Etching Press Eccentric Machining

In this episode we complete the machining of the etching press wabble eccentric. This is a bronze eccentric hub that drives the cycloidal gear reducer. We do some four jaw chuck eccentric machining and follow up with a little mill work to complete the hub.

[@Abom79]

Tom when I seen the part move and almost fall out of the chuck I was reaching out trying to catch it! LOL! Looks like you are handling that 4 jaw pretty nicely. I taught you well! Nice use of the lead knocker too. As always you do some nice work buddy. Thanks for sharing this job with us, and showing how its done. Talk to ya soon! Adam

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Bud, Phew! I was getting worried there. I give myself a B on the four jaw work. Thanks for the passing grade. The knocker is awesome. When its all beat to crap can I send it back to the factory for porting and polishing? All the best, Tom

[@Abom79]

Tom, that 6 jaw scroll chuck will spoil you. Gotta keep the practice up once in a while! LOL

[@oxtoolco]

Abom79 My name is Tom and I'm a six jaw addict......

[@Bookerb2004]

Someone find oxtoolco A twelve step program STAT Stay strong buddy help is coming, in the mean time. Just say no!

[@Stephen1455]

If you have a large diameter bull center, it gets you really close for a 4 jaw. You being the man can probably make one! You are magic! Learnt so much here!

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Stephen, Thanks for the comment. I have thought about making a center off and on. I have a Royal Versa center now that actually does what you suggest. All the best, Tom

[@Stephen1455]

Once again, great technique! I have had expanding parallels for years, but have rarely used them, this perfect!

[@myrondunbar5591]

Thank you for how to setup for offset. I'm getting back in to machining after my 1 week class 40 years ago. watching all you guys. Have inspired me to get in to machine in my retirement years .

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Myron, Good deal. Its really fun! Trust me. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@ricbarker4829]

That hoist for the chuck, anything that can save your back, fingers and bed is a winner.

[@bendavanza]

Around 21 minutes the video is mesmerizing. I really enjoy seeing the project take shape. Thank you for your videos.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Ben, Thanks for the comment. I was getting hypnotized myself doing the job. Cheers, Tom

[@motel29]

Awesome craftsmanship, Bro!! And especially loved the eccentric turning, teaching! ~

[@oxtoolco]

+motel29 Hi Motel, Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@Rover109able]

Great another master piece along with the hand wheel,keep em coming

[@fredgenius]

That is beautiful. Thanks for taking the time to share.

[@SteveMcQuillin]

I can just picture it now, Adam gets home to a Fedex package containing a part, 4 jaw, a Benjamin and a note that simply states "Can you mount this peckerwood in the chuck for me?" - a whole new line of business! Great to see this mechanism take tangible form after seeing the computerized model, very nice Tom! :)

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Steve, I'm sure we will hear from Master Sargent four jaw shortly. cheers, Tom

[@2024bear]

I have had many different shims for "soft jaws" and I really liked your style........... So I made some .......... I love them .... they stay in place whether they are loose, tight or empty

[@damojfowler]

Love those polished carbide tips,great for finishing various materials.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Damo, I really like the high positive polished inserts for softer materials. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@craigspakowski7398]

Tom Lipton King of the Eccentrics! That thing spinning in the lathe was gyrating like a Hula girl! Hurt my head and hypnotizing at the same time. By the way I made a set of the lathe copper jaws for both my chucks. What a headache saver vs the Al shims I used to use. I owe you a tall cold frosty drink!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Craig, You got that right king of the eccentrics. I was getting mesmerized by that gyrating mass of gold myself. Like watching a campfire in the dark. Zzzzzzz.. Loose shims sink ships. Cheers, Tom

[@hdoug5]

awesome project, thanks for letting us watch, listen and learn from a master :)

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Doug, Thanks for the comment and compliment. All the best, Tom

[@billmoran3812]

Wow. The first cuts with the part set up eccentric in the lathe were really scary, seeing it flying around like that! Great job to show the setup and all. Very educational. Thanks, Tom.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Bill, i was almost hypnotized and sucked into the spinning vortex. Thanks for the comment. best, Tom

[@PeterWMeek]

A set of parallels between the back of the part and the face of the four-jaw will get you close to flat while dialing in the eccentric. You will probably have to clamp them gently to a pair of the jaws (1 and 3 or 2 and 4) so they don't drop out while rotating the chuck. Don't forget to take them out before spinning it up! I find that when centering in a four-jaw that the final few thousandths are best done by tightening only. If you _have_ to back off a jaw, make it a very small backoff and retighten immediately - before going to the opposite jaw. Otherwise you just keep chasing the same thousandth back and forth across the chuck. (I doubt that I have a three-jaw on my lathe more than 5% of the time; it's four-jaw or collets for me, so I get a lot of practice.)

