OLD VERSION, SEE THE UPPDATED INSTED European VS American building methods, let's compare...

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It's strange how we build the same things but in such different ways. I am in Scandinavia and uploading videos of my house building, It turns out that we build completely differently compared to Americans and Canadians. This video addresses some of the differences so we can learn from each other. This is mostly for fun and absolutely no criticism in any way.
✧𝗕𝘂𝘆 𝗯𝗹𝘂𝗲𝗽𝗿𝗶𝗻𝘁𝘀 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗽𝗮𝗿𝘁𝘀 𝗹𝗶𝘀𝘁 𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗵𝗼𝘂𝘀𝗲!✧
I have created detailed SketchUp CAD drawings and parts list of the house and furniture's available for a small fee. It took me a long time to make the drawings and if you buy them you support me and my house. read more here: mindsparx.org/shop/ , Thank you!
Ways to donate to me and my project:
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[@buller636]

I'm a full time carpenter from Denmark, and working in Denmark too. The vapor barrier is properly the most important thing in the whole house. With the moist weather we have the north, the barrier keeps the build healthy. If you build a modern house in Denmark and skip the barrier, there will in 9/10 cases be fungus in the walls which are very dangerous. So I was so happy when I saw you putting it up in your house, in Denmark we use it in all places, floor, walls and celling. Awesome video and great work, keep it up!

[@attekotiranta1598]

Isn't the vapor barrier on the warm side of the insulation and therefore protects the warm and moist air from inside getting to the insulation? When living in a warm climate and use AC to cool inside then warm and moist air from outside will condense on the vapor barrier so it is installed on outside wall instead.

[@kasperpedersen9192]

Full time carpenter in DK here as well. Having a vapor barrier is required when using mineral whool insulation, such as Rockwool or Isover, because the material is not able to transport water, but only move vapor through temperature differences and venting it away at the surface. If you use organic fiber materials for insulation such as wood or grass fibers, you only need to slow down the vapor. A thumb rule is that the inner membrane has to be 10x more closed than the outer membrane for vapor to be correctly transported through the construction.

[@buller636]

@@attekotiranta1598 the barrier is placed 2/3 in the construction so only 1/3 of the insulation is on the "warm" side of the barrier. So if its 300 mm totalt you would place it 200 mm inside the construction. With that, the cold air from the outside cant reach the warm side and condensate in the building. It is also a key function in making the house air tight, which make the house more economic and "green" to heat up. In Denmark we have strict rules of how much energy a building can release through the construction, so a proper vapour barrier is needed in wood houses. If you make a brick or concrete house the finish on the inside will make the house air tight. So you are correct.

[@Patrik6920]

about Vapor barrier 1. Different fungai and bacteria, 'molds' and so on prefere certain moist conditions. 2. Maxumun relative air humidity rises with temperature, the maximum ammount of water that air of a certain temp can hold 3. in varius places ther will be a big difference in temperature during a normal day, -the potential for maximum air humidity varies. 4. the vapor shield prevents warmer air with higher water content to go to a lower temperature enviroment wher it could potentially vaporate. 5. a standard in say denmark, may actually be very bad in egypt due to differences in temperaturs during a normal day 6. normally in denmark or sweden u need to keep it warm inside...its usually alot colder outside, in a warm climate...its the opposite 7. knowing the normal variences over a day, at what rate the material can transfere moist, temperature (delta) and other factors one can normally calculate where the likely vaporation point is...but thers usually standards in different areas where its already calculated (its a bit hard without all data) conclusion: use the standards and best practices for the area, if thers no standards...ask the local builders..or in worst case u need do the math urself... Edit: one mor thing...hot air (with higher potential maximum humidity) travels easy to a colder area (wher it can evaporate)..getting moist from a cold area to a warmer is harder...so moist have a tendecy to build up if this is messed up...

[@BilldalSWE]

​@@kasperpedersen9192 The discussion isn't so much if you are to use a vapor barrier or not in a regular new house. Pretty much all people do. The issue is summer homes or guest cabins which are not always kept warm in the winter. Then the vapor barrier might cause moisture problems on days where it's colder in the house than outside. The solution is a two way "vapor break" or Class III vapor retarder with a perm value of around 5 (Icopal Monarvap SD5 or Halotex D50 etc.) It will stop most of the moisture from getting into the wall but not retain it in the insulation like a regular barrier would in some conditions. These are also used in extentions of old buildnings since it's impossible to get the old part of the building sealed with a vapor barrier anyway.

[@finntexbuild4809]

As a Finn, living and building in US I also had building experience in Finland too, I have to say your observations are mostly correct. The biggest difference is the speed of construction with stick build method. I would have no problem to live your build house as long as you have a sauna there 😂. Looking forward you 2nd episode. 🤠🇫🇮

[@mindsparx1]

I was born in Sweden but only have Finnish relatives. As a child I was in Finland a lot and the houses are identical to Swedish. And i have had saunas in all my houses, it's a must.

[@jonas242]

Is a house without a sauna, considered a house in Finland? ;)

[@mindsparx1]

@@jonas242 haha

[@SergeyPRKL]

@@jonas242 Ei. ;)

[@adamwalker7338]

As an American living in Sweden i am still trying to figure out what these guys are doing here.

[@SuperFkv]

New subscriber from Denmark . Lovely video

[@wessmasseymusic3922]

I like the idea of the vapor barrier on the interior. Allowing the insulation to dry on the outside is very effective

[@mindsparx1]

WARNING! Someone is spamming my channel with a message saying that you have won a package, it can look something like this "Thanks for watching and commenting Awaiting gift for you......🎀🎀...... Message me on Telegram to claim your package📦." Please don't answer them, its a scam, i would never ask for anything like this here in the comment section. Thanks to all of you who comment, This is educational gold. I'm trying to read all the comments but there's a lot coming in. All of you who are studying to become builders should read below, very good information. Even with my 30 years, I'm learning a lot. To all of you in the US, I was unfair in my views. I understand now that you have to deal with all climates and that a standard is not possible, but I will make notes and will try to cover it in part 2 which will come around the summer when I have come a little further, thanks once again to those of you who comment.

[@joansparky4439]

on your question regarding vapor barriers in walls and where and if one is needed - look up 'perfect wall' by the building science corporation from the US. The gist is - in most climates where humid warm air can meet a cold surface (no matter if this is inside/outside or the other way around) for several weeks/months a year you want a vapor barrier at the side of the humid warm air and the insulation on the other side of that, to prevent condensation within the structure/insulation. The problem in the past was that errors had been made in applying insulation/vapor barriers in the wrong order for the climate zone one was in - esp in the US. Some insulation materials do both things at once, but one needs to be careful with overlapping. But yeah, look up 'perfect wall', I'm sure you'll be amazed. _PS: for your climate-zone you seem to have your VB correctly installed, on the inside of the insulation. Your outside is mostly dry air and colder than inside.. so your humid air from the inside will not be able to leak into the insulation and condensate there, causing rot._

[@spayderninja]

Not only do people in different regions have to deal with different climates, but they have different seismic requirements for earthquakes, and different politics and economics. Some places, it's normal to have to bribe officials to get anything done. Some locations, wood or other materials may be very expensive and brick and concrete may be much more economical. Some places have to deal with frequent fires, and wood may be the last thing you want your house built with. It also depends on what everybody else is using. You want your house to fit in with your neighborhood. Some locations might be great for container houses.

