⭐Essential Derailleur SERVICE for Shimano CLUTCH⭐ 12, 11, 10 speed - XTR, XT, SLX, Deore Maintenance

[@p3happycat421]

Excellent presentation. Clearly explained, photography spot on, and instructions easy to follow. Great job, thank you for making the video!👍👍

[@LoveMTB]

You're welcome

[@bridg3burn3r]

Best clutch video on the internet. Well scripted and superb camera work and editing.

[@InCountry6970]

I agree with bridg3burn3r, this is the most concise and no BS explanation of this clutch maintenance procedure out there. You say what you need to say without a lot of side commentary. Thumbs up my man !!!!

[@gilzow]

OMG! Thank you SO MUCH for posting this! I've had my bike in the shop 3 different times due to the rear derailleur not shifting correctly. Each time they've said they're not sure what's wrong with it, and each time after about 3 or 4 rides, it started having issues again. I finally noticed that it shifted perfectly with the clutch disengaged. That lead me to finding this video. Followed it, and now the derailleur is shifting perfectly with the clutch engaged!

[@LoveMTB]

Yup maintenance that all Shimano derailleur need. Enjoy the butter smooth shifting!

[@lukehayward6161]

This is the best maintenance vid I’ve seen, I was told my derailleur was done as the clutch isn’t serviceable, pulled down it was full of dry shitty grease at 1 year old. Thanks mate it’s now good as new!

[@nickv3085]

Just re-greased my clutch using this video today and it was super easy thanks so much! Fairly new Deore XT 12sp (less than 1 yr old) and was practically bone dry….word to the wise, if you are having any issues with clutch, even if new, a re-grease will likely solve your issues. Also, I used the dumonde free hub grease as I couldn’t find shimano grease in stock anywhere, worked like a charm - FYI!

[@robertklare2716]

Thanks for that prefect video! It took me a while to find out, that the clutch is the reason for the bad performance of my chain! I spend hours to find a solution. With this video, it took me 15 minutes and it works like a new one! Cheers!

[@xtwosnakesx]

This video makes me proud to be a Shimano user

[@samuraichefboy1162]

This is a priceless piece of information. Just bought a new Trek Roscoe which has a clutch derailleur. The shifting was bad after a week's worth of muddy riding. I had dirt in the clutch. Now it's all good as new without a expensive trip to the bike shop. Thanks for this.

[@jimig399]

Same on 10spd deore systems as well. I'm also impressed with your concise tutorial. Thank you. I did know about my clutch (I read owners manuals on everything before I operate anything) and have maintenanced it regularly but you did reassure me that I am doing it right. You made a subscriber out of me. Ride on. 🙋

[@davidsamuels4246]

Super helpful! My XT 12 speed needed this maintenance after less than 100 miles. It's been a dry dusty 100 miles and a portion of it was at Cuyuna old mining facility full of red fine dust. Thanks again for the video guide. Finding the grease will be a chore I'm sure.

[@Mr_RichardH]

Useful?!?!?! That's bloody priceless. Thank you!

[@NPistolC]

Great video! Thank you. Worked a treat and really easy to follow.

[@alistairculey5308]

Damn right. Was close to order a New derailleur before i fell on this vid

[@HelmutBauer-k7b]

Your video helped me to repair the clutch within minutes.

[@LoveMTB]

Glad to help, happy trails!🤘

[@andypatterson530]

This has to be the best video on KZbin. I’ve been searching for ages. Thanks for the info

[@philippk2065]

Thanks a lot for this great video. No further questions left for my clutch maintanence now! Ride on, Buddy!

[@jasonrouse6912]

I had a problem with my clutch. Took it apart it didn't work. After an hour of trying to get it right. I packed it out with greece. Works like a treat now. My clutch is now heavier but shifts better. No more sticky clutch and dragging my drive chain on the ground as I pedal. I wish I found this video sooner.

