Ender 3 V2 vs BIQU B1 head to head review

[@TeachingTech]

Thanks for all the comments! Some common points and FAQs: The gloss filament is here: www.x3d.com.au/store/product/85597-silk-gloss-pla-1-75mm Reading through the comments, it seems some people love the Creality glass bed, plenty had issues like me. I did clean it plenty with 99% IPA as instructed but it made little difference. It can be turned upside down or replaced easily with a spring steel sheet if so desired. According to the comments here, the consensus on the new PSU for the B1 is the same as used by Creality when not using Meanwell. Not amazing but better than unbranded it seems. Oh, and B1 configs are also available for free for Marlin. Thanks Devs!

[@dasauto7346]

Heya, got my B1 and looked at the hotend in person and in your video. Do you think there's any all-metal hotend that you can drop in or will some funky adapter work be necessary?

[@Allavalle5656]

just got the BIGTREETECH B1 SE Plus for $135

[@SanSan-vy5zg]

Thanks to this I bought my own biqu B1! No regrets and prints great right off the bat!

[@NadDew]

how your experience with it so far? do you still recommend it?

[@scottzukowski4294]

@@NadDew I’ve had mine for a year and a half and have had very minimal problems. And those problems were my fault anyway lol. Over all I will always recommend the biqu. It’s just the best one I’ve had.

[@Dendracide]

On my Creality glass bed nothing would stick until I cleaned it with some IPA on a paper towel. Every dozen prints or so I clean it again and never have adhesion problems

[@boggisthecat]

Twoheadedpanthr It’s what I do. I have noticed that a low ambient temperature will cause prints to lift at the edges. I mostly run the bed at 60 degC and use PLA.

[@ralakus8784]

On my Ender 5 plus, I just remove my build plate, take it to the sink and hand wash it with lukewarm water and dish soap. Works a lot better than IPA in my experience

[@TheMrRockOn]

One suggestion - turn the glass bed upside down and use glue for printers. From that moment you wouldn't have ANY troubles sticking anything on the bed. Glue like - shorturl.at/kpLPW

[@danielhaqim5284]

use paper glue to your bed, it works for me

[@sumorabbit2160]

I flipped my v2 glass bed as I wanted smoother bases. I start my bed off at 60C for the first layers then drop it down to 50C. I also use a bit of PVA glue stick on the bed as well. The PVA cleans off with a little hot water and washing up liquid then a quick wipe down with IPA and a fine microfiber cloth. Still new to 3d printing and only used PLA so far but this seems to work pretty well for me.

[@AndrewAHayes]

The power runout with a textured glass bed is pointless as the bed will cool and release the print, I made this point on another review of the Ender V2 and some numbscull replied " add some G code to the start code of your slicer to keep the glass hot" and I replied "what is the printer going to run on to keep the bed hot? leopards fanny batter perhaps or some other exotic material"

[@TeachingTech]

Gcode to keep the bed on while the power is off; that is a good one. I agree, without the right bed, power loss recovery is useless unless you get to it really quickly.

[@yonggor]

sometime it's not blackout but someone hit the power cord or MCB get tripped. In that case, power runout can still save the print.

[@F2_CPB]

@Blondie SL Textured or not. Prints will self release as long as it's glass. Unless you apply some adhesive

[@F2_CPB]

This is one of reason why I switched back to buildtak. I don't mind prints being harder to remove if I'm getting more reliability. I use a razor blade with handle to get prints off. I will soon switch to spring steel with buildtak

[@f_2476]

@@TeachingTech Hi Michael, thanks for the great tips on various 3D printers, I have a request can you make a review about Anycubic Chiron printer because by far I saw that 3D printer suits my budget on buying a large 3D printer... Many thanks and best regards

[@obebodd5066]

Nice to see this video, just got my Biqu b1 2 days ago. Not disapointed! Highly recommend it to anyone

[@AhmadLafi-TheFirst]

Do you still recommend this printer?

[@obebodd5066]

@@AhmadLafi-TheFirst depends on hos much you like to tinker, it's cheap and sometimes you get what you pay for. Cheap fans in the chassis that starts rumbling and so on. If i were you I would take a look at Biqu BX at kickstarter instead. :)

[@thisiskeithb]

14:14 There's a couple Biqu B1 configs in the Marlin Configurations repo as well 🙂

[@TeachingTech]

Thanks Keith, I should have mentioned this. And thanks for all of your ongoing work on Marlin.

[@secondc0ming]

I was pleased to find this when I wanted to use the BLTouch for z-axis homing. Compiled my own firmware very easily using those configs having never done it before :)

[@thisiskeithb]

@@secondc0ming Thanks for the feedback! I run a slightly tweaked version of this firmware on my B1 with a BLTouch and it's worked great 🙂

[@thespianmask]

A year late, but here's my take about the Ender 3 V2. Funnily enough, I think the problems of the Ender 3 V2 is just the build plate. I bought the printer at around February 2021, and had a crap ton of difficulty printing large objects using the ultrabase part of the glass. I tried printing a model of the Armored Titan, and a corner of the base of the model LIFTED about 8 hours into the print. Small objects were absolutely fine though. I flipped it to the pure glass surface, and prints started sticking well enough. Adhesion was still hit or miss, but I'll take a 70/30 chance rather than no chance with large prints. If I wanted to be ABSOLUTELY sure of adhesion, I would print on a Raft, and it would work 100% of the time. Now, when I ordered the printer, I also ordered a magnetic flex PEI sheet that I never installed because I was afraid I would fuck up sticking the magnetic sticker on the build plate. Just the other day, I installed the PEI sheet, and I had ZERO adhesion problems. It's the third day that I've been using it and holy crap I wish I had just used the sheet from the moment of assembly of the printer. Zero problems at all. PLA sticks so good, it's easy to remove. I'm even using months old green CCTREE PLA filament that I baked to restore it, and the only "problem" the Ender 3 V2 gives me is stringing, but that is more than likely because I'm using ass-old PLA filament that wasn't stored properly.

