ep324 - oil paint rendering for aircraft part 7

in which there is leaking, streaking, and greasy angst.

[@FinsburyPhil]

This series really merits the title of a masterclass. I will return to it again and again. Thanks Will - I love all your stuff.

[@gartsherriejunction4643]

Hey Will. As I have said before, "love your channel and witticisms". Unlike other channels you have a strong mastering of the english language which adds to your content. Keep the content flowing. Regards Mike

[@andysmith6711]

Good stuff man, as usual. I'm glad you said at the very end you were going to look at some stuff up front for that bottom engine cowling. I was looking at all that delicious nastiness going on, and my eyes were drawn to the relative cleanliness of that area. One would think that the area under that big ass engine would be the recipient of some weeping and seeping as well.

[@robertclassicconstructiona1830]

A great series for sure , I don't think you realize the vast knowledge I've learned since I started watching your videos......I finished my first bust and I think it's absolutely awesome , I'm very proud of myself ........and appreciate the lengths you go to , to explain and go over every detail ........I look forward to furthering my skills and learning more as time goes on. Thanks for keeping it real , as it took me seemed like forever to work with the oils , I thought I was doing something wrong , but this series taught me it takes what it takes. Awesome!!

[@danielkennish5012]

An excellent series, much to take on board and take inspiration from. Hats off to you for all the time you take to make these videos...

[@andyjones6995]

Another excellent video pal. Please keep chattering away when you do your vids. I love your style and the personality you bring to your videos. As always plenty of things I'm going to try on my models. cool stuff.

[@semersemer2293]

Hello will, thank you for these videos. I have been looking for something like this for a long time. What you have created here is phenomenal. I watch your videos regularly and I learned a lot from you. This has brought me further. Thank you for all the work and effort. Greetings

[@francisthecooldownroad342]

even my wife recognises your voice.

[@christiaanrobertson8887]

Thank you so much for this series of videos Will. They have really inspired me to give OPR a go.

[@StudioLaMagica]

Hey, my first steps using these techniques are not a bad start. Thanks Will.

[@2H80vids]

A great, in-depth series Will, thank you. And "spoodge" is a wonderful word; never hear anyone else use it. 😁

[@kevbee8325]

Great series... thank you. !!

[@georgetaylor5482]

Oh how I love the nonsense, that was a great series, I can try some of that on the bottom of my car engines, would look great.

[@xaviercarcopino5417]

Thanks again 🙏🏼

[@jamesvozar1]

Stunning work Will.

[@sidnzrael2433]

'Weep'n anah' Seep'n...' just love it. Another great Question&Answer too, Mr WillP. I too like to 'walk away', return and see what my previous work has to say to me...You know you are going to have to display this wonderful model in such an undignified way, as per your ref. photo, eh!!! Anyway Will, have you considered using the likes of Liquin, with the artist's oils? I look forward to blending/staining, sooty-ness weathering using Tube Oils... This Oil Paint Series has been fantastic, informative, encouraging and I'll most certainly be using Tube Oils in weathering 1/64 scale NZR models, here far down under. Quality Sable Brushes, once cleaned after use (appropriate thinner), washed in soapy water and rinsed can be dipped in a good quality Leather Saddle Oil (Neatsfoot) which preserves and nourishes the hairs and keeps the inside of the ferrule from drying out (also forces any paint residual out too). Downside, thoroughly clean out brush with Turpentine/Mineral Spirit before painting session. Much Love too.

[@sylvainplante9882]

Come on Will, where do you get all your knowledges about chemicals, business company and everything you know? I’ve been following your channel since a few years and I love you for that! Cheers mate!

[@sylvainplante9882]

About Loew-Cornell ultra round no2 paintbrush replacement; Kingart max round 9020-2 is pretty much the same.

[@Arno_L]

Masterful job!

[@RaduB.]

Noo!... That's not all she wrote... 🙂 This is a series to be watched again. Hopefully we'll also get to see the whole model at some point.

[@reconmodelsvaughn469]

Will please try VMS Varnish HD matt or any other they will make you believe in magic.lol it's really a great product..I use a lot of vms products and love them .

[@jeremymillan]

Yo! Nice oil techniques... but where's Alysha at?

[@franklinlewis6059]

You will be showing the end result, won't you?

[@travis_thompson]

For your kiwi question asker, hobbycity online, in Auckland and now Wellington have Gunze, or imo SMS clears are amazing and can be purchased online through franklin hobbies.

[@Maddog-nb9vu]

I recently used Alclad lacquer clear flat and waited 24 hrs for it to dry. Upon using Mig or AK enamel panel line washes (I like the effect over dull coat) it started eating through the Alclad clear flat down to the gloss coat underneath. However weathering using oils with with mineral spirits had no effect on the Alclad flat coat. So what flat coat should I use to avoid the enamel panel line wash from eating through the flat coat? Should I just be using Acrylic flat coats before any panel line/weathering to avoid this? If so what acrylic dull coat do you recommend? Keep up the great work. Lots of excellent info for us novice modelers.

[@barpfoto]

lolclad klears are enamel. any good clear that's actually lacquer will work.

[@Maddog-nb9vu]

Ahh. That's why. I thought Alclad was lacquer based as the label says "Alclad II Lacquer" with enamel not anywhere on the label. A bit misleading. I will still use it as a final coat as it is still a great product.

[@barpfoto]

@@Maddog-nb9vu their labeling is terrible. "lacquer" is part of the brand name and the only clue that the gloss black and klears are enamel - other than smell - is the listing of mineral spirits in the fine print.

[@lukasgarage956]

With the amount of ammo they were firing they literally poured oil into the ammo bay.....imagine the heat produced the oil was for cooling and prevent jamming.

[@xaviercarcopino5417]

Hi Will great video as usual. Too bad it is already done with this series. I would really encourage you to go for a try with the VMS oil expert that help to mix the oils and make them perfect for a perfect painting way to use them. No publicity or whatsoever but this product is great! It goes Matt, gloss and semi gloss but makes the drying time really short

[@jordanelder2627]

you didnt say your preference for a MATT ACRYLIC

[@barpfoto]

tbh i almost never use one but i keep some ak ultra matte around.

[@Ebergerud]

Will - long time fan - hope you won't the open query. Can anyone recommend a good WWII oriented plastic modeling group on Facebook? Finescale Group Builds have been a great low key diversion, but half the people on their board are being dropped - me included. Need something new. I'm experienced - figure a B level modeler. Doubt I'll teach anyone much, but not too old to learn. I do know military history.

[@barpfoto]

smcg. scale modelers critique group.

[@Ebergerud]

Thankee much. Been watching Rinaldi's new stuff - your presentations are more concentrated - which is good. And I think Rinaldi and yourself are on the right side of history. At least for me - solvents are out so water based acrylics/pigments and oils sound good.