How to - Episode 6 - Install a point motor

[@john-of-the-north]

About 13min in, excellent explanation of how electrofrog point works in terms of wiring and polarity.

[@ralphy46gizzmo]

Ohhhhhh! My error, after reviewing the video over n over i now clearly understand, it was my ignorance, U are using electrofrogs, its just that u further add better constant power so that no matter how dirty the inbetween faces of rail get....u still smoothly get thru..forgiv me for wasting ur time with this i trust ur knowledge n knew that id better review vid, now i got it thanx again to ur great instruction..Ralphy

[@dmu1964]

that was a ace video very informitive and corect..you can drill a hole for the wire that comes off the frog before fitting the point to the basebored,and solder a wire to it under the base bored

[@jeffrigden4790]

Fantastic video, first class presentation. Electrics puts the fear of god into me, but you make it so easy. Keep up the great work. Jeff Rigden

[@adam.goodin]

This just made point wiring and electro frog points a whole lot simpler for me...thank you for sharing.

[@EverardJunction]

Adam Goodin Thanks. It can be a bit of a minefield!

[@EverardJunction]

@ps3nut17 Thanks. I've just had a quick look and the hornby select has 4 sockets on the back. 2 are for the track, the other 2 are a 15v dc supply, you can use that to power the point motors.

[@andrewdenton8510]

Just found your video. Best one going and it now all becomes clear. Thanks for doing it. Andrew

[@ianharman3339]

Brilliant explanation. I'm just starting on a layout and will admit to already using your method for constructing the scenery. I've got electrofrog points but wasn't going to motorise them - however now that i've seen this I think I will - particularly as I intend to weather the track and so will be making the switching contact areas dirty! Much appreciated.

[@EverardJunction]

Yes thats correct. I'm slowly working my way around the layout fitting motors to points that have been in place for over 2 years. As long as the hole is big enough you shouldn't have any problems.

[@EverardJunction]

@slendersausage I did, attaching the wires into the blue crimp blade splicers is wiring them to the rest of the layout. As said 2 wires go to DCC + and - the other 2 are DC + and - to operate the switch. Everyone's layout wiring is slightly different so I focused the vid on the motor itself as this was what most people were asking about.

[@EverardJunction]

@itgamer100 The dcc + - goes to the motor and gives the track power. To make the motor move i use the dc 12v. DCC is AC voltage and must only be used to power the track either directly or through a polarity switch on a point motor. Peco do make points the same size of the basic hornby ones, i don't know if they do electrofrog ones though.

[@JOHNALANKAIN]

THANKS FOR THE POINTS VIDEO AS ALWAYS YOU MAKE IT LOOK SO STRAIGHT FORWARD

[@Gus-jb8cm]

Good work on this layout. It really is coming along very well. 👍😊👍👍

[@robsideshowbob73]

Great video , better than the professional DVDs I've got explaining this , thank you

[@EverardJunction]

I use heat shrink for the connectors. The spades are clamped on using pliers.

[@44662dc]

many thanks for the info.I am not electrical minded but I am following your instructions I am not sure regarding the white wire what you mean or where it goes. I think you do a great job explaining on these vids and look forward to some more many thanks

[@AndyHudson-ModelRailwayBuilds]

Hi Richard first 2 point motors installed easy really thanks to this tutorial :-) 26 more on the fiddle yard :-( to go, will be an expert after this little lot

[@EverardJunction]

@jasonandjoesrailway You would be best with insulfrog points, and would have to use some sort of surface mounted point motors instead.

[@anthony566]

Thanks for putting that together... until now i didnt really understand the peco points so i went with Hornby and put the power clips on them for DCC 99% of my layout is Hornby track.

[@trainrover]

:) Passionate at modelling with a FLAIR for clear and steady presenting .. quel bon homme!

[@lezza1975]

Just starting my lay out. Great vids full of loads of good info. Thanks

[@EverardJunction]

@pyronathanpyro The motors are easy to find, wire is from maplins and the switches are from ebay, they are double throw centre off switches.

[@Whizzer1]

another great video your layout looks very realistic

[@EverardJunction]

@jackabeejackson The best size for the hole is probably about the size of a 1p coin. Then the motor can be mounted underneath.

[@EverardJunction]

The bus wires are the 2.5mm solid core wire you get out or ordinary grey building wire. I bought a reel from a diy shop and stipped the two wires out from inside.

[@EverardJunction]

@gazclass58 Thanks, if you use insulfrog you don't need a polarity switch and the wiring is more simple.

[@EverardJunction]

I get the smaller wire from rapid electronics. The bus wire is the 2.5mm solid core wire you get out or ordinary grey building wire. I bought a reel from a diy shop and stripped the two wires out from inside

[@EverardJunction]

@armleyroad Thanks mate, you only need the insulating joiners at the end of the V coming from the frog. Once those are on the point will work like any other.