[@SEKI14000]

Great video! I have tried a couple of different types of grease on the Shimano derailleur clutches. Park polylube 1000 worked well and seemed to last quite a while and Mobil 1 synthetic grease worked for a while but didn't seem as smooth or last as long as the Park grease.

[@alvinnieves590]

Very good video. I had the same issue at the end of last year with the derrailleur just not going back in place on upshifts. For some reason they are being shipped with very little grease from the factory, but fortunately the solution is easy. I used the usual green grease from Park Tool and so far its been working flawless. Plan on checking it before every big race though. The good thing about this clutch is that if it starts giving problems on a long ride, just stop, open cover, remove clutch and put in your pocket.

[@JurisKankalis]

Purchased a new XT 10 speed rear derailleur for abt. 30EUR on ebay - when it arrived, thought the clutch to be some sort of witch trickery technology (had never seen one before). However, seeing this video provided the elementary knowledge that it's much simpler than imagined - and can probably be serviced even without removal of derailleur from the bike. Also, just a week ago purchased an SLX 11 speed as we're building an 11x2 for my kid - and saw the listing in German ebay say something along the lines of "the clutch has been adjusted by a bike shop". What a lame seller marketing when these are obviously so easy to deal with. Thanks - and greetings from Latvia.

[@coolmuthapea]

I used mucoff grease on it 6 month ago and its still good! Was very notchy before.

[@TheJango997]

If this did not solve your problem with sticky clutch, you might have to go a little deeper. Try removing the cage, cleaning the spring and a pin that holds the cage. There are pretty good instructions in the official Shimano manual. It seemed to have solved the issue for me. I was really suprised to see some rust on the spring and a lot of dirt there too... and my bike is only 2,5 month old, so it seems the mechanism is poorly sealed or I was just unlucky, idk. Huge thanks for the video! It really helped me with the dissasebly even though it was not enough to solve my issue. Great explanation and camera work. Brilliant!!

[@m1muiz]

Excellent video. I can confirm the Park Tool 1000 grease works excellent as the original Shimano grease near impossible to find. Finishline Ceramic Grease DOES NOT WORK

[@LongPeter]

Perfect video, thanks very much. A symptom indicating you might need to do this is the derailleur not returning while the clutch is engaged. This gives you a slack, slipping chain. I had to clean the clay out of mine while away on a trip. Dry lube seemed ok as a stop-gap solution, but I’ll order some of the advised grease and redo it now that I’m back home. Some forums also mentioned that the clutch axel bolt is sometimes corroded. Look into that if the video instructions don’t solve the problem for you.

[@cedricheinrich2077]

Absolutely, the 12speed shimano deraillers suffer from bad waterproofing over 11spd, letting water in, the axle and the clutch needle themselves rusting even on xtr. Rather poor quality when you think 11spd was really good on that aspect. Can be fixed with lot of cleaning and rust removing, in some cases the needle assembly needs to be replaced if too corroded. Best is to open the clutch mechanism on a new derailler and lube the needle assembly with thin grease, grease the clutch band, and then pack the cover with grease even if it goes against shimano recommendation, worked on all derailler i dealt with. Any grease that isn't too thick will do the trick, note that it works well where i live where temperatures drop to a low 5°C at the coldest of the year (couple of days) and where we have a good 6months of very humid and hot climate, hong kong to be precise. If you live in colder areas grease selection maybe more critical but can't comment on this. Hope this helps.

[@bitumen83]

Thank you, great video. I did this, but I didnt take off rear derauleur from my bike. I just put it on smallest cog and then finish job.

[@travisreid1440]

Thank you for providing this video. It saved my @ss on a MTB trip. Followed the instructions every step of the way and now my shadow+ derailleur is shifting smooth!

[@buckroger6456]

Great video! So many riders don't know to clean the clutch out and often wonder why their bike isn't shifting that great.

