Epoxy Resin Sign-A Silent Tutorial

This is the procedure I use to make small epoxy resin signs. Most of the process is shown here in chronological order.
-The base is 3/4” MDF.
-The epoxy resin base-any epoxy that rests on the MDF-is 0.200” thick.
-Any of the epoxy resin details-those pocketed into the epoxy resin base-are 0.100” thick.
-The process for machining the pockets on the details was to V carve the perimeter using a 60-degree 2 flute V cutter, then pocket out the area using a 1/8” 2-flute flat end mill.
Designed and manufactured using Fusion 360’s 2D engrave operation for the V groove toolpaths and 2D pocket operation for the clearing.
SPEEDS/FEEDS:
-60 degree V Groove-10000 RPM, 100 IPM, 0.100” DOC.
-1/8” Flat End Mill-18000 RPM, 60 IPM, 0.100” DOC.
Epoxy is Superclear Tabletop Epoxy.
www.superepoxysystems.com/pro...
Colorant is Supercolors Epoxy Resin Color Pigment:
www.superepoxysystems.com/pro...
TIPS:
-First and foremost…Make sure your machine’s table is level in all directions; The epoxy will flow downhill overnight and leave a deficit of epoxy on the uphill side of the pocket.
-Make all facing passes except the very last one .040” above the true top of the sign to leave a protective layer during the 12 day process.
-If the sign has a lot of fine detail, as this one does, do the final facing pass 0.020” above the top of the sign and use an orbital sander to sand off the last bit until the details look right. AVOID OVER-SANDING.
-Cure each pour 24 hours before machining the next feature.
-Once the liquid resin is seated in the pockets, pour extra resin on top for 3 reasons: 1) The resin shrinks during curing. 2) It gives air bubbles a place to rise beyond the top surface of your sign and 3) any dust/debris that settles on the resin before it cures will be machined away.
-Use clear packing tape on the entire bottom surface of the sign so drips won’t stick to bottom when you flood the sign with a layer of clear epoxy.
-Before pouring the final flood layer of clear epoxy over the sign, be sure to wet the entire side surface of the sign with epoxy so the flooding epoxy will flow evenly down the sides and not leave drip marks.
-Before pouring the flood layer of clear epoxy, rub epoxy into the top of the sign to ensure epoxy fills any scratches from the sanding process.
-On all epoxy pours, be sure to LIGHTLY torch the surface of the wet epoxy several times at 3-5 minute intervals until you don’t see any air bubbles popping on the surface. This does 2 things: 1) bursts the bubbles at the surface and 2) makes the resin less viscous (thinner) allowing the air bubbles to rise to the surface more easily.

[@starhawke380]

Im impressed not only by the artistry of this, but the patience it took to do so many small jobs over so many days.

[@MM-tz6md]

Thank you kindly!

[@paulburch2278]

absolutely fantastic. Thanks for giving us a peek behind the curtain. This was a very detailed piece, and the documentd process in the description is thorough but I'll have to re-read and re-watch a dozen times.

[@MM-tz6md]

Thanks for the compliment. Yes, it IS a pretty detailed piece, due to the complexity of the NH Seal. Every color is done the same way though-V carve, then pocket (or vise versa, it doesn’t matter). The trick is to figure out which color to do first, second, third, etc.

[@holzmoewe3246]

Man, that is a great idea - "milling and filling" 🙂 Though time consuming depending on the number of colors. But I will try my logo with only 2. Great stuff

[@theIntuitionist]

Great video, great technique. thanks!

[@stuartsherman5975]

Absolutely well done. Thank you for sharing.

[@MM-tz6md]

Thanks!

[@drkline69]

Great video and great instructions! I've been looking to try some epoxy CNC jobs and this answered a bunch of questions that I had. Thanks!

[@RoyBlumenthal]

Mindblowing! That's excellent craft!

[@MM-tz6md]

Thanks much-I appreciate the compliment!