[@bloodmarine77]

a very good tutorial video mate.but it seems like to much hard work for me tho LOL!i really like the static grass around the siding of the tmd, i must invest in a grassmaster soon.looking forwards to another update.

[@EverardJunction]

Should do, I think the accessory point decoder works with most point motors.

[@EverardJunction]

I use sprung centre off switches. The 3 terminals on the bottom make on-off-on as you flick the switch.

[@EverardJunction]

I use peco code 100 track as it works well with everything and is easy to use. I would also recommend code 75 as it more realistic, however older models don't work so well on it.

[@MrSteve666999]

understood, but on the same piece of track the very next point seep motor was the other way around ie D to 12+ DCC supply and E to 0V - DCC that totally confused me. Is it to do with which way the polarity switch is sitting (left or right) when you first install it?

[@brianburns7211]

Very informative Richard!

[@EverardJunction]

I don't use a CDU but I do recommend using one. It's unlikely that the CDU will cause the layout to loose power when wired correctly. I'm guessing your layout has a wiring issue somewhere. I would contact the person who built the layout and see if they can help.

[@DeanPark]

Thanks. Where do you buy the heat shrink for connectors? My insulating tape is peeling off already and I only taped it up 2 hours ago! lol

[@williamhawkes7437]

I think for a rank amateur like me the point motors are very daunting especially with all the technical information that you have added in here... what I guess I needed was a very simple...." this goes here, this goes here and that goes there" video.... this is still a bit daunting.

[@44662dc]

Hi love the video very helpful as I am experiencing the problem (livefrog )which you are illustrating. I am running D.C.C. but operate my points DC. Is it possible to do a similar wiring job as you have described

[@EverardJunction]

@hornbyhobby It is possible if (like me) you drilled a hole for the point motor before the ballasting. If you didn't the you can pobably get away with a surface mounted point motor, but i've never actually used one.

[@EverardJunction]

@smithy9148 The seep PM1 is best used with electrofrog, it will work fine with normal points though.

[@timobluetreemodels352]

I have electro frogs and I have now followed your advice, I don't see what difference it could make to cut and then solder new wires to the outer tracks. Surely all your doing is allowing two (correctly polarised) feeds if you don't cut it so, your frog has two chances? It can't short as the polarity switch surely only matches the physical blade?? I think that's right and that way I can run trains before all motors are in... Thanks for your help, great videos!! Always a treat!

[@EverardJunction]

BR Blues Thanks, glad you got it sorted. I still have some points without motors and they still work fine. Just keep them clean and you'll be ok.

[@EverardJunction]

@maxilfli1 Yeah, they are peco code 100 streamline points, you can get them in insulfrog or electrofrog

[@DieyoungDiefast]

I like using 10 way ribbon cable (using 5 of the wires) for wiring the motors. It means I can use different colours for the 2 direction wires and as a plus keeps all the wiring nice and neat. Fold the ribbon in half lengthways at the motor end and use garden twine to tie the cable to the small hole between terminals 'D' and 'E'. One colour for straight ahead and the 2nd for turning.

[@kevinwalton4538]

DieyoungDiefast a

[@kevinwalton4538]

Sorry don’t know what happened there!

[@EverardJunction]

@AdamHorton1234 I use an old gaugemaster controller for power, at present I don't use a cdu.

[@MrSteve666999]

Great Vid and explanation, if the seep motor switches the polarity then you could also install directional signal lights at each point? Steve

[@DeanPark]

See on your switch with the yellow and red wires...do you use black insulating tape at the connectors?, what are those black plasitc sleeves at the joins? I am wiring up lighting for a building and I am soldering the joins and then insulating them with black tape. Also, how did you attach the wires to the spade connectors?

[@TheWoodlandhoBo]

Thank you. You’ve cleared my head 👍🏻

[@bikerides]

Yes most wire like that will do. I have point motors wired using multicore RS232 computer cables which have fine wire in the cables (only meant for signal or digital pulses not power). Over a long run the resistance of fine wire makes the point sluggish due to voltage drop so use thicker wire for longer runs.

[@farmerdave7965]

I like the design of the seeps. I heard of people having problems with them and wonder if you have had any problems.

[@liverkewell07]

Great video am i right in thinking that the 12v on the switch and 0 (c) go to a acceries bus wire?

[@LJbradbury]

Excellent video this is exactly what I want to do, thanks

[@Oli_Timmis]

Hi there. Im fairly young and into N gauge. Mainly modern. I'm just about to start making my layout soon!

[@EverardJunction]

You will have to drill a hole for the point motor. Using a screwdriver you should be able to carefully get the point off the baseboard. I have managed to remove ballasted track without breaking it many times in the past.