[@h82fail]

Me! The creaking noise started driving me crazy before shifting is that bad. Edit: Nm my clutch is fine, its was the pivots that got super dusty and creaky on my xt 11s rd.

[@v1ncen715]

I just opened mine by curiosity after 3 years and about 12000 km.. It looks absolutely brand new, not a single spec of dust!

[@v1ncen715]

@@LoveMTB Yes it was always ON in the past, except when I need to remove the wheel :) Still some white grease in, probably the original one. I did not buy any replacement grease yet, but I see this can wait for me! This is on an old 27.5 FS trail bike I use for commuting, so lot of rain, but not that much dust where use it...

[@ratandjmt]

Thanks for the video. I'm pretty good with SRAM because of my bike but still learning how to work on Shimano thanks to my wifes Kona. Video was just what I needed.

[@ratandjmt]

@@LoveMTB Being able to actually work on it is a nice change from SRAM. With that said my GX is awesome. Keep up the great videos.

[@florihupf]

Man. Your channel is really really one of the best!

[@th_js]

Definitely

[@ironjim78]

Wonderful presentation ! I am Loving the fact of shared trusted information ! CHEERES

[@anthonyloftus1236]

Once a mystery, now all is clear. Makes knowing your bike so painless and interesting.. Thanks

[@donnovicki9771]

Excellent tutorial as usual. The depth of your videos doesn't leave anything to chance. Thanks

[@-phos-]

A good alternative grease is Dupont Molykote DX paste. It's readily available online since it's used in all kinds of devices.(think vending machines, printers, kitchenware, etc) It's designed specifically for high load sliding metal surfaces like in our Shimano clutches, it's resistant to water, and is anti-corrosive. You can get a 20g tube that will last 100 derailleurs for around $15USD.

[@stephenlang9770]

Thanks dude 🙌 I followed another video and after servicing My clutch wouldn’t engage. After watching your video I realised the orientation of the barrel wasn’t correct. Lined up the flat spot as you instructed and now all working 👍

[@rudozoltan]

Thanks for saving me, I though I broke the derailleur when i was removing wheel bc it stucked, turns out it was just rusty dirty and without lube, works like new now!

[@RossFinnie]

Perfect video, really nice and clear and easy to follow!

[@michaelscottboston]

Great video. I took mine apart and that plastic piece on the bottom of the screw was broken?! Not sure if I did that when I pulled it out-- but I have another part on the way.... I think I can actually just pull this out while I wait for my part....

[@betweenthepines4000]

My brand new SLX 12spd with than two months riding failed. I thought the clutch was shot and I needed a new derailuer. Thank you for the video! I had no idea it could be serviced unlike my Sram xo1 dh!

[@betweenthepines4000]

Serviced it yesterday. Very easy to do and works like new again. Thanks again!

[@g.fortin3228]

Awesome job here ! I just swapped off mine to M8000 and i will clean and service the old one as a spare now. Your videos are the most informative with details and it gives me confidence to do the service. Better than my Big Blue Park Book for details. Thank you !

[@jrusk303]

You saved me $120. Very nice video. Thank you!

[@SidiNic]

Waiting for the grease to come, my XTR is so notchy with alot of chainslap. Didnt know about servicing until your vid came up. Hope it works for me!

[@SidiNic]

Did the service, pretty easy. No more clicking and it is smooth again. What did you say about tension screw in the end? How do i know if it is tight enough? Thanks again

[@marie-theresebeckers1299]

Merci beaucoup pour votre vidéo. C'est très clair et bonne continuation

[@LoveMTB]

Pas de quoi!

[@johnnyk6906]

clearly explained and demonstrated. also very impress with how clean everything is with normal wear of the gear groups.

[@pangmenmtbadventures6972]

thank you so much for this video, its very helpful. i got my 12 speed and after 1 week i heard sounds that likes so tight same as your xtr. i try to open the clutch and put some grease then the problem fixed.. thank you for sharing. its help me a lot😊

[@theweekendworriers3931]

I had no idea how tho clutch works. I didn’t know what the lever did and never even had it engaged. Thanks!