[@Carl_John]

Just the fact that you're the only one doing the framing of the house is nuts! So amazing...

[@JuhaErkkila]

Just amazing content! Cheers from Finland!

[@MrBratalis99]

Cheers from Denmark. Fascinated by your skills

[@andrewtiefry5990]

As a former carpenter in the US I find many things you have done in your video superior to how we do it here. I am going to be building a new cabin this year and plan on using some of your techniques

[@Omili]

There is reason why Finnish, Swedish and so on are wanted building designers in the world. We are building all around the world. Ofc it costs more but people who want quality house that will last generations, it's worth the money. And if you ask Finn or Swe there has to be also sauna with wood fireplace included in that building or separate building in the yard.

[@timoruohomaki]

@@Omili And if you ask any Finn or Swede over 10 years old, they can tell how the ventilation is supposed to work in the sauna...

[@jeffjefferson2676]

The OSB behind plasterboard indoor walls look like something that is pretty good. The plates at the top of the wall could work, but if these planks fall off, the house will collapse. With the double beam, that can not happen. Greetings, Jeff

[@kaneworsnop1007]

@@jeffjefferson2676 how would they fall off without serious damage to the building that would have rendered it uninhabitable?

[@jeffjefferson2676]

@@kaneworsnop1007 No clue, but i suspect that is why they made it so. Have you seen the old houses you can buy in the US sometimes? In states like that the roof may collapse. Greetings, Jeff

[@Norwegianvideos]

As a norwegian and amateur builder I also find it funny how different we build houses. But I do agree with OSB behind plasterboards, it gives more strength for fasteners and helps fastening the plasterboard. Also the way we do electrical wiring, I cringe when I see spray foam on an electrical cable on US videos, “What if the wire is damaged during construction or if it fails, how do you replace it” always go through my mind. I love watching your videos, can’t wait for the next one. God jul og godt nyttår fra andre siden 😊🎉

[@mindsparx1]

Tack, gott nytt år till er med :)

[@Skjaeg69]

funnily in denmark plasterboard is nearly dead. mostly used for cost saving or large flat surfaces. instead cement board is the new hottness since with one layer, glued edge to edge is stronger and faster than 2 layers of plasterboard, and has the roughly equivalent strength of OSB and plasterboard for screwing into etc.

[@Helveteshit]

@@Skjaeg69 What is the Fire rating of Cement boards?

[@Skjaeg69]

@@Helveteshit i know that one layer of properly glued cement board is equivalent fire rating of 2 layers of overlapping plasterboard

[@Helveteshit]

@@Skjaeg69 Are we talking about standard plasterboard then? Since that one, I know is 30 minutes fire rating. But there is plasterboard with up to 120 minutes in a single layer.

[@LoicDesiron]

Hi, architect from Belgium here appreciating your video a lot I can answer to the need for a vapour barrier/smart film. The inside air always carries more moist as the outside air(yes even when it's raining). It is also always warmer and thus inside Aire will tend to migrate trough the walls, as it does so The temperature drops throughout the insulation and when it hits the outside boarding it condenses and will lead to water damage. This is why you need vapor barrier. it seems to ma that you don't have slabs for connecting your barrier with the window frames, which is a no no in Belgium.

[@johnallain8083]

Hey, thanks for sharing

[@Bollalillo]

The fact that you did all this yourself is extremely impressive! Very inspiring and informative, thank you

[@nelsonsommerfeldt]

I'm an American living in Sweden in the planning process of building a home in Kiruna. This video is so helpful to understand some of the reasoning behind the techniques. Pretty bonkers the first time you see an exterior wall with only wind paper (Tyvek) on the outside. But thinking about moisture management, it makes so much sense to have the sheeting on the interior and avoid that condensation surface outside. Installation walls are super awesome. The hammarband is cool too. Feeling much better now going into the discussion with building firms, thanks!

[@mindsparx1]

Kiruna? that's hardcore...

[@Denamic]

Oh neat. That's my hometown. I've probably been where you're gonna live. Hope you like snow.

[@nelsonsommerfeldt]

@@Denamic We do like snow, our hometown in Michigan gets 7-9 meters in a normal year, so this is a bit easier even. Colder though, takes some adjustment. We are right on Torneälv (Laxforsen) so it is usually colder here than the surrounding area.

[@Mike_H76]

@@nelsonsommerfeldt Due to your use of the measurement unit Meter, your Americanship status has been permanently revoked. As of this notice, you will have 30 days to surrender any and all firearms, Mallomars (or similar hyper-sweetened desserts), and all pairs of Crocs or flip-flops in your possession. Failure to comply will result in an egregiously inflated fine that will be used solely to continue operations of the US Fining People Committee. Thank You. Wish you all the best, Swede. 😁😝

[@Mike_H76]

@@nelsonsommerfeldt Dear Nelson, due to your spelling of METRE in a non-European fashion, we regret to inform you that you will be required to resubmit any and all plans, contracts, licenses and applications with European corrected spelling. Thank you kindly The EU

[@dangdiggity9916]

im glad you showed bending screwes as i can only imagine 90% of the comments sayins screws will snap if you didnt :p

[@samueleliasson3743]

Great video! I would say that the OSB on the inside and not the installation takes care of the shear loads though. //structural engineer from Sweden.

[@gregb3457]

It's fun to watch you build and consider your methods. I have been a builder / architect all of my working life - from age 18 to now, I am 73. I started in the days when cast iron plumbing was put together with oakum and lead; it was my first apprenticeship. Learning from the elders is a unique and valuable thing to do. There was a time in the US when you could not be anything in the construction trades unless you served time working with the elders. I believe it is mostly still this way here; trade schools have replaced some of the on the job training requirements. Your double construction methods are superior, without question. Less holes that penetrate the walls and compromise their integrity is superior, but not always essential. I believe the reason your methods survive and are better is because of the climate - the severe winters in particular. Your house is stronger, and more efficient in the use of energy. Looking forward to seeing more from you. Congratulations on a job well done. Oh yes, your trusses are called "attic trusses" here. Our truss manufacturers know how to make them efficiently and need only be directed. Of course you save money when you make them yourself. They are plenty strong the way you make them, but they have limitations in span / deflection which must be respected. You are right - I LOVE YOUR USE OF ASPHALT BOARD ON THE OUSIDE AND CHIP BOARD ON THE INSIDE. YOU ARE RIGHT, THE CHIP BOARD MAKES UP FOR THE LACK OF STRUCTUAL INTEGRITY IN THE ASPHALT BOARD - the lateral bracing and structural provisions of the interior chip board is very important. BUT THE ASPHALT BOARD ALLOWS THE WALL TO BREATHE TO THE OUTSIDE - it allows moisture to migrate to the outside from the inside, which is essential. APSHALT BOARD IS NOT A BARRIER, IT IS A VAPOR PERMEABLE LAYER, as long as you do not tape the joints, you are fine.

