How To Shut Off Natural Gas Valves

[@10whatsmyname01]

I have an older style valve and could not for the life of me figure out why it was so hard to turn. Thank you so much!

[@enduringcharm]

Glad I could help!

[@cdgregOG]

Thank you for the clarity on open v. closed and loosening the top nut. That's what I couldn't figure out.

[@mildbill5550]

Excellent. I was dreading installing our new stove because I had failed in the past trying to shut off the stove's gas. Your tutorial made this task easy and I didn't break off the valve's ears!

[@effie_ladure]

Thank you! Thank you! Was so scared to mess with the valve to my water heater when the pilot light wouldn’t work… you brought me confidence and hot water 🙏🏽

[@enduringcharm]

Glad it helped!

[@askalice7222]

Wanted to thank you as well, I needed to shut off the gas to the dryer to clean the duct and was unsure of how to do it. I appreciate your help with this how-to video! 🙂🙂🙂

[@jajsound]

RIGHT ON ! Thank You.....house was built in 1970's the shut off valve ears were broken beyond the point of recognizing it as a shut off valve.....Actually my wife found your video ! at 2:54 in your video I saw the Light !!!!

[@scottbrownjr7977]

Thanks for this video! The numerous real world examples definitely helped to paint the picture. Was switching out an appliance and was taking a break for the night and was slightly concerned the gas wasn’t off. I feel a lot better now

[@catnap9974]

This was really informative. I'm glad you featured an older home. So many videos are done in a studio with brand new items. Nothing in my house is new. Two things I learned from switching gas dryers, unhooking the old one and hooking up the new one (which I couldn't have done without knowing about that nut!): I put some dish soap and water in an empty spray bottle to spritz on the connections to check for leaks. That was a mistake; it created a bit of foam as I sprayed. I ended up pouring a bit of the solution on it to avoid creating my own bubbles. Second, I obviously couldn't see the bottom of the connection at the back of the dryer, so I put a small mirror beneath it. Luckily, I noticed bubbles on the bottom of the fitting that didn't show up on the top.

[@chrixal00]

Great video for people like me that don’t know anything about valves, thank you

[@lynnmaglio6307]

Thank you so much for posting these clear directions. The gas is OFF!!!

[@virginia9509]

Thank you so much for your video. You explained things so well and now I feel better prepared while I wait for the repairman. I hope he can fix the dryer. Thanks.

[@richardlaycock7747]

Excellent survey of likely problems with a long static brass valve. I didn't notice the locked nuts holding the lever tight. That tip saved me a lot of trouble. Even loosening the lock nut the brass L on the valve bent before moving. Regrip lower, turn to Closed and all is well. Checked to see you're still churning out tips. Subscribed. Muchas gracias amigo.

[@sherm624]

Can't thank you enough for this video. I am currently replacing a dryer and trying to get it out of the laundry room. The valve I have is identical to the one in your video and I was trying to close the valve but it wouldn't budge. Was smart enough not to use too much force but now I know to loosen the nut on the other side!!!

[@EthanSpence]

me too.

[@johncorliss2759]

@@EthanSpence Me Too

[@bernlitzner2739]

Add me to the list. Removing a late 70's dryer (the washer was from 1983). I will attempt on Monday after I spray the nut down with Liquid Wrench. Plus on Monday I can get a hold of someone easier if I mess up!

[@sergeyshchelkunov5762]

Thank you for that info about the nuts/nuts on the back side of old style's valves. I tried to undo mine, and suspected that the nuts may play a role. So, I used no force, found your video, confirmed my suspicions... Then undid the nuts - as you say one should - and turned the valve without much problems.

[@enduringcharm]

Glad it helped!

[@mishroeder9490]

Thanks for demonstrating how to shut off/turn on a gas valve. Hope you have an excellent new year.

[@enduringcharm]

Thanks, you too!

[@FlyingToad321]

Thank you for this excellent video. My gas valve was very tight (and didn't have a handle), your tip on loosening the nut on the other side made all the difference. Thanks so much for helping us all out!

[@moroleongto100]

Thank you so much! Came home to my home smelling like natural gas checked the dryer line and found a leak, tightened the screw at the valve and got it fixed

[@leaguefixesyourmatches8259]

Great video. This should part of every man's education.

[@bbeaum1]

constant flow of helpful information. little or no wasted time. thanks!

[@pcolt4]

Thanks for this video. Just the information I was looking for. Moved in recently to a house with gas lines for the range and the dryer.

[@pingueta01]

Thank you very much, your video was very helpful..I didn't know that the nut opposite the valve was supposed to be loosened..thanks again, keep up the work..

[@louisgarcia1766]

Thanks, I was questioning whether something was a valve or not. It was missing the ears. Now I know what to call what's missing.

[@loganbrauser3821]

Thank you! I had to loosen the nut and then beast mode it with a wrench to get it to turn. But it eventually did. I loosened the nut a little too far because I smelled gas for a moment but pushed the valve back in flush and tightened the nut. Thank you again

[@iceman213]

one of the best explanations I'm found so far . 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 thank you .