[@SalvatoreHP]

Hi Tom Real nice job and steps taken to tackle each procedure explained quite clear just like others such as Adam and many others on YT, really enjoying these clips as I hand to handle such parts as a non machine'st self taught until I had access to mills and lathes, one of the comments one viewer mentioned about the cost of that bronze and I can remember my boss asked me one day back in the years if i would take up the challenge to fabricate or machine a specific part according to the drawings that came along with it, cost of the part was about 700$ the size of the metal was 8 inch by 8 inch it was referred as exotic medal made to order according to the inviroment it had to be used to work in, maybe( radio active inviroment ) I refused to tackle a piece that expensive with my limited knowledge, but someone else machined to specs very carefully......... and with a lot..... of time, but not me to expensive to risk scraping it , anyhow enjoy all your jobs including many others on YT

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Salvatore, Thanks for the nice note. I refuse to think about how much the material costs. I prefer to focus on the job and process. If I let myself get hung up on how much the material costs it would effect my work in a negative way. To date my personal record for most expensive single chunk of material was a blank of Tantalum. You could pick it up and put it in the lathe. All $14,000 worth. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@hankus253]

Tom the views from the grandstand were great as usual.

[@jimmilne19]

Suddenly, at the clip at 17:00 I felt completely at home. Yup, that's how my shop should be with me doing machine work and someone else practicing piano for a change! Love it. Perfect accompaniment; the music matched the 4 jaw fun: do it again and again, closer to right each time. Yup, right at home. Interesting video, too.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Jim, Could you come over and give my neighbor some lessons? He could use a little help. All the best, Tom

[@reideichner8597]

Hi Tom, VERY NICE! Great job with the close up shots and nice finish on your eccentric. Thanks for showing the process. Take Care, Reid

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Reid, Thanks for the comment. Everybody likes gold. Cheers, Tom

[@MilanDupal]

I had really enjoyed watching your "gold" masterpiece manufacture!

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Milan, The color was almost mesmerizing. With the eccentric running out it almost put me in a trance. Cheers, Tom

[@MyS10Rocks]

That was awesome! Nice job!

[@Crawlerjamie]

I need to learn how to do some machining. This looks so fun.

[@MehmetSutas]

Great video. This one was also something like how to use 4 jaw chuck.

[@phooesnax]

incredible project. VERY NICE work!

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Jim, Thanks for the comment and participation. All the best, Tom

[@bbtjd001]

That bronze was scary looking when you first started turning...My little lathe would have walked across the shop. Another fine job.

[@JohnBare747]

A good day to make a bronze eccentric, Nice job Tom.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey John, Thanks for the comment and compliment. All the best, Tom

[@k5at]

Great video Tom. I've turned a cam lobe on my lathe by using a fixture, where I had to index the lobe around to get the proper profile. I think I can adapt your way and do it a whole lot eaiser. BTW glad to see you using the hammer.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Herb, I had to switch to Adams lead knocker. The little hammer just didn't have enough grunt to move the part. I really like how it rebounds. Pretty amazing wood. Cheers, Tom

[@GMCShazamataz]

Hey Tom, I roll my indicator over 90deg when working in tight spots near the jaw. I find it useful sometimes. Great job on this part, I love watching and learning all the time. Cheers Shannon

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Shannon, Where were you when I needed you in the shop? You would have got some great video on the bald spot on the back of my head. Cheers, Tom

[@Travisfromoregon]

All we have at work is a large 20" four jaw. I've become so accustomed to using it I pulled the 3 jaw off at home and have been using the 4 jaw ever since. I admit I had to watch a couple of Abom79's videos before I got the hang of it. A common problem I had was when I would chuck up a drive-line and try and get it running true so I could cut the weld out, I was always fighting it never reading zero. I found the problem was the tube was never completely round, even on a new piece, the seamless tubing wasn't to bad but the welded tubing was horrible. I found as long as the dial-indicator returned to the same spot ever 90deg. it would run true. I bought your 2nd book and read about heat straightening (best info on the net) and was able to true the rest after welding. Thanks!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Travis, I really have warmed up to four jaws. When I got my lathe it had a crappy three jaw and a good four jaw so I started using the four jaw a bit. It makes you do better work by its nature. You are one of the first to give feedback on the flame straightening stuff. Its really handy to have it up your sleeve. I have heard that driveline builders use it regularly to straighten the tubes. All the best, Tom

[@jeffiscool1805]

Long ago I made (maybe invented lol) a fine adjustment for my chainfalls. Its basically a screw driven scissor jack type mechanism between the chain hook and the load. Allows one hand lifting and lowering at a more precise infinite rate. Like when you only need it a tiny bit lower or higher. Just went out and looked at it, and a modified kant twist style clamp with a hand knob would probably work exactly the same. Be a lot easier than starting from scratch. Would work great for heavy chuck installs.