[@mindsparx1]

This was the comment I was waiting for, some wise words from an earlier generation. I am very grateful to have been schooled by your generation. I wish it was as you explained, constructive criticism is the best school. I am renovating the other house I live in and it was built in 1950 and has cast iron plumbing in the concrete floors. I'm just about to replace them, one heck of a job :)

[@seacoconut]

We need a brand name on this Ashphalt board if you can spare a thought please

[@jite1367]

Yes, the asphaboard is primarily used for preventing the wind from getting to the insulation in this case though. Since the inside has a plastic film barrier (to prevent high Rf % air push through the walls) there isn’t any real difference in terms of moisture outside of that plastic film, just different temperature due to heat leakage (which is the whole point of the plastic film 🙂). It’s more common today to use foil like wind protection because it’s easier and faster to install, but yes those ”foils” also breath.

[@johanolsson2207]

One brand of board is "HUNTON" 👍

[@gregb3457]

@@johanolsson2207 USA use to have an asphalt board called Celotex. It was very common. It has gone out of fashion and is harder to find. Basically, construction has taken two opposite paths - 1. extremely cheap and inadequate but makes the developer more profit. 2. extremely tight, with taped exterior sheathing joints on waterproof exterior chip board: the board has a green finish exterior and the tape is black, a kind of rhino tape. The middle of the road, much safer and still economical when the lumber market is sane, is exterior chip board sheathing with a water barrier, tyvek or equal, applied to the sheathing, taped joints. This accomplishes the structural bracing of the exterior walls while also allowing moisture vapor to migrate to the exterior.

[@kennyhoneycutt8735]

I have been a carpenter in the US for about 30+ years I am old fashioned when it comes building (like yourself). Thank you for sharing your video believe it or not I learned a lot from it.

[@gregortidholm]

Nice work and interesting topic!

[@dixonqwerty]

Intressant video!! Ser fram emot nästa avsnitt!!

[@MartinKopecky83]

I worked in Norway for 15 years, often with Swedish guys. I love them, uniq and very decent people with great sense of humor. We did houses same like you. Now I am starting my own house. Little technological mix Norwegian/USA/Slovak.

[@erik....]

As I understood it Norway has a completely different approach, by making the outside of the walls vapor proof instead of the inside like in Sweden. I don't know how this works.. feels like any humid inside air going through the walls will condensate on the outside and cause damage in the walls.. but clearly it works for them (unless I misunderstood completely).

[@thorofnorway3131]

@@erik.... It is the same in Norway as in Sweden regarding vapor barrier (thick plastic 0,15 mm or 0,20mm) it is placed inside. Outside it is common (or regulated?) to use asfalt plate (generally 12mm thick) and wind-protection Tyvek. (Double wind-protection) The seems between asfalt-plates must be taped to be up to code.

[@erik....]

@@thorofnorway3131 Ok it must be some misunderstanding then. I think it's quite common in new projects to use 4.5 or 9 mm Cembrit windstopper boards in Sweden now instead of the asfalt stuff.

[@istrysii]

@@erik.... you never make the outside wall vapor proof becouse then you trap the insulation from getting aired from the outside, and in Denmark you even presser test homes to see if the vapor proof up hold what it need too !

[@radoslavtomov9121]

Both types of buildings are almost alien to how a house is built in the Balkans for example. Here we go with reinforced concrete for the foundation, load-bearing parts, and floors. Bricks are used for the walls and wood is only for the roof structure. Although the fast and modular approach with wood, sheetrock, OSB can be found here and there by some brave souls.

[@Memento-_-Mori-_-982]

In the Balkans we also have to get it ready for war, just in case! Lol

[@tonieja8814]

You are not alone, most houses in Poland are also built this way

[@MartinPotocky]

Czechia is the same when it comes to building houses, although stick-frames do appear more frequently in past 10 years.

[@raptorkravmaga9977]

That's the difference between a shack and a house!👍👍👍👍

[@skwtf]

I've been wondering about why we *have* to build them so solid? Why are wooden houses not good enough for Balnkan people?

[@falltheman]

Nice video! Looking forward to more content

[@fox5665]

Construction student in Sweden! Vapor barrier is very important because vapor in the air may condensate in the wall without it in cold climates!

[@BrianKasenLFP]

Great presentation and very useful. Been building in US for better part of 40 years and would very much consider incorporating your wall system in my next home adventure. Can't wait for part 2.

[@ydnark83]

It's unlikely that would pass inspection for you, it wouldn't for me in Canada for several reasons. I explained why in a comment

[@MrTudenom]

I’ve noticed over the years that a lot of people become orthodox about their particular approach without understanding why they’re doing what they’re doing. Anything outside of what they were taught becomes heresy. It’s such a shame, we could all learn a thing or two by simply having an open mind. I’m a Northern Canadian and a draftsman and have some experience with Passive Haus design and I’m really starting to appreciate very thick (by North American standards) walls with a lot of insulation, just like your example. Thank you for your video, I learned a bunch of interesting things.

[@edialbert8035]

Thank you for sharing! I liked and subscribed. Greetings from Sweden.

[@terok85]

Very nice video.. Hello from Finland.. same methods / stuff applies in Finland too.

[@lukakajinic3371]

In Croatia and in the balkans we mainly build houses out of hollow bricks, there are not many houses out of wood. But as they are much cheaper than brick houses they are becoming now more and more popular here. As I can see in my city nearby Zagreb, 10 years ago 9 out of 10 houses were brick houses, now its 5 out of 10 only. Love to see all those styles of building. Great video!

[@caliwator]

Jag som ör helt ointresserad av husbyggen tyckte faktiskt detta var intressant! Kul att se att det inte är så svårt att bygga själv. Och kul att se skillnader mellan andra länder.

[@sampsonike]

In Estonia I have see vapour barriers. But we use something resembling construction paper. Supposedly it allows moisture to pass outside but it will block it coming in.

[@PavelSkollSuk]

Few interesting ideas. Thx.

[@MadGerman]

I’m a German carpenter and used to work with the 2m ruler only. But after 3years in Australia I’m carrying both with me now. The ruler in my pants and the tape on my belt. Couldn’t really let either go 😅

[@dallasmandy]

🤣

[@tonygristina4860]

Two rulers? That reminds me of the old Westerns gunslingers in the US with two pistols. It also reminds me that our ancestors built the Pyramid of Giza using their forearms (the cubit) as a measurement guide and made the sides so accurate that we still cannot measure them directly ( the closest measure is done with linear regression )with the accuracy of the installation.