[@JakeMueller12]

Lots of good examples. Good information. Right to the point. Thanks man!

[@bruddafudda1193]

Thank you, sir. That was exactly what I needed to know today.

[@mapiador]

Same here, Thank You!!!

[@BillDubeVariety]

Wow you just saved me $400. I wish I saw this two days ago as I did weaken the handle a little by trying to turn it the wrong way. Was looking for the mysterious Super Stickers I've heard of from KZbin as I wanted to tip your for this GREAT VIDEO. Thanks.

[@enduringcharm]

Glad it helped--and I don't know how those stickers work either!

[@BillDubeVariety]

@@enduringcharm The made a claim that we now could give them, oh well thanks again. Wish the plumber that I called to "Replace" the valve had told me, good thing overpriced quote had me searching more. Yours is the first video that covers the traditional style valves.

[@martinherrera9606]

Great Information. I'm trying to disconnect my Stove for replacement. It's been in place for almost 30 years! Therefore, it's hard to see where the shut off valve is and psotion, it has so much dirt and grease accumulated, if there is one. I was so close to make a mess, but now I know what to do. Thanks! Thanks! Thanks!

[@fabiolean]

Hey thanks for this post! I knew how to work the valves inside my house, but I wasn't sure what the city gas meter looked like. Now i can check to see if they ever really turned the gas on in my new house.

[@MrKelly-ll1lx]

Thanks for the video! Just helped me in a major way! Didn't know about the nut on the side! God bless!

[@omar10wahab]

Was wondering about this for a while. My valves are the older style but a bit different and I saw the nut but I wasn't sure if that was to hold the valve in place or what. Usually the water shut offs get stuck because of water seepage and rusting but wasn't sure about the gas. Really appreciate you showing the available versions

[@philliptaylor5981]

Thank you!!! We have these style valves in our old home!

[@mikerileyii]

Great video! Thanks for the info, I was unsure about loosening the nut on the back of the valve. Just needed someone to verify!

[@Ermac185]

Thanks information still helpful till this day! 💪🏾

[@dalepatrick1158]

Thanks for all the examples.

[@tjldsl]

Saved my life...literally!

[@jimmysisavangone118]

Thank you so much not the same problem exactly but got my furnace shut off finally it was heating up my house even though it was off

[@joeymartinez1804]

Wow, thanks exactly the explanation I needed to make sure I was doing it correctly.

[@joseakapolomendez6066]

Great job and thank you for this information it was very important

[@mrspiderman125]

This is so incredibly helpful

[@Jessica-jt9dn]

Thank you so much for that informative video. I really appreciate it.

[@onlyme8870]

Someone messed up in my place. I always has a very low gas smell for years and it took a professional to find it. The valve leaked. All he did was tighten it. Still makes me nervous. But thabkd for the tutorial. I have to self diagnose a furnace pilot that wont light now. And was running fine until the gas line to the house was replaced by the city. Now it wont light. Already replaced the thermocouple and pilot line to the valve assembly. So either the valve just started to stick closed or there a gas issue. Although the gas stove works fine.

[@stevewalsh5479]

On the old style valves with the nut opposite the handle, should the handle be able to spin 360 degrees? I thought they only swung 90 degrees from open to closed.

[@enduringcharm]

Some valves may have a 90 degree stop but others will go full circle. Either way, if the handle is parallel to the pipe it's on.

[@nisaac86]

Thanks a lot. I was able to turn off the gas and disconnect the stove.

[@100vg]

Thanks! I have a shutoff valve like your indoor gas inlet valve on my AC/Furnace gas inlet pipe. It's about a 1½" pipe coming down from the attic with a 90°, then the shutoff valve tightly fitted between the wall and AC/Furnace unit in a 2½" width space, then a 90° reducer (to ¾"?) down and a 90° over and in to a regular metal flex hose to the Pilot Light Assembly, then from there out to the burners. There is not another shutoff installed inside the furnace, but I cannot get to the nut(s) on the back of the shutoff valve because the space is so narrow. I felt behind and they seem to be there, but there is no room to turn wrenches or a ratchet if I could get to the nut(s). I need to get the guts out of the furnace to clean the pilot light pinhole thing and adjust flame angle and clean the burners in hopes of stopping winds from blowing out the pilot flame and maybe making it more efficient. I can't see much of the burner flames to know how much is blue and how much is yellow, but they seem pretty blue. The pilot flame is fairly weak and barely touching the thermocouple on one side and any wind blowout guard, if supplied, will have to be adjusted. I would rather not turn the gas off at the meter. At least I know the Off direction should be clockwise now, or maybe 360°, and parallel is ON with perpendicular being Off. I've tried to turn this valve both ways, but I think the nut(s) have it locked, and this 1960/61 installation may have never had this valve turned off. The installers must have installed the shutoff valve turned On with the house gas Off because I can't see how to get to the nut(s), but they may know tricks that I don't. I was going to ask for you thoughts, but after reading your replies to comments, I'll turn off house gas outside at inlet gas valve, let the stove burn off gas until the flame goes out, turn that off, pull the flex hose to the pilot light assembly and install a shutoff at the reduced 90° outlet pipe. The only thing to relight will be the water heater. My stove and oven have igniters. You have already helped me, but if you have any suggestions or advice, it/they would be welcome. Like is one ¾" shutoff brand better than others? I have local Lowe's, Home Depot, Coburn's, The Plumbing Warehouse and other stores to choose from. Thank you!