[@parkergipson4269]

My ender 3 v2 had a problem with prints sticking. I flipped the build plate over and printed on the glass side at 60C on the bed. Now everything sticks a lot better. A bigger nozzle size also seems to help with adhesion to the build plate.

[@kaimelis]

personally never had any pla stick issues. I have two ender 3 v2s. petg is a bit harder to stick slim parts, but 70 deg temperature and cleaning with strong disinfectant wipes (because theres a lot of them going around these days) makes everything quite smooth. prints pop off themselves when cooled off. a few tips for ender 3 v2 users. flash marlin 2 0 7 firmware, set the bed size to 230 x 230 filament guide is quite necessary. clean the bed after each print. retraction is 5,2 mm for me and 1 mm coast for good outer layers.

[@oonie99]

My ender 3 v2 has a nonworking SD card reader out of the box. More than 2 months later and the replacement still hasn't been sent from the seller so I have to run it from a computer all the time. Fans are loud and you will have to do some work and spend money to fix that. The bed was getting worse over time with not sticking so I invested in some 3DLAC Plus. It's not cheap but you only need a little bit and my troubles have ended. No more failed prints and cooling the glass plate releases the print. Worth every cent considering how much time and PLA it' saved me. I'll stick with the ender for now as the prints are excellent and the machine is reliable. The only thing I have noticed lately is the poor quality of some PLA's. From bad winding to brittle or inconsistent size, the situation this year has not been good. I now only buy from a trusted supplier and have to pay more for it.

[@S0Fr3shThisKid]

I buy my PLA from Matterhackers...free shipping always!

[@oonie99]

@@S0Fr3shThisKid I recently tried x3d.com.au based on the advice of teaching tech and have also found it to be great quality. You do have to order $150 (i think)to get free shipping, but at least it prints well and doesn't jam. I'll check out matterhackers for the smaller orders though, thanks. Now that I have quality PLA I find the ender to be super reliable and consistent for the prints.

[@S0Fr3shThisKid]

eSUN PLA+ is some of the BEST PLA I have ever printed with! I ordered it from Matterhackers...the FiberForce Pantone PLA is 🔥🔥🔥 but it's also expensive AF

[@lylebraybrook275]

I too had a bad bed so I brought a borosilicate glass bed from amazon and have had no issues since then

[@jon9947]

I pretty much think that as long as the pla is wound decent and dry then pla is pla, and the cheapest stuff you can get is the best way to go. I have been having really good luck with 3D Solutech white, its $16 a spool on Amazon. I was buying a different brand before the world turned upside down and the filament makers started to raise their prices. I will admit that I think the previous brand I was purchasing is slightly better pla, but it is not $10-$15 better, it is not even $5 better. So as long as 3D Solutech keeps sending me spools that are wound good, I am going to keep buying them. The only downside with the pla I can say is it seems every so slightly smaller of a spool, but I dont have a scale and that could just be my imagination. It is also frequently out of stock so I purchase 5 or so spools every time I am running low.

[@alexandermorris2335]

The creality glass beds are amazing. You just cant print to them the same way you would with a buildtak surface. For PLA, i was having adhesion problems at first, but fixed it by doing the following: Clean with ammonia based glass cleaner or IPA, in slicer set the first layer bed temp to 70 and first layer hotend temp to 210, then ramp down to 60/200. Turn fan off for first layer. Thats it. Not hard, just some small tweaks. No gluestick, no hairspray, no tape.

[@timd9430]

5:26 You should break this out as a seperate video solution as SO MANY have this problem thinking it's elephant foot and looking for help.

[@0xmricemanw426]

I didn't read all the comments, so this might be in here already. I had the same squashed bottom layers issue as in the video. Loosening the larger nut on the non-screw side fixed my issue. I also had the same issues with adhesion. I fixed that by using 4 clips instead of just the 2 that were supplied. Placing the clips 33% in from the edges on the front and back. This took the bow out of the bed and gave me a nice flat surface to level.

[@billkaroly]

An Amazon B1 reviewer mentioned his heated bed connector was charred after a few months of use.

[@BLASTHOCKEY444]

I just got the V2 and I had some similar issues with prints not sticking on the coating. I flipped the bed upside down so that it’s just straight up glass and everything has been sticking great now!

[@sumorabbit2160]

I flipped it just because I wanted smoother bases. Still pretty new to 3d printing and only used PLA so far but found starting the print bed off at 60C for the 1st layers then dropping down to 50C seems to work well for me.

[@StevenHess]

Keeping my Ender 3's. The depth of the knowledge base of the original Ender 3 community is second to none.

[@myNICKnameISgelo]

that was the one and the only drawback when I was choosing between Ender nd B1

[@timd9430]

Yup!

[@meganhelker1474]

As someone trying to figure out which printer to buy, this is huge. Deciding factor

[@Onerabidmonk1]

Bought an Ender 3 Pro and hate it. Bought a Prusa Mini and it is amazing. I don't want to continually fix my 3d printer, I want to print.

