End Grain Butt Joint Tips - reinforncing, and using up off-cuts

[@jhh243]

Great video! I like your calm demeanor. Good job on getting to the action and not "fluffing" the video with random things.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers John

[@MRrwmac]

Nice follow up video! I like how you explained all the options!

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers. No doubt there are more options, there are certainly plenty of splices to choose from, but that as they say is another video ;-)

[@ecaff9515]

Excellent video and process. Thanks for sharing.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers

[@arnold7156]

great idea, I just learned something new , thanks mitch again

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers Arnold

[@hardnox6655]

Excellent presentation and explanation.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers Peter

[@ricos1497]

"Hobbyboards" from the various large DIY stores are made up of many off-cuts. I've found them a real pain when using with hand planes due to the opposing grain directions. Basically, try and align the grain when joining all your off cuts to make for a more pleasurable hand planing experience.

[@intotheblue50]

Like your ideas on joining end grain, thanks.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Phil Tams cheers Phil

[@dekeros-recreationalwoodwo6456]

Great tips and very informative video! Thanks for sharing!

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers!

[@bigbilltoady412]

I prefer to cut both ends at 45. Use a good wood glue when putting both together. I clamp each board to a bench a couple of feet away from the joint to keep the 45's from slipping away from each other when I put a clamp right at the joint. After drying I counter sink a couple of screws driven in at angles on either side of the board. Only if the wood is 2X or more. Half the board thickness with a dove tailed lap joint works well too and looks great on top of it. Takes a little more time. Well, a lot more.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Great ideas

[@bigbilltoady412]

@@mitchwoodwork Thanks. The dove tailed lap joint is the strongest. Both male and female should be almost the width of the board.. Take care. God Bless

[@bobaree1]

Is there a router bit that will cut the deep groove to insert a spline?

[@mitchwoodwork]

Yes there is. You can get a grooving bit in different sizes that is often bearing guided. I can't remember how I cut these ones., but probably on a table saw with a rip blade and a homemade tenoning jig to hold the pieces vertical.

[@kevinhalsey3341]

Thanks for the wonderful information on the butt joints and alternatives, Mr. Mitch!

[@mitchwoodwork]

Thanks Kevin

[@danielsolowiej]

Good tricks well explained Mitch!

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers Daniel

[@BDM_PT]

Hi there from Portugal, Nice :D Obrigado(Thanks)

[@mitchwoodwork]

Blog das Madeiras Cheers :D

[@cobberpete1]

Good Info thanks Mitch

[@mitchwoodwork]

Peter Compton Thanks Peter

[@MultiWarrior63]

Thanks Mitch, good info mate

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers mate

[@RayVRoberts]

Nice video work...

[@mitchwoodwork]

Ray Roberts Cheers Ray

[@handydan1591]

How does expansion and contraction effect these joints? Or is it possible that because the splines are cut so thin that there really isn’t a whole lot (if any) movement at all.

[@mitchwoodwork]

The splines are generally parallel grain to the boards, so expansion and contraction work similarly in both - no problem. Where they are closer to being in opposed directions, the thicker boards may be restricted a little as they expand (or try to) more than the splines want to stretch along the grain. I've not encountered a problem myself, but that's not to say it couldn't happen. Interestingly, when using splines to join long grain to long grain (don't really see the point, but you'll find it in books) the splines are deliberately oriented to give a cross grain situation.

[@handydan1591]

Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD well said. Thank you.

[@SteS]

Would mitre epoxy glue be okay also? I have some of that lying around.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Hi Stephen, Never used that, but it sounds like it should be okay. Let me know

[@SteS]

@@mitchwoodwork Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD it's used for skirting board mitres. It sets pretty quick and it's epoxy and all them are super strong. I've went with the half lap joint for my situation. I've just thought of a dovetail straight joint. Maybe a video of that would be good. Cheers.

[@AzinFiro]

Can you use a series of dovetail joints?

[@mitchwoodwork]

Great suggestion! That's a fine way to achieve a joint, and may be acceptable in many situations. Strictly speaking though it is now a dovetailed splice of sorts, rather than a butt joint, and visually quite different. So it depends on the aesthetics, and also the skill available ;-)

[@AzinFiro]

@@mitchwoodwork Skill seems to be the key to all of this. 🙂Thanks for sharing yours with the rest of us.

[@CasualDIY]

Great video! Thanks for the info:)

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers

[@stevecollins9450]

Thanks Mitch.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers Steve

[@ginoasci]

they will all work except for one. that’s where the spline is perpendicular to the grain this will just crack it in half. The green on the two pieces in the spline must run in the same direction.

[@AlabamaManChild]

In my experience, end grain butt joints are much stronger than edge grain…. Just my experience though!

[@BS-Fact-checker]

Way too much talking even when I played it at twice the speed.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Try with it muted ;)