[@enduringcharm]

I'm not sure I have a complete mental picture of your situation, but I get the idea. It's not unusual that things are built around original installations that prevent access to pipes and shut-offs. I think you are on the right track in making certain you can shut off the main and burn off the gas before you get too deep into this. As for the sticky valve, often the pipe joint compound they use on assembly becomes hardened over time. You may be able to wrap the valve in a small cotton rag and soak the rag with WD-40 or something similar. The petroleum can soften up the old compound over a few hours making it easier to loosen. Ideally, though, if access is a problem and the valve is ancient anyway, you can take this opportunity to replumb and replace the valve and make it safe for the future.

[@100vg]

@@enduringcharm Thanks for the reply, but getting to the 1½" pipe shutoff valve is the problem. It is somewhat pinched between the AC/Furnace left side and a closet wall. The space is only 2½ inches wide and the pipe and shutoff valve are inset for the housing left-side access hole, so I cannot get to the nuts on the back. I have restricted access to shutoff valve's on/off control, but I cannot get it to turn and I cannot get access to loosen the nuts. And if I could, there would be no room to turn the wrenches. I do not see any sealant or anything on it, but they are on the back, which I cannot see or access. So my thought is to install another, a second smaller shutoff valve after that one, inside the furnace housing where the pilot light assembly's gas inlet flex hose connects to the final ¾" 90° nipple, well after the 1½" attic down pipe and its larger, regular shutoff valve. It would be a ¾" shutoff valve, if they make them for this application. The shorter, the better. With a shutoff valve, I could then disassemble the furnace to do the maintenance I need to do. I wish I could show you a picture, but maybe this wording will help you envision the configuration. Is there a particular brand and model of ¾" shutoff valve you'd recommend, if that's the right size? And any other advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks again

[@enduringcharm]

This is tough to follow without pictures, but can you not cut a hole in the closet wall? They make 14 and 20 inch square plastic access panels which snap over the hole you cut. A shut off valve inside the furnace does not meet the plumbing code, nor is it useful. You need a shut-off on the outside in case there is an issue. I would encourage you to think about cutting an access hole for that existing valve (which might just be drywall depending on location) or else removing that valve entirely and replumbing for placement of a valve elsewhere. Flexible lines can be used in most cases to make it easier. You could also call a plumber and for a few hundred bucks, probably, have him build a new accessible connection.

[@100vg]

@@enduringcharm I got your message about not adding a second smaller shutoff valve inside, so I worked with what is there. When I bought this house, the shutoff valve closet wall was partially knocked out on the AC/Furnace side to add a drain hose from the AC water pan to the kitchen sink drain down pipe to drain its water to the sink pipe. It passed purchase inspection and I was told it's a good way to do it. I have to check it regularly for clogs and make sure it stays clear. I cut a bit more out of that drywall to be able to see and work with the back of the shutoff valve and have the inner wall space to turn channel locks. It has a single 1⅛" nut attached to the back, and turning that out loosened the shutoff valve itself. I got it to turn perpendicular, closed, and tightened it back a bit. I checked for leaking gas and it's good. I bought a water meter valve key to turn the shutoff valve because it was so tight, but when that didn't work, I cut the drywall more for the room to work. I marked which of the two pilot light wires go where and moved them out of the way, pulled the flex hose at both ends, disconnected the thermocouple and disconnected pilot light feed tube. Then I removed all the pilot light assembly bracket screws, pulled the pilot light assembly and the burner blower tubes came with it. The only thing left was the bracket that holds the thermocouple and the pilot light flame piece. With all that done now, I'll get to work on all the cleaning and maintenance I can do. The pilot tube for the flame is crushed a little, so if I can't round it back enough, I'll buy a new one. I don't think it's pinched enough to cause the pilot flame to be weak. I think the orifice is clogged, but if it doesn't have one, then fixing the tube (or replacing it) and aligning the flame to the thermocouple should do it. The burners have a good bit of rust, but not horrible, so I'll see if they can be cleaned and salvaged or need to be replaced. Thank you so much for the fast replies and all the help! My reply is late because I was out shopping for a way to loosen the nut and then working on it to get this far. If I run into an issue I can't figure out or find help on KZbin for, I might be back, if you're willing. Thanks again. You've been great!