[@ektaron]

Same thing. Only I carry a Tajima tape (in various lengths) and a 1 m custom Swiss folding, which goes into @Snickers Workweak or @Engelbert Strauss pirates.

[@aladarmezga4942]

Same here in Hungary. Most of the working pants sold here have a dedicated pocket for the folding ruler on the side, we call it "colstok". And I carry a 5 or 10m tape measure in the belt for the longer stuff

[@georgsiefkes593]

Now - that's interesting. The older guys in Germany still call it "Zollstock". Zoll refers to the old measurement which is roughly an inch and "stock" is a stave or stick what the Zollstock originally was

[@whatthef4222]

Great idea for a video!! I'm an American who has lived and worked as a carpenter in Sweden for over 30 years. You pointed out many differences that I hadn't really thought about. I've also had the same thoughts regarding the hammer band. In my opinion the hammer band is totally superior to the header system that is used in Michigan. Sooo much easier. Thanks for doing this video. Well done!!!

[@timkickinkuiken]

I love that do it yourself attitude

[@SurvivalGirl]

you are the best👍💖

[@user-rv6hk1wt7h]

det är roligt att se hur alla hus är byggda i sverige, det är väldigt stressbefriande att se dig bygga huset. det ser jättefint ut hittils och jag längtar till att se fler uppdateringar på huset! ha det bra :D

[@elwindewitte]

Built an extension to our Swedish holiday home last summer and did quite a bit of research beforehand as we're both not carpenters and come from the Netherlands, so there's hardly any wooden construction. Glad to see we got most of it right/the same! Expect for the asphalt boards on the outside and OSB behind the plaster boards. Those installation walls were super useful!

[@felixmikolai7375]

good to see that u still be able to build your own house mostly yourself on paper, as far as i read me in, ive been shocked how much paperwork is involved... fuck that -.- i plan to open my own farm in the middle of nowhere, such a shame that ppl still think their alloud to tell me how thick or not thinck my walls must be and stuff.. -.- thanks for your help

[@KoeiNL]

I find it fascinating that so much wood is used in building. You don't see that at all where I'm from. Its all brick and concrete here. We don't use OSB boards behind walls because the walls are made from concrete.

[@deadlyicecream1]

very interesting video. I'm a carpenter in Denmark, and we do everything as you described as well.. Here it's required by law to use plastic as a barrier inside, it still has some controversy, as you need better ventilation, to avoid rot inside the home, before the houses could breathe, with the plastic layer its only the outside that can regulate moisture, though i think its very important, as there won't come moisture from the inside, and simply trapping it. I personally most like the foldable ruler, but my 5m measuring band really comes in handy, in a lot of cases. I really like the way, you single handed mounted the rafters alone. Defiantly something i will take with me.

[@j0rtje]

The vapor barrier is needed because of the temperature difference between the inside of the house and the insulation. If the insulation is colder than the inside of the house, the vapor can condensate in the insulation making the insulation wet and less effective. In the Netherlands its common to have a vapor barrier on the inside (like you do) and a vapor permeable film on the outside. Good luck finishing your house. I really enjoy watching your journey and I learn a lot from it.

[@mindsparx1]

good explanation, thank you.

[@dare2beam]

In cold climates the barriers should be placed on the inside of the insulation, as the condensation (or DEW) point is in the insulation layer. When I studied it (In Denmark) we used a software to calculate the thermal properties of the wall and the dew point, then as a rule we would design the wall so the condensation point always is inside of the insulation layer itself. You did a "textbook" classic build ! The vapor barrier will make the house very much air tight as well. It will perform quite well in a Blower Door test. I see only benefits in using the vapor barrier

[@izoyt]

@@dare2beam this is practically standard in whole eu, at least ii more inland areas. and it will only get even more complexed, since eu regulation standards about energy, recycling etc will demand more insulation, more recycling, more material certification etc. as an architect, i would like to see more about your paperwork procedure, what is needed for building and residential permits, what material can be used, specially when doing diy etc.

[@numeroVLAD]

Good explanation. I would only add that warm air may carry more moisture than colder air. So if a warm air touches something cold dissolved moisture condenses and makes everything wet. It’s the same process that makes rain. Moisture barrier is a must to keep warm air away from cold surfaces. But never double moisture barrier as it creates sh1t sandwich that does not allow water to dry out.

[@petterr1996]

You are absolutely correct, but there is one other point to consider. The mineral wool or glass fibre wool gets permanently damaged by becoming wet. So having water condensating will over the years kind of "rot" your insulation. But you don't need it if you properly plan for it. If you use natural insulation materials like wood fibre or hemp fibre mats which allow for water vapor diffusion AND are able to transport water by capillary action (something mineral/glass wool can't) AND don't take permanent damage by little amounts of condensated water you can get away without a vapor barrier. Some argue that allowing your (natural) insulation to communicate with your inner walls improves air quality. If you build without this vapor barrier, you do however have to make sure there are no air drafts trough the wall as this will impact your energy consumption.

[@timstradling7764]

I am a builder / surveyor in the UK for over 40 years, and where stud (stick) built houses are constructed a vapour membrane is essential. Except in very few days in one of our ‘normal summers, the outside air humidity will be lower than that inside the building. Airborne water vapour will migrate from a high concentration to a low concentration ie from inside to outside, though it can condense in the wall thickness as the temperature falls towards the outside. This is called ‘interstitial condensation’ and results in wet insulation rotting timber work and a reduction in insulative efficiency. Foil backed plasterboard (sheetrock) may be used on external walls / ceilings, but can cause Faraday Cage symptoms interfering or stopping WI-FI signals ! I really like the interior battening out for tertiary skin to give a services void, and have used it here for lightweight upward extensions and at an old house we have in France that we have Drylined with insulation backed plasterboard. The old adage ‘Horses for courses’ comes to mind. If you have a tried and tested method for your climate and materials availability, run with it.

[@michaelmayo3127]

Internal vapour barriers are important and their purpose is to stop vapour produced in the house's living area, by human activities form not defonding=(vapor deposition) thorough the buildings construction, from the inside. However, consideration should be give to the control of the inner climate. Here air to air heat pumps are very effective.

[@torylva]

As my dad, who worked in construction for several decades, put it about vapour barriers. It can trap moisture inside, sure, but it keeps it out. If it is a wet summer, the moisture in the walls will push the insulation down and you will have drafts and cold spots in just a few years. So yeah, if it is badly done, it is a problem, but if it is well done, it is great.

