Cabinet Beaded Face Frames With A Simple System

Traditional cabinets often have a bead detail around the drawer and door edges. The original method of doing this was to apply a bead moulding or sometimes to scratch the bead into the frame in more primitive styles. With modern routers we can cut beads easily enough, but what is the best way to miter the stiles and rails together? In this video I'll show you how I'm accomplishing this traditional detail for some kitchen cabinets.
►To purchase:
amzn.to/3Dkh8J5 (Kreg 1/4" notch cutting bit)
amzn.to/3Lft3uC (Kreg 3/8" notch cutting bit)
amzn.to/3uxzr9C (Kreg 1/4 " beading bit)
amzn.to/3JXweXH (Kreg 3/8" beading bit)
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[@lundebc]

Those look great and the technique is pretty straight forward. Thanks for publishing this!

[@rwunsche]

I know you made this 4 years ago, but I just wanted to say Thanks for the great video. There are a couple other similar videos out there for making beaded face frames, but yours was by far the easiest to follow and most useful. It gave me the confidence to attempt it myself on a big built-in cabinet project and the results are perfect. I went with the smaller sized Kreg notching bit so that I could reduce the width of my rails to 1 5/8 (if single beaded.. 1 7/8 if beaded on both sides). I found the best approach to be to fiddle around until you can make a perfect/tight master sample of notch and rail, then keep those for reference to repeat the router set up later. Also, the line markings work fine as reference to start setup, but I found that using a stop block on a scrap piece is the safest way to go for repeatability. Thanks again for the great video!

[@enduringcharm]

That's great to hear--glad it worked out for you!

[@stankolodin5586]

Why am I mesmerized by the angles of the joints? Very nice.

[@krn14242]

Nice detail John. Thanks.

[@amandalong1749]

This video is exactly what I needed. Thanks so much for sharing!

[@randypowell4799]

good video.

[@toonybrain]

Thank you for this video. Very helpful in answering my questions. Really nice job.

[@shanehertzog5812]

I like your router table jig,smart man.

[@paullasko2023]

Excellent job explaining the process. Glad you addressed in the comments how the 45 degree ends on the rails are made.

[@alansheiness8148]

I did the 45s using the same bit, lining up the mark for the foot of the 45 to my mark in my backer board for the foot. See my prior comment. I found this ensured that all cuts are the same height, precisely.

[@alaindesforges]

I do believe , Sir, that you just saved me about 400$. I just bought a used shaper and I'm going to rig up something very similar to what you are using here. Well done!

[@willmen08]

This is awesome, thanks!

[@Mopardude]

Interesting! I didn't know there was a solution like this for us little guys who want to do beaded frames but don't want to buy the expensive machines that normally do this.

[@McNallyMultiMedia]

Pretty cool John. I bought one of those Kreg bits after making a beaded face frame with the miters on the bead cut by hand. Let's just say I'm glad it was a painted frame. I started to build a set up then realized I didn't have an accurate way to index the cuts. Your set up is exactly what I was looking for!

[@enduringcharm]

I usually look for the simplest way to perform a task. Sometimes elaborate jigs are necessary, but often an old school trick can be adapted to new use!

[@darrencritchley5425]

Great video

[@johnmutton799]

I do think a flip stop on your fence will make a big difference. Drill a threaded insert into the edge of the flipstop then add a bolt with a nut on it to act as a micro adjustable stop. So you can set it up for constant cutting of the work piece. This is more accurate than ling a pencil line.

[@frankvucolo6249]

Nice video and a good alternate to the traditional method of beading the door openings and drawer fronts. I guess if you used a shallower bead detail, you would just lower the bit in the table to the correct exposure? And... if you wanted a bead detail on the interior of a flat panel door, you might be able to adapt this to a mortise and tenon frame and panel door, too. Damn... ya got me thinking

[@alansheiness8148]

Instead of tape on the table, I used a square to draw lines up from each point of the profile on the backer board. These lines are easy to match against my marks on my pieces. I also mounted a stop block on outboard side of the backer board which sits flush against my push block, so clamped against the push block it always sits at exactly the same place v the router bit. I had no problem beading first.

[@carterharrington]

I found this video to be exactly what i was looking for- trying to mimic a new door frame to match the 1890 one, and have realized that I'm gonna have to stick with the applied trim method seeing the ingenuity level of your skills way past mine!

[@enduringcharm]

Nothing wrong with applied mouldings--that's also a time tested method.

[@johnjacobjinglehimerschmid3555]

Way beyond my skills .... Nice looking face frames!

[@duffleaver6108]

Good information, would like to see how the rails were done.