[@CalamityKim1]

Lovely job :), loved the adjustable parallel, I've never see one of those before.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Kim, Someone else from Europe mentioned you don't see these over there much. I use mine all the time. If you get some get them in pairs which makes them twice as useful. You can still get these reasonably on fleabay if you buy them one at a time. Sets command more money. All the best, Tom

[@CalamityKim1]

Hey Tom, I will wait to see if I need some, I'm sure I could just grind some up :) Thanks Kim

[@oxtoolco]

KimberlyBarnett123 Hi Kim, Its the chicken and the egg thing with adjustable parallels. If you have a few of them you will find all kinds of clever uses. If you don't have them you will find other ways to do the job without them. Keep your eyes peeled for some. I'm pretty sure you won't be disappointed. All the best, Tom

[@andyhodgkinson3807]

I love watching manual guys, you really put the art into machining. My tendency would be to throw it up on a cnc mill and interpolate an eccentric boss, then run an OD boring head around it.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Andy, Sounds like fun as well. I will have some CNC equipment at some point. Hang around for a bit. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@mikeadrover5173]

Tom: I did not know about adjustable parallels, very-very cool. I use my set of parallels on my router table all the time. When I do a milling operation in wood like a “dado” adjustable parallels may speed-up setup and hitting that critical shoulder mark! I have learned so much watching your films. I have to go back and see that magazine you showed, meant to shit happens. As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Mike, Thanks for the comment. Talk to you soon. Cheers, Tom

[@MrAndrewmcgibbon]

Hey Tom, Most amazing danged thing I've seen!

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Andrew, Thanks for the comment and compliment. Cheers, Tom

[@autobabies]

Thanks for sharing this video，I learn a lot from here。

[@doubleboost]

Very nice Tom I found my "spring tool holder" Regards John

[@jasincolegrove6651]

looking forward to seeing it in a video.

[@marcossanchez7827]

buen trabajo de mecanisado que marca torno es el estas usando

[@danway60]

It's a lot easier when you have enough travel on your indicator. When doing manual turning on my apprenticeship I only had a lever type DTI and I had to keep winding the cross slide backwards and forwards a set amount to get the "run out" I needed. 4 jaw work is fun, but the setting up definitely takes up some time. Great video though Tom.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Daniel, Uggg, That sounds tedious. Thanks for the comment and sharing your experience. Cheers, Tom

[@moking1761]

Hi Tom, When setting up for an eccentricity, all you need to do is set the zero on the dial gauge for the two non-eccentric jaws and then set for + and _ offset on the offset jaws. In this way the resetting of the zero after each alteration is avoided. Best Regards MoK

[@oxtoolco]

+Mo King Hi Mo, Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@imanoleonardo6902]

Great Video Tom, whats the best way to lubricate and care for your indicators, I have one that seem to be gummed up, thought some lube would benefit it but don't know what type to use.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Hal, I'll give you two guesses what I like. The first guess begins with a WD and the second guess has a 40 in it. I find the bushing gets crudded up and a bit of the magic sauce and a few wipes and rinses and most indicators come back to life. Dust gets on the exposed rod and gums up the bushing which has a close fit. If its bent that's another adventure. All the best, Tom

[@Stephen1455]

Also, I had made a my own version of brass jaws, then I see yours! I now have to make the much better ones you use!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Stephen, Make them out of copper sheet. Its superior to brass on all accounts. Cheers, Tom

[@tandemcompound2]

beautiful shop and work. a bushing in yer BVDs eh? I need to make a 2 inch eccentric should I hack it out of one chunk, turning with a wobble frankly scares me with steel, or can I use to bushings and weld

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Tandem, Do what fits your comfort level and tooling. Two inch offset is pretty large. Might be tempted to bush that one. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@ab-shop]

Hi Tom, really nice video: I can't take my eyes off that "star" with magnets that you inserted between the jaws to hold shallow pieces, could you tell me where you bought it? Or is it self-built? Thanks a lot, AB-SHOP

[@kevinanderson3279]

I had to laugh when I saw this. Not at your work, but because you are the first person I have seen with a YAM lathe. I have one too, I think my grandfather bought it in 84, with the same Rohm chucks, and Aloris tool post holder. I think mine has an 8.5 foot bed. Anyways, I like the back you made, and it gave me ideas. Thanks for showing others some tricks.