[@khaledsaeed6018]

Great video! What concentration of isopropyl alcohol do u recommended for this task?

[@MOJVFRABS]

Hi Nice video, but I have a question. I'm new to this business and when I bought the bike the clutch on my Shimano Deore, RD-M6100, Shadow Plus was in the off position as it is now. Can you please tell me in which position (on or off) the clutch should be while riding. And when is the on and off setting used. Thank you very much for the answers Best regards

[@LoveMTB]

Definitely in the ON position when riding

[@MOJVFRABS]

@@LoveMTB Thank you very much for the answers Best regards

[@stolimano3723]

Is there an alternative to the shimano clutch grease? Great video btw. Thanks

[@stolimano3723]

@@LoveMTB I just used Mobil 222. It was a toss up between slick honey, sram butter and that. The mech is working well now.

[@thecount1001]

answering the hard questions! my new xt 12 sp der. is only a few months old but started acting up today on the trail. good to know it's the same process and mechanism as the 11, which i learned from you how to work on. i'll dig in tomorrow. i used the Motorex 'bike grease 2000' and it worked just fine. it's a heavy, sticky grease, perfect for some applications, not great for others. always need a couple of different greases around.... cheers.

[@thecount1001]

@@LoveMTB loving my XT 12 speed, it's incredible. if it takes more maintenance i'm ok with that, just glad there is a guide on how to!

[@thecount1001]

@@LoveMTB yep, it was my clutch. your fix is the correct approach for sure, but here's a very quick solution; just inject some grease in the gap in the band. cycle the der a few times and it turns the cam around spreading the grease. you can feel it get smoother. no taking the whole thing apart. simple is good!

[@hodgo1981]

@@thecount1001 WHile injectin is a tempting alternative, The shimano instructions do say to avoid getting grese in the middle of the clutch drum. SO I"d stick with the proper method.

[@MokaBoucha]

Agree with everyone else, an excellent video. However, it left me unsure. Can I service the clutch, as you did, with the derailleur on the bike?

[@MokaBoucha]

On 2nd viewing you did say it can be done on the bike- thanks. Did you just remove the quick links and dangle the chain?

[@LoveMTB]

Yes 💯

[@MokaBoucha]

No need to reply to any of my questions - just realized all you did was dropped the chain and not remove quick links.

[@RichardWagenknecht]

Perfect! Ended up that my clutch had gotten water in it though so ordered a new one.

[@gwynnjason]

tnx for the guide, mine has a ttttrrrrrrrr sound every time i shift, turns out the clutch lube has dried out.

[@uuzd4s]

You need to do some research on Sprag Bearings. What you are calling a "Roller Bearing Clutch" is actually a One Way Needle Bering inside a Clutch band. The Band that tightens to the outside of this Sprag Bering is actually the "Clutch" component of this system, and allows slippage at pretentioned rates. The Center Sprag Bearing, is a unique needle bearing, that only allows a One Way free rotation on that Clutch Pin that you've cleaned @ 3:50. The one-way bearings job (the Sparg Bearing), is to allow free movement of the spring assisted Derailleur Cage to move rearward, which takes up Chain slack. The actual Clutch, aka the Outer Band tensioned around the Outside of the Sprag Bearing, then takes over and is what prevents the Derailleur Cage from moving forward, which helps prevent chain slap. The reason I bring this up is that you were correct in stating the "Roller Bearing Clutch" uses some sort of really fine oil (@ 4:22). Keeping this Sprag Bearing lightly oiled is Crucial to it's normal operation. At 4:47 you've essentially removed all the lubricating Oil from the inner race of this Sprag Bearing when it was cleaned. That Clutch Pin is the inner race of the Sprag Bearing. Once cleaned, at the very least some light machine oil (sewing machine oil) should be added to the rollers within the center of the Sprag Bearing. A little goes a long ways here as just a drop or two of light machine oil is needed to keep this Bearing happy. If you want to see, or more to the point, hear what a Dry Sprag Bearing sounds like, go watch the Park Tool maintenance vid on this Clutch. The mechanic grabs the Derailleur, and w/ the clutch engaged, it ratchets forward and you hear a loud screeching sound. He claims it's the Dry & Dirty Clutch band but what you're really hearing is the Sprag Bearing itself failing to lock onto the inner race pin and it's ratcheting forward. It's an unmistakable dry metal on metal sound, and not the dry clutch band. Park Tool cleaned out the Sprag Bearing completely and replaced it dry, which is a setup for early failure. I learned the hard way w/ these unique one-way bearings and a lack of cleaning and proper lubrication cost me $1,500 bucks, then I got smart. You were correct in stating there is light oil on those inner needle bearings within the Sprag Bearing, but you didn't replace the oil you removed from the inner race/pin. Sometimes these Sprag Bearings are sold under the name of Sprag Clutches, but they are all essentially just a very unique one-way bearing.