[@fortuna7469]

Ten years ago I built a summer cottage with my dad here in Finland. He is an amateur who learned all his skills from his father. He builds by himself and with no protection, just like you. When we were insulating the cottage, it was tough on the lungs and eyes. I took care of protecting myself but dad did not. For me this video brings good memories from my time with my dad at the construction site.. He was always so happy there, and in no hurry. The most important thing was to do a good job and build well.

[@walterashley149]

Really enjoyed the video, Instant subscription.

[@christerlundgren3805]

Been carpentry here in Sweden 30+ now. Worked some years abroad, Norway, France and in Holland. Had some intresting aha's and diffrent opinions with arcitects in these countries. Hollow bricks is frequent in many countries. And one french arcitect was not convinced that woodframe and insulation was as good as good as hollow bricks. He just couldnt get his head around that its a moneysaver in the long run. Heat and cold is stopped by insulation with a vaporbarrier. Electricity is expensive, really expensive in France. But he only saw the initial cost. "impossible the sell, no profit at all" I built a couple of houses there and invited him to see how we do, the time it took and he compared with his own projects. He looked a bit surprised... Seen a lot of vids on northamerican carpenters building, 'stolen' some ways how to do things easier. The day i stop learning its 6 feet down.. Good vid 👌

[@Rabbiturtacorn]

It's pretty awesome to see the differences between scandanavian and US homes. I don't know if my state would even allow us to perform the framing construction in the same manner as you do here in this video but, I would love to build like this. I feel like the home would hold up better and cost less overall and over the lifetime of the home.

[@HamiltonMechanical]

I'm an electrician, and i totally approve of the installation wall lol :)

[@wunwuntew]

Swedish entrance doors on residences swing outward, not in. To mitigate the effect of wind, people install devices that translate to "door brakes". That way, every time a strong gust of wind rips the door handle from your hand, blowing the door kaFOOM back onto the house, utterly destroying your door brake and nearly ripping the door from its hinges, you can run down to the building supply store, drop about another 30 bucks on another new door brake, and chit-chat with your neighbors. Some places even serve free coffee.

[@PawelJimmi]

mineral wool performs worse when it has increased humidity. This foil is there to delay the passage of water vapor into the wool. Ventilation gap under the façade and under the floor is to drain moisture Use mouse/rat protection!

[@DutchBatNL]

Very nice/interesting video. It's NOT a race between the continents but what can we use/learn from each other! Thank you!

[@samadwork1598]

Been living in Sweden 12 years now and without a doubt the whole world should learn from Swedes. Everything here is built on simplicity and longevity. Me and my father built a garage here 50m², most of the work done by us, roof tiles, isolation, windows, walls, ground work. Cement and frame ordered from 3rd party businesses, those fellas were very effective. And the building technique was almost identical to yours. Me and my father were raised on bricks, everything was built out of bricks. My father wanted to buy bricks but I stopped him because wood is so much simpler and perfect for the climate. We are very happy that we went with the Swedish standard. Toppen video!

[@thornyback]

What I appreciate most about the Nordics is that they tend to put people first, not profit.

[@MARiordan]

Great video - very interesting! I live in southern Brazil. Modern middle-class houses here are almost all concrete structures: slabs, pillars and beams all made of reinforced concrete. The walls are then filled in with bricks. Local builders would have no idea of how to make a wooden house! Having said that, some local lumber yards offer cheaper prefabricated wooden houses as kits and then come and put them together onsite. I think wooden houses are more susceptible to insect damage in the hotter climate and that is why concrete is preferred.

[@stefflus08]

One of the best examples of scandinavian building sturdiness is in the youtube video of the Alta landslide. I'd like to see an american house take that beating without breaking as it's swept out to sea.

[@joegann3375]

Great video, thanks for taking he time to walk thru your explanations in detail. I have been in the electrical construction trade for 43 years in Silicone valley in CA and appreciate the small tricks yo7 apply to make your tasks smooth and efficient. Please keep up the good work. Now for the safety nag: eye and fall protection. Not using either would risk us not being able to enjoy your continued series🙂 Again, Thank you for sharing,I look forward to the next one. Joe

[@KD-sl3ve]

I am in the US and have nothing to do with construction, but I am starting a woodworking hobby. I inherited my grandfathers hand tools that he used to build his house just after WW II. There were two folding rules in his tool chest. I really like using those instead of tape measures.

[@Tyiriel]

As soon as I saw that red shack at 1:46, I knew exactly which country we were in

[@zaknefain100]

I really like the electrical installation 'wall' with the stand-offs. Really nice, clean solution that you can easily design around when incorporating. Makes getting to the wiring so much easier. Here in the states, wire is run 'in' the walls, which means, splitting and tucking wiring in insulation, drilling holes, just a lot of unnecessary labor IMO.

[@mattlewandowski73]

I recently saw something about UK construction I think we should also adopt. They run pipes and conduit along the top several (I do not recall the number) of inches then drop down to the needed fixture. (from what I understood of the video they do this for electrical water, and gas) in this way, unlike the US where pipes and wires crisscross throughout the wall structure, they know AN AREA where these items will exist just by walking in a room and looking at the wallpaper. ("there is an outlet there, so the wire will drop within so many inches of it from the headers and a faucet over there, so a pipe will be dropping down near it") in my bathroom alone, there are wires running horizontally at 3 different levels that I know of, and I have not torn out all the walls yet as well as pipes coming out of the floor, out of the ceiling, and running horizontally in the middle of at least one wall and criss crossing around the ceiling to service multiple locations above (it was "interesting" just replacing one bathroom fan that had a bearing go bad and reducting it to the outside because a previous contractor or home owner had just ducted it into the space between floors (I do not want to know how much of a mold problem I could not see)).

[@reinhard8053]

@@mattlewandowski73 In Germany there are exact rules in which areas cables are allowed to be installed, and only in 90° directions. You still find older houses where somebody messed it up (diagonal route). Don't know for pipes, but probably similar. In Austria we have mainly tubes for the cables often inside the concrete or brick walls. In Germany they usually burry the cables inside beton and plaster. To me not understandable because every damage or change needs the walls to be opened up.

[@jonnenne]

​@@reinhard8053plastic pipes were used in the walls here in Finland but not anymore because that makes it more likely to drill into an wire. In cement etc wires are run in plastic pipes or similar

[@reinhard8053]

@@jonnenne How is it more likely to drill into a wire (in a wooden construction?) if they are inside a pipe ? Chances should be lower, but you would hit several cables at once ? Or is it assumed that the loose wire would just be pushed to the side ? I don't have any experience with this kind of houses, as we always had brick and beton houses.

[@koma-k]

@@reinhard8053 Rigid pipes used to be the norm here in Norway too (our mid-seventies house being an example), but these days corrugated flexible tubes, typically 16 or 20mm, are the norm (and much faster to work with, especially as you'll usually use "preinstalled" tubing with typically 3x2.5mm^2 conductors already in place). In the walls there are rules about how to route them (basically vertically along the studs only), while in the ceiling it seems to be more or less a free-for-all (and if the electricians don't *think* and plan properly, that can create issues later where the tubes cross). But back to the "drilling safety": Flexible tubing will usually just be pushed out of the way, unlike the old rigid system (though being hard and smooth it still takes some bad luck drilling into them).