[@rtroiani]

Dude, I'm drooling over your dust boot! Lol

[@MM-tz6md]

I’m pretty happy with it-$26 on Amazon: Upgrade Version CNC Dust Shoe for CNC Machines with 3.15″ (80mm) Diameter Motor, Hose Adapter Outer Diameter 100mm (3.94″) a.co/d/aYoXEUO I just added a rubber plumbing reducer so I could insert/remove my shop vac hose whenever I need to: Supply Giant 6I57 Flexible Pvc Reducing Coupling with Stainless Steel Clamps, 4 x 2 Inch, Black a.co/d/3xnORpR

[@meederr]

Beautiful work!

[@MM-tz6md]

Thanks for the compliment!

[@jezzalinko]

this looks amazing well done and great work for sharing

[@MM-tz6md]

Thanks!

[@chrisj9008]

Amazing results.

[@MM-tz6md]

Thank you!

[@johnmay371]

Beautiful work

[@MM-tz6md]

Thank you so much!

[@jwhitestone]

I got so much out of that, Thanks!

[@stormtaker63]

That took awhile to make, but it was well worth it

[@r.c.d.creations7402]

WOW!!!!!!!!! came out awesome!!

[@MM-tz6md]

Thanks!

[@Scott_A]

Awesome sauce 👌

[@MicrobyteAlan]

Nicely executed 👍👍

[@MM-tz6md]

Thanks!

[@willgilbert6259]

Wow, thats allot of work, but an amazing result!

[@MM-tz6md]

Thanks! The work is really all in creating the design and the toolpaths. The actual machining and epoxy resin process goes relatively quickly, except for the full 24 hour cure time between each pour.

[@ritchschultz8454]

Very nice!

[@MM-tz6md]

Thanks-I appreciate that!

[@Merennulli]

As someone with a similarly complex state seal, this appealed to me.

[@MM-tz6md]

Almost worth moving to Alaska, New Mexico or Alabama! 😁

[@richardmceachern1]

Wow, Mark, That looks great, I am impressed. (From Richard Mc)

[@MM-tz6md]

Thank you very much. I appreciate it. As you probably heard, I’ll need your help-directly or indirectly-to get phase 2 of this project completed.

[@richardmceachern1]

@@MM-tz6md Contact Mark D, he has a thumb drive for you.

[@MitchellsWoodwork]

Thank so so much for the detailed carve process, plus the excellent tips in the description. The only thing I just can’t wrap my head around is tying up a machine for 12 days. I can’t imagine how doing so could produce anything profitable. Or maybe that’s not the point? I’d truly appreciate your take on this from a business perspective. Thanks!

[@MM-tz6md]

I’m not really tying up a whole machine for 12 days per se-more like tying up part of my 4’x8’ machine for 12 days. I still get other work done using the G55-G59 work offsets on other areas of the table. Ideally, if I had a business making these, I have multiple different epoxy signs going simultaneously, where I’d do all the pocketing for each color first thing in the morning and the epoxy resin mixing and pouring after that, then spend the rest of the day doing the design work for upcoming projects along with creating the toolpaths for the next day’s pours. If there was any accompanying woodworking associated with this (like in my army wings video), I’d probably do that at the same time as the pocketing, first thing in the morning, before pouring any resin. I think volume and piggybacking the processes would be required to make any money doing this. Oh, and a dedicated machine if my bread and butter was making other woodworking stuff on a CNC router. -Mark

[@MitchellsWoodwork]

@@MM-tz6md excellent response brother. I'm currently using a Shapeoko Pro XXL but I've got a Onefinity Elite Foreman on order that should be here late summer. I'm thinking of doing as you said, use one strictly for epoxy and the other for everyday projects. Thanks again!

[@MM-tz6md]

Awesome ! I’ve been using my 4’x8’ machine for 3 or 4 months now and even with multiple projects going simultaneously, including a 30” tall law enforcement badge, I haven’t exceeded the machining envelope you’ll get with the Onefinity Foreman.

[@MitchellsWoodwork]

We’ll I’m back again to rewatch this video. New question: In a multi color project like this one, how do you determine the order of each tool path / pour?

