Honda Element & CRV Alternator Replacement With Diagnosis

This video covers the removal and replacement of an alternator on a 2004 Honda Element with a 2.4L engine. This video will apply to all Honda Elements as well as CRV's with the 2.4L engine.
The video also covers the diagnosis of a bad alternator on these vehicles as well as validation of the repair.
If you're looking for a complete guide to Honda 2.4L alternator replacement, this is your video.
The best place for answers to your automotive questions: www.ericthecarg...
Check out the ETCG Blog for the latest info: www.ericthecar...
Check out my ETCG1 channel: / etcg1
Thanks for watching!
Camera: Brian Kast & Eric Cook
Discussion about this video: www.ericthecar...
Links
Honda Alternator: Part #(Remanufactured): 06311-RAA-505RM
Link: www.hondaparts...
Hose pliers: www.jbtoolsale...
10mm T-handle: www.jbtoolsale...
12/14mm Long wrench: store.snapon.c...
Long 1/4" Ratchet: store.snapon.c...
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Stay Dirty
ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy®.

[@smilecraftdentistry7809]

don't know what it is with Eric ..but ur videos are very refreshing ..content is awesome☺

[@SGDeGalvez]

its his radio host voice. He should apply around for some shit..like mens warehouse and such.

[@FreshKicks4545]

deepu krishna I agree when im stressed I watch n uwsaaaaaaaa

[@davidstone3780]

I swear I owe you and Sue from 1A Auto a beer lol. I have a 2004 and your videos have helped me with almost everything on that car.

[@AussieGinger]

Came home from work, cracked open a beer and saw this come up in my sub box. Reminds me of the good old times! Loved it as always Eric - I hope you had a great holiday period.

[@dylankinch2735]

Rian John u must work all night or your in a different part of the world a bud. Here i just got to work 4 hours ago and wont be havin a beer for another 6 or 7 anyways. Lol have a good day drink one for the boys that are wrenching as we speak

[@AussieGinger]

Dylan Kinch yes I’m from Australia and I get home from work around midnight also. Glad you were able to enjoy yourself by the sounds of it

[@TurtwigFan]

As being someone with very minimal knowledge on cars, I would love to learn mechanic work from someone like Eric. He is knowledge and seems like he'd be super chill and work with your learning curve. Great videos, Eric!

[@walterf5502]

The KING of Honda Auto repair. My daughters 2002 CRV has over 400k miles. Runs great. But things do need to be replaced. Replacing her water pump and Steering pump. Removed the tensioner and the steering pump. Was able to remove 5 of the 6 bolts for the water pump. But that one bolt closes to the alternator are hard to reach. So, I was thinking of loosening the Alternator just a bit so I can use my 10mm ratchet wrench for that last bolt. This video was of great help. Hopefully she doesn`t need an alternator soon. It`s her first car, but she loves it so much kept it all these years. It`s a Tank. Her current car is a Civic.

[@jblyon2]

I went through 3 re-manufactured alternators in a car, then broke down and got an OE one. It's been in the car for a decade now. The others lasted a year at most before failing.

[@jamespn]

You make it look easy. Changing alternators on CRVs is no picnic.

[@2008gloucester]

your right James, alot more involved!!

[@dannynica7480]

I changed on my CRV 2005 and it took me like 3 to 4 hours, no joke. But it takes me time because put everything back with anti seize paste and brush any rust, and clean lol

[@Bushiesautomotive]

Did mine in 20 minutes

[@mds2465]

You got that right!

[@adamn7516]

@@Bushiesautomotive You did it on your CRV in 20 minutes? Did you only have to remove to the same things Eric did on his Element?

[@spelunkerd]

Watching one of these makes me love my old beater cars. As much I pour fuel into them every week, I never need a shoehorn to install parts. I was waiting to see you inspect the B+ wire, but there is so little room you wouldn't be able to find it until well into the replacement. It's so nice to see another stay dirty repair, Eric.

[@ericthecarguy]

I don't normally bother with that. I feel the battery voltage tells the story good enough. If there was a problem with the red wire, it likely wouldn't run for long and have much lower voltage. But that's just me. I don't fault anyone for doing things differently. Thanks for the comment.