[@EverardJunction]

You can put insulating joiners on the frog (as I did). That will let the point work without a polarity switch. You can then wire up all the rest later on.

[@stefanlucassen9307]

Very nice. Can you tell me the name of the switches you have bought. Thanks. I enjoy all your turtorials

[@EverardJunction]

Stefan Lucassen I think these ones are single pole, double throw, centre off switches.

[@ronb2943]

For your main line track what code of Peco do you use and why did you select this code. What are the pros to this code in your opinion. Thanks for you videos, I always look forward to seeing what you're up to

[@french160762]

Hi there Everard Junction Thanks for that I now understand. I am hoping to have a video up onto you tube at the end of feb or the beginning of march and I will thank you in the video for all your help. I will recommend your channel too Thanks for everything Martin

[@josephmeko6238]

When I was doing all the Switch Wiring on my HO Layout, I bought a Spool of Computer Wire with 25 wire's Across the Strip they put a RED Wire every FIVE ( 5 ) wires which makes it easy, First at one end I found the red wire which is five lines, I made a small cut and pulled the wire( to save time you can make your Cuts every 5 wires ) for pulling, you might ask why 5, first off they are easy to find and pull, when I have 5 lines I made another cut at 3 which I used for all my switch's very easy with the Center and two sides for Left and Right with the Center being the Common Line. Very easy as long as you KEEP the Line FLAT, At each end I placed a piece of masking tape with R-C-L at each end, very helpful for LONG Wire Run's, Now with the 2 remaining lines I used them for all my AC lines like Light's and What Not's, and the Computer Wire Comes in Very Long Rolls, which will get you to a lot of Point's, like wiring a Yard and More. Don't let the Price Scare you because you will be getting a lot of wire for you money, and it is totally worth it, in wire and trouble, and Have Fun.

[@EverardJunction]

Joseph Meko PC ribbon cable is very useful, I've seen it used on various layouts. Very useful in complex areas.

[@SimonsShed]

So as long as I drill the hole before fixing the track down (and keep the hole clear of ballast) I could fit the point motors at any time in the future, is that right?

[@EverardJunction]

@MrBenbo96 My 3 way point has 2 switches so you just use 2 seeps.

[@shade19752000]

hey matey I have posted this on a facebook group that deals with model railway stuff. There is a few on there that don't know how to or where to start with wiring up point motors. I have wired up the seep point and berko 2 aspect signals together and be on my layout sometime soon!

[@sparetool1]

HI First would just like to say love the layout and all the vids on here. Just one question on the points i get all the wiring up and how it works i just noticed that half way down the turn out there are two cuts is this to stop a short circuit when the point is changed and one more question on your 3-way point did u use one point motor. Thanks and again great videos cant wait for the next.

[@robbiechandler6062]

Hi, Have only just found your video. I'm about to undertake the task of fitting 19 PM1 point motors, and was wondering what size of cable you use. I've looked on Ebay and it seems that 16/0.2 is sold as normal. Great video very useful. Many thanks

[@EverardJunction]

@MrBenbo96 You could, during this time british rail had a mix of concrete and woodern sleepers on the network.

[@EverardJunction]

You could do that but... You would have to make a bracket to mount the servo under the board. A lever mechanism attached to the point would need to be fabricated. The server would need to be re-wired with a switch and power feed. It has no polarity switch so one would need to be bought and installed along side. Some way of limiting how far the servo moves would need to worked out or it could break the point motor. I would go for tortoise point motors if you want servo like operation.

[@EverardJunction]

@djcharlyc they are made by gaugemaster and they are called seep motors

[@EverardJunction]

I use peco dummy motors. They look quite good.

[@douglaskirk2543]

Have been wondering how to do that. Thanks for the info.

[@EverardJunction]

@T0pper221 The switches are from ebay, they are double throw centre off switches

[@EverardJunction]

It's wired to switch the polarity of the point, If you just want to change the point then you only need to use the terminals for the switch.

[@EverardJunction]

I couldn't see why either. I have left them as standard, all work fine.

[@DeanPark]

do you slide the heat shrink on to the cable and once you've soldered the joint, do you slide it over the connection and heat it?...but heat it with what? Really hope you can help!

[@brianmcaleer3958]

Very helpful video thanks. What did you use to cut the point motor rods after fitting ?

[@TrainMadJames]

Nice Work i'll have to do this when i get a layout up and running.

[@djcharlyc]

Hi, can you tell me the make of points you are using? I totally agree they are far more realistic! I'm just starting out (again) and will be watching your great videos for info. Excellent work Everard Junction!

[@TotallyScaleModels]

once again a brilliant vid, i am using insul frog with hornby point motors but am liking these points and motors. are they peco points ??