[@100vg]

@@enduringcharm Sorry for the late reply. I started this 2 days ago. It looks like cleaning the pilot light tube orifice did the trick. I also aligned the flame to the thermocouple. The flame is strong and all blue, surrounding the thermocouple and passing it now, and the flame splitter throws the flame well into both burner channels, even past the thermocouple. I had the pilot flame screw adjusted to max because it was so weak. It blew 1½ inches past the thermocouple, so I adjusted it down to ¼ past to save a little on the gas bill. I've been turning the pilot light off during weather that does not need heat, but I'm going to leave it on for a while to see if winds still blow the pilot light out. The 4 inch (I think) heat vent pipe to the roof has a cap on it, but the space between top cap and lower rim (same diameter and shape) is nearly wide open. I wrapped 2 layers thick of vinyl screen-door screen of the tightest mesh I could find between the cap and lower rim, but that didn't work, so I bought a roll of stainless steel 200 mesh to rewrap it with. Winds can still blow or a resulting vacuum through/suck that, so I'll make the mesh cover in more wraps than the vinyl was. If needed, I'll start with 4 layers and go from there, but with the flame being so strong now, I may not need it. The heat will still get out, but it might block the wind enough. I'll see, but I wanted to thank you again for all your help. You were so helpful here, I searched your Videos page for things I might be interested in and decided to subscribe. Thanks again, John.

[@ryanespinoza7297]

Damn I just had my gas shutoff while new piping is laid in the alley so figured now would be a good time to go replace my range since its already off. I go to my valve in the back and it wont turn, i grab pliers and it spins 120 degrees with the opposite nut spinning. So I tighten it down and try turning it more. You might have just saved me a new valve fitting on my gas line. Edit: The valve looks exactly like the one at 3:00 too so someone beat me to it it seems lol

[@jillbuchanan833]

So so so helpful. Thank you!

[@guadalupeordaz827]

Great video! I Wonder how many lives you have saved?

[@BrianBell7]

just saved me a plumber charge. thanks man!!

[@indriadrayton1132]

Thank you! You are a fount of information! 😁

[@tylerruthven]

i have a valve like the one shown in the ceiling - a couple of other videos recommended these types of valves be replaced with newer ones because they said they were more prone to leaking. What are your thoughts? Should I replace them even if there's no detectable leak?

[@tylerruthven]

i went ahead and turned it off - I got a little smell of gas when the nut was loose so I could turn the valve but when I tightened it up the i didn't smell anything else and I tested with bubbles and didn't see any other leak.

[@enduringcharm]

If a valve is at the end of a run then it's not that difficult to replace, so go ahead and do so if you're worried. When a valve is in the middle of a run (so that there is pipe after the valve) then it can be a real bear to replace and therefore a lot more expensive if you are having it done. Since gas pipe is screwed together it often requires dissembling a whole bunch of pipe to remove something in the middle, unless the original plumber used a union somewhere along the way. In any case, if you don't smell or detect gas, then I wouldn't worry. The pressure in gas lines is very low, so you'll typically have time to smell a gas leak before something awful happens.

[@xanderjames6510]

Thank You! This was extremely helpful.

[@lovepeace831]

Amazing video .. thanks for your kind information and tips .🙏 god bless you

[@WorldReserveCurrency]

Great compilation of info!

[@jallard3640]

quick question, is it SAFE to turn off the natural gas line valve to an appliance for extended period of times? i want to shut down the gas line to my stove when i dont use it, and turn the gas on only when i use it (30mins a day). Is that safe? or does doing so cause build up in the pipes and possibly explosions?

[@enduringcharm]

Well, there are two aspects to your question and I think maybe a hidden fear on your part. First, it is safe to leave a gas line valve in the off position for extended period. That is literally their purpose. Gas lines are under very low pressure, around 3 PSI or so. By way of comparison your automotive tires are typically under about 32 PSI of pressure. Leaving a gas line shut off does not build up more pressure, it just prevents movement of the gas to another area of pipe. Second, these gas shut-off valves are NOT designed to be used in a constant manner. They are meant to shut off the gas while an appliance is being replaced or while an appliance will not be installed. Your idea to turn the valve on and off daily is really not a good idea, because over time that could actually lead to a leak at the valve itself. They are just not designed for that kind of use. That said, the valves contained inside your oven ARE designed for that kind of use and they do a great job of sealing the gas supply when not being used. So unless you have a known problem with your oven or range, I would rely on those valves rather than the shut-off valve. If you do have a known problem or you smell a gas leak, then shut off your supply valve and have an appliance pro or a plumber determine where the leak is coming from.

[@jallard3640]

@@enduringcharm many many thanks for your answer!

[@yardwork_jordans]

If you no longer need a gas line to something like a dryer, do you need to cap the natural gas line after you turn it off?

[@enduringcharm]

calvin chu If the line will no longer be needed (permanently) then it would be a good idea to cap it off rather than rely just on the valve.

[@willyjilly9684]

Great video, real life saver for me!! Thanks again

[@sclapsclap177]

good video. I had a missing handle/knob on the line going to my water heater. It just kept turning and turning.