[@enduringcharm]

The rails and stiles are both done the same way. If you have a rail with stile connections at the end and a stile in the middle you just make the relief cut in the middle and miter the ends for the relief cuts in the end stiles.

[@williamconkling3581]

This is an excellent video. Will this method work using a ogee edge or Roman ogee edge vs the beaded edge? Thanks ... easy to follow your explanation.

[@enduringcharm]

Yes, the concepts are the same even with a different edge profile.

[@tc9148]

Love it, very innovative. What is the source for the metal channel in the router table for the fence to ride it?

[@enduringcharm]

Miter track or "T" track can be purchased from various online woodworking sources, including Rockler, Grizzly, and probably amazon.

[@tc9148]

Thank you. Found it.

[@chrisswartzwelder8494]

How did you make the cuts on the end of the rails? Great video. Thanks for the info.

[@enduringcharm]

The rail ends just need to have the corners nipped off at a 45 degree angle. A miter saw is what I use for this purpose, but a table saw with a miter gauge or a radial arm saw are alternatives. It's easy to see how far to cut, because you are cutting right to where the bead profile ends.

[@darkoserafimovski1696]

Great video, full of instructions. I'm attempting to install 1 1/2'' face frame on my 16mm (particle board) carcasses. Since the inner edge of the stiles is not flush with the vertical boards of the carcass but sticks out inwards for about 22mm, can you please recommend what type of concealed hinge to use for the doors. Regards all the way from Macedonia, Europe. Thanks.

[@enduringcharm]

Well, you don't mention what type of doors--inset or overlay--you are installing. However, you can purchase what we in the states call "Euro" hinges which mount on the edge of the stile for an overlay door. Or, if you have inset doors most hinges styles for that door are mounted on the edge of the stile anyway. I actually have a video on euro-hinges you might want to check out.

[@darkoserafimovski1696]

Inset doors. I'll check your video on the hinges now.

[@enduringcharm]

For inset doors they do make some euro hinges, but they really aren't the best solution. Traditional mortise hinges or the newer "non-mortise" hinges really work the best and give a traditional look.

[@darkoserafimovski1696]

@@enduringcharm Thanks.

[@gizmobently]

Great way of saving some money on this setup. Just like to know that it seems to me that cutting off those 45 degree ends of the rails that go into the profile made with your bit has to be right on the button or will show up on the cabinet face. How did you set up this cut as it is a very precise cut it would seem to me?Thanks and great job.

[@enduringcharm]

The 45 cut really isn't as difficult as it may seem. Honestly, I think I eyeballed most of them on this project after getting one test piece to fit. You can make a mark by holding the rail just underneath the stile. Or, if you're having trouble, you can sneak up on the cut by starting a little big and working your way down. I'm sure some folks would set up a 45 router bit with another jig, or perhaps a table saw tilted, but I just used a chopsaw for those cuts. There are those who enjoy the engineering process of every cut, which is fine if that's your thing. For me, I'm just trying to get the work done quickly and accurately.

[@rwunsche]

Lay the rail on it's side and then cut the 45 with the same notching bit. Once you make a perfect one, clamp a stop block on the fence so you can repeat the cut, then cut them all at once.

[@seankachadorian1044]

Hi can you tell me what bit you use to make the bead? thank you!

[@enduringcharm]

There are links in the description, but any standard beading bit--typically 1/4" or 3/8."

[@jessebierma2833]

I have some pre-finished fridge panels that I need to make a similar joint in. The panels are obviously too big for a router table. There are 2 side panels and a top panel that need to be joined together. Any ideas on how to do that consistently and efficiently? I have several to do.

[@enduringcharm]

I think I need some more information, because I'm not clear on what you are trying to do. Is it that you have pre-finished panels that you wish to build a frame to hold? Typically when your cabinet maker supplies prefinished panels for appliances they are attached with clips or from behind. And if you wanted to have them look like doors then the cabinet supplier would do so and give you the finished product. I'm just not following what you need to do...

[@jessebierma2833]

@@enduringcharm I wish I could articulate it better. The panels are for the sides and top of the fridge. The face frame is pre-installed on the panel permanently and painted. The face frames have a bead on the inside and I need to put the panels together with the type of joint that is shown in the video.

[@enduringcharm]

So, the cabinet supplier gave you everything you need, but you just need to stick it together? Or is it that you need help getting the supplied panel attached to your fridge? It would be nice if YT allowed pictures on these posts!

