Ep. 7 My Strength Training to Boulder 7a

[@andymork]

You just came across my feed, watched the whole thing, very informative. Was shocked after the video to see you had less than 1k subscribers. I absolutely promise you if you keep at the KZbin thing it's inevitable that you'll be successful; your content is extremely well produced and you should be proud.

[@domkolarova]

Hi Andy thank you very much for your kind words. I am glad that you like my videos and find them useful. :)

[@ImpressionismYAY]

Wow! Very glad the youtube algorithm graced me with your video. I'm not planning on getting into climbing, but it's always bothered me not being able to do pullups at all. This video is incredibly informative and gave me lots of ideas for goal setting - thank you!!

[@miataqc8763]

If you've never tried it, I would encourage you to give it a shot sometime. I used to be active and at some point focused my attention towards streaming video games for a few years and once I tried climbing for the first time my whole attitude changed. I don't think I played video games for a few weeks straight after that when it had been an everyday thing. Now climbing is my main passion. It is incredibly humbling to realize how hard it is, but it gives you a fire inside to want to get better at it because it is so enjoyable. And for someone like me who finds it hard to get into the gym consistently, climbing is so enjoyable it's easy for me to get to my climbing gym a few times a week and you get a great workout + cardio from it. You don't have to take it seriously. But it is a really fun hobby to get into. I like to call climbing a calisthenics puzzle.

[@marks3440]

Really enjoyed your video. For me personally I’m discovering that my limiting factors are mobility, hamstring strength and keeping body tension - and by that I don’t mean core strength, but actually being able to think about pulling hard with the upper body and pushing with the lower at the same time. I like to include deadlifts and RDLs in my workout and also try and maintain body tension when doing other isolation exercises as much as possible. Good luck in 2023!

[@louisamann9168]

really well made video, and good on you for having such a good work ethic & attitude towards strength training & climbing :)

[@federicocastangia5379]

I love your application in training

[@Derriereduck]

video is much wow very cool PS those barbell pistol squats are metal as hell 🤘

[@domkolarova]

Haha that made me laugh! Not sure how applicable this is to climbing but they are definitely my favourite exercise :)

[@tapichu]

Wow! From 110% to 135% BW is massive improvement! In six months I only managed 5% 😅

[@Ivan_Salov]

From my own experience: this way of one arm pull-ups training with driving your supporting hand farther away does not work well. Here's why: one arm pull up has quite different technique from two arms pull up and from what you're doing now. It engages your torso muscles in a different way too. That's because the position of an elbow alters, the angle between a shoulder and front of a front of a chest is much smaller (about 90-100 degrees for regular pull-up vs. 60 for one-armed version). So it also will involve chest muscle into work. So yes, you need to do push-ups or dips, I'd say dips are preferential. And the best way to train one-arm pull-up is to imitate the movement itself, so your supporting rubber band must be fixed either under your pulling arm or right next to it. And you vary support amount by changing a band strength, not a distance to it. And yeah, for some people like me it just works to simply work on weighted pull-ups when additional weight come to 60-70 percent of your own, it becomes pretty easy. Anyway, it's just my personal eperience, good luck!

[@domkolarova]

Hey thank you for taking time to write the comment - I will look into the suggestions!

[@johnwesely]

@@domkolarova you definitely would be better off attaching the counterweight to your harness. Resisting rotation is a huge part of the movement and even a few pounds on the other hand is enough to make that a non issue.

[@266dmartin]

I think youre strong enough for 7a... working tecnique is my advice. On rock.

[@Miura.Powers]

That's the usual answer for training, but, as someone who is way stronger than the grades he climbes ... i agree. Holy smoke, you're strong OR your area is ridicules sand baged. I love training for the sake of training. Keep crushing!

[@maddhamstr]

Oh that feeling of being strong. Love that too. But at the same time you get really frustrated if you cant apply your strength on a route. I think the strength-technique balance is a holy grail that every climber should focus on. Good luck at finding yours!

[@domkolarova]

Hey, I totally agree with that - it’s about finding the balance and I definitely haven’t found mine yet. Sometimes I feel like strength is not translating so that’s something that I will focus on.

