer.

[@JB-jr3bm]

The enclosure seems to be of good quality. Its one thing to complain about the prusa but the enclosure has one job and its doing it

[@LisaHarsh]

I would print enclosures with ASA/ABS when you will be printing high temp filaments. Looks great. Can’t afford the printer but looks good

[@dennislink1300]

110% agree with that last bit.

[@rescuemethod]

Whoa,..that enclosure is huge

[@ScytheNoire]

Enclosures should be printed in ASA/ABS for the rigidity and temperature tolerance. PETG will get too soft if it gets hot in the enclosure, which is what you should want for good print results.

[@prestonhal]

Except you can’t print the enclosure out of ABS/ASA unless you already have an enclosure.

[@sky-d-kid6376]

@@prestonhal janky cartboard enclosure for the win XD

[@woodwaker1]

I reprinted mine in ABS and it is working great

[@ScytheNoire]

@@prestonhal You can, just need to enclose it a bit and prevent drafts. Shove a box over it. A big box.

[@Ernzt8]

It wasn't a very subtile 3D printer already, but now it can't be overlooked :) Nice touch, the blue tape by the way

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Love that blue tape!

[@purplehaze667]

A bit like a fridge… or a washing machine, not subtle at all.

[@christianlainesse4281]

Sounds like your studio needs an industrial dehumidifier. Side benefit, it will cool down the room in summer.

[@plaisthos]

Be sure to reprint the idler parts. The PETG ones that come with the printer will fail after a time. I reprinted mine in Prusament PC.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Thanks for the tip!

[@InvertedPursuitsLab]

Love this enclosure, From my experience I've found that CA/super glue will fix PETG breaks and cracks.

[@andreasstromberg]

What's the results in temperature? I need a enclosure that can go to 80C plus to avoid warping m. M

[@woodwaker1]

I get mine up to 100 F by only using the bed heater. I would be careful going to 80C with some of the printed parts on the printer.

[@huntliba]

5:31 Over here we have a saying: "Kui jõudu on, siis mõistust pole vaja" (Sila est', uma ne nado - if you know slavic) which translates - "The strong don't need to be smart" :D

[@jakubruzicka1686]

You should add some kind of signature and date of assembly on that tape! And the top hat is huge!

[@MikeKobb]

5:32 I appreciated the Princess Bride reference, Joel, even if it was unintentional. 🙂

[@Arcadenut1]

Once the enclosure is on, how much of a PITA is it to work on the printer? i.e. Getting to the extruders or anything now covered by the enclosure?

[@3DPrintingNerd]

It’s pretty easy once the top is taken off :)

[@Chaos_God_of_Fate]

That's a cool looking enclosure. I want something like this for my laser! Right now I have a 'highly customized' cardboard box as an enclosure- it works surprisingly well, to the point that I've put off building a permanent one so that I can continue easily customizing the box until I'm 100% happy with it, then I'll simply build an identical wooden version. It would be nice to have something that looks a little nicer like this though: function first though, form second!

[@bridget_clinch]

Ha! Only 54% RH, I live in a sub tropical city in Australia, 54 is low, so filament dryers, vacuum bags and colour changing dessicant are essential given my default is PETG.

[@ex-nerd]

I'm really curious about how fumes/etc will work with how open the top-rear of the printer is. Even what we've seen so far of Prusa's upcoming official enclosure looks like it has that same open back (plus even less seal around the front due to the accordion curtain), which suggests that a simple recirculating filter like Prusa's or the Nevermore might not be good enough.

[@TheDzugasvili]

Does it affect loudness too?

[@marekkozlovsky586]

well, obviously, the first thing to print with the enclosure is to reprint the enclosure in ASA :)

[@falxonPSN]

I was thinking that same thing. Man, that just raises the effective price of the enclosure even more though, especially for those of us who only have the XL and no other printers. I wonder if doing a ghetto enclosure with a big-ass cardboard box would be good enough to just go straight to ASA printing.

[@marekkozlovsky586]

@@falxonPSN yes, it would

[@woodwaker1]

I reprinted mine in ABS

[@BLBlackDragon]

PETG door handles with TPU grips?