[@morganperez-garcia8686]

This helped a lot!

[@PopcornChicken]

Is it OK to close the valve so no gas is coming in for prolonged periods of time? For instance, for the summer we dont use the wall heater, so can I close the valve? We usually just turn off the pilot light during the summer, but we are interested in closing the gas completely.

[@enduringcharm]

Yes, totally fine. Loosen the nut, shut the valve off, and re-tighten the nut.

[@whoisradu]

I had my gas valve indoor turned off for a few months while renovating. Now we’ve connected the stove and the stove won’t light. Does it take a while for gas to start flowing or must we head outside? Thanks. We have a wheel valve thingy

[@enduringcharm]

Assuming you got the valve turned back on correctly, it can indeed take a few minutes or even more for your stove to light. Natural gas isn't under a lot of pressure in your home, less than one PSI. Also, some appliances may have safety devices to prevent lighting after a shut-down, so check your manual. Generally you can connect the gas, turn the stovetop on and leave it open. Allow the igniter to spark while you wait, or hold a butane lighter flame near the burner while you wait. If you have a leak you should smell the gas long before it presents a danger.

[@whoisradu]

@@enduringcharm hi, thank you so much for the quick reply. It turns out that I did have the valve turned in the wrong direction which is odd because I was definitely keeping track and I have one of those old wheel valves and I guess I just had it in the wrong direction. The stove is lighting fine now, although it seems like when I turn on any of the burners the center valve is clicking, but maybe it’s because I’ve been without a gas stove for almost a year now, and I’ve just probably forgotten what they sound like, L O L. But thank you so so much and thank you for this video. It really helped me.

[@pleasantone2587]

This was VERY helpful. Thanks

[@STLFANSS]

thank you.. where we live has an old ratty looking gas dryer that was already here and I want it out of here.. now I know how to disconnect thanks so much.

[@kenstockton7793]

Very good thanks, very same valves that I have, this old house 👍

[@frankelijah1]

Great tutorial......I'm trying to disconnect my Gas Dryer for replacement. It's been in place for almost 20 years! Therefore, it's hard to see where the shut off valve for the dryer is, if there is one. I'm trying NOT to have to shut off the gas to the whole house!

[@enduringcharm]

It can be difficult to see sometimes, and it is always possible that there is no shutoff at the dryer itself. Most of the time there is, though, so if you don't see one right at the flexible gas line, follow the hard line back and see if it's a few feet away. And, it's good to familiarize yourself with the main shut off just in case you need it. If you don't find a dryer shut off at all, consider having a plumber install one for you. In my area that would be a couple hundred dollars at most.

[@zacharykendrick2957]

My mainline gasline valve is fucking paint over in some strong as paint, hence why i had to google how to turn it off at the stove lol.

[@eriolmos9634]

Thanks so much for this video!

[@crabhawk3775]

Thanks, My handle can now move either direction I was thinking that it would only turn a 1/4 turn either on or off.

[@enduringcharm]

+Crab Hawk The newer styles are often the 1/4 turn shut-off but older valves can sometimes turn either way. The important thing is to recognize when the handle is perpendicular to the pipe it is off and when parallel it is on.

[@SydeshowMO]

Nice job Joe Peci!!!

[@jcb928]

Thanks for the tips

[@JohnSmith-nj4zq]

It'd be cool if you cut open one of those valves and show how it functions on the inside when it is turned on and off.

[@cherylsmith3842]

if you turn down the gas line to stove can you still use the stove ? does it matter how much gas is comeing out of the line ? can i use the oven and stove top at the same time ?

[@enduringcharm]

+cheryl smith Are you asking if you can turn the gas valve part way to reduce the amount of gas available to the appliance? These valves are not meant to be used the way you would use a water faucet. They are meant to be a means to shut the gas off or keep it on, not anything in between. Additionally, gas lines are sized by professionals to serve a particular demand. So, if you add an appliance you may need to make the gas line bigger, for example. Gas lines are under low pressure (something like 2-5 PSI) and the size of the supply line (like 1/2 inch, 3/4 inch or 1 inch in a typical residential circumstance) depends on the distance to the appliance and how many appliances are being served on a particular line. To answer your question in it's simplest form, it does matter how much gas is available at the connection to the appliance. If you have a combination stove top and oven that was installed properly there should be enough gas for both at the same time.

[@AaronMcMillin]

I have a valve just like that last one behind the stove in my new property. The control spins freely through multiple full turns. Is this normal? Gas should be off anytime it's perpendicular?

[@enduringcharm]

Some valves will allow a 360 degree turn. If you put the handle perpendicular and the nut on the opposite side is tight then the gas should be off. Always test to be sure, though!

