Engine teardown to the bare cylinders - for what purpose?

Grab some G54 merch here - www.en.garage5...
You might've guessed that this is part two of a recent experiment we tried.
For business inquiries: [e-mail]

[@lupulflamand5673]

Next time try to use a radiator to cool the oil. And add a fan to help the air flow through the radiator fins.

[@autotalon]

I was thinking this but actually route the oil through the cooling circuit too, so the water pump also pumps oil

[@4BillC]

Yeah because "air cooled" engines really use the oil as a type of coolant. Sort of...

[@MarkZukkininberg]

Intresting!

[@K-Effect]

Replace the water/antifreeze in the cooling system with used motor oil and see what happens?

[@autotalon]

@@K-Effect Well no I mean literally make the cooling system part of the oil system, have the water pump draw from the oil pan, etc.

[@Techcensorshipbot]

You guys do more interesting novel ideas more than any other mainstream youtube channel. Its really cool.

[@tomtheplummer7322]

It’s hot

[@MrRahimhosein]

Aluminum is better at absorbing and releasing heat but there is too much mass. Not enough cooling fins and surface area for the heat to dissipate

[@PREDATEURLT]

mass is not a problem, it makes temperature more stable, but surface area is far to small.

[@Hipsters_N_Hippies]

That Cylinder head and then the top of the cylinders is the hot spot. The temperature gauge should be monitoring the middle of the head. And much colder spark plugs.

[@gabrielv.4358]

Makes sense. If they soldered diretcly to the cylinder a LOT of fins and put 2 fans on each side that could have worked. I think it's still better to hook 3 oil coolers and that'll do the job!!!!

[@K-Effect]

Last time they did this there was snow and ice on the ground, that had to of helped

[@billyjackson5799]

​@@gabrielv.4358 The problem with that is the fact they filled both the water and oil passages with the aluminum

[@blazodelic359]

Next 2-stroke lada engine!!!

[@Tode420]

Yesss that would be awesome

[@noahharran9527]

Great idea

[@dooflydetailguuy4349]

Great idea

[@BoondyIsOn]

Then try using RC nitro fuel to see the fuel can produce more power.

[@averyalexander2303]

I think a giant oil cooler with its own fan would be worth a try. Installing some type of heatsinks/fins on the oil pan, valve cover, and lower end of the engine block should also help. The cooler you can keep the oil, the more heat it will be able to remove from the block, head, pistons, cylinders, etc as it flows through. The oil is normally cooled by the relatively cool coolant flowing through the block and head, but since there is no coolant in the engine, you will have to cool the oil some other way.

[@Mr.Robert1]

They make pans that have fins for cooling. As you drive the air keeps the temperature down. Never heard of needing a fan in that area. Think of high revving motorcycle engines. 17,000 rpm, never a fan. Air cooled or a radiator.

[@packerbrewerbuck]

@@Mr.Robert1 All the high revving sport bike engines are liquid cooled with a radiator and fan, some have an oil cooler too

[@averyalexander2303]

@@Mr.Robert1 I have seen those, some cars actually come with them from the factory. As for the fan, I was talking about putting one on a large radiator style oil cooler behind the grill. Normally a fan isn't needed on an oil cooler since the speed is normally high enough for plenty of wind in performance applications, but since they are driving at such low speeds and stopping all the time and there's no coolant to cool the oil, ram air certainly wouldn't be adequate on its own.

[@packerbrewerbuck]

@averyalexander2303 Yes I've never seen a fan used on a motorcycle oil cooler before but all coolant radiators have an electric or mechanical fan of some sort fitted to them. Keeps temps down in traffic or else they could boil over. Liquid cooled engines are way more susceptible to overheating and head gasket damage than air/oil cooled motors.

[@averyalexander2303]

@@packerbrewerbuck Oil coolers don't normally have fans because, assuming the primary cooling system works as intended (unlike his), the conditions which could overheat the oil (sustained high RPMs under a heavy load) would also mean lots of airflow from driving at a reasonably high speed. Stock vehicles won't overheat the oil at idle or while driving at 10-20 MPH, but his car obviously does. Just like a coolant radiator, the airflow while stopped and at such low speeds wouldn't adequately cool the oil cooler by itself, a fan would be needed in his application to ensure that the oil cooler always has good airflow regardless of speed.

[@RicardoRamosRetrocomputacao]

Air-cooled engines usually have an oil cooler. And I believe that for correct cooling, large spaced aluminum fins are needed. A solid block of aluminum will only hold heat for so long. As space is limited, I believe the solution would be sealed copper piping to conduct heat to an air radiator at the front of the vehicle. It is not necessary to fill the copper tube with any gas or liquid, just ordinary oxygen will produce a heat conduction reaction within it.