[@guitarstitch]

I'm glad you're keeping that thing running. I have a pair of Elements and have found these to be the most unique and fun vehicles to own. I have dreaded the alternator going out, but it looks somewhat easier than the starter. Glad to see I'm not the only one that struggles with that silly serpentine belt on these things.

[@cocopopchav]

“There’s always so much hope in automotive repair...isn’t there” 🤣🤣

[@16valveBravoSpoonz]

i watch these videos as if i own a honda element, i dont and never will. but man are these videos so satisfying. top job eric!

[@johnoldonekanole602]

Now I remember why I stopped working on my own vehicles. (63-Dodge Dart 225 slant 6)You men with the terminally black dirty finger nails are woefully under appreciated.. My gratitude to you and your professional band of folks. Thanks for your vids. May your knuckles heal without infection.

[@jamespagano9781]

Awesome video ! It helped with my wife's CR-v alternator replacement . The only thing is on the CR-v you have to remove the upper radiator support , power steering reservoir , and one cooling fan in order to carefully wiggle the alternator out to replace it .

[@cgrscott]

Thanks for the little heart to heart talk about making your time and effort worth while by sticking with genuine Honda Alternators.

[@stevemeyer9772]

Just the good diction & proper descriptions of parts and procedures make this guy worth it...but the fact that he didn't recommend removal of half the front end is even better!

[@grindking3913]

So glad you're back. Wish you were local. I'd totally get to keep my hands clean.

[@RodolfoSantanderYei]

This is the type of videos that brought me to this channel. Please keep at them.

[@drewdavis4614]

Your great, I have been working on all my stuff all my life, I'm 60 and these videos help a lot thank u bro 😊❤

[@joshperez525]

Dude THANK YOU. I have to do this on my 2003 honda crv and have seen so many videos where they take everything apart to get to the alternator. This is definitely the simplest yet most informative method I have seen. Thanks man.

[@Ratlins9]

Thanks Eric, I’m retired and the money I save watching your diy videos certainly helps, God Bless.

[@jarrettbarnett7656]

Love all the K series content. Would love to see a VTC actuator replacement as it affects lots of late model Hondas

[@Minmaximus]

Thanks for the great video. My '06 Element needs a new alternator. Prior to watching this I knew next to nothing about the inside of any car. But now I actually feel like I can replace it myself! Thanks for the inspiration!

[@TheChrisgralnic]

Hey Eric I’m a mobile mechanic I emailed you a long time ago when I first started wrenching. Thanks for replying. I just installed a new alternator on that exact application. I used every single different combination of tools i have including the extras that I keep on board that were my dads for weird situations and could not get the bolt off near the fan motor. I use all professional tools and found it funny that alternator beat me. I removed the rad support and fan. Did it with lots and lots of room ;) .

[@Volusiaev]

A Power Probe along with a Load Pro are my two most favorite electric diagnostic tools! They both compliment each other.

[@johnterpack3940]

Just had the charging system on my '03 CR-V die today. Was planning to replace the alternator myself until I watched this video. As typical with "modern" cars, there just isn't enough room for my giant mitts to get in there. But thanks for the tip about fuse #15. I'm headed out into the freezing wetness to check it out now. I'd much rather replace a 15 cent fuse than a $200 alternator.

[@twosheds918]

Eric, you do the best auto repair videos around. Your removal of the PS pump was a good move and I wished I had done that when I R&Rd the alternator on my 06 EX-P. It diagnosed exactly like yours - straight battery voltage with nothing above 12.7v. I replaced the alternator with an aftermarket not having heard your caution against them. Ugh... We'll see... I am currently looking at a 04 LX that has intermittent starting problems and, on the surface, it would seem like a bad alternator except for the fact that charging voltages appear to be good - mostly. I am suspecting bad brushes because the car is right at 200k miles and it looks like the original alternator. My experience is that the basic alternator is good but the brushes get worn out and barely touch causing poor/intermittent charging. I have ordered a 31105-RAA-A01 brush holder and "hope" that would solve the problem. We'll see. Anyway, Bravo, Eric, and thanks again for giving me a sanity check.