[@LoveMTB]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge! And I called the what Shimano calls them😉

[@uuzd4s]

@@LoveMTB And that's a Good thing, it shows you've done your research. Shimano has to name this something and to be honest, "Roller Bearing Clutch" describes the entire assembly nicely but I'm only referring to the Bearing component here. It is a needle Bearing w/ a very unique internal design that locks up all rotation in one direction and freewheels, like a Bearing, in the other. And, like all Bearings, it needs oil. You're correct in warning to keep the Grease used on the clutch band from getting into the center Bearing. I'm just saying that after the Pin is cleaned, add a drop of light (low viscosity), machine oil to the Bearings internal rollers to keep the Bearing happy. You noted this yourself, that the Bearings internal parts have a light oil on them, which is a missed detail on every YT vid out there, except yours. And you mention to keep the Heavy grease from the inside, another piece of good advice you won't see elsewhere. Shimano does says to lubricate all rotational components within the fine print of their Component Manual on this Clutch/Bearing assembly, but they should have added a touch more info on the center Bearing featured in this assembly. Thx for the reply & Happy Trails ! ☺️

[@4zR1A9]

I never know that there's a lever at the rd and mine's 2mm screw inside the clutch was loose. Those time I'm riding costed me a lot holes on my frame and noise. Wish I knew that sooner

[@joshhunter9299]

Nice, helpful vid! I know what I'll be doing this weekend. (Definitely neglected this maintenance, sadly.)

[@nosreuter]

@@LoveMTB I've actually noticed a decrease in shifting performance this summer. Excited to see what sort of difference this makes since, like I commented separately, have this exact symptom on my clutch!

[@Icehso140]

My Shimano clutch came from the factory with almost no grease. After second ride it started to fail. There were small rust spots forming inside. Good job Shimano.

[@Tomzzzzzz]

About to give this a try. What would happen if I just use the standard green Park Tool grease? I gather it might be too sticky. I also have DT Swiss special freehub grease. Would that be better in a pinch? I need to try something since the derailleur is shifting horribly (lags on down shifts) and I don't have time to wait for the Shimano special grease to arrive. I still plan on ordering it for future though.

[@LoveMTB]

If you look in the comments some used the standard green Park Tool grease. Can't comment on it though. But I would personally try the DT red grease

[@Tomzzzzzz]

@@LoveMTB I placed an order for that grease you linked right after I watched your video. Looks like it’s much lower viscosity than Park Tool polylube. I’ll use it for now so I can ride tomorrow then replace with the Shimano grease when it arrives. Great video on such an small, unheralded yet important part of the drivetrain!