[@xAsphyxiatee]

ProtoPastas warehouse is like 15 minutes from me. Maybe it's time I order some filament from them!

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Yes!

[@new.one.1307]

Can you share what is name of your humidity/co2 sensor?

[@MrUntermieter]

What a big and colorful monster it is... but impressive build at the end.

[@nickpunch9661]

Inside temps before and after?

[@das250250]

Isn't it 54% relative humidity not degrees?

[@MonkeyButlerLabs]

The 70s TV effect may actually be the best part of the video outside of Joel himself.

[@SkateSoup]

"I convinced it a little too hard" I love that, and I'm completely stealing that for the next time I accidentally hammer something to 💀.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

YES DO IT

[@BrunodeSouzaLino]

It's a bit ironic when your $5,000 printer has to rely on a bodge enclosure from a third party. Makes a really good case for the whole "I want a product and not a project" argument against the XL. I'll still go for the whole "slower and more wasteful" system consisted of a Bambu Labs P1C or X1C with 4 AMS modules, which will still be cheaper than the 5 head XL and doesn't require a $300 enclosure you have to build yourself later. Plus you have 16 colors or materials available.

[@anonymousperson7861]

honestly don't get the point of an XL, it costs more than a voron tapchanger, takes so long to be shipped that you could build a voron in the time and have time to spare, costs as much as 2 x1cs, performs worse than both, and then after it arrives, you have to finish the design for prusa?

[@VincentGroenewold]

But you still can't print many materials I'd say, a lot of colors for sure, but the XL is mainly meant for more than that. They do need the enclosure and they needed it to be included, I agree there.

[@elleryfg7853]

​@@VincentGroenewoldwhich makes you think how rushed or not well designed this printer is. The appeal or advantage of the XL vs other multi material systems is that it can "truly" print different materials, BUT it would need to be enclosed to successfully do that so that kind of cancels that advantage. $5000 for a printer should get you everything you need, No mods needed, No tinkering, EVERYTHING you would need and the XL is not there, not even close.

[@BrunodeSouzaLino]

@@VincentGroenewold The primary issue here, apart from the dozens of issues that were included for free with most XLs when they shipped is the price. If you're charging 5 grand for a printer, you better ship a product and not project, especially when you have competing products which do more or less the same thing in the market already and they work as advertised out of the box like....The Bambu Labs P1C and X1C printers. For people that want a project, they can build a Voron and add the tap changer system, which can use up to 6 heads and still costs less than a XL despite being a complete custom solution.

[@billverine765]

The 80's style montage with bad VCR tracking was awesome. Really like the fact you leave all the mistakes in because it is real life man! Give Elegoo Rapid PETG a try, I have been having great results with it, and it is cheap! For the money they charge for the XL, it should have been enclosed from the factory, just saying.

[@Magician169]

How much does it increase the footprint of the machine?

[@bluerider0988]

It only adds some height. It doesn't increase the width or length since everything attaches directly to the frame.

[@siberia21]

This is asome 🎉and it looks amazing! Good work and: a bit of imperfection is every time good for memory’s!

[@eric_r_colby]

Love the idea to put an enclosure on the XL, but don’t love the options yet. So bulky on an already bulky machine. Also, anyone with an XL use a RepBox? Considering using that and mounting it above the machine for ease of use. I already have a 2 roll dryer and getting another one or a sunlu s4, seems wasteful in my situation and I’d still only be at 4 of the heads without adding a separate single dry on top of that too. Lastly, anyone know why the cables and tubes are so long on these machines. It seems like nearly 1/3 can go away or more, and then add in quick disconnects if you need to work on the head.

[@dariussteele3843]

This looks 100% goofy.

[@DagrtOne]

It’s HUGE!!!!

[@falxonPSN]

"That's what she said."

[@kimhill8342]

Love it good job!

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Thank you!

[@MrDivinePotato]

54% humidity "relatively high" *glances nervously at the local coastal climate*

[@ryandowney9383]

I wonder if you could have used PLA+ for the enclosure.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Ooh I don’t know maybe?