[@oxtoolco]

+Kevin Anderson Hey Kevin, This is the first YAM I have owned. I actually like it. We have one in one of the shops at work that is a bit smaller. Very nice machines in my opinion. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@matthewperlman3356]

I am curious why you chose to mill the two sides of the drive slot separately instead of going straight across on each pass? was there a size difference between the two, in the specifications I missed?

[@mainemikeiii]

Impressive work sir.... I was a little lost when you started using the technical terms; peckerwood for example... I thought you were referring to my brother in law for a moment... (he's a peckerwood) But my confussion was temporary.... seriously though, I thought the part came out A+, which means the chuck work was spot on too... thanks for sharing!!!! Mike.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Mike, I think I might know your brother in law. Mr Peck Wood. Thanks for the comment and compliment. All the best, Tom

[@orbmanelson]

Hey Oxtoolco, you could use a couple of gauge blocks or parallels slipped behind your workpiece and the chuck to give you a much more accurate starting point for indicating the face. It can be a handful, but you hold them or tape them in place then tap the workpiece back until it comes into contact, then slip out the gauge blocks and you are only minutes away from truing up with the dial indicator. Thanks so much for an instructive video on offset machining! Well done!

[@oxtoolco]

Hi David, Shortly after this video I made a proper backing plate. I have always favored a backing plate over loose blocks. I can remember a few times being frustrated by loose blocks falling out at just the wrong time. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@orbmanelson]

oxtoolco Hey Tom, I am really enjoying watching your videos! Are you making the Etching Press for yourself? Ironic I spent some time looking for one on eBay today. Nice shop set up too!

[@doyouwanttofuk]

what iv done in the passed is using the T nut slots to clamp a parallel to the chuck, tho i do work in a big machine shop so do have a large selection of parallels to choose from making it much easier

[@oxtoolco]

doyouwanttofuk hey fuk, Take a look at my video on the four jaw backing plate. I prefer this type to parallels. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@doyouwanttofuk]

oxtoolco yea iv seen that before in your vids very helpful bit for tool.

[@miles11we]

is there any reason/s against or for offsetting from pushing it out with 2 opposing jaws vs pushing it out with 2 perpendicular jaws, taking in the opposite 2. Where the eccentricity comes in 45° from the jaws vs inline. Aside from indicating being a little bit more intuitive. in my wood turning (i know woodturning and metal arent really comparable) whenever i do on axis eccentric i do it the other way, more for the dovetail cup jaws to get a more even grip.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Miles, Not really. Its just more convenient to track what the offset is directly as you move it. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@BasementShopGuy]

Tom, I loved this. Never saw an eccentric video, so this was helpful. I have a question - for indicating a shallow piece in a 4-jaw, I'm curious why you didn't use some parallels to sat the part against? I do this and it nearly zeroes it out on Chuck up.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Basement, I never liked fussing around with parallels in the lathe. I prefer a backing plate that stays in place and takes some thrust when machining. I almost stopped and made one but went ahead and dinked it around for all your viewing pleasure. Cheers, Tom

[@dicksargent3582]

oxtoolco Tom you can hold the parallels in place temporally with magnets as you set up then remove them once the part is held tight in the jaws. Saves an a lot of time. I also would do my face run out first this way to save time. :)

[@johnjohn-ed9qt]

Just went back and watched this (and most of the rest of this build, over the last couple weeks) and got to wondering about when you were clobbering the indicator with the chuck jaw. I pretty much just swap the tip out for an extension before I start when I'm doing something like this, and was surprised when you didn't. Of course, I am clumsy enough to destroy every tool I have, otherwise.

[@oxtoolco]

+john john Hey John, Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@gentharris]

A 2" travel indicator rocks for this type of stuff, gets the body of the indicator away from the chuck jaws. Its pretty important that the indicator be exactly square and dead in line with the center if the offset has to be exact! I use 2 indicators with one on the face for this kind of setups, saves switching back and forth, wink. I will try and snap some pix of a real wacky setup I have going at work tomorrow. Teaser, 30" long part, 4 jaw main chuck and 4 jaw live center. OD, face and ID work on the tailstock end LOL!