[@Erafune]

Problem FIXED: Shimano clutch lever malfunction. Lever won't fully engage or disengage, or feel stuck. Cause: The "cam axle" (shown 5:01), that's attached to the lever, has come out of it's correct position in the loops of the "cam unit" (shown 3:35), causing a lockup. Solution: Only tool needed is 2mm hex key. Disassemble the clutch as shown in the video, unscrew the tension screw if needed until the cam unit can come off, push cam axle back into the correct position, and reassemble. Note that the cam axle could be unintentionally turned 180 degrees before reassembly, so double check that part faces correct direction.

[@rinoavellino1692]

Good morning and many thanks for your useful video. I have a big slack issue on my Chain when engaged on smaller gears. May be a problem of clutch maintenance?

[@superlongman]

Thank you for the video, it's so informative as always. BTW, the 2mm friction adjustment bolt of my RD-M9120 got loose after a few ride. I asked Shimano about the issue but they had no idea of it. I put a little amount of loctite 222 as a trial, and fortunately the bolt hasn't loosen so far.

[@Cotedesezanne]

I had the same issue with this RD, I tightened bolt a little bit, then it's gone, I used for clutch maintenance DT Swiss special grease for ratchet

[@McLambo]

@@Cotedesezanne what is your experience with using this grease so far?

[@Cotedesezanne]

@@McLambo I am glad with performance, it lasts near half a year without problems

[@McLambo]

@@Cotedesezanne thanks, I have this grease available as well for my DT hub, so will use this also for the clutch.

[@mechdiff]

Great video as always. Do you happen to know if the clutch covers are interchangable for the 12 speed series. I have deore want to replace with a cover that has the adjustment port.

[@MB-ek1ub]

Have not touched my clutch for years, and it still shifts nicely with the clutch engaged. Testimony to shimano’s quality?

[@LoveMTB]

@@MB-ek1ub Did you try it by hand? How does it feel? Smooth? If not you need the service. And yeah maybe you got lucky and they used enough grease from the factory which is not the case these days

[@MB-ek1ub]

@@LoveMTB there is initial resistance. It’s like it breaks free. But shifting is still smooth

[@LoveMTB]

@@MB-ek1ub If it feels like it breaks free after the initial resistance it needs service. Should be smooth throughout.

[@Benihana716]

This was exacTLy what I was looking for! Thank you!!

[@HR-sr4qk]

Great and Easy Explanation! Thank you 🙌

[@TheSHARCRASH]

Thanks for the video! Helped me solve my first grippy clutch! By the way, my internal parts, specially the friction band shows sings of rust. Normal? I guess not, yours doesn't show any.

[@TheSHARCRASH]

@@LoveMTB I had humidity unfortunately and the friction band had protuberances that i scratched out. I was astonished all seemed sealed, even the rubber cap for the internal screw . I greased the seals too and I'll check back on my next rainy ride. Thanks again!

[@boyan64]

Super. I will try this next week.

[@boyan64]

Hi, I finished maintenance. Very easy and simple....😉😉😊 HPG-1 grease Park Tools Thanks again.

[@oronzocana1103]

Hi and thanks for the video! What would be a good way to tell when it's time to replace the actual one way clutch bearing? For example should the bearing be able to rotate easily when holding it with your fingers? Cheers

[@uuryzc8872]

Used sram butter grease, working so smooth now as i did nearly 400 km after service my xtr clutch.

[@olehdolzhanskyi1612]

@@LoveMTB Tried SRAM Butter in my clutch. And it was not good for me. Didn't fix anything at all. Have you tried Shimano Grease for Shadow RD+ Rear Derailleur Stabilizer? Couldn't find it local stores for today SRAM Butter is not the same as Slic Honey, as far as I know.

[@Samazing01]

Hello! In 5:23 are we supposed to grease the silver axle as well? Or do we just leave it dry? Thank you!

[@FuzzyStone01]

Just replaced shifting cable and the housing with no improvement. Clutch is guilty... Great description, thanks!