[@dratilhelvetedotlol]

Loved the idea of the hammarband. I see a few differences from what I´ve seen as a norwegian electrician, but in general it´s very much alike. I believe the biggest difference is that crawlspace foundations is not common practice anymore, at least not in my area (northern Norway) probably due to Radon vapor barrier regulations I´d assume. But, then again, watching the US videos with a shovel-deep trench and a few loose rocks in it actually hurts....

[@theSilvioRoesler]

Wow, such great tutorial - thanks for posting!

[@e1000sn]

The Essential Craftsman often talks about the trade between safety and productivity. When framing the upstairs floor and walls of the spec house this comes up a lot, as did it recently in his garage build.

[@jaanoras716]

I self-built my tiny summerhouse in Estonia in the US-style due to tons of available information on KZbin. And as you said, massive surprise rain ruined my OSB floor. That said, framing on the floor and lifting the wall seems faster, but I would not do it again unless I would have full concrete foundation/floor.

[@DarrenMalin]

I live is Spain. In my house the only wood is the doors and door frames. The main construction is reinforced concrete and Brick the roof is Steel beams and pot and beam concrete with ceramic tiles. all the windows are double glazed with roller shutters. It is a normal average home.

[@Oxiid]

My garage is built in the 70's here in Sweden and the walls are built in a strange way. The walls consists of horizontal boarding (Fjällpanel), Asphalt board, insulation and drywall. No air gap between the boarding and the asphalt board, no vapor barrier behind the drywall, CC between studs gap between 32-56cm and the boarding is placed ~5cm from the ground. When it rains the water is bouncing on the ground up under the boarding making the asphalt board and sill wet. We bought the house with a clean inspection from Anticimex in the spring of 2022 and when we moved in early June we noticed a heavy mouldy smell. I'm planning to re-do the sill- and wall construction this year. Thankfully it's just the garage....

[@2SoftCore]

Great video. Danish electrician here. In Denmark we actually don't do wiring in tubes anymore because it's very time consuming. Since money means everthing now a days, costumers are usually not willing to pay for tubing and are chosing cabels loose in the walls and ceilings. If a cable gets damaged it's a hassle but that is very rare. Thanks for the content swedish neighbour! keep it up.

[@mindsparx1]

Thank you for leting us know, maybe a good idea to let the customer decide...

[@rfauske]

Why dont you just do prewired tubes ? Thats mostly whats used on new construction here in Norway atleast.

[@mindsparx1]

@@rfauske most of the wires are prewired

[@2SoftCore]

@@rfauske That helps a bit about the time but are still a longer process than cables cause of the tubes being soft and wonky. The company I work for have tried it, but it was hard for 2 electricians to wire a whole house in 1 day (house made of soft concrete). We must not use more than 1 day, maximum 2 days if the house is big.

[@rfauske]

@@2SoftCore ahh, I can see that. I was mostly thinking about wood houses. And not about that the time issue is so crucial.

[@richardrekedob962]

Our screws are not like nails and will break, so we don’t use them on the framing but mostly on the sheet rock on the interior. We used black board for many years but not anymore because people want to completely sealed house which tends to help mold to form from the lack of air movement! I have done construction and fire smoke and water damage restoration for 40 years. I have lived all over the U.S. and building codes are different all over . In rural areas you don’t need permits for anything except the septic system eg:Arkansas. But in the entire west coast you need a permit to breath or to cut a tree . Some times you need permission from all the neighbors and it can take years to get an environmental impact study before permitting. But in the rural south very little is needed !

[@radix23]

it's an overgeneralization to say "our screws will break". You can buy structural screws anywhere in the US, you just need to actually get the right ones!

[@benghazi4216]

As an engineer, that actually was taught how to calculate the transmission of vapor/humidity/water through the construction, I am shocked that people debate if the vapor barrier is needed. It really really is, no matter where you build. If you build in the rain forest, you should use it too, but on the other side.

[@brianweber1973]

I have a house here in Sweden needing A LOT of renovation! The original was constructed in 1940. There was an update done to the kitchen about 1960 (a "maid's room" was removed to create a larger kitchen space). An addition was added to the house about 1979. It was very poorly configured and constructed. A lot of plumbing problems & mold in the bathroom. Watching your videos is giving me a lot of ideas & understanding as to why certain things were done and how they were done; none of it good! So, I will keep watching and taking notes. I hope to learn a lot more! Thank you!!! 🙂

[@lukedorey]

In Australia we nail studs and joists so they can move as the wood drys without shearing like screws. This was especially important when we used to build with green soft tas oak that hardens and twists alot in the wall.

[@grouchogroucho7743]

So true - lots of older style homes were actually made to have a little "movement" to cope better with temperature changes and timber drying out. But with the crazy price increases for all types of timber in Australia over the last 24 months, I predict houses built with timber framing will be much less common for the next few years.

[@calebfuller4713]

@@grouchogroucho7743 But have you looked at the price of bricks and labour for laying a full masonry wall? 😄

[@TheJonasLinde]

As a non-builder Swede, dreaming of building a energy efficient house one day, having watched hundreds of hours on youtube on how to build your own house mostly done by Americans, I’ve just realized that I might need to learn the how it’s done by the books in Sweden. Anyone got any tips what to study , read or watch? Installation wall, knew that one. Hammarband, not so much. I’m guessing it must be possible to study by yourself without going to trade school. Great channel! Keep it up!

[@juggeist]

Svenskt Trä provides guides and instructions for almost everything you need with calculation examples for different methods.

[@Ben-iz9ud]

You're going to have a hell of a time building your own house up to codes if you don't have experience.

[@SpaceDump]

@@Ben-iz9ud I'm currently building our own house, with no experience what so ever. Takes time though. :D

[@Ben-iz9ud]

@Anders Olausson its not impossible by any means but just because a house goes together doesn't mean it's structurally sound.

[@scroogemcduck1462]

@@Ben-iz9ud Don't be so afraid Ben.

[@avlinrbdig5715]

My granppa once put down a wooden floor in a garage.. he did not use a vapourbarrier.. that floor quickly turned into a rollercoaster and he had to redo it

[@jackhanafin]

Great video. On the 600mm/400mm centres difference, I will say that a lot of progressive American builders also use 600mm/2ft centres for joists, studs, and rafters - they're usually stacked directly on top of one another to avoid the need for a double top plate, too. This system is often called 'advanced framing', and it's especially popular in sustainability circles due to decreased material usage and greater insulation capacity.