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Gent, Now there is a good freaking idea. I had one not ten steps away but it didn't even dawn on me. I have to think about the indicator centering. My quick un-thought out answer is to adjust it to run true it doesn't matter if its slightly off center height. As long as the indicator is pointing at the center of rotation reasonably well doesn't it work? Laugh I did try two indicators. It just gave me more things to hit with the hammer. All the best. Can't wait to see your hairball setup. Tom

[@gentharris]

oxtoolco For running true it really doesn't matter but to set an exact offset it needs to be pretty perfect, eye ball is good enough for most things but for bigger offsets even 1 degree off on the indicator alignment is .0003" in an inch. I know this is splitting hairs but there are times that's what the prints call for then they weld the parts together and distort em all to hell but they better be right when they leave our shop because the customer may have a CMM and check it to the Nth degree on stuff that they are gonna micro polish all the dimensions off of anyway. Its pretty stupid some of the tollerances we get specked and what the parts end up looking like when they send them back for final machining after welding The camera is sitting on my wallet I will Email you the pix.

[@fuzzy1dk]

I wonder if a quick way to do the initial alignment would be to use a center in the tailstock as reference; jaw1 at radius+runout, jaw 3 at radius-runout

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Lasse, That would work also. You still are stuck indicating but its all about getting close first. Cheers, Tom

[@Stephen1455]

What is your indicator and set up clamp on the mill? I have an Indicol but this looks better as the indicator face is almost horizontal, no need for a mirror!!!

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Stephen, Check out Indicol and Noga marriage. Its a video about my indicator setup. Cheers, Tom

[@charleslambeth4358]

Tom, I am sure you have explained this before but, I don't get the eccentric gear thing, can you tell me what video you explained this in so I can review and understand what you are doing.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Charles, Search for "Cycloidal Drive model" There is a video of the gear reducer protoype model in action. Cheers, Tom

[@AlbosNoggins]

Howdy Tom, awesome video thanks so much for sharing! I don't think this one is in the Etching Press playlist as I was looking for it and couldn't find it. Just thought I'd let you know :-)

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Alex, Thanks for the heads up. I'll check it out. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@keldsor]

Oh, some nice and shining brass work you did there, Tom ! Indicating your face, though ... why not "press it in line" with a rotating ball bearing on the end of a piece of rod placed in a toolholder - I made one myself and I can line up the face of an object this way with 0,01 mm very fast and then do the rest by tapping softly with a AdamBooth-rammer.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Keld, You saw that face looping around. The indicator barely stayed on the little face I had. Besides I don't have one of those bearing tools around. My first choice will always be a backing plate as it firmly supports the piece against the chuck. All the best, Tom

[@Stephen1455]

How do you no you are concentric? In the middle of radius for slot? I take it you have a DRO? And are using the numbers?

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Stephen, I located the high point of the eccentric then indicated the OD of the part to find center for the slot. Cheers, Tom

[@paulmicrons8416]

Hi tom just found your channel. Nice stuff you have here. I like the fact your honest and say that you don't use a four jaw much , ok on with the show I've got two things for ya 1. the test indicator HOLDER holding the intrepid as you test the wobble bobbin in your mill , who makes it ? I never see one like that and could not seem to read it . 2 .I've seen a few of your video's cool stuff but if I could ,I'd like to suggest using springs of different lengths and sizes to keep pressure on the parallels . using in-between the parallels and close the vise trapping the springs in place ,makes for easy and quick cleaning while working and not knocking down the parallels at the same time . P.S check for clearances drill's and springs don't like each other ! .

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Paul, Thanks for the comment and suggestions. The indicator holder is a combination of a INDICOL and a NOGA indicator holder. Check out my video called a Noga Indicol marriage. Cheers, Tom

[@paulpannabecker4641]

Tom, Great Video! Checked the face of my 4 jaw the other day, there was almost no run-out. Is there any reason not to use parallels to get the initial loading of the part close? This did induce a trance like state; some subliminal suggestions "send bit coins to tom" might have been productive. I am anxiously awaiting the next installment!