[@phanomchanthavong1668]

Nice job! Is that a 3/8 bead? have you tried a 1/4 bead? cause i bought that but not sure how that would look

[@enduringcharm]

No, I used a 1/4 inch bead. The measure includes the rounded part but also the slot next to it. I think a 1/4 inch bead is pretty standard for most cabinets.

[@mansfieldcarpentry805]

Is there not a specific cabinet bit set like this?

[@enduringcharm]

There may be--Kreg makes a commercial jig for the purpose. Sometimes I find a shop-made tool is as good or better than a commercial jig, though.

[@jimmyeco531]

I am having so much trouble it’s my beaded face frames. When I run the wood through my router the wood jumps and the router does not sound right. Could this be because my jig is not sturdy? How did you build your jig?

[@enduringcharm]

Well, it's hard to diagnose from a distance. It sounds like maybe your problem is with your router or bit. The beading bit really doesn't remove that much material, so routing should be smooth. Possibly you have your cutting depth too deep, you could have an issue with the router motor or bearings, or it may be your technique as far as speed or pressure. Try setting up your fence so you are taking just a little bit of material off, and then send through some scrap wood. if it goes well, then increase the cutting depth slowly until you find where it starts to chatter. I think you'll be able to diagnose the problem by then.

[@HBSuccess]

Here's some things to check - might help you. 1) Is the bit razor-sharp? 2) Is everything free of pitch/sap/sawdust build-up? 3) Is the bit set properly...DO NOT bottom out the bit in your router collet. Insert it finger-tight all the way to the bottom of the collet, then PULL IT BACK OUT 1/16" or so. If it's bottomed-out vibration will loosen it = ruined cut 4)Is your router powerful enough? Some consumer-grade 1/4" routers simply can't get the job done 5) Is the router in good shape? If there's any slop in the bearings, etc - all bets are off 6)ARE YOU FEEDING THE STOCK IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION ? - Wood "Jumping" makes me think you may be trying to do a "climb cut" . Your feed should be AGAINST the way the bit spins, so it provides resistance vs. pulling your stock out of your hands 7) Is all your stock prepared correctly - square and smooth? 8)I'm assuming you're using a router table - if you're trying to hand-hold a router with a beading bit on narrow stock, you're going to need a different set-up to fully support the router so it can't tip as you make the cut. That's why most people recommend a router table for a bead cut 8) Note that if you do go from hand-held to router table.. the feed direction may have to be reversed depending on which side of the stock you were on when hand-holding 9) USE FEATHERBOARDS. If you want consistent results on a router table, you have to make sure the wood stays against the bit the way you want. A featherboard set up on BOTH the table and the fence assure a consistent cut. 10) You may have to take multiple passes- sneaking up on the depth you want - so you'll have to tweak your featherboard set-up as well. The bottom line to clean repeatable cuts is eliminating variables. The machinery all has to be in good repair, cutters sharp, and stock properly prepared. Hope that helps.

[@tpcoachfix]

How do you cut the 45 degree cuts on the ends of the rails?

[@enduringcharm]

A miter saw makes quick work of it.

[@richardlug6139]

Use the same setup as the stiles, but use a new mark on the tape that only goes in so far from the end to take the corner off. If you are going to do a lot of this make a jig that has fence where you have a track on top so you can have a stop to make repeated cuts

[@zennloo7343]

Turn the style on its end and you can run the 45 off the edge of the notching bit

[@rwunsche]

@@zennloo7343 This is exactly what I did (and used a stop block to keep it repeatable).

[@patrickarchuleta5359]

what kind of router bits did you use. thanks and God bless.

[@enduringcharm]

Look in the video description at the bottom, I put links to the appropriate bits.

[@patrickarchuleta5359]

@@enduringcharm amen

[@choimdachoim9491]

I don't understand making the interior of the cabinets black...you can't see in there when you're looking for stuff. I paint all my interiors gloss white so that any amount of light entering bounces around and people can see what they're looking for. I also add LED strips on the under side of the base-cabinet shelves with contact-switches when possible and line the shelves with white pvc bumpy-surface sheets so pots and pans and bowls slide easily. It's a delight to open the cabinet door, the light comes on and you can actually see everything inside.

[@Kraftika]

Stately 🌟 ↕

[@thomasnorthcastle4130]

Let me tell you. The Kreg jig is WELL worth the money compared to doing it the way you did it.

[@enduringcharm]

Really? My system works quickly for me and I like the flexibility it gives me to adjust cuts as I see the need. Plus, I'd rather have the $400 in my pocket.

[@agent7agent759]

Would prefer the kreg jig but for 500$ cad its overpriced, good way to go with DIY, thanks for sharing!!!