[@volvo09]

Put a big fat oil cooler on it next

[@cohocarl]

A majority of the heat is in the head/exhaust port area. Cooling the cylinders helps, but the head needs some sort of cooling.

[@ReneSchickbauer]

Next step would be to slap on a fuel/oil heat exchanger that puts some of the heat from the oil into the fuel that's about to be burned in the engine (just like in an airplane). Requires a fairly inefficient engine that burns a lot of fuel. Fortunately, it's a Lada so that particular feature comes pre-installed from the factory.

[@Hydrogenblonde]

Try cleaning the cylinder barrels with acid before pouring in the aluminium. The rust and crud on the cylinders would act like insulation. You need to remove that.

[@dave161141]

At first glance, I was expecting the molten alu to explode. Then realized, the block was pre-heated. They were lucky.

[@jimmyguy428]

The cylinder head needs some sort of cooling too. The head has to deal with a good portion of the combustion heat, as well as the exhaust heat.

[@anatolklops]

By pouring such aluminum on this block, you certainly did not get good adhesion and thus heat dissipation. In addition, the ribs you welded did not increase the surface area that much compared to the factory cylinder surface. Just look at a 400cc air-cooled motorcycle engine, you need 4 times as many fins as it has. In addition, as I mentioned in the previous video, you must use an oil cooler with a possible second circuit with an additional pump pouring oil under low pressure in a large amount to the top of the head, so that it spits back into the bowl and receives additional heat.

[@bernardflood8289]

Greetings from Ireland. Very interesting. How about an external oil cooler. How about making a big stirling engine to run a car, they did experiment a bit with this idea in the US back in the '70's.

[@1977massey]

Drill holes through the aluminum between the cylinders and add scoops to direct the airflow through the engine with a fan for idle purposes

[@thedarkknight1971]

Old aircooled motorbikes were Air & Oil cooled, so, as well as fins on the cylinders, there was an oil cooler/radiator... This might help keep temps down 🤔😏 😎🇬🇧

[@bobbofly]

Maybe pre-manufacture the aluminum cooling fins so you can have a higher number of thinner fins that stick out further with more surface area. Bolt them together with spacers in a stacked configuration & set them into the poured molten aluminum before it solidifies. Remove the bolts & spacers used to hold the fins together after the metal cools. Presto! also weld/solder fins to the valve cover & oilpan.

[@busyguy7479]

this was a nice try very interesting , if u had more cooling fins on block that could have helped and maybe a oil cooler external . maybe nitrogen pumped into the block or head , anyway u had fun u guys never fail to entertain kudos to u all.

[@jimbillyjenkims]

Man, those lada engines can take a beating. You should apply the fins directly to the cylinder walls and inner surface of the head just like air cooled engines do by design.

[@Skogsmullemeck]

Try using a big oilcooler + coolingfins on the oilsump

[@brandonyork4430]

You and team work like oil mechanics congratulations keep up good job

[@konfyoused]

Needs an external oil cooler. Might also try circulating something through the head to keep the combustion chamber cooler. Maybe seal off the heads coolant passages at the head gasket surface and use the water jackets to circulate the engine oil through as well.

[@mr.dahliaking.202]

Only in Russia and countries similar to it like Lithuania, Latvia, Romania, etc. you would find a state of the art exclusive repair autoshop that you would think would be only settled in the middle of a city or something, but actually as you step out of it a few feet, all the broken down slums with dogs tied to fence start to appear and the environment transforms to the stalin era lol In my country where I live same thing, we have this amazing new shoping center that is the size of a football field, and then 10 meters away from it a wooden shack probably 120 years old where a baba yaga still lives lol

[@SPAZTICCYTOPLASM]

The hottest part of an engine is the head, it needs someway to radiate the heads. Look at a vw aircooled motor, the top of the cylinders of a lot bigger fins than the lower. and the heads are aluminum and even bigger. You also need to cool the oil and run more oil through.

[@ncjohn3429]

You guys should make your own core box and pour an aluminum block of your own installing sleeves etc...

[@vincentrobinette1507]

place an electric fan where the radiator normally goes, just to blow air on the fins welded to the side of the block. Next, install an oil cooler, to keep the oil temp under control.

[@Christdeliverme]

I think you were on to something about prepping the cylinder surface a bit better before pouring. You need to find the components that get hot and add surface area to that. Rocker cover for instance. Think about the surface area of a radiator, welding a few large fins won't do very much. Maybe try brazing a bunch of CPU heatsinks to everything 😊

[@Foxstar1387]

bigger oil coolers with fans on the oil coolers. A big rad type fan would help push air over the motor too.