[@MM-tz6md]

Well, ideally, I try to do all the background stuff and the outer “walls” first, then I add the details in the order that they make the most sense, in a way that I can minimize the intricate pocketing around already-finished features. For instance, if I have a green leaf that splits a yellow beach into 2 pockets, I’ll pocket the beach in just one big pocket as if the leaf wasn’t there, then pocket the leaf into/over the yellow beach. This is much easier than doing the leaf first and then making the beach in 2 pockets on either side of the leaf, if that makes sense. The only other consideration I try to follow if possible, is to pocket darker colors into lighter colors. For example, if I have a 2-color project…say green and white…I’ll try to make the base white and pocket the green features into the white base if at all possible.

[@waynecarter4799]

Amazing work, well done to you and a total credit to your patience

[@MM-tz6md]

Thanks-I appreciate it!

[@nvr4g3t]

Very nice! I like your work. I intend to get a cnc to do similar style items. Two questions - 1. Do you find it necessary to space the work piece every time? I've watched other epoxy CNC videos and they cut the next later as soon as one layer is dry without resurfacing. 2. You mentioned in the comments I believe that the entire piece of mdf is encased in epoxy. Was that just by the final pour? I'm wondering how you kept it tabbed in

[@MM-tz6md]

Thanks for the compliment-I faced the top of the work between each pour on this project just to keep the load on the tools even when I pocketed and V-carved the next colors just because this project had SO MANY colors that the actual top of the piece would have been buried pretty far below the epoxy material if I hadn’t. On simpler projects, I just save the facing till the last color is poured and cured. As far as being “fully encased” in resin…well, that’s not entirely true. When I machine the deep channel that I use to pour the epoxy that makes up the sides of the project, I leave about a 0.030” floor on that channel so the MDF core is still connected to the surrounding MDF and isn’t just clunking around in the middle after machining the channel. This extremely thin floor also prevents the epoxy I pour into the channel from leaking out the bottom of the channel and gluing the project to the table of the machine.

[@rickmccaskill7888]

Thanks for sharing. Absolutely amazing work. We’re you using Vcarve to create the cut files?

[@MM-tz6md]

Thanks for the kind words! I try to use VCarve only for complex 3D files that Fusion 360 can’t handle-VCarve could probably do this job pretty well, but for me, VCarve Pro isn’t very intuitive to use-I’m really used to the more-industrial way CAM is handled in software like MasterCAM and Fusion 360, as opposed to the “arts” approach that Vectric software seems to use to deal with CAM. Not saying one is better than the other, just that I’m more familiar with the industrial approach to CAM. IIRC, I either downloaded a vector file of the state seal, or downloaded the seal in some other format and converted it to a vector file. Then, using Fusion 360, I cleaned everything up and I separated all the geometry into different pockets by color. After that, I just assigned 2D pocket and engrave toolpaths to each of the different color pockets and ran them day after day till the job was done.

[@emostorm7]

Wow

[@mccauleysm85]

Killer result! I've had a project similar too this in my CNC project list for at least a year😂. How long did you have to wait from pour to machining? Seems like this would take at least a week to make and tying up the machine for the whole time.

[@MM-tz6md]

Thanks! I’ve tried machining after 12 hours curing time and found that it doesn’t machine as cleanly as it does when I give it a full 24 hours-it seems just very slightly soft at 12 hours. This is with SuperClear tabletop epoxy. Other epoxies may be different, I just don’t have experience with other brands.

[@mccauleysm85]

@@MM-tz6md thanks!

[@theslawek]

Thank you so much for the "to the point" tutorial. What machine controller and software are you running? Been looking to step away from WinCNC.

[@MM-tz6md]

Hi! I’m using Fusion 360 on a self-designed and built 4x8 router controlled by a Masso G3 controller. I’m very happy with the Masso controller; It’s a stand-alone controller (requires NO other computer), it starts up instantly and is easy to set up/run.

[@TheFeist77]

new subscriber and fan here. What is your setup? sorry if I missed a link or info, I am new to all this.