[@cech1444]

I'm not sure if you'll know what I mean by what I'm about to say but it's worth a try. Instead of using the point motor, could you put insulating rail joiners on the end of points and wire up the track after it? And if so will this work for both electrofrog and insulfrog? Thanks

[@Kafkabinkles]

Excellent video. One question though: The Peco Electrofrog instruction leaflet says to cut the two small wires on the underside of the turnout before wiring up a point motor or if there are short circuit problems with DCC. Did you do this before you wired up the motor, or can the wires be left as they are? Thanks.

[@quarryjunction-1969]

As always great video Richard. Just one question I dont plan using a switch, I want to use a Lenz LS150 DCC Accessory Decoder 6 Way. Each port has 3 holes. A switch only uses 2 wires how would I wire this please. I pretty much understand the rest

[@jackabeejackson]

Hello Mate, I'm finally getting near the end of soldering droppers onto my tracks and like you, have decided to go with the point motors although I hadn't made up my mind at the start. I will use Seep PM1s as well, but have yet to buy them. Can you tell me please what size hole to leave for the point motor? I've seen motors fitted to the underside of ponts and dropped 'into' the base boards but the holes for these have to be quite large so I would prefer the same method as you. Cheers, Chris

[@EverardJunction]

@bobbysong69 If you are you using dc then terminals D & E of the motor go to the + & - track feed from the controller. All the rest of the wiring is the same. The wire that goes to the centre of the switch and terminal C go to the + & - 12v feed on the back of the gaugemaster controller. Don't use the 16v as this is AC voltage and will not make things work.

[@darrenjohnson1979]

wre do u get the main power from . is it from the two scew type thing that are on the power box ?? some told me that it was 16 volts 1 + 1- becoues i am a newbie to this an i like some workinh lights and frog points but there no one that will tell me on how to wire ,lights for rail yard ,street lamps an other thing plz can u help me if u can or videos on how to do wire thank you i like ur lay out very nice

[@EverardJunction]

Power for the track comes from the DCC controller. Power for lights and other accessories comes from a 12v DC transformer.

[@simoncooper1027]

Hi great video, just a quick question, where do you get you retaining wall from that is also in the background.cheers

[@EverardJunction]

For DC use without a polarity switch you will need to use a Seep PM-2 point motor. You will only need to use terminals A,B and C to get them working. Currently all hornby points are insulfrog.

[@johnc2ful]

great video, do you have the same how to with DCC?

[@EverardJunction]

A bus cable is a wire that supplies power to all parts of a layout

[@bluephantom2044]

I have used a similar way but I use just three wires to the motor as I'm just starting out and won't to get it all going so I have the + and - going to the point motor and then the frog wire and it seems to work I need to switch it by hand but it's working and it allows me to upgrade it in my own time

[@jaannetts16]

nice video i can remember doing my point motors, along job but worth it.

[@Johantheman]

Do you cut the factory wires under the point and connect the moving parts to the outer rails? Most articles say you should. I can't see that it is necessary?

[@bluecoatscheesypoofs]

question. I love those wagons you have behind the class 33. Could you tell me those would fit in a 1960's era or not?

[@jwhful]

Forget to say excellent videos by the way!

[@sydwoods1005]

Richard. can you tell me where you got your scotch locks with the spade fitting on them I have some of the ordinary ones but not those you have. many thanked. syd. keep up the good work. mate syd

[@Railnthusiast]

Hi Everard Junction, Great video, do you have any methods for making the hole for the actuating rod whilst the turnout is in place permanently? I wish I had considered this myself when I started building my layout, because I have always had plans to electrify the switch points on my layout. Thanks R

[@goldie103103]

Might have a go at this when i make my new layout. I hate wiring though.

[@davidgregory4745]

Ok Thanks for that,one more question.The wire you attatched to the frog,I wouldn't need that for DC would I as I'm laying the points for a fiddle yard.That wire makes all tracks live and I don't want that for a fiddle yard. Thanks again David

[@EverardJunction]

David Gregory The wire that runs to the frog is to switch the polarity for DCC. If you are wiring a DC layout I would recommend the use of insulfog points and isolating sections.

[@bikerides]

You can convert the running track to DCC and still use analogue DC for the points. Alternatively you will need to get an 'accessory decoder' to drive the point motors - they drive up to four each, it is then just connected to the power bus - or install a 'district' for accessories (power booster).

[@EverardJunction]

@GreenValleyRailway The switches I use are the single poll, double throw type, I got them off ebay.

[@MrSteve666999]

Thanks for the info, However! today I installed my first Seep motor using electrofrog Peco points and for some bizarre reason my D & E connections on the Seep motor are the other way around!, D is to 0V - to the DCC supply and E is to 12V+ DCC supply.....very strange, took me hours to work it out! lol. I wonder if they have changed them recently?. All woks fine now

[@EverardJunction]

@zaccee1996 2 sets. One for DCC and the other for DC accessory power.