[@kuba2410]

for some reason i really enjoy watching your videos and that although i´m a mechanic and getting dirty every single day.

[@fastinradfordable]

me too

[@jackwood8307]

Man living in the rust belt sure does take a toil on y’alls cars! Don’t know if that contributed to the alternator failure but the the corrosion is every where on that engine. Thanks for another great video!

[@commodore665]

Good to see some repair videos back Eric ,

[@barnf192]

Eric does the best Honda Element videos. They have helped me numerous times.

[@VivzGuzman]

Eric thank you so much, as a women I watch your videos so guys can't trick me when I need to fix something in the car. They are very very very helpful and easy to understand.

[@Trustthapo]

Just did this on my '06 with 131K miles. Thank you so much for the step-by-step. You make it look so easy! Even with my nimble hands I had a god-awful time getting those lower mounting bolts in. I'd actually recommend threading those into the alty first and then threading them into their mounting points and THEN doing the big top bolt. I tried doing the top bolt first and it was off juuuust enough to where I couldn't get the bottom two in. (fuck Honda for making the space by the idler pulley so tight. and zip tying the wiring harness to the original alternator. wtf guys)

[@TechTimeWithEric]

One of the issues I've seen with aftermarket alternators, specifically with the Honda Odyssey, Ridgeline, and V6 Accords is the quality of the solder used inside the windings. On those engines the alternator is mounted directly above the exhaust manifolds and causes the solder to melt and the windings come loose and destroy the inside of the alternator.

[@anthonyclarke7081]

just done my 09 accord idtec, very similar job and really not bad DIY'd in about 2 hours. This element engine bay with the PS pump and coolant reservoir actually looks more awkward than the 2.2 diesel, didn't think that was possible. Nice job.

[@Ottonic6]

It's really nice getting alerts for ETCG videos again... Anyway, Wish you would have showed how to test the amperage to make sure the alt. is sending the rated amount when under load. Probably another video... Thanks Eric

[@ericthecarguy]

No need. Ohms law. Not to mention the difficulty of accessing the positive cable coming off the alternator. Remember I had to remove the power steering pump to get access. If it's producing 14v at idle with all loads on, then it's good. At least that's the way I've always done it and in 21 years that method hasn't let me down. Thanks for your input.

[@jasonmejia4951]

Just put one in on a 2002 CRV. I took out the fan; it was a tight squeeze. Also, the 1/4 drive ratchet helped a lot on the bolts underneath.

[@wallyg.2409]

The good ole days. Welcome back Eric ! Excellent video !

[@clintonhinote9724]

Thanks for the videos. I rarely comment on videos but yours are very informative and to the point and I really appreciate the time and effort you put into these things. I never tackle a repair project before I look for one of your videos.

[@osmevi]

Super video step-by-step and tips Eric, thanks for sharing, on a customers '05 the alternator has no more carbon brushes and the rectifier diode plate was half burn out, as you know here in Mexico we repair everything, I bought new diode plate, new carbons, took it with a specialist to change parts and will go to pick it up in some hours to assemble everything back, regards!

[@TorqueEffect]

I just changed out an alternator on my 91' Festiva that has an Escort GT engine. Had to drop it out the bottom, that was a bit of a pain, but not as much of a pain as it is with an improper tensioner bracket (v-belt, belt is tensioned by the alternator) Could only get the belt on by removing the water pump pulley to get the belt on all the pulleys. I just bought a used alternator off a fellow Festiva guy who was parting out one of his, for $30 shipped.

[@NoWr2Run]

Great vid. Sir but I have a few tips of my own. Whenever I know I'm replacing a part especially on vehicles of age, I spray the bolts nuts with some type of penetration oil a few days before I tackle the job, if I can. I use Knock R loose GREAT STUFF, smells bad though or Kroil.Also put anti seize on bolts that go back into anything aluminum, zip ties are great invention.

[@DeckApe12345]

Eric, watched a couple of other videos where guys removed the radiator or bracket above it. Found your video and love your way %100 better. Thanks for the informative and entertaining video...

[@LeroyHeeneyWine]

Just accomplished this task on my Galapagos Green ‘04 thanks to this video. Thanks!!!

