Everest 2011 Gear Prep

[@aksie]

Brilliant video! I’ve followed you for two or three Everest climbing seasons now, and I’ve only just realised you have a KZbin channel! Before I have only heard your voice on the (rather) emotional voice dispatch you sent when you reached the top of Everest, and it’s nice to hear your voice explaining things! Subscribed, and sending love and luck from Dublin, Ireland!

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

Thanks and welcome!

[@jaquezmeov6172]

Awesome video. 1 major concern- please address nutrition! We did the Kala Patar trek in 2009. The biggest problem was food, there simply wasn't enough of it- you need well over minimum of 1 gallon H2o & minimum of 3000 calories of main meals, not to mention snacking in between meals. Thanks to my research and stocking up in Thamel- I packed bags & bags of nuts, dried fruit & cereal bars. Last thing, be sure to have evacuation insurance.

[@kernmw10]

I am so glad I found your channel!!!!! I am going to watch all of your videos.

[@DreamMachineFilms1]

Loved the video. Answered a lot of questions I had. The research continues; thanks again!

[@rva1945]

Great! You could be the perfect guide from Base Camp to the summit.

[@williamkterrell]

Great information. Thank you so much for such an in depth description of what is needed.

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

Kayland 8001 but I have also used Millet and LaSportiva - all good.

[@Rurik8118]

Hi Alan, How do you size your over boots …assuming a specific sock selection for the higher/colder sections ? Size or two up from normal shoe size …thank you for your input

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

First, figure out your sock strategy - one thick, two mediums, liner, or no liner - find what works for you, and be very mindful of your mountain conditions. Crampons transmit cold through the spikes, so you can reduce the real temperature onto your soles by at least another 1-F. As for the boot size compared to street shoes, usually one or two sizes larger WITH your socks. Try boots on at the end of the day when your feet have become swollen due to natural walking and living throughout the day. I wear a street show of 8.5 and my La Sportiva Olympus Mons are 44 or US 10.5. I use one pair of thick Darn Tough socks.

[@Rurik8118]

@@AlanArnetteClimbs I appreciate the advice Alan - Thank you Sir. Any special techniques that you know that work well with sweaty feet ( vapor barrier / keeping liners dry….not frozen solid in AM prior to leaving tent ) 🏕 Thanks again & keep up the videos, they are great 👍

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

Let’s take this offline. Email me

[@maxscriptguru]

Love the videos, and your website rocks too!

[@silverxmaple]

awesome videos on your channel!

[@c.g.c2067]

Just imagine the guys reaching the peak of K2 back in 1954 what gear they were using... :)

[@loulou7963]

Wow 😯

[@ajussiwannabe]

Would you list your equipment including brands and models? Thanks.

[@YogiLigh]

Hi Alen. Thanks for the video. Correction Everest is not an animal.

[@Oculus729]

Alan, great and informative video. What is your bag for the trek through the valley. Or to ask the same question a different way, what is the volume of a trekking backpack you suggest? Thanks. Peace.

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

Craig Houdeshell Thanks Craig, I normally use 40 liter bag for trekking and 70 for climbing

[@MariuelServega]

Hi Alan, I am preparing for island peak Nepal in March or April. Will I need -40 C sleeping bag? the cost between -20 sleeping bag and -40 sleeping bag is quite a lot.

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

Hi Marius, I used a -40 bag when I first started climbing in Nepal but now only use a -20 even in the coldest areas. With two people in a tent, it is warm. I use the Mountain Hardwear -20F Wraith bag. Plus with an excellent pad like an ExPed or Thermarest NeoAir XTherm, you get better protection form the cold ground. Good luck. Have fun. Alan

[@MariuelServega]

Alan Arnette Thanks Alan. I may go ahead with -20 bag as they only cost around 250SGD here and -40 bags comes with a thousand dollar price tag.

[@threat_dynamics3272]

Reliable studies have shown that the human body loses far more heat to the ground than to the air above it. With a sophisticated insulated pad a -20 bag should be ample.

[@sayantanbhattacharya9401]

Thank you

[@ronrico4741]

I'm noticed you're in Colorado, soon I'm moving back there myself (north Denver area) and want to get into mountaineering, what are the good beginner mountains there? What kind of equipment should I buy? Awesome videos

[@gaberodriguez3732]

i would look into the colorado 14ers climbing wise

[@USAdystopia]

Nicely done. Had the same -20 bag until got blown down the side of Mount Hood in Oregon!

[@llewgibson]

Just stumbled across your video mate, absolutely love the content. Subscribed straight away, We should connect!

[@LightningBolt700]

Hi Alan, I just have a question, is it necessary to wear the suit to make it to the summit or can you use a parka with a Gore-Tex shell pants and 8000m boots?

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

***** full down suits are almost alwys used due to winds and temps

[@GoGoGreenGiant]

I am prepping for my Aconcagua trip in January 2018 and I have a question that no-one seems to talk about: Can I purchase a single pair of high altitude boots that will get me all the way to Denali, Cho Oyu, and Everest? I am looking at the Phantom 8000 or La Sportiva Olympus Mons and wondering if I purchase these, will they be comfortable for Aconcagua or should I purchase the La Sportiva Spantik and then have to purchase the 8000m boots as well?