[@boidinktwistie4389]

you're smashing it!

[@SimonH1111]

This is such a great breakown

[@rickanderson1913]

Your progress has been amazing. Really looking forward to the next video 👍

[@domkolarova]

Thank you for the comment, I tried hard to have some progress so glad it’s worked! :)

[@rickanderson1913]

@@domkolarova You had a good plan and stuck at it, you deserve the rewards! Keep it up 🙂

[@markotomasevic8028]

A tip on front lever training - I did my frist consecutive two FL raises after being able to do a pull up with 1x +40 kg (with 88 kg BW). I wasnt even training for the FL specifically.

[@vintagemetal]

A front lever only counts if the arms are completely straight

[@billking8843]

If you can work out that hard and recover in time for your climbing sessions, go for it!

[@billking8843]

I'm the wrong side of 60 so I need to pace myself on everything. I need to stop my climbing sessions before I get fatigued and have to take a whole bunch of days off lifting.

[@DrSenorFishTacos]

Great video. Quite inspiring as I'm doing a lot of conditioning work too. Try to avoid flailing your legs when doing your pull ups and lock offs.

[@domkolarova]

Good tip thank you 😊

[@ryanericksen1223]

I enjoyed the content, I just want to say I am trying to progress my front lever as well . I have used bands to help get the full muscle engagement sensation for the full lever as well as the correct posture and form ,though there’s no way I can hold one for long without them. It has helped with form for the easier progression of the lever. I still do the easier progression but it has seemed to help.

[@sanderwong2288]

Good work and good video

[@artofopening]

This is an awesome video. Super strong!

[@6996Gunslinger]

tip for front lever its more in the arm strenght if you can do toes to bar the core doesnt need extra training it maintains itself by just climbing after that

[@lucadellasciucca967]

Someone inform her to put the resistance bend close or even under the pulling hand in the one arm pull up exercise p.s. great commitment and great exercise choises

[@theboredblueberry]

Impressive drive 💚👊🏻💨totally jelly of your tenacity 💯👊🏻💨💨💨

[@perikleskarageorgopoulos3130]

Great video. Thanks for inspiring us to keep training 😊 May I suggest a setup to train pinch strength. Cut a piece of wood 9x7x2.5cm. Glue sandpaper on all four 2.5cm edges and drill a hole in the middle of the 9x7 face. Put cord through the hole and hang weights off it. That will give you a 9cm and 7cm wide edges to pinch. You can do normal sub 7sec max hang sets. It is a fantastic antagonist (extensor) but also works pinch and flexors. As others have said, you are plenty strong for Font 7a but hey there in harm in getting stronger 💪

[@domkolarova]

Thanks for the great idea :) I have now purchased the lattice pinch block otherwise I would use your tutorial. Thanks :)

[@mattiti8523]

Cool content. Trying to train for 7a too but I struggle with the time commitment. Good luck hitting your goals in 2023.

[@domkolarova]

Good luck to you too! 😊💪

[@megankeily4858]

Climbing is a specific skillset and the best way to train it is to climb. I know you acknowledged this but I feel like you'll be a megawad if you just climbed more. You have all the strength you need ❤

[@JJpunk434]

make video for exercise to expanding wrist

[@davidthomas1424]

Inspiring 😉 thank you. Hope your house gets as chalky as mine!

[@mattward5010]

you should check out "palm cooling" put that term into youtube

[@eyehatemyself303]

i’m always surprised at how weak my one harm dead hangs are 😭

[@marielaibarra7477]

Great video ! Super well explained ! 👍 I started climbing 3 months ago and I don't have much strength in my arms, looking forward to try this out ! 😄 Any advice on training my crimp ?