[@FuzzyStone01]

@@LoveMTB All new for me... There was literally no grease left on clutch cylinder. And I got the bike in February, what the hack? I obviously don't have dedicated grease so I put in the one I have with no high hopes for durability :D

[@gavinoneill7102]

Thanks so much for this! Followed it every step and my clutch is as good as new. Brilliant👍

[@MattiRemonen_Hki]

Thanks for the vid. Didn't know that the clutch is serviceable.

[@MJCV75]

Hi! Can I use the green shimano grease intead of that white one? I'm going to try to do this quick maintenance myself so I would like to know if that green one is fine or what else can I use.

[@tim3978]

Thanks for the video! I see Park Tool Polylube 1000 Grease is in the description link. Can this be used as an alternative to the Shimano grease? My Shimano XT 1x12 clutch is very stiff on both clutch settings looks like this will help.

[@tim3978]

LoveMTB thanks for your help I managed to get hold of the park tool grease. Opening the clutch up there was no grease on it at all for some reason. Greasing it up fixed both problems perfectly.

[@Camryn_2707]

Can you use normal bearing grease? Realy good video

[@Qentoch]

Hello, Good video, thank you ! How many N.m for testing the good setting of the clutch ?

[@nowayout8773]

I didn't know this about xt derailleurs, sadly. But interestingly, my XT 10spd is 4 years old, and I have ridden around 20,000 and have only replaced cassette once, front chain ring once, and I rode through many rain storms and snow storms. Bike shifts fine. I replaced shifter cable once. Idk, but I just got a 9spd cassette with chain, Altus MD310 derailleur and am switching to sunrace friction. I am shocked at the price difference between the cassette and chain. Now I see xt is also high maintenance. I don't mountain bike but I ride on trails with my sturdy, steel frame, touring, commuting bike. I am also going to go 1x9 soon after I decide on which NW 32t chain ring. I am really trying to keep it simple and am a diy bike mechanic. I am only shocked that so many ads promoting high end stuff that is superfluous, and sure, xt is the high end stuff and even though some people buy the bike with the xt components installed they probably don't realize that the parts wear out faster than 9spd and simple derailleurs. I am thinking am I foolish for down grading or am I just not being more practical. I also will be switching over to deore v brakes from magura hs11 .

[@DadDoingStuff]

FANTASTIC VIDEO!! Thanks for posting this man!

[@Northstar-Media]

Good video. mine needed a clean & lubrication.

[@Northstar-Media]

@@LoveMTB Yes it worked. Cleaned , lubed & adjustment works good now. Going to give it a little test ride . Thanks 🤙

[@NPistolC]

Great video and worked a treat! Thank you very much.

[@JeremyDawesJezweb]

Really helpful and good detailed video makes it easier to understand. Thank you.

[@nosreuter]

Thanks a ton!! Subscribed due to this high quality content! My 2 year old 11 spd XTR does that exact same hacking when I try to force it with the clutch engaged. Looking forward to sorting that out. Thanks again!

[@4zR1A9]

I have deore series. But if I engage it doesn't really move at all. Maybe tightenning the 2mm in the clutch is a good idea?

[@mjojrjr6231]

Time to find that special grease😉, thanks for this guide Mate... Very informative and straightforward 👍👏

[@mjojrjr6231]

@@LoveMTB yeahhh, Park tools and was looking at it too. Thanks Mate👍

[@eltonus2]

Sofar Motorex white lithium Grease seems to work best (even slightly better shifting at 4,2 NM ckutch friction than the shimano grease )

[@eltonus2]

@@LoveMTB Hey you are welcome...Can't say for now (have used it only for a Week yet) but it is really thick stuff so could potentialiy last long :-) M y XT RD-M8100 needs constant clutch maintenance... I am not a fan of the construction of the clutchassembly to be honest... But as long as you keep regreasing it it (abou every 1500 KM)works great and is probably the most effective system on the Marked... But even if the Motorex Greas will last a couple 100 KM longer it still means 3-4 times of dissassembly a Year 🙄

[@frostcoil1]

Thanks for this very useful guide! is it a KMC chain or sram you use with your shimano clutch?