[@ihaveneverwantedto]

I think in the US you can do the 24in center to center stud frame if you use 2x6in boards. Most houses use 2x4in boards and so they’re 16in on center. I’ve never built anything so I could be wrong but I have a normal timber frame house so I’m familiar with some of the concepts.

[@MrGeneration83]

Wiring is a big difference. I visited the New York School of Design some years ago to see an exhibition on construction. I got into a conversation with an American, who told me that the majority of house fires starts because of problems with the wiring and that they have a large amount of fires compared to the scandinavian countries, which also drive up insurances prices.

[@jepulis6674]

They all know the 110V system is stupid because of the high amps but why change? It must be best, as why would they use it if not.

[@thesavagekiwi3492]

Very interesting. As a Kiwi most of these building practices are quite foreign to me, but I can definitely see the merit in them even in a climate such as ours. Thank you for you work on this. Even with the fake voice over it is super interesting.

[@-sleeper-1633]

Not me but many friends are fresh or still learning carpenters. In Denmark Carpenters are thought basic engineering skills, as well as CAD skills.

[@chrischristofis8501]

Great video,in very hot countries such as Greece wooden houses are less common, stone is often used as it has great properties for keeping interiors cool, in mountainous regions most of Europe builds similar to Scandinavians , your videos are a fantastic example of good building practices, America has so many different climates and they have innovative methods but at the end of the day traditional methods work !tried and tested

[@Frendh]

There is pretty much no difference in keeping heat out and keeping cold out. Ventilation differs since the intake air needs to be cooled for hot regions and the air needs to be heated for cold regions. If you have thick stone it takes a lot of time to heat the climate shell and it also takes a lot of time to cool it down. It works since you have hot days and cool nights. Which is why people like to use it in hot regions. Bad in cold regions since both nights and days are cold. Personally I would build a house that works regardless of if it is a cold or a hot region.

[@nathanlonghair]

I have 10 thumbs and will never be building anything myself, but as a homeowner this is still incredibly fascinating and informative stuff, which helps me better understand my home. Great video 👍

[@mahlholm]

😅

[@arrangemonk]

folding rulers are good for stuff between 0 and 3m, never seen a folding ruler longer than 3m

[@justinmccreary3766]

I know in Canada we have bury our piles 6’ down. Below the so called “frost line”. Our houses shift 3” between our hottest and coldest seasons, for instance working residential especially the million dollar homes, we drive them nearly 30’ down.

[@Nachiel]

The use of vapor barrier is mandatory in climates with low temperatures. the bottom line is that moisture from a warmer place (your home) tends to get into a colder one. in the absence of a vapor barrier, the vapor will reach the "dew point" and turn into a liquid state, after which it will inevitably begin to freeze. and you no longer have 250-300 mm of insulation, but for example 100. then the process develops like an avalanche. since we can’t do anything with the dew point, the designer’s task is to move it beyond the vapor barrier so that there is no moisture at its point, which is sure (and not possible, as you said in the video) to scorch.

[@mindsparx1]

good explanation, thank you.

[@kaneworsnop1007]

I wonder why in the UK timber frame structures have the vapour barrier on the outside beneath the cladding, unless it's a different climate thing, or a throw back to when houses were less insulated to the vapour formed on the outside, not the inside.

[@obsidaisy4019]

@@kaneworsnop1007 interesting questions, perhaps it has a different function than a vapor barrier? I imagine a solution like that would cause condensation on the inside of the barrier, a recipe for fungi

[@kaneworsnop1007]

@@obsidaisy4019 from what I've been told I think it's actually to prevent condensation from forming. It's something that I'll have to look into properly.

[@LapinPete]

In Finland they dont seem to require the tubes anymore. However if I was building for myself I would definitely add the. Also water pipes inside a pipe (yo dawg...). 😉

[@mindsparx1]

Ahh yes water pipes in pipes.. i will come to that and blow some minds.

[@kegebase]

If its just the wires you need the tubes as well, but if you use MMJ (usually 3-5 wires bound together in gummy plastic casing) you are allowed to run it free in the structure. Even then it can’t run inside insulation, which is something I often see in American style building videos. The water lines are almost solely PEX plastic pipes that run in protective tubes like you said.

[@jmh7743]

The tubes are still required if the cables go trough insulation. The cable must be installed between the sheetrock/board, not allowed inbedded inthe insulation. Simple cable installation is the most common now. For my self, i use cable for most of the supply lines, and sockets. For lightingfixtures, switches and sockets for home-entertainment equipments etc...i still use tubes. Gives me the opportunity to add or change the wiring if i want to, for example change the lightcontrols.

[@FelicitasMode]

I can just thank you for a nice video. Interesting and clearyfing. 16:19

[@ulfpe]

I designed myself, used some supplier do the needed calculations and got the permit. I completely agree all this is just to feed builders and city officers it offers very little of benefit for the house owner

[@anolbe]

As a previous Norwegian and US carpenter, i find this very familiar. Except that i see a lot of people in the US doesn't use moisture barrier in the walls or the ceiling. Guess it's because there's a lot of states that have the same temps around the year.

[@karlohlen9320]

As a Swedish electrician I must agree that the American way of doing sparky work is INSANE!

[@mrdarber1461]

Oddly enough it's only in residential homes that they don't put things in conduit. Commercial building (at least in my area) requires wiring to but put in some type of conduit.

[@fuckyougoogle1148]

It's simply a matter of cost. In NA, the phrase, "that meets the code requirements" has become synonymous with quality when in fact it only means that the minimum standards have been met. You can certainly use conduit in a residential build but you would pay considerably more for the privilege and would be hard pressed to find anyone other than a commercial electrical contractor willing to do that work.

[@clayjones553]

Why so? Lack of Conduit?

[@buriedalive3192]

As someone studying architecture, the vapour barrier is very important, in temperate and cold climates. The reasoning is: The air's maximum humidity is tied to its temperature. The warmer it is, the more humidity it can contain. Thus, within the house, the air can contain more humidity than the outside, cold air. If there is no vapour barrier, as moisture filled air seeps outside the house through the walls, it has to deposit its humidity if its temperature drops so far that it cannot hold all of its previous humidity. This is especially a problem with insulation, since the temperature quickly drops. There are some solutions though. First of all, careful calculation of the insulation and humidity, so that the temperature doesn't drop below levels where the humidity has to be deposited. (For this reason, it is usually optimal to have the insulation outside of the structural walls in a brick or concrete building.) Secondly, many walls are ventilated, mainly in cases where the insulation is outside. In these cases, a ventilation gap is left out between the layers of the wall. This helps with removing the moisture and drying the wall. (Ventilation is usually used on roofs as well, for this reason) Thirdly, vapour barriers can be used, to block a large part of the humidity. This way the air doesn't have to carry that much, and can cool down without problems.