[@MM-tz6md]

Hi, Thanks for watching! I’m using a 4’ x 8’ CNC router that I designed and built myself, though any CNC router or milling machine will do. The spindle is just a Chinese 2.2kw spindle with manual tool change. The CNC controller driving it all is a Masso G3. I use Fusion 360 for the design work and for creating the toolpaths. All the tooling details should be in the video description.

[@papado72]

You are able to create your colors using the guide that comes with the Supercolor Pigments?? I always have issues with creating colors and creating consistently. You do awesome work!!

[@MM-tz6md]

Thanks for the compliment! I didn’t realize there’s a color guide with the Supercolor pigments. Of course it’s tough to get consistent drops of pigment, but my technique is to weigh the part A and part B together, before mixing, then put the drops of pigment in the part B till it’s the color I want, keeping careful track of the number of drops of each color I’m adding. Once I like the color of the part B, I’ll mix in the part A, stirring for a couple minutes. When it’s pretty well mixed, I’ll transfer it to a new cup and stir a little more for a total of 5-6 minutes. The key to consistency is the record keeping-I take that total weight of part A and B, and, using a spreadsheet, I figure out and record how many grams of the resin there was per drop of each pigment color. For example, if there was 300 grams of resin/hardner and I put in 20 drops of red, then it’s 15 grams per drop of red pigment. I do this for all the colors. With this information, I can recreate this color (or get pretty close) later by doing the same thing in reverse-Say I have 150 grams of resin/hardener next time…I know that at 15 grams per drop of red, I’ll need 10 drops to get the same shade. I also save the hardened resin in the bottom of the cups to use as samples so I can compare the color of the new batch to the old sample. I write the project name with a sharpie on the hardened samples so I can find look up the right formula on the spreadsheet.

[@papado72]

@@MM-tz6md Thank you for sharing this information. Keep up with the awesome work!

[@PSS_1]

1. Could you tell me if you polished it with a grinder or sandpaper after milling? After all, milling marks remain after milling 2. What did you pour out at the very end to make it so shiny? is it a colorless resin?

[@MM-tz6md]

After machining I sanded it down so all the tool marks were gone. I didn’t worry too much about the sandpaper scratches because the clear epoxy coat you see me adding in the end fills in all the minor irregularities. It self-levels and is really shiny.

[@PSS_1]

Could you also tell me whether, for example, there is a problem with the contact between white and blue - resin/resin

[@MM-tz6md]

@@PSS_1 Absolutely no problems with adhesion between colors because the contact surface on the old color gets machined (roughed up) a little bit during the pocketing for the new color.

[@PSS_1]

do you know if such a resin can be used for plexiglass instead of wood or MDF...?

[@MM-tz6md]

I don’t know, but here’s the manufacturer’s website: www.superepoxysystems.com/shop/

[@phrozen4life]

I have a Question, When You were surfacing the excess away, what was the depth setting you were using, seems less than .01

[@MM-tz6md]

The in-process facing passes were…0.030”(?)…above the intended top of the completed part. Sometimes the in-process facing passes seemed heavy, sometimes they seemed light, depending on how much excess epoxy I had puddled on the top for that particular color pour. In the end-the final facing pass using the 2 1/2” face mill-I think I left it maybe 0.005” above the finished part height as an allowance for hand sanding the tool marks out and fine-tuning down to the final part height.

[@adrianlachlan1452]

i do a lot of timber engraved resin inlay using solid timber....question I have...what do you coat the back with and do you have issues with cupping as the epoxy shrinks as it fully cures..I have this on solid timber pieces but once cured i plane then down to remove the cupping...as i use a thicker base then you there is room to level it

[@MM-tz6md]

I generally don’t coat the back, though on rare occasions brush on coat of flat black paint. I’ve found that if I use 3/4” MDF on round pieces, cupping doesn’t seem to be a problem. I HAVE run into cupping problems when I use 5/8” MDF on long, narrow pieces where I heat up the resin a lot during the “bubble removal” phases. I’m not sure if the MDF thickness or the shape of the piece or the heat or a combination of these are responsible, or whether the resin just shrinks a bit during the cure and that’s just the way it is.

