eSun HS PETG Filament Review & Orca Slicer Calibration

[@dancoon7653]

Just found your videos yesterday and I'm finding them really useful. thank you :)

[@Krazydavea]

WOW, great job showing how to calibrate PETG filament in Orca, thanks.

[@brucejohnson1264]

I have been having the typical problems with printing PETG. Depending on the color/brand it tends to blob on the nozzle, have poor adhesion, and generally act up when printing causing failed prints. My most reliable has been eSun PETG, so I decided to try this new high speed version. All I can say is WOW!. Even with boosted speed settings, the fist print is flawless. I will be getting more.

[@leehusher8573]

thankyou for your awesome video, followed it step by step and now printer is running amazing, thanks again. subbed

[@rolf-s]

And what speed settings did you print with? Somehow you can't find any documents or profiles from esun regarding the "HS". Only "up to 300mm/s"

[@NWGR]

Excellent video, thanks for posting! This has me thinking esun might be the manufacturer of bambu's new PETG HF. I know elegoo makes a "rapid" PETG as well. Either way, it's great that there's options for high speed PETG out there now. Subscribed.

[@BennyTygohome]

Thanks for the walkthrough about flow rate calibration. I'm going to be buying my first 3d printer, the A1 (256mm). The A1 series has an Eddy (?) flow rate sensor. I think that is in place of the lidar laser sensor that you have on the X1. Regarding the flow rate calibrations, is that to override the flow rate sensors? And if so, is that because manual calibration is better than the built in flow rate sensors? And if I had a printer without the flow rate sensor, is this manual calculation/calibration how all 3D printers calculate flow rate? This is a one time only process when using a new type of filament? Then we just save the settings for that filament for next time? Thanks a bunch. I enjoy these lab type walkthroughs. 👍

[@scottturner864]

I'm curious, what about the retraction test?

[@3D_Printing]

Great, but for me, very new to Orcaslicer, after selecting the Orca PETG option and saving as "PETG my setting" so I can tweak it, etc. if I go to save as Gcode, or print it still says PLA in the filename with PLA setting. I do not know how to get it to slice as PETG, can you help me please, thank you

[@christopherlyons7613]

When doing any of the calibrations in Orca, should you always use a Generic Filament profile? Seems a bit odd, since if you have used a filament before and have some values set and working, why wouldn't you load the existing profile for that filament and build on top of that? Seems like if you keep going back to the Generic profile, you'll never get it dialed in very well.

[@mrBira]

235C is kinda low for this filament. It will print, but the strenght comes when above 250-255C.

[@alencani9973]

Thank you for the excellent tutorial. Recently I got the same filament and it was printing very badly on my A1 Mini with Bambu generic PETG profile. eSun provided profile was even worse... a lot of stringing, bad overhangs,.. I made the calibration and got almost the same results, only PA was slightly different, around 0.032. I think setting with the most effect was print temp, after lowering it to 235 it's printing fine. It's still adhering to the textured plate like crazy, I have to use some release agent. BTW, it seems that eSun has slightly changed parameter info on their web page and docs. Their bambu profiles for this filament are bad, forcing 260 °C, bed 90 °C and fan at most 40% is way too hot, at least on my printer. The closest good Bambu profile that prints somewhat ok is for their new PETG-HF.

[@AndrewAHayes]

I am thinking of getting the Ali Express CHT nozzle upgrade in the hope this will improve Ludicrous Mode. have you tried one of these nozzles yrt?

[@SliderSS]

I have a P1S and love it, I am thinking of adding a X1C but this video confused me a bit, I thought one of the advantages of the X1C is that the lidar does flow rate calibration? Is it better to manually calibrate? If so I may stick with a 2nd P1S

[@sacrystan]

The problem with the calibration that the machine does at the beginning of a print is that in multi-color prints, it only calibrates the first one. If you do this calibration shown in the video, you will have all the filaments calibrated and also save the time of the initial calibration.

[@gligoran]

Shouldn't you run PA calibration before flow calibration? At least Ellis's Guide says to do that.

[@unclebuck5957]

I changed to PTEG for all my filament holders they hold up in dryer Pla does not

[@TheMoody876]

Going to cardboard spools ruined esun for me

[@dancoon7653]

Same here. It's like they've all got something against the AMS. No sooner did it come out everyone decided to change to cardboard spools. Tbh they should go down the bambu route of master spools and refills.

[@D4RKFiB3R]

If you liked it, then you should put a ring on it. Problem solved :)

[@TheMoody876]

@D4RKFiB3R I did untill I ran out of the bulk I had on hand. Then the new order of 30+ rolls i placed came in all cardboard

[@D4RKFiB3R]

@@TheMoody876 I mean a plastic ring around the cardboard lol.

[@TheMoody876]

@D4RKFiB3R I did tried 3 different designs the spools are very inconsistent in diameter. Measured 5 spools from the smallest to the largest was a 1.5mm difference. So I would have to have an assortment of different size rings to be useful

[@BanStalker]

Esun is shit of choice. Hard to deal with. Lots of settings with no results. Switch to any other brands.

[@TheMadison]

What?? rubbish