[@houseology101]

Tackled this today. I can only guess how much time you saved me. Thanks for a great video!

[@michael.sierra]

Glad to see you use an OEM alternator. The junk alternators from the parts stores, whether new or remanufactured, are defective or die prematurely very frequently. Doesn't matter which chain you buy it from they all get their stuff from the same few companies and the quality is just awful.

[@electronicsNmore]

Great video. You need to pick up a set of needle probes.

[@drivewaydiyer6504]

Old school ETCG! Brilliant!!

[@markb6295]

Just did this yesterday & it went surprisingly well...I was dreading the re-install but it went faster than the removal. I was able to use a 1/2 inch ratchet on all 3 alternator bolts..... my socket must've been the perfect length & outside diameter

[@philp.3978]

Glad to see a good old repair video again.

[@AcuraAddicted]

"suppose we should reconnect that electrical connector, eh?!". Greetings from Canada, Eric! :)

[@ericthecarguy]

Hello Canada!

[@xxRamD3yruxx]

lol, i heard that too

[@artemisthefrenchie]

Freak yea love elements Eric I went outside and gave mine a big hug

[@ttiwkram]

Thanks, Eric! I was looking at the alternator placement in my '04 CR-V (poor design), and it looked to me like moving the power steering pump was the way to go -- but other posters pull the front crossmember and passenger side fan, which seems like way too much work. I'm glad you confirmed the PS approach works on an Element; I hope it works on the CR-V as well. It's pretty tight in there.

[@ttiwkram]

Finished the job tonight. This approach DOES NOT work on a 2004 CR-V 2.4L. You MAY be able to get the coolant reservoir out by removing only the PS pump, but the alternator's not coming out unless you also remove the passenger side fan. That requires removing all the mounting bolts from the upper radiator support (front crossmember) so you can push the support out of the way far enough to slide the fan out. Three hours to do what should have been a 20-minute job. Thanks, Honda!

[@stevepuddlejumperpilot6062]

starting this job tomorrow on my old CR-V. Your video really helped. Thank you for uploading it.

[@ilameer628]

I'm in the same boat, all the oem alternators I find are $800+. Anyone find something better?

[@cumbis123]

I have watched many and this is by far the best video on the subject. Great job, cheers!

[@jackpatteeuw9244]

Glad to see you back to your roots ! Plus, I love your commentary style ! For "wicked expensive" I would not have accepted that alternator !

[@stevesteve5700]

glad to see you back to your roots Eric

[@nathanield.4527]

Make sure to do that voltage check that Eric showed at 1:19. At least for the green/yellow wire. I changed my alternator to find out I had no voltage in the green/yellow wire. Problem was the fuze#4 (10a ACG fuze) located under the steering wheel. Changed the alternator when I should have just changed the fuse. Doooooohhhhh!!!

[@dustyroadsrider]

Thanks for a very good video. 02 CRV alternator going out and "estimate" at the local shop around $900. Quite a motivator to spend the time to do it myself. Sometimes I wish I had fingers like E.T. but I'll make due. Thanks again for the video.

[@CarAudioInc]

Love it. Let's keep these early 2000s hondas running till the world ends!

[@stigonutube]

super clear camera footage.

[@aarondostou3888]

Holy smokes the two 12 mm’s under the alternator were brutal. Took me six hours to swap it

[@DeusVolo]

removing the cooling fan and top 4 core support bolts allows you to tilt the support forwarding that way you dont need to remove the P/S pump

[@endlessrecursion9523]

Thank you so much had to replace my dads alternator and you saved the day!

[@hugh007]

I stopped using rebuilt(?) alts and starters about 30 years ago. No quality control at all. I wound up doing them over again. Sometimes twice. An economical alternative to a new OEM part is your salvage yard. Many parts are the same across manufacturers lines and model year. The guy behind the counter can tell you which ones fit. Look for a later model/lower mileage OEM part. You may have to change the pulley, but they usually outlive the rebuilt several times. Thanks for the video

[@ajchien]

Oh man. One week too late for me Eric. I did my 03 element alternator last week. My auto tensioner pulley also went bad at the same time.