[@domkolarova]

Hi Mariela, I am glad you found it useful, thank you for your comment :) Climbing will definitely make your upper body stronger just by going to the wall a few times a week. I would say as you have been climbing for 3 months, I would leave the crimp strenght training until you have been climbing for 2 years. This is because your fingers need time to adapt and just by climbing you will improve your finger strenght. After two years (if you are 18 ) you can get on the finger board without too much risk of an injury if you do it properly. Patience in this instance is key to injury prevention:). I have been climbing for 9 years so my fingers are ready for this kind of work. I hope that helps and good luck with your climbing journey:)

[@mikalauer2300]

You stronger than me 😬🙄❤️

[@jaredanwyl3686]

Many coaches think grippers are useless except as a warmup tool, and pinches (if remembered correctly) are a slow improvement process. However, this is a good pinch video, kzbin.info/www/bejne/pYCydXmplqeKpsk

[@DougDysw]

Any advice on setting up a workout frame/cage like urs?

[@domkolarova]

Hey I will do a video explaining it as someone else has requested too, it will be easier to see it properly :)

[@sebastian-ez1dj]

as someone who boulders 7b+ pull ups are not as beneficial compared to max hangs. as someone who is already strong i’d recommend less pull ups and more hangs.

[@domkolarova]

Hey thank you for the comment! I am starting to think that too. I was really focused on strength in my past few training cycles. One of the reason was that I am shorter than the average climber and I think if you are shorter you need to have something else that you can do well, either flexibility, or super strong fingers, power, very good technique etc to find alternative beta. Smaller people are often working in a wide box so I though extra strength won't hurt!:) I agree with the max hangs though, I think more focus needs to be on the fingers at this stage.

[@MartinDlabaja]

Ahoj. Jaký máš názor na názor, že kdyby sis dala pauzu od lezení vevnitř/venku a místo toho šla doma na sílu + hangboarding, byl by postup rychlejší? Moc hezky udělaná videa, fandím!

[@domkolarova]

Ahoj dakujem za comment :) Pre mna ja najdolezitejsie liezt vonku lebo vsetky svoje ciele mam vonku. Hrozne rada trenujem ale este radsjej leziem vonku tak tento system my vyhovuje :)

[@jeanpaulorl]

I would like to know what lvl u are on the moonboard? Have u tryed it? I am not nearly as strong as u but i am climbing v7-v8 on the moonboard 2016.

[@domkolarova]

Hey, I haven't really tried the moon board but will try at some point and do a benchmark session :)

[@Buffalo93]

Oddly enough, even this long explanation doesn't seem to justify learning one arm pull up. Is it cool - yes, will it help in reaching e.g. 7b - probably not.

[@cedric7049]

I quite agree. The exemple shown seem to show first and foremost that the guy climbing and almost falling has really good finger strength (they don't move at all) and the move in itself doesn't really seem like a one arm pull up (I'm not able to do a one arm pull up, but the move he does, going a little bit up with the arm already bent quite far way is something I already did when losing feet).

[@darkarie]

WHO'S GONNA CARRY THE BOATS!

[@domkolarova]

Haha! Got to love a bit goggins psyche 😂💪

[@darkarie]

he is the best motivation

[@DonPrus]

The best and most efficient training for climbing is climbing, up to 8a exactly 🤔 But it is your way and if you really like workouts only you will decide how to train 😉

[@ernestopiovesan1229]

I don't think that's complete true. If you are not flexible, climbing won't give you flexibility and probably that person won't improve on slab and hit a plateau. If you don't have explosiveness, dyno are gonna be hard. I got injured on a 7A cause I never train fingers and my tendons gave up.

[@tiffanyho6587]

It's been so inspiring watching your progress! What a cliffhanger too - no doubt your hard work is paying off. You mentioned you were going to link the video to Lattice for front level progressions, I'm assuming it's this one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pKWVdYKkadGjbJo&ab_channel=LatticeTraining

[@domkolarova]

Hey thank you for the lovely comment! I am glad that you are enjoying watching the journey :) I totally forgot to add the video so thank you for the reminder! :) It's the one you tagged.

[@sparklyananas7205]

How tall are you?

[@domkolarova]

160 cm and negative ape index if that helps - basically T rex arms 😂

[@Mike-i4b4l]

Daft....

[@spacecowboysucio]

Climbing demands ur soul . C,mon strong

[@amoral_frog]

7a is not about the strength

[@davidwhite1314]

Shite climbers train so hard these days, I drink 20 pints a night