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Paul, I did try some parallels off camera. I have always detested this method as awkward and a pain. I prefer the backing plates because they stay in place and provide a solid thrust backup. I almost made one mid stream but didn't have the right thickness of plate around. Cheers, Tom

[@andregross7420]

Great video Tom, did the copper jaws gall the brass because they are similar metals? Oh, and it looks like there's stuff growing in the coolant bottle on your mill door. Have a good one.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Andre, Copper did fine. This bronze is very hard so it was not problem. When you have metals with a similar hardness is when you can get into trouble. The scum you see in the bottle is tramp way oil. I recycled some coolant out of the tee slots when I cut the radius on the handwheel. It left a layer of oil on my nice white coolant. Cheers, Tom

[@julietwhiskey01]

Nice work. I would not want to put a slot across the top of a narrow area, but I don't know what job this is up to.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Jw, The slot is a flat drive key. It connects to the large curved spoke handwheel we built in some other video's. Cheers, Tom

[@ayoubnaitboubkre4339]

nice work

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Ayoub, Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@rdkitchens]

Hey Tom. Could you post a picture or link to the print for this part? I've never done eccentric turning and I'm curious how the print would be drawn.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Rd, There are just two centers shown one for the center of the part and one for the eccentric. The amount the two centers are eccentric by is dimensioned. Cheers, Tom

[@HighTechCountryBoy]

I thought you normally did 'eccentric machining' over there at ox tool co. All kidding aside, this is a really interesting project, keep up the great work.

[@oxtoolco]

No you have it backwards. Its an "eccentric" doing machine work here. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@anubis1100]

how would using this process for machining a small engine crankshaft effect the bits when using steel bar stock?

[@oxtoolco]

anubis1100 Hi Anubis, Not sure if I understand your question. Most toolbits will hold up fine to interrupted cuts like this if that was your question. Hope this helps. Best, Tom

[@anubis1100]

yeah thats what i was asking. thanks for the reply.

[@rchopp]

Very nice,,nuff said.

[@oxtoolco]

Thanks. T

[@ckvasnic1]

Tom, You are right again, Adam makes dialing in the 4 jaw look so much easier! Ha. Couldn't resist. Awesome video. Thanks for sharing your time and talent. Why did you mill the key slot one side at a time, rather than milling across both sides on each pass? Thanks, all the best. Chuck

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Chuck, We call that air cutting in machine shop speak. Crossing all that air multiple times takes time. You can see I'm in so much of a hurry to get things done. Old habits die hard. Cheers, Tom

[@g2macs]

That 'wobble' has done something to my eyes, I can't seem to focus now....... :)

[@austin3538]

nice job

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Austin, Thanks for the comment and participation. All the best, Tom

[@chrisstephens6673]

Hi Tom, thank you so much for posting this video, I was having a moment of disillusionment day making your christmas/birthday present and it cheered me up no end to realise there is something that I can do better than you. :>) I am referring to four jaw work but then I do it most days so it is not really surprising. Hint, if you had twisted the dial face to the vertical you might not have had clearance issues. Hint 2 if you had centred the non eccentric jaws you would confine the eccentricity to the other two jaws only, a small point but useful all the same as movement is more predictable.. ATB chris PS your prezzies will get sorted soon, hopefully.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Chris, Thanks for the comment. Now it you shot any video of this factory of yours you would know that nobody want to see the back of you head whilst indicating. I did actually consider dialing it in true before offsetting it but then decided not to. Now I wonder how much that might have assisted. Cheers, Tom

[@chrisstephens6673]

Factory? nay Lad, but I'm sure the back end of my 30's sized car garage would be very flattered to called such and the back of head is, regrettably, the only part of me that most people want to see! :>(

[@DaddyFattyDFN]

Tom, As you come across a test dial or indicator that has a broken or missing bezel, you may want to take the bezels out and save them for on camera work. "No glass - - No glare." Joe

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Joe, I was thinking about hazing the face with a little scotchbrite... Just kidding. Maybe some satin protective film like shelf paper would cut the glare. Time to experiment. cheers, Tom

[@billdlv]

oxtoolco Tom try a circular polarizer filter for the camera lens if you want to kill the glare. Personally it does not bother me not to see the needle you're right there able to read it and tell the viewers what it is doing.

[@paximadisxevidotos]

Hi My tip:Use a strong spring with your hook to lift the chuck.This will help you to fine adjust-control the height of the weight you're lifting.Good day Sir.

[@oxtoolco]

paximadisxevidotos Hi Pax, Thanks for the comment and suggestion. Cheers, Tom

[@billdlv]

Tom part looks like it turned out great. Nice deburr work to finish off, are those file handles from our friends at McMaster?

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Bill, I think Mcmaster does sell them now. They are Pfherd brand and I love them. I bought two boxes of them on Fleabay quite a few years ago. I remember some other guys in the shop wanted some but I wouldn't give them any. When they asked why I said how will I be able to tell my files from yours if I give you some? They went back to the corncobs they were using before they saw the nice blue ones. Cheers, Tom

[@billdlv]

oxtoolco Thanks Tom I like your reasoning there. 42215A11-42215A13 look like the ones.