[@ajchien]

And you can replace the pulley separate from the tensioner if you go aftermarket.

[@mitsulancer91]

I used to always think eric was silly for mostly always using oem parts. Now that I have a newer vehicle I see why and almost always use oem. Even oil and filters. I have a wheel bearing in my near future and that is aswell gonna be oem. As eric said wicked expencive but well worth the money

[@Michael-fw5ef]

jakob simmons Go to a wreck yard and pull same part from same year and model car.

[@mitsulancer91]

Michael not many 2014 ford eacapes in any salvage yards around me and I wont put salvage parts in my vehicles. Tho is for the thought....

[@robertsitch1415]

Personally I find aftermarket parts are usually comparable or better quality at least with GM. Sometimes independent distributors sell oem for less.

[@monkeyCmonkeyDoo]

@@robertsitch1415 Tells you all you need to know about the crap that GM puts on their cars from the factory.

[@robertsitch1415]

@@monkeyCmonkeyDoo yes the quality of the wear items and plastic parts were the main issues some of my relatives had with GM cars made in the last few decades.

[@STSAndrew]

Just did this today to my element... You made this look so easy!

[@JosephClatterbuck]

"Now the patient is asleep, and we can go and remove that" kidney... err... "alternator."

[@PonFORDS]

Joseph Clatterbuck Hahahaha!!

[@axtra92]

PonFORDS really? Not even funny

[@DeadlyVoltsHD]

axtra92 I thought it was funny also

[@TheSleepyMechanic0524]

axtra92 it was funny. You just don't have the same sense of humor as the rest of us.

[@happy543210]

finally, i can start watching your videos again!

[@michaeld_68]

Lol. It might get zip tied back on. Zip ties on the level of Duct tape. Always there for ya. Lol!!!

[@InsideOfMyOwnMind]

Michael D That was kind of disappointing imho. Granted it's his car and he can do what he wants with it but I can find a place to put a zip tie without youtube. The part number for the part that broke and how to avoid breaking it in the first place might be better.

[@888johnmac]

zip tie FTW always

[@dunebasher1971]

The part that broke is a bolt that seized. As Eric says, the stub of the bolt is still there, so he was able to hook the reservoir back over it. There's no way to guard 100% against seized bolts.

[@michaeld_68]

dunebasher1971 OK ? I wasn't being critical of him ..I'm cool with the zip tie ??

[@hellishinc]

InsideOfMyOwnMind When you discover an affordable way of having rust/heat proof metal bolts let us know. Shit rusts. Drilling out a broken bolt is quite a ways out of context for this video.

[@ericwhitaker9608]

Loved the video Eric! Very helpful and informative. I'm really enjoying the videos you've been posting. I've always been a big fan and look forward to your future videos.

[@patrickoconnell9387]

Fuse 15 under the dash on my Element says it is for the LAP heater. Is that the right fuse you were talking about to check? What is the LAP heater and how does it affect the charging system? Thanks for the super helpful video

[@simonosullivan1660]

I so happy your back making repair videos Eric

[@leoraeina5148]

Hey Eric, Awesome KZbinr mate, Good to know that Brian Kast is back!! Hello from Melbourne, Australia. Fair Dinkum Mate!!

[@ericthecarguy]

Hello Australia!

[@landdon24]

Great stuff as always Eric. If nothing else, you've convinced me to not try this at home. The stress of not being able to finish a repair on my daily driver would stress me out too much.

[@ericthecarguy]

It's not that bad. I believe in you. #StayDirty

[@snoopdogie187]

Its really not bad. I recommend doing it on days where you can stay home for the day. I have done some tasks before work, so if you do do that, try to know what you are getting into and how long it will take, and then give yourself some extra time. A few times I've had to finish the repair asap because I needed the daily driver that day or in the morning, and I had to wait to get parts. The pressure is on then when you know you can't go out until its finished. It always works out though, just sometimes not like how you planned. Like I will be working by flash light to get done.

[@888johnmac]

yeah I hate working on the daily driver.. if it's the weekend / fun car & things are going badly you can just walk away for a few hours ( or sometimes close the garage door until next weekend )

[@lonwillis783]

Thank You for showing me how to replace my alternator!