[@AaronMcMillin]

That's my plan. I figure if the stove won't light we're in good shape :)

[@jacquelynharper3659]

Great well I just turned off three in my house but they are old school gas cast iron. They are so old that I had to spray some stuff on it to move the valves. It worked however the one in my mom's kitchen has the bolt and long valve on it. I got it to move but I tried putting on the gas stove to hear if the gas was on or off. Unfortunately since my mom's stove is so old the gas will need to be lit with a match on top of where we cook. I was successful with the others but don't know why this one just turns but how do I know when the gas is off? Am I turn ing it in the right direction or am I not? Any advice would help at this point lol!.....I will laugh now or the house will explode 😆

[@enduringcharm]

If the handle is parallel the gas is on, if it is perpendicular it is off. Gas is only 3-5 PSI in pressure, so it isn't going to come bursting out. Put the handle perpendicular and let the gas stove burn a flame until it burns out.

[@jacquelynharper3659]

@@enduringcharm thank you! So all I have to do is turn it towards me then its off? I wish I had a picture of my valve 😔 OK I will try that

[@jacquelynharper3659]

@@enduringcharm well I took your advice and it worked I put on the pilot then I moved the valve the pilot on top of the stove went out. I can't thank you enough ☺️

[@enduringcharm]

Glad it helped!

[@abcdefghij2009o]

Super helpful! Thank you!

[@gooey5296]

Great job!!!

[@joy-gc9ym]

Hey John, Thanks for your great videos. My question is, I am needed to replace the thermocouple on my water heater. The only valve I see on the black pipe coming from the meter (in the house) is similar to the water valve on a garden hose faucet. The turning range seems to be very minimal. Any ideas?

[@enduringcharm]

If you have a standard, stand-alone water heater you may have the ability to turn off the gas right at the control valve mounted on the heater. There are a million variations, though, so investigate further before taking my word for it! However, you may be able to turn the gas off there and still replace your thermocouple. The valve you describe on the gas line could be a gate valve instead of a ball valve, which is no longer used but may have appeared in older homes. Gate valves have a bad reputation for failing at inopportune times, so you might want to go back to the gas meter itself. The meter will have a means to shut off gas to the whole house. If you have other gas appliances you can shut off gas at the meter and then run your gas stove or whatever until the flame goes out to be sure the line is clear.

[@joy-gc9ym]

@@enduringcharm thank you so much for your help with this. You are right about the gate valve. I was able to work it back and forth and it opened up. The gas company told me that the pilot would not stay lit so I was ready to change the thermocouple. I decided to try it for myself and I had no problems with the pilot. Been running fine for 24hrs. I will talked your advice and change the valve out. Thanks again and I look forward to more videos.

[@enduringcharm]

Glad it worked out. Those gate valves are nothing but trouble!

[@whoiwasborntobe]

thank you this was very helpful!

[@Adam-hs4de]

My old school valve is stuck in a fireplace insert. The kind where it's metal and it's inside firehouse (not external from it). There is little to no room to loosen under nut. Unfortunately the valve is in an "on" position. Is this something where I need a pro or just better tools?

[@enduringcharm]

I'm not sure I understand your question, or at least I'm having trouble picturing the problem. I gather that you have a gas valve located inside a gas fireplace. You're saying that you can't get access to the nut opposite the shut-off handle? Without seeing the problem it's hard to offer a solution. Obviously whoever installed the valve was able to get to the nut, though. Possible tools could include various wrenches, standard pliers, channel-lock pliers, needle nose pliers, and offset needle nose pliers. It may be that the but is not very tight anyway if the access is limited. Depending on how the pipe was installed it may also be possible to twist the valve itself on the pipe in order to give better access to the nut.

[@Adam-hs4de]

@@enduringcharm yeah, I'm a schmuck, I shouldn't have assumed. Crescent wrench layed flat and gave me purchase to loosen and valve released nicely, with subsequent proper tightening.

[@KingKatura]

3:57 I know this is a old video but honestly we have no heat & im gunna have to change everything myself because of where i live. The gas valve to the furnace is old & similar to this one, But instead of a piece that looks like a handle its just a giant Square Nut on the back side, & a washer & tiny nut on the front side. do i twist the big huge nut i remember seeing someone having to hold one end & twist the big square along time ago?

[@enduringcharm]

My guess is that the big nut is the handle. Loosen the small nut, and use a wrench to turn the larger nut 90 degrees. Check that it is off before you go disconnecting anything permanently.

[@bestblackoutvideos]

What if the valve goes all the way to the left and all the way to the right ? On an older model valve furnace , ? , mine does ? does that mean it can be turned parallel either direction to be on ?

[@enduringcharm]

Yes, if the handle is parallel it is on, if the handle is perpendicular it is off. Presumably you have the nut on the opposite side and that should be re-tightened if you are leaving the valve in the off or on position.

[@islamerica3032]

What if the back nut becomes loose.....can it keep the valve from opening? My gas won't turn on in any position since I messed with it after my water heater went out and the back nut seems to be loose.

[@enduringcharm]

I suspect that you just aren't waiting long enough for the gas to get to the water heater. If you loosen the nut and turn the handle parallel with the pipe, the gas is on. There will be a procedure on the water heater tag to follow in order to relight the pilot, and sometimes you have to do that multiple times before it will start. Gas isn't under high pressure, so it can take some time to fill the pipe and start flowing at the pilot light.