[@NewShockerGuy]

JESUS this thing is gigatic. I want an XL but my god with everything on it, I don' thave the space on my workbench.. I'd have to put this thing on the floor...w0w

[@kennethyuen9849]

The enclosure is too big and tall. There is not enough heat retention. It needs more insulation or an active heater. I have a heater that blows directly at the filament as it enters the enclosure. I don't have to dry filaments cuz the heater dries the filament right before it enters the melting zone. That should be the ideal way to dry the filament and heat the chamber at the same time. There is no waiting for the filament to dry and it only dries the filament used. Drying filament is a major part of 3D printing. Manufacturers should make that a standard feature in their flagship printers! Joel, you have the power to wield this into existence. Pitch this request to manufacturers! I demand it! LOL Pictures and videos of my enclosure available upon request.

[@MegaBlox_YT]

Nice! (i was in the live of the huge printer)

[@BelviGER]

I just ordered an XL and i dont care about the enclosure because i have a massive enclosed printer shelf thats a meter tall, and its perfect for multi color peinting because of a big filament shelf/drier combo Due to the wires/ptfe tube i can not fit the xl into my enclosure in traditional orientation. The outside dimensions are similar to a voron 350 but the extra space it needs is ridiculous

[@SolaAesir]

PETG is a terrible choice for an enclosure if you want to put any heat into it at all. You only get a few degrees more before it starts warping than you would PLA, still well under the level an enclosure should be at for most of the filaments you mentioned. Stick to ASA, ABS, etc unless you're enclosing a RatRig (also made of a lot of PETG) where your printer would be melting anyway if you tried to print at the temperatures required for better filaments.

[@phizicks]

Prusa XL is kind of impractical really for the cost. cost overall of prusa is higher compared to similar of it's kind. if the XL was only 2 head, would be better and save on cost if the others were addons if anyone needs it

[@ProtonOne11]

I'm not a fan of that look. Guess i'll just order some precut aluminium extrusions, precut acrylic sheets and some simple metal hardware and screws to make my own enclosure. Can't be that hard to make a bigger cube that goes around a cube, right? Might make the sidepanels big enough to enclose the filament as well, and just use magnets, so it's quick and easy to remove panels to change spools or do maintenance on the printer.

[@OMentertainment]

as someone who lives in a swamp (Houston), we dream of 50% humidity

[@JanosKehl]

My enclosure would be taped and with the drilled hole for-EVER! :D

[@DoomSlayer-6660]

That thing is wild

[@75keg75]

Would have been good to see print quality once the prusa was in the enclosure. I guess this is the “part 1 unboxing” or “assembly” vid.

[@redshiftz8520]

Or even better, that printer has extrusions on the top and bottom on the left and the right. so all you need is some screws washers and clips with perspex. thast then 3 sides covered. All you need is the door. cost you about 20 quid then.

[@Saveddrip]

or get a dehumidifier?

[@armandsdreijers5983]

Fun fact - this aranet 4 sensor is made by latvian company

[@Konman]

I would have done ABS but PETG should work.

[@asc23channel]

Actually the material then IS hydroscopic, as it absorbs moisture, no matter from where. Same as standard brake fluid etc. Best wishes

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Hygroscopic means to absorb, hydroscopic does not mean that.

[@asc23channel]

@@3DPrintingNerd Hello! That is incorrect. Hydroscopic is, when a material actively attracts and absorbs moisture. This can also be witnessed with DOT 4 etc. brake fluids, because of which they need frequent replacement (lowered boiling point). I’m coincidentally an engineer. Best wishes nonetheless! P.S.: Maybe you were thinking about hydroscopic & hydrophobic.

[@justinl.3587]

@@asc23channel Hydroscopic is not an actual word. Hydroscope is, though. I trust that even though you want to be correct here, you will research this and delete your post.