[@denot88]

Can it work with slickhoney grease?

[@juliusmia5386]

Do you have a video on how to remove/install frame linkage/pivot bearings. Thank you?

[@juliusmia5386]

LoveMTB I’ll wait for that video. Thanks much.

[@zacharydeubler6546]

Perfect video! Exactly what I was looking for! The inside of the clutch cylinder of mine had some roller bearings that looks lightly rusted. I’m going to try some isopropyl to clean it and then some suspension grease as it’s the lightest oil I have on hand. Any recommendations?

[@bridg3burn3r]

As lovemtb said, don't use slick honey. Have seen this from others. A thick grease seems better.

[@adriankelly_edinburgh]

Nice video. Thanks. I too was unaware that these clutches are serviceable - my wife's and son's bikes both have shadow+ rear mechs so I'll keep an eye on them in future. (I'm still running a clutchless 9-speed SRAM X0 on my 12 year old hardtail...)

[@stepan.furman]

Perfect explanation. Like these tutorials!

[@TurboPidgeon]

Just did this, amazing video, thank you! However, I am not using Shimano grease, i have a tone of different oils / greases and I thought to use the one that seemed of same viscosity like Shimanos. So I used Fuchs Renolit Multifunction (white marine grade grease), and for me works like a charm, smooth and strong clutch action. I own a Shimano XT 11 speed. The grease is also very anti corrosive, so it will protect the parts well. I will post how it behaves through time and if something changed.

[@advancedfea912]

Thanks for the video. I have a question, when does the clutch has ro be used? Can i use it in off mode?

[@Aaron-nj8xb]

Always the best! Thanks 👍👍👍

[@marcg611]

great Video!.. I have slightly different issue on XT 12sp with 200 miles on it: I was getting binding sound when up shifting to larger cogs, I found when clutch is off its still very tensioned and creaky if you try to slacken and push the cage forward, with Clutch On its very very hard to reduce tension by pushing cage forward and maintains too high of tension. I tried reducing tension but not much help. I removed the clutch assy and my cage was free to move like how it should be with clutch off but is not. I took apart the clutch and was 100% dry inside the friction ring with some light corrosion/wear and the ring was crazy tight just to remove, also some light corrosion on the shaft the clutch bearing sits on. -> Im waiting on order of Dumonde Freehub grease to fix but do you think this process will solve or potentially the inner bearings are toast also? thanks

[@twosix_00]

Should this procedure be done with the derailleur on the bike or is it necessary to remove it?

[@kuk14i]

you have earned a new subscriber :D thank you forbthe great video 😁

[@MTBfixHQ]

I've always used Motorex 2000 on my shimano clutches, on the last service I did purchase the shimano special hub grease and I find it to be only half as effective as the motorex 2000... I was expecting it to be better but it was not the case

[@MTBfixHQ]

@@LoveMTB Longevity + smoothness. With the Shimano grease you can feel the notchyness when moving it by hand, with Motorex 2000 its much smoother for me. I find the Shimano grease to be too thin. Motorex 2000 from what i've read over the years is the same as the green Shimano grease that comes prepacked in their bottom brackets and lots of other Shimano components, it really is amazing stuff

[@MTBfixHQ]

@@LoveMTB Seems to work perfectly for me, not too slippery just smoother :) I was actually just looking through the instructions for my shimano m786 derailleur just now and I notice they mention "New grease number: Y04121000 (50 g) Old Grease number: Y04120800 (100 g)" So it looks like they are using a new grease now, if you happen to get your hands on the Y04121000 grease let me know if there is any differences between it and the old stuff, from searching the internet the only difference I can see so far is the container it comes in but I can't see whats actually inside the container.

[@yasirsyamlahmuddin7582]

Great job, nice video & clear explanation

[@nicksullivan2212]

Learning a lot great video thank you