[@MrAquinas1]

Some of the real old valves were a butterfly valve with a shroud around the pivot at the opposite end of the handle so they are hard to bubble test. It pays to own a sniffer tester. Moreover, if you have a real antique valve, replace it. Any plumber replacing your heating system or water heater should renew them if they are real old.

[@whoisradu]

Good advice

[@elishamikel8053]

Very helpful video

[@Joy-tb1cp]

Do you have a video on relighting the pilot light on a gas water heater by chance?

[@enduringcharm]

I don't, but the procedure could vary among brands. The procedure should be written on the side of your heater somewhere. Speaking generally, you turn the valve mounted on the side of the tank to the off position and wait, like, five or ten minutes. Now, some older water heaters may require an actual flame be introduced to do the start up, but most will have an igniter--a button to press that "snaps" a spark just like a gas grill. So, typically you turn the gas valve to the "start" or "pilot" position and hold the knob down. This will allow gas to start entering the chamber. Then you keep pressing the igniter button every few seconds until you see (or your helper sees) the blue flame in the window. When you see that pilot flame, keep holding the knob down for another minute, and then turn it to the "on" or "run" position. It all just a safety thing to prevent gas from building up, that''s all.

[@Joy-tb1cp]

enduringcharm Thank you very much! However, my temperature settings only say hot, A, B, C, very hot. There’s no setting for pilot. Therefore which setting do I put it on before turning the knob off and then pilot?

[@enduringcharm]

You sure there's not another knob? You are referring to the temperature control, but there is typically another knob for the pilot. There are lots of different brands, though, and each could have a different procedure. Didn't you find directions on the tank label? Or, if you can find a model number you may find the manual online.

[@superbowl32]

I turned the nut counter clockwise to loosen it and the valve turned with it 1/4 turn and is now in the off position, is this a normal thing that can happen and I can just leave it like that?

[@enduringcharm]

Probably there was enough friction on the nut you turned to bring the other side with it. If you held a wrench on both sides at the same time you could avoid this. As long as the valve indicates it is closed, though, it doesn't matter how you got there. Remember to tighten the nut back up, however, to avoid a leak.

[@azataliking8302]

Amazing well explained video. Thank You

[@rasim81]

Hi. Can you tell me how do you shut of from street? We have a project that involve digging whole front yard. Contact National Grid and they told me to wait a year to shut my gas line from street. I don’t think my contractor and I can wait a year to complete the project . Thanks in advance!

[@enduringcharm]

You have control from the meter onward. You can shut off gas at the meter using a similar valve as shown in the video. Shutting off before that typically requires the utility to do the work. Are you moving the gas line in the yard? I'm trying to imagine what kind of project would require shutting down the gas before your meter.

[@rasim81]

enduringcharm we are adding parking garage. Pretty much we’ll go through foundation and part of the basement will be garage. Since basement ceiling is not tall enough we’ll be digging 3’ down.

[@enduringcharm]

I see--so at some point the gas pipe leading into the home must be moved and the gas shut off to move it. Different states and utility companies probably have different rules, but if your utility is telling you that appointments are a year out, that's a problem. One solution, and I'm only half joking, is to start digging (after calling the state markout hotline, of course) and then call to say you smell gas. I'll bet your appointment will be expedited. You might also call your state utility regulator and see what they can suggest. It is possible your contractor could work around the pipe for awhile, but a year is a long time.

[@rasim81]

enduringcharm Honestly at this point I would like to get rid of my natural gas connection completely. We are only using gas for stove. We have oil furnace for heat.

[@foxcrane9486]

When you turn off the valve to the appliance (like the dryer in the first segment), is it possible that it may have been engineered, so that the customer can't turn it back on (for safety purposes)?

[@enduringcharm]

Fox Crane I'm not aware of any such valve. If you are having trouble restarting an appliance It's possible the appliance itself has a safety device of some sort. Also, you may not have waited long enough. Natural gas is a very low pressure delivery, so it takes a little time for the flexible hose between the valve and the appliance to fill up. Assuming the valve is not damaged in some way it's likely your issue is with the appliance itself. Check the manual for a start-up procedure.

[@RockerDadNYC]

What can you do if the valve, just like the first one in the video, doesn't turn at all? I've loosened the nut and it still doesn't turn.

[@enduringcharm]

Sometimes age and gumminess of the valve can cause it to stick. Loosen the opposing nut so that no threads are exposed, then tap on the end of the nut toward the pipe. I mean TAP, not whack it with a sledge hammer like a gorilla! That should help loosen the valve internally and then you can shut it off.

[@RockerDadNYC]

@@enduringcharm thank you! I will try that today

[@romp8667]

Good Job Sir"

[@kerrythomas360]

I have the setup @2:50, After you loosen the nut to the gas vavle to turn it off, and once it is in the off position, you don't mention if the nut should be tightened again with the valve in closed position? would this be a best practice or does it not matter? Also my dryer gas line is a few feet from the stove, would it be a good practice to blow out the pilots before I turn off the gas line and open some windows?