[@MrRevolverkiller]

@@Onerabidmonk1 i was gonna get the mini but decided to get the B1 instead. it boiled down to cost, as the B1 was half of a mini. now i REALLY want a mini but i can get 2 B1s for the cost of a mini. im ordering my second B1 next week. anyway so far the B1 has performed awesome. still want a mini tho

[@thisolman]

To get ABS to stick reliably, Coat the plate with Acetone in which a small amount of ABS has been dissolved. Renew between prints by redistributing the remaining ABS with clean acetone. Once in a while, new dissolved ABS can be added. This sticks so well that the bed must be cooled to easily remove the print. For PLA ( I use separate plates) simply clean the plate with 91% rubbing alcohol. I use these build surfaces exclusively on my Ender3 Pro. I killed the magnetic surface with too much heat and removing while hot. BTW, I have removed some of the textured coating accidentally with prints that have stuck too well and not waiting until the bed was totally cooled.

[@davesmith9325]

You are by far the most modest unbiased authoritative and trustworthy channel I have found. Enormous respect & Thankyou. I find the enormous number of unable parameters in cura, and the hassle to hack firmware etc all too much, I just use my printer "out of the box" but even if I dont do most of what you present in your videos its fascinating to hear about all this stuff, helps me understand. Thankyou

[@sketch088]

I just got my first 3d printer (ender 3 v2) not to be biased but I have had zero issues. Prints come out great. The bed adhesion is perfect. For a 3d printing KZbinr you didn't seem to care about figuring out what was wrong with your printer. Seemed very biased towards the b1.

[@gloopann]

Same here, i literally just leveled the bed and I clean it with alcohol every few days and the prints stick really well, if not too well... Sometimes I have to wait an hour until I can take the print off the bed

[@ja-no6fx]

seems like the b1 won in every aspect...

[@dieselaegean]

Until something fails and you can't find support and parts

[@josephgrn2818]

Biqu B1 now has power recovery resume. Tricky since it has to be fast as the hot end is....hot

[@ILoveFood0911]

I got an b1 as my second printer

[@jassimann5486]

Paid review . Realy ceap build quality. Bed warped in two or three days . Hot end assembly bobble by forces of type c cable . Fans are shit . Making laoud noise Bed is not sticky. After some time power supply fan creating vibrations.

[@josephgrn2818]

@@jassimann5486 is this your first printer?

[@OscarOliu]

Quote of the decade there, "The part exploded instead of coming off"

[@rodneybosco7376]

I view both of these machines more as competing “E3 platforms” than standalone appliances. My Ender 3 Pro has BTT board and display upgrades as well as refinements from other part manufacturers. Bed adhesion and leveling, as well as Cura configuration tuning, seem to have more impact on the 3D printing experience than any distinctions in the basic unit designs. As long as both makers can stay in business over the long haul, you should be fine with either choice.

[@TheMidnightSmith]

Good honest review. No punches pulled, highlight the improvements, excellent. This is what I like to see.

[@the_equalizor]

I love my v2, but I had a real issue with the extruder motor getting so hot it would cause the filament to melt after the gears. Checking the Vref on the extrude steeper pot, it was set at 1.7v which is way too high. Bringing it down to 1.38v fixed the issue for me. Other than that it’s a great set and forget printer for me.

[@klave8511]

The Equalizor : That’s a great observation, well done for digging in and finding that. It should be one of the checks we do when we get a new machine, feel if any steppers are getting hot or better yet measure the temperature when doing a standardized print.

[@the_equalizor]

Klave Absolutely. It’s quite an easy and safe thing to do as no mains involved in that area. I took the stepper figure from my ender 5 pro, and I’ve seen them since in a document from Creality. It’s still a great printer, very glad I bought it. Now if I can just get my head around supports on resin printing I’ll be just dandy :)

[@the_equalizor]

@@kevinlu6596 The steepers arn't UART controlled so they cant be programmed "remotely". You need to remove the bottom panel to get access to the mainboard pots. This is something that doesn't need doing unless it's causing an actual issue with filament melting in the extruder gears or the motors are getting too hot to touch.

[@sneaky_tiki]

@Teaching Tech Those ChengLiang PSUs are what Creality has always used on anything that wasn't a Pro version. Having worked with literally thousands of those 360W units, I can say that while they're no MeanWell, they are noticeably more consistent and reliable than others you can source from China. It's honestly what sets Creality apart. Not the PSUs specifically, but they've traditionally done a very good job of finding manufacturers to source their parts. They're cheap, but both the motors and PSUs are good cheap, not regret cheap.

[@theangrymarmot8336]

Interesting with the bed adhesion issues. I have an Ender 3 v1 that I upgrade to the Creality branded glass/textured bed and never had any adhesion issues. I just wipe it down with Polypropylene alcohol before every print and works perfectly. Never had a single issue out of thousands of prints by doing this.

[@TeachingTech]

I also wiped down with 99% IPA before each print. In the first video comparing these two I was told off in the comments for doing so. I've had beds like this in the past that worked great and others just seemed to lose their stick.

[@beng6044]

@@TeachingTech I've actually stopped using IPA and returned to just water because I was having bed adhesion issues with it. When I used water for the first time, a white soapy-like foam started coming from the bed. I can only assume that there is some coating on the newer beds that reacts with the IPA?

[@gene_Code]

true. my ender 3 v2 bed sticks well too.

[@SidneyCritic]

I bought $40 Tronxy filament and it always stuck hard, switched to generic $20 filament and had sticking problems with the same std plate. Bumped the plate up 10ºC and it's fine now.

[@klave8511]

Mine sticks well, I hate waiting for it to cool down though, especially if I have another print waiting, then I have to wait for it to warm up again. Thousands of prints! Imagine waiting for all the cool downs for thousands of prints, seems like years of wasted life.

[@EggerJonathan]

Any update 5 months later on the B1? I was looking at the 3v2 as my first printer but the B1 looks like a better deal

[@dean5244]

I purchased the BIQU B1 and it has not lived up to the hype. Heavy z-banding and the steppers don't allow for linear advance. I get better results from my old Ender 3 pro and Artillery X1. I feel as though I should have went with the Genius based on the good luck I had with my Artillery X1.