[@asc23channel]

@@justinl.3587 Indeed, my bad due to language mess up. You (& he) are correct. And no…why should I delete something I stated, even if I made a linguistic mistake?! I’ll simply own it. Best wishes

[@justinl.3587]

So for a $4,000 machine, THIS is the the enclosure? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@adrianharrison5208]

Is that what that printer costs?

[@justinl.3587]

@@adrianharrison5208 the 5 tool head machine shipped is around that price, yes.

[@krollmond7544]

This is not by Prusa

[@justinl.3587]

@@krollmond7544 Thank you captain obvious. What is also obvious is for this price point, this should be enclosed from Prusa.

[@krollmond7544]

@@justinl.3587 you literally acted like this was sold by Prusa you retard, and yes I agree the XL should come with an enclosure.

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

Butt how did it work? 👀

[@catgath9718]

Rig the algorithm!

[@LincolnWorld]

Are they making an enclosure like this for the giant orange printer? LOL I think at that point just close the door in the room it's in and call it an enclosure.

[@falxonPSN]

The OrangeStorm Giga? Dear gods, that would be terrifying. I think a not-so-young kid can fit entirely within that printer as-is.

[@justinbillen3934]

That contraption looks ridiculous.

[@evlsc400]

an enclosure with printed parts so it can print PETG/PLA enclosed! nice! loljk. When do the 3d printed PLA hot ends come out from Prusa? (also jk).

[@cnc-maker]

PETG will fail over time when used on an enclosure. Typically within 1-2 years, but some have reported less than a year.. This is why RatRig no longer supports the use of PETG for their enclosures. Only ABS & ASA is able to hold up over time.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Oh dang! Good to know. I can use this enclosure to print an ABS enclosure:)

[@MikeKobb]

@@3DPrintingNerd Bootstrapping!

[@PLr1c3r]

This seems more like building a house around your printer than an enclosure. It would make more sense to just enclose the build volume to be able to increase temps than try to envelope the whole unit IMHO. Not trying to neg just being honest when it comes to most peoples realistic real estate commodities.

[@kurekureci]

Children in the comments arguing about Prusa on both sides are hilarious

[@kubburdigital]

acrylic has a glass transision temp is around 100c, my bet is that the top plate will be the first to go

[@RossRadford]

I love 3d printing and all, but I think the industry needs a reality check.

[@DonsArtnGames]

To check what?

[@RossRadford]

@@DonsArtnGames That if they think doing the same thing over and over and charging more money for something that has been basic for the last 10 years, it's no wonder they fail. Don't get me wrong, I love the opportunity to tinker and improve upon what I have on my own. It just seems a lot of 3d print companies turn out products for a get-rich-quick-scheme and I'm not for it.

[@elleryfg7853]

They just got it, it's called Bambu Lab.

[@RADkate]

yeah i think long term prusa will do a lulzbot and focus on grifting industry buyers, they clearly cant compete anymore

[@Zyghqwyv]

@@RADkate Ultimaker has been doing that Schtick too. $7000 for an S5 and $8000 for an S7

[@Gigaloader]

PETG actually isn't brittle. It has Glycol in it to make flexible. That's why water bottles are made out of them. If yours is brittle than you have bad filament or false print settings. :)

[@ZaxMan3D]

I don't get why you have a moisture problem, as I have about 15% more moisture than you have when I compare the grams of H2O per KG of air at that moisture level. and I don't have any problem at all with moisture, I don't store filament in bags and don't use dryers 🤷‍♂

[@redshiftz8520]

I dont get it., Why not just buy some extrusions and build a box around it with somne acrilic. Surely it would be cheaper quicker and more affective. Pluss that think look horrendous.

[@kylequinn1963]

The question is, does it actually work?

[@snuups]

I love PLA so much. I would had printed it in PLA Galaxy Black and PLA Prusa Orange. I don't like to print PETG to much. But if I need the properties I do.

[@donamills]

$300 for this kit and you have to print a majoriy of the parts?! F-that, thats insane! For that price, It should at least include a roll if filament.

[@timo4463]

Or preprinted for 600

[@AdventurePrinting]

Liguria, Italy: average year humidity 76%..