[@whitesapphire5865]

How about an oil cooled engine? Or how about an advanced gas (not gasoline) cooled engine? Or in other words, how about grafting in an air conditioning unit to cool an engine, instead of liquid - feed the refrigerant through the engine block and head? On an entirely different tack, how about taking a crankshaft, cutting it in two, turn one half through 180 degrees, weld the two halves back together, then modify the rest of the engine to time up the modded crank? Then drive it! Or for a slightly wilder ride, cut the crank and turn one half through 90 degrees and repeat the same process? Just a few ideas!

[@screener545]

so filling the block with aluminum, reduced the surface area, but you increase thermal transfer because of the metal. but in the end it was basically the same issue because there was still a lack of cooling. the best would have been to somehow weld all the fins on from a radiator. just pack the cylinder wall to block with radiator matieral, hell even steel wool would work, something you can blow through that is metal and has tons of surface area. Also the retstriction will assist in thermal transfer. The main consideration here, is temperature difference. as temperatures get further apart, the rate of thermal transfer increases. so 5 degree item and 20 degree item is slow transfer to the 5. but 5 degree and 200degree is very quick in comparison. So the motor will get hot quickly, but with a calculated surface area it can level out like a thermostat (that thermostat changes depending on ambient, this is why air cooled motorcycles over heat in extreme heat, as they were not designed to operate in those ambient temperatures)

[@MikeBlunt2]

keep in mind an air cooled engine tends to run much hotter than a liquid cooled one not only that but most air cooled are oil cooled as well

[@off-gridoutbackaustralia]

Put a heatsink on the head too and use a transmission cooler to cool the engine oil

[@aaronzack14]

Rebuild the top end and build a triple expansion steam engine. Having issues with heat? Perfect.

[@theblackjack297]

Definitely add an oil cooler with its own fan

[@TheMrDarius]

A small diesel engine that is running away but to keep it cool have liquid nitrogen flow through to cooling passages.

[@nickyalousakis3851]

add molten aluminum to the cylinder head as well.

[@jeremypike9153]

Increase the surface area as much as possible with fins while keeping the mass as low as possible. If you look at the jugs of a motorcycle engine the fins are long and there is only enough mass for the sleeve in the cylinder and the fins.

[@yambo59]

An air cooled engine must be designed that way from the ground up, properly designed air cooled engines such as say an old VW beetle have all kinds of cylinder fins, oil cooler and specially designed sheet metal shrouding to direct air through the cylinder fins along with a massive engine driven fan to make it work.

[@hempev]

I see a new post here and think "Time for another Crazy Ivan!"

[@kristiansolstad9068]

need thicker and larger / longer fins and, more of them in a closed tunnel om each side with a serious fan putting tons of airpressure trough it to take as much heat as possible out. and measure fin temp as well. And yeah copper does transfer heat better. Gold is the best. tho a bit expensive ;) I expect copper will put enough heat into the walls to warp and distort them and possibly jam the pistons in place. May need to do it without pistons and hone sylinder walls after adding the copper and fins. Look at how heatisnks for giant amplifiers >2kw are stacked in a tunnel with fan at each end. Closing off the outside im a tunnel means ALL the air from the fan need to pass the fins and cool them instead of as now most of the air runs away from the engine. Keep in mind air pressure will go the easiest way

[@tOxIc_TrEaSuRe]

make a radiator with big tubes, connect the oil and cooling systems and run oil in everything.

[@Energikar]

Put aluminum vanes through the engine between those cylinders and have the fan blowing through there..

[@ollieprevett7984]

hook a turbocharger up to the cooling sytem to pump air around at high velocity

[@Miles7955]

Maybe putting the standard cooling fan back on the engine might help.

[@hinspect]

Transmission oil cooler adapted to engine oil. We cool X-Ray Tubes that way

[@DOCTRJ]

Drill a few more smaller holes in the block and make the aluminum fins bigger! 😁😎

[@foreverendeavors6210]

Fins gotta go all the way against the cylinders, the blanket of aluminum is the problem

[@rickymoats3915]

Direct the airflow out the side of the fenders

[@rickyosterfeld]

Use a big turbocharger as the fan to cool the inside of the block

[@blackriflex39]

you need a hood it will run cooler also shrouds will help direct air flow.. id like to see how this works at speed

[@tuscaderofour]

Pump the oil through an external oil cooler.

[@VoVilliaCorp]

I support using copper next time, it'll sort of be like a cpu heatsink

[@andrewbarnard3229]

Oil cooler? Remote filter mounts for additional capacity...