[@3dfrank548]

Only time I heard of Cheng Ling is on the initial batch of Ender 5 Pluses..and they're terrible. They had a initial batch where the power supply wasn't grounded properly(TH3D has a video about it), and they also are no where near strong enough to deal with the load that the Ender 5 Plus needs, so they would give out after a short period of time. For a smaller printer, it's probably okay..it's still not a Meanwell though.

[@TeachingTech]

Thanks for the info.

[@jasonjulian1]

Teaching Tech it's also the brand that is in the Geeetech A20m I recently tested. It's "ok".

[@3dfrank548]

Of course! I forgot to add that the reports and video of no power supply grounding were from Nov of last year..but I think it's kind of important to bring up that they have sent out units that were not grounded due to poor assembly before. The poor performance is probably more on Creality for cheaping out on the E5Plus power supply(bed is directly connected, and huge, so it takes *a lot* of power). For something along the size of a E3, I'm sure, assuming they have QC now, it's probably about the same quality as any random no-name Chinese power supply.

[@tamask001]

Here is a tour of their factory, definitely not Meanwell grade: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3uWkJdtl8ydqtE

[@elmariachi5133]

@@3dfrank548 But the missing power supply grounding is a failure of the printer, not of the supplie's vendor. Isn't it?

[@DaneSaysStuff]

Yup. I'm sold on the B1. And unlike so many others, I'm not going to cry my eyes out because it's pink.

[@secondc0ming]

It's actually not as bright as it looks on camera either.

[@EggChen6DemonBag]

I'm into Retrowave so the BIQU B1 is perfectly fine for me.

[@myNICKnameISgelo]

so why did you sold B1?

[@chrissavage5966]

Another informative video Michael, thank you. Apropos ABS, I recently tried some for the first time, Ender 3, Creality glass bed, no enclosure, Microswiss hot end. Printing at 245/100 I'm getting surprisingly good results. Initially had adhesion problems but found as long as I clean the bed before each print it's fine. Did get some corner lifting but not excessive. Also just tried the same objects with the same settings but using ApolloX after your review - nice. Almost perfect with only very slight corner lifts. All that to say, odd that you couldn't get the V2 to print ABS properly, particularly given your significant(!) experience and expertise.

[@looxonline]

@TeachingTech Mate the B1 does have resume on power outage. That's a pretty big omission.

[@thisiskeithb]

To add to this, PLR only works in "Touch Mode" since that's handled in the TFT firmware. It's not enabled on the Marlin side of the firmware.

[@TeachingTech]

I actually tested this, printing from the TFT interface and it wasn't presewnt. I assumed it was there, went back to the store page and could find no mention of it. What is your source for the stock printer having it?

[@thisiskeithb]

​@@TeachingTech ​ It's built into the TFT firmware (which is universal across all of the TFTs), but it has had a lot of code changes in recent months. Try updating the TFT's firmware as well. You'll use BIGTREE_TFT35_E3_V3_0 due to the LED in the knob and if you want to retain the stock Biqu "switching screen" & boot logos, you'll need to copy those from the BIQU-B1 firmware repo and overwrite the icons in the general BIGTREETECH-TouchScreenFirmware repo (semi-complicated, I know). Feel free to ping me on Twitter or the Marlin discord server under the same username if you want to chat more about firmware 🙂

[@looxonline]

@@TeachingTech Sure bro. Check out their manual here from their git. Page 2, resume printing function. Admittedly it is a little hidden. As Keith mentioned, it's worthwhile loading their new Marlin and TFT firmware. github.com/bigtreetech/BIQU-B1/blob/master/TF%20card%20data/English/USER%20MANUAL/BIQU-B1%20USER%20MANUAL%2020200724.pdf

[@TeachingTech]

Thanks for the link, unfortunately not working but I believe you. Weird they don't advertise it on the product page. Keith I've joined the discord server for any future questions, thanks very much.

[@flex-ranger2]

Chopper read style pose 3:16, dont know if deliberate but still hilarious 🤣

[@MauDib]

Great video as usual Michael!

[@Renrondog]

I have an early release Ender 3 V2. The first couple of prints would adhere well , but then nothing would stick. I wiped it down with IPA several times and the paper towel came out yellow. Some type of film applied at the factory to the glass. Once it was cleaned off , a little purple glue stick and everything sticks great, no issues. My Ender3 V2 likes +10* on the bed heater. That said it heats to 70*C in about 80 seconds. Filament heater to 210*C takes a little less time. I'm happy with mine but I was very precise when setting / building to make sure everything was // and square. (90*)

[@exploitz86]

I've been thinking about to buy the Ender3 v2 but after i've seen this video i had to change my mind. For the same price actually you'll get much more with the Biqu B1. I am a total noob in 3d printing, but i always wanted to jump into. Thank you for this awesome video.

[@toaltogaaumi]

how it´s been with the machine?

[@1987jaffa]

I was hoping to hear more about the difference in bed stability. Between that and the glass vs magnetic (which afaik degrades under high temperatures) I'm really torn which one to get as a step up from my da vinci nano

[@daniel-goodwin]

I had a 3 Pro for a bit before I swapped and got a 3V2. Can see the benefits of the BIQU but it also seems like I lot of your quality comparisons were based on what possibly was a bad V2 machine. I’ve had no issue with adhesion or any of the build quality. Using stock ender 3 profile (not even the pro version) out of the latest version of Cura. I wonder if you had one that was performing as well as mine seems to be if the quality comparison wouldn’t have been such a wide gap.