[@slickrick3010]

Always enjoy watching these videos, glad you're back!

[@MarkfromNewYork]

good stuff! love these kind of videos. Years ago when I first found you on KZbin, back at your​ old shop, this stuff helped me so much when I had my Accord.

[@TimWrightDr]

We have a 2006 CRV - lovely car! One thing I found interesting in this video is that the key is on the same side of the steering wheel - even though the steering wheel is on the right in our car (New Zealand). Makes it easier to start by leaning through the window!

[@ericthecarguy]

That's likely because it's not cost effective to make 2 steering wheel assemblies.

[@blower1]

Watching you work is soothing......watching scotty work gives me a headache (and sometimes makes me cringe)

[@joeschmo4329]

Thank god I found someone who had the same idea I did to remove the power steering pump lol. Everyone else tears the front end apart

[@High_Tech_Mountain]

Glad to have you back. Even though technically you never left. Lol. Looking forward to future videos. Thanks for posting!

[@joseluisorozco9879]

Thanks for another awesome video Eric! I have a 2006 Element, best car I have ever owned. So I love any and all Element videos you create and share. Any chance you have a video on how to replace the Element starter?

[@pack5eastnorthport366]

Similar to CR-V? Pull the exhaust manifold to get enough room or work blind from underneath.

[@Sevalecan]

All that frustration and different attempts to try and get a fucking bolt off.... This is real life, thank you for making me not feel shitty for going through this EVERY TIME.

[@Tool0GT92]

More CRV/Element videos, I got an 05 CRV and your videos are great. I know you did the thermostat, did you do a waterpump video? Also what are your thoughts on the notorious AC issues?

[@cgrscott]

Very good, Eric. I'm getting ready to replace the Alternator on my 2001 Odyssey and I know your precautions you recamend on this Element alternator job can be headed when replacing my Odyssey Alternator.

[@georgea0731]

OEM alternator was over $500ish, you mention BBB sponsors, don't they make alternators? I'll let you know if the after market one gives out or holds up. Another great video. I did a Honda Accord 94 and it was in an easier place. Seeing it on that Element made me feel better.

[@zx8401ztv]

Smashing repair eric :-D, Alternators and starter motors get so much punishment, im supprised they last so long really. (13.8 to 14.2v is what i check for). Another problem with charging is after a starter has been replaced, the alternator high current live lead often bolts to the starter+, people don't always tighten things correctly.

[@ericthecarguy]

Indeed they don't. Thanks for the comment.

[@Slicknicksimms87]

That's funny I just replaced my alternator in my Ford Taurus yesterday and lost the bolt for the coolant reservoir and had to zip tie it lol. Car runs mint now, all within a couple weeks new starter, battery and alternator. 200, 000 miles on it now 200, 000 more to come.

[@gokartbuyer]

SLICKNICK 3.0l Duratec or 3.0l Vulcan?

[@Slicknicksimms87]

gokartbuyer vulcan

[@Slicknicksimms87]

Robert Burley don't be a douche I also did a full tune up

[@Slicknicksimms87]

Robert Burley yea ur a douche I think I have enough knowledge to know what a good reliable car is. That's why I have owned multiple. I could care less what u think dude. I save money driving my car.

[@Slicknicksimms87]

gokartbuyer exactly, the only thing I'm worried about is the transmission but it is well worth getting rebuilt when it does go out. It's strong now and I maintain my vehicles well.. il buy these cars all day I have owned a 02 and now I have a 06. For the money u can't find a better all around vehicle I paid 2000 for each one I've had and the only reason I've had to buy more of them is because people like to run into me and total them. Lol well a lady just ran into me head on a few months ago I destroyed her new car. My headlight has a small crack and bumper scratched, micro crack in grill. They almost totaled it. I got 1600 bucks out of it. So basically paid 400 for it and it's perfectly fine drive train wise. That's all I care about. Meanwhile fuck face over there is putting thousands of dollars in his pos brand new car. And still paying on it.

[@ThePugMonkey]

Hi Eric, I have thesame motor. I changed the starter motor by way of removing the intake manifold and I think I have messed up way I put it back together. There are some sort of butterflies in the manifold. Is there a correct way of putting these back together?