[@NihilisticZebra]

Is it or Prusa have been half-assing their products, why would they sell this printer without an enclosure

[@NWalker-zx6xu]

Blippi colors! LMFAO

[@patwicker1358]

Humidity is measured in per centage not degrees. You had 54 per cent humidity

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Yep, I said it wrong. Brain fart. That’s why text on screen was better :)

[@patwicker1358]

@@3DPrintingNerd 🙂

[@genericyoutuber3394]

Wow, sacrificing your kid's baseball game to assemble that abomination. That's dedication lol.

[@ValkyrieForge1986]

looks oke but 300 dollars for some cheap 3mm acrylic cheap hydromiter and some screws and nuts thats just wrong i get that a lot of time when it to designing it and documenting but 300 is way of base you can build a lot better for that money considering its a 4000 dollar printer

[@woodwaker1]

The panels are cut and drilled perfectly, the hardware is sourced and extras supplied, and the work that went into the design and kit assembly. I think the kit was fairly priced - curious to see what Prusa's version will cost.

[@ThorstenWirth]

Fisher-Price

[@empty9360]

Such a shame that the printer is this expensive and doesn’t even have a enclosure. Going back to creality upgrades for a multi thousand dollar machine 😂😂

[@deeply999]

Prusa didnt release an enclosure originally with the MK series either, was added later.

[@empty9360]

@@deeply999 I know but for this price it should be included or the printer should be cheaper. In my eyes the PrusaXL is way to overpriced for what it offers.

[@andreafire27]

Yep and 300$ for some stl files and 6 pieces of transparent plastic? Seems a little to expensive in my opinion

[@BrunodeSouzaLino]

@@deeply999Prusa also didn't sell their i3 printers for 2-5 grand either. Looking at the XL design, it's obvious the printer was designed to have an enclosure, but fear of Bambu Labs made Prusa ship incomplete products.

[@elleryfg7853]

​@@deeply999you're not helping

[@colincampbell3679]

Holy Heck!!!! 3 Kg's of filament for that? Bad enough the printer cost silly money ( about $3500 over priced for a printer really even this type ) But the maker of the encloser is a real clever soul. He manged to sell a product for almost $300 But then the user has to spend even more tons of money on 3 Kg's of filament then print it all using tons of time and electric. That encloser designer is rolling in money for something where the user spends tons of extra money on top of the brought encloser kit on to even use it? Madness. So really this encloser kit will cost really about $400 by the time you buy the good quality 3 Kg of filament ( not cheap ) then the electricity then the time to build it. Not really value then for money when you could enclose the printer for far less money than spending on 3 Kg extra of filament plus all the energy and time.

[@el_mario_reus]

prusa powder🎉🎉🎉🎉

[@alexisschwab9485]

I'm french and it once was the biggest printing company and my first printer were from them back in 2014 but now they have clearly fallen very low

[@blalesnail3098]

Imagine spending $2,000+ on a machine that can't print ABS or ASA without modification.

[@enhidri160]

Prusa fanboys explaining how they need to spend $4,500 on an incapable machine (there’s a better printer for a third of the price)

[@hanslain9729]

Show me a printer that's not enclosed that can do well printing ABS or ASA and I will learn something new.

[@TheNetworkingGuy]

Imagine wanting to shit talk prusa so bad you watch the video within the first hour it's up

[@blalesnail3098]

@@hanslain9729 That's my point. There's no excuse for a printer this expensive not being enclosed. The same way there's no excuse for a thousand dollar printer, the MK4, only having single-sided part cooling. Prusa needs to stop acting like it's 2016.

[@elleryfg7853]

​@@hanslain9729dude, you should delete this comment 🤦

[@Happy3dprinting]

How can I make this printer more ugly? 😂

[@arnoldbailey7550]

All the mistakes, questionable workarounds, and still continues publishing video. You're killing me Smalls.

[@hovedskou]

OMG!! That monster look like a plastic toy in a chinese circus. Have you even looked at it...?? All enclosures for the XL is a little bulky ang ugly, but that one absolutely takes the lead!