[@TeachingTech]

You'll notice I was transparent with the issues I had but at no point did I bag the Ender 3 V2 as a bad printer. The Z compression/alignment problem could happen to any printer depending on the V roller tension during shipping. The bed was the only real persistent issue. Worst case would be to flip it upside down and use the plan glass side with hairspray or glue stick ,etc.

[@daniel-goodwin]

Teaching Tech sorry if that came across overly critical, wasn’t meant to be. Just was trying to say a comparison where both of the machines seemed to be more error free would be ideal. I haven’t been 3d printing for long, but I have learned that even amongst the same machine there can be a lot of variance. Some problems some people have others don’t, conversely you might see things others don’t. As an entry level machine they both seem great and I’ve been churning out some pretty solid prints with my V2. I had actually watched your first take comparison video about a day before buying the V2 and I almost went with the BIQU but was a little concerned about the generic PSU. All in all still happy with my decision though 👍 thanks for the great content, really have enjoyed your channel and learned a lot from so many of your past videos.

[@munkpuppy]

Great video, as always! A tip for using the BTT touchscreen: to change between screen modes, instead of holding down the dial, you can also just hold your finger on the screen!

[@nicholasgenzman4213]

There so call “upgrade” PSU isn’t good either. It’s the same one that comes in stock CR10. Not a good and reputable brand. Just stick with the Meanwell

[@Dingmiester]

Hi all, So I am looking at getting my first Printer very soon. I have watched soooooo many Vids and read so much about them all, Until now I was set on a Ender 3, Then a Ender 3 Pro, Then a Ender 3 V2 and now the BIQU B1. I can see the pros and cons to them all, but it does seem that the B1 seems to be a great printer out the box. It looks like it hardly needs any upgrades if any. I am happy to learn and mod anything so getting my hands dirty is not an issue. The one thing everyone talks about is the PSU needs to be a MW one or should be, are they not interchangeable?, so could you not get a MW one and put it in a B1?. Sorry if thats a daft question. Is the B1 new on the market as there is not to much about them, like printed upgrades and just general info about them that's my only concern about the B1. Yes Im confused now lol, HELP ..... cheers peeps... keep safe ....

[@Dingmiester]

@Parminder Mann I went with the Biqu B1, tbh although I new nothing about printers, I have found Bique easy to use, set up, get to grips with and get some great prints so far, so I am very happy with my choice. I can't comment on the Ender as I have not got one and I am sure that is just as good .

[@mohammedalhelal2956]

@@Dingmiester I am in your same situation from 2 months ago... I am buying it for my brother. Do you regret your decision ... are there any hindsight thoughts?

[@Dingmiester]

@@mohammedalhelal2956 No regrets with mine, but I was lucky with my one it seems. Its a common problem with the biqu to have an uneven bed, the firmware needs to be updated ( its easy to do) eveything needs to be checked over but im sure that is normal with all printers. I had to get a glass bed to improve adhesion and get a level bed. One thing I know now is this hobby needs A lot of patients and time to get decent prints. If you have face book join the Biqu group to get more of an Insight into this printer. But remember most people that comment on these sites have problems and want to get info on how to sort it out. Hope this helps and don't be put off they are great fun. If your brother has time and patience he will love this printer. Big plus on the Biqu B1 is the Touch screen .

[@CMDRBlueeagle66]

The buildplate on the B1 releases when cool. I find that the base on the B1 acts like a guitar and amplifies noise on fast moves. But not too bad.

[@ncessnapilot]

It does a perfect job of that. When it cools down, it releases so well that I could blow on it and it would move.

[@CMDRBlueeagle66]

@Teaching Tech Apparently the B1 does have power loss recovery. A chap on the FB B1 user group confirmed it.

[@Krytern]

On the Ender 3 v2 the print releases off the buildplate when it cools as well. Not sure why this channel has had trouble with bed adhesion though it has been sticking on mine fine.

[@andywakeman3395]

@@Krytern I bought Creality's glass bed and haven't had a successful print yet, first later failing to bind every time.

[@gcantu05]

I have the ender3 v2 and have been very pleased so far. No prints have failed and it's easy to remove the print when it cools. Honestly the only reason I bought the ender instead of the b1 was because I could pick it up in store and the wait for the b1 was a month from bang good.

[@TheJagwtf]

@Teaching Tech I know you are more qualified than I am, as I have learned a lot from your videos. But i would suggest returning to the Ender 3v2 and looking at it again. I purchased an Ender 3v2 when it came out, and I have none of the issues you have. No bed issues, everything sticks lick a charm, no extrusion issues, no blobbing issues. Printing ABS was plug and play - both small and large parts, as well as "vase mode" with 3 layers. I love your video, but it does not do merit to the Ender 3v2, This was my first ever normal 3d printer (before i used a Makerbot Replicator Mini), and it was assemble, have issues with the Z Axis, fix it, and zero errors since.

[@TeachingTech]

We can both only judge what we have in front of us, it's not fair to speculate. This is why I always suggest looking at a range of reviews to get a broader picture.

[@myNICKnameISgelo]

The problem that I have on B1, ( that dont mentioned by anyone who reviewed the biqu b1) is the bed adhesion. I thought it was bad cooling fan duct, but I did that same cooling test and got same result. The fans are blowing partially on the bed.

[@zacharywilliams9122]

Something you may want to try is rubbing the bed with 90% IPA, you'd be shocked how much that can affect adhesion on a lot of beds

[@agentcrm]

I've noticed with our Ender 5 Plus. Disable Eco mode, that should help stop premature seperation, if you're having that issue.