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

The ones you mention can work on these 3 of these mountains. Aconcagua is a special case. Most people use double plastics or a 6000m boot on Denali (and Aconcagua) along with perhaps with an overboot like 40 Below Purple Haze. An 8000m boot is overkill but can easily be used on Denali. The same 8000m boot can work on both Cho and Everest. I like the Sportiva but if you get the Scarpa, make sure it is the absolute latest version as earlier one were reported to be cold. Aconcagua requires a durable hiking boot, not climbing, but hiking to 14 K since you traverse sharp scree - it is a boot eater. But above 14K, it is cold and windy so you need a solid mountaineering boot like the ones you mention. It is tough to get one boot for all 4 Hills. Good luck and have fun.

[@GoGoGreenGiant]

Thank you for the information. Also, your cause is very inspiring and your site+KZbin are very much appreciated!

[@fakeituntilyoumakeit300]

So, how did it go? You back down, or still up there. And did you reach the summit or how far up did you get? How is the hillary steps now? Is it true they changed after the earthquake? Im a climber my self, but im more of a alpine climber type. I enjoy light and fast. But Nice video.

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

www.alanarnette.com/everest/everest2011.php

[@fakeituntilyoumakeit300]

Thats awsome. I had to check a litle bit. I found out you also been on the summit of K2. Il take of my hat to you Sir. Awsome done. Greetings from Norway.

[@gauravvermamca]

hi i have a silly question on the summit push day how will an individual go for natures call? Do you use adult diapers?

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

bio degradable blue bags are used for solid waste and packed out.

[@gauravvermamca]

Alan Arnette But for that you would still have to do your business and then pack it in them. I am talking about on summit day when you trek for a good 10+ hrs how do you Pee while trekking because as I understand it is so cold that anything would freeze

[@kikomsr]

good day Alan :) can i ask u some advice regarding satellite phone? what brand and model do u think is more reliable in expeditions? iridium, isatphone or thuraya? thank u very much

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

Thuraya in Asia, Iridium in Antarctica and South America. In my experience, Thuraya is more reliable.

[@kikomsr]

Hows iridium at everest? Thanks for the reply

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

Thuraya in Asia, Iridium in Antarctica and South America. In my experience, Thuraya is more reliable.

[@felixfuentes9736]

how much do you carry overall? and how much do the sherpa carry?

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

A lot depends on what company you are climbing with e.g. who gets the permit for you. It can range from a day pack for the most expensive climbs (10 pounds) but if you are mostly unsupported on the least expensive trips you load can be 30 pounds or more.. By Nepal Government regulation, Sherpas are not supposed to carry more that 30 pounds each but this is rarely enforced and the lowest priced operators will ask Sherpas to carry 50 or more. Bottom line is most 'clients' carry no more than 20-25 and Sherpas 30-40.

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

This is the actual vergabe for Sherpas: Weight of the Load: (1) The mountaineering expedition team shall not allow any local worker to carry a load of more than thirty K.G. (2) The Mountaineering expedition team shall not allow to carry a load to a worker climbing high altitude not exceeding the following weight in the following altitude:- (a) For the altitude from 5000 to 6000 meters Twenty K.G (b) For the altitude from 6001 to 7000 meters - Seventeen K.G. (c) For the altitude from 7001 to 8000 meters - Fourteen K.G. (d) For the altitude of more than 8000 meters -Twelve K.G. (3) Notwithstanding anything contained in sub rule (1) and (2), it may be allowed to carry up to extra five kg. Weight upon mutual consent between liaison o www.markhorrell.com/wp-content/uploads/75_en_mountaineering_expedition_regulation.pdf

[@callumclausen8658]

What backpack do you use? Thanks:)

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

Mountain Hardwear South Col

[@callumclausen8658]

Cheers:)

[@haubirk]

Hallo, could yu please name that stuffs that you use ? or just link them with your video, i will appriciate that... wish you best luck

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

www.alanarnette.com/climbing/gearlist.php

[@haubirk]

tnx

[@ralfikos]

my wife would kill me for crampons on the floor :)

[@empoweredbabes]

+ralfikos good girl lol

[@SF-fb6lv]

ralfikos - Ha ha ha ha ha! That is so great!

[@highmountainstrekstours1012]

High Mountain Treks & Tours We deals Expedition, Trekking, Skiing, Culture Tours, Bike Tours,Jeep Safari, Horse Safari ,Air Safari etc. MD Hassan Jan famous Climber of Pakistan. He Summited (K2, Nangaparbat (twice), Broad Peak (Twice), Gashbrem 2 (twice) and Gashbrem 1

[@felixfuentes9736]

plus i guess yaks

[@nlondon70711]

north face

[@moodyplus]

Are you rich? It takes a lot of money to climb!

[@pollypockets508]

He's being sponsored