[@BedsitBob]

A couple of suggestions. Firstly, put a sharpie mark at both the high and low points. This will allow you to quickly return to them, rather than have to keep searching for them. Next, with the zero set on the low point, calculate the figure for the halfway point between what the high point reads, and what you want it to read. Now, with the indicator on the high point, adjust to the halfway point you calculated. That should put you almost dead nuts, on where you want to be.

[@Buckrun11]

VERY cool! Remember don't babble it's wabble. I saw wobble in the comments! LOL

[@oxtoolco]

Babble, Yikes another similar word. Now I'll be totally lost. Dangit, Tom

[@frollard]

16:30 would a set of parallels behind the piece not suffice to straighten it?

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Frollard, Yes that works. Its not my favorite method as its hard to hold and do all the other things needed at the same time. I ended up making a backing plate for this chuck in a later video. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@frollard]

oxtoolco Excellent, I saw the spider you made for the 6-jaw later on and figured that is also pretty ideal :)

[@SovaKlr]

Did I miss it or did it happen off camera... did you ever check the other two jaws? You only wanted the eccentricity on one axis so you would have wanted to check and verify that the part was centered in the other two jaws right?

[@oxtoolco]

Offset is offset. I was measuring the total offset with the indicator so its irrelevant if it happens to not be oriented with a set of jaws perfectly. Runout in a lathe is always a circle. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@SovaKlr]

Thanks I suppose that makes sense

[@FredMiller]

Very cool Tom. What is the makeup of your "magic sauce"..?

[@666alikat]

wd40 iirc

[@FredMiller]

Thanks! I had to look up iirc (learned something else today) double thanks!

[@NOBOX7]

whats in the magic sauce? i need some

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Box, Its Sriracha! Hot spicy and delicious. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@xxxPrsnxxx]

Tom- When aligning the slot with the apogee of the eccentric, if your indicator pin wasn't aligned exactly with the diameter of the eccentric, then the slot wouldn't be perfectly aligned, right? Best, -Tom

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Tom, Sounds right from here. A slight back and forth movement of the X axis would expose an error as a high point would show that was different than the one found through rotating. Good observation. Cheers, Tom

[@razorworks9942]

Hey Tom, Cant believe I missed one of your vids! None the less though, BRILLIANT AS USUAL!! My only question is, when you were setting the offset, is it not necessary to indicate the part to zero before going after the offset? My afterthought is, because you found zero after each adjustment that became your reference. Yes? Just trying to wrap my old noggin around the concept!! The more I see from you guy's, the more I realize how much I don't know!! Thanks for sharing Tom. Razor!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Ray, Not quote following your ironworker logic. Are we talking on the lathe or on the mill? If its the lathe offset is offset. No accommodation is needed for centering. Cheers, Tom

[@razorworks9942]

oxtoolco Referring to the lathe. Once you find out the distance you need, do you not set the part to zero then move to your dimension? Looked like you set the part in the chuck by eye, then started your adjustments. Forgive the Ironworker mentality!

[@davidgreen2442]

counter bore your parallels and insert a compression spring to hold then apart below the work piece

[@CompEdgeX2013]

Ha, I was sitting here yelling "recheck the zero!" Didnt hear me?? lol I keep trying to visualize what this is going to be like when complete but I'm not seeing it yet... I'll stay tuned.. :-)

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Colin, You have to shout louder. Your a long way off and I'm half deaf. Cheers, Tom

[@MRDAbob22086]

why go .688 out and not 600 i thought you needed to be 300 off center im new at this and takin cnc programing but i run a engine lathe at work and thanks for the videos

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Bobby, When I actually looked at the model it was .344 off the center. Doubling that gives the .688. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@hallo07ify]

is that om7? (aluminum bronze)

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Mats, Good eye. Silicon Aluminum Bronze. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@dennyskerb4992]

Tom, you have to tell us where or when did you here Mr. Wizard ? I'm close to your age and I think it was a cartoon. Thanks 4 the great videos

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Dennis, I can't remember where I picked that one up. I have a bunch more but most of them are not fit for other than adult consumption. A little one slips out once in a while. Cheers, Tom

[@daveticehurst4191]

Two points please. Firstly I am a little concerned about your lathe chuck lifting. Firstly Eye Bolts should be fully screwed down until the shoulder seats. Secondly the way you have the bracket bolted into the tee slot of the chuck. If the bolt should come lose for any reason, there is nothing to stop the chuck sliding off the tee nut. Good video other than that, well done. Question please, what does the plastic drinks bottle do that is fitted to the left hand side of the mill. Is it a home made coolant mister ?