[@ramtek2702]

I'm really disappointed that you're advocating the use of grease on exposed moving surfaces. I thought you'd know better. Grease & or oil are counter productive because they attract dirt & dust defeating the purpose of the lube. A much better option for general use is silicone spray which dries and will not attract dirt. In the case of the Z axis lead screw the best answer is to replace the brass traveling nut with a Delrin antibacklash nut. Delrin will never need lube.

[@nobody2021]

What do you think of graphite? Or is not not good to lubricate electronics with graphite due to its conductivity

[@03jalapeno]

I had the same issues with the ender 3 v2 bed. I replaced it with the Bigtree tech heater bed and powder-coated pei bed and it works much better.

[@diycnc3442]

That B1 looks the goods. The main board, touch screen and upgradeability options are a big selling point out of the box. 👍

[@markferrick10]

Great review. I like the opensource code of the BTT display ( I could not find the creality display code source code), the dual function of the BTT display. To me the SKR boards are top notch. However, I am not a fan of the mini adapter interface cards, another point of failure. I am surprised that you had problems with the creality glass bed. I have one on my original E3 (x model) and it works great. If I were in the market today, I think the B1 would get my business. Again, great review.

[@Pugwash.]

I'm surprised you had adhesion issues on the v2 bed. I'm finding it very good. I only get problems from finger grease that a wipe with isopropanol solves. I haven't used any additional sprays or glues. A BLTouch has also made my first layer perfect, which helps a lot. I did drop my bed temp to 45c but in a colder room I put it back to 60c. The biqu would appeal to me more in black.

[@SidneyCritic]

The jamming at the bottom seams like the columns aren't parallel. Did you tighten the bottom column bolts when the Y gantry was at the top, ie, the bottom columns were free to spread out. It's like car suspensions, ie, you put the car on the ground and load the suspension before you tighten the rubber mounts or you can tear out the centres.

[@judhi]

Thanks for the great video. Although I own an Ender 3 v2, I clearly see here that B1 is the better printer as it produces more consistent result. My Ender 3 v2 gives me all the same issues shown in this video and the most annoying one is non sticky bed. If B1 doesn't come in that silly pink trim color I might have chosen that 😁

[@matejmedved5823]

you can order black one

[@hathzorz]

Why does legacy mode for the TMC2208s make them incompatible with linear advance? I've seen some conflicting info on whether it might work. A forum post on RepRap says on Marlin 2.0.x you can set MINUMUM_STEPPER_PULSE to above 1, or use spreadcycle instead of stealthchop since stealthchop is unreliable with lin adv. Newer Marlin supposedly fixes the too-short stepper pulses problem that might've happened in the past. I personally don't know one way or the other so I'd love to hear your thoughts.

[@TeachingTech]

I tested it once (can't remember which printer sorry) and found my result matched what I had read. The extruder stepper stopped turning early in the print, no errors or warnings. The TMC stepper library is supplied by the community, it might be some sort of compatibility issue with that.

[@OinTaylor]

Someone already mentioned but the upgrade power supply they sent from Cheng Liang, that's the same brand as the Ender3 I just opened from Creality official shop for $155. Unknown if it will be a better supply from this manufacturer.

[@MrWrieden]

please can you do a video on how to change the loud fans on ender3v2

[@nsvaluto48328]

Actually I saw on my retailer website for b1 it does have print resume they must be selling a newer version

[@wekkimeif7720]

Most likely bed leveling issue that prints have hard time to stick on Ender. Could be just that the print bed is not 100% flat.

[@MrGarkin]

And nothing said about NOT WORKING LINEAR ADVANCE on ender 3 v2, due to 2208.

[@Apophis-en9pi]

@Teaching Tech Love your videos! Have you considered putting timestamps in the description for easy access? I think it would help a lot of us out in navigating your videos. Keep up the great work!

[@johnduplantier5206]

I have had similar issues with the build surface on the ender 3 v2. I got great adhesion on my first two days of prints with pla, then nothing adhered, I re-leveled the bed over and over again to no avail. I then tried to fit my BL-Touch I had bought separately thinking that I was goofing and the auto bed level would help with adhesion, sadly that lit my main board on fire somehow, and yes I did verify my pin out on the BL Touch. Hopefully I can get a main board replacement from the seller of my printer, but if not I'll probably just put a BigTreeTech board in it ironically, which is making me regret not buying the Biqu B1

[@Krytern]

Have you tried cleaning the bed with isopropyl alcohol to make sure no finger/hand grease is on it? As long as I do that on my v2 every couple days it sticks fine.

[@johnduplantier5206]

@@Krytern I did that several times during the bed re leveling process, just for my sanity. I think i may have the same issue he did with my crossbar with the guide rollers needing to be loosened more. Obviously I'm done modding it until I get a new mainboard though. Thank you for the tip though, I wish that was all I needed to do.

[@Krytern]

@@johnduplantier5206 I'm not sure if it has anything to do with it but before I put together the top of the printer I flipped it upside down and the screws on the bottom holding bits together were quite loose, maybe those need tightening? I doubt that'll be the issue but worth making sure they're tight.

[@johnduplantier5206]

@@Krytern I think I actually tightened those during my initial assembly, but I will double check them again once I get my mainboard replacement. Thank you for the suggestion!

[@Interknetz]

@@johnduplantier5206 I'd potentially seek a build guide and just completely rebuild it. The guide that came with the ender v2 sucks. I'd watch some youtube channel that has "Tomb" in the name, forgot what it was called. I followed Just Vlad's guide when I first built it and it seemed like something wasn't right. Rebuilt with "Tomb" guy's guide, and everything seems proper.

[@699hazard]

I've been looking at purchasing a second printer and I think you have convinced me to get the biqu.