[@enduringcharm]

Yes, it's best to tighten the nut again but it's okay for a short period if you are just swapping an appliance. As for pilot lights, it's fair to say that the majority of modern dryers and stoves no longer have pilot lights. Same goes for gas furnaces. Ignitors have replaced pilot lights, either the click-to-spark style or the glow-plug style, and they ignite just before the gas is discharged in the appliance. If you have an old appliance that does have a pilot, or a gas water heater, then you can use the dial on the appliance itself to shut off the gas and the pilot. Window or door ventilation can't hurt. Gas is under low pressure, though, so you needn't fear the room suddenly filling up in a flash.

[@kerrythomas360]

tyvm for the reply, one thing I noticed on my pipe/valve is that there its more square the opposite of the nut. so Im wondering if the whole handle fell off? im going to change my profile pic to the image of what I have - it seems like the right thing but so many variations of these darn things makes me nuts, every time I think yeah thats it there is always some subtle difference.

[@enduringcharm]

Clever idea changing your profile pic! It's still a little small to see, but from what I can tell you are just missing the handle.

[@kerrythomas360]

ok I changed the pic again and shows the left side of the former image. So I researched a bit and turned it a quarter turn, so it is no longer diamond but now flat normal square, it was a smooth turn and didn't need to touch the right side at all. I turned the dryer on after a few minutes and didn't feel or hear the gas ignite so I am feeling that mission is accomplished. I still want to wait an hour before I disconnect the gas pipe. So no heat on the dryer should be my sign right, considering the dryer works great just the day before and prior. thanks again for replying, really helping me out.

[@enduringcharm]

If I understand you correctly, you believe you shut the valve off and then you started the dryer and found that you had no start-up flame or heat? Then you should be fine. When you disconnect the flexible tube to the dryer there may be a slight residual smell of gas, but nothing overwhelming.

[@DadaPoopoo]

What if the side with the ears is cemented in place? But the gas guy was still able to turn off the gas?

[@enduringcharm]

I'm going to guess that what you were looking at was not cement but what is called "pipe dope." This is a gooey lubricant and sealant used by plumbers on pipe fittings, but over time it can harden or dry out. At that point it may appear to be cement-like. If that 's what it is then it won't harm anything. Plumbers often gob it on thick, so there is extra outside the fitting.

[@DadaPoopoo]

@@enduringcharm Thank you for the insight. I appreciate it.

[@cosmikat2003]

Useful, thank you

[@gasolinaquema8416]

My switch is broken like at 3:05 and I tried loosening the nut but I still can't turn it with pliers. Do you recommend a tool for turning the switch or a solution?

[@enduringcharm]

Eleazar Ramirez You shouldn't need too much force, so be careful. If you loosen the not with a wrench (lefty-loosey, righty-tighty!) just a little bit you should be able to use adjustable pliers or a vice grip on the opposite side where the handle was to turn it 90 degrees. It is possible the valve is just frozen with time and dirt so if you still have trouble it's better to have a pro look at it or use the main valve instead. Pay attention to which direction you are turning--working in a confined space or at an odd angle can sometimes be confusing.

[@syphtv3965]

thank man very detailed

[@JohnJohnson-pc2fn]

my gas stove broke and I don't want to replace it at this time since I never really used it. Is it safe just to shut off the gas valve. I don't want to shut the gas to the entire house (furnace, etc)

[@enduringcharm]

John Johnson As a general rule it should be safe. Assuming the valve is in good shape and was installed correctly it should hold back the gas (which is fairly low pressure, by the way) without issue. Another option for the longer term is to have a plumber install a cap on the line. He'll turn off the whole house for a few minutes, remove the valve, replace it with a solid cap, and then turn everything back on.

[@JohnJohnson-pc2fn]

enduringcharm Thanks for the info Do they have these caps for water heaters too?

[@enduringcharm]

John Johnson Any gas appliance can be capped off, either using black pipe fittings if that's what you have or some other style if you have an alternative piping system. Your plumber will know what to do if you choose to go that route.

[@jasminmontellano8831]

thank you for this video

[@karenfries170]

My gas line feeding our range has no shut-off valve. One burner of the stove will not turn off and I was going to turn off the gas yo the stove since we can't figure out how to cut the gas to a single burner. Without a valve, what can be done?

[@enduringcharm]

Karen Fries You might check farther down the line to see if the valve for the stove is located somewhere else, like below the floor. It's supposed to be right behind the stove but you never know. If there truly is no valve then your only option is to shut off the main and have a plumber install a valve for the stove.

[@tromablunts85]

thanks so much, really informative.

[@dawnhandke6186]

How far does the nut have tone turned the shut off side is really stuck will Mr turn

[@dawnhandke6186]

How do I get the shutoff valve on my gas dryer gas line in stuck it won't turn