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Dave, Thanks for the comment and concern. The five eighths eye bolts are rated at several tons when fully seated as you mention. The non shouldered models are rated somewhat less that that. I think I'm in pretty safe territory. Bolts and fasteners work by clamping force. If tightened reasonably even small sizes generate huge clamping forces. An example is a 10-24 fastener torqued to 80% of yield generates over 1000 lbs clamping force. I'm feeling pretty safe with my bracket and eye bolt. I totally understand if you are not comfortable doing it this way and respect that. If you want to see the soda bottle explanation check out the FAQ video. All the best, Tom

[@ErikBongers]

I couldn't figure out why you were indicating only along the 2 offset jaws and not on the centered jaws. Surely, while 2 jaws are adjusted for the offset, the two others need to be spot on centered. But then I realized that this is not necessary. If you just indicate the max and min run out of the part, implicitly the perpendicular 'poles' will be centered. They just won't be aligned with the jaws. Realize now that you hinted at that by saying that the part has no orientation, but that didn't quite register with me.

[@jonathanwhite2303]

hay tom got an idea for a project why not build youself a xy plasmer cutter like keith fenner, im sure there must be some basic kits which exclude the metalwork/bed and you could build it yourself? cheers

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Jon, I'm waiting for the waterjet instead. Then I can cut anything. Plastic, glass, rubber, wood. Cheers, Tom

[@jonathanwhite2303]

oxtoolco wow look faward to that, waterjets they are just amazing

[@RyanWeishalla]

Nice video, Tom. In some way, it is "nice" to see somebody with your skills have a little difficulty with things like you did initially on indicating in the offset and seeing how you thought through why it wasn't quite working they way it should and correcting it. Gives us beginners a thought that it isn't easy and to just work on it and learn so you do it better the next time you have to do the same thing. When milling the keyways, when you are trying to take off the same amount on both sides of the center line, how do you deal with backlash on the feeds when moving both directions? Would it only be an issue if the total width of your slot is less than the amount of backlash? Does the DRO help that issue a lot since it isn't affected by the backlash? P.S., hopefully I asked that in a sensible way.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Gopher, The DRO makes it easy. The number is the position regardless of backlash. I was working off a centerline which is what I like to do with wide slots like the one in the video. Thanks for cutting me some slack. Some of these things you don't so every day so when it looks like I'm having trouble I probably am. Everything is possible with the right attitude. All the best, Tom

[@ScoutCrafter]

Awesome!@25:05 How hard was it not to yell "Sweet"! Nice deburring.. Thanks Tom!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey John, Pretty hard sometimes. Ticked me off when I slipped out of the slot. Hate it when that happens. Cheers, Tom

[@Opinionator52]

Hi Tom, What a beauty of a part! And totally cool and wabbley series... Thanks for sharing! :o] O,

[@oxtoolco]

Hi O, Thanks for the compliment. All the best, Tom

[@timothynietenhoefer4373]

Use bent strapping as a spring for the parallels

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Timothy, I do that in the mill but have not tried that in the lathe. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@shilicaso]

Plenty of time to focus piece, could easily help with the tailstock.

[@LikeToMakeTools]

Sweet!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Tools, Thanks for the comment. Best, Tom

[@1jtolvey]

STATUS OF -ETCHING PRESS , FINISHED , SCRAPPED ? PS - GOT YOUR BOOK , THANKS .

[@swarfrat311]

Interesting video, Tom. I do have a couple of questions: First, was this wabble stuff invented by Elmer Fudd? Second, in all the machining catalogs and websites I have seen, I have never seen a lathe chuck with "califragilistic" jaws. Is this something new? A silly Oxen, Dave

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Dave, Callafragilistic jaws are only used in California. And to answer you question on the inventor its was Wiley Coyote that invented the wabble. Please do your research before commenting. All the best, Tom

[@swarfrat311]

oxtoolco Let me guess . . . Wiley got the parts for the wabble from Acme Supply. Dave

[@Ron_EZ]

Tom, it would appear that your mill drinks Shasta Cherry Cola? LOL! Do you get that many burrs in your shorts?

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Ron, That is the tank for my mist coolant system. Cheap containers! Thanks for the comment. cheers, Tom

[@user-xb8kv9sb3j]

Good