[@Sebazzz1991]

BIQU is going to eat Creality for lunch - Creality did a bad one with the CR-6 Kickstarter and the competition is increasing.

[@patricknein9062]

@@BlockiBiz I've got two creality enders now. Both work great.

[@dean5244]

I purchased the BIQU B1 and wished I'd purchased something else. Didn't live up to the hype for me. Z-banding issues, can't use linear advance due to the stepper drivers, and lack of community support.

[@ComdrStew]

All I ever do on my Ender 3 V2 is clean the glass plate like any other glass. I use Dawn dish soap and wash it in the sink. After that everything sticks to it with no problems. I clean it every few prints.

[@dean5244]

Please do a video with the necessary upgrades so that the Biqu B1 can utilize linear advance. The stepper drivers are TMC2225 and are not compatible as I understand.

[@Maltduck100]

I got a ender3 pro with a skr minie v2 and a ezr extruder and it works grate all i need is a bigger build plate as the 235/235 is just a shade too small

[@CrimFerret]

I'm seriously looking at one of these for a first printer. Biqu offers a heat break that converts the hot end to all metal as well as a dual gear extruder. I figure upgrading to Capricorn Tubing and maybe adding a BL Touch (or clone) would have me set for a long time to come.

[@draconisdei]

I'm late to this party, but seem to be having a lot of trouble with my B1 only 2 days after having it either I got a messed-up model or its the filament but I think ima have to return it and get an Ender 3 but thanks for the video it helped a lot in terms of which to get.

[@michaelhinojosa9665]

Great stuff as always Michael. I am not sure if it was stated but does the BIQU support linear advance? It should right? Would love an Ender 5 BIQU just for the board upgrades!

[@Patrick_Cooper]

I had the exact problem with the engine model, on my Creality Ender 3 Pro. Trying a reprint now.

[@childereena]

Hi! I'm new to 3D printing and I am using a Biqu B1 printer. Your video was very helpful. Thank you. May I know what tools you use to remove excess PLA from the printed model?

[@MaxMatrixMan]

Very informative video! Helpful in purchase decision.

[@gasser5001]

Great review. Liked and sub'd. Got a V2 coming tomorrow already. They seem pretty close in quality and everything. I saw a video of someone upgrading the V2 with a metal extruder and some little things to make it quieter. He was only getting around 40-45dB from it. Overall, they both seem like good options.

[@enaliospearfishing]

how is the printer after 6 monts?

[@reasonablebeing5392]

To test bed adhesion, I'd like to see is a warping test where you print 20 layers or so of a long narrow print - those are the toughest prints to keep from warping. Try them with and without a 10 or 20 concentric ring skirt.

[@AnishKumar-zq9vx]

Can I use the upgraded board on the ender3 V2 on my ender 3?

[@nic2154572]

Will the ender extender work on the B1?

[@jakoj2098]

I thought everything upgradable for the B1 would be same availability for V2 as the B1 is pretty much a Ender anyway?

[@mirceahuja9274]

I dont understand how people can say the v2 is fairly silent. mine sounded like a a jet engine is starting when I got it. the power source fan is 75 % obstructed and the coolers on the print head started buzzing after a week of printing. changed all the fas to silent ones ... now I don't know if it's on or not :D

[@carbide1968]

I been trying to find silent fans for my ender for a long time. The noctura are all the wrong voltage so what did you find and can you link it. They are to loud.

[@TeachingTech]

I have the sound without background music there plus a db meter so hopefully that's enough information for someone to make up their mind. Compared to a standard Ender 3 with loud stepper motor noise both of these are quiet.

[@mirceahuja9274]

@@TeachingTech I meant in no way the information you provided is wrong or misleading :D. If it sounded like that then I apologize. I had no other 3d printers so my opinion might be indeed biased. Maybe I got a noisy one or maybe this is the usual "quiet printer" level and I just have very high expectations in terms of silence. But if other printers are louder than what mine was at the beginning I do not envy the people that have them.

[@mirceahuja9274]

@@carbide1968 I used three 50mm for cooling the heater and the part with custom shroud, one 40m for the mainboard and one 60mm in the power source. All are Silentium PC Zephyr. I think 17-19 db depending on the size. they are all 12v but since I have 2 on the part cooling I set them in series and for the heater block I added a strip of 3 leds also in series. It is not the most professional approach but it works for now. The part cooling is mediocre but taking into consideration the silence I would not change it. If I will need better cooling I will try to use a blower type fan from a laptop.They seem more silent than other standard blower type fans(might need to make sone voltage regulating but that is not a problem for me). Also I have cut the metal guards around the power source fan so that they are as large as the fan.

[@vladimirjar3800]

you should review the voxlab aqula next and compar it to the ender 3 v2.

[@leonarperro]

Excellent video. I'm currently deciding between this two printers to buy as my first 3d printer. I'm slightly interested in eventually modding it to be used as a PCB carver. Would that be possible with either of these? Thanks for your helpful content.

[@janred94]

Great video. Made me keep my original Ender 3 with SKR board. I want a faster responding navigation and screen tho, it is very slow.

[@CasteraPrn]

I just ordered Ender3 V2 and this well made review made me nervous. Thanks anyway.

[@hug00l]

tssssss

[@MattMontanez]

How are you liking your V2? I ended up returning mine that I ordered. Unfortunately it had a bad motherboard and when I did get it running I got one successful print out of about 50. A lot of issues with the one I received.