[@wiedietie]

That was aLada heat 🔥🔥

[@kolinevans9127]

This certainly wasn't a failure , consider melting the aluminium back out & making seals @ side but run the same oil as the engine through & around the cylinders then to a radiator or just copper matrix to run your fans on, just coil up enough copper pipe for your 'radiator' ?

[@jmptaz]

How about take out the grill add a an ac converter and a home ac unit to blow colder air across the engine

[@DOCTRJ]

FINS ON THE CYLINDER HEAD, AND BIGGER FINS!! 😁😎👍

[@zed91]

Big oil cooler & nicer and more numerous fins.

[@UpVoltageOverclocking]

Cars like a Porsche with air cooling have a lot more oil in the system and an oil cooler

[@ZoltánAntalLepold]

Maybe can try to make a block out fuly of aluminium and ad fins to thet!

[@aaronmartin6989]

Maybe next time weld a huge fan onto a hood to extract more heat

[@Choober65]

How about OIL cooling? No water, just use the sump oil to cool the engine by pumping it through the water galleries too.

[@holotrop11]

or to wire heatpipes around cylinders and then to BIG passive cooler on roof 👨‍🔧

[@ArT2Oo0]

What happens when you replace engine coolant with freon?

[@torso99]

some oldschool sports car had exhaust cooling system... the exhaust lit cooled the engine

[@mungmungie]

You definitely achieved 107% success in the abuse of a Lada engine! 😬 Definitely needs some air scoops and maybe use the radiator fan in there somewhere.

[@caseylee3350]

Run twin carburetors but one 100% nitro and one fuel! Separate pedals! 😂 advice the timing just so!

[@kavonsmith7265]

Add a oil cooler

[@aberakadabra1285]

Oil cooler 👍 I am surprised how well the aluminium works to exchange heat.

[@lupulflamand5673]

And this is how the Vlada (the Volkswagen beetle of Russia) was born.

[@Jamalsneed44]

Hey can a car run with the exhaust connected to the intake like a closed loop???

[@ryokufox2281]

Empty out a radiator and use oil instead of coolant

[@ryanjosef]

maybe try a really large oil cooler with this?

[@levelflightvideo]

Add a huge oil cooler.

[@hackfreehvac]

Oil cooler for sure

[@shaneshane1379]

Drive through mud puddles really fast to cool it.

[@alexanderpiedrahita1645]

Here’s an idea, remove out the car disc brakes and calipors and replaced them with like jalapeños motorcycle brakes

[@RitaElaineHeltonBarker-uz4sz]

Maybe in the winter it would be just fine

[@johnmorton7577]

Copper oil pan with cooling fins

[@johnw3379]

Make a huge oil cooler

[@Franco_FC]

Test with OIL COOLING please

[@kingquasar9]

Try extra oil. Bigger oil pan maybe?

[@jamesmiddleton8128]

Try an all oil cooled engine!

[@phonker9339]

hi can you do sharp camshaft in home conditions

[@michaelhart7841]

U need stronger fans with more air flow might help

[@BlueShadow125]

use gallium instead of coolant

[@dennis-nz5im]

Would require a heating system, insulation on the hoses and a constant flow of heat and/or a sealed up radiator that will not freeze up.

[@dennis-nz5im]

Remember the frozen reactors on Russia subs . If you shut down the metal cooled reactors they can’t be restarted

[@utforskaren3031]

supplement with an oil cooler

[@kano8474]

Giant oil cooler!!!

[@JUDGERAMBO]

Add a large oil cooler

[@86Rommi]

What if you replace coolant with oil 🤔 oil in engine and cooled with oil...

[@bullbutter9699]

USE THE RADIATOR , FILL IT WITH OIL, AND IT'LL WORK !!

[@plxton]

So you guys can do this to this engine and it's fine and my Mercedes has had two engines with German engineering and it's gone again... what are these made from?!

[@dar3726]

Hi! Put a big oil cooler on. It.

[@madamfloof2249]

An oil cooler would help.

[@informediatech-bruno5766]

Coming soon, 2 stroke lada😅

[@dimitar4y]

now I want to see what happens if you try to cool the engine with liquid nitrogen :D

[@james13914]

2 stroke lada engine?

[@NGPCO.]

DUCT TAPE HEAD GASKET

[@pinkiepie1656]

It would drip out pretty fast from the heat and pressure:)

[@duanemyhre]

Oil cooler is the ticket….

[@Yogenh]

Need an oil cooler that would fix it

[@bullbutter9699]

Try it again, it can be done I'm sure.