[@adrianlachlan1452]

@@MM-tz6md cheers mate ...thank you for your reply...i use 30mm timber so dont normally have an issue but occassionally if the depth of the resin pour is over 10mm it can pull the timber in as it cures after hardening...cheers 🙂

[@PSS_1]

Thank you very much, I'm asking because I'm also planning to do something similar. I noticed palinkas in similar videos. Is it necessary?

[@MM-tz6md]

I’m not familiar with “palinkas.”

[@PSS_1]

@@MM-tz6md sorry, I translated it wrong - it's about a gas burner, is it necessary?

[@MM-tz6md]

Yes, it is necessary so the air bubbles rise to the top and burst. Otherwise, the epoxy will be cloudy with tiny bubbles.

[@sergek4661]

Отлично получилось. Сколько времени занял проект?

[@MM-tz6md]

Спасибо. Прошло около 10 дней. Мне пришлось ждать 24 часа, чтобы каждый цвет затвердел.

[@sergek4661]

@@MM-tz6md спасибо

[@dnelsongb]

Doesnt it take 24 hours per color to cure?

[@MM-tz6md]

Yes-I like to get 24 hrs of curing time between colors. Probably could do less, but 24 hrs. ensures no gumminess during machining.

[@ritchschultz8454]

Is that on MDF?

[@MM-tz6md]

Thanks for the compliment in your other comment. Yes, all the epoxy resin fully encapsulates the top and sides of an MDF base. The only exposed MDF is on the back, against the wall when hung.

[@PSS_1]

Can I buy yellow epoxy?

[@MM-tz6md]

I don’t know-I know you can buy CLEAR epoxy and add yellow pigment to make it yellow. Links to the epoxy and pigment I use can be found in the video description.

[@PSS_1]

how to get such a blue non-uniform color? Is it a matter of the epoxy resin itself or the dye? kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYGsdIejacd-q6s

[@MM-tz6md]

All I’ve ever done is use liquid dye to make solid colors, but in the example video you linked to, I think Chris Powell says he used 2 different shades of blue. I imagine he mixed up one shade of blue in one pot, and the other shade of blue in another. Once they were thoroughly mixed, I suspect he poured both blues simultaneously into a 3rd pot without stirring them together. When he poured the 3rd pot into the cavity in the sign, the colors interacted with each other in the random pattern you see. Others do something similar using colored glitter flakes mixed in with their colored epoxy.

[@kmik4466]

Be cooler if you hand carved it.

[@MM-tz6md]

Heh heh…Cooler for you maybe. Definitely not for me! ;)

[@PSS_1]

and in processing, probably not very healthy because it's chemistry

[@MM-tz6md]

The beginning of your comment was cut off, but I suspect it was in regard to not using gloves when mixing/pouring the epoxy resin. The instructions from Super Epoxy Systems DO say to use in a well-ventilated area and wear eye protection and protective gloves. My work area is well-ventilated and I am wearing eye protection,and though I really should be wearing gloves, my method of mixing and pouring keeps me 100% out of any kind of contact with the resin or it’s components. Of course I DO don the gloves when there will be contact with the chemicals, such as when hand wetting the pieces prior to flood-coating them. My official recommendation to everyone is to follow the manufacturer’s instructions and wear protective gloves when working around epoxy resin.

[@marcodeoliveira9933]

Incredibly beautiful, but not practical, you'd have to charge a customer $1000 for each of those, easy way to do it would be to use a UV printer to print right on the wood, cut it out and then a epoxy over it

[@MM-tz6md]

Thanks, and yeah, you’d probably have to have dozens of these going simultaneously to make any money doing it (or have an epoxy that cures and machines well after an hour or two). So far, I’ve done ~10 of them, all for, or at the request of, friends and family.

[@DomingoLiu]

@@MM-tz6mdit can be practical but it Depends on how you set up your process, quick curing epoxy plus registration pins would essentially allow you to make batches, combining pours can also reduce the wait time. another way to do is by using a puzzle piece mold where you’d CNC cavities that you’d plug or remove to your piece so you can add epoxy. This a great proof of concept, it’s beautiful, great job!