[@spongecounter]

I have been really happy with my Ender 3V2, so don’t worry about it too much. I have been getting loads of great prints out of it. In fact it has paid for itself 3 times at least, compared to the parts I used to have machined. I have also been having a lot of fun modifying the V2, which has really helped me to learn. Run Michael’s (TeachingTech)tuning website procedures on your machine to tune it. Switch from the Creality firmware to the Marlin Ender 3V2 firmware custom compile with linear advance enabled (marlin.crc.id.au). And use the fast live leveling technique to tram your bed, it works really well to get the first layer to adhere every time. You will need to relevel for each new bed temperature (I.e. PLA vs PETG). Over time I noticed the centre of the bed sagged. I tried flipping the glass over but it still sagged. I shimmed the centre under the glass with aluminum foil tape and now the bed is flat. Good luck I hope you enjoy your machine.

[@MrRevolverkiller]

ive bought the Biqu B1 and have had it for about a week now. Im printing in PETG for the first time and am preparing to print the TPU bracelet. I have been using the stock Cura profiles and was wondering if that was sufficient and if not, what were the temps you adjusted to get it to print right?

[@ronaldjobstl9912]

what hotend is the B1 using? and what nozzle? can't find any infos about this. thank you

[@jeffcolhoun]

I had that exact same cheng liang power supply come with an ender 3 v1.

[@davechuasoup]

Have you seen the Lotmaxx SC-10? It's the same price as the E3 v2 for me but seemed to have better specs all-around except for the lack of a textured glass build plate. Almost grabbed it instead of the E3 v2, what killed it for me was the fact that it was using blatantly fake reviews on every shopping platform. Haven't seen any reputable youtubers cover it yet.

[@juan-he6pm]

Hello, which one do you recommend more for a beginner, thank you.

[@copperninja5248]

hey can you help me i got the bibq1 and when i try and home it does not move and said printed halted kill called please help

[@dean5244]

Can you post the profile or basic settings that you used for PETG?

[@timd9430]

15:01 your Ender 3 V2 test printer doesn't have the up to date printehead metal backplate with the 2 extra mounting holes at left side for BLTouch mounting. There is also a different black plastic hotend/fan shroud cover that has elongated vent holes (non circular like this one). It may allow more cooling airflow and a little quiter fan noise possibly. Creality or your vendor should be able to provide you these updated parts, SainSmart did. : )

[@ericc8895]

i love your content! Question, if you wanted to keep a budget on a new 3d printer to no more than $400, would you go with the Ender 3 V2 and buy all the mods for it? or would you go a different route with a different 3d printer?

[@MONTY-YTNOM]

I hope BIQU work on the firmware better than they did/do with the Thunder .

[@carbide1968]

I am by no way someone who could suggest anything to a expert like yourself but by chance were you using isp to clean the glass? I found if you use at least 91% parts stick perfect every time. I found lower percents leave a film and parts always break free. This is just what i experienced so far. Great video as always sir.

[@TeachingTech]

I did use IPA, but it was 99%.

[@unknownsidewinder9945]

@Teaching Tech I still can't decide, what printer would you recommend more?

[@nathankennedy2436]

I was having problems with the print not sticking too the bed after a heap of good prints after washing the glass bed in hot soapy water the problem went away so now i just wash the glass bed every few prints

[@samueldennis8343]

My BIQU B1 keeps having a 'kill called' error with petg, not sure if it's temp related 🤔

[@3D-Zach]

Sounds like thermal runaway, search up PID autotune, and tune for PETG temps

[@samueldennis8343]

@@3D-Zach already done that mate! We work with BIQU and BTT at my job and they've been really good so far!

[@certified-forklifter]

@@samueldennis8343 wow, thats interesting. might i ask what you work?

[@samueldennis8343]

@@certified-forklifter sure, I work for technologyoutlet.co.uk I was a technical engineer but have now progressed into a managerial role within the company! Check us out 😁

[@Frank-bc8gg]

Great vid! Of course it comes out after I already bought an ender 3 pro and have been tearing out my hair for a week.

[@timd9430]

3d printing is a learning experience no matter which printer you purchase even if you buy a Prusa mini. The Ender 3 PRO is a great printer. Don't worry, you'll stop pulling your hair out soon enough. ; )

[@Onerabidmonk1]

I bought an Ender 3 Pro and Prusa Mini+ in the same week. The only thing I've had to do to my Mini is clear the nozzle which was the filament needing a hotter nozzle temp. My Ender 3 Pro has made 3 finished prints total in 3 months. I hate it, I spend so much time trying to fix and tweak it. The only good thing about my Ender is it has taught me the mechanical parts of a 3d printer and I'm learning how to work on them. Meanwhile my Mini just cranks prints out.

[@jamesmoe]

You mentioned in your BIQU B1 video(s) that you were going to revisit the BLTouch and possibly other enhancements. Do you have that video in the pipeline? I have the BIQU B1 based on your review and think it wins out over the Ender 3 V2 handily. Adding the BLTouch does not; however, appear seamless just because they provide a bracket. Having a bit of an issue .. such as what do I do with the Z endstop after adding the BLTouch. In any case I look forward to future videos about that BIQU B1. I very much enjoy your channel and believe you provide the most comprehensive and practical information.

[@jamesmoe]

So I got the BLTouch and it is really giving me fits. Would love to see beginning to end setup after installation.

[@EggChen6DemonBag]

I think I'll be going with the BIQU B1 in a month or 2. will be my 2nd 3D Printer. I have the Ender 3 Pro right now.

[@danielcrandell7533]

Be careful. Right now support for this printer is not good even buying direct from them. It’s a great printer but trying to get support is frustrating

[@tvideo1189]

Surprised you gave the Ender a bye on the bed adhesion problems.

[@T4nm4y]

Why is it not compatible with linear advance? 🤔

[@avejst]

Great video Thanks for sharing 👍☺️

[@maunladbalesandusedclothin3227]

i know it's an old video but can you help me to flash a new firmware for the biqu b1