[@oilcan2787]

You make it look easier than it was 2 years ago when I put the aftermarket alt on mine. I hope it will be easier when I replace it w another aftermarket alt. At least its under warranty but my hands will still look like raw meat when I'm done. Some people never learn.

[@ferndog1461]

Thank you Bro , for reminding the public that CRV & ELEMENT share simliar parts & systems.

[@eldoradony]

Great video but you should have included a warning about the factory radio needing a code when the battery is disconnected. Many people are unaware of this and if that code is not known a trip to the dealer is costly.

[@kenn4243]

Just a suggestion - If you go to radio-navicode.honda.com/ it explains how to get the information necessary to get the unlock code and will allow you to enter the info. Submit the info and as long as you are the registered owner they will send you the unlock code. Ask me how I know? LOL

[@eldoradony]

That's great information. Sometimes its just simpler to connect a 9 volt battery to save the memory.

[@ericthecarguy]

Good point, sorry I missed that. Although all you'll need is the serial # that can sometimes be obtained by pressing 1 and 6 at the same time when the radio is turned on.

[@steveblackburn6889]

Fuse 15 seems to be for a LAP heater or LAF heater on later models, some type of O2 sensor. Is that what you meant to mention when you said check fuse 15 under the dash?

[@gruberhoffman]

Enjoyed the video and will have to watch it again. I have a Japanese built 2003 CR-V. With the engine running and no load I have a voltage 14..30. If I load it up the voltage drops to 12.30. The battery tests good under load tests. I am just not sure if this points to the alternator or the ECM. Can I rebuild the alternator with premium parts (bearings, rectifier, regulator and brushes) This way I have practically a brand new alternator apart from the shell and the stator at a fraction of the cost.

[@81mechanic]

You should do a whole series or nice video on the Power Probe. Great tool!!!!

[@antonia.5203]

It's also a good idea to, like Scotty Kilmer says, rev up your engine (around 2000 and 2500 RPM) and check the voltage and the amperage, with and without load. Since the alternator can't produce a huge amount of amperes on idle (otherwise the engine will strugle or stall), reving up the engine will help with this process of a good diagnosis. I'm aware that you didn't have so much room nearby the alternator, but what you can do is to check the voltage drop on the positive side and negative side (maximum 4% of the charge voltage, or 0.1V if the ground is going through the chassis) and you have to do this while reving up the engine. Why? Because of the Ohm's Law (Resisor = Voltage / Amps). Just my two cents. Nice video by the way. I wonder already what will be the next video's topic.

[@ericthecarguy]

If it can produce 14v at idle with all loads on like it did in this video, it's good enough for me. I know it will produce more when it reves up. Thanks for your input.

[@aychmorgan21]

Back to your roots. I like it!!

[@Jeepula]

Eric, my 2009 Bmw M3 alternator failed, it was B* too replace because of the location.. I went to autozone and they ran a rest on the car and found the voltage regulator too be bad.. Bmw parts sale the oem alternator for $1000, original part manufacturer for the alternator is Valeo, so i checked that and that was 400 dollars.. I did a simple fix by changing the voltage regulator for 65 bucks using valeo oe replacement.. My alternator was literally doing what your diagnosis was doing, charging around 11.5-12.5 volts with load on.. So before replacing an alternator, it is great too do some research and see if you can infact change the voltage regulator, the brushes on it literally was worn and hardly contacted with the slip ring of the alternator... You can even buy the brushes for 6 bucks on ebay oe valeo ones and solder it..

[@elidouek5438]

What does one do when they're in the middle of watching a fairmont project video and they get a notification for a new EricTheCarGuy video? finish watching or watch the new video?

[@ericthecarguy]

Feel free to watch as many of my videos as you like, whenever you like. ;)

[@16valveBravoSpoonz]

watch them at the same time ? ;)

[@InsideOfMyOwnMind]

You can't OD on the ETCG. Well...

[@funfunyo7523]

hey there eric my CRV has dc volts at 18v do you think i need to change the whole alternator or just the voltage regulator thanks