[@A-Name304]

Wish I had the money to make a house, but there is so much papers and c osts before even starting the build of a house :)

[@manofausagain]

In Australia we use pre fab frames and trusses alot. I just had a house stood by carpenters and they hated me saying if you can measure it you can fix it. Reference being squareness, plum and general measurements. The framers I had were all to happy to build something that resembles a house but not build something like it should be built to tolerance. Guess they didn't realise I was the son of a Dutch carpenter.

[@bobbypettersen1851]

I do agree with you. Have ben working in construktion for nearly 30 years. I am picky. Next gen, every thing is "ish". It's "straightish" , it's "flatish" , it's "thightish" , no pride in the work. Misse good old craftmanship. Some things were bether in the old days. Best regards from Norway.

[@tightbhole420]

don't exactly get paid extra to deal with picky customers.... If you want a craftsman built house find someone who sells that sort of product

[@thrillbilly9785]

Thanks for explaining your methods! It’s interesting to see the differences between your methods versus what we see here in the US.

[@srenhansen3694]

Vapor Barrier is a must with the the kind insulation you use and is also requered by law in DK. If no barrier is used mosture will condensate in the walls and celling and cause the wood to rot. When using vapor barrier the house must be ventilated otherwise moistere will build up inside an cause mold and healt problems. Paper granules as insulation become more and more popular in Denmark. The paper is treated with salt and other Chemical. It is very resitent to fire and moisture and repels mice and rats. Paper granules does not need a vapor barrier.

[@nunyabusyness8796]

As a layperson with dreams of building my own house, with experience from using OSB, I don't think I would ever choose OSB for walls. Plywood has much better strength and screwability

[@anthonystroud1247]

Please don’t change your voice- I love the computer generated one you use. Your vids wouldn’t be the same without that voice. That episode you used more text than voice over, nearly killed me. 😂😂 Love your work… I love seeing the difference of building methods from all over the world on KZbin.. Here in Australia we keep it very simple compared, I reckon. Our frames really only consist of the following- bearers and joists, bottom and top plates, studs, lintels, noggings, sheet or metal bracing, and trusses. The one thing in common we do have though is getting a building permit is bloody hard work!!.. And getting harder!!

[@mindsparx1]

Ha ha, you are the first one ever, who likes the AI voice

[@christhjian9923]

I for one completely agree with Anthony 😃 Much better than text only and I personally don't mind the AI voice at all. Videos flow really smoothly and that's the most important part.

[@martinostlund1879]

• Tried to read all comments, gave up… • AI voice is good, easy to hear clearly. • Building materials reflect what is easily available in the area, timber in the Nordic countries. • Northern parts of Europe is very far north, like Alaska and north of most of Canada. Our trees grow very slow and thus our timber is hard. And we use 45mm thick wood for everything. No need to ever double/triple/quadruple studs. • Our houses are built to last for generations, electric cables lasts about 50 years, we need to be able to re-wire 3 times before the building is knocked down. At least in theory. • We have no problems with insects or termites, as long as the wood stays dry it will last for ever. • I built an extension to our house in 2008, load bearing studs are 145x45 mm, not needed to carry the roof but to have room for insulation. And then another 70 mm across on the outside, for insulation. Vaporbarrier and then 45 mm on the inside for electric and more insulation. Total of 260 mm glass wool in three layers was enough to not having to submit calculations on energy usage.

[@mindsparx1]

"Building materials reflect what is easily available in the area, timber in the Nordic countries." Agreed!

[@alanlight7740]

The electrical wires will last much longer than 50 years, but some of the old type insulation from somewhere around the 1950s or before might have trouble. I've heard of very old knob and tube wiring being in use for over a century. On the other hand, I've worked with wiring from the 1970s that looked like it could have been manufactured yesterday. There might be some issues if the wires are exposed to extreme cold or extreme heat.

[@kenbell7857]

Very good watching. I agree wood behind the drywall.

[@michaeljones6832]

drainage is the key to just about everything building related. double top plates to pick up the load of roof framing members that dont land directly above studs 75mm framing nails for just about everything framing related except brackets no osb unless required for bracing

[@esarge66]

I like the hammer band. My slightly cynical take is here in USA we are in too much of a hurry for notching. In my region, it is customary for a crew of Latinos to frame an entire building in a week and be moving to the next house on Monday! There is now a single top plate style as well. Here in Northwest Arkansas, we put the vapor barrier on the outside. In hotter humid climates the idea is to dry your building from the inside, whereas in northern climates the lower humidity will dry from the outside. Humans in a space create a lot of water vapor and it has to be dealt with.

[@mindsparx1]

I understand what you mean, it looks like this in Sweden, too, and old methods are replaced quickly, unfortunately. Thanks for your explanation with the vapor barrier, interesting

[@mattlewandowski73]

You are not wrong... I have seen a contractor take a hatchet over half way through 2-3 feet of studs in a load bearing wall because they forgot to drill some holes. He claimed he did not realise it was a load bearing (exterior) wall (supporting rafters) when he got called out on it by a different contractor.

[@esarge66]

@@mindsparx1 I would bet an abandoned house would fare better in Sweden. Here in Arkansas, our average humidity is 70 percent! If a house is not heated and cooled, Mold can start in insulation and drywall. and vermin will chew it to pieces. In the northwest corner of this state, the temperature ranges from -17C (once or twice a winter) to 44C during heatwaves, so we have to have good insulation.

[@JakkeJakobsen]

@@esarge66 you can get temperature ranges of -30°C to +30°C in Sweden as well, depending on where you live. Northern Sweden can get comparatively hot during heat waves, but I've also seen -30-40°C in the winter.

[@johnlee7085]

Nice video. Slab foundations tend to be more common where you don’t have to worry about frost depth. The type of foundation can also be influenced by the soil type (clay, sand, organics), as well as seismic loads. Also, regardless of which foundation is used, they should always have drainage. Lots of different ways to accomplish. As for spacing on framing, 2x4’s 16” oc used to be common because it was quick and cheap. As insulation requirements and other factors come into play, 2x6 on 24” spacing is happening more. Similar for horizontal members. Narrower spacing allows smaller lumber. Lots of changes in past decades regarding insulation and vapor barriers. Many older homes had none requiring more heating or cooling. Not as easy to do with less affordable energy. I think where the barrier goes depends on whether it is a predominantly hot or cold climate.

[@youtubuzr]

Local geology and site plan are the #1 determining factor in foundation types. :)

[@lbh704]

Slab foundation is actually very common in Finland, and we obviously do have to worry about frost depth.

[@stevejefferson3929]

Enjoyable video, thanks. You basically captured the thoughts bouncing in my head😅. As an ex English carpenter working 20 years as a Swedish carpenter I can relate to all your info. Waiting until you explain the Swedish bathroom concept. You’ll blow peoples minds! Such a great system 👍. 1st thing that impressed me when moving here was round electrical backboxes (el doser). So much quicker to install drywall

[@mindsparx1]

Look at my latest video, i cover